Date   
Re: Companionway key

greatketch@...
 

I think that lockset is the ONLY part an Amel shares with a Beneteau...

Anybody can CUT the key, the problem as most people have found is the key blank itself is rather rare--at least in the US.  

After struggling to find one in Florida, Karen carried one while visiting her sister in Texas, walked into an old-fashioned locksmith shop. The guy took one look and said, "A Y2!  You don't see those too often."  He reached up to his board and pulled one down.  Presto!  We had the spare key we had been looking for.

I don't know what the difference between a "Yale Y2" and a "Y1-E ACE" is, if any...

We ordered a stash of 10 of the same blank from Amazon. They work in our lock.  If anybody else gets stuck, let us know and we'll drop one in the mail to you.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD
Heading South in a few days.



---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

For all our fellow SMers in South Florida area, we've looked everywhere and finally found a master key maker that duplicated our companionway key. ACE hardware off 17th St. In the Harbor Shoppes plaza. Ask for Bob and use key style Y1E-ACE. If anyone that is not in the area needs assistance, let me know and I'll be glad to help.


Ian Townsend

Loca Lola II 

SM153

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Is it correct that the bow thruster on the Super Maramu is 500 Amps?  And that is at 24 volts?  The thruster on my Maramu has a 100 amp breaker installed by Amel ( it has never tripped so I assume the normal draw is something below 100 amps)  and the voltage is only 12 volts so if my math is right it is about 1.5 hp which is good up to about 15 knots or so.   500 Amps at 24 volts would be about 16 hp?  Can you tell me the size of the original Amel breaker that is installed on the Super Maramu?

   Thanks for all of your past help with my Amel.  And to update you on the bow thruster leakage.  After replacing the seals as instructed, the thruster did not leak at all this season.    The thruster has also been 100% reliable thus far and is a tremendous asset IMO.

   I will consider adding some inline fuses to my boat as well just in case of a major short. 

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Oct 18, 2017, at 12:21 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Craig,

I agree with Alan's point and before we sold BeBe I had decided to place 6 of the Blue Sea 5191 MRBF Terminal Fuse Blocks with a removeable Blue Sea BS5185 (150A) amp fuse on each of the 6 positive battery pairs on the positive post  of the battery and connect the the positive lead for each pair to the newly installed terminal block fuse. My assumption was that the 500 amp bow thruster would not burn individual 150 amp fuses...I may be wrong on this. The fuses are available from 50 amps to 300 amps. Since the fuses are replaceable, I was going to buy extras.

Of course, I have not tested this, so I cannot say that it works and/or whether it is the best solution.

SM Furling Motor Brush Dimensions

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi,

can anyone please tell me the LENGTH of the carbon brushes for the Leroy furling motor when they are new? I am trying to source spare brushes locally or on eBay but do not have a new brush left to measure. Obviously I can measure the side dimensions from my worn ones. If possible can you please state the length in millimeters.

Incidentally, when the motor starts to play up I found that swapping the top and bottom brushes over the best way of restoring normal operations. Cleaning the brush surfaces and the commutator only worked for one or two cycles whereas swapping the brushes seemed to fix the problem more permanently.

With thanks

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Larnaca Cyprus

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Sueno only has 50 meters of 3/8” chain plus 40 meters of 7/8” Nylon spliced to the chain.  The 50 meters does not make a very large pile.  I have two of the approx. 30”  x 3/4” thick  closed cell foam play matts that I set on the deck just aft of the sub. bow locker on to which I pile the chain.  I don’t lay the chain out for rinsing because of the possible deck damage you are referring to and I don’t think that it is needed to get the salt off.  There are lots of holes in the piled up chain to spray water into and just a couple minutes  of rinsing seems to be all that is needed.  The chain seems to dry out quickly in the sun in the Med., the line is a lot slower taking a day.  I don’t bother to do this while I am cruising continuously but when I stop at a marina with water available this is one of the first tasks I attend to on the boat after getting things secured.  The chain locker also gets a quick rinse and a sponging of the bottom.  My drain is slightly above the bottom of the locker for some reason,  I was thinking of changing this so that all of the water would drain out of the locker without any bailing.  Is there an Amel reason for not having the drain at the very bottom of the locker?   This is the first boat that I have owned on which the “Things to change” list has gotten shorter the longer I have owned the boat and I am being careful not to alter anything unless I am really sure it should be done.  

