Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

karkauai
 

Hi Craig.  The original tabs were left in place, about 1 1/2" all around.  The new Flores sit on those tabs and the top of the floors is tabbed to the hull with about 3" overlaps.  I can jump up and down on the new floor with no appreciable give.

Kent
SM243
Kristy



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Thanks for your guess on the plywood thickness, this sounds about right.  I know what you mean about running out of time to do projects on the boat!  I am hoping that the solution is to only have a boat...

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 24, 2017, at 9:34 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

It was a little tough to measure...  it was seriously delaminated, about half the layers falling down. (we were going to do this last year, but ran out of time!) 


Hard to pack all the veneer layers back together.  I'd call it 5/8" (16mm)

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

greatketch@...
 

It was a little tough to measure...  it was seriously delaminated, about half the layers falling down. (we were going to do this last year, but ran out of time!) 

Hard to pack all the veneer layers back together.  I'd call it 5/8" (16mm)

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Super Maramu Genoa Furler.

eric freedman
 

I have the drawings for the Super Maramu genoa furler.

However I do not have the parts list that goes along with the 2 drawings of the furler .

Does anyone have the parts list? Also how many bearings and seals are in the furler?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

James Alton
 

Bill,

   What thickness plywood was use for the floor of your SM?  The floor panel in my Maramu feels like it must be fairly thick given how solid it feels, so just curious.  A plywood panel glassed on both sides is sure nice and stiff for the weight.  With some care it is certainly possible to keep the water out of the plywood for a very long time.   

Best of luck with your project.  

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 24, 2017, at 8:17 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

On my boat the original plywood was glassed on top, and naked below.  


My replacement will be plywood glassed on all sides.  

The original lasted 20 years, if the replacement lasts at least that long it will not be my problem!

Interestingly, there were three Amel SM in the yard here in the last month.  Bow locker reflooring was on the agenda for all of us...

Bill Kinney
Sm160,  Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

greatketch@...
 

On my boat the original plywood was glassed on top, and naked below.  

My replacement will be plywood glassed on all sides.  

The original lasted 20 years, if the replacement lasts at least that long it will not be my problem!

Interestingly, there were three Amel SM in the yard here in the last month.  Bow locker reflooring was on the agenda for all of us...

Bill Kinney
Sm160,  Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

James Alton
 

Craig,

   Thanks for the interesting discussion.    3/8” of solid glass will easily span 16” with adequate stiffness and in fact is probably  overkill.  On the other hand I would look at this from the standpoint of spanning the entire distance between the two sides of the boat rather than relying on the fore aft center panel and the deck to effectively support the floor.  I still think that this might require a method to stiffen the floor panel some.  It would be interesting to know the details of the engineering for sure but the design of the lockers and the positions of the panels suggests to me that these panels add quite a bit of strength and rigidity to the hull an deck in bow area.  The center partition panel for instance I believe would see some of the windlass and forestay loads while the locker floor would stiffen the hull quite a bit.  In other words, if I find the need to rebuild my forward lockers I will be sure to completely restore the original strength and stiffness and probably a bit more just to be sure that the boat has not been weakened at all.

    I am surprised that the plywood forming the floor of your lockers was not glassed over even on the top side of the panel?  Is  there any chance that the floor had been replaced before you bought the boat?  The floor on my Maramu is glassed on both sides though the glass on the bottom stops at the edge of the plywood leaving a gap at the hull since it would have been almost impossible to cover that joint from the bottom.  I have seen other Maramus where the bottom of the floor panel as viewed from inside the chain locker was not glassed so it is curious as to why the construction is different.     If you only have 20 square feet in the locker floor panels then the weight is certainly not going to be an issue but I think that it will be a little heavier than you thought.  I am getting about 60 lbs. for the floor panel in solid glass based on your 20 square foot estimate:  20 square feet x .375 = 7.5”/12 = .625 x 96  = 60 lbs.   You will also be removing the old plywood so the actual increase in weight would be less than that.  For sure with the all fibreglass panels you will never have to worry about the floor rotting again.  
   You are correct,  a 3/8” 4' x 8’ sheet of fir plywood would weigh in the neighbourhood of 36 pounds and so would a 12” x 12” x 12” block of Fir since other than the glue both of these are essentially the same thing. (grin)  The 12” x 12” x 12” solid block of fibreglass would be around 96 lbs. so about 3X the density.  

