Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Its been about four years since I installed mine and I think they gave a range to preload , say three to five inches . Not knowing better I chose midway four inches , I wish I had made it five.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 9:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

 
One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure.  They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step.  If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.

What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation.  I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together.  My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much.  If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific  recommendation

With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically r educed.  I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt".  but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Volvo D3

Courtney Gorman
 

Good morning all.  I am having a problem with my D3 volvo.  There was a near lightning strike and the CPU was fried among other things.  Now no one can seem to program the new CPU has anyone else had or heard of a problem like this and if so how did they solve it?  The mechanic has a Volvo computer and has even sent the CPU to  a US volvo dealer so far no luck.
Thanks
Courtney
Trippin Amel 54
Stuck in Brunswick




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

greatketch@...
 

The only rubber in the T-series pumps in contact with pumped water are the joker valves.  

The sealand joker valves (they call them "duckbill valves") are made of nitrile rubber, which is good for oil contact.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

greatketch@...
 

Danny, 

When I installed mine I added a larger G10 backing plate and dug out almost all the balsa core under the feet and replaced it with heavily thickened epoxy.  This has the dual benefit of preventing water intrusion into the core, and greatly increases the compression strength of the deck.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

greatketch@...
 

One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure.  They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step.  If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.

What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation.  I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together.  My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much.  If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific  recommendation

With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically reduced.  I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt".  but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

James Alton
 

Steve,

   Sorry to read about the fit problems with the Emek arch.  I wanted to make you aware that there is a pretty easy solution in dealing mounting pad  fit issues if they are not too severe.  The process is to first correct the fit so that you are within 1/4” or so since 5/8” is too much IMO.  Then locate and drill to install the arch as you would if it fit properly.  Insert some bolts to locate the pads and make a mark on the deck for the pads.  Remove the arch,  tape off the area that were marked for the pads and clean/abrade the area for bonding.  Wax the bottom pads of the arch, then mix up a good epoxy such as West and thicken to a consistency about like peanut butter using colloidal and high density additive.  I also like to add some barrier coat additive to provide more UV protection in case the surface coating ever fails.  Apply copious amounts of the epoxy in a way to minimize air entrapment and then set the arch back in place and temp. secure with enough bolts to accurately locate the pads.  Do not tighten the bolts since you do not want to put stress in the arch but do wax the bolts before inserting.  Neatly tool the epoxy to shape. I usually use about a 30 degree bevel so that the epoxy pad is a bit wider at the base for additional strength so if you use this adjust the sanded area on the deck as needed.  Let your epoxy cure and then pop your arch back off.  You know have an absolutely perfect fit between the arch and the deck.  Sand up your epoxy pads, protect the edges of the pads with paint or gel coat and bed/install your arch as you normally would.  I have so far never had a problem with any of the epoxy pads and like to use them under hardware mounted to the deck that is going to be stressed since with a perfect fit you don’t have hard spots where one edge of a pad is pressing into the fibreglass which often causes crazing or cracks over time.  

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 29, 2017, at 3:04 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Steve, I was the first one to purchase and install an Atlantic arch, and I was concerned about how it or any arch would look. We now actually think it looks fine and has not interfered with the lines of the boat. I cut the tubes and reduced the height and I believe it looks better and I still have plenty of headroom to pass under. Reducing height also brings the weight lower , especially with the dinghy hoisted. 

Good Luck,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Nov 29, 2017 11:14 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Solar Panel Location

 
I just this morning removed one of Emek’s stainless arches we had made. He made it up and sent it in the spring but it has been nothing but issues. The fit was horrendous and though he made gestures to get it sorted, he never followed through. All 4 feet sat poorly with gaps to the inside or out ranging from 1/8” to 5/8” on the starboard forward mounting foot. The geometry was so off that every time I brought welders out to look, they either went into hiding and never returned calls and emails, or they promised to make it right but said it would be thousands (5+) to cut, refabricate, weld, polish and mount. As it is holding us back from sailing at the moment, I pulled it all off and put it in storage to sort out next summer. Though I don’t love the look o the Atlantic arch, I know several boats who have gone that route and do not complain. I would look at the new LG 350w panels from nearing in Ft Lauderdale. Two will fit nicely atop the Atlantic and give you good power. 

Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Ft Lauderdale marine center


On Nov 29, 2017, at 10:46 AM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Mark
We have 450 w solar panels on an Arc from Emek marine, works great, I added 2x100 watt on the rail and 2x100 watt flexible panels on the Bimini. Now we have two groups 450 and 400 watt, we are very pleased with the setup.
Considering adding 2x100 watt flexible panels on top of the spray hood.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259



can't open saloon floor panels

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, The mounts are articulating , so any movement  transferred to the mounts is not directly transferred to the deck. I installed a diagonal s.s tube to stiffen it up and I don't think at the top of my arch the lateral movement with a lot of force applied would be more than a quarter inch. So at deck level virtually nothing. I built my own S.S. solar frame and davits, very robust , and have sailed probably 3000 miles with dinghy hoisted and no visible sign of movement. Having said that , I like what others have done , a removable cable to a padeye to further stiffen things up , more the better. Hope all is good with you guys , been watching a lot of sailing in the Bay of Islands on YouTube ,looks sweeet ! 

