Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

The first time I saw anything like that was this week on a Super Maramu with a hull number in the 50s. One of my Amel School clients was considering this SM and I was reviewing photos that he took including IMG_0589.JPG, attached. Another photo of this SM appeared that the "rigger" replaced the standing rigging with undersized wire and undersized turnbuckles. I suspect that the "rigger" popped the rivets to install new rigging wire inside that foil.

Your Amel originally had rivets and I bet you lost them when it was re-rigged. The later model SMs had stainless steel allen head bolts, like BeBe. See the attached BeBe #387 Furler.JPG...this was after I had it repainted in Trinidad.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie Street
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

Mark Erdos
 

Steve,

 

Thanks you. I suspected it there should be rivets. I have eight holes (four on each side). The holes are in the drum and the foil. They look like they align. There is nothing in these holes other than silicone. I can lift the foil up above the drum and there is no evidence of any connector ever being there. This has been the way since we purchased the boat and only now are we having issues to warrant a close inspection of the set up.

 

Does anyone know the size of the rivets I should use???? I am assuming pop rivets?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 6:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

 

 

Hey Mark,

 

I'm assuming you are referring to the rivet holes which hold the aluminum extrusion in place. You should have a total of 8 rivets around it. I can't tell from the pictures if the rivets are in the holes...are they? It is normal for them to be covered with silicone. 

 

Steve

Aloha SM72

Aruba for the summer


On Jul 2, 2017, at 14:54, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Could someone look at the attached picture and tell me if something is suppose to go in these holes (I circled them in the photo)?

 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1867763827

 

 

Currently the foil rotates independently from the drum drive thingamajig (the grey wheel attached to the motor), I have four holes that have been filled with silicone. The foil only rotates when the sail is on and is attached to both the foil and the drum. Should the foil be attached to the drum with something in these holes? If so, how?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadalupe

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Roller Furling Questions

Mark Erdos
 

I did do a search prior to posting and couldn’t find anything specific to my question.

 

Should it be bolts or rivets? If so, does someone have the specs please. If it is bolts, do they pass all the way through and how is the bolt situated on the curved surface? And, how could the bolts be tightened if only one side can be accessed?

 

Since this goof was done by the previous owner I have no idea what the original set up was.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadalupe

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 6:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Roller Furling Questions

 

 

Mark, there should be either bolts or rivets in those holes connecting the drum of the upper drum to the foil. There was a thread just a few days ago (search for jib furler), there were instructions on how to remove that upper drum then you can inspect the upper drum and the foil for the type of connector.


Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Fernando and Ana,
Since another post established that the Exhaust Temperature Switch (it's actually not a sensor) is normally open, your 2nd question is interesting. Your old switch probably did not fail, that is, it likely would still close with high temperature, but the picture of the old switch's broken terminal does look like you'd have to replace it to get a new terminal, rather than attempting a fix (unless you can drill the old post out). 
Given that, you can simply trust the new switch will close when it gets too hot, and shut down the unit. That is a highly likely outcome that I should think you can be comfortable with. In industrial settings, where all safeties had to be tested in service conditions, we used to cut off the cooling water flow and see if the engine shut down (very exciting but not my pocketbook). If you really, really want to test it you'd have to figure out how to heat it past its set point and see if it closed - maybe in your oven, rather than cutting off the cooling water.
By all means, do put a jumper between the new terminals when you install the switch and it should activate the shut down relay (which won't test the switch function but will simulate it closing).
 Have fun.
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris; Abacos, Bahamas 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <svperegrinus@...> wrote :

Hello,


Our sensor, marked F230 402-370 0013, was found failed (one of the wire terminals broken off) during an Onan inspection in Italy, and the part would have taken weeks for express delivery from Onan Netherlands.


Here in Marmaris, the part is available at the Onan shop for a "modest" $125. But I have two questions:


1.  If I install it myself, is there a need for a thermal paste or some other exotic procedure other than just screwing the new sensor where the old one was?


