Date   

Re: AMEL 54 -electronicle Problems with VW Marine TDI

c.zwach@...
 

servus wolfi
danke für deine Ideen
Fehler gefunden: im Steuergerät hat sich die elektronische Wegfahrsperre selbst aktiviert 
geht jetzt wieder
liebe grüße christian
von der Apsara


Re: AMEL 54 -electronicle Problems with VW Marine TDI

c.zwach@...
 

dear Mark
thank you for your ideas. all this we checked already and now we found the reason; the electronicle immobilizer -you have it in the cars- activated himself?? new programming now and it works
thanks 
and all the best christian from
Apsara


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Never considered a brush breaking off and sticking inside.  Good to know its a possibility.  

Ben

Ben and Gayle 
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Apr 7, 2017, at 7:18 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Great to hear it was a simple fix!  Let me post this for relevance in future searches:  I had a "mystery" problem with my mainsail furler motor--I had pushed it a bit hard furling while looking into the sun.  Corrosion X would solve it momentarily even with a new brush inserted (BTW Amel was distributing brushes that were a bit oversized but it is easy to sand them down to a correct size by rubbing them on an abrasive surface--just don't overdo it).  Anyway, ended up that a thin section of the original brush had fractured and remained in the top of the brush insert and I was inserting the new brush into this, causing an intermittent problem.  Even with inspection with a flashlight it looked normal until I rotated the motor and looked up the brush insert space to discover that I could not see the commutator moving.


Bob, KAIMI SM 429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

rossirossix4
 

Great to hear it was a simple fix!  Let me post this for relevance in future searches:  I had a "mystery" problem with my mainsail furler motor--I had pushed it a bit hard furling while looking into the sun.  Corrosion X would solve it momentarily even with a new brush inserted (BTW Amel was distributing brushes that were a bit oversized but it is easy to sand them down to a correct size by rubbing them on an abrasive surface--just don't overdo it).  Anyway, ended up that a thin section of the original brush had fractured and remained in the top of the brush insert and I was inserting the new brush into this, causing an intermittent problem.  Even with inspection with a flashlight it looked normal until I rotated the motor and looked up the brush insert space to discover that I could not see the commutator moving.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Gap behind the sofa

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

At least you didn’t drop in the Water  😊

 

/Annsofie

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: rcavie
Skickat: den 7 april 2017 00:22
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Gap behind the sofa

 

 

Hello Ann-Sofie

I am a newer Amel owner!!

Thank you for your answer. 

First time on board and I dropped my cellphone next to the air conditioning outlet! It was very difficult to pick up!

 

Best regards

Rafael

SM246 in St Martin

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Pulley needed

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

I do not have the exact answer to your question, but maybe I have a piece of the puzzle for you. I am fairly sure that your hull number had an Amel recall on the original alternator. Do you know if you have the original or the replacement?

I think this may be a case to have a conversation with SAV at Amel. sav"at"amel.fr. If I were you I would attach some closeup photos of your alternator.

And, I am surprised that Electec could not help you...my opinion of those guys is good.

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe



On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 4:06 PM, Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear Amelians,
I'm looking for a new pulley for the MasterVolt alternator for my 2005 Volvo D3-110 diesel. Neither the Volvo service company (CAT) here in St. Martin, nor Electec (which is specialized in alternators and electrical stuff) seem to know where/how to get it. Does anyone of you know where I get it? 
Thanks for your contribution,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NOSTRESS, AMEL54 n.15



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Circuit Board

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Hi Bill,
thank you very much for the very useful information.
Alex
NOSTRESS


On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 7:15 PM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
I do not have the direct answer to your question. I think that there are two PCBs. One inside the Climma Compact Control Box and one inside the Thermostat Control. If you know what model Climma Compact you have, you can contact either North America Veco Distributor at info"at"veco-na.com, or Veco in Europe. 

Rob Marine is the Climma Rep in St. Martin...here is the contact information.
7 Wellsburg Road, Cole Bay,St. Maarten
+1 721 554 6333

I hope this helps.

Bill
X-BeBe

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 4:36 PM, Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Dear Amelians,
does anyone know the part number of the Climma circuit board that is used for the A/C in the aft cabin?
Thanks a lot in advance,
Alex Ramseyer
AMEL54 "NOSTRESS"  / St. Martin




Pulley needed

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Dear Amelians,
I'm looking for a new pulley for the MasterVolt alternator for my 2005 Volvo D3-110 diesel. Neither the Volvo service company (CAT) here in St. Martin, nor Electec (which is specialized in alternators and electrical stuff) seem to know where/how to get it. Does anyone of you know where I get it? 
Thanks for your contribution,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NOSTRESS, AMEL54 n.15


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

I haven't been to T1G but aware of it.  I've been to many places like it.  Range layouts have become more effective in their layout in recent years.  Seems that I remember T1G being the Olive Group at one time.  I used to spend time in Memphis at the instructors conference and there is some real talent up there. I'm very familiar with the 300 BO, built a few and have sent many thousand rounds downrange.  Effective in a suppressed mode, likeable here for hog hunters and some operators.  Seals and Delta I know really like the 223 77g tungsten frangible for what they do on soft targets out of the same basic weapon platform.

I'll take another step along on the diode spec, Will be glad to knock that issue out, but no hurry.  Touch base on this when you're aboard again.

S/V Longbow SM2K #418


Re: Gap behind the sofa

rcavie <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Ann-Sofie
I am a newer Amel owner!!
Thank you for your answer. 
First time on board and I dropped my cellphone next to the air conditioning outlet! It was very difficult to pick up!

Best regards
Rafael
SM246 in St Martin


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

Eric Freedman
 

Hi James,

Got your other note. I have the diodes on the boat and should be on board April 18, all I recall at the moment is that they were Motorola.

There should be 2 diodes one connected to the hot wire of the going to the stop solenoid on the injector pump and the other going to the Yanmar start solenoid. If you have one of these cut open the heat shrink tubing over it and read the specs, available on eBay. If they are both missing then wait till I get on board and I will send you the specs.

 

Did you ever hear of T1G? How about the 300 Blackout round?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2017 10:21 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Got it thanks.  The file Bill mentioned is on the isolated ground wiring diagram is missing.  It may be somewhere else.  However, I've isolated the problem.  All save one (generator side) of the mystery wires in the engine compartment have been dealt with and eliminated.The stop solenoid lead has diodes in it that were evidently cut away.  Disconnecting that lead and the entire problem goes away and both generator and engine run happily and the interrupt in the Valeo solenoid (chatter of ground interrupt) stops.  If anyone has the type and specs for the diodes in the stop solenoid lead, it would be much appreciated. 

James Sterling

S/V Longbow SM2K #418


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Goiot Ports Parts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 10:08 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Bob,


You can e-mail us at svperegrinus, which is at yahoo followed by dot followed by com.

Talk to you soon,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350 (2002)
Currently at anchor, Bijela (Montenegro)



Re: Goiot Ports Parts

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello Bob,

You can e-mail us at svperegrinus, which is at yahoo followed by dot followed by com.

Talk to you soon,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350 (2002)
Currently at anchor, Bijela (Montenegro)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Ben,
I just read you found the cause! Glad it was so simple!
Was super nice to meet you , Gayle and Erin!

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 4/6/17, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 6, 2017, 8:01 AM


 









Hi Alex,It turned out to be a
simple fix.  I just needed to reset breaker in port bow
locker. Noise you and Steve heard was from main furler
gearbox which - over the years - had leaked out most of its
grease.  I opened it, cleaned it, and repacked with fresh
grease and noise went away.  
Now I wonder what will
require repair today😎

Ben

Ben and GayleS/V
La Bella VitaSM #347
Sent
from my iPad
On Apr 6,
2017, at 7:28 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Good morning Ben & Gayle,



Sorry to hear about your trouble.

If you remember when Steve and I went on your boat, we both
said something was making lots of noice, much more than on
our boats.

Could be something with the transmission attached to the
motor, I would start there.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 4/5/17, joedoakes66@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Wednesday, April 5, 2017, 6:14 PM





 



















Gentlemen,Yesterday my

main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In
order

to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from
outhaul

hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is
jammed,

motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with
fully

open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order
to

fully unfurl main.