   Thank you for telling me about the Super Maramus not having drains for the deck lockers,  I am surprised that I missed that point and am glad to be corrected.  In case it helps, I think that the drain arrangement on the Maramu was very intelligently done by Amel.  There are two drains of course, Port and Stb. with cowls over the holes facing aft.  But the really interesting part of the design is that a trough was created between the drains Port and Stb. so that any water that comes in one drain tends to stay in the trough and  run right across and out the other side.  I have never seen anything in the locker before other than some minor dampness in the areas of the drains so I think that the locker bottoms might also slope to the drains.  I have also not beat to windward in more than 6’ seas nor seen more than 43 knots on this boat so maybe in severe conditions the drains are more of a problem. I am considering a minor change in the drains.  It should be possible to create a baffle that would prevent the entry of any water into the lockers from the drains.  It would work a little like the Aqua lift muffler to block water flowing in and allow any water that did enter to flow out of the drain when the bow lifted.  The twist turns on my bow lockers don’t really apply any compression to the gasket.  Are the bow locker gaskets compressed on the Super Maramu?

   Keeping spaces, stuff salt free and dry on a cruising boat is a real challenge,  I completely agree with you.

Best,

James

On Oct 18, 2017, at 12:26 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

How do you lay out 100 meters of anchor chain on deck for rinsing and drying without beating the deck all to hell?  I haven't ever figured out a way to do that.

When I had a local fiberglass guy look at my anchor lockers to give a quote for the repair, the FIRST thing he wanted to do was add overboard drain holes to the lockers--which Super Maramus do not have.

I explained that on an Amel, if there is significant amounts of water coming into those lockers, something is wrong. Fix the problem (stop the water leaking in) rather than trying to fix the symptom (draining the water).  In a properly maintained bow locker on a Super Maramu, more water will come IN from an external drain than from any other source.

That doesn't mean the locker will be bone dry. Putting salty wet sails and lines in there will crea te a swamp-like environment, that's a different problem.  Keeping stuff as unsalty and as dry as possible is always a good thing--and much more challenging on a cruising boat than on a boat with a home port.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD
Leaving for warm climes in a few days.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway key

Porter McRoberts
 

Excellent Info!  thank you!

Porter

Porter McRoberts
S/V Ibis: Amel 54-#152
Ft. Lauderdale
www.fouribis.com
portermcroberts@...







On Oct 18, 2017, at 12:19 PM, smlocalola@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


For all our fellow SMers in South Florida area, we've looked everywhere and finally found a master key maker that duplicated our companionway key. ACE hardware off 17th St. In the Harbor Shoppes plaza. Ask for Bob and use key style Y1E-ACE. If anyone that is not in the area needs assistance, let me know and I'll be glad to help.


Ian Townsend

Loca Lola II 

SM153

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida



Companionway key

Ian Townsend
 

For all our fellow SMers in South Florida area, we've looked everywhere and finally found a master key maker that duplicated our companionway key. ACE hardware off 17th St. In the Harbor Shoppes plaza. Ask for Bob and use key style Y1E-ACE. If anyone that is not in the area needs assistance, let me know and I'll be glad to help.


Ian Townsend

Loca Lola II 

SM153

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

greatketch@...
 

James,

How do you lay out 100 meters of anchor chain on deck for rinsing and drying without beating the deck all to hell?  I haven't ever figured out a way to do that.

When I had a local fiberglass guy look at my anchor lockers to give a quote for the repair, the FIRST thing he wanted to do was add overboard drain holes to the lockers--which Super Maramus do not have.

I explained that on an Amel, if there is significant amounts of water coming into those lockers, something is wrong. Fix the problem (stop the water leaking in) rather than trying to fix the symptom (draining the water).  In a properly maintained bow locker on a Super Maramu, more water will come IN from an external drain than from any other source.