2.  How do you "test" such a sensor?  Obviously its absence has not been detected by the genset, which runs like a champ, so after installing the shiny new part, how do I even know if the new part is doing anything other than sitting pretty?


I think a functioning sensor is important as otherwise an overheating situation will not be detected and the motor will burn out and possibly cause a fire.


Thoughts?  Comments?  Thanks in advance!


Peregrinus

SM2K N. 350 (2002)

Marmaris, Tk


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Roller Furling Questions

Stephen Davis
 

Hey Mark,

I'm assuming you are referring to the rivet holes which hold the aluminum extrusion in place. You should have a total of 8 rivets around it. I can't tell from the pictures if the rivets are in the holes...are they? It is normal for them to be covered with silicone. 

Steve
Aloha SM72
Aruba for the summer

On Jul 2, 2017, at 14:54, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Could someone look at the attached picture and tell me if something is suppose to go in these holes (I circled them in the photo)?

 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1867763827

 

 

Currently the foil rotates independently from the drum drive thingamajig (the grey wheel attached to the motor), I have four holes that have been filled with silicone. The foil only rotates when the sail is on and is attached to both the foil and the drum. Should the foil be attached to the drum with something in these holes? If so, how?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadalupe

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Roller Furling Questions

Duane Siegfri
 

Mark, there should be either bolts or rivets in those holes connecting the drum of the upper drum to the foil. There was a thread just a few days ago (search for jib furler), there were instructions on how to remove that upper drum then you can inspect the upper drum and the foil for the type of connector.


Roller Furling Questions

Mark Erdos
 

Could someone look at the attached picture and tell me if something is suppose to go in these holes (I circled them in the photo)?

 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1867763827

 

 

Currently the foil rotates independently from the drum drive thingamajig (the grey wheel attached to the motor), I have four holes that have been filled with silicone. The foil only rotates when the sail is on and is attached to both the foil and the drum. Should the foil be attached to the drum with something in these holes? If so, how?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadalupe

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 Davits

Peter Forbes
 

Yes - all that and the panels are I think still working though after a circumnavigation a bit weaker than they were.

Peter

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 1 Jul 2017, at 19:00, Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Peter,
Did that price include panels, regulator and installation? 
Cheers
Dean
Amel 54 TBD

On 1 Jul 2017, at 8:20 pm, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Tony, I paid $6,000 in 2013. Excellent product worked well in my circumnavigation.
Peter Forbes 
Carango Amel 54#035
Grenada in hurricane cradle 


On 1 Jul 2017, at 15:10, Tony Robinson tonywrobinson51@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Many thanks John - this was useful.

Tony. 54 no. 102



From: "John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, July 1, 2017 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 Davits

 
Hi Tony,
   Several of us have recently purchased arches from Emek.  I am sure others will share their experiences. 

I have a Super Maramu and paid $4250 for the arch without electronics.  Shipping to Ft Lauderdale was an additional $800.  The arch was shipped along with two other Amel customers' arches so shipping cost was shared.
I opted out of the electronics because the cost here in the US was much much lower for same equipment.

Craftsmanship of the arch is first rate, almost artistic quality.  

 Riza is the fellow to talk to over there. My only complaint is the communication with Riza and the slow delivery.  I commissioned and paid for the arch in January,  assured repeatedly that it would be shipped in a couple of weeks.  I did not receive the arch until the last week of May.  I spoke to other Amel owners and they have had a similar experience with Emek.  

The Emek arch is probably one of the best arches for an Amel, and Emek does deliver, only slow.  


Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston, SC


On Jul 1, 2017 9:00 AM, "Tony Robinson tonywrobinson51@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I believe Emek marine in Gocek, Turkey fabricates an excellent rear arch for an Amel 54 - this provides support for several  solar panels and doubles as davits for a RIB. Does anyone have any idea of the approximate cost of this modification ?

Thanks in advance. Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54 no. 102.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Danny,


Thanks for all your answers. It's always good to hear from a customer rather than a salesman and you sound a satisfied customer.


We will see how our TMD behaves once all the gremlins have been fixed and then make up our minds.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 , Cleopatra, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of simms@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 02 July 2017 16:36:06
To: Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
 

Ian
Me again. Top speed. Max rpm 3000. So similar speed. Cruising. Same again. It is driving through the same gearbox. Same reduction so at any given  rpm same speed. Doesn't seem to be affected as much by prop fouling. It has to be pretty fouled to reduce revs. Of course speed is affected even if the revs are not.
Regards (hope I've got it all this time)
Danny

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 2 Jul 2017 1:12 p.m., "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
 

 Hi Danny,


Very interested to read your email and would love to hear more. 

 

With the exhaust on the other side were you still able to connect to the original stainless muffle box ?

How accessible is the seawater pump ? it's good that it no longer sits above the engine.

Are you sure that the D2-75 is lighter than the TMD ? The specs I have seen suggest much the same weight.

We usually cruise at about  6.3-6.5k if motoring any distance--often for many hours in the Med. That means about 17-1900 revs, depending on the sea condition.   How does that compare ?

Top speed with the TMD in flat calm with a clean bottom and prop is about 8.3, 8.4k at 2800revs.  How does this compare ?

Do you know at what revs the turbo kicks in ? We religiously give our TMD a blast every 12 hours or so. Waste of diesel, but apparently it keeps the  turbo happy.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of simms@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 02 July 2017 07:26:53
To: Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
 

Hi Ian.
You may have noticed a while ago my post re damage caused by over turboing the tmd22 when the waste gate freezes. It caused the death of our tmd but only after much expense based on bad advice. We installed the d2-75. Good fit. Had to make a little spacer and then it bolted neatly to the angle bars the engine bolts to. The exhaust is on the opposite side, no trouble. It is a turbo engine, 50hp turboed to 75.
A lighter engine, you can see the difference on the waterline. Good torque, will pull the rated max revs even with fouling on the prop. If you decide to go that way I can give you more details
WARNING. Amel told me not to put the 110 in as the c drive in mine is not built for that HP. The later models that were fitted with the 110 had an upgraded c drive. You have been warned
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 27 Jun 2017 17:04, "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 

Hi All,


I am sorry to say that we have had a poor experience with TPS, the Volvo agents in Hyeres. Suffice it say that last winter they made a meal out a major service on our 17 year old TMD22P, and 150 hours later we still lack confidence in an engine which didn't miss a beat before they attended to it.

 I am 70  ( Judy remains 21 ) and God willing  can   look forward to another ten years or so of gentle cruising, but I am too busy now to have an unreliable engine.


So, ridiculous expense though it may sound, we are  thinking of swapping our old engine for a new one. Volvo have recommended the D2-75, 75 hp, no electrics beyond the starter motor ( a huge plus in my book )


Its feet and drive connection are said to be a good fit for the old engine.


The alternative would be the D3-110, but we have never been short of power with the TMD22P, which although 78hp is governed down to 60 hp by Amel. Also, I like the extra range that the smaller engine would give.


Has anyone had experience of a D2-75 in an SM ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece  








Re: Jib Furler problem with partly furled sail

Duane Siegfri
 

I finally got the clutch pin out and found that it was substantially bent.  The clutch pin "handle" was reversed because the bent pin would not permit the handle to be mounted properly, which also caused it to not engage all of the plate.

Maude does not have any, she offered one "that we still have on our shelves", which had a hexagonal section just below the "handle", and was obviously not the correct one.

I'm planning on ordering one made from a machine shop.  Since the cost of having one made is mostly the set up cost if anyone wants one they can let me know in the next few days and I'll include it in the order.  I will post a photo of mine for you to check.  If someone is interested I'll forward the drawing I'll use to order the part so you can check yours against the drawing.

Has anyone heard of this pin bending before??? 

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D3-110 low oil pressure warning

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks every one for the replies.

After about 5 hours of motor sailing we lowered the RPM slowly and did not get a low pressure warning.

