Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main furler motor issue

Duane Siegfri
 

Thomas,

I had the same problem.  It was caused by the upper bearing in the gearbox being rusted to the point the drive shaft could not rotate.  

If you remove the motor and the gearbox, and you can't turn the shaft the motor turns, then it's likely the bearing.  It's fairly easy to replace.  Take the cover plates off both sides and you'll find an oil seal and a bearing below each cover plate...these will need to be replaced.

There have been several discussions on when to replace the large bronze gear, have a look at those as well.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


"Permanent" on 12v/24v

Gary Wells
 

Greetings!

As I've been engrossed in the bowl-of-spaghetti called "wiring" it has been a true learning/labeling/discovering/pondering process.
I've pulled a lot of 'deadwood' wiring out, upgraded and updated some of the not-so-stellar runs and connections and made a couple of (what I think are) improvements to the back-and-forth wire runs I've discovered.
The wire Chase's were all stuffed soooo tightly, and when the old equipment came out (years ago, I guess) the cabling was just left in place. It's all good now,but I have a question about the three "Sailor" 24v-to-12v converters.
They appeared to be routed through one of the three breakers in the wet locker area (on the aft wall of the nav station) but one is marked "Permanent" which would seem to indicate it's 'hot' all the time.
Except for keeping data in the CD Player, is there a compelling reason this converter could not be switched off as well? I mean it probably draws next to nothing (all three of them combined are less than one amp when idle) but every quarter of an amp counts :)
As near as I can tell, all the 12v equipment (VHF, Autohelm, B&G computer, Chain Counter, AIS and stereo system) would not suffer from a switchable supply.
Is there something aboard, either 24v or 12v, that definitely requires permanent power?
Thanks in advance. It's been a heck of a project so far .. started out chasing a lost GPS signal and have been rewiring for two weeks now. The wire-tie folks love me :)

Gary W.
S/V Adagio
Marmaris, Turkey


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main furler motor issue

Peter Forbes
 

Garulfo,

Try The brushes on the motor - just unscrew the little black retainers and clean them and replace - be careful the brushes are spring loaded. You have to remove the motor cover to access the brush retainers.

Good luck

Peter
Amel 54. #035
Grenada


On 15 Oct 2017, at 08:42, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok. 
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the solenoid. 
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers there for "boom", etc).

Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious with little local help at hand. 

Thanks 

Fair winds

Thomas 
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Tangier, Morocco 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main furler motor issue

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Thomas;
 
Our furler motor stopped working within a few months of purchasing Kokomo. When we wanted to furl the main in a 25 Knot Breeze in Turkey, the furler would not work and we had to disengage the motor and manually furl the main.
 
We removed the motor and as we were removing it about a cup of water drained out of the motor. We sent it for service but were told that the motor was unrepeatable. We had to order a new motor from Amel. In discussing the issue with Amel, we were told that the upper seal of the motor dries out after a few years and water gets into the motor, so the seals should be changed every two years. We purchased new seals from Amel and is now a part of our maintenance schedule to change out the seals.
 
One more item to add to the ever expanding list of routine maintenance items.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 12:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main furler motor issue

 

Hi all,

The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok. 
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the solenoid. 
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers there for "boom", etc).

Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious with little local help at hand. 

Thanks 

Fair winds

Thomas 
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Tangier, Morocco 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main furler motor issue

Bob Sarff <bob.sarff@...>
 

I'd check the brushes in the motor first.   That is the issue I've had in the past.  It can usually be fixed by gently tapping on the end of the Brush and/ or removing it and cleaning it.

Good luck

On Oct 15, 2017, at 7:42 PM, SV Garulfo svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok. 
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the solenoid. 
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers there for "boom", etc).

Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious with little local help at hand. 

Thanks 

Fair winds

Thomas 
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Tangier, Morocco 


Main furler motor issue

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok. 
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the solenoid. 
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers there for "boom", etc).

Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious with little local help at hand. 

Thanks 

Fair winds

Thomas 
Garulfo 
Amel 54 #122
Tangier, Morocco 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I guess we had a special Super Maramu. Ours came, standard, with 2 Jabsco "Not-So-Quiet-Flush" toilets. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Oct 14, 2017 09:38, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Agree,

I have had that experience also...either a bad batch or they were distorted because of packaging/ packing...
In any event you could see a big gap...and of course, they didn't work.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Joel, 

I am waiting for your book. 

Great advice. It seems to me that most of the people that I know who got in trouble on a passage we're either, sailing to a calendar appointment, departing with "friends," or bored with where they were.  

Study the situation well and don't let anything or anyone pressure your decision. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Oct 14, 2017 07:51, "'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Amel Folks. I sold Chuck and Kim their boat but I will respond to all so I can pass along some thoughts that will form separate chapters in the book about cruising that I will probably never find the time to write.

 

The common element running through all the good advice given by all respondents was time. Consider that for a moment.

 

“ When you buy a power boat, throw away your watch. When you buy a sailboat, throw away your calendar.” This should be considered along with, “ The two most important things to have aboard any vessel are good, well maintained ground tackle and a well-developed sense of fear.”

 

It can be dangerous to commit to a specific time period to complete a passage, no matter how short or seemingly ‘easy’ the journey may be.

 

If that little voice starts screaming at you as you prepare to depart, gentlemen, ( you know, the one that encourages you to stop and make sure of where you presently are when lost  ) listen to it carefully. If you are not sure of being able to reasonably clear all ‘no-go’ concerns before casting off, don’t. Start the voyage with confidence so you don’t finish it with fear.

 

And, like all who proffer advice, there have been times when I regretted not listening to my own.

 

Have fun with your Amel.

 

Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

  

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 11:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

 

 

Hi All,

I know many of you have traveled North along the Florida coast during various parts of the year. A little advice requested. I will be moving my boat from Ft. Lauderdale to Brunswick, GA. We will be moving it in early December. That brings the prospect of North winds against the Gulf Stream (December pilot charts and conventional wisdom seem to indicate this). Is there a general consensus as to a straight shot (~2.5 days). Daily hops (~5-6 days) or a combination depending on 3-5 day forecasts. Just don't want to get caught out at night in a bad blow and have to find shelter in a skinny poorly marked inlet. This stretch is unfamiliar to me. I researched acceptable inlets so there are a number to choose from. 

 

Thanks for your time.

 

Chuck & Kim

s/v Joy #388



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Which engine mount model was used on SM's with Volvo engines [1 Attachment]

Mike Ondra
 

Hello Willem,

This is a Vetus Hydraulic Dampened Engine Mount. We purchased these in 2016 from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI, USA for $169 each.

Mike Ondra

ALETES   SM2000 #240

Rock Hall, MD Antigua bound November

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 6:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Which engine mount model was used on SM's with Volvo engines [1 Attachment]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from kavanga@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hi all,

 

The engine mounts between the steel cradle on which the engine and gearbox are mounted on my SM # 351 need te be replaced by new ones. After consulting Mr. Olivier Beaute it turned out that Amel used the older engine mounts, called 'Suspension hydro mounts for Perkins M80', also for a period of time after they changed from installing Volvo Penta  to Yanmar engines.

 

The importing company of Perkins in the Netherlands can't recognise these mounts from a photo that I also attach to this message.

 

Can anybody recognise this type of engine mount?

 

Thanks in advance for your reactions!

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM 2k #351 "Kavanga"

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] waterpressure

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Wolfgang;
 
We were in Marina Di Ragusa about 3 weeks ago for one night. We did not see you there, otherwise we would have stopped by to say hello, as we do with all Amels that we run into.
 
We set the pressure in our pressure tank using the following steps:
 
  1. Turn off the water pressure breaker.
  2. Turn on the faucet at the galley sink and let all water run and leave the faucet on.
  3. Pump the air in the pressure tank to about 1.4 Bar. This seems to give us the best combination of water pressure and pump cycle times.
  4. Shut off the faucet in the galley sink.
  5. Turn on the water pressure breaker.
I'm Assuming that your turn on and turn off settings on the water pressure switch is correct.
 
If you have to repeat this routine often, then there is an air leak in your pressure tank that could be either at the pressure valve stem or the bladder seal at the tank round stainless steel cap, or you could have a water leak into the bladder itself.
 
Respectfully;
 
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2017 4:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] waterpressure

 

Hello and greetings from Marina die Ragusa to all Amel,
I think my Reya waterpressure is starting to short and often -I think I have to refill the airpressure .Any suggestions how to start and how to controll .
I would switch the pump off, let water run until pressure 1bar ? And then give some air until 2bar?

Thank you for your help

Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 Marina di Ragusa /Sicily


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

James Alton
 

Dan,

   I would bet that a big part of the reason that your plywood still looks good has to do with the previous care that she received.  Have you asked Bill for his advice on this matter?

   My primary line of work since 1978 has been wooden boat restorations,  so I know a little about wood and the available products.  The Wood Life was once a powerful preservative when it contained pentachlorophenol.  Unfortunately the product was also very dangerous to the environment,  the applicator and the end user.  The last time I used Wood Life it had a zinc based preservative that proved to  be completely ineffective.  The Borates (such as the product sold as Timbor) are very effective in dealing with pests such as termites because they can completely penetrate even thick pcs.  Oil based preservatives that are only applied as a surface coating can only penetrate a short distance into the wood as has been proven by testing.  Borates are an effective fungicide  (do a search), and it is a fungus that causes what is called dry rot in wood which is really misleading  because moisture must be present for the decay to progress.  Borates allow what is basically paper to be used as insulation that can last for decades and not rot or be eaten by some critter.  They penetrate because they are water bourne and wood is all about moving water around.  Also when you apply an oil based product you will seal the surface that will prevent additional coatings from soaking in.  With the Borate you can reapply anytime with no surface prep.  While a preservative can certainly extend the life of Wood,  keeping the wood dry I think is still the most effective way to preserve it.  Insure that there are no holes or cracks in the deck lockers that could admit water and do all that you can to keep the humidity down in the anchor locker.

   But yes, Timbor might be hard to get in Trinidad but I am pretty sure that Amazon carries it.  Perhaps they could ship it to you.

Best of luck,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'dancarlson367@...' dancarlson367@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/14/17 18:41 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

 

Thanks for the advice James,  I agree with you regarding the linseed oil.  In the US there are some penetrating products like Wood Life and Thompson's Water Seal, or perhaps deck sealants.  But I'm not sure what I can find down in Trinidad or Grenada.  


Timbor (Borate) is more for pest control.  

After 14 years, the wood did not look too bad, but I'd like to help it survive another 10 or 20?

Thanks and regards, Dan Carlson, SM #387, sv BeBe. 


 

Dan,

  Odds are that any bare wood in the chain locker area will have at least some moisture in it which makes oil based coatings problematic.  If your desire is to try and prevent the wood from rotting a good choice might be a Borate based solution such as Timbor.  Timbor comes in a powder form which you mix with plain water, it has low toxicity to humans and almost no odour.  It also kills bugs albeit slowly.   There is another mixture that uses ethelyne glycol and Borate which is more effective but I don't like the smell of glycol and it is quite poisonous to humans and pets.  Linseed oil will turn black quickly in such a humid environment and I have serious doubts about it being a preservative.  Some of the older copper based preservatives were reasonably effective for a surface treatment but the penetration is poor.  The Borate on the other hand will over time will work i t's way completely through the wood.   The best place to apply the solution is to the edge end grain of the plywood if you can get in there with a spray bottle or something.