   I do wonder if the steel pipe originally installed by Amel as the chain pipe might be needed from a structural standpoint as a compression member between the floor of the lockers and the deck in certain circumstances.  An anchor launched in deep water running out fairly quickly and a ball/loop of chain jamming in the chain locker under the locker floor for instance cut put quite a bit of upward force on the locker floor.  A strong compression member could carry that stress to the deck which should be quite a bit stronger than just the 3/8” fibreglass floor… Henri might have had that concern in mind when the steel pipe was specified but I am only guessing.  So while I might upgrade some materials when making repairs such as using stainless pipe instead of the original steel, I personally would be a little uncomfortable reducing the strength as compared to the original design.

 Best of luck with your project.  

James
SV Suneo,  Maramu #220

   

On Nov 21, 2017, at 10:51 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks again, James,

Interestingly, the original construction was not fiberglassed plywood. It was just plywood with fiberglass tabbing around the edges to the hull and then finished on top with gelcoat over both the tabbing and the unfinished plywood. The underside was not finished. 

I should think a thickness of about 3/8" would be sufficient since the width being spanned runs from 2-3 inches to only about 16" maximum.  If I'm not mistaken 3/8 plywood is only about 1 pound per square foot, say roughly 36 pounds for a full 4' X 8' sheet (I think that's the 36 lbs you noted).  In any event there's only about 20 square feet total, so the total weight will only be 25 to 30 pounds - and similar to what I removed. Plus all our stern-heavy Amels need some extra weight up front, anyway :-)  

Regarding the hawse pipe support, I was able to retain the original fiberglass support structures (fillets) on the underside of the deck and on the floor by cutting and peeling out the pipe in small pieces.  This will give excellent support to the new pipe akin to the original.

Cheers, Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Craig,

   Solid fiberglass weighs in around 96 lbs. per square foot versus for instance fir plywood at 36 lbs. per square foot so it is likely that you will add some weight by going with all fibreglass panels to reach the desired stiffness but that would certainly solve the rot concerns permanently.  There are bulking fabrics such as fab matt to build thickness with less weight but I have seen so many failures with those products that I would avoid them myself.  I would think that you could reach the desired stiffness with a total panel thickness that was  thinner than the wood plus fibreglass original so the weight increase should not be as much 3X.  You could add solid fibreglass ribs to the bottom of your panels get the desired stiffness with a lighter weight as compared to a plain panel and I don’t think the ribs would interfere in anyway.  If the panels in my boat rot out at some point, I would certainly consider a similar solution since the anchor locker is going to be a tough place for wood due to the ongoing humidity and dampness.  

    Your idea of using the conduit is interesting as it would never corrode.  I wonder if it would be strong enough by itself and how to secure the ends so that it could never move?  Some kind of a plastic replaceable liner inside of a heavy fibreglass pipe glassed at both ends sounds interesting and permanent.

Best,

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Nov 20, 2017, at 4:25 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks, James, for your good input.  


I'm thinking of using Heavy Wall Schedule 80 PVC electrical conduit for the new hawse pipe - easy to work with and should last longer than I. 
May just lay up fiberglass panels for the bottoms.

Craig SN#68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Craig,

   Good information.  Just note that plywood panels can definitely rot out if glassed on the top and bottom.  Just think of all of the rotten plywood core decks,  transoms in power boats etc.  If you can however exclude the water from the wood completely or keep the moisture content of the wood below a critical level it will never rot.  Epoxy resin will do a better job of excluding moisture than polyester.  The edge of the plywood panel where the end grain of the wood is needs to be very well sealed since moisture will travel the fastest through the end grain.  Any holes in the panel need to have a ring of epoxy around the hole to prevent any moisture entering the panel, caulking isn’t enough IMO.  A Marine plywood panel should have a waterproof glue but you can buy panels that vary greatly in durability based on the wood species selected.   Wood boats can last a very long time  (one boat that I maintain is 109 years old and the planking is almost all original and solid)  even though they remain wet for most of there lives.  Using durable woods and providing good ventilation are the key points.  For the bow lockers I would suggest selecting a species in the “durable” category such as Fir or Sapele.  Be sure that the panel is solid core with no voids and that the inner plys are of the same species/durability rating.   If the locker contains air that is saturated (near or at 100% humidity due to a lack of venting and water being in the locker) any exposed wood will tend to take on moisture and cannot ever dry.  Opening the locker lids on a nice day or providing some kind of ventilation can help lower the humidity levels in the lockers and thereby extend the life of the original or replacement panels.   