It's been over 100 degrees and zero wind in chania so still have not gone into the engine room to check the sensor.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jul 1, 2017, at 8:17 PM, Lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,
  As far as I know, all engines with pressurized oil systems also have a pressure relief valve which bypasses the excess oil at a preset pressure.  I can tell you that if the valve gets stuck closed that it can really make a mess when the oil filter blows off. (Grin)   In the case of being unsure of an electronic oil pressure reading, I like to connect a mechanical gauge to help eliminate the guessing. 
Best,

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220


Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 07-01-2017 1:54 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D3-110 low oil pressure warning


 

I do not believe the D3-110 has any adjustment for oil pressure. It does have a "safety valve," but I am not sure of that valve's function.

I would eliminate #1 before investigating others.

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 8:07 AM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks bill. We are approaching Chania in Crete. We have been motor sailing for the past almost 4 hours and no issues at cruising RPMS. (1350 -1500). I have located the oil pressure sensor but cannot get to it with the engine running. Once we dock I can get into it more. I agree with your assessment and the likely issue being item #1.

In my search online it appears that other Volvo Penta owners have experienced this and some have dealt with it by lowering the RPMs slowly.  We'll try this once close in to see if this makes any difference. Do you know if there is a governor/limiter that adjust to the oil pressure to ensure proper flow at all RPMs?

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo

On Jul 1, 2017, at 3:41 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@s vbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

My guess in order of probability:
1.) The oil pressure sender needs cleaning and/or replacing, or has a loose or worn wire. 
2.) There is a problem with the computer
3.) The oil pump needs to be replaced
4.) Main bearings worn

I am betting it is number 1. 

BTW, I don't believe that this applies to you, but there is a known issue with a Yanmar that causes an indication of low pressure...there is a "T" that the oil pressure sender screws into. This "T" is known to get clogged and cause low pressure. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   
< div class="gmail_extra">
On Jul 1, 2017 03:33, "mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi everyone;


We left Kythera this morning to head to Crete. About 15 minutes out of Kythera we had sufficient wind so we backed out the engine RPMs from about 1500 to Idle to shut off the engine. We immediately got a low oil pressure warning and a message to shut down the engine. Having had check engine faults before that per the suggestions in the manual  would go away after turning the engine off and then back on again, we tried this with the low oil pressure warning. We got the same warning again. So we shut down the engine and sailed back to our anchorage that we had just left and dropped anchor again. After waiting about 10 more minutes and having reviewed the Volvo manual, we turned the engine on again. We did not have the warning. We then placed the engine in reverse and reved up to 1400 RPMs 4 separate times for about 30 seconds, as if we were setting the anchor. The issue did not reappear.


We de cide d to head out, having good favorable winds. We sailed for about 1 hour before the wind started to die down and we started the engine and started motor sailing. After 30 minutes the wind came back up again so we decided to turn off the engine. When we lowered the RPMs to idle, the low pressure warning light came on again. So we have shutoff the engine and are now sailing with about 7 hours left to Crete. The forecast is for the wind to die down when we get close to,our harbor and we will probably need to motor sail the last couple of hours.


I checked the engine oil before we started me again after we received the warning. The oil and oil filter were changed about 1 month ago with genuine Volvo parts about a month ago. I have not looked through the manuals or done any research yet, since I wanted to,get this post out before we lost connection. If any one knows the location of the oil pressure sensor, I'd appreciate the info since it may just be a loose electrical connection. All ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.


Mohammad & Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill
Is is definitely a turbo engine. It is the same block as the non turbo d 2 50 so perhaps that was the one you read.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 2 Jul 2017 1:40 p.m., "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Danny,


Interesting...  Volvo's specification sheet calls the D2-75 a "naturally aspirated" engine.  I saw what looked like a turbocharger in the picture, but figured I'd believe what was written--obviously wrong.

I'd really prefer a non-turbo engine, but in this size range they are few.

