--- In amelyachtowners@y..., rbenven44 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Hello all,
We hope most of you are out there sailing someplace. We are now
in the Azores, where we sailed to from Portugal, after 5 years in

the

Med. Next is Madeira, then Canaries, and Caribbean.
Recently, we have had a problem similar to that

from "pagandaisy",

posted in November. Our engine won´t rev past 2000 RPM. We had

just

had the injectors service by MAYS in Horta. We have 1670 hours on
the engine, and we have checked all the obvious: clean air intake,
clean fuel and filters, clean prop, new oil in transmission. The
engine goes up to 4000 RPM+ in neutral, but underway, it just stops
at 2000. Throttle linkage is OK, and no black smoke at full

throttle.

Any ideas? The best minds in Horta, as well as a diesel

mechanic

with submarine experience (a South African sailor) can´t find a
problem.

Hi I had the same problem with the Perkins Prima wich is basically
the same engine. The solution was to change the injectors. That seems
to have solved the problem. If you had your injectors serviced maybe
they were not serviced correctly. I hope this helps. please post the
solution when you find it.

V C

Thanks for any input, and good sailing to all.
Roy Benveniste, SM Excalibur, #195

My experience has been that the smallest malfunction
in the folding prop will cause this. It can be
anything which prevents full deployment of the prop.
Can you get 3000 RPM in reverse? Usually a prop which
does not deploy in one direction will deploy in the
other. A tiny marine growth, pit in the metal, or even
poor lubrication can prevent deployment. The lubricant
has to be an extra special, extra sticky lubricant
specific to the folding prop or it's ejected at the
first revolutions. The fact that your engine will
reach RPM in neutral suggests it isn't the engine. For
some reason this engine is quite easily "overpowered"
by even small irregularities, such as just going
through seaweed. Hope thi helps. Claude Roessiger
--- rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hello all,
We hope most of you are out there sailing
someplace. We are now
in the Azores, where we sailed to from Portugal,
after 5 years in the
Med. Next is Madeira, then Canaries, and Caribbean.
Recently, we have had a problem similar to that
from "pagandaisy",
posted in November. Our engine wont rev past 2000
RPM. We had just
had the injectors service by MAYS in Horta. We have
1670 hours on
the engine, and we have checked all the obvious:
clean air intake,
clean fuel and filters, clean prop, new oil in
transmission. The
engine goes up to 4000 RPM+ in neutral, but
underway, it just stops
at 2000. Throttle linkage is OK, and no black smoke
at full throttle.
Any ideas? The best minds in Horta, as well as a
diesel mechanic
with submarine experience (a South African sailor)
cant find a
problem.
Thanks for any input, and good sailing to all.
Roy Benveniste, SM Excalibur, #195

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com

Hello all,
We hope most of you are out there sailing someplace. We are now
in the Azores, where we sailed to from Portugal, after 5 years in the
Med. Next is Madeira, then Canaries, and Caribbean.
Recently, we have had a problem similar to that from "pagandaisy",
posted in November. Our engine won´t rev past 2000 RPM. We had just
had the injectors service by MAYS in Horta. We have 1670 hours on
the engine, and we have checked all the obvious: clean air intake,
clean fuel and filters, clean prop, new oil in transmission. The
engine goes up to 4000 RPM+ in neutral, but underway, it just stops
at 2000. Throttle linkage is OK, and no black smoke at full throttle.
Any ideas? The best minds in Horta, as well as a diesel mechanic
with submarine experience (a South African sailor) can´t find a
problem.
Thanks for any input, and good sailing to all.
Roy Benveniste, SM Excalibur, #195

Hello, les Amels,

Does anyone have experience with the W-H Autopilot P-3C model, which
is a belowdeck hydraulic system I am considering installing? I want
to replace my Autohelm 6000 on my Maramu.

I would appreciate any insights on the W-H Autopilot (this is Steve
Dashew's recommended manufacturer) or on other brands of hydraulic
autopilots. Thank you.