  If you can find a way to keep the humidity down in the locker, it will certainly extend the life of the plywood with or without a treatment.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'dancarlson367@...' dancarlson367@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/12/17 15:12 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

 

Has anyone used linseed oil or other wood preservative to treat their exposed wood above the chain locker?  


I inspected my wood on BeBe, SM387, before leaving for the summer and have it on my list to apply something protective when I return.

Dan Carlson


 

Bill, I had the same problem a few years ago. I cut the floors out leaving about an inch of tabbing all the way around. Then cut another piece of plywood to fit , resting on the tabbing. I epoxied the bottom of the plywood first , then installed it and glassed it into place . I glassed the entire surface , rather than simply painting it. It was nice meeting you in Annapolis.

Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Oct 11, 2017 11:59 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

 
The plywood soles of Harmonie's bow lockers are seriously rotten.  I was kind of surprised to see that the bottoms of these plywood sheets (i.e., the top of the chain locker) were "naked", without fiberglass sheathing.  I suspect exposure to the constant damp of the chain locker for 20 years was the start of the problem.

Replacement seems to be a fairly straight forward, fiberglass project, but if anyone else has had this problem and has any hints or "gothcha's" to watch for, I'd love to hear them!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] waterpressure

carcodespam@icloud.com <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Wolfgang,

I don't know the Reya water system. It is the AMFA two pump water pressure system?
There was an old threat here:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/conversations/messages/13906
Perhaps it helps?
I am at Marina Monastir with an Amel Sharki.

Gerhard


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the advice James,  I agree with you regarding the linseed oil.  In the US there are some penetrating products like Wood Life and Thompson's Water Seal, or perhaps deck sealants.  But I'm not sure what I can find down in Trinidad or Grenada.  

Timbor (Borate) is more for pest control.  

After 14 years, the wood did not look too bad, but I'd like to help it survive another 10 or 20?

Thanks and regards, Dan Carlson, SM #387, sv BeBe. 


On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 9:38 AM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Dan,

  Odds are that any bare wood in the chain locker area will have at least some moisture in it which makes oil based coatings problematic.  If your desire is to try and prevent the wood from rotting a good choice might be a Borate based solution such as Timbor.  Timbor comes in a powder form which you mix with plain water, it has low toxicity to humans and almost no odour.  It also kills bugs albeit slowly.   There is another mixture that uses ethelyne glycol and Borate which is more effective but I don't like the smell of glycol and it is quite poisonous to humans and pets.  Linseed oil will turn black quickly in such a humid environment and I have serious doubts about it being a preservative.  Some of the older copper based preservatives were reasonably effective for a surface treatment but the penetration is poor.  The Borate on the other hand will over time will work it's way completely through the wood.   The best place to apply the solution is to the edge end grain of the plywood if you can get in there with a spray bottle or something.

  If you can find a way to keep the humidity down in the locker, it will certainly extend the life of the plywood with or without a treatment.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'dancarlson367@...' dancarlson367@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: 10/12/17 15:12 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

 

Has anyone used linseed oil or other wood preservative to treat their exposed wood above the chain locker?  


I inspected my wood on BeBe, SM387, before leaving for the summer and have it on my list to apply something protective when I return.

Dan Carlson


 

Bill, I had the same problem a few years ago. I cut the floors out leaving about an inch of tabbing all the way around. Then cut another piece of plywood to fit , resting on the tabbing. I epoxied the bottom of the plywood first , then installed it and glassed it into place . I glassed the entire surface , rather than simply painting it. It was nice meeting you in Annapolis.

Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Oct 11, 2017 11:59 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

 
The plywood soles of Harmonie's bow lockers are seriously rotten.  I was kind of surprised to see that the bottoms of these plywood sheets (i.e., the top of the chain locker) were "naked", without fiberglass sheathing.  I suspect exposure to the constant damp of the chain locker for 20 years was the start of the problem.