    Thanks for the information about the chain pipe being galvanized,  I did not realize this.  This might be a good place for 316 stainless or perhaps using a very thick fibreglass pipe which will of course wear over time.   

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220 

On Nov 20, 2017, at 10:53 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Over the years there have been several posts about the bow locker floors deteriorating due to water rotting out the plywood. I did a minor repair to mine some years ago, but other sections succumbed and I've now removed the entire floors from both lockers. 


Interesting findings:

- Indeed, virtually all the plywood was rotted out, as I expected

-  Surprisingly, the main entry point for water was the hawse pipe. (I thought my deck locker hatches had been leaking, but they had not.) I had seen some rust stains but never found the cause. Turns out the pipe is a standard galvanized one and, over the years, the chain sliding up and down removed the galvanizing and the pipe rusted through. There was a finger width opening on the back side of the pipe at the top and another further d own and these are not at all obvious.

- Having removed the floors I could inspect the bow thruster structure (with some contortions to get myself below the floor level). The structure is made of plywood, well tabbed into the hull and the corners are glassed together, leaving the middle wood surfaces exposed and, surprisingly, unfinished. Oddly, the lower half, from the hull up, is nicely protected by gelcoat. The upper half is not finished at all and the plywood is starting to delaminate on the front side (which is virtually impossible to see with the floors installed). This is where water will run down from the hawse pipe normally.  Fortunately, it is only the surface layers of the plywood that have delaminated and the remainder is still solid, so I can build it back up with fiberglass laminate.

- The floors were only tabbed on the top (getting to the bottom being impractical) and this provides an excellent lip to lay the new floor s on. I'm using marine plywood and applying fiberglass to the bottom before installation to prevent a recurrence.


So, with many of our boats in the 25-30 year range, this area is worth a close inspection. I'm adding a 10" X 16" inspection hatch on the port side locker to allow for future inspections and easier cleanup of the chain locker in the future.


Cheers,  Craig Briggs, SN#68, Ft Pierce, FL











Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks, Kent - how did you tab that in, or did you use mechanical fasteners?
Craig, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I used a composite material with "sandwich" construction 3/4" thick that was very stiff, light weight, and won't rot. Sorry, I don't know the name of the product. Any boat yard should be able to get it. It is expensive but I think I deal for this application.

Kent
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker and hawse pipe deterioration

karkauai
 

I used a composite material with "sandwich" construction 3/4" thick that was very stiff, light weight, and won't rot. Sorry, I don't know the name of the product. Any boat yard should be able to get it. It is expensive but I think I deal for this application.

Kent
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Predict Wind

karkauai
 

I rarely see cell signal good enough to get more that text or email when more than a few mikes offshore.
Kent



Re: Alarm Sound

Dean Gillies
 

Hi John,
Olivier also had this listed as suspect for me, but suggested to try re-packing with grease. 
It looks fine, the belt-drive components are all ok, I think it's the worm-gear which is worn. 
It will get replaced at some stage, but down the list a bit at the moment.
Cheers
Dean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alarm Sound

John Clark
 

Hi Dean,  noisy is not good.  My mainsail furling drive sounded bad (looked bad too, was on survey replacement list) at purchase and failed on sail back to US.  Bearings had been dry and ground to dust.  

John
SV Annie. SM 37
Key Largo, Florida.

On Nov 24, 2017 10:20 AM, "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Courtney, I agree it indicates an over-temperature condition. Not sure why, as the ambient has not been very high. I suspect a glitch, possibly to do with lightning - there has been some activity in recent weeks.

The (staysail) furler MEJ 1.02 still operates, although very noisy. I regreased the box but it did not change anything, so I'm living with 'noisy' for the moment. Maybe I can pick up a second hand one somewhere!

Thanks all.
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154


Re: Alarm Sound

Dean Gillies
 

Courtney, I agree it indicates an over-temperature condition. Not sure why, as the ambient has not been very high. I suspect a glitch, possibly to do with lightning - there has been some activity in recent weeks.

The (staysail) furler MEJ 1.02 still operates, although very noisy. I regreased the box but it did not change anything, so I'm living with 'noisy' for the moment. Maybe I can pick up a second hand one somewhere!

Thanks all.
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alarm Sound

Courtney Gorman
 

I believe 7 beeps and a pulse is a heat alarm mine was fried by a near lightning strike.  A refurbished unit is about 750$ and a new unit about 1400$ sorry for the problem but easy fix as 4 screws hold the unit in and you just plug everything into the lower 'spare' until the fix


-----Original Message-----
From: trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Nov 24, 2017 2:44 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alarm Sound

 
Hi folks,
Arrived at the boat late last night.
The prize goes to Courtney, it was coming from the Boxtron Unit in the bow locker!

The alarm was a sequence of 7 beeps then a pause.
I disconnected the unit and the alarm stopped.

Today's task is to find out why.

Will keep you posted...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

Patrick McAneny
 

Olivier, Thanks for confirming that I was not missing any sort of filter. I understand the importance of not restricting air flow and I am only planning to install a wide mesh (1/4 inch) screen over the intake  and making it as you suggested a larger diameter surface area to increase area and emit more air. I can not believe that my engine even started , let alone achieve 1800 rpm with a tightly wound wad of paper towel completely plugging the intake at the turbo. I agree its a rare occurrence , but somehow rare occurrences , have been very common in my life. 
Thanks,
Pat 
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Nov 24, 2017 8:00 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

 
Hello Pat, Jean-Pierre, Duane and all SM and SA owners,

AMEL never installed any air filter on the PERKINS PRIMA and VOLVO TMD, but only an air muffler, in order to reduce the noise at the air intake (which can be as loud as at the exhaust). Then , with the YANMAR 4JH3, an air grate was included by the manufacturer.

For the PERKINS or VOLVO users who would like to install a kind of filter (like a sock or stocking) on the existing air muffler, beware that you will reduce the volume of air going into the cylinders (or turbo). In fact, you should in stall a piece of metal/plastic that would increase the intake diameter, and then install your sock/grate onto the larger diameter.

My advice: Don't change anything (Bill R may agree...!!) as the chance to get a towel in the air intake is poor (as long as you keep your engine room tidy!!!).
Don't make a Murphy's law of a very rare incident (a paper towel forgotten close to the air intake).

Enjoy motoring (and sailing...)

Olivier


On Friday, November 24, 2017 1:28 PM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Duane, No there is no hose from the air cleaner. My air cleaner , if that is what you call it , is a empty vessel with no filter element in it . I don't know if it should have a filter and its missing or what.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Nov 23, 2017 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

 
Pat,

Does the breather line (usually a rubber hose attached to the top of the valve cover) go to the air cleaner that feeds the turbo?

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for a testsail on Amel 54

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dr Wayne Witt owns a 54 based in St Thomas and accepts fee-paying guests aboard his 54 for days/weeks. I have a client that is sailing with Dr Witt now. Wayne's email is Drwaynewitt"at"gmail.com

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Nov 23, 2017 16:10, "arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Group,

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but we would really like to have a day out on a Amel 54 to see what she's like to sail. We are living in the South-Caribbean and ideally would like to meet an owner in the Caribbean.
But other offers are also received with gratitude.

We are trying to figure out if a Amel 54 is right for us. It would mean a huge step in our budget so we are trying to figure out if we are the right people for this great yacht.


Thanks in advance to anyone that help us making our mind up.


Arno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Pat, Jean-Pierre, Duane and all SM and SA owners,

AMEL never installed any air filter on the PERKINS PRIMA and VOLVO TMD, but only an air muffler, in order to reduce the noise at the air intake (which can be as loud as at the exhaust). Then , with the YANMAR 4JH3, an air grate was included by the manufacturer.

For the PERKINS or VOLVO users who would like to install a kind of filter (like a sock or stocking) on the existing air muffler, beware that you will reduce the volume of air going into the cylinders (or turbo). In fact, you should install a piece of metal/plastic that would increase the intake diameter, and then install your sock/grate onto the larger diameter.

My advice: Don't change anything (Bill R may agree...!!) as the chance to get a towel in the air intake is poor (as long as you keep your engine room tidy!!!).
Don't make a Murphy's law of a very rare incident (a paper towel forgotten close to the air intake).

Enjoy motoring (and sailing...)

Olivier


On Friday, November 24, 2017 1:28 PM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Duane, No there is no hose from the air cleaner. My air cleaner , if that is what you call it , is a empty vessel with no filter element in it . I don't know if it should have a filter and its missing or what.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Nov 23, 2017 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

 
Pat,

Does the breather line (usually a rubber hose attached to the top of the valve cover) go to the air cleaner that feeds the turbo?

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Boys,

There is no filter on my air cleaner, just an inverted basket to stop nuts and bolts from entering the turbo… my previous boat almohad a TDM 22 and no filter there either.

Regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Panama.


On 24 Nov 2017, at 07:28, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Duane, No there is no hose from the air cleaner. My air cleaner , if that is what you call it , is a empty vessel with no filter element in it . I don't know if it should have a filter and its missing or what.

Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@....


om>
Sent: Thu, Nov 23, 2017 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

 
Pat,

Does the breather line (usually a rubber hose attached to the top of the valve cover) go to the air cleaner that feeds the turbo?

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

Patrick McAneny
 

Duane, No there is no hose from the air cleaner. My air cleaner , if that is what you call it , is a empty vessel with no filter element in it . I don't know if it should have a filter and its missing or what.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Nov 23, 2017 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Cautionary Turbo Tale

 
Pat,

Does the breather line (usually a rubber hose attached to the top of the valve cover) go to the air cleaner that feeds the turbo?

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: prop shaft bonding

James Alton
 

Bill,

  I think that you understand metals and corrosion pretty well.   In my experience, a really good bronze can survive the Marine environment for the life of the boat unprotected but those types of bronze are not strong enough to make a thin prop blade out of.  Props as I understand things are made of stronger but more corrosion prone alloys, hence the need for protection.  I am quite sure that you are correct that the bronze prop on my Loki is protecting the stainless shaft galvanically.

  We took care of a customers Gulfstar 54 over the period of 20+ years and tried various coatings for the twin PYI feathering props and even Prop Speed failed after 6 months by bubbling off.  While the coating tended to fail first on the back side of the leading edge of the prop, bubbles would form over all of the surfaces with the boat just sitting.  I think that the zincs for the PYI Max Prop might have some magnesium in the alloy to increase the level of protection but at any rate the anodes did corrode away on those props much more quickly than the common shaft zincs.   Imo there is a definite  connection between the rapid corrosion of the anodes and the lifting of coatings on underwater metals such as a prop.   

  I have had to replace a lot of wood in boats damaged by the Alkali buildup and have seen a few nice wooden boats completely destroyed from serious over zincing.  The amount of damage to the wood is as you allude a function of how heavily protected the metals are.   While our  fibreglass hulls are not affected themselves, you can sometimes see some (generally minor)  alkali damage to wooden backing blocks under protected bronze seacocks.  For some reason, bronze alloys are the worst about building up the Alkali when protected than stainless or monel.  

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Nov 24, 2017, at 12:13 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I haven't seen problems with propspeed being bubbled off my prop. (A MaxProp that I keep a zinc on).  What I do see is the coating fail (after about a year) at those parts of the blades that tend to cavitate--on the back side, near the root of the flat, uncupped, blades.  Maybe in the absence of zinc that might not happen, but that's not an experiment I intend to run!


I wouldn't expect zinc to protect the stainless in a cutlass bearing or under the packing.  The problem there is low O2 content of the water, resulting in incomplete formation of the protective oxide coating. It's not the kind of galvanic corrosion that zinc prevents.  

In most boat's running gear the stainless is the most noble of the connected metals, so it sits there happy while the bronze dissolves.

I have little first hand experience with wood boats.  I know of the problems with al kali attack on wood, but I thought that was only a problem when the metal was significantly overprotected by excess zinc.  If I ever lose my mind and buy a wood boat, I'll remember what you say here!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL