Date   

Acces to site and change of my e.mail adress

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

Could you please take note of my new e.mail adress :bluemarinemartin@gmail.com
and cancel my "voila" one.
I just tried to do that directly on the internet site, and just could not find how to get in.
Thank you for your help
Regards
Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE


mcymabm@voila.fr


Amel Super Maramu for sale

Ron and Heather BROWN <tradewindshull171@...>
 

We have just returned from 3 year's cruising in SE Asia and have now
decided to sell our Super Maramu. She was constructed in 10/96 and has
been very well maintained by the original owners and ouselves. The
yacht is an Australian Registered Yacht. Also it is fitted with
professionally made electric S/S davits carrying the Aquapro Rib and
15hp outboard.

A full maintenance schedule since we owned the yacht is available.

For further information please email us direct at -
ronandheather@bigpond.com

Ron and Heather BROWN - SM #171


Re: Testing standing rigging and bent anchors

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Anne and John:

What you are describing is dye penetrant testing and is a standard type
of NDT (non-desctructive testing) for cracks in metals. For a quick
description see :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection

Kits for doing DPT can be purchased from many different suppliers
just by googling up fluorescent dye penetrant testing kits.

The process would be a little tedious especially at the top of the
mast, but would be easily performed with the terminals removed.
Inspection under 10 X magnification also aids in picking up very
tiny cracks.

Regards, Gary


Volvo TMD22 Turbocharger

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Niels and all,
At the risk of overkill, I am re-sending a posting I made a few
years ago on the subject of turbos:

Volvo TMD 22 Turbo: Lessons Learned

During the past summer, I learned a lot about the TMD22 Volvo diesel
engine and its turbocharger. Let me share some of that with those
who helped me solve my problems.
My symptoms were:
• Increasing amounts of black exhaust soot on the side of the boat,
to the point where I had to clean it after just a few hours of
running.
• Inability to run the engine over 2100 RPM under load, although it
would run to 4000 RPM in neutral.

I checked all the obvious: no restrictions on the air intake, clean
prop, clean fuel and filters (Racor & engine), good throttle
linkage. Then I had the injectors cleaned, and they had quite a bit
of carbon build-up. But that didn't change anything. So the only
other possible source of the problem was the turbo.

I talked to some other sailors, including two South Africans who
happened to be diesel mechanics – one on a submarine(!), and the
other a Caterpillar engine mechanic. They explained the turbo to me,
and ultimately told me how to remove it, clean it, and re-install it.
The turbo runs all the time, not just at high RPMs, as some have
suggested. Its role is to force more air into the engine than normal
aspiration would provide. It runs by using the exhaust gas to turn a
turbine, which is on the same shaft as a compressor on the intake
end. The turbo also has a wastegate built into the exhaust side, so
that at very high power settings, some of the exhaust gases bypass
the turbine, preventing the compressor from overpowering the engine
intake.
Now, since the turbo is in the exhaust flow, it receives all the
carbon that is normally in the exhaust gas of a diesel. That is why
it is a good idea to run the Volvo TMD22 at max RPM once in a while,
to burn off the carbon in the exhaust stream. Otherwise, the carbon
will build up and start clogging the turbine and the wastegate
valve. In extreme cases, the whole turbo will seize up, requiring
replacement or major repair.
In my case, after 1600 hours of motoring around the Med, I had a lot
of carbon build-up, but the turbo still turned. However, the
wastegate was partially clogged open, so that even at low RPMs, some
of the exhaust gases were bypassing the turbine. As a result, the
compressor wasn't running at correct speed, and the engine wasn't
getting enough air. Thus, the black exhaust. Also, at high RPMs,
the boost compensator on the fuel rack wasn't receiving enough
pressure from the compressor to open, so the engine wasn't revving
above 2100 RPMs. Basically, the fuel rack wasn't feeding more fuel
to the engine, even though the throttle called for it.
The solution: Remove the turbo (explained in the shop manual), and
clean the carbon from the exhaust side. Also clean the exhaust pipe
leading to the muffler/mixer. I took the turbo to a specialist shop
in Arrecife, Lanzarote, who cleaned it for 40 Euros. Problem solved.
Any questions, let me know if I can clarify any of this.
Good sailing to all, Roy Benveniste


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fridge---regassing

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Who's friends with who and co-starred in what?
http://www.searchgamesbox.com/celebrityseparation.shtml


