Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill Kinney, Yes, but I think we are assuming that the cycling is because of a pressure drop. We should not forget the pressure switch could be the cause, though I doubt it. If the actual pressure was greater than 3 bar, the pressure switch is certainly misadjusted. It should be close to 2 bar.

Until Bill Maffei gets a good pressure valve, troubleshooting, especially remotely is fraught with error.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 9:25 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.


This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

greatketch@...
 

While trying to track down a problem like this, I installed a valve between the pressure gauge and the pump.  So flow is from tank, to pump, to valve, to pressure gauge, to distribution manifold.

This makes isolating the problem to the plumbing or the pump a matter of seconds: Close valve. Does pressure gauge show drop?  If yes, plumbing problem;  if no, pump problem.

If the pump is cycling frequently and is pumping a reasonable amount of water, once you have eliminated dripping taps, there are not many places it can leak in the boat you would not notice the puddle growing! (Don't forget to check the cockpit hose!)

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, MA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

I like that vacuum cleaner trick!

Kent 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

Hi Eric
I managed to get it to move by getting in the dinghy and pulling from the light end.  But the 80lb test monofilament line I was pulling through got hung up and broke.  Awww Crap!!!!  Amazingly I was able to run a snake all the way around and grab the fishing line through the hole with a little hook.  I used the flat Ancor line as you suggested and it came through the pulpit easily.   I couldn't get the end to come out at the light, but starting at the light and pulling the end out through the locker was easy.

My backing plate area looks good, no swelling or rust noticeable.  I tried removing the bolts holding the stanchions  on the rail and was unable to budge them.  I can feel the bolts coming through the plates and into the locker through the glass (?or epoxy paint?)  How did you get yours to come out?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder Anodes

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Rick,

Let me try to help you with what I know, peppered with my opinions. 

I am 99% sure that rudder zincs we're on all Maramus. To be certain, you should ask Joel Potter jfpottercys"at"att.net.

A good condition and non-corrupted Maramu can be a great boat. However, a Maramu owned by either a non-caring owner, or an owner that was intent on changing the design of his Amel to match his previous boat, can be your worse nightmare. Almost all boats that have been "on the hard" for a year or more are neglected or abused boats. 

Trust me when I say that there are no "DIY recondition" Maramus worth buying. Try to find one that is currently being sailed regularly, owned by a caring owner, and has been kept in original condition. They are out there and they all will sell for about the average selling price for their age. Bargain hunting for an Amel will most certainly cause you grief. The same is mostly true in bargain hunting for a classic Porsche or Mercedes. 

Good luck on your search. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Jul 16, 2017 06:22, "reswinemar@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi All,

I am looking at a 1983 Amel Maramu and I don't see any rudder anodes or a place to attach them. Is this something that was not standard for early Maramus? Does anyone have any pics of where they should be located?

Thanks

Rick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries, combination parallel and serial

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning James,

To add to Bill comments (and I totally agree with the AGM comment regarding the engine alternator).

Here is a link that while help you determine is you have the setting for 8 +1 or 12 + 1 battery configuration.

I have the 8 + 1 and the dimensions are:
162 cm (or 64”) long by 39 cm (or 15.2 ) wide
http://nikimat.com/battery_compartment_space.html

If you have the 12 + 1 battery configuration, then the width should be considerably more, I estimate 60 cm (or 24”)

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port de Plaisance de Gustavia, Saint Barthélémy, FWI



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 7/15/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries, combination parallel and serial
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2017, 7:52 PM


 









James,
Let me see if I can help
you.
Your boat
originally came with either 8 or 12 batteries which were
Group 31. Someone replaced the 31s with
27s???
Remember, 2
each 12VDC 110 amp/hour batteries connected in series,
produce 24VDC 110 amp/hour.
Whether it is 8 or 12, the battery
bank consisted of pairs which were connected in
series....Then each pair was wired parallel to the 24 Volt
Negative and Positive Busses.
If you have the original 175amp
Leece Neville Alternator, it will not charge the AGMs
correctly unless you add a smart charger to it, and this is
NOT a plug and play routine job. If you have the original
Dolphin battery chargers, I think your hull number is late
enough that your charges can be adjusted for AGM...but, if
not, this is another issue that will cause issues. You may
want to reconsider and use a battery bank that was planned
with the existing charging system.
You can call me Monday for more
information.
Best,
CW Bill RouseAdmiral,
Texas NavyCommander EmeritusAmel
School www.amelschool.com720
Winnie StGalveston Island, TX 77550instructor@amelschool.com +1(832)
380-4970


On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at
5:39 PM, jamessterling88@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









I'm about to replace my group 27 wet cells with
group 31 AGM's.  My bank has 8 in parallel connected on
the negative by twos with copper plates.  Since the
AGM's are a little wider, jumpers will replace the
copper plates. There are 4 along side the front of the bank
(end to end) connected in serial.  In researching this in
the group, I see BeBe's bank which appears to have 8 in
series and 4 in parallel.  This confuses me a bit.  Can
anyone enlighten me?  I want to make sure I do this
right.