Bill Kinney 
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Ian
Me again. Top speed. Max rpm 3000. So similar speed. Cruising. Same again. It is driving through the same gearbox. Same reduction so at any given  rpm same speed. Doesn't seem to be affected as much by prop fouling. It has to be pretty fouled to reduce revs. Of course speed is affected even if the revs are not.
Regards (hope I've got it all this time)
Danny

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 2 Jul 2017 1:12 p.m., "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 Hi Danny,


Very interested to read your email and would love to hear more. 

 

With the exhaust on the other side were you still able to connect to the original stainless muffle box ?

How accessible is the seawater pump ? it's good that it no longer sits above the engine.

Are you sure that the D2-75 is lighter than the TMD ? The specs I have seen suggest much the same weight.

We usually cruise at about  6.3-6.5k if motoring any distance--often for many hours in the Med. That means about 17-1900 revs, depending on the sea condition.   How does that compare ?

Top speed with the TMD in flat calm with a clean bottom and prop is about 8.3, 8.4k at 2800revs.  How does this compare ?

Do you know at what revs the turbo kicks in ? We religiously give our TMD a blast every 12 hours or so. Waste of diesel, but apparently it keeps the  turbo happy.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 02 July 2017 07:26:53
To: Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
 

Hi Ian.
You may have noticed a while ago my post re damage caused by over turboing the tmd22 when the waste gate freezes. It caused the death of our tmd but only after much expense based on bad advice. We installed the d2-75. Good fit. Had to make a little spacer and then it bolted neatly to the angle bars the engine bolts to. The exhaust is on the opposite side, no trouble. It is a turbo engine, 50hp turboed to 75.
A lighter engine, you can see the difference on the waterline. Good torque, will pull the rated max revs even with fouling on the prop. If you decide to go that way I can give you more details
WARNING. Amel told me not to put the 110 in as the c drive in mine is not built for that HP. The later models that were fitted with the 110 had an upgraded c drive. You have been warned
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 27 Jun 2017 17:04, "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi All,


I am sorry to say that we have had a poor experience with TPS, the Volvo agents in Hyeres. Suffice it say that last winter they made a meal out a major service on our 17 year old TMD22P, and 150 hours later we still lack confidence in an engine which didn't miss a beat before they attended to it.

 I am 70  ( Judy remains 21 ) and God willing  can   look forward to another ten years or so of gentle cruising, but I am too busy now to have an unreliable engine.


So, ridiculous expense though it may sound, we are  thinking of swapping our old engine for a new one. Volvo have recommended the D2-75, 75 hp, no electrics beyond the starter motor ( a huge plus in my book )


Its feet and drive connection are said to be a good fit for the old engine.


The alternative would be the D3-110, but we have never been short of power with the TMD22P, which although 78hp is governed down to 60 hp by Amel. Also, I like the extra range that the smaller engine would give.


Has anyone had experience of a D2-75 in an SM ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece  








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Ian.
Forgot to say the salt water pump is on the front of the motor low down. Easy to get at but have to lean over the engine.
The heat exchanger is not easy to access. Unlike the tmd22.
Weight, boat certainly floats higher at the stern.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 2 Jul 2017 1:12 p.m., "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 Hi Danny,


Very interested to read your email and would love to hear more. 

 

With the exhaust on the other side were you still able to connect to the original stainless muffle box ?

How accessible is the seawater pump ? it's good that it no longer sits above the engine.

Are you sure that the D2-75 is lighter than the TMD ? The specs I have seen suggest much the same weight.

We usually cruise at about  6.3-6.5k if motoring any distance--often for many hours in the Med. That means about 17-1900 revs, depending on the sea condition.   How does that compare ?

Top speed with the TMD in flat calm with a clean bottom and prop is about 8.3, 8.4k at 2800revs.  How does this compare ?

Do you know at what revs the turbo kicks in ? We religiously give our TMD a blast every 12 hours or so. Waste of diesel, but apparently it keeps the  turbo happy.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 02 July 2017 07:26:53
To: Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
 

Hi Ian.
You may have noticed a while ago my post re damage caused by over turboing the tmd22 when the waste gate freezes. It caused the death of our tmd but only after much expense based on bad advice. We installed the d2-75. Good fit. Had to make a little spacer and then it bolted neatly to the angle bars the engine bolts to. The exhaust is on the opposite side, no trouble. It is a turbo engine, 50hp turboed to 75.
A lighter engine, you can see the difference on the waterline. Good torque, will pull the rated max revs even with fouling on the prop. If you decide to go that way I can give you more details
WARNING. Amel told me not to put the 110 in as the c drive in mine is not built for that HP. The later models that were fitted with the 110 had an upgraded c drive. You have been warned
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 27 Jun 2017 17:04, "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi All,


I am sorry to say that we have had a poor experience with TPS, the Volvo agents in Hyeres. Suffice it say that last winter they made a meal out a major service on our 17 year old TMD22P, and 150 hours later we still lack confidence in an engine which didn't miss a beat before they attended to it.

 I am 70  ( Judy remains 21 ) and God willing  can   look forward to another ten years or so of gentle cruising, but I am too busy now to have an unreliable engine.


So, ridiculous expense though it may sound, we are  thinking of swapping our old engine for a new one. Volvo have recommended the D2-75, 75 hp, no electrics beyond the starter motor ( a huge plus in my book )


Its feet and drive connection are said to be a good fit for the old engine.


The alternative would be the D3-110, but we have never been short of power with the TMD22P, which although 78hp is governed down to 60 hp by Amel. Also, I like the extra range that the smaller engine would give.


Has anyone had experience of a D2-75 in an SM ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece  








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ian,
The installers routed the exhaust across the engine to the box. They had to cut, turn, and weld the entry tube to meet it. I thought a better alternative was to swap the box to the other side. I believe it would have fitted there. However they were doing the install.
The gear box was a bolt on. No trouble. New instrument panel and looms to it, glad they were doing that bit and not me. Throttle cable no trouble.
They had to construct a frame for the 24 volt house battery alternator, used the same alternator
The installers were long time Volvo service and sales agents in Auckland NZ,   they seemed to know their job.
I seriously considered the yanmar equivalent. Went Volvo because of the drop in and bolt up would keep the install costs down.
I was told later by an industry person that the install can cost as much as the engine. Mine did not by a long way.
I unbuckled the old one my self and did a lot of the straight forward jobs putting the new one in and kept a close hand on what was done.
The prep on the new one was done and we lifted the old one out and dropped the new in concurrently with the same crane.
I'm still not sure a full overhaul of the tmd22 rebore, shaft grind and rings and bearings etc wouldn't have been a better way. But the pros tell me not.
I think the turbo starts about 1800 to 2000 rpm, just from a mechanics comment.
Happy to answer any other questions
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 2 Jul 2017 1:12 p.m., "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 Hi Danny,


Very interested to read your email and would love to hear more. 

 

With the exhaust on the other side were you still able to connect to the original stainless muffle box ?

How accessible is the seawater pump ? it's good that it no longer sits above the engine.

Are you sure that the D2-75 is lighter than the TMD ? The specs I have seen suggest much the same weight.

We usually cruise at about  6.3-6.5k if motoring any distance--often for many hours in the Med. That means about 17-1900 revs, depending on the sea condition.   How does that compare ?

Top speed with the TMD in flat calm with a clean bottom and prop is about 8.3, 8.4k at 2800revs.  How does this compare ?