Regards,
Pat & Diane
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

 
Hi,
With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 02 December 2017 at 04:20 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
 
Hi Mark,
I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch.  I added 4 150watt panels.  The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured.  Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale.
Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts.  The install is straightforward and clean.  I used the supplied backing plates.  There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats.  Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline.  I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
 
 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

karkauai
 

The arch attaches to the deck through "mortise and tenon" type fittings.  The small amount of side to side movement doesn't stress the fitting that is bolted to the deck.


Kent
S/V Kristy
Hi,

With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


On 02 December 2017 at 04:20 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Mark,
I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch.  I added 4 150watt panels.  The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured.  Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale.
Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts.  The install is straightforward and clean.  I used the supplied backing plates.  There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats.  Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline.  I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
 

 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box

karkauai
 

If you can arrange manufacture of these, I would like a spare, too.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243


Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I believe the original Amel electric bilge pump for the gray water bilge is 32 liters/min 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Dec 1, 2017 12:41, "James Sterling jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Most of the Jabsco 'designated' bilge pumps of this type such as their belt driven bellows/diaphragm models range from 3.5 to 8 gpm.  I think my current model is around 5 gpm.  I'm betting the original Amel pump was close to that also but may be wrong.  I see no reason the Sealand wouldn't serve as a replacement. All suggestions so far have been in the same general area.


S/V Longbow SM2K #418






Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app


On Thursday, November 30, 2017, 4:17:55 PM CST, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Oops, typo.  The T series pump is supposed to be rated at 300 GPH, not GPM,  sorry for not proof reading my previous post more carefully.


James
SV Suneno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 30, 2017, at 5:52 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoo groups.com> wrote:

Duane,


   No, my boat still has the original Amel installed diaphragm pump.  The T series pumps that I have had experience with were used for black water tank pump out.  So far none of my customers has managed to clog or kill one of these pumps.  The pump is supposed to move 300 GPM so I think it might be a little small for a primary bilge pump.  I suspect that this pump could be quite reliable as a bilge pump but do not have any experience to support that.  One concern would be whether the rubber used in the pump can handle oil that might be in the bilge,  perhaps someone knows?

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 30, 2017, at 3:54 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

James,


I'm just curious...is this your bilge pump?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box

Ryan Meador
 

I made two assumptions that are perhaps incorrect: I assumed that the lights share a buzzer via a pair of diodes at the helm, thus if a light is on, the buzzer is also on; and I assumed that the sensors cut power to the up/down motor at the same time they activate the light/buzzer.  I think I have seen such circuitry for the former in my boat, but who knows if it is original or if I'm remembering correctly.  Does anyone have electrical schematics for this whole system?  I don't believe it is in the pile of schematics I have, but I will try to remember to check.  It is not doing anything complicated, so we should be able to reverse engineer it even if we can't figure out how the old ones work.  Maybe I'll create a schematic this weekend if nobody has one already.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Fri, Dec 1, 2017 at 12:28 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Chuck,

on SM 299 the bow thruster has sensors clamped to the ram that lifts and lowers the thruster. These need to be properly positioned. The clamps can be loosened and the (little oblong black boxes) moved up or down as they set the start and stop points. Position by trial and error. 

Regards

Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 01 December 2017 at 11:00 "clacey9@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

Hi All,

I have been stricken with the dreaded bow thruster burn up! This has happened to a few of you so I am reaching out because we are stuck for a fix. The usual story - Hole in BT is sitting slightly higher than the pin-lock. The up-sensor was a bit erratic and probably allowed the BT to go up to high and jamming the up-down rod. My model does not have a fuse and sure enough we burnt up the motor. I now have a shiny new fabriqué en France motor and it is installed. When commanding the motor to go up from the helm it goes up. When commanding to go down it buzzes like it is already down. Rod does not move down. We are thinking it is one of the orange relays on the circuit board. We changed the diodes out to be sure it was not them. Does that sound right? Any ideas would be appreciated. We are trying to leave and this is keeping us dockside. Thanks in advance.

Chuck

s/v Joy

SM2K #388

 

 


 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

Ian Townsend
 

We installed the Atlantic Towers arch three years ago. Been very satisfied with it. But like others, not comfortable with the lateral sway. Using mostly standard rail hardware and a length of 1" SS rail, we fastened one end about halfway up the aft leg of the arch (attached to an Atlantic Towers collar) and the other to the deck just fwd of where the transom begins. We like the stiffness this brings to the entire fixture.