James
s/v Longbow SM2K Redline #418


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Kent 
I just last month did this job:  I replaced both port and starboard Agua Signal light fixtures and pulled new two conductor marine grade wire.  Pulling the wire was not easy.   To begin I intended to replace internal metal/plastic part of fixture as metal had corroded and plastic cracked. (Both lights had dead shorts). Unfortunately I  could not buy those parts.   Metal socket for bulb was available but not plastic part it attaches to.  I had to buy two new Aqua-signal light assemblies - €200.  No joy!  Installing fixtures was easy part.   

When I attempted to connect new fixtures I could see wire was corroded and not reliable.  I cut off bad ends  and peeled back insulation but could find no good cooper.  And wire end was becoming too short to reach fixture.   Time for new wire.

I pulled port side first.  I sewed a piece of small gauge rope to wire end.  This must be strong cord.  No cheap stuff.  Plus it must be sewed well and compact.  No lump that will jam in rail.  Then I took a small knife and from inside the port bow locker chipped away at fiberglass and silicone that was obstructing wire passageway.  Then I begin the push and pull.  If the wire and cord separate; that is, you pull the old wire out but no cord to pull in new wire, you can use a metal coat hanger to get the job done.  Straighten out the coat hanger and push it from top down into port locker then use hanger to pull cord you will use to pull wire.   Distance is short here so not that difficult.  

Now the fun part:  pulling starboard fixture wire.  Here it is absolutely critical you have a attached very well a strong cord to the old wire.  It must be stitched well and no lumps.  Then you go into port locker and begin pulling.  In the beginning, you will need some back and forth motion; that is, you pull a few inches into locker and then pull back out at starboard fixture.  Once it begins to move freely you can pull all the way through.  You will need pull very hard.  Hence the need for a good connection to cord.

I made it all the way to the opening in the port locker before the wire separated from the cord.  The worse part was over.  Since the cord was now in the rail above the port locker I was able to use a coat hanger with a hook to pull it all the way through.  

Also make sure the cable you pull is no larger than 16 AWG.  Round is better than flat, if you can find it.  I could not.  And make sure you get an extra long length of wire.  No joy to run out of cable when you're pulling and almost there.  I knew a guy this happened to.  And when complete you have extra cable length zip tied in port locker.  Next time outside end becomes corroded you can pull new cable out of rail pipe knowing you hav plenty.  

This job takes a lot of patience and tenacity.  Don't give up and good luck.


Ben

Ben and Gayle 
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Jul 15, 2017, at 8:53 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Did you chip away the fiberglass away from under the stanchion in the locker. My backing plate  was expanded and totally rusted . It was preventing the wire from moving.

Once I removed the rusted backing plate the wire moved easily and I tied a thin piece of dyneema to the starboard cable once it was loose and was able to pull it through. Then a new wire.

My heart was in my throat as I pulled the line and then the cable through. On another boat I used a shop vac to suck a line through pulpit.

Good luck,

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

 

 

Hi Amelians
I hope everyone is having a good season, wherever you are.
I am replacing the bow navigation light fixtures, and need some advice. I can't budge the cable that goes from the port bow locker, up the pulpit stanchion,, around the upper pulpit tube, and down the starboard stanchion to the light. It won't move a mm from either end. To make matters more difficult, I'm single handed and can't work both ends at the same time.

When the cables are stripped back a ways, the inner wires are black, but not brittle. If I scrape them a bit with a knife, they are shiny copper under the black.

Unfortunately the two terminal wires to the fixtures were joined to the cables from forward by a non waterproof junction, and the cable from forward has the same issue. Inner wires darkened, but not brittle.

I think they should probably be replaced, but it's going to be a major project to get the starboard wire out for replacement. I've already taken Eric's advice and removed the port stanchion from the rail, still can't budge the cable.

Any advice? Either for how to remove the old wire or what the issues are for leaving the old wire in place and securing all connections in a waterproof manner.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass on.

Kent,
SM 243
Kristy
Currently St Michaels Maryland


Rudder Anodes

Rick Swinemar Jazz II Maramu #144
 

Hi All,

I am looking at a 1983 Amel Maramu and I don't see any rudder anodes or a place to attach them. Is this something that was not standard for early Maramus? Does anyone have any pics of where they should be located?

Thanks

Rick


Re: wiring path info

Gary Wells
 

I pulled a new line through last year. It took some serious digging to get all the old sealant out so that the wire would move. There was a lot of sealant both at the ends through the deck and well as where the wire emerged to the fixture.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill,

If you have a pressure drop, you either have a water leak somewhere, or you have water bypassing the one-way valve back to the tank.