Do you know at what revs the turbo kicks in ? We religiously give our TMD a blast every 12 hours or so. Waste of diesel, but apparently it keeps the  turbo happy.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 02 July 2017 07:26:53
To: Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
 

Hi Ian.
You may have noticed a while ago my post re damage caused by over turboing the tmd22 when the waste gate freezes. It caused the death of our tmd but only after much expense based on bad advice. We installed the d2-75. Good fit. Had to make a little spacer and then it bolted neatly to the angle bars the engine bolts to. The exhaust is on the opposite side, no trouble. It is a turbo engine, 50hp turboed to 75.
A lighter engine, you can see the difference on the waterline. Good torque, will pull the rated max revs even with fouling on the prop. If you decide to go that way I can give you more details
WARNING. Amel told me not to put the 110 in as the c drive in mine is not built for that HP. The later models that were fitted with the 110 had an upgraded c drive. You have been warned
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On 27 Jun 2017 17:04, "Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi All,


I am sorry to say that we have had a poor experience with TPS, the Volvo agents in Hyeres. Suffice it say that last winter they made a meal out a major service on our 17 year old TMD22P, and 150 hours later we still lack confidence in an engine which didn't miss a beat before they attended to it.

 I am 70  ( Judy remains 21 ) and God willing  can   look forward to another ten years or so of gentle cruising, but I am too busy now to have an unreliable engine.


So, ridiculous expense though it may sound, we are  thinking of swapping our old engine for a new one. Volvo have recommended the D2-75, 75 hp, no electrics beyond the starter motor ( a huge plus in my book )


Its feet and drive connection are said to be a good fit for the old engine.


The alternative would be the D3-110, but we have never been short of power with the TMD22P, which although 78hp is governed down to 60 hp by Amel. Also, I like the extra range that the smaller engine would give.


Has anyone had experience of a D2-75 in an SM ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece  








Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Fernando:

Sorry for the piecemeal reply,  I looked up what I paid for that PN switch in April 2016 and it was $67 here in the USA from Cummins Diesel Rocky Mountain (my Onan parts supplier here in Utah, USA).  Just a reference point. Turkey is a far piece distance from the USA and that might account for the $125 price.

Gary S. Silver


Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Fernando:

I see I didn't answer all your questions in your original post.

There is no thermal paste on my installation, nor does the service manual mention such.  Just screw the new sensor into place on the mounting pad on the exhaust elbow and connect the terminals.  It wouldn't hurt to treat the terminals with some corrosionX or some such treatment.

To test any of the sensors in the engine fault shut down circuit you merely need to short across the terminals, thus providing a ground path for the CB2 engine fault shut down breaker. 

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona  
Amel SM 2000 #335


Re: Exhaust water temperature sensor 7MDKAL

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Fernando:

Here is a quote from the service manual for your generator.  (in the files section of this forum)

Fault Shutdown Sequence

"Check Engine" Faults: The following fault

switches shut down the genset by grounding terminal 

2 on fault breaker CB2, causing it to trip:  

. High engine temperature switch S2

. Low coolant level switch S3, via relay K6

. Low oil pressure with S4

. High exhaust temperature switch S5

. AVRo overspeed circuit 


Based on this and the schematic contained in the same manual it appears the above noted switches are "normally open" and they close to provide a ground path when they go into a fault condition (i.e. too high of an exhaust temperature).  So, the failed terminal would prevent the switch from activating.  I can't account for why Bill's genset ran when the broken terminals were connected together as it would appear that would create a permanent fault condition, unless there was another work around by the technicians. 


You can test this theory by grounding the broken terminal to the non-broken terminal while the genset is running and seeing if the genset shuts down, or by measuring continuity across the switch as Bill suggested. 


By not having the S5 switch functional your system is missing a fairly important safety device and you should replace it at your earliest.


All the best, 


Gary S. Silver 

s/v Liahona 

Amel SM 2000 #335

Puerto Del Ray   Fajardo Puerto Rico

cell 801-543-5801



Re: Replacement Generator exhaust hose (install)

Terence Singh
 

Thank you Mark and Bill.

I will request the yard to make sure the exhaust hose follows the original installation.

Terry&Dena
SV Libby # 196
Maple Bay, BC


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

greatketch@...
 

Danny,

Interesting...  Volvo's specification sheet calls the D2-75 a "naturally aspirated" engine.  I saw what looked like a turbocharger in the picture, but figured I'd believe what was written--obviously wrong.

I'd really prefer a non-turbo engine, but in this size range they are few.

Bill Kinney 
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass.