SM#331 has the Yanmar 85 HP engine with a ZF Hurth model HSW 250H – 2.8
transmission. The latter has had a small leak of ATF fluid from the
output drive shaft seal. I had a VERY expensive repair made a year ago
with a 45 mm "speedy sleeve". It made no difference whatsoever. The
leak is noticeable under the transmission but I have never had to top
up the fluid between routine servicing. It has been suggested that the
reason that it leaks is that there is no "breather" on the
transmission. It was further suggested that any device that needs a
cooler, should have a breather as no seal is going to withstand the
pressure build up. Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone added a
simple breather?
Ed
DoodleBug

My wife wants to expand the master cabin bed in our SM#331 by the
addition of a small section of platform and a mattress section. This
would block off the vanity of course BUT – has anyone done this? If so,
how did it work? How was it made?
Ed
DoodleBug

We have a Eumenia mini 5500 dishwasher on SM#331. It went out of
service in Australia last year and we have been forced to make long
passages without a functional dishwasher. (Just throw the dirty ones
over the side!) Australia had never heard of Eumenia but I was sure
that I could get the unit either repaired or replaced in Europe. We are
now lying at Marmaris, Turkey (OK, not part of the EU yet). I have
Googled for Eumenia and the only hit I got was a dealer in New Zealand.
The user's guide states that it is made in Austria. Does anyone know
how to find a dealer / repair center / replacement?
Ed
DoodleBug

Hi Eric on "Kimberlite",

You asked me a while back about my main preventers. I've posted some photos on my photo folder "Moon Dog". I don't use the Amel-provided vang with jam cleat, I use two vangs without the built-in jam cleat and use a rope clutch to secure them each in the cockpit. I just attach one end of the vang to the eye under the middle of the boom and then the other end to the cleat on the salon roof top (the one usually used for the pole foreguy). The lines to tighten or loosen the vangs run through a hole in the front of the hard dodger, through a rope clutch inside the dodger on the dashboard. I have one on each side and now I never have to leave the cockpit to trim a preventer. I've also got two pad-eyes in the deck, through bolted, mounted in the wiring access compartments in forward head and the forward hanging locker. This lead isn't as good as the roof top cleats but they've worked well to prevent a gybe in pretty bad conditions. So either place works to secure them.

I've also posted photos of the very simple system I use to hold the companionway door up. It is a flat brass sliding bar that just slides onto a small L bracket. It only takes a second to put in place. I used to have a barrel bolt there but it was always a hassle to line up the bolt with the hole, so this is much easier.

All's well with us, we are moving slowly south with the springtime and warming weather. We are in Caldera now, a small town of 12,000 people, the local people are very friendly...we were out til 2 last night at the "Hermandad de la Costa" Friday night men's club, abalone for dinner followed by lots of red wine and singing of Chilean folk songs !

Best regards,
John Martin
SM 248 "Moon Dog"
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

Hi Gary,
thanks a lot for your support. Photos are excellent !
About em it may be a spam problem with the mail server.I'm not a pc
expert, so...
Any way , thanks to the Group, we are ok.
For now all the best and buon vento.
Ciao Gianni
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Gianni:

I have posted in the photos section, under the folder for the

impeller tool 3 photos

related to the fabrication of the impeller removal tool so that you

can make your

own where you are.

I hope this helps. Still not sure why your email can't talk to

mine.

Regards,

Gary

Instructions:

If you have access to self locking pliers of the sort depicted all

you

need is 2 pieces of stainless steel about 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by

1.5 inches

long. I cut a series of grooves in the stainless to act as

serrations. I cut

the ViceGrips tips off and TIG weld the stainless to the pliers

ends.

Gianni:

I have posted in the photos section, under the folder for the impeller tool 3 photos
related to the fabrication of the impeller removal tool so that you can make your
own where you are.

I hope this helps. Still not sure why your email can't talk to mine.

Regards,

Gary

Instructions:

If you have access to self locking pliers of the sort depicted all you
need is 2 pieces of stainless steel about 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1.5 inches
long. I cut a series of grooves in the stainless to act as serrations. I cut
the ViceGrips tips off and TIG weld the stainless to the pliers ends.

Hi Eric

We are back in New Zealand. E-mail me. Wanderer@uuplus.com

Vito

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Vito,

How are you and where are you?

Fair Winds,

Eric





Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Transmission



Hi MIke

How are you.

