Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Murray:

Murray Seidel wrote: ".... then we welded top and bottom SS plates to make a new I-beam on
top of the old and thicked the areas between the top and bottom plates on both sides"

Murray, can you give more specifics about the thickness of the material welded on as
doublers to the shank on the top and bottom of the I beam cap plate and base plate? Also,
how far along the shank did you carry the doublers? A photo would be helpful if you are
near the boat.

" Do I need to trash the anchor despite the welding? Any thoughts? "

I am as worried about welding causing stress risers as I am about work hardening of the
metal by bending it back into shape. Seems we need a metallurgist to help us sort this
al out.

Thanks, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: Painting deck stripes

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Caspar,

I posted the pictures of the deck stripe painting. Sorry my e-mail
link was not attached to the pictures.
As usual, Gary Silver has done an excellent job of explaining the
process. Thank you, Gary, and I'm glad you're happy with the results.
Caspar, if you have any questions, please post them, and I'm sure
you will get useful advice. As far as I know, about a dozen owners
have painted the deck stipes, all using the same basic approach.

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

I read with interest the anchor shank bending. SM349 's shank bent 90 degrees this summer anchored in four foot plus seas starting a race for our organization. It took a 30 ton press to straighten it, then we welded top and bottom SS plates to make a new I-beam on top of the old and thicked the areas between the top and bottom plates on both sides. I been sailing for 40 myears and never seen that happen. Makes you wonder about the anchor strength?. Do I need to trash the anchor despite the welding? Any thoughts?
Sundance sm 349 Murray Seidel.

----- Original Message -----
From: dlm48@aol.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend



YEP WE managed that on Bill and Judy's SM200 just off the entrance to the
Moorings base in Road Town Tortola - they had it straightened no problem - i am
sure Judy or Bill will post and give you chapter and verse on the repair. It
would appear to my engineering brain that the shank need to be upsized
considerably as it cant handle the load that the flukes can generate with an SM200
leaping about in a boisterous anchorage

regards

David

In a message dated 14/02/2008 15:03:27 GMT Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes:

Hi Folks:

On a recent bit of sailing in Barbuda, West Indies, we were anchored
overnight in a bit of a
windy anchorage (about 25 knots, gusts to 30 knots). We were anchored in a
sand bottom as
far as we know and the boat would sail about somewhat as is customary. We
had a nylon
anchor snubber in place. Upon weighing anchor (the anchor broke out with the
normal
amount of resistance) we found the bent anchor shank depicted in the photo
that I have
posted in the photo's section.

Has anybody else had this problem? I have delivered the anchor to a shop in
Antigua that
says they can straighten the shank in their hydraulic press. I am concerned
about work
hardening of the metal from the bending forces. Anybody have thoughts about
the
advisability of straightening the shaft. The shank is welded in place so
replacement would be
a major undertaking. There is no deformation of the blade of the anchor.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

dlm48@...
 

I think turning the shank into an I-beam will solve this 'issue' without any
need to add more material to the shank.

Stainless Steel is more malleable than cast steel so will bend - as you and
others have discovered - i dont think this is a 'strength' issue - it is
just that 'the flat' SS shank will bend before it manages to reset the anchor
flukes.

IF you look at a CQR for instance you will see a cast/forged I-beam.

Your modification to create the SS I-beam shank will stop it bending
'certainly not at the same loads' so the anchor will turn and reset in line with
the new direction of pull.

regards

David

In a message dated 17/02/2008 15:46:25 GMT Standard Time, mseidel@ec.rr.com
writes:

I read with interest the anchor shank bending. SM349 's shank bent 90
degrees this summer anchored in four foot plus seas starting a race for our
organization. It took a 30 ton press to straighten it, then we welded top and bottom
SS plates to make a new I-beam on top of the old and thicked the areas
between the top and bottom plates on both sides. I been sailing for 40 myears and
never seen that happen. Makes you wonder about the anchor strength?. Do I
need to trash the anchor despite the welding? Any thoughts?
Sundance sm 349 Murray Seidel.
----- Original Message -----
From: _dlm48@aol.com_ (mailto:dlm48@aol.com)
To: _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

YEP WE managed that on Bill and Judy's SM200 just off the entrance to the
Moorings base in Road Town Tortola - they had it straightened no problem - i
am
sure Judy or Bill will post and give you chapter and verse on the repair. It
would appear to my engineering brain that the shank need to be upsized
considerably as it cant handle the load that the flukes can generate with an
SM200
leaping about in a boisterous anchorage

regards

David


Re: Painting deck stripes

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Caspar:

There is a lot of information of this site about painting the deck stripes. Just enter
"stripes" in the search window of the messages area and you will find about 50 messages.
Start at the beginning (oldest calendar date) and you will find all you need to know.

We just completed this process on our boat. Here are the highlights and what we used:

1. We used Interlux Brightside Single Part Polyurethane paint. We bought a quart of red, a
quart of green, and a quart of white. Red and Green in 50/50 mix makes a very dark
brown (almost black), added white to lighten the color to nearly match the original brown.
The mix was 20 ml green, 20 ml red, 6 ml white per batch.
2. Scrub the deck and rinse clean, then scuff sand the deck stripe grooves with about 300
grit sandpaper using a rubber eraser of something similar as a small sanding block.
3. Wipe down the groove just before painting with mineral spirits to remove sanding and
other residues and allow to dry for a minute or two.
4. Apply the paint using a pin striping tool (Google these up on the internet). We used a
Buegler tool with a wheel that was about 1/2 the width of the stripe. This is basically a
metal tube with an end fitting that has a serrated metal wheel at the end that rolls the
paint into place. Others have mentioned, and I found it to be true, that the width of the
grooves is not uniform and 2 to 4 passes will yield the best results. Start at at the least
conspicuous place because there is a learning curve and you will get better with time. Use
a very small paint brush to do the areas that you can't do with the pin striping machine.
5. Be prepared for lots of time on your knees and some aggravation as you discover every
tiny flaw in the the deck (molds were reportedly made from weathered teak and thus had
flaws as well).
6. Be ready with a small squirt bottle of mineral spirits and lots of rags to take care of
correcting errors as there will be plenty.
7. Seal the decks with Polytrol/Pentrol after the striping is completed. The decks will look
brand new. This is the single best cosmetic enhancement we have made to the boat.
8. This took about 40-50 man hours from start to finish.

As to repairs of the light brown deck, it is gel coat and will require gel coat matching and
typical fiberglass repair with careful texturing. I plan to see if Laurent in Guadeloupe has
available some of the matched gel coat for the decks as I have one small ding I would like
to repair. I know he has matched gel coat for the off white of the other areas as he made a
repair with it to an area damaged when the starboard windshield was replaced.

I hope this helps.

Gary Silver, Amel SM2000 Hull #335


I saw the pictures of "rbenven44" regarding Painting deck stripes.

As "rbenven44" does not have an email address posted, could anyone
else or "rbenven44" himself please answer the following questions:

1. How can one fill the lines with black (paint / technical), it
looks as new!
2. Can one repaint the deck as well? I contacted Amel and they told
me that I could not paint the deck. Unfortunately there are some
minor damages to the deck so I would prefer to give it some sort of
face-lift.

I would be deeply thankful if anyone could answer my questions.

Kind Regards,

Caspar Groot


Painting deck stripes

camacfinancial <camacfinancial@...>
 

Dear All,

I saw the pictures of "rbenven44" regarding Painting deck stripes.

As "rbenven44" does not have an email address posted, could anyone
else or "rbenven44" himself please answer the following questions:

1. How can one fill the lines with black (paint / technical), it
looks as new!
2. Can one repaint the deck as well? I contacted Amel and they told
me that I could not paint the deck. Unfortunately there are some
minor damages to the deck so I would prefer to give it some sort of
face-lift.

I would be deeply thankful if anyone could answer my questions.

Kind Regards,

Caspar Groot


Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Folks:

On a recent bit of sailing in Barbuda, West Indies, we were anchored overnight in a bit of a
windy anchorage (about 25 knots, gusts to 30 knots). We were anchored in a sand bottom as
far as we know and the boat would sail about somewhat as is customary. We had a nylon
anchor snubber in place. Upon weighing anchor (the anchor broke out with the normal
amount of resistance) we found the bent anchor shank depicted in the photo that I have
posted in the photo's section.