Bill Rouse

On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 9:22 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The fresh water system. One-way valve is brand new. I have traced the Caleffi valve and it goes to a manifold that leads to the expansion tank, fresh water flush (water maker) and then ultimately supplies the aft manifold leading to the hot water tank and various plumbing supply lines. There are no leaks that I can see. Also, on a side note I bypassed the reverse osmosis filtration system and there is still a pressure loss. So confused hahaha


Bill Maffei 
SM #195
It's all Good 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

william_maffei@...
 

The fresh water system. One-way valve is brand new. I have traced the Caleffi valve and it goes to a manifold that leads to the expansion tank, fresh water flush (water maker) and then ultimately supplies the aft manifold leading to the hot water tank and various plumbing supply lines. There are no leaks that I can see. Also, on a side note I bypassed the reverse osmosis filtration system and there is still a pressure loss. So confused hahaha

Bill Maffei 
SM #195
It's all Good 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Did you chip away the fiberglass away from under the stanchion in the locker. My backing plate  was expanded and totally rusted . It was preventing the wire from moving.

Once I removed the rusted backing plate the wire moved easily and I tied a thin piece of dyneema to the starboard cable once it was loose and was able to pull it through. Then a new wire.

My heart was in my throat as I pulled the line and then the cable through. On another boat I used a shop vac to suck a line through pulpit.

Good luck,

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wiring path Info

 

 

Hi Amelians
I hope everyone is having a good season, wherever you are.
I am replacing the bow navigation light fixtures, and need some advice. I can't budge the cable that goes from the port bow locker, up the pulpit stanchion,, around the upper pulpit tube, and down the starboard stanchion to the light. It won't move a mm from either end. To make matters more difficult, I'm single handed and can't work both ends at the same time.

When the cables are stripped back a ways, the inner wires are black, but not brittle. If I scrape them a bit with a knife, they are shiny copper under the black.

Unfortunately the two terminal wires to the fixtures were joined to the cables from forward by a non waterproof junction, and the cable from forward has the same issue. Inner wires darkened, but not brittle.

I think they should probably be replaced, but it's going to be a major project to get the starboard wire out for replacement. I've already taken Eric's advice and removed the port stanchion from the rail, still can't budge the cable.

Any advice? Either for how to remove the old wire or what the issues are for leaving the old wire in place and securing all connections in a waterproof manner.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass on.

Kent,
SM 243
Kristy
Currently St Michaels Maryland


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries, combination parallel and serial

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

Let me see if I can help you.

Your boat originally came with either 8 or 12 batteries which were Group 31. Someone replaced the 31s with 27s???

Remember, 2 each 12VDC 110 amp/hour batteries connected in series, produce 24VDC 110 amp/hour.

Whether it is 8 or 12, the battery bank consisted of pairs which were connected in series....Then each pair was wired parallel to the 24 Volt Negative and Positive Busses.

If you have the original 175amp Leece Neville Alternator, it will not charge the AGMs correctly unless you add a smart charger to it, and this is NOT a plug and play routine job. If you have the original Dolphin battery chargers, I think your hull number is late enough that your charges can be adjusted for AGM...but, if not, this is another issue that will cause issues. You may want to reconsider and use a battery bank that was planned with the existing charging system.

You can call me Monday for more information.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 5:39 PM, jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm about to replace my group 27 wet cells with group 31 AGM's.  My bank has 8 in parallel connected on the negative by twos with copper plates.  Since the AGM's are a little wider, jumpers will replace the copper plates. There are 4 along side the front of the bank (end to end) connected in serial.  In researching this in the group, I see BeBe's bank which appears to have 8 in series and 4 in parallel.  This confuses me a bit.  Can anyone enlighten me?  I want to make sure I do this right.

James
s/v Longbow SM2K Redline #418




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Caleffi Mixing Valve

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill

Which pump are you referring to?

Cycling ON is sometimes leakage of the one-way valve.

The pressure gauge is easy to find and replace.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 1:58 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hey Everyone -


I have an issue where my H2O pump cycles on which tells me there is a break in pressure somewhere. I have begun tracing the lines to find the source. I have a Caleffi Mixing Valve that I would love to learn more about. Anyone have any experience with these? Mine does not move from the 3.5bar mark on the pressure gauge. Thinking it might need a cleaning/service or replacement. The gauge on my water pump shows accurate pressure so it leads to to believe this gauge is not working... or I just know nothing about it. Can anyone provide some insight? 


Many thanks,


Bill Maffei 

SM# 195

It's all Good 



Batteries, combination parallel and serial

James Sterling
 

I'm about to replace my group 27 wet cells with group 31 AGM's.  My bank has 8 in parallel connected on the negative by twos with copper plates.  Since the AGM's are a little wider, jumpers will replace the copper plates. There are 4 along side the front of the bank (end to end) connected in serial.  In researching this in the group, I see BeBe's bank which appears to have 8 in series and 4 in parallel.  This confuses me a bit.  Can anyone enlighten me?  I want to make sure I do this right.

James
s/v Longbow SM2K Redline #418



Re: Wiring path Info

karkauai
 

Hi Amelians
I hope everyone is having a good season, wherever you are.
I am replacing the bow navigation light fixtures, and need some advice. I can't budge the cable that goes from the port bow locker, up the pulpit stanchion,, around the upper pulpit tube, and down the starboard stanchion to the light. It won't move a mm from either end. To make matters more difficult, I'm single handed and can't work both ends at the same time.

When the cables are stripped back a ways, the inner wires are black, but not brittle. If I scrape them a bit with a knife, they are shiny copper under the black.

Unfortunately the two terminal wires to the fixtures were joined to the cables from forward by a non waterproof junction, and the cable from forward has the same issue. Inner wires darkened, but not brittle.

I think they should probably be replaced, but it's going to be a major project to get the starboard wire out for replacement. I've already taken Eric's advice and removed the port stanchion from the rail, still can't budge the cable.

Any advice? Either for how to remove the old wire or what the issues are for leaving the old wire in place and securing all connections in a waterproof manner.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass on.

Kent,
SM 243
Kristy
Currently St Michaels Maryland


Caleffi Mixing Valve

william_maffei@...
 

Hey Everyone -


I have an issue where my H2O pump cycles on which tells me there is a break in pressure somewhere. I have begun tracing the lines to find the source. I have a Caleffi Mixing Valve that I would love to learn more about. Anyone have any experience with these? Mine does not move from the 3.5bar mark on the pressure gauge. Thinking it might need a cleaning/service or replacement. The gauge on my water pump shows accurate pressure so it leads to to believe this gauge is not working... or I just know nothing about it. Can anyone provide some insight? 


Many thanks,


Bill Maffei 

SM# 195

It's all Good 


Re: Climma AC Capacitors

Duane Siegfri
 

Here's a primer on the difference between start and run capacitors.


Duane


Re: Climma AC Capacitors

Duane Siegfri
 

Here's an interesting thread on using 50hz motors at 60hz.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC Capacitors

greatketch@...
 

Makes sense. A run capacitor should last 40k hours or so.  Start capacitors less so.  I must just be on the lucky side that none of the many motor driven things I have repaired ever needed a capacitor to get running again.

I often make the erroneous assumption that other people use things on their boats in the same way we do. For us, accumulating 40K hours on our AC units would take about 100 years--we use them that infrequently.  We also have a boat a bit simpler than many and just have fewer capacitors on our boat with just two AC units, and no other AC motors other than the clothes washer.

We had the original Cruiseair AC units when we bought Harmonie.  One compressor had an internal check valve fail shortly after we got the boat, the other is still going strong.  We thought--briefly--about replacing the failed compressor, but by the time we added the cost of parts and labor, and other potential issues with an old unit, it was more cost effective to just replace the whole thing since the install labor is free (me).

On a closely related topic, do you know what brand of compressor the Climma units use?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Boston, Mass

---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Bill,

It may be just the numbers. For instance a SM2k has about 20 capacitors that will completely fail within 10-20 years, and all of them will begin to get out of spec in a few years. A start capacitor may work for years while out of spec. The Climma fan speed capacitors are critical because sufficient fan speed is necessary to keep the high temperature interrupt switch from opening...and, of course sufficient fan speed is required to sufficiently cool. 

I think that the majority of SM owners in this forum have 10-25 year-old Climma AC units and every one of those capacitors is at end-to-end. That age statistic is amazing for a marine AC, considering most home ACs don't last 20 years...and most home AC units will have a capacitor failure in their lifetime. 

So, I think it is the numbers. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Jul 14, 2017 11:34, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Can anybody explain how I have gone my entire life working around household, industrial and marine equipment, and never replaced a capacitor on a motor, yet it seems to be a routine failure we talk about here?  Am I just lucky?  Or is there something going on?  Now to be fair, very few of the electric motors I have used around boats have been AC motors, so it might just be a sample too small to give useful data.


Is there something special about the electrical supply characteristics or the general environment on board that is causing this?  Maybe salt air getting into the capacitor and shorting out the plates?

For what it is worth, I haven't had a failure of a capacitor on Harmonie--yet. (I am sure just that just jinxed at least one of them!)  On the other had, we hardly ever use any of our AC motors, so it might just be a usage factor.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harm onie
Boston, Mass