Dont worry too much about the milk shake in your U drive. I had

that

happen in my first Amel. Just replace the seals and all will be

well.

Make sure that once you drain the oil that you put some deisel

trough

to get rid of any bad mixture. Amel tells a story that they had a
boat cross the Atlantic with the same situation. The U drive is

verry

strong.

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter
<robincooter@> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the vibration messed up

the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are easy enough to
obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if you can't wait

for

AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best quality. Do note the
way round the seals are when you take the old ones off! I go with
Richard - don't run it very much with water in the oil. The sooner
you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also think about
all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got water
in the gear box the chances are that the case has been
cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally fail
from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte engine
and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when you
check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far with
oil and water as at some point it will fail big time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone experienced
the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water leaking
into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop hit a
heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear. The
boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in December,
and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other causes.
Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced one
year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos. <http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html>

yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews,

get

listings, and more!

http://tv.yahoo. <http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658>

com/collections/3658

---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good

this month.

Vito,

How are you and where are you?

Fair Winds,

Eric





Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Transmission



Hi MIke

How are you.

Dont worry too much about the milk shake in your U drive. I had that
happen in my first Amel. Just replace the seals and all will be well.
Make sure that once you drain the oil that you put some deisel trough
to get rid of any bad mixture. Amel tells a story that they had a
boat cross the Atlantic with the same situation. The U drive is verry
strong.

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter
<robincooter@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the vibration messed up

the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are easy enough to
obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if you can't wait for
AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best quality. Do note the
way round the seals are when you take the old ones off! I go with
Richard - don't run it very much with water in the oil. The sooner
you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also think about
all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got water
in the gear box the chances are that the case has been
cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally fail
from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte engine
and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when you
check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far with
oil and water as at some point it will fail big time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone experienced
the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water leaking
into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop hit a
heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear. The
boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in December,
and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other causes.
Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced one
year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos. <http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html> yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get

listings, and more!

http://tv.yahoo. <http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658>

com/collections/3658

---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good

this month.

Mike

I too had the alarming milkshake. 30 hours of engine use and 28 days later
I replaced the seals and all has been well since.

Most recently, one seal started leaking oil out but the water seal held
until replacement.

Regards

Regards





Rob Brennan

Nebo SM251



Robert Brennan & Associates

GPO Box 533

Canberra

ACT 2601



Telephone/Fax: 61 2 6295 9608







From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of michael grunstein
Sent: Thursday, 4 October 2007 9:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Transmission



Thanks, Vito,

I'll welcome this calming note and I actually look
forward to do it. Robin Cotter suggested the same.
Richard Piller gave the worst case scenario. I'll find
out in December and let you know. I hope all is well
on Wanderer.

Michael Grunstein sm2000 #345

--- asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> >
wrote:

Hi MIke

How are you.

Dont worry too much about the milk shake in your U
drive. I had that
happen in my first Amel. Just replace the seals and
all will be well.
Make sure that once you drain the oil that you put
some deisel trough
to get rid of any bad mixture. Amel tells a story
that they had a
boat cross the Atlantic with the same situation. The
U drive is verry
strong.

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Robin Cooter

<robincooter@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the

vibration messed up
the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are
easy enough to
obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if
you can't wait for
AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best
quality. Do note the
way round the seals are when you take the old ones
off! I go with
Richard - don't run it very much with water in the
oil. The sooner
you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also

think about

all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got

water

in the gear box the chances are that the case has

been

cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally

fail

from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte

engine

and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when

you

check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far

with

oil and water as at some point it will fail big

time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone

experienced

the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water

leaking

into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop

hit a

heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear.

The

boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in

December,

and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other

causes.

Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced

one

year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________

Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV.

Watch previews, get
listings, and more!

http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658





---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit

Yahoo! For Good
this month.

[Non-text portions of this message have been

removed]

__________________________________________________________
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows
on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/

Thanks, Vito,

I'll welcome this calming note and I actually look
forward to do it. Robin Cotter suggested the same.
Richard Piller gave the worst case scenario. I'll find
out in December and let you know. I hope all is well
on Wanderer.

Michael Grunstein sm2000 #345




--- asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi MIke

How are you.

Dont worry too much about the milk shake in your U
drive. I had that
happen in my first Amel. Just replace the seals and
all will be well.
Make sure that once you drain the oil that you put
some deisel trough
to get rid of any bad mixture. Amel tells a story
that they had a
boat cross the Atlantic with the same situation. The
U drive is verry
strong.