Replacement seems to be a fairly straight forward, fiberglass project, but if anyone else has had this problem and has any hints or "gothcha's" to watch for, I'd love to hear them!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Keel bolts

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Dominique,  just to clarify.  I believe the nut you remove to replace the bonding cable is just securing the bonding strap to the keel bolt.  However, the nut securing the keel is below the bonding strap.   I replaced the bonding strap in Martinique in April.  The Amel team there will fabricate the strap and also I was able to borrow the 6 foot extension required to reach the bolt.  The bolt and the nuts looked pristine.

Best regards, Dan Carlson,  SM #387, sv BeBe



On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 8:04 PM, Dominique Guenot dominique_guenot@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

I am sailing a SM #374

I had to remove the keel bolt at the bottom of the bilge to install a new ground/bonding cable, the original one being broken.

I got pictures/process from Alban - Amel Martinique - and I have to build a tool to get there, but all in all it was not difficult and the bolt was pristine.

I can post Amel pictures if they are not already posted.


Dominique Guenot

s/v Viva

Currenly in Fiji

Call

You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

greatketch@...
 

Left over from an earlier project I have a small bolt of kevlar fabric...  might be the perfect reenforcing fiber for a locker that might have to hold heavy, pointy, things!  Just what everybody needs, an anchor locker that is literally bulletproof!

Might come in handy with Joel throwing around fulminate of mercury! 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

Alan Leslie
 

Agree,
I have had that experience also...either a bad batch or they were distorted because of packaging/ packing...
In any event you could see a big gap...and of course, they didn't work.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Going North in December

karkauai
 

Just wait for a weather window with southerly winds and Fly up the coast.  If time is an issue, you can stay West of the stream the whole way.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

karkauai
 

In my case the wood got wet because of an extra anchor I had stored there on a rubber mat.  The tip had worked its way through the mat and holed the surface of the floor.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

karkauai
 

I replaced mine after (duh) the rusted chain debacle.  Left the fiberglass tabs and laid new material over the tabs (I don't remember the name, but composite material with "sandwich" construction...very stiff and won't rot).  Then glassed around the edges.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Which engine mount model was used on SM's with Volvo engines [1 Attachment]

Thomas Peacock
 

We replaced the mounts on our TMD 22 about 18 months ago. I don’t have the exact part number, but here is an email from the group that helped guide us, I’m pretty sure it’s what we used:


I am going through the same exercise at present.I do have the Vetus catalog and at the time of writing, the four engine mounts appear to be that of part MITSTEUN. These are holding up the frame bed the engine (TMD22A) is attached to. There are two further mounts securing the drive unit, these appear to be either of the type, HY100 or HY150 or HY230. Incidentally, the four flexible couplings are part TYPE 6.
My question here at this point is: before I dismantle and replace the mounts above the "C" drive, am I required to provide some sort of support to prevent the unit from dropping out the bottom of the boat (sort of)?

Kind Regards.
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171

It took two of us the better part of a day to do it. The major pitfall is to make sure that the engine lines up correctly with the C-drive when you are done. Tolerances are pretty tight. 

Pat from Shenanigans was kind enough to lend us a 4x4, about 8 feet in length, which he had rigged up with a hook and wire cable that we then used with a hydraulic lift to raise the engine enough to get the old mounts out and new ones in.

I hope this is enough information to get you into trouble.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Rock Hall, Maryland
Departing for Antigua November 3







On Oct 13, 2017, at 6:56 AM, kavanga@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from kavanga@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hi all,


The engine mounts between the steel cradle on which the engine and gearbox are mounted on my SM # 351 need te be replaced by new ones. After consulting Mr. Olivier Beaute it turned out that Amel used the older engine mounts, called 'Suspension hydro mounts for Perkins M80', also for a period of time after they changed from installing Volvo Penta  to Yanmar engines.

The importing company of Perkins in the Netherlands can't recognise these mounts from a photo that I also attach to this message.

Can anybody recognise this type of engine mount?

Thanks in advance for your reactions!

Willem Kroes

SM 2k #351 "Kavanga"