Testing standing rigging and bent anchors

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Many years ago I read that a good way to crack test rigging terminals
is to apply a fluid which shows up any cracks but I have never heard
or seen anything of this majic fluid since until now when I believe I
have found it at last.
There is a company called Eftec which is a Swiss or German outfit
which now produces and /or markets a wide range of products dealing
with or avoiding corrosion on aircraft, automobiles or whatever. The
brand name is Dinitrol and the crack tester comes in three 400ml
aersol cans called Dinitrol Sim. One is a cleaner, the second the
indicator and the third is the developer which shows up any flaws in
red. It cannot be airmailed (aersols). Available from www.frost.co.uk
or various agents in Europe (try Google). The US agent is
joseph.renzi@eftechna.com.
My Amel S/S CQR type anchor has been a garden ornament ever since we
got a 26kg Wasi or Bugel type anchor in galvanised steel in Turkey
three or four years ago for about 200 euros. We find that it takes
hold in most bottoms very quickly and securely. We also carry but
have yet to use a Fortress and a fisherman, both normally dismantled.

Regards, Anne and John, SM319


Re: Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

poirauda <poirauda@...>
 

<<<<<The following email is from WASI>>>>>>>>>>>>>
……. It should take 2 people not much more than 15
minutes and will have absolutely NO negative effects on the
structural
integrity of the anchor....

Ari Grimm
WASI

May I say that I FULLY disagree with Ari Grimm's statement..
In a previous life ( :-) ), I've been involved in manufacturing
artificial heart valves and artificial hearts.. All valves have been
carved into a solid piece of titanium, as all our studies have
proved that both bending and welding the metal will change the
molecular structure and weaken the metal. Cardiac surgery is a place
where the risk factor should be absolutely ZERO..

Now, let's say that the shank is welded to the fluke.. but at a
place where the shank is much larger, and the overall resistance
should be enough..

It is very difficult to assert precisely which level of weakness re-
bending the shank straight will create.. but in doubt I think I will
change my own anchor for a new one.
Stainless steel is beautiful,
but galvanized steel (at least the one used to manufacture anchor's
shanks) is much stronger..

For more information, please have a look at my book:

"The complete anchoring hand book"

http://www.mhprofessional.com/product.php?isbn=0071475087


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wooden interior

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

To wipe off the wood work and take any cooking grease or hand prints off we use a soft cloth with about a 10% vinigar mix. It does not hurt the finish and cuts the grease...
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

svmalaika@aol.com wrote:
OOPS! ....USE A CLEAN, SOFT CLOTH SLIGHTLY DAMPENED TO WIPE DOWN A VARNISHED
SURFACE. dO NOT USE ANY CLEANING OR WAXING PRODUCTS.

oUR MARAMU WAS 20 YEARS OLD WHEN WE SOLD IT AND THE WOODWORK LOOKED NEW. OUR
SM IS 7 YEARS OLD AND IN PERFECT CONDITION.

CHARLIE
SM 336

**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)








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Amel Santorin

george cerillo
 

--- Wanted to purchase : Santorin in the U.S.


Amel Santorin

george cerillo
 

I am in the market for a Santorin that I would like to
purchase within the next 4 months. Please contact me
ai gmcerillo@yahoo.com or 757 348 5667. thank you
George


____________________________________________________________________________________
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Re: Grab rail in on companion way steps

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Great - thanks Bill


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@>
wrote:

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab
rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a
few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: 46' Santorin Mast Height

Craig Briggs
 

George,
The original Santorin brochure gives "Tirant d'air" as 17.5 meters (or
57.4 feet). Add 3-ish for antennae and call it 60 feet. We've done ICW
just fine, but, as noted by others, watch the "tirant d'eau".
Cheers, Craig


Re: Grab rail in on companion way steps

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@...> wrote:

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: Fridge---regassing

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Ian:

Best access is to pull the fridge out. It is very simple. From the centerline locker at the
bottom of the companionway steps, reach underneath the floor panels towards the port
side panel in front of the fridge. You will feel the Amel hand-screw that secures the floor
panel in front of the fridge, undo that screw, then lift that panel upward and out by first
pushing up from underneath on the forward edge of the panel. This is the way you access
the center section of the fresh water tank as well. Next remove the two phillips head
screws that hold the fridge's kick panel in place at the bottom of the fridge door. Then
from inside the left hand door (stbd side) under the sink, unscrew the Amel hand-screw
that holds the fridge in place. The fridge will then slide out (forward) on two wooden
skids attached to the bottom of the fridge, providing great access to all that you need to
service. Reinstallation is just the reverse. It is a simple job and takes no more than a
minute or two. Once the fridge is out you can also access the most aft compartment of
the fresh water tank if you care to inspect it and also verify that the two fridge
condensation drain hoses are secure and intact. By the way, the entire sink front panel,
including the doors/panel/garbage pail bracket etc, in front of the sink can be removed
by removing two countersunk phillips head screws at the top of the panel. The panel and
doors, all simply lift up off of retaining pins and out of the way. Of course you will need to
remove stowed items from the shelf in the bottom of the sink cabinet as the shelf is
partially supported by the front panel.

I never cease to be amazed at the way this boat is put together for ease of access.

Best regards,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
wrote:


Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can
be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden
panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has
anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold
it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi ,
all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Icom M710 SSB and Simrad VHF ---power consumption

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Pen Azen again. We have had recent problems both with our Simrad vhf and Icom IC M710 SSB, both to do with power output.
The Icom agent here in Rio replaced a transistor ( 2SC 4673) in the SSB . It now seems to work, but has lost its transmitting power meter. Normally, when transmitting, a number of led bars show up on the screen in a horizontal line, the more the better.
Has anyone had experience of a similar failure?
I have looked at the amp meter for the main batteries and on transmit with the SSB I seem to use anything up to 9 amps. Thats at 24 v , so 18 amps through the SSB which has its own converter to 12v.
On transmit with my vhf I seem to use about 8 amps.
If anyone is on board and has a fully functioning Simrad vhf and Icom M710 ssb I would be interested to hear of the readings that they experience on transmit.
fair airwaves, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302, Rio

_________________________________________________________________
Who's friends with who and co-starred in what?
http://www.searchgamesbox.com/celebrityseparation.shtml


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOMBARD DINGHY

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Peter, use 3M 5200 ,sand the rubber lightly apply the sealant, let sit for a week. If that doesn´nt work,Throw the thing away. I had my Zodiac professionally glued at a cost of $600.00 it lasted 1 year.
John SM 248 "Moon dog"


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: annejohn@melita.net.mtDate: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:29:05 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOMBARD DINGHY




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:>> Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely > become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to > what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter > Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico>Hello Peter, It will not be Hypalon as Zodiac does not use that material. I have had a lok on the web and the best I can come up with is " service@zodiac-service.gr" They actually advertise transom refixing on their site and if you tell them that yo are not close to Greece they will probably be happy to advise.I do recall that I once read a report from someone who had their outboard stolen in East Africa by someone who used a saw on the wooden transom! He repaired it with a piece of wood glued in place with Secomastic adhesive which he also used to repair the fabric.Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai Sm 319






_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Fridge---regassing

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi , all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com


Grab rail in on companion way steps

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394


Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, niels & rowena <nrfaerch@>
wrote:

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@>
wrote: HI, most likely the due to
lack
of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with
something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening
again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and
let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning
up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well.
YOU
WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I
couldn't
make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel
shut
off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on
engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors,
since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as
discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to
not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can
cause
the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side
(whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should
spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble
shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM
in
reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and
good
luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch"
<nrfaerch@>
wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop
is
clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of
developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.



Hello Niels,
The owners manual for my Yanmar 75HP recommends that if the engine
has been on a light load for a while that it should be run up to
max
revs to burn off the carbon build up on the turbo fan. This should
be
done several times until white smoke is cleared from the exhaust.
Having done that it is important to let the engine tick over for a
minute or so before turning it off so that the fan bearings etc are
cooled/cleansed with > oil rather than leaving the burnt oil to dry
in place. It also > recommends injecting a water/soap spray from time
to time but I have> not been brave enough to try this!

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319




---------------------------------
Rise to the challenge for Sport Relief with Yahoo! for Good

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, niels & rowena <nrfaerch@...>
wrote:

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack
of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with
something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening
again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and
let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning
up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU
WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't
make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut
off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on
engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors,
since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as
discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to
not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause
the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side
(whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should
spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble
shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in
reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good
luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@>
wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is
clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Niels,
The owners manual for my Yanmar 75HP recommends that if the engine
has been on a light load for a while that it should be run up to max
revs to burn off the carbon build up on the turbo fan. This should be
done several times until white smoke is cleared from the exhaust.
Having done that it is important to let the engine tick over for a
minute or so so that the fan bearings etc are cooled/cleansed with
oil rather than leaving the burt oil to dry in place. It also
recommends injecting a water/soap spray from time to time but I have
not been brave enough to try this!

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319




---------------------------------
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