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter

<robincooter@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the

vibration messed up
the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are
easy enough to
obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if
you can't wait for
AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best
quality. Do note the
way round the seals are when you take the old ones
off! I go with
Richard - don't run it very much with water in the
oil. The sooner
you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also

think about

all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got

water

in the gear box the chances are that the case has

been

cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally

fail

from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte

engine

and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when

you

check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far

with

oil and water as at some point it will fail big

time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone

experienced

the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water

leaking

into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop

hit a

heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear.

The

boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in

December,

and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other

causes.

Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced

one

year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________

Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV.

Watch previews, get
listings, and more!

http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658





---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit

Yahoo! For Good
this month.

[Non-text portions of this message have been

removed]

____________________________________________________________________________________
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/

Hi MIke

How are you.

Dont worry too much about the milk shake in your U drive. I had that
happen in my first Amel. Just replace the seals and all will be well.
Make sure that once you drain the oil that you put some deisel trough
to get rid of any bad mixture. Amel tells a story that they had a
boat cross the Atlantic with the same situation. The U drive is verry
strong.

Vito Ciaravino
ASM#283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter
<robincooter@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the vibration messed up

the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are easy enough to
obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if you can't wait for
AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best quality. Do note the
way round the seals are when you take the old ones off! I go with
Richard - don't run it very much with water in the oil. The sooner
you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also think about
all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got water
in the gear box the chances are that the case has been
cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally fail
from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte engine
and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when you
check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far with
oil and water as at some point it will fail big time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone experienced
the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water leaking
into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop hit a
heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear. The
boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in December,
and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other causes.
Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced one
year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get

listings, and more!

http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658





---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good

this month.

Hi Eric:

I'm sorry, the capacitors that failed on my three Climma AC units were
in the electronic control box attached or near each unit. They are
the start capacitors for the compressor motors not for the water
pump. Each control box contains 4 capacitors, as I recall. One large
one and three smaller ones, all of the electrolytic (can) type. The failed
one, in each instance, was the largest of the four and had only
two leads. A capacitor with three leads? I am not sure what that
would be, perhaps an extra grounding wire???

Gary

Hi Mike,

I had a plastic bag around my prop and the vibration messed up the seals enough to let sea water in. Seals are easy enough to obtain from any reasonable engineering supplier if you can't wait for AMEL to send them to you, but go for the best quality. Do note the way round the seals are when you take the old ones off! I go with Richard - don't run it very much with water in the oil. The sooner you check and replace the better.

Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004 Belouga

Richard Piller <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi Mike. I would suggest that you also think about
all new bearings along with your seals. Salt water
has done them NO GOOD....

I would also take a very close look at the
transmission case. If you hit that hard and got water
in the gear box the chances are that the case has been
cracked or is at least damaged... Seals normally fail
from wear not a prop hit.

In any case when you are having the transmission
servcied I'd also check the alignment with hte engine
and the prop drive to be sure they are aligned
properly. (less then .005" out of alignment when you
check with a dial indicator)

And second I would not let run the boat to far with
oil and water as at some point it will fail big time.

Good luck and fair winds...
Richard SM 209

--- michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Hello Group,
Here is a question for you. has anyone experienced
the
oil in the transmission (15W40) appearing like
milkshake? most probably caused by sea water leaking
into it. While motoring near Langkawi the prop hit a
heavy log. Prior to it, the oil looked clear. The
boat
will be hauled out in Rebak, Langkawi in December,
and
new seals on the shaft will be installed. I will
also
try to check the shaft for possible bending.
Can you comment on this or point to other causes.
Also, the seals and brass sleeve were replaced one
year earlier.

Thank you all, Michael Grunstein SM2000 #345

__________________________________________________________

Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a
reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html

__________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658





---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

Gary,

My calpeda pump had one capacitor in it with I believe 3 leads. that
confused me so I got the capacitor from calpeda here in the usa.

Could you look next time you are down and see how you wired the two
capacitors?

Thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air Conditioning Water Pump



Hi Eric:

As I recall it was the largest of the 4 capacitors that wnet up in smoke
on each unit. The fact that all three did it suggest to me that they
were either from a faulty production lot or undersized.

The originals were 470 volt, 40 microferrad, plastic encased capacitors.
As I recall I replaced them with 600 volt 40 microfarrad capacitors and
they were metal encased. Un-fortunately they are larger in size and do
not fit in the the climma enclosure and had to be strapped to the outside
of that enclosure. I got my capacitors from a local motor overhaul shop
that had a large stock of motor start capacitors.

Hope that helps.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

do you have the specifications or make and model number of the capacitors?

I had the same problem and would like to have a spare other than from
calpeda.

thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Hi Eric:

As I recall it was the largest of the 4 capacitors that wnet up in smoke
on each unit. The fact that all three did it suggest to me that they
were either from a faulty production lot or undersized.

The originals were 470 volt, 40 microferrad, plastic encased capacitors.
As I recall I replaced them with 600 volt 40 microfarrad capacitors and
they were metal encased. Un-fortunately they are larger in size and do
not fit in the the climma enclosure and had to be strapped to the outside
of that enclosure. I got my capacitors from a local motor overhaul shop
that had a large stock of motor start capacitors.

Hope that helps.

Gary

Hi,

do you have the specifications or make and model number of the capacitors?

I had the same problem and would like to have a spare other than from
calpeda.

thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:46 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air Conditioning Water Pump



Hi Dave:

Regarding:

"What is the expected life of the Clima AC components, if they
are used regularly in the tropics."

My boat was delivered July 1, 2001 and the ACs are all going
strong. We use them a lot and are located in the Caribbean.
The compressor start capacitors all melted at the three year
mark. This produced smoke in the boat causing us to think
we were on fire. Interestingly enough all three units had the
same failure within a couple of months of each other. I
went to metal can, higher voltage rated capacitors and have
had no further problem.

I have resealed the AC sea water pump once but just on
general prinicpals not due to any failure.

Regarding:

" Finally, I understand from reading other messages that some
have put a 4th AC unit in the galley area. Exactly where was
this unit placed. "

I have posted in the photos section some pictures of my
4th AC install. The saloon and especially the galley when cooking
were always too hot when in the tropics. The photos aren't very
good but they will give you a general idea. Getting the Climma
10,000 BTU unit was a bit of trick (freight of about US$ 800 to
Antigua) but my wife says this is the best thing we have done to
the boat and well worth it. If you deisre I can give you some
contact info related to Climma.

I glassed in a shelf in the bilge under the sink and
mounted the unit on it. It just barely fits. I had to raise the shelf
below the sink about 1/2 inch to gain clearance. I purchased a
high tech sealless inductively coupled water cooled pump for the
sea water rather than relying on the series plumbed Amel sea
water system. The waste water is plumbed in to the water maker
overboard thru hull. The 220 VAC panel breaker for the
"Compressor" was used for the power. Under the sill of the sink
cupboards is a fresh air cut out that allows air into the evaporator.
The sea water pump is in the engine compartment and receives
sea water from the former anchor wash down pump manifold. (
had previously done away with the sea water wash down system
thus freeing up a sea water manifold spot. I installed a new anchor
washdown pum that uses fresh water and put a hose bib with a
valve in the bow port locker so that I can wash down the whole
boat with fresh water (but that is another story). The sea water
in and out hoses penetrate the engine room bulkhead using some
compression fittings to maintain the water tight integrity.

Next I plumbed the output AC air to a "Y" fitting with a damper.
I ran one half of the air (using insulated 4 inch flexible ducting
beneath the dish washer and up to the galley area as depicted
in the photo section. The other half I routed behind and beneath
the refrigerator and companionway steps to be directed into the
starboard side guarterberth. By adjusting the damper you can
control the amount of AC air to each site.

The galley and saloon are always cool and comfortable, even
when cooking. The quaterbert usually gets too cold and the AC
never runs more than at about 1/2 capacity to achieve very
satisfactory cooling. From this I would guess that a 16 k BTU
unit would probably adequately cool the saloon but it is still a
matter of getting the air to the galley and quaterberth as you noted.

Total cost of materials etc about $4,400, Labor was about
25-30 man hours (myself and my wife Mary).

Again, this was an addition I would do again in a heartbeat, it
has added immeasurably to the enjoyment of the boat.

Regards.

Gary

Hi Dave:

Regarding:

"What is the expected life of the Clima AC components, if they
are used regularly in the tropics."

My boat was delivered July 1, 2001 and the ACs are all going
strong. We use them a lot and are located in the Caribbean.
The compressor start capacitors all melted at the three year
mark. This produced smoke in the boat causing us to think
we were on fire. Interestingly enough all three units had the
same failure within a couple of months of each other. I
went to metal can, higher voltage rated capacitors and have
had no further problem.

I have resealed the AC sea water pump once but just on
general prinicpals not due to any failure.

Regarding:

" Finally, I understand from reading other messages that some
have put a 4th AC unit in the galley area. Exactly where was
this unit placed. "

I have posted in the photos section some pictures of my
4th AC install. The saloon and especially the galley when cooking
were always too hot when in the tropics. The photos aren't very
good but they will give you a general idea. Getting the Climma
10,000 BTU unit was a bit of trick (freight of about US$ 800 to
Antigua) but my wife says this is the best thing we have done to
the boat and well worth it. If you deisre I can give you some
contact info related to Climma.

I glassed in a shelf in the bilge under the sink and
mounted the unit on it. It just barely fits. I had to raise the shelf
below the sink about 1/2 inch to gain clearance. I purchased a
high tech sealless inductively coupled water cooled pump for the
sea water rather than relying on the series plumbed Amel sea
water system. The waste water is plumbed in to the water maker
overboard thru hull. The 220 VAC panel breaker for the
"Compressor" was used for the power. Under the sill of the sink
cupboards is a fresh air cut out that allows air into the evaporator.
The sea water pump is in the engine compartment and receives
sea water from the former anchor wash down pump manifold. (
had previously done away with the sea water wash down system
thus freeing up a sea water manifold spot. I installed a new anchor
washdown pum that uses fresh water and put a hose bib with a
valve in the bow port locker so that I can wash down the whole
boat with fresh water (but that is another story). The sea water
in and out hoses penetrate the engine room bulkhead using some
compression fittings to maintain the water tight integrity.

Next I plumbed the output AC air to a "Y" fitting with a damper.
I ran one half of the air (using insulated 4 inch flexible ducting
beneath the dish washer and up to the galley area as depicted
in the photo section. The other half I routed behind and beneath
the refrigerator and companionway steps to be directed into the
starboard side guarterberth. By adjusting the damper you can
control the amount of AC air to each site.

The galley and saloon are always cool and comfortable, even
when cooking. The quaterbert usually gets too cold and the AC
never runs more than at about 1/2 capacity to achieve very
satisfactory cooling. From this I would guess that a 16 k BTU
unit would probably adequately cool the saloon but it is still a
matter of getting the air to the galley and quaterberth as you noted.

Total cost of materials etc about $4,400, Labor was about
25-30 man hours (myself and my wife Mary).

Again, this was an addition I would do again in a heartbeat, it
has added immeasurably to the enjoyment of the boat.

Regards.

Gary

Hi Gianni:

I am not sure why I can't get your emails. I configured my email to accept your
specific email address. I too have never had that happen before.

I made 10 more tools tonight and will post some more photos in the impeller
folder of the photos section showing the process. It is very simple. If you have
access to self locking pliers of the sort depicted all you need is 2 pieces of stainless
steel about 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1.5 inches long. I cut a series of grooves
in the stainless to act as serrations. I cut the ViceGrips tips off and TIG weld
the stainless to the pliers ends. That is all there is to it. It takes me about 20
minutes per tool. The biggest part is rounding up the materials. The Vice
Grip metal is tempered steel so I have to use a die grinder to cut off the tips.

Look for those photos and best of luck.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Giovanni Testa" <gtesta23@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,
sorry I receive all your em , but I receive back my answer to you, also the last one with

TEST COMPLETE

I have never had such a problem !?!?
Gianni


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I replaced the impeller assembly on the ac pump. it was a simple job. that
is what usually needs replacement as ling as the motor is turning.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Air Conditioning Water Pump



On SM #230, 1998,I recently had the air-conditioning system checked
out, and there were concerns about the ac water pump leaking. Has
anyone either rebuilt or replaced the AC water pump. What is the
expected life of the Clima AC components, if they are used regularly
in the tropics. Finally, I understand from reading other messages
that some have put a 4th AC unit in the galley area. Exactly where
was this unit placed. I also understand that some have replaced the
saloon AC unit with a 16,000 btu unit. Did this larger unit
effectively cool the galley area also (assuming a second duct was also
installed with this unit.
Dave

Hi Gary,
sorry I receive all your em , but I receive back my answer to you, also the last one with TEST COMPLETE
I have never had such a problem !?!?
Gianni