I did

replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn

contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than

imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward
head

which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto

experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has

anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the
culprit?

 

ThanksBen

Ben and GayleLa Bella

VitaSM 347Virgin Gorda


Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

Got it thanks.  The file Bill mentioned is on the isolated ground wiring diagram is missing.  It may be somewhere else.  However, I've isolated the problem.  All save one (generator side) of the mystery wires in the engine compartment have been dealt with and eliminated.The stop solenoid lead has diodes in it that were evidently cut away.  Disconnecting that lead and the entire problem goes away and both generator and engine run happily and the interrupt in the Valeo solenoid (chatter of ground interrupt) stops.  If anyone has the type and specs for the diodes in the stop solenoid lead, it would be much appreciated. 

James Sterling

S/V Longbow SM2K #418


Re: rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Christoph,
    I see Bill R also replied at the same time as I did. If you do not want to do this yourself for about 5000 Euro with original quality from ACMO, there is, indeed, an excellent rigger in Sicily who could do the installation for you. He is Franco Catania (Francesco) and he has an excellent reputation working on many Gran Prix race boats throughout the Med. He fixed our broken stay which kept us going until we got the entire new rig from ACMO. I'd recommend him highly. He's located in the NE corner of Catania Harbor.  
    He could certainly fabricate the rigging himself, if that's what you choose, but it would be far better (and likely much less expensive) to simply have ACMO ship the material to you and have Franco install it.
Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris


Re: rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Christoph,
     Adding to Ian and Bill K's good advice, what year is your Santorin and is the rigging original? Just wondering if it may be a bit more than 20 years. You'll also want to consider what kind of sailing you'll be doing. Day saying in the Med obviously being less risky than an ocean passage, although 20 or more years is beyond my comfort level. What motivated us to replace our rigging was having a mizzen forward lower stay break while sailing off Catania, Sicily. The rig was 18 years old.
     Regarding price, you can compare your 10000 Euro quote from Turkey with 4851 Euros we paid to Acmo for our Santorin rigging, including shipping to Italy, all new turnbuckles etc. I'd guess the Turkey quote included labor and Acmo was material only. Using Acmo has the advantage that they made your original rigging and therefore know the exact specs and provide factory swaged stays that only need to be put up - no field cutting and swaging to get the lengths right. They also supply the "special" short turnbuckle for the headstay, 
     The only change we made from the original specification was to use standard right-hand turnbuckles rather than the left-handed ones Amel originally specified which would have added about 1000 Euros to the cost. Nobody has ever explained why Amel used left-handed turnbuckles.
     Katherine and I did all the work ourselves with the mast up. Took a week doing 2 or 3 stays a day - not difficult and you will know it's done right (or, I suppose, have nobody to blame but yourself :-)
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Twenty year old rigging is old.  I, personally, would not cross an ocean with it--no matter how good it looked.  Here is why.

Stainless steel rigging does not typically fail because of visible corrosion, assuming that good quality 316 or 316L wire was used.  The failure mode is much more insidious because you can not see it happening.  The rigger who looks, no matter how closely, at old rigging and pronounces it "good for another 15 years" does NOT know what he is talking about.

In the language of the metallurgist to "work" a metal is to bend or stretch it.  When you "work" the kinds of stainless steel that are used in rigging the metal hardens.  As it hardens it also gets brittle and weaker. Think about bending a stiff piece of wire back and forth.  It bends, it bends, it bends, it breaks. Nothing visible happens. until the strands of the wire start to break.

Now, a well tuned sailboat rig (i.e., nice tight wires) doesn't "work" its wires a much, but it does work them. "Work" happens every time they stretch a little tiny bit in strong winds, or in the shock load imposed by hitting a big wave.

In addition to work hardening, there is also crevice corrosion to worry about.  It also happens even to the best stainless when chloride is around.  Without a detailed dye test (preferably magnaflux) it can be very hard to see, if it is visible at all.  This happens faster in saltier water (I.e., The Med), and warmer temperatures (i.e., everywhere we like to sail!)

