Date   

Amel Santorin

george cerillo
 

I am in the market for a Santorin that I would like to
purchase within the next 4 months. Please contact me
ai gmcerillo@yahoo.com or 757 348 5667. thank you
George


____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping


Re: Grab rail in on companion way steps

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Great - thanks Bill


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@>
wrote:

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab
rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a
few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: 46' Santorin Mast Height

Craig Briggs
 

George,
The original Santorin brochure gives "Tirant d'air" as 17.5 meters (or
57.4 feet). Add 3-ish for antennae and call it 60 feet. We've done ICW
just fine, but, as noted by others, watch the "tirant d'eau".
Cheers, Craig


Re: Grab rail in on companion way steps

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@...> wrote:

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: Fridge---regassing

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Ian:

Best access is to pull the fridge out. It is very simple. From the centerline locker at the
bottom of the companionway steps, reach underneath the floor panels towards the port
side panel in front of the fridge. You will feel the Amel hand-screw that secures the floor
panel in front of the fridge, undo that screw, then lift that panel upward and out by first
pushing up from underneath on the forward edge of the panel. This is the way you access
the center section of the fresh water tank as well. Next remove the two phillips head
screws that hold the fridge's kick panel in place at the bottom of the fridge door. Then
from inside the left hand door (stbd side) under the sink, unscrew the Amel hand-screw
that holds the fridge in place. The fridge will then slide out (forward) on two wooden
skids attached to the bottom of the fridge, providing great access to all that you need to
service. Reinstallation is just the reverse. It is a simple job and takes no more than a
minute or two. Once the fridge is out you can also access the most aft compartment of
the fresh water tank if you care to inspect it and also verify that the two fridge
condensation drain hoses are secure and intact. By the way, the entire sink front panel,
including the doors/panel/garbage pail bracket etc, in front of the sink can be removed
by removing two countersunk phillips head screws at the top of the panel. The panel and
doors, all simply lift up off of retaining pins and out of the way. Of course you will need to
remove stowed items from the shelf in the bottom of the sink cabinet as the shelf is
partially supported by the front panel.

I never cease to be amazed at the way this boat is put together for ease of access.

Best regards,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
wrote:


Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can
be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden
panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has
anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold
it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi ,
all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Icom M710 SSB and Simrad VHF ---power consumption

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Pen Azen again. We have had recent problems both with our Simrad vhf and Icom IC M710 SSB, both to do with power output.
The Icom agent here in Rio replaced a transistor ( 2SC 4673) in the SSB . It now seems to work, but has lost its transmitting power meter. Normally, when transmitting, a number of led bars show up on the screen in a horizontal line, the more the better.
Has anyone had experience of a similar failure?
I have looked at the amp meter for the main batteries and on transmit with the SSB I seem to use anything up to 9 amps. Thats at 24 v , so 18 amps through the SSB which has its own converter to 12v.
On transmit with my vhf I seem to use about 8 amps.
If anyone is on board and has a fully functioning Simrad vhf and Icom M710 ssb I would be interested to hear of the readings that they experience on transmit.
fair airwaves, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302, Rio

_________________________________________________________________
Who's friends with who and co-starred in what?
http://www.searchgamesbox.com/celebrityseparation.shtml


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOMBARD DINGHY

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Peter, use 3M 5200 ,sand the rubber lightly apply the sealant, let sit for a week. If that doesn´nt work,Throw the thing away. I had my Zodiac professionally glued at a cost of $600.00 it lasted 1 year.
John SM 248 "Moon dog"


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: annejohn@melita.net.mtDate: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:29:05 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOMBARD DINGHY




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:>> Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely > become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to > what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter > Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico>Hello Peter, It will not be Hypalon as Zodiac does not use that material. I have had a lok on the web and the best I can come up with is " service@zodiac-service.gr" They actually advertise transom refixing on their site and if you tell them that yo are not close to Greece they will probably be happy to advise.I do recall that I once read a report from someone who had their outboard stolen in East Africa by someone who used a saw on the wooden transom! He repaired it with a piece of wood glued in place with Secomastic adhesive which he also used to repair the fabric.Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai Sm 319






_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Fridge---regassing

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi , all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com


Grab rail in on companion way steps

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, niels & rowena <nrfaerch@>
wrote:

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@>
wrote: HI, most likely the due to
lack
of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with
something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening
again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and
let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning
up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well.
YOU
WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I
couldn't
make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel
shut
off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on
engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors,
since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as
discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to
not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can
cause
the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side
(whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should
spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble
shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM
in
reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and
good
luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch"
<nrfaerch@>
wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop
is
clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of
developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.



Hello Niels,
The owners manual for my Yanmar 75HP recommends that if the engine
has been on a light load for a while that it should be run up to
max
revs to burn off the carbon build up on the turbo fan. This should
be
done several times until white smoke is cleared from the exhaust.
Having done that it is important to let the engine tick over for a
minute or so before turning it off so that the fan bearings etc are
cooled/cleansed with > oil rather than leaving the burnt oil to dry
in place. It also > recommends injecting a water/soap spray from time
to time but I have> not been brave enough to try this!

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319




---------------------------------
Rise to the challenge for Sport Relief with Yahoo! for Good

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, niels & rowena <nrfaerch@...>
wrote:

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack
of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with
something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening
again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and
let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning
up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU
WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't
make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut
off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on
engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors,
since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as
discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to
not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause
the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side
(whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should
spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble
shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in
reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good
luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@>
wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is
clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Niels,
The owners manual for my Yanmar 75HP recommends that if the engine
has been on a light load for a while that it should be run up to max
revs to burn off the carbon build up on the turbo fan. This should be
done several times until white smoke is cleared from the exhaust.
Having done that it is important to let the engine tick over for a
minute or so so that the fan bearings etc are cooled/cleansed with
oil rather than leaving the burt oil to dry in place. It also
recommends injecting a water/soap spray from time to time but I have
not been brave enough to try this!

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319




---------------------------------
Rise to the challenge for Sport Relief with Yahoo! for Good



Re: BOMBARD DINGHY

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...>
wrote:

Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely
become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to
what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter
Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico
Hello Peter, It will not be Hypalon as Zodiac does not use that
material.
I have had a lok on the web and the best I can come up with is
" service@zodiac-service.gr" They actually advertise transom refixing
on their site and if you tell them that yo are not close to Greece they
will probably be happy to advise.
I do recall that I once read a report from someone who had their
outboard stolen in East Africa by someone who used a saw on the wooden
transom! He repaired it with a piece of wood glued in place with
Secomastic adhesive which he also used to repair the fabric.

Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai Sm 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 46' Santorin Mast Height

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

Hi,

We took a Santorin up and down the ICW around 5 years ago without problems. You cannot go south of Lauderdale as there is a "low" bridge between Lauderdale and Miami.
After the Deleware you have to go to sea as the ICW is too shallow from there to NY.

We touched bottom a couple of time and once had to wait at an inlet for the tide to rise to crose a bar. We have heard lately that the Corps of Engineers are no longer maintaining the depths in the waterway due to funding cuts (The money is going to fight wars abroad!). I would try to find up to date info on depths in the ICW as this may be your limiting factor.

Regards,

Robin Cooter.
Santorin 004 - Belouga.


George Cerillo <gmcerillo@yahoo.com> wrote:
Does anyone know the mast height of the Amel 46' Santorin? Is this
vessel ICW compatible?






---------------------------------
Sent from Yahoo! Mail.
A Smarter Inbox.


BOMBARD DINGHY

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely
become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to
what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter
Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico


Re: 46' Santorin Mast Height

george cerillo
 

Does anyone know the mast height of the Amel 46' Santorin? Is this
vessel ICW compatible?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

niels & rowena <nrfaerch@...>
 

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.








---------------------------------
Rise to the challenge for Sport Relief with Yahoo! for Good


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks





---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks


Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Niels,

When we bought our SM she would only turn up 1800 RPM. I hade the
same
questions as you. The solution was easy once I learned how to "fix"
and "maintain" the turbo.

I removed the turbo from the engine for and soaked the hot side in a
bath of break fluid. This softend up the carbon deposits and freed
up
the "fan". Be careful of the shaft that controls the pressure relief
valve. Reinstall and your engine should turn up. My TMD22P is
supposed to turn up to 4100 RPM, but it never did get above 3850 RPM.
Then I tried a short cut, and this is what I would try first if I
were you. Be sure the engine and turbo are cold (very important),
remove the four nuts that hold the exhaust to the turbo. SLide the
exhaust piece just enough to allow the little red tube that comes
with
a can of aerosol carburatur cleaner in the gap between the turbo and
the loosened exhaust piece. Spray bunch of carb cleaner all around
the
turbo, pay special attention to the "fan" and pressure relief valve
and
shaft. Use your finger or soft tool to work the "fan" so that is
moves
easily. The carbon deposits will flush away and you are done. Put
it
all back together and run the engine. You should have your RPM back
until next time. There will be a next time. I believe that the
autoprop is way overpitched at the RPM's we use for speed vs fuel
economy. This causes the richness and the carbon to deposit on the
turbo. If you were to run your engine near wide open, your turbo
would
not "coke up", but you would not gain much speed and you would have
enough fuel to go about half way to where ever you wanted to go. Good
luck, I hope this helps.

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...>
wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is
clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks


Running Rigging

camacfinancial <camacfinancial@...>
 

Dear All,

Next week the HISWA (Dutch Sailing Expo) takes place on which splendid
deals can be made. As the new owner of a SM (#39) I would love to
replace my running rigging. Does someone have an overview of the
original running rigging configuration (all ropes; halyards, sheets,
etc...) Length + thickness?

Thanks

Caspar