Has anybody else had this problem? I have delivered the anchor to a shop in Antigua that
says they can straighten the shank in their hydraulic press. I am concerned about work
hardening of the metal from the bending forces. Anybody have thoughts about the
advisability of straightening the shaft. The shank is welded in place so replacement would be
a major undertaking. There is no deformation of the blade of the anchor.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: Wanting to buy

billklein48 <sidecar1@...>
 

Bill, I have a 1981 Maramu hull # 91 for sale. She is in very good
mechanical condition. I have her listed with Samalot Marine of
Haverstraw New York, but have reserved the right to sell on my own. The
listed price is $159,000 (well within your budget). Contact me at
sidecar1@verizon.net or call at (845)641-7549--regards, Bill Klein

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "bill.young20" <bill99@...>
wrote:

Hi,
I have been looking for an offshore sailing boat for a while and have
decided that I like the Amel range.I am looking for something between
48 and 55 feet so I think that has to be either a Mango or Maramu.My
budget goes to approx 240K US$.Is there anything out there.Regards
Bill
Young.


Wanting to buy

bill.young20 <bill99@...>
 

Hi,
I have been looking for an offshore sailing boat for a while and have
decided that I like the Amel range.I am looking for something between
48 and 55 feet so I think that has to be either a Mango or Maramu.My
budget goes to approx 240K US$.Is there anything out there.Regards Bill
Young.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

dlm48@...
 

YEP WE managed that on Bill and Judy's SM200 just off the entrance to the
Moorings base in Road Town Tortola - they had it straightened no problem - i am
sure Judy or Bill will post and give you chapter and verse on the repair. It
would appear to my engineering brain that the shank need to be upsized
considerably as it cant handle the load that the flukes can generate with an SM200
leaping about in a boisterous anchorage

regards

David

In a message dated 14/02/2008 15:03:27 GMT Standard Time,
no_reply@yahoogroups.com writes:

Hi Folks:

On a recent bit of sailing in Barbuda, West Indies, we were anchored
overnight in a bit of a
windy anchorage (about 25 knots, gusts to 30 knots). We were anchored in a
sand bottom as
far as we know and the boat would sail about somewhat as is customary. We
had a nylon
anchor snubber in place. Upon weighing anchor (the anchor broke out with the
normal
amount of resistance) we found the bent anchor shank depicted in the photo
that I have
posted in the photo's section.

Has anybody else had this problem? I have delivered the anchor to a shop in
Antigua that
says they can straighten the shank in their hydraulic press. I am concerned
about work
hardening of the metal from the bending forces. Anybody have thoughts about
the
advisability of straightening the shaft. The shank is welded in place so
replacement would be
a major undertaking. There is no deformation of the blade of the anchor.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: greeting and question about AIS

bootlegger@...
 

Hello Miles

As someone with the same system as yourself including the VHF aerial
splitter which I picked up at last year's Southampton Boat Show and
which I found easy to install and which has worked brilliantly since,
I would subscribe to everything you say.

Awesome system. Yes, I too found there is much more liklihood
of a response from a closing ship when called up by name.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann #321
(currently lying in Guadeloupe)

Hello Mark,




I used a slightly different approach to AIS which may be of interest. I
purchased a SITEX black box unit and connected it to the VHF antenna with
an
active splitter. The splitter is a unit called "EasySPLIT. I do not know
if it is sold in the US, but I have seen others in the Defender catalog.
The splitter costs more than the AIS but avoids adding another antenna and
cabling. The AIS shows on a laptop that lives on a shelf (that Amel
designed) over the chart table. This has worked flawlessly for the last
year. Passing through the Straits of Gibraltar last December, I counted
about 40 ships underway. Since the AIS range is well over 40 miles for a
big ship with a high antenna, I could have seen more ships on a larger
scale
chart, but the close ones were of more interest. An added benefit of the
AIS is that it shows the name of the ship as well as the closest passing
distance. Ships seem to respond better when addressed by name than by
"the
ship at position . . . . "



Miles Bidwell

S/Y LADYBUG (now in Martinique)

SM 216






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] greeting and question about AIS

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Mark, we agree with Eric. We have a NASA unit with screen at the Nav station and use it the same way... When we are in the shipping lanes we can see shipping even when in a rain or wind storm and the radar has lots of clutter...
Richard and Joan at Simpson Bay SM 209

eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:
MARK,

I would order the "radar unit "from Nasa. Otherwise I would order the black
box from NASA. It is so cheap.

The black box comes with computer software.

Before I was hit by lightning I used the "radar unit "and it was amazing.
Now that I have the new Raymarine E series

I get the Ais info on the Raymarine screen it is doubly amazing. I do not
see the need of ais at the helm. You will see the ship on radar and then use
the Ais to figure out your tactics. I have received Ais signals on my chart
plotter since it is rectangular at over 80 miles.

Fair Winds,

Eric

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Pitt
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] greeting and question about AIS

Eric:

Thanks for the quick reply. I do have Raymarine
chartplotters but they are an RL80C at the nav station
and an RC530 repeater at the helm. That was state-of-the-art
in October 2003. As far as I can tell, these are not Raymarine
series C or E, and thus will not take AIS input. If I am wrong,
please let me know since then I will get a blackbox receiver.

If these Raymarine units will not display AIS, the issue is how else to
display AIS output?
There is a NASA unit with a small monochrome display, but
I am not sure where to add another display at the helm. The SeaCas unit
connects to a
laptop via usb (in fact, usb powers the SeaCas receiver so one does not
have to wire it to the boat's power supply). I was thinking of just
mounting my laptop securely on the nav table and using it as the AIS
display -- with full color and large font lettering. I already have
navigation software that support AIS input.

Best,

Mark
S/V Sabbatical III
ASM #419

eric wrote:

Mark,
Why did you choose the seacas system over the NASA unit? Do you have a
Raymarine chart plotter on board? the Nasa black box will put the ais
targets on the C and E series chart plotters.
The install of the Ais antenna is simple.
I believe I suggested the sea me unit to you. If the unit is mounted as on
Kimberlite, there is a hole in the edge of the mizzen masthead on the
starboard side.
I just used a large reamer to enlarge the hole for the VHF antenna. Amel
left runners on the masthead to be able to pull a cable through the
mast. It
is accessible at the bottom of the mast on the port side. It is a
fiberglass
plate with two screws.
You pull the cable down to that point. Then go into the aft head and there
is a panel to the right of the mirror. Remove the panel and you will
find a
piece of corrugated hose that leads up to the bottom of the mizzenmast
with
the radar cable in it. You then just pill the cable down into the mirror
area with a snake. . there is a wood panel below the forward port in
the aft
cabin . Remove this with the few wood screws. Incidentally, Amel uses torx
screws and not Phillips head screws. They look very similar, but the torx
screwdriver available from McMaster works much better on all the screws of
the boat. With this panel removed you can run the ais antenna cable across
the boat. Just follow the radar cable across the headliner in the
mid-ships
bunk using the access panels. The cable then runs down into the forward
cabinet in the mid ships cabin. It is behind removable panels on the
forward
side, which is held in with Velcro. Then remove the panel behind the
bookshelf and you are at the nav station. After mounting the antenna, I
believe we had the cable at the nav station in less than 30 minutes.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-








---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] greeting and question about AIS

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Mark, we agree with Eric. We have a NASA unit with screen at the Nav station and use it the same way... When we are in the shipping lanes we can see shipping even when in a rain or wind storm and the radar has lots of clutter...
Richard and Joan at Simpson Bay SM 209

eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:
MARK,

I would order the "radar unit "from Nasa. Otherwise I would order the black
box from NASA. It is so cheap.

The black box comes with computer software.

Before I was hit by lightning I used the "radar unit "and it was amazing.
Now that I have the new Raymarine E series

I get the Ais info on the Raymarine screen it is doubly amazing. I do not
see the need of ais at the helm. You will see the ship on radar and then use
the Ais to figure out your tactics. I have received Ais signals on my chart
plotter since it is rectangular at over 80 miles.

Fair Winds,

Eric

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Pitt
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] greeting and question about AIS

Eric:

Thanks for the quick reply. I do have Raymarine
chartplotters but they are an RL80C at the nav station
and an RC530 repeater at the helm. That was state-of-the-art
in October 2003. As far as I can tell, these are not Raymarine
series C or E, and thus will not take AIS input. If I am wrong,
please let me know since then I will get a blackbox receiver.

If these Raymarine units will not display AIS, the issue is how else to
display AIS output?
There is a NASA unit with a small monochrome display, but
I am not sure where to add another display at the helm. The SeaCas unit
connects to a
laptop via usb (in fact, usb powers the SeaCas receiver so one does not
have to wire it to the boat's power supply). I was thinking of just
mounting my laptop securely on the nav table and using it as the AIS
display -- with full color and large font lettering. I already have
navigation software that support AIS input.

Best,

Mark
S/V Sabbatical III
ASM #419

eric wrote:

Mark,
Why did you choose the seacas system over the NASA unit? Do you have a
Raymarine chart plotter on board? the Nasa black box will put the ais
targets on the C and E series chart plotters.
The install of the Ais antenna is simple.
I believe I suggested the sea me unit to you. If the unit is mounted as on
Kimberlite, there is a hole in the edge of the mizzen masthead on the
starboard side.
I just used a large reamer to enlarge the hole for the VHF antenna. Amel
left runners on the masthead to be able to pull a cable through the
mast. It
is accessible at the bottom of the mast on the port side. It is a
fiberglass
plate with two screws.
You pull the cable down to that point. Then go into the aft head and there
is a panel to the right of the mirror. Remove the panel and you will
find a
piece of corrugated hose that leads up to the bottom of the mizzenmast
with
the radar cable in it. You then just pill the cable down into the mirror
area with a snake. . there is a wood panel below the forward port in
the aft
cabin . Remove this with the few wood screws. Incidentally, Amel uses torx
screws and not Phillips head screws. They look very similar, but the torx
screwdriver available from McMaster works much better on all the screws of
the boat. With this panel removed you can run the ais antenna cable across
the boat. Just follow the radar cable across the headliner in the
mid-ships
bunk using the access panels. The cable then runs down into the forward
cabinet in the mid ships cabin. It is behind removable panels on the
forward
side, which is held in with Velcro. Then remove the panel behind the
bookshelf and you are at the nav station. After mounting the antenna, I
believe we had the cable at the nav station in less than 30 minutes.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-








---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


Re: greeting and question about AIS

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

Hello Mark,



I used a slightly different approach to AIS which may be of interest. I
purchased a SITEX black box unit and connected it to the VHF antenna with an
active splitter. The splitter is a unit called "EasySPLIT. I do not know
if it is sold in the US, but I have seen others in the Defender catalog.
The splitter costs more than the AIS but avoids adding another antenna and
cabling. The AIS shows on a laptop that lives on a shelf (that Amel
designed) over the chart table. This has worked flawlessly for the last
year. Passing through the Straits of Gibraltar last December, I counted
about 40 ships underway. Since the AIS range is well over 40 miles for a
big ship with a high antenna, I could have seen more ships on a larger scale
chart, but the close ones were of more interest. An added benefit of the
AIS is that it shows the name of the ship as well as the closest passing
distance. Ships seem to respond better when addressed by name than by "the
ship at position . . . . "



Miles Bidwell

S/Y LADYBUG (now in Martinique)

SM 216


Re: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

Lars Knudsen <museum@...>
 

Hi Federico



I sounds like you have found a great product. But I would still like to know
which product Amel themselves use and recommend.

Problem is that when a covering is used in a boat that is constantly exposed
to the sun, it will get very, very hot. Therefore the material must be able
not only to insulate - which is great - but also to withstand ageing caused
by heat.



Have others found out which material Amel now use?



Regards,

Lars


Re: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

Fisher, Thomas W.
 

Hello All,

I of course have the same problem on my 1986 Sharki. I know of one boat that elected to go a different route and use vinyl panels finished with wood trim over the seems. It looks tremendous. I know the owner did not bother stripping the old glue except in spots were he laminated supports etc. for the trim work. In the end I think the time commitment was just as long but not nearly as dirty.
I was considering stripping the old glue etc. and then applying a product called Mascote which is a nano insulation product used on commercial ships and coast guard vessels. It is applied as a paint and results in a hard white slightly texturized finish. The sales people say you came get a about R10 by following the minimal application instructions. I planned to trim it out more for looks than anything. If anyone has tried this I would appreciate hearing about it.

All the best,

Tom Fisher

Sheila,
Sharki #142

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lars Knudsen
Sent: Tue 12/02/2008 10:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling



Hi Bill and Federico

Be aware that this topic has been discussed quite a few times - and by the
way, I have the exact same problem in my Santorin 1993 and is considering
how to best handle it.

Joel Potter has posted some very useful information on how to do this job -
and in fact advice to let professionals do the job as it requires special
breathing equipment and splitting most of the boat interior. But I have read
some remarks and also seen posts from a family who did the same job during a
stop in Turkey where the boat was on the hard.

What interest me the most is exactly what material should be used to not
have the same problem in ten year forward. Amel is now using some kind of
felt-backed vinyl lining instead of the old with rubber foam. Does anyone
have the specs and name/number on this material in the right colour?

And what is the exact type of glue to be used and how do one apply it so we
not risk the lining coming down again after a short while.?

Hope you find what you need - I will follow your postings with great
interest!

Best regards

Lars

Santorin Salvagny #79

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of hibibif2006
Sent: 12. februar 2008 16:26
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

Hi Bill,

In the next two month I will replace the ceiling on my SM 056. As far
as I know there is nothing else to do then stripping off the old one,
scratching away the old rubber and glue and apply new glue and ceiling.
I'm shure it will be a dirty hard work.
If anyone know a bether way I would be realy thankfull in knowing it.

Best regards, Federico, Hibiscus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "btleonore" <leonorebt@...>
wrote:

Hello SM owners, I have experienced the dropping ceiling syndrone of
Amels and have solved the problem with fore and aft mahogney strips
but
would like to know the full repair procedure should I chose to do the
proper repair, if there is one.

Thanks for any input.

Bill Rahmig, SM72


Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Hi,

Last year I removed the vinyl and foam backing and have a couple of
suggestions

* As Joel warns, use something better than a dust mask. A respirator
is necessary and really isn't that big a deal...just better rubber seal
and canisters that are specific for the job. You can get the right
stuff at Home Depot, etc. HOWEVER, I heartily recommend a full face
respirator. Again, it is no big deal, just a respirator that also seals
around your eyes. Mine never fogged up and it was absolutely great.
You will be working on overhead surfaces and in anycase there will be a
great deal of irritating dust. It was much better than goggles. These
are not hard to find...I think I bought mine on eBay and they take the
same canisters as the same brand of a regular half face respirator .
* Second, get the LARGEST shop vac you can find and add 2 or 3 hose
extensions (use the 2" diameter hose) and run it through a hatch . This
allows you to place the shop vac on deck and eliminate the noise,
etc--also, the hose is coming from overhead and easy to manouver. Use
of a paper insert filter will simplify the disposal of the old foam.
The powerful suction of the shop vac is very helpful in removing foam,
clearing the air AND adding ventilation as fresh outside air replaces
the air inside the boat it removes. It may sound odd, but you can also
vac against the coveralls you are wearing to remove humidity and cool
your body!!! The shop vac I used had a curved claw like attachment that
was very good for pulling the residual foam from the back ot the vinyl
and from the overheads and bulkheads.

Bob
"Brittany de la Mer"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hibibif2006" <f.bizzarro@...>
wrote:


Hi Bill,

In the next two month I will replace the ceiling on my SM 056. As far
as I know there is nothing else to do then stripping off the old one,
scratching away the old rubber and glue and apply new glue and
ceiling.
I'm shure it will be a dirty hard work.
If anyone know a bether way I would be realy thankfull in knowing it.

Best regards, Federico, Hibiscus


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "btleonore" leonorebt@
wrote:

Hello SM owners, I have experienced the dropping ceiling syndrone of
Amels and have solved the problem with fore and aft mahogney strips
but
would like to know the full repair procedure should I chose to do
the
proper repair, if there is one.

Thanks for any input.

Bill Rahmig, SM72


Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

hibibif2006
 

Hi Lars,

many thanks for your replay. I have red what Mr. Potter wrote.
The produkt I ordered is from Gisa Tex and they write on their speks:

Areas of use

GISA TEX Isotherm and GISA TEX Isotherm Kaschiert, in soft napa
quality with classic grain effects, can be employed both as a premium
upholstery material and as a high-grade wall or ceiling covering. A
top class product.

Qualities

The surface material of PVC gives the product the necessary
waterproofing and resistance to mould, but also a look of luxury.
This material can cope with the demands of long-term use. The high
quality fleece backing layer is a great advantage when gluing and
serves as thermal and sound insulation.

The specification GISA TEX Isotherm Kaschiert additionally has 5 mm
of thermal foam and a layer of charmeuse (artificial silk) on the
back. This makes it an outstanding material for wall and ceiling
covering. Small
irregularities are covered up and the isulation value raised.

Instructions for use

GISA TEX Isotherm utilized as a wall covering is first roughly cut to
fit the space. The wall alone is coated with an emulsion adhesive. We
recommend the use of our type 1805 adhesive with a lambskin roller.
The fabric strips can then be directly applied to the layer of
adhesive and smoothed out carefully


Do you think this will be the wright product?

Tanks

Federico


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Lars Knudsen" <museum@...>
wrote:

Hi Bill and Federico



Be aware that this topic has been discussed quite a few times - and
by the
way, I have the exact same problem in my Santorin 1993 and is
considering
how to best handle it.



Joel Potter has posted some very useful information on how to do
this job -
and in fact advice to let professionals do the job as it requires
special
breathing equipment and splitting most of the boat interior. But I
have read
some remarks and also seen posts from a family who did the same job
during a
stop in Turkey where the boat was on the hard.



What interest me the most is exactly what material should be used
to not
have the same problem in ten year forward. Amel is now using some
kind of
felt-backed vinyl lining instead of the old with rubber foam. Does
anyone
have the specs and name/number on this material in the right colour?



And what is the exact type of glue to be used and how do one apply
it so we
not risk the lining coming down again after a short while.?



Hope you find what you need - I will follow your postings with great
interest!



Best regards

Lars

Santorin Salvagny #79



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hibibif2006
Sent: 12. februar 2008 16:26
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling




Hi Bill,

In the next two month I will replace the ceiling on my SM 056. As
far
as I know there is nothing else to do then stripping off the old
one,
scratching away the old rubber and glue and apply new glue and
ceiling.
I'm shure it will be a dirty hard work.
If anyone know a bether way I would be realy thankfull in knowing
it.

Best regards, Federico, Hibiscus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "btleonore"
<leonorebt@>
wrote:

Hello SM owners, I have experienced the dropping ceiling syndrone
of
Amels and have solved the problem with fore and aft mahogney
strips
but
would like to know the full repair procedure should I chose to do
the
proper repair, if there is one.

Thanks for any input.

Bill Rahmig, SM72




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

Lars Knudsen <museum@...>
 

Hi Bill and Federico



Be aware that this topic has been discussed quite a few times - and by the
way, I have the exact same problem in my Santorin 1993 and is considering
how to best handle it.



Joel Potter has posted some very useful information on how to do this job -
and in fact advice to let professionals do the job as it requires special
breathing equipment and splitting most of the boat interior. But I have read
some remarks and also seen posts from a family who did the same job during a
stop in Turkey where the boat was on the hard.



What interest me the most is exactly what material should be used to not
have the same problem in ten year forward. Amel is now using some kind of
felt-backed vinyl lining instead of the old with rubber foam. Does anyone
have the specs and name/number on this material in the right colour?



And what is the exact type of glue to be used and how do one apply it so we
not risk the lining coming down again after a short while.?



Hope you find what you need - I will follow your postings with great
interest!



Best regards

Lars

Santorin Salvagny #79



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hibibif2006
Sent: 12. februar 2008 16:26
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM][Amel Yacht Owners] Re: dropping vinyl ceiling




Hi Bill,

In the next two month I will replace the ceiling on my SM 056. As far
as I know there is nothing else to do then stripping off the old one,
scratching away the old rubber and glue and apply new glue and ceiling.
I'm shure it will be a dirty hard work.
If anyone know a bether way I would be realy thankfull in knowing it.

Best regards, Federico, Hibiscus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "btleonore" <leonorebt@...>
wrote:

Hello SM owners, I have experienced the dropping ceiling syndrone of
Amels and have solved the problem with fore and aft mahogney strips
but
would like to know the full repair procedure should I chose to do the
proper repair, if there is one.

Thanks for any input.

Bill Rahmig, SM72


Re: dropping vinyl ceiling

hibibif2006
 

Hi Bill,

In the next two month I will replace the ceiling on my SM 056. As far
as I know there is nothing else to do then stripping off the old one,
scratching away the old rubber and glue and apply new glue and ceiling.
I'm shure it will be a dirty hard work.
If anyone know a bether way I would be realy thankfull in knowing it.

Best regards, Federico, Hibiscus


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "btleonore" <leonorebt@...>
wrote:

Hello SM owners, I have experienced the dropping ceiling syndrone of
Amels and have solved the problem with fore and aft mahogney strips
but
would like to know the full repair procedure should I chose to do the
proper repair, if there is one.

Thanks for any input.

Bill Rahmig, SM72