The problem with any recommendation on this subject is that it is an odds game.  The chances of 5 year old rigging that has been in a well tuned rig failing due to work-hardening or crevice corrosion are near zero. The odds of a 30 year old rig being significantly weaker than designed is very high.  

You have to draw the line somewhere.  A conservative number is 15 years, based on the opinions of lots of people whose opinion I trust.  Is it conservative?  For most boats, under most condidtions--yes.  But in the middle of the ocean, I am a very conservative guy.

When I worked for a charter company with boats that were sailed in strong winds a LOT, we changed small boat rigging every five years, and big boat rigging every seven.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, P.R.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Christoph,

So, which rigger was correct? The one that gave you the answer you wanted to hear?

I am not sure that there is a rigger in Sicily that is experienced​ enough to be trusted with an Amel, but there is one in Malta. Let me know if you want that contact. 

20 year old rigging should be replaced and when replaced, it should be replaced with quality stainless steel, it will cost 10,000 euro for a Super Maramu. If it is significantly less, you will likely have another problem. 

Be safe.


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 6, 2017 05:19, "christoph.kasper@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

hi

staying in Turkey ölast year  the guys there told me that the meanwhile twenty year old rigg is broken and should be changed. costs: 10000.- Euro !!!!!!!

now I checked the rigg in Sicily - no damage found, no rost -   the rigger was impressed because of the quality.

He told me to do the following repairs:  nothing!!  :-)


what is your experience - after twenty years- change or not?


thank you all for your ideas...

Christoph






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Hi Alex,
It turned out to be a simple fix.  I just needed to reset breaker in port bow locker. Noise you and Steve heard was from main furler gearbox which - over the years - had leaked out most of its grease.  I opened it, cleaned it, and repacked with fresh grease and noise went away.  

Now I wonder what will require repair today😎

Ben

Ben and Gayle
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Apr 6, 2017, at 7:28 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Ben & Gayle,

Sorry to hear about your trouble.
If you remember when Steve and I went on your boat, we both said something was making lots of noice, much more than on our boats.
Could be something with the transmission attached to the motor, I would start there.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 4/5/17, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, April 5, 2017, 6:14 PM


 









Gentlemen,Yesterday my
main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In order
to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from outhaul
hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is jammed,
motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with fully
open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order to
fully unfurl main.
I did
replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn
contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than
imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward head
which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto
experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has
anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the culprit?
 
ThanksBen
Ben and GayleLa Bella
VitaSM 347Virgin Gorda 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Failed outhaul

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Thanks to all for recommended solutions.  I did not know there was a breaker for outhaul forward on port side; I erroneously thought this was for anchor windlass and jib furler only.  Turns out it was the breaker and an easy fix; that is, after pulling motor cover and replacing brushes.  I had forgotten the law Occam's Razor:  "The simplest explanation for some phenomenon is more likely to be accurate than more complicated explanations."  However, there was some positive in opening motor; I found original brushes were near new with little wear and motor was clean and dry.  All good.  

And Bill R, your point is well taken on using contact cleaner. Although mine was "totally evaporating" type, it could leave a conducting residue.   Maybe better to use Corrosion X.  

Ben Driver
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Apr 6, 2017, at 1:55 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ben,

As per other advice check the breaker in the port side fwd cabin cupboard, that's the most common cause of the outhaul motor not running, especially if you've been driving it hard as you say.
I know of one solenoid failure on an SM and I have a spare just in case.
We had a problem with the outhaul motor not running and it turned out to be a bad solder joint where the cable joins the brush carrier in the motor, Seems someone in the past had "repaired" this motor but not done a good soldering job. I cleaned it all up and silver soldered it and it's been good ever since.
Corrosion X is the best thing to use on your brushes and commutator.
I would never use WD40 for anything on a boat..its a solvent, and while it has initial water displacement properties, when it dries out it becomes hydrophilic (attracts water) which is exactly what you don't want.
You can prove this to yourself by cleaning a steel tool and spraying with WD40. Come back in a few months and it will be rusty.
Good luck solving the problem.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437