David Lambertsen
s/v Have Fun!
Amel Maramu #258

Does anyone have or use a 110 Bruce on their Maramu. I know Amel has
changed the andchor roller recently... will it fit. Paul Camp

When I bought my SM 8 years ago I objected then to the "map lights"
Amel was then installing as reading lights and insisted instead on 24
volt halogen lights. We found some made by Hella in the catalog. My
experience has been exceptional, plenty of light to read by and
almost endless lamp life. I wonder if Amel has installed these in
later editions of the SM. Arnold



--- In amelyachtowners@y..., closereach <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Does anyone have direct experience/comments to share on using more
efficient 24 volt lighting? Specifically, has anyone tried using
white LEDs lights? I see that Davis Instruments makes these in a
cluster with two diferent bayonet socket styles but only in 12

volt.

Do they put out enough light for general use in the saloon or even
for reading?

Also, does anyone have experience with the new CCF (cold cathode
flourescent) series lights from Taylorbrite? While not as efficient
as LEDs the product specs say they're 4-12 times more efficient

than

conventional incandescent lights.

Thanks
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., asm283 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., svladysadie <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Our SM 2000 has the standard Onan 6.5 KW generator, Model

MDKAL42401

and the Volvo Penta (Perkins) TMD22. We have always purchased

filters

and impellers from Amel in Guadaloupe, but we are currently in

the

US. Is there a supplier in the US where we can get impellers

and

fuel filters for each (the NAPA oil filters seem to be fine)?

Bill

on S/V Lady Sadie

Hi Bill

Finding parts for these engines should not be a problem. The Onan

is

a US made item. I noticed that Boat US now carries Volvo parts, I
dont know how their prices are. Just for the record the Amel has a
Volvo TMD22P. Where is your boat now and what are your cruising

plans.

Vito
SV Wanderer
SM#283

Thank you, Vito, for the information. We will be returning to
Trinidad soon, put the boat back in the water, and then stay there
until Thanksgiving. We'll then sail north as far as St.Martin or
the BVI's, and then back to Trinidad or Venezuela for the hurricane
season of 2003. Are you sailing in the Caribbean?

-zzz-- In amelyachtowners@y..., kimberlite1212 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Richard,
i had amel install the led option on kimberlite.
i believe they installed 7 red leds almost at cabin sole level for
night lighting .they work great. i also used a few of the davis
replacements on my old boat. i was equally satisfied with them for
cabin lighting. they were a little short when it came to reading.
eric
kimberlite sm 376.



--- In amelyachtowners@y..., closereach <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Does anyone have direct experience/comments to share on using

more

efficient 24 volt lighting? Specifically, has anyone tried using
white LEDs lights? I see that Davis Instruments makes these in a
cluster with two diferent bayonet socket styles but only in 12

volt.

Do they put out enough light for general use in the saloon or

even

for reading?

Also, does anyone have experience with the new CCF (cold cathode
flourescent) series lights from Taylorbrite? While not as

efficient

as LEDs the product specs say they're 4-12 times more efficient

than

conventional incandescent lights.

Thanks
Richard

Richard,
i had amel install the led option on kimberlite.
i believe they installed 7 red leds almost at cabin sole level for
night lighting .they work great. i also used a few of the davis
replacements on my old boat. i was equally satisfied with them for
cabin lighting. they were a little short when it came to reading.
eric
kimberlite sm 376.



--- In amelyachtowners@y..., closereach <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Does anyone have direct experience/comments to share on using more
efficient 24 volt lighting? Specifically, has anyone tried using
white LEDs lights? I see that Davis Instruments makes these in a
cluster with two diferent bayonet socket styles but only in 12

volt.

Do they put out enough light for general use in the saloon or even
for reading?

Also, does anyone have experience with the new CCF (cold cathode
flourescent) series lights from Taylorbrite? While not as

efficient

as LEDs the product specs say they're 4-12 times more efficient

than

conventional incandescent lights.

Thanks
Richard

Does anyone have direct experience/comments to share on using more
efficient 24 volt lighting? Specifically, has anyone tried using
white LEDs lights? I see that Davis Instruments makes these in a
cluster with two diferent bayonet socket styles but only in 12 volt.
Do they put out enough light for general use in the saloon or even
for reading?

Also, does anyone have experience with the new CCF (cold cathode
flourescent) series lights from Taylorbrite? While not as efficient
as LEDs the product specs say they're 4-12 times more efficient than
conventional incandescent lights.

Thanks
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., "ameleuros" <rogermike@e...> wrote:

Hi again - I have a fixation about what these are like and has
anyone any experiences to tell me about??? Roger

I have an Euros ...I think u cannot see it.the bolts are completly
under the plastic!
Mabe you can ask to Amel.
They are very serious an answer you quikly( 48 h Max).
I did it,they don't know me,my boat have been made in 1969;I sent
them an E-Mail...I received a fax 24h latter!
I ,have never seen a compagny like that!
33 years later!
My job is in computer science,1 year after your deal,you are an
unknow!
Erwan

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., mcgosprey2000 <no_reply@y...> wrote:

In May, SV Alchemy suggested "Sure Step" polish to protect the non
skid areas of the Amel from sun damage.. I purchased some and

tried

it on the brown faux teak decks on my SM Second Call. No matter

how

hard I polish it in, when it dries it leaves a white haze over the
brown faux teak, no doubt because the polishing rag isn't reaching
down into the deeper crevices in the faux teak. The Carib sun will
definitely do a number on the faux teak, lightening it over the
course of several years. Therefore, I am still looking for a
solution. Any secrets out there as to how to keep the faux teak
protected. Michael Glass /Second Call/ Montauk, NY

Joel Potter suggested using caranuba wax. I did this with similar

results. The wax turned into a white haze. Now I am trying to figure
out how to remove the wax. The only good thing is believe it or not
when its wet it actually helps the non skid properties of the deck.
If anyone has any suggestions Im all ears.

Vito Ciaravino
Wonderer

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., sv_alchemy <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Vito -

We have been using a product by Aurora Marine -

www.auroramarine.com -

called "Sure Step" for the non-skid areas of our Sharki with

good

results. It contains a polymer they call "Skid -X" which seals

the

surface preventing oxidation without reducing the nonskid effect

like

wax would. It lasts about 6 mos.

In May, SV Alchemy suggested "Sure Step" polish to protect the non
skid areas of the Amel from sun damage.. I purchased some and tried
it on the brown faux teak decks on my SM Second Call. No matter how
hard I polish it in, when it dries it leaves a white haze over the
brown faux teak, no doubt because the polishing rag isn't reaching
down into the deeper crevices in the faux teak. The Carib sun will
definitely do a number on the faux teak, lightening it over the
course of several years. Therefore, I am still looking for a
solution. Any secrets out there as to how to keep the faux teak
protected. Michael Glass /Second Call/ Montauk, NY


--- In amelyachtowners@y..., sv_alchemy <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Vito -

We have been using a product by Aurora Marine -

www.auroramarine.com -

called "Sure Step" for the non-skid areas of our Sharki with good
results. It contains a polymer they call "Skid -X" which seals the
surface preventing oxidation without reducing the nonskid effect

like

wax would. It lasts about 6 mos.

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., svladysadie <no_reply@y...> wrote:

We will soon be applying the new metallic strip on the rub rail,
while on the hard in Trinidad. What is the best way to care for

the

brown rub rail itself? Bill on S/V Lady Sadie

The Rub rail wich is really a crush zone is just plain fiberglass and
all you need to do is wax it. The rubber right above it looks good if
you apply some type of tire care product. think mgwires makes
something that works well.Unfortunatly it only lasts a few weeks.
What are you doing to your rub rail. How is Trinidad in the summer.

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., svladysadie <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Our SM 2000 has the standard Onan 6.5 KW generator, Model

MDKAL42401

and the Volvo Penta (Perkins) TMD22. We have always purchased

filters

and impellers from Amel in Guadaloupe, but we are currently in the
US. Is there a supplier in the US where we can get impellers and
fuel filters for each (the NAPA oil filters seem to be fine)? Bill
on S/V Lady Sadie

Hi Bill

Finding parts for these engines should not be a problem. The Onan is
a US made item. I noticed that Boat US now carries Volvo parts, I
dont know how their prices are. Just for the record the Amel has a
Volvo TMD22P. Where is your boat now and what are your cruising plans.

Vito
SV Wanderer
SM#283

We will soon be applying the new metallic strip on the rub rail,
while on the hard in Trinidad. What is the best way to care for the
brown rub rail itself? Bill on S/V Lady Sadie

Our SM 2000 has the standard Onan 6.5 KW generator, Model MDKAL42401
and the Volvo Penta (Perkins) TMD22. We have always purchased filters
and impellers from Amel in Guadaloupe, but we are currently in the
US. Is there a supplier in the US where we can get impellers and
fuel filters for each (the NAPA oil filters seem to be fine)? Bill
on S/V Lady Sadie

I am looking for a Sharki,Kirk, or even Maramu if possible to buy.

My budget is in the region of £40,000 to £60,000.

European location would be preferable.

Colin Barber

Dear All,

After a mediteranean adventure with fair winds and some problems
with our new Super Maramu 2000 we arrived in Greece. My website
www.almalibre.gr is updated and there you can find interesting
things that happened to us during the trip.
For your info the Raymarine instruments worked very good during the
trip but as expected on any new boat there are some problems that
have to be solved. The latest is that the 12V engine starting
battery has been discharged after leaving the boat for 5 days in
Syros Island in Cyclades. I was shocked I had to start the engine
with the cables that were supplied with the boat although I had 630
Ah battery capacity on 24 Volts as the boat was connected to the
shore power. Has anybody a clue of what happened? Amel claims that
propably the battery is faulty. I am surprised that on such a boat
there is no other mean to charge this battery but only to start the
engine or generator ( if you can ). Has anybody installed a switch
to paralel the batteries in order to start the engine without the
cables? On my previous boat (Santorin) with 12 V systems everything
was simpler and more safe.

Dimitris Krassopoulos

--- In amelyachtowners@y..., closereach <no_reply@y...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

Last night at 7pm we arrived home with our new Super Maramu. She's
hull #5 and built in 1989. We purchased her in Mamaroneck, New York
and have spent the past 3 weeks traveling down the coast to our

home

here on the east coast of central Florida (Satellite Beach). This
Super Maramu had previously been damaged in a collision with

another

vessel on the starboard side, ahead of the main mast chain plates.

We

bought her from the owner and had her repaired by Derecktor
Shipyards. What an unbelievable level of worksmanship by the
craftsman at Derecktor! The fiberglass repair and joinery repair

work

is superb. It's great to know that the same people building the CEO
of Tyco's $20+M dollar 150+ foot yacht worked on the repair of our
boat.

The masts were damaged in the collison, so the
hardware/motors/winches were removed from what was left of the

masts

(mizzen was snapped in half and mainmast was dented here and

there).

We then motored out Long Island sound, past NYC, down the New

Jersey

coast, up the Delaware Bay and down the Chesapeake Bay and entered
the Intracoastal Waterway at Norfolk.

Ok, without masts it's a bit cheating for a sailboat to do the ICW.
However the Super Maramu is still a relatively deep draft sailboat--
enough that we went aground 4 times (althought 2 of those were
definitely my error of venturing just outside the ICW channel).

For

those interested, be very carefully around Cape LeJuene, North
Carolina where the inlets come very close to the ICW. And the

second

time was right in the center of the channel at mid tide in the cut
that enters the Cape Fear River (also in NC!). The inlets all in
Florida are well marked with cans buoys and we had no problem.
(Incidently, we bought the BOAT/US $99 unlimited tow package just

in

case. It's a great deal and we called them for any 'local

knowledge'

before coming close to many of areas where the ICW cuts close to

the

inlets.)

For the trip, I removed the MaxProp and installed the backup

standard

3 bladed fixed prop. I wanted to be very conservative and 'baby'

the

engine (Perkins 80hp with 2000 hours) so I motored at 2,000 rpm at

a

speed of 7.5 mph (I set the instruments/GPS to miles per hour

rather

than knots as all the ICW chart and navigation books refer to

statute

miles rather than nautical miles). Engine ran flawlessly for each
days 12 to 13 hour run for the past 3 weeks.

I did not pay to much attention to the fixed bridge heights on the
ICW. I can say, however, that here in Florida several of the fixed
bridges just south of Cape Canaveral are around 63 feet right now.
What is the air draft of an SM? I believe it's 65 to 66 feet,
correct?

Our 1985 Sharki is still up for sale. I'll email photos and info on
request.

Richard Tate
SM #5 SPICE

Congradulation on your boat.I owned hull # 6 for a year.I currently
own #283. Although the new boat has all the upgrated systems. I think
the older boats had better woodwork and a higher level of finish. I
hope you get those masts on soon and go sailing. You may be the only
person ever to go down the ICW in a Super Maramu.

Vito Ciaravino
SM#283 Wonderer