Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low pressure pump for the 160 liter Watermaker
Hi guys
There are quite a few different March pumps. You need to be careful to specify the flow and pressure requirements before deciding which one to buy. Remember they are centrifugal pumps not positive displacement pumps so there are direct relationships between flow and pressure on both in flow and outflow. The March website has lots of info and flow / pressure graphs to help you work out which one is best for your specific application. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Down wind sail configuration
smiles bernard
Hello again The maramu 46 we have bought doesn't have the original furling system. It has a recently added frofurl ndec 430 I pick up the boat on tues 😎 but believe it has a twin luff grove So parhaps my only option will be to add a second genoa halyard and hoist the second sail on the second luff groove That way least I'll be able to raise and lower each sail independently. The original mouse plus 3 luff groove system looks brilliant ! I wonder if I could replace the foil and swivel? Is this the kind of thing amel might still supply or does anyone know the manufacturer of the amel furling system? Many thanks Miles
On 17 Aug 2017, at 19:10, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low pressure pump for the 160 liter Watermaker
Hi Dean, I bought the March pump from Tom Martland at "flagshipmarine.com" in Florida USA. I found Tom's price cheaper than the March distributors. The unit was the: March magnetic pump 510gph 220v - 230v, 50hz/60hz with barbs and mounting plate. You need to make sure Tom supplies this one and not the normal US 110v unit. Fitting was no problem, put some rubber gasket under the mounting plate to reduce any vibration. When I was in Hyeres they did not have the normal Amel replacement pump in stock so I found this March pump in USA. I had it shipped to Marseille in a few days. My original pump was sticking and we pulled it apart in Hyeres and I thought that we had freed it up but it went back to getting stuck straight away. I also bought from Tom a 12v March magnetic pump to replace my Sureflow refrigeration pump. I have not done this yet. Hope this helps. Best Regards Barry and Penny "Lady Penelope II' Amel 54 # 17 Monastir, Tunisia
On Thursday, August 17, 2017 4:21 PM, "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote: I was wondering if the March pump could also be substituted for the Calpeda LP pump. The March pump seems t have a very high flow rate. Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: winter liveaboard?
eric freedman
I was speaking about the power to our Amels from the 50 amp 220 volt 60 cycle outlet on the dock pedestal. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 10:11 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: winter liveaboard?
I thought the USA was 110 volt?? Danny
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: winter liveaboard?
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
I thought the USA was 110 volt?? Danny
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: winter liveaboard?
eric freedman
Ryan, Here in the USA you have 60 cycle 220-240 volts in all the outlets. The water heater is a resistive device and doesn’t really care what frequency the electric is. The AC unit and chargers work on 50/60.
The dishwasher, Watermaker , and Washing Machine all work ONLY on 50 hz. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 1:14 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: winter liveaboard?
Those are good ideas. I used to have one of those Eva-Dry units and they are indeed a joke. I had it for the summer though, not the winter. It tends to be very dry here once the temperature goes below freezing. My old boat had an Espar (Eberspacher), my new one does not. That goes a long way towards keeping the boat dry because it exchanges air with the outside. I think I'm going to try to heat with electric only this year rather than install one of those systems. I also do not have a 50Hz inverter, but I'm sure I can find a similar dehumidifier that works at 60Hz. I may also add a 50Hz inverter so I can run the washing machine. Does anyone have experience separating out the electrical system so some things run on the inverter and some things don't? Or did you just wire it right into the main breaker (in which case how do you run the hot water heater)?
Thanks, Ryan
On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 12:45 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
For two people living permanently on am SM2K, we find in cool climates you need the following to avoid damage from condensation arising from high humidity.
