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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Patrick McAneny
Bill, Its been about four years since I installed mine and I think they gave a range to preload , say three to five inches . Not knowing better I chose midway four inches , I wish I had made it five.
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Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 9:41 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure. They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step. If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.
What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation. I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together. My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much. If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific recommendation
With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically r
educed. I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt". but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace.
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Volvo D3
Good morning all. I am having a problem with my D3 volvo. There was a near lightning strike and the CPU was fried among other things. Now no one can seem to program the new CPU has anyone else had or heard of a problem like this and if so how did they solve it? The mechanic has a Volvo computer and has even sent the CPU to a US volvo dealer so far no luck.
Thanks
Courtney
Trippin Amel 54
Stuck in Brunswick
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
greatketch@...
The only rubber in the T-series pumps in contact with pumped water are the joker valves.
The sealand joker valves (they call them "duckbill valves") are made of nitrile rubber, which is good for oil contact.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
greatketch@...
Danny,
When I installed mine I added a larger G10 backing plate and dug out almost all the balsa core under the feet and replaced it with heavily thickened epoxy. This has the dual benefit of preventing water intrusion into the core, and greatly increases the compression strength of the deck. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
greatketch@...
One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure. They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step. If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.
What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation. I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together. My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much. If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific recommendation With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically reduced. I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt". but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
James Alton
Steve,
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Sorry to read about the fit problems with the Emek arch. I wanted to make you aware that there is a pretty easy solution in dealing mounting pad fit issues if they are not too severe. The process is to first correct the fit so that you are within 1/4” or so since 5/8” is too much IMO. Then locate and drill to install the arch as you would if it fit properly. Insert some bolts to locate the pads and make a mark on the deck for the pads. Remove the arch, tape off the area that were marked for the pads and clean/abrade the area for bonding. Wax the bottom pads of the arch, then mix up a good epoxy such as West and thicken to a consistency about like peanut butter using colloidal and high density additive. I also like to add some barrier coat additive to provide more UV protection in case the surface coating ever fails. Apply copious amounts of the epoxy in a way to minimize air entrapment and then set the arch back in place and temp. secure with enough bolts to accurately locate the pads. Do not tighten the bolts since you do not want to put stress in the arch but do wax the bolts before inserting. Neatly tool the epoxy to shape. I usually use about a 30 degree bevel so that the epoxy pad is a bit wider at the base for additional strength so if you use this adjust the sanded area on the deck as needed. Let your epoxy cure and then pop your arch back off. You know have an absolutely perfect fit between the arch and the deck. Sand up your epoxy pads, protect the edges of the pads with paint or gel coat and bed/install your arch as you normally would. I have so far never had a problem with any of the epoxy pads and like to use them under hardware mounted to the deck that is going to be stressed since with a perfect fit you don’t have hard spots where one edge of a pad is pressing into the fibreglass which often causes crazing or cracks over time. Best of luck, James SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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can't open saloon floor panels
Ryan Meador
Hi all, My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones. A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open. I chalked it up to humidity. But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough. None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected. My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now. The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated. The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor. Any idea what has happened? I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it. Thanks, Ryan SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Patrick McAneny
Danny, The mounts are articulating , so any movement transferred to the mounts is not directly transferred to the deck. I installed a diagonal s.s tube to stiffen it up and I don't think at the top of my arch the lateral movement with a lot of force applied would be more than a quarter inch. So at deck level virtually nothing. I built my own S.S. solar frame and davits, very robust , and have sailed probably 3000 miles with dinghy hoisted and no visible sign of movement. Having said that , I like what others have done , a removable cable to a padeye to further stiffen things up , more the better. Hope all is good with you guys , been watching a lot of sailing in the Bay of Islands on YouTube ,looks sweeet !
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Regards,
Pat & Diane
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 12:38 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location Hi,
With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
The arch attaches to the deck through "mortise and tenon" type fittings. The small amount of side to side movement doesn't stress the fitting that is bolted to the deck. Kent S/V Kristy Hi, With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box
If you can arrange manufacture of these, I would like a spare, too. Kent S/V Kristy SM243
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
I believe the original Amel electric bilge pump for the gray water bilge is 32 liters/min CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Dec 1, 2017 12:41, "James Sterling jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box
Ryan Meador
I made two assumptions that are perhaps incorrect: I assumed that the lights share a buzzer via a pair of diodes at the helm, thus if a light is on, the buzzer is also on; and I assumed that the sensors cut power to the up/down motor at the same time they activate the light/buzzer. I think I have seen such circuitry for the former in my boat, but who knows if it is original or if I'm remembering correctly. Does anyone have electrical schematics for this whole system? I don't believe it is in the pile of schematics I have, but I will try to remember to check. It is not doing anything complicated, so we should be able to reverse engineer it even if we can't figure out how the old ones work. Maybe I'll create a schematic this weekend if nobody has one already. Ryan SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
On Fri, Dec 1, 2017 at 12:28 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
We installed the Atlantic Towers arch three years ago. Been very satisfied with it