Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator Troubles

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

Use your ohm meter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. That temp/sensor/switch is normally CLOSED. As the exhaust elbow temperature rises above the switch tolerance, the switch OPENS. 

Remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the waterflow switch because of failures. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch.

Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change?

The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller be defective:
  1. I have experienced the rubber part of the impeller becoming unattached to the metal hub, resulting in the rubber impeller slipping on the hub, but only after the generator reached operating temperature...this was a Globe brand "Run Dry" impeller...DON'T EVER BUY THOSE
  2. I have experienced the tiny key on the impeller shaft wearing and causing the metal hub of the impeller to spin on the shaft.
  3. I have experienced the blades on an impeller wearing in such a way that they become shorter and cannot push as much water. This usually happens to boaters who only replace impellers when they lose blades, rather than at hour limit. My experience in worn length of impeller blades was also with a Globe brand "Run Dry" impeller...DON'T EVER BUY THOSE. I believe the Onan impeller should be an OEM impeller and changed every 300 hours or 12 months, whichever comes first.
I would bet big odds that you have an impeller problem because one blade was in the opposite direction...I believe that with a good impeller and pump, this should never happen. I believe that you may have one of the above situations going on with the impeller and you should not only replace the impeller, but also, with a high degree of certainty, eliminate the potential problems that I listed above.

HINT: It is always easier to remove the Onan saltwater pump (two bolts) to replace the impeller. Have your wet-vac available and a large shop towel to eliminate any possibility of saltwater getting on anything.

Good luck, and I hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School 
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator Troubles

luvkante
 

Faulty sensor?

Martin
Amel 54 #149
CHIARA

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 23.04.2017 um 17:01 schrieb sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

The generator has my attention...again.


This morning it shut down with a "3" fault code, which the manual said requires service by trained personell.  I then read there is a second level code accessed by pressing the STOP once.  I got the "58" fault code, "High Exhaust Temperature".

I checked:
-Impeller: it's all there, no apparent damage.  Although strangely one of the vanes was bent the wrong way at the "pump side".
-Coolant or raw water leaks: none apparent.
-Coolant level: unchanged in the surge tank.
-Temperature of the water in the muffler: it was surprisingly at room temperature???
-Seachest for blockage: it was clear.
-Exhaust elbow: not particularly hot (water didn't sizzle).

I tried to let it cool down and restart it so that I could get a temperature on the exhaust elbow.  It would start, but would not run for more than a few seconds, and then flashed the same fault code.

About eight months ago I had a "High Engine Temperature" and found that the exhaust elbow waterjacket had a hole in it, and the heat exchanger would not hold pressure.  I replaced them both and haven't had a problem with high temp's again until now.

I did check that water was being ejected in the exhaust immediately after starting and it was normal.  I'm perplexed, what could be the problem?

Could this be a result of the freshwater leak into the generator from the watermaker flush valve?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator Troubles

Duane Siegfri
 

Wow!  Steve!  You were exactly right.  One of the wires on the temperature sensor was disconnected...the screw had fallen out.  I'm amazed I didn't notice that when I was looking at the exhaust elbow and trying to determine whether it was hot.

As I write this the genny is humming along, happy as a clam, pouring amps into the batteries and making water.

Are you going to be in Brunswick this summer?  We're headed there in early July for hurricane season.  Be nice to meet and buy you a beer or two!

Thank you for the help!
Duane
Outside No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator Troubles

Stephen MORRISON <steve_morrison@...>
 

Duane. I had these very same codes and my generator often shut down within the first two minutes of running. I had Cummings come out and look it over and it turned out to be the exhaust sensor. A little fumbling with the wires and it has run smooth ever since. I did order a spare sensor to have on hand but the Cummings service guy said I could also just connect the wires directly and bypass the sensor as a fix if needed as in his opinion, so long as water was running through, which has its own sensor, the exhaust cannot get hot enough to be a problem.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380
Brunswick




On Apr 23, 2017, at 11:01 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The generator has my attention...again.


This morning it shut down with a "3" fault code, which the manual said requires service by trained personell.  I then read there is a second level code accessed by pressing the STOP once.  I got the "58" fault code, "High Exhaust Temperature".

I checked:
-Impeller: it's all there, no apparent damage.  Although strangely one of the vanes was bent the wrong way at the "pump side".
-Coolant or raw water leaks: none apparent.
-Coolant level: unchanged in the surge tank.
-Temperature of the water in the muffler: it was surprisingly at room temperature???
-Seachest for blockage: it was clear.
-Exhaust elbow: not particularly hot (water didn't sizzle).

I tried to let it cool down and restart it so that I could get a temperature on the exhaust elbow.  It would start, but would not run for more than a few seconds, and then flashed the same fault code.

About eight months ago I had a "High Engine Temperature" and found that the exhaust elbow waterjacket had a hole in it, and the heat exchanger would not hold pressure.  I replaced them both and haven't had a problem with high temp's again until now.

I did check that water was being ejected in the exhaust immediately after starting and it was normal.  I'm perplexed, what could be the problem?

Could this be a result of the freshwater leak into the generator from the watermaker flush valve?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Onan Generator Troubles

Duane Siegfri
 

The generator has my attention...again.

This morning it shut down with a "3" fault code, which the manual said requires service by trained personell.  I then read there is a second level code accessed by pressing the STOP once.  I got the "58" fault code, "High Exhaust Temperature".

I checked:
-Impeller: it's all there, no apparent damage.  Although strangely one of the vanes was bent the wrong way at the "pump side".
-Coolant or raw water leaks: none apparent.
-Coolant level: unchanged in the surge tank.
-Temperature of the water in the muffler: it was surprisingly at room temperature???
-Seachest for blockage: it was clear.
-Exhaust elbow: not particularly hot (water didn't sizzle).

I tried to let it cool down and restart it so that I could get a temperature on the exhaust elbow.  It would start, but would not run for more than a few seconds, and then flashed the same fault code.

About eight months ago I had a "High Engine Temperature" and found that the exhaust elbow waterjacket had a hole in it, and the heat exchanger would not hold pressure.  I replaced them both and haven't had a problem with high temp's again until now.

I did check that water was being ejected in the exhaust immediately after starting and it was normal.  I'm perplexed, what could be the problem?

Could this be a result of the freshwater leak into the generator from the watermaker flush valve?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: HELP HELP NEEDED REMOVING VETUS COUPLING

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Eric, 
I've done two of these, mine and another SN, that were absolutely frozen like yours. 
In both cases all the usual steps failed, from soaking for days in lubricant, heat, cold and hammering. Even broke a custom wheel puller fabricated from plate steel. 
Finally got them off using a hand sledge hammer and a cold chisel in the (very) small space between the sleeve and the steel ring on the "C" drive shaft. After an hour or so, maybe two, when I was about to give up, it finally moved just a fraction. Just kept at it and it never really moved more easily, just a fraction at a time. As the gap got wider I switched chisels and added spacers as needed. Damn thing fought me all the way.
When you get it off you might want to remove the ring, which covers the upper lip seal, and replace the seal. 
Before reassembling, I did take a thousandth or so off the shaft with sandpaper and greased it. Can now take the coupling off by hand.
Good luck with it.
 Craig  SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

I have a 4

JH3HTE Yanmar on Kimberlite. I lifted the engine to change the engine mounts and cut the bolts holding the Vetus coupling together with the "C" drive and transmission.

Everything came apart easily. Unfortunately the

Amel modified  Vetus sleeve that has the keyway cut into it and the 4 rubber donuts will not come off the shaft of the "C" drive.

I have tried everything I can think of and the sleeve will not move. The engine is ready for a new coupling and mounts as soon as I can get this sleeve off. ANY IDEAS?

 

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] HELP HELP NEEDED REMOVING VETUS COUPLING

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Eric

Might not be of great help but i read about changing the silent blocks and realigning the engine here:


It's unfortunately in french but there are pictures and maybe Google translate can extract a few tips. 

I'm not experienced enough to translate the technical details but Nicolas says the Amel yard was of great help. 


Good luck


Thomas
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Cap d'Agde, France


On Sat, 22 Apr 2017 at 22:56, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have a 4

JH3HTE Yanmar on Kimberlite. I lifted the engine to change the engine mounts and cut the bolts holding the Vetus coupling together with the "C" drive and transmission.

Everything came apart easily. Unfortunately the

Amel modified  Vetus sleeve that has the keyway cut into it and the 4 rubber donuts will not come off the shaft of the "C" drive.

I have tried everything I can think of and the sleeve will not move. The engine is ready for a new coupling and mounts as soon as I can get this sleeve off. ANY IDEAS?

 

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite

Re: Deck restoration question

j.lochhead@...
 

Hi Denis.  I am in Malaysia at the moment doing a refit on our 1984 Maramu.

If you send me an email I can let you know our experience.

Contact me on j_lochhead@hotmail. 

Re: Increasing fuel capacity - Maramu #178

Dan
 

The mango included a generator as an option in the build sheet back in ancient 1981. And also saw Amel meltem with generator. They were probably Hugh.

Re: Hauling out Hurricane season in Cairns

jjjk12s@...
 

Sounds like that's for the best. The lift is 40 tonnes with a maximum width of 4.6m so probably only just too small. Norship which has the bigger lifts up to 400 ton is quite a lot more expensive. I think you would get better rates further south with more competition from boat yards and more focus on recreational boats.

 

The yards here are well equipped to deal with the small chance of a cyclone but the possible deterioration due to high humidity, heat and heavy rain I think is an issue if your boat is unattended through the wet season so worth the detour south. The 900 mile sail from Brisbane to Cairns is easy between May and September with a very high likelyhood of 20 to 25 knots south easterlies.

 

Regards

John, Maramu #91 Popeye

 


 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kimberlite is in Smpson Bay Marina Slip c12

eric freedman
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kimberlite is in Smpson Bay Marina Slip c12

John Clark
 

Am at Lagoonies now and see we can reserve tables.  Should we?

On Apr 21, 2017 1:42 PM, "Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I will plan 17:00 Tuesday at Lagoonies. Alex from Nikimat is on my dock as well, and will see if I can get him to come along. Hope you can make it as well Eric. 

Steve
Aloha SM72
St Maarten

On Apr 20, 2017, at 18:16, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Please drop By.
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From: "jacob.champness@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 8:14 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: New owners of an old Maramu
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

> Thanks, John!
>
> That sounds great. We'd love to get together. Maybe hook up at
> Lagoonies?
> All the best!
>

HELP HELP NEEDED REMOVING VETUS COUPLING

eric freedman
 

Re: Registration

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Rafael,

Check with

Steven H. Hibbe, Maritime Attorney

Gables Waterway Center

1390 S. Dixie Hwy.

Suite 1104

Coral Gables, FL 33146

 

Tel:  (305) 375-0966



Any other q's, e-mail svperegrinus at the company that hosts this site dot com.


Cheerio,


Peregrinus

SM2K Nr. 350 (2002)

At anchor, Corfù, Greece

Re: Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

Jim Anderson
 

In case my original post was unclear:
If you want to buy a plastic cap fro your Autoprop you can get it here:

King Propulsion, Virgina Beach, Virginia, USA tel. +1 757 962 9219
kingpropulsion dot com
roderick.sampson"at"kingpropulsion"dot"com
About $36.00 US plus shipping for the H-6 Autoprop plastic cap with fasteners

By way of further information, both King Propulsion in Virginia, USA and AB Marine in Rhode Island, USA are authorized Brunton's distributors. When I called AB Marine I was told the plastic cap was unavailable and the zinc cap was about $40.00 US plus shipping. When I called King Propulsion I was told that they would get me the plastic cap right away and ship it in a few days, and that if I wanted a zinc cap I should just order it from boatzincs"dot"com for under $20.00US because if I they sold it to me they would have to charge me about double that amount.

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle

Re: Increasing fuel capacity - Maramu #178

scentstone
 

Hi Bill,
I previously owned a Mango for 15 years with the optional tank (overall capacity was 1000l) and I often used the 2nd tank capacity. 
When I went for Atlantic and Pacific crossing with my SM, I was of course very skeptical about the 600 l of her tank and like you I've placed on the deck 6 Jerrycans (which I didn't use during the passages (but gave me a great peace of mind ;-)
The absolute difference between a Maramu/Mango and a SM is that with the ancient designs you have to use a lot more the engine in light winds which is often the condition for passages. FMHO you're both right, additional Diesel is a necessity for passages with Maramu/Mango designs and can be avoided with SM

[Note] Additionaly, the SM has got a generator when you have to run the Perkins for energy with the Maramu/Mango and it also make a difference in consumption.

I hope it helps
F.
S/V ScentStone SM2K #375
 

Re: Hauling out Hurricane season in Cairns

scentstone
 

A great thank you to all of you David Colin and John (+Bill again).
An update from Cairns Yacht Squadron : they declined my application because the Super Maramu is too large for their lift.
On the other hand, I've got an extensive information from Bundaberg Port Marina which appears to be very well organized for hauling out and store securely the boat. Colin's information are also really helpful. I'll finish to evaluate the alternatives including Scarborough and New Zealand which wasn't part of my first plan and let you know.

Thank you
F.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Deck restoration question

Massimo Vecchietti
 

For Stripes a little work  with....

Il 22 Apr 2017 1:15 AM, "jjjk12s@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:
 

The thick gel-coat on the faux teak has a hard life with the combination of UV and temperature cycling. It's great non slip but it's too much to expect it to last forever. If the deck is very old then the likely option is to reluctantly sand down the teak texture. You then need to replace with a different non-skid texture. Any smooth bit of deck would be very dangerous when wet. The look will be different to original but safety comes first. The normal painted no-slip method would be using matt finish 2 pack poly paint and sprinkle evenly with fine glass beads whilst wet, then give a second coat once that has dried to cover the beads. Different size beads are available depending upon what look you want and whether the use is for shoe wearers or bare feet.

 

If you really want to keep the stripes this could be done but a lot of work. Basically it would be as Bill describes but with the use of glass beads on the boards.

 

A different method I've used before is to paint a deck with a generous coat of 2 pack paint then when wet sprinkle with sugar. Allow to dry then rinse off the sugar which will leave a texture in the paint with no extra ingredient. Non slip paints that have the non-slip ingredient mixed in are, in my experience, hard to get to look even.

 

If you have just a small area of cracked or damaged faux teak, another method is to use a good part of deck to make a texture-mould out of latex then use this on the repair to recreate the original non-slip pattern. This is effective on other pattern non-slip deck gelcoat too. Colour matching is very difficult though.

 

John, Popeye, Maramu #91

 


 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway door

eric freedman
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hauling out Hurricane season in Cairns

David Pawley
 

Further to John comment above, he referred to Yacht Squadron, ie Cairns Cruising Yacht Squadron (CCYS), I don't have a Amel much to my regret, but I was on the hardstand for 2 weeks last July. The services in the area are good and in walking distance, the facilities are basic. My Fore stay had to be removed due to travel lift limitations. Most people I saw did there own work. I was much pleased with suppliers and services.

On 19 April 2017 at 22:58, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Fred,

I did look at the facilities in Mackay and they seemed OK to me. There seemed to be plenty of support subcontractors at the yard. I did not look at the facilities in Cairns.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School 
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 3:35 AM, scentstone@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill for your support fast answer. 

My plan is the fastest transit to Darwin and Indian ocean, that's the reason why I would like to haul her out in Cairns. 
Did you check or evaluate the shipyards with on shore storage (Cairns or Mackay) ? or do you advise me against hauling out there ?

Thanks a lot and kind regards.

Fred

S/V Scentstone SM2K #375