1. Always run the kitchen exhaust fan while using propane. 2. Run at least two dehumidifiers permanently. We have the Eva-Dry EDV-2200 with peltier technology, which is a bit of a joke and is not sufficient if people are living on the boat. Don't recommend it. We also have the DeLonghi DNC 65 with desiccant technology, highly recommended for low power use averaging about 50W, low noise, small size, and ability to keep dehumidifying even at low ambient temps when we are out and about. Runs in the U.S. if you run it from your 50Hz inverter. 3. Run the Eberspächer diesel heater at least once a day and for at least one hour. 4. On any days with low ambient humidity, open all hatches and run fans. 5. Install humidity monitors throughout the boat, and especially in the problem area on the berth above the batteries. About $40 total. 6. Open cabinet doors and rotate stored clothes as needed.
Cheers,
Peregrinus SM2K N. 350 En route, Thermopylae to Skiathos
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Re: Base for Jabsco Quiet Flush head Brojen
greatketch@...
I have not had to solve that particular problem, but it sounds like a rivnut might be an answer instead of a molly-bolt
Another creative solution, might be to get a sheet of 3/8" thick G10. Epoxy it down on top of the existing fiberglass base. If you go slow and are very careful with a sharp new tap you can drill and tap it. It is strong enough to hold threads, and is non-corroding. I have used it a lot as backing plates. It usually comes in a light green color that is not horrible to the eye. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Gloucester, Mass
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Kent, My thoughts are: Is the tub empty? Belt? Motor? Control panel? Fill level switch? Replace it because it is 20 years old? But, I cannot recommend which of the above to start with. CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Aug 17, 2017 19:26, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Intermittent A/C Seawater Pump
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Ryan, Don't get your panties twisted. Yes, I made a typo. It is microfarads, but it is also printed on the capacitor. CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Aug 17, 2017 18:35, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!
Anyone have any thoughts on a Thompson Australe washer and dryer that doesn't spin anymore? Kent Robertson S/V Kristy SM 243
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Intermittent A/C Seawater Pump
Ryan Meador
I'm confused, you two seem to be agreeing and yet you're saying different things. mF and µF differ by a factor of 1000! m is the metric prefix for milli, i.e. 1/1,000. µ (often written u because it's easier to type) is the metric prefix for micro, i.e. 1/1,000,000. So which is it? Ryan SM 233 Iteration Boston, USA
On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 5:51 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Base for Jabsco Quiet Flush head Brojen
Hi all.
On my last passage, the base of my foreword Quiet Flush Jabsco head broke. Jabsco has changed the base and the old ones are no longer available. The new base doesn't have the outboard bolt holes to bolt it to the fiberglass pan, only 3 bolt holes on the perimeter of the base. The fore and aft holes line up with the old ones. The inboard hole is barely on the edge of the flat part of the cabin sole, I drilled it but found no backing plate to tap. There is no access without removing the fiberglass shower enclosure. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the fiberglass under the head, and epoxying a piece of stainless underneath where the inboard hole is, then drilling and tapping it. I might be able to drill a big enough hole to insert a Molly bolt, but not sure I can get it to tighten up with nothing to hold it under the flooring. Has anyone else dealt with this problem? Solution? Is there any down side to cutting a fist-sized hole in the shower pan? I could move the head outboard a centimeter or so to give myself a flat surface to work with, no more as the macerator motor won't allow it. Any thoughts about that? Does anyone know the configuration of the backing plates under the original holes? Thank you for any thoughts. Kent SM243 Kristy St Michaels, MD, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Securing dinghy ashore
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Pat, In my experience, "Kryptonite" flex cable comes in several thicknesses and the one that is between 3/8" and 7/16" is difficult to cut. The thieves usually steal the best available dinghy with the easiest-to-cut cable. But, if you have a nice dinghy and/or a stupid crook, you may lose your dinghy no matter what you do. BTW, most crooks hate 4 cycle Hondas, and love 15+ hp 2 cycle engines. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 3:43 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Intermittent A/C Seawater Pump
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Dean, Yes, that 10 mf run capacitor is the most common failed part when the pump is doing what you say. Of course there could be other causes. Mark Erdos makes a very good point about the best replacement for the pump. CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 3:19 PM, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Securing dinghy ashore
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, I think all the locking methods only stop the impulse thefts. If someone sets out to steel a dinghy and comes equipped they're going to get one no matter what we do. One time we were at the Annapolis boat show. We came back and found ours shifted but tied up again. The Mercury 4 stroke outboard we had was a bit hard to start and if you got it wrong it had a kick back that would break your arm. Might have saved us a new dinghy and left a thief with a sore arm. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: Thomson Washer major water flooding !!!
Jose Venegas
Ian, It sounds very much like my problem. Fortunately I was able to see the flooding and stop the machine, which stop the flood of water. It thus may be that in my case the valve is OK but the water level sensor is faulty and the pump is not working. I just received a new pump and will take the thing apart this weekend.
In your case it seem the problem was intermittent but in my case it flooded twice. I will report my experience thanks a lot for sharing your experience. Jose SM2K 278 Boston
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Low pressure pump for the 160 liter Watermaker
eric freedman
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Securing dinghy ashore
Patrick McAneny
Thanks all, it sounds like everyone is using chain, which is heavy and can be cut , I was hoping someone had discovered a flexible cable that was difficult to cut . I guess its chain and keeping the insurance premiums paid.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks Again,
Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Thu, Aug 17, 2017 12:42 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Securing dinghy ashore Good morning Pat,
My solution is probably extreme. Last year I purchased small length of 3/8 chain and 1/2 chains to secure dinghy and bicycles. Then I realized the eyes on the dinghy to secure it are about 10 mm made of aluminium, so they will be cut quicker than the chain, so I use the 3/8 chain. I use the 1/2 inch chain to secure my bicycles (around cleat, pole, etc.). When people see its size of the chain they smile (many take pictures). I assume/hope that a thief (a lazy person to start with) will be discouraged of cutting off such chain and look for another victim. For the lock I use the German Made ABUS Granit which are Level 10 https://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Marine/Padlocks/GRANIT-37-55-S-038-S All the chains can also be linked together using shackles for my 2nd anchor. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 8/17/17, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Securing dinghy ashore To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Thursday, August 17, 2017, 7:46 AM The last time we were in the Caribbean I secured my dinghy with a cable that was encased in gray plastic . I think it was called Kryptonite , I was told by a friend and where I bought it , that it was very difficult to cut. Well I just cut it very easily with a very short handled cable cutter. When we go ashore , I like to think that are dinghy will be there when we get back . So does anyone have a suggestion as to the most secure way to secure a dinghy. Nothing is bullet proof , but I want to get as close as possible.Thanks, PatSM Shenanigans #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421 -- #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp #yiv2470719421hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp #yiv2470719421ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp .yiv2470719421ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp .yiv2470719421ad p { margin:0;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-mkp .yiv2470719421ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-sponsor #yiv2470719421ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv2470719421 #yiv2470719421ygrp-sponsor #yiv2470719421ygrp-lc #yiv2470719421hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} #yiv2470719421 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Re: Intermittent A/C Seawater Pump
Bill, are you referring to the 10uF (10 microFarad) cap which is in the box on top of the pump?
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Re: winter liveaboard?
greatketch@...
I lived on a boat for 15 years in cool San Francisco, which pales in comparison to winter in Boston. But I'll second the comment that moisture is the enemy. Every breath you take adds water to the air, and if that water is not removed, it will condense on the cold hull and cause no ends of problems.
The only way to get keep condensation from forming is to remove the water. Either with a dehumidifier or through ventilation--or both. The problem is the colder it gets, the less ventilation you want because it is... well... cold! I had a in-cabin heater, a Dickenson diesel fuel model that was great at keeping things warm and dry on a 40 foot boat down to 20 degrees or so. It would do the main saloon on a SM, but not the whole boat in Boston temperatures. It's also a major installation project. Some other simple hints...
Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Gloucester, Maine
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