That doesn't mean the locker will be bone dry. Putting salty wet sails and lines in there will create a swamp-like environment, that's a different problem.  Keeping stuff as unsalty and as dry as possible is always a good thing--and much more challenging on a cruising boat than on a boat with a home port.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD
Leaving for warm climes in a few days.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

I agree with Alan's point and before we sold BeBe I had decided to place 6 of the Blue Sea 5191 MRBF Terminal Fuse Blocks with a removeable Blue Sea BS5185 (150A) amp fuse on each of the 6 positive battery pairs on the positive post  of the battery and connect the the positive lead for each pair to the newly installed terminal block fuse. My assumption was that the 500 amp bow thruster would not burn individual 150 amp fuses...I may be wrong on this. The fuses are available from 50 amps to 300 amps. Since the fuses are replaceable, I was going to buy extras.

Of course, I have not tested this, so I cannot say that it works and/or whether it is the best solution.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] NIKIMAT Illustrations & Parts for sale

carcodespam@icloud.com <no_reply@...>
 

Me too, although I own a Sharki only but some informations are even usefull for me.

Gerhard

New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
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File : /Onan Genset Information/Onan Parts Manual MDKAV.pdf
Uploaded by : mcgoverndenise <@DeniseSVCARA>
Description : Onan Parts Manual MDKAV (Spec A-C) 2014

You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,

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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Onan Genset Information/Service Manual-Onan-Mdkal.pdf
Uploaded by : mcgoverndenise <@DeniseSVCARA>
Description : ONAN Service Manual

You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Well, whatever spin you want to put on it, Alan's point that the battery cables should be protected close to the batteries, before they run through the boat and pose a fire hazard, is a good one. 
Cheers,
Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mike.k.johnson@...> wrote :

Agree entirely with Bill R’s comments.

We have never found any defect with Henri Amel’s basic concept or workmanship on the SM2K.

The only problems we have faced is where others have attempted ‘fixes’ to the original specifications.

Very best wishes 

Mike & Peta

Solitude
SM2K 461

On 17 Oct 2017, at 17:11, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Amen Brother!!!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 11:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

 

 

Bill K and Pat,

 

I would never say that "I think Bill K's point is that he thinks Capt. Henri's original engineering was poorly done and left an unsafe condition with unprotected long wire runs."

 

I would not say anything like that for numerous reasons. I think you know why.

 

Since Henri Amel is not here to defend his decisions made many years ago, I will remind everyone that at the time these decisions were made they very likely conformed 100% with the regulations in force in Europe and conformed with the thinking at the time. Let's compare Henri Amel's engineering decisions to General Motors at the same time:

- Disintegrating plastic bumper parts

- 4-6-8 engines with 100% failure

- Gasoline to Diesel conversions with almost 100% failure

- Reduction of plasticides in paint which caused paint to fade in 6 years

- Plastic transmission parts which caused a new industry to emerge to repair transmissions

- Fiero & Corvair (one name says it all)

- Foam headliners which fell in 5 years

- Chrome coated plastic which lasted about 2 years

on, and on, and on.

 

Can one improve on yesterday's technology? Certainly! 

Can one not understand decisions made yesterday? Absolutely!

Should one of us criticize Henri Amel? Never!

 

Anyway, this is my sermon for the month. I hope that you enjoyed it. 

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 8:39 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Pat, 

Yes, that's why I thought Alan's adding the Blue Sea fuses at the batteries sounded wise. Btw, in my house the distribution panel is smack in the middle of the house which reduces the total amount of wiring. It does, of course, have a main service breaker at the external drop wire, analogous to Alan's Blue Sea fuse. Then there are separate fused disconnects adjacent to heavy loads like the A/C and hot water heater in addition to breakers for those at the distribution panel.

 

I think Bill K's point is that he thinks Capt. Henri's original engineering was poorly done and left an unsafe condition with unprotected long wire runs. Alan seems to have a good solution.  And, while the new Amel centralized panel would meet Bill K's criterion, it is (likely) not fused close to the batteries, leaving the same risk of chafe and shorting in either the wires going to the panel or the wires going to the engine & generator starting motors.

 

I do suspect that the industry will continue to modernize with Distributed electric systems and have not overlooked the risk of shorting in the long runs, although I haven't looked into it enough to know exactly how it is addressed.

 

Craig SN68



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig , Your original post seemed to support locating breakers far from the power source , however this post seems to acknowledge the protection offered by locating breakers as close as possible to the battery bank. You even pointed to boat that burned up cables as a result of a short . Now I must be missing something . When I build a house , I have 220v/ 200 amps coming through a  wall , I locate the distribution panel as close as possible to where it comes thru the wall. The ele ctric immediately goes thru appropriate size breakers and passes thru appropriate sized wiring on to  outlets ,  pumps ,etc . In the event of a short there is little chance of the wire being overloaded . You do not use 14g wire with a 20 amp breaker ! In a house you would not run a 220v line to a laundry room and place the breaker on the wall behind the dryer. I have never understood the difference between protecting a boat vs. a house . But , maybe I am missing something, it would not be the first time.

Pat

SM #123

-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Oct 16, 2017 9:34 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems

 

Alan,

That seems an excellent idea. I remember that in 2001 I totally redid SM Miss Lindy's wiring (don't recall the hull number) after it completely burned out for the third time. All the heavy cables in the engine room, from battery to starter to generator to main house feeds had melted solid. As I finished up I still had low volts from the engine to the battery.  Traced it to the starting cables having chaffed about 12 inches down inside the PVC pipe from the battery to the engine (that was supposedly there to prevent chafe). Your solution would have prevented much heartache and expense. 

Will be interested in Bill K's bounce. Perhaps the modern distributed systems do incorporate that.

Craig SN#68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <divanz620@...> wrote :

well said Bill,

BUT that's exactly what we have on our SMs....th e anchor windlass, the genoa furler etc have the breakers at the "other end" of the cables that run from the house bank...and...on the standard setup, there are NO FUSES near the battery connections. 

I've put large Blue Sea fuses in the battery compartment on each of my 3 banks of 4 6V series batteries to try to address these issues.

What have you done ?

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437

 

Craig,

 

I think you (and Amel in the "old days") are simply missing the point of circuit breakers.  They are most certainly NOT there to protect the anchor washdown pump, or t he thruster motor, or any other piece of equipment.  There is nothing a circuit breaker can do to "protect" the pump motor, or other device:  If it shorts, it has already died! If, in normal operation, it draws too much current for the wiring to support, then the wiring is undersized.

 

Circuit breakers are there to protect the WIRING and prevent the catastrophic results that can occur if a short occurs ANYWHERE that overloads the wiring.  This can occur from many faults, none of them likely, but all with disastrous consequences.  Wire chafe is probably the most common cause on boats, but others happen. I'd guess loose connections are a close second.  

 

Having a breaker at the far end of the wire, away from the battery, completely misses the point of why it is there in the first place. In my opinion, if you have a circuit breaker at the point of use of the power, you might as well just replace it with a switch--it is essentially useless. 

 

When I ran a service department for a large charter company, one of the annual safety meetings I ran for for my staff was to dead short circuit a 12 volt battery through 14 gauge wire.  Watching solid copper wire burst into flame and literally explode was a sobering experience for people who could easily get into the habit of thinking "its only 12 volts." It really made the point about why fuses and circuit breakers were essential.

 

There is nothing at all wrong with distributed CONTROL of an electrical system. That is just fancy electronics.  But... you can not "distribute" protection of the wiring. I have never heard a  good reason to run long lengths of un-fused wiring on a boat--or anywhere else.  It is just dangerous--and for absolutely no benefit.  Dangerous overloads rarely occur because of equipment problems.  They occur because of wiring faults.  Do they happen often?  No, not at all. But when they do, it is truly terrifying.  

 

C-zone, Ocotplex, etc, a re NOT wiring protection systems.  They are not "circuit breakers".  They are CONTROL systems.  Very different animals.

 

I have seen several boat fires at much closer quarters than I ever hope to repeat, and most of them were electrical in origin, all from things that shouldn't have happened--but did.  

 

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

 

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

I'd always thought Amel was ahead of the curve with its Distributed Electrical System. That seems to be the direction the industry is going, now with solid state circuit breakers controlled through the NMEA2000 data network. Eliminates the large industrial style circuit breaker panels of yore and adds great flexibility. Check out CAPI2, C-Zone, Octoplex, etc. Seems Amel is going backwards technologically if they're centralizing. Let's see, your anchor washdown pump shorts and rather than it tripping an adjacent breaker it's got to overload a 15 meter long cable run back to the central circuit breaker panel. To say nothing of the excess wiring to give all equipment a "home run". Must be missing something in this discussion.

Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris

< br>

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] NIKIMAT Illustrations & Parts for sale

rossirossix4
 

Alexandre,
Speaking for all of us, I am sure.  Thank you so much for your guides.  We have used them over the years and they are a GodSend.  So well documented and instructions are so thorough and clear.  Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker bottoms...

James Alton
 

Kent,

   The bow lockers on our boat and the chain locker were also very wet and heavily mildewed  when we bought the boat.  They now stay almost completely dry but it takes a little effort.  All three spaces are essentially unvented so any moisture present from damp lines/fenders etc. will never dry inside any of these  lockers.  Salt  is hydroscopic so when the humidity is high any the items in the locker that have salt on them ( even if they felt dry when placed in the locker) will absorb moisture from the air that will be driven out during the daily heating cycle to condense when the locker cools.    Perhaps you have noticed that though the bottom of the bow locker lids seem dry during the daytime, and then lid is dripping wet in the morning?   Another entry for water that I discovered, is that when underway in waves that are more than about 2’ a bit of saltwater enters through the locker drains from spray and can soak into anything that is absorbent  laying on the locker bottom.  I am using closed cell foam to slightly elevate the lines off of the locker bottom to help prevent this.   I am looking now for a mesh plastic grating that is sometimes used in dog pens that might work better than the foam.  The other things that I do to try to keep my bow lockers dry is to remove any salt contained in the locker itself or in the contents on a regular basis and to thoroughly dry all of the items before putting them back in the locker.  I also open the lockers during the periods of dry weather to encourage drying since even after all of this I will sometimes get a minor amount of condensation on the bottom of the lid after a cool night.  If the rest of the locker is dry, this bit of moisture will dry off quickly with the lid open.  Finally,  when I store the boat in the off season, I put a fabric cover over the entire bow area which keeps the direct sun off of the lockers to reduce the maximum temperature.  When I returned to the boat this season,  I was pleased to find no mildew growth inside either bow locker and that everything inside was completely dry.   

    In my anchor locker,  I noticed that there was often condensation hanging in drops from the underside of the the locker.  Rinsing and drying the chain on deck plus leaving the water tight door in the bow open eliminated this problem but it is a bit of work to keep up with and requires a good bit of fresh water.   I think that your suggestion to replace the plywood with a non-cellulose panel would be a good idea since the anchor locker especially is going to be wet most of the time when cruising.   

   
James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Oct 15, 2017, at 10:28 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


My bow lockers are notoriously damp, not sure how water is getting in.

I really don't think any chemical will help if you get a hole in the sealing layer, what ever it is.  If yours is still solid, I would glass over it after it has dried thoroughly.  That won't protect it from below, but nothing is likely to damage it from below.  If its feeling squishy at all, I'd replace with something that won't rot, or glass over a good marine plywood.
Kent
SM243
Kristy




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] NIKIMAT Illustrations & Parts for sale

scentstone
 

Hi Alexandre,

Thank you for the extensive job with your guidelines and manuals.
I hope you're doing better now.
Keep in mind my previous offer and ring bell anytime ;-)

Fred
S/V ScentStone #375
(currently East Australia)

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

Teun BAAS <teunbaas@...>
 

Hi Steven,

 

I am also Dutch but live in USA.

Have retained Bill ROUSE for an AMEL currently in the South Pacific.

 

I can attest that retaining Bill is money well spent; he will send you pre-purchase check lists with instructions of specific areas to photograph (200 pics). He will then remotely study & review them and giver you his comments. I know he has been able to point out deficiencies/issues which were not observed/mentioned by a surveyor but, upon further inspection, turned out to be correct.

 

Best regards Teun BAAS

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 1:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

 

 

Hi Mark,

 

I´ll keep that in mind.

 

I´m Dutch and looked at a 53´´ In Holland.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

regards,

 

Steven 

 

 

Op 17 Oct 2017, om 19:47 heeft 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> het volgende geschreven:

 

 

Steven,

 

Get a good surveyor, one that knows Amels. There are plenty mentioned on this forum.

 

Call Bill Rouse and get him involved. This will be money VERY well spent. (I’m assuming you are in the USA or North America)

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 11:17 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

 

  

Hi everyone,

 

Any weak points to check before purchasing an Amel  SM 2000 build in 2003???

 

 

Kindly regards,

 

Steven

 

 

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

Dan Carlson
 

Hi Steven,  if it is the one I looked at 2yrs ago it needs a good survey and a very solid plan of action. 

Happy to pick up with you off line.

Dan Carlson, 
SM 387, sv BeBe




On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 6:05 PM, Steven Nieman stefnieman@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Hi Mark,


I´ll keep that in mind.

I´m Dutch and looked at a 53´´ In Holland.

Thanks for your input.

regards,

Steven 


Op 17 Oct 2017, om 19:47 heeft 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> het volgende geschreven:


Steven,

 

Get a good surveyor, one that knows Amels. There are plenty mentioned on this forum.

 

Call Bill Rouse and get him involved. This will be money VERY well spent. (I’m assuming you are in the USA or North America)

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Grenada

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 11:17 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

 

  

Hi everyone,

 

Any weak points to check before purchasing an Amel  SM 2000 build in 2003???

 

 

Kindly regards,

 

Steven

 

 



[Amel Yacht Owners] NIKIMAT Illustrations & Parts for sale

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon,

I just finished a “crude” page on http://nikimat.com
with links to most the Illustrations I did, plus Owner Manuals, etc.

Toward the bottom you will see “Parts for sale”.
For now I only listed the Volvo engine parts (can’t believe it total to over $8550 + tax/shipping).
I haven’t posted what price I would like, thought of 20% below the US price I paid (which means 35% below Caribbean prices), open to suggestions.
I would prefer the parts to be picked up locally in Sint Maarten.
Even if you are not buyer, you can always look at the part number, pictures and drawing for reference.

Working next on the generator.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Lost on September 6 during Hurricane Irma at
IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

James Cromie
 

I echo the comments of others on this topic. 
My wife and I are in the process of purchasing an Amel presently.  
We initially looked at Amel SM2000’s without the help of anyone with expertise with these unique boats.  After we had looked at a boat, we decided to ask Bill Rouse for pre-purchasing consulting. 
His advice and experience was invaluable in the process for us.  If I did it over again, I would have had Bill help from the very beginning before even looking at a boat.  

I would also echo the opinion that an experienced surveyor who has specific expertise with Amels is critical.  If you hire a surveyor who doesn’t have that experience, you will be throwing away $1500 or so,  and have little useful information from the survey, in my opinion.  I can say that from personal experience!

I have learned a great deal about Amels in the short time that I have known Bill R.

Similarly, this forum has been a fount of knowledge, opinions, and overall useful advice for new owners like ourselves.  I’m compiling a book of my own from many of the threads generated on this forum.  

James
(sub-title pending…)


On Oct 17, 2017, at 4:34 PM, mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I am a new owner of SM #440 Cara (July 2017).  I second Mark's comments:


1.  Get a surveyor who knows Amels.  I used Olivier Beaute for two separate surveys and can't recommend him strongly enough.  One deal I walked away from and the other one I bought the boat.  I don't regret either outcome.  Olivier worked for Amel for ~20 years and knows these boats better than probably anyone alive.  He charges the same as other surveyors and he gives you an introductory education about the boat and it's systems while he conducts the survey as long as you attend the survey.  It's priceless.  Contact info:  Olivier BEAUTE atlanticyachtsurvey@...Mob: +33 674 028 243; olivierbeaute AT gmail dot com

2. Get in touch with Bill Rouse even if you are not in North America.  Air travel and hotels are relatively cheap.  The experience and knowledge that comes from 11 years owning, living on, and sailing an Amel SM is priceless. 


Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD




Re: points to check before buying 2003 Amel SM 2000

mfmcgovern@...
 

I am a new owner of SM #440 Cara (July 2017).  I second Mark's comments:

1.  Get a surveyor who knows Amels.  I used Olivier Beaute for two separate surveys and can't recommend him strongly enough.  One deal I walked away from and the other one I bought the boat.  I don't regret either outcome.  Olivier worked for Amel for ~20 years and knows these boats better than probably anyone alive.  He charges the same as other surveyors and he gives you an introductory education about the boat and it's systems while he conducts the survey as long as you attend the survey.  It's priceless.  Contact info:  Olivier BEAUTE atlanticyachtsurvey@... Mob: +33 674 028 243; olivierbeaute AT gmail dot com

2. Get in touch with Bill Rouse even if you are not in North America.  Air travel and hotels are relatively cheap.  The experience and knowledge that comes from 11 years owning, living on, and sailing an Amel SM is priceless. 


Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD