Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat,

That's the good side of problems, it gets us on to the forum to renew friendships. Great to maintain contact from so far away.

Regards

Danny

On 26 July 2017 at 09:38 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danny, The intermittent starting problem I have had for months. The engine would do nothing or it would start right up normally. I switched out batteries , no jumper . I think it is most likely to be a poor connection somewhere and probably on the negative side. Thats where I will start , going out to the boat now to get started. Good to hear from you , say Hi ! to Yvonne .

Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 3:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
 
Hi Pat,
I spin through the posts deleting after read but I believe you said the motors start sometimes, sometimes not. When they start do they spin as per normal or groan. Batteries dont fail and then not fail. You've tried another battery with no change which gives a pretty positive lead to it not being battery.  Was that by jumper lead or by switching via terminals? The symptoms sound like a bad connection. Not the starting switch because there are separate for each engine. It has to be a common connection. Battery terminals a good starting point
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 26 July 2017 at 04:36 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.

Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.   ;
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eric, I think this should be addressed to Pat though. I believe it is both the gen set and main engine not starting so that is likely to rule out starter motor connections, solenoids etc. Unless by some fluke they all are out on both engines. Possible but unlikely. It goes back to being some connection common to both circuits. That rules out a lot.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 26 July 2017 at 09:44 "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Danny,
I would have someone turn the key and feel if the Valeo solenoid closes.
If it does I would check the engine start solenoid probably near  the Valeo solenoid.
You could also have a bad connection in the Yanmar wiring .
You could also have a bad starter switch.
All of this can be checked with a voltmeter.
Good luck with this, I had the same problem and wound up rewiring the entire engine.
My boat is a more current than yours so I am only speaking of my boat with a Yanmar .
Fair Winds
Eric
SM 376

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 5:38 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
To: amelyachtowners@...

> Danny, The intermittent starting problem I have had for months.
> The engine would do nothing or it would start right up normally.
> I switched out batteries , no jumper . I think it is most likely
> to be a poor connection somewhere and probably on the negative
> side. Thats where I will start , going out to the boat now to
> get started. Good to hear from you , say Hi ! to Yvonne .
> Thanks,
> Pat SM#123
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
> To: amelyachtowners 
> Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 3:48 pm
> Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Pat,
> I spin through the posts deleting after read but I believe you
> said the motors start sometimes, sometimes not. When they start
> do they spin as per normal or groan. Batteries dont fail and
> then not fail. You've tried another battery with no change which
> gives a pretty positive lead to it not being battery. Was that
> by jumper lead or by switching via terminals? The symptoms sound
> like a bad connection. Not the starting switch because there are
> separate for each engine. It has to be a common connection.
> Battery terminals a good starting point
> Regards
> Danny
> SM 299 Ocean Pearl
>
> On 26 July 2017 at 04:36 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@...
> [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
>
>
> Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to
> do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it
> being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both
> are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is ,
> there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or
> the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad
> connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know,
> answer , very little.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Pat
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
> To: amelyachtowners
> Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
> Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Pat,
>
> Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load
> tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store
> for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the
> battery has enough oomph left in it.
>
>
>
> With best regards,
>
> Mark
>
> Skipper
> Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
> Currently cruising - Grenada
> www.creampuff.us
>
>
>
> From: amelyachtowners@...
> [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
> To: amelyachtowners@...
> Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
>
>
>
>
>
> John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start
> , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I
> can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is
> hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button
> buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
>
> Thanks ,Pat
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
> To: amelyachtowners
> Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
>
>
>
>
> Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one
> common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
>
> Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a
> couple of thoughts:
>
>
>
> 1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is
> not making good contact. I assume you are speaking of the
> battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at
> the helm. A high resistance connection could cause the
> symptoms of OK voltage without load, but when you try to start
> there is not enough current to do anything. ;
>
>
>
> 2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage
> but not have capacity to start the engines. When you said after
> attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8, was that while
> starting or after the attempts are completed?
>
>
>
> If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a
> lot of drain on the battery. That 11.8 after an attempt would
> then point me toward a bad battery. But you already tried a
> different battery. Are you sure all the batteries tried are
> good and properly charged?
>
>
>
> I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take
> a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything
> that makes sense for these symptoms.
>
>
>
> Regards, John
>
>
>
> John Clark
>
> SV Annie SM 37
>
> Charleston SC
>
>
>
> ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
>
> For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my
> Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few
> times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental
> or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine
> would not start and I discovered that the generator would not
> start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a
> year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an
> elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail
> to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking
> forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days.
> Below is what I determined last night ;
>
> Neither engine will start.
>
> Battery shows 12.6 V
>
> Have 12.6 V at both solenoids
>
> Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
>
> When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start
> and fan and gauges go dead.
>
> After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
>
> After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
>
> Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm
> button pushed , nothing
>
> I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things
> happen< /div>
>
> Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires
> , don't know which does what.
>
> The glow plug lite does not even come on.
>
> fuse is good on back side of Gen.
>
> Solenoids don't click
>
> Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times
> , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
>
>
>
> It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is
> affecting both engines
>
> My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is
> momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
>
> Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
>
> Do both engines share the same ground?
>
> To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on
> the back of the battery switches between the positive and
> negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would
> be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Isolated ground of my Yankar 4jh3hte #376 Kimberlite

eric freedman
 


Re: Isolated ground of my Yankar 4jh3hte #376 Kimberlite

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Eric,

I want to buy spare diods. Please give me information on the diods that are on the coil wire of the Valeo ground breaking solenoid.

Vladimir

SM # 345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, The intermittent starting problem I have had for months. The engine would do nothing or it would start right up normally. I switched out batteries , no jumper . I think it is most likely to be a poor connection somewhere and probably on the negative side. Thats where I will start , going out to the boat now to get started. Good to hear from you , say Hi ! to Yvonne .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 3:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
Hi Pat,
I spin through the posts deleting after read but I believe you said the motors start sometimes, sometimes not. When they start do they spin as per normal or groan. Batteries dont fail and then not fail. You've tried another battery with no change which gives a pretty positive lead to it not being battery.  Was that by jumper lead or by switching via terminals? The symptoms sound like a bad connection. Not the starting switch because there are separate for each engine. It has to be a common connection. Battery terminals a good starting point
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 26 July 2017 at 04:36 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.

Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.   ;
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 
 
 
 
 

 


Selecting the proper Genoa for a Super Maramu

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Patrick McAneny
 

Ken, I am going out to the boat now and am going to start cleaning all the terminals on the battery switches. I need to eliminate the most obvious corrosion . I have not disconnected the positive from the engine , I can do that easy enough.
Thanks
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Powers sailingaquarius@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 1:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
Just because you get 12.6 volts at a point, does not mean everything is OK.  If your terminals are dirty, you can get 12.6 volts no problem, but when you try to get some current through those dirty terminals you will just hear a little spark....  

Sounds like something is shorting out your system when you try to start.  

Starter motor, and the solenoid would be the two pieces I would look at.

Question - if you disconnect all power to the Volvo, can y ou start your Genset.




On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 9:36 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.

Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.  
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: leaking 3 way valve in dessalator watermaker prefilter

greatketch@...
 

Thomas,

Our system is older, and does not have an automated fresh water flush, I don't know enough about that system to give advice.  We flush our system with fresh water manually for three minutes only if we are not going to be using it for more than two days.  Our normal routine is to make water every day. 

I can not imagine any operating tricks that would "fix" the leaking valve... but other people might be more creative than I am!

If your pump output is low, you can get the pressure up but not make as much water as you should.  This can happen if one check valve in the pump is bad, basically taking one piston out of service. If at all possible, measure the rate of the output brine flow. Directing the hose into a bucket with a timer is good enough. In very round numbers, it should be 10X the product water flow.  

If you expect 100 l/hr of product water, and you are getting 50, and you saw 500 liters/hour of brine flow I'd suspect the pump or salt water supply.  If you had 1000 liters/hour or more brine flow, I'd suspect clogged membranes.

If you find lower than normal brine flow, a mechanical repair of the pump is likely required.  If the membrane is clogged, flushing with the right cleaning solution might restore at least some of the lost capacity.

Bill Kinney


---In amelyachtowners@..., <svgarulfo@...> wrote :


Hi Bill, 

Thanks for your reply. Agreed, nothing urgent at this point, and I can run the system ok and not use the automated reverse flush part of the shutdown. According to the manual, that is by switching off the watermaker first and then lower the pressure with the regulatring valve. I understand you would follow the same procedure?

I wouldn't try to fix the valve, but I was enquiring whether it was plausible it would fail by just using it once and I suppose failure in any of the three modes you describe could be triggered that way. Alternatively, and as I read from a previous thread about leaking 3 way valves, I was looking for reports of people who experienced fixing the issue by operating the valve somehow differently. I accept there might be none.


On the subject of performance, i can see the device produces 50L/h, so 50% of nominal capacity, with 23C waters temp, with 530h history. That looks pretty poor to me. No leaks to report, pressure gauge stable in the green zone, output water quality is acceptable to taste, just less volume than expected. This is both running 24V and 230V motors. I looked for air in the filter and I can only see a few bubbles dancing around. I tried to purge them as per Bill Rouse's method but can't get 100% rid of them. I hope that's ok?
Is that symptomatic of anything in particular?

Thanks 
Thomas

Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
anchored near Hyeres, France 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Selecting the proper Genoa for a Super Maramu

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ken,

Before you do anything why don't you get a quote from two people who will ship anywhere in the world:
  1. David Benjamin yahoo.com> - David owns Island Planet sails and up until a few years ago, owned an Amel. He is also a member of this Group.
  2. Tahsin Oge ogemar.com> - I met Tahsin in Turkey and toured his modern and very large sail loft in Izmir. Tahsin was the EU producer for North Sails until he decided to create his own brand. He also makes Hood Sails and at least one other brand. I bought all 3 sails from Tahsin.
And before you start resizing the Genoa, remember your Super Maramu has a twin pole downwind system. If I were you, I would use the exact size Amel originally used. David knows the size and Tahsin has the original Genoa which was installed by Amel on #387.

I bought triradial cut Hydranet from Tahsin. Make sure that you understand all of the differing specifications when ordering a sail...I am sure that you do, but unless you specify all of the specifications, they may not necessarily be included with your new sail. Personally, I would not use Dacron, regardless of the weave or branded name because all dacron fiber will stretch. But if cost is a factor, Dacron is cheaper than Hydranet. Also, my personal opinion is that these special branded dacron sails is more an attempt of one sailmaker to make it difficult to compare prices, than it is beneficial to you...just my opinion.

I hope my little editorial helps you in your search.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550




















Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat,

I spin through the posts deleting after read but I believe you said the motors start sometimes, sometimes not. When they start do they spin as per normal or groan. Batteries dont fail and then not fail. You've tried another battery with no change which gives a pretty positive lead to it not being battery.  Was that by jumper lead or by switching via terminals? The symptoms sound like a bad connection. Not the starting switch because there are separate for each engine. It has to be a common connection. Battery terminals a good starting point

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 26 July 2017 at 04:36 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.


Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.  
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 
 
 
 

 


 


Selecting the proper Genoa for a Super Maramu

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

Hello all,

Any information is appreciated.

I am in the process of purchasing a new Genoa for Aquarius, SM#262, and now found that I don't have all the information required to choose the proper sail.

I heard that the SM Genoa supplied by Amel was a 155.

I was leaning toward a 130 with 10.11 oz Challenge Warp Drive, but now after thinking a bit more maybe going to a 9 oz 140.

Need help!  We are going through the Panama canal and sailing through the South Pacific next season, and want to get the correct sail now...

Thanks again for any help.

Ken Powers
SM #262
AQUARIUS
www.sailingaquarius.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engines not starting

Mark Erdos
 

Ah, yes o wise one

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engines not starting

 

 

Mark,

 

And. the 2 main battery switches.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

Admiral, Texas Navy

Commander Emeritus

Amel School www.amelschool.com

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 9:01 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If neither the engine or the genset start and have the same symptoms, the common denominator is the start battery.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 9:04 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engines not starting

 

 

For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the engine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;

Neither engine will start.

Battery shows 12.6 V

Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   

Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches

When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.

After that Voltage only measures 11. 8

After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly

Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing

I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen

Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.

The glow plug lite does not even come on.

fuse is good on back side of Gen.

Solenoids don't click

Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.

 

It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 

My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?

Both engines would not share this switch , would they.

Do both engines share the same ground?

To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 

 

Any thoughts on what to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

Just because you get 12.6 volts at a point, does not mean everything is OK.  If your terminals are dirty, you can get 12.6 volts no problem, but when you try to get some current through those dirty terminals you will just hear a little spark....  

Sounds like something is shorting out your system when you try to start.  

Starter motor, and the solenoid would be the two pieces I would look at.

Question - if you disconnect all power to the Volvo, can you start your Genset.




On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 9:36 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.

Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.  
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Hydraulic Linear Drive.

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

Hello Jean-Pierre,

Hope you are well, and looking forward to meet up again sometime soon.  Aquarius is currently on the hard in Trinidad, and we will be going to Panama November.  Probably going to sail the San Blasé Islands for a few months then Jan or Feb 2018 go through the canal.  Hope to see you again soon!!!!

All the best,

Ken and Zivile


On Saturday, July 22, 2017 8:49 AM, "pitugolf@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello Jean-Pierre (Eleuthera)

could you kindly explain me more you coment:


" However, the installation of a hydraulic drive in an early SM enforces a regime of “remove the rudder bellcrank” to verify and tighten the rudder shaft nylon nut because one cannot get the tool under the modified bellcrank to tighten it while at sea.  (Lose all steering if done… think of putting the boat in “irons” before removing the bellcrank.  Hence the “regime" described earlier…."

Thank you in advance,

Maria



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I ordered a load tester today, something I have meant to do for a long time. I switched out batteries to eliminate it being the battery , but who knows , maybe with my luck , both are bad. I hope so , but that would be too easy. The thing is , there doesn't seem to be enough power to excite the gauges or the alarm buzzer or the glow plug light. Seems like a bad connection on the neg. side somewhere, but what do I know, answer , very little.

Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 10:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting

 
Pat,
 
Test the battery with a load tester. If you do not have a load tester you can take the battery to any automotive parts store for testing. Measuring the voltage will not tell you if the battery has enough oomph left in it.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Grenada
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
 
John,The 11.8v was after turning the key in an attempt to start , but nothing happens not even a click from the solenoid . I can't understand what would bleed off the voltage , nothing is hot to the touch. Even the gauges don't move or alarm button buzz. On the generator the glow plug doesn't light up.
Thanks ,Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jul 25, 2017 9:29 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engines not starting
 
Not sure which model you have but on my SM 37 there is one common starting battery for both the generator and motor.
  Reaching back to my days tinkering with old cars I have a couple of thoughts:
 
1. wiggling a switch then things work sounds like the switch is not making good contact.  I assume you are speaking of the battery disconnect switch, not the ignition/starter switch at the helm.    A high resistance connection could cause the symptoms of OK voltage without load,  but when you try to start there  is not enough current to do anything.  
 
2. If the battery is failing it might be able to show OK voltage but not have capacity to start the engines.  When you said after attempting to start the voltage measures 11.8,  was that while starting or after the attempts are completed?   
 
 If the starter motors don't fire there shouldn't have been a lot of drain on the battery.  That 11.8 after an attempt would then point me toward a bad battery.  But you already tried a different battery.  Are you sure all the batteries tried are good and properly charged?  
 
I am doing some work in the engine room later today, I will take a look at my starting circuit and let you know if I see anything that makes sense for these symptoms.
 
  Regards,  John
 
John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Charleston SC


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :
For some time I have had an intermittent probably starting my Volvo engine , I would turn the battery switch on and off a few times and it would start . I don't know if that was coincidental or not. Last night we went out to go for a sail and the eng ine would not start and I discovered that the generator would not start either. I would trouble shoot this more myself , but a year ago and reconfirmed a week ago , I agreed to take an elderly couple and their family out on my boat for a sunset sail to celebrate their 50 th Anniversary , they are really looking forward to it and so need to solve this issue within five days. Below is what I determined last night ;
Neither engine will start.
Battery shows 12.6 V
Have 12.6 V at both solenoids   
Have 12.6 V at battery wires on back side of battery switches
When I turn the key , the fan comes on , turn the key to start and fan and gauges go dead.
After that Voltage only measures 11. 8
After short time , turn key and fan runs very slowly
Turn key again , fan does not run , gauges dead , even alarm button pushed , nothing
I switched wires to another 12v house battery , same things happen< /div>
Generator switch has 12.6 V at the terminals , five white wires , don't know which does what.
The glow plug lite does not even come on.
fuse is good on back side of Gen.
Solenoids don't click
Since battery voltage went down after key is turned a few times , I checked for heat on starter & solenoid , both cool to touch.
 
It seems logical that whatever the problem is , that it is affecting both engines 
My understanding is that when the key is turned , the ground is momentarily connected by a switch , where is this switch located ?
Both engines would not share this switch , would they.
Do both engines share the same ground?
To me it seems like corrosion on a terminal , but I get 12.6 on the back of the battery switches between the positive and negative wires , from there I have 12.6 at the solenoids 
 
Any thoughts on wh at to check or what may be my problem would be appreciated.
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: leaking 3 way valve in dessalator watermaker prefilter

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi Bill, 

Thanks for your reply. Agreed, nothing urgent at this point, and I can run the system ok and not use the automated reverse flush part of the shutdown. According to the manual, that is by switching off the watermaker first and then lower the pressure with the regulatring valve. I understand you would follow the same procedure?

I wouldn't try to fix the valve, but I was enquiring whether it was plausible it would fail by just using it once and I suppose failure in any of the three modes you describe could be triggered that way. Alternatively, and as I read from a previous thread about leaking 3 way valves, I was looking for reports of people who experienced fixing the issue by operating the valve somehow differently. I accept there might be none.


On the subject of performance, i can see the device produces 50L/h, so 50% of nominal capacity, with 23C waters temp, with 530h history. That looks pretty poor to me. No leaks to report, pressure gauge stable in the green zone, output water quality is acceptable to taste, just less volume than expected. This is both running 24V and 230V motors. I looked for air in the filter and I can only see a few bubbles dancing around. I tried to purge them as per Bill Rouse's method but can't get 100% rid of them. I hope that's ok?
Is that symptomatic of anything in particular?

Thanks 
Thomas

Garulfo
Amel 54 #122
anchored near Hyeres, France 


On Tue, 25 Jul 2017 at 16:58, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I also have a 2-way valve in my fresh water flush line for the watermaker. (actually two...) that is closed all the time unless I am actually flushing with fresh water.  I might very well have a leaking 3-way valve, and will never know...


I am assuming if you close the 2-way valve in your freshwater flush line the leaking 3-way valve would then have no symptoms.  So my first reaction is, what's to fix? But... if you regularly flush the watermaker and the main seachest seacock stays closed, you could eventually overfill the raw water circuit and flood engine exhaust, so a fix might be a good idea anyway.

There are only three failure modes I can think of for this valve: corrosion of the body, corrosion of the ball, or failure of the seats.  None of these are an easy fix. The valve has shown itself prone to failure, new valves are not very expensive.  Why even try to fix?

Three-way valves like this should not fail this way.  If I ever need to replace mine, I would not consider replacing it "in-kind", but with a more reliable valve. Bronze, 3-way, L-port, ball valves with teflon seats in an appropriate size are easily available.  With a stainless ball and stainless handle, and you're all set for less than US$100.  It will likely last longer than the hull.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Glouchester, Mass

--
GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Côte d'azur, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Survey

Volkmann, Uwe <volkmann@...>
 

Thanks for helping!

DR. UWE V. VOLKMANN
Amel Maramu Kerbian

Kommt von mobilem Gerät, bitte entschuldigen Sie mögliche Fehler!

Mobile Typing...Faults possible... Sorry!


Am 25. Jul. 2017 um 17:32 schrieb Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

The best surveyor for Amel is Olivier Beaute on this group.

Peter

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 25 Jul 2017, at 14:47, volkmann@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, are there any good suryeyors gor Amel SM in northern Europe? What is the difference of the Red Line models? Thank you in advance 


Uwe

Amel Maramu

SY Kerbian


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Survey

Peter Forbes
 

The best surveyor for Amel is Olivier Beaute on this group.

Peter

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 25 Jul 2017, at 14:47, volkmann@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, are there any good suryeyors gor Amel SM in northern Europe? What is the difference of the Red Line models? Thank you in advance 


Uwe

Amel Maramu

SY Kerbian


Re: leaking 3 way valve in desalator prefilter

greatketch@...
 

I also have a 2-way valve in my fresh water flush line for the watermaker. (actually two...) that is closed all the time unless I am actually flushing with fresh water.  I might very well have a leaking 3-way valve, and will never know...

I am assuming if you close the 2-way valve in your freshwater flush line the leaking 3-way valve would then have no symptoms.  So my first reaction is, what's to fix? But... if you regularly flush the watermaker and the main seachest seacock stays closed, you could eventually overfill the raw water circuit and flood engine exhaust, so a fix might be a good idea anyway.

There are only three failure modes I can think of for this valve: corrosion of the body, corrosion of the ball, or failure of the seats.  None of these are an easy fix. The valve has shown itself prone to failure, new valves are not very expensive.  Why even try to fix?

Three-way valves like this should not fail this way.  If I ever need to replace mine, I would not consider replacing it "in-kind", but with a more reliable valve. Bronze, 3-way, L-port, ball valves with teflon seats in an appropriate size are easily available.  With a stainless ball and stainless handle, and you're all set for less than US$100.  It will likely last longer than the hull.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Glouchester, Mass