Ian Townsend
SM153
Loca Lola II 
New River, Fort Lauderdale, FL


On Dec 1, 2017, at 10:20 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mark,
I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch.  I added 4 150watt panels.  The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured.  Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale.
Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts.  The install is straightforward and clean.  I used the supplied backing plates.  There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats.  Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline.  I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


On 02 December 2017 at 04:20 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Mark,
I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch.  I added 4 150watt panels.  The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured.  Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale.
Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts.  The install is straightforward and clean.  I used the supplied backing plates.  There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats.  Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline.  I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
 

 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Chuck,

on SM 299 the bow thruster has sensors clamped to the ram that lifts and lowers the thruster. These need to be properly positioned. The clamps can be loosened and the (little oblong black boxes) moved up or down as they set the start and stop points. Position by trial and error. 

Regards

Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 01 December 2017 at 11:00 "clacey9@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi All,

I have been stricken with the dreaded bow thruster burn up! This has happened to a few of you so I am reaching out because we are stuck for a fix. The usual story - Hole in BT is sitting slightly higher than the pin-lock. The up-sensor was a bit erratic and probably allowed the BT to go up to high and jamming the up-down rod. My model does not have a fuse and sure enough we burnt up the motor. I now have a shiny new fabriqué en France motor and it is installed. When commanding the motor to go up from the helm it goes up. When commanding to go down it buzzes like it is already down. Rod does not move down. We are thinking it is one of the orange relays on the circuit board. We changed the diodes out to be sure it was not them. Does that sound right? Any ideas would be appreciated. We are trying to leave and this is keeping us dockside. Thanks in advance.

Chuck

s/v Joy

SM2K #388

 

 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

James Sterling
 

Most of the Jabsco 'designated' bilge pumps of this type such as their belt driven bellows/diaphragm models range from 3.5 to 8 gpm.  I think my current model is around 5 gpm.  I'm betting the original Amel pump was close to that also but may be wrong.  I see no reason the Sealand wouldn't serve as a replacement. All suggestions so far have been in the same general area.


S/V Longbow SM2K #418






Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app


On Thursday, November 30, 2017, 4:17:55 PM CST, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Oops, typo.  The T series pump is supposed to be rated at 300 GPH, not GPM,  sorry for not proof reading my previous post more carefully.


James
SV Suneno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 30, 2017, at 5:52 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Duane,


   No, my boat still has the original Amel installed diaphragm pump.  The T series pumps that I have had experience with were used for black water tank pump out.  So far none of my customers has managed to clog or kill one of these pumps.  The pump is supposed to move 300 GPM so I think it might be a little small for a primary bilge pump.  I suspect that this pump could be quite reliable as a bilge pump but do not have any experience to support that.  One concern would be whether the rubber used in the pump can handle oil that might be in the bilge,  perhaps someone knows?

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Nov 30, 2017, at 3:54 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


I'm just curious...is this your bilge pump?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Ok a bit more clarification trying not to repeat myself. When the helm command is disconnected the ram can be lowered and raised directly from the power supply in the BT compartment. All three sensors light correctly. When connected back up and commanded from the helm I get this. Command up ram works, sensors work and ram works. Command down and buzzer immediately buzzes and but no sensor light and no ram movement down. Any ideas what else to look for in this circuit.

Thx,
Chuck
s/v Joy

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 3:00 PM, clacey9@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi All,

I have been stricken with the dreaded bow thruster burn up! This has happened to a few of you so I am reaching out because we are stuck for a fix. The usual story - Hole in BT is sitting slightly higher than the pin-lock. The up-sensor was a bit erratic and probably allowed the BT to go up to high and jamming the up-down rod. My model does not have a fuse and sure enough we burnt up the motor. I now have a shiny new fabriqué en France motor and it is installed. When commanding the motor to go up from the helm it goes up. When commanding to go down it buzzes like it is already down. Rod does not move down. We are thinking it is one of the orange relays on the circuit board. We changed the diodes out to be sure it was not them. Does that sound right? Any ideas would be appreciated. We are trying to leave and this is keeping us dockside. Thanks in advance.

Chuck

s/v Joy

SM2K #388

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location

karkauai
 

Hi Mark,
I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch.  I added 4 150watt panels.  The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured.  Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale.
Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts.  The install is straightforward and clean.  I used the supplied backing plates.  There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats.  Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline.  I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Quantity and Type of Primary Rode

karkauai
 

I'm happy with 300ft of G40 10mm chain. When I replaced the 15 year old chain (200ft) I added another 100ft. The added weight seems to improve motion when hard on the wind in a sea (less slamming). I rarely anchor in water deeper than 30ft, but the extra rode is a plus when it's unavoidable.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243


[Amel Yacht Owners] Swimming platform

Sv Garulfo
 

Hello,

We need to make some changes to our swimming platform.
Has anyone needed to/managed to separate the two pieces of fibreglass either side from the stainless steel frame? These seem to be glued to transverse bars in addition the visible screws.
We hope to separate the fibreglass parts without breaking them.

Your comments and suggestions are very welcome.
Thanks in advance,

Soraya & Thomas
GARULFO
A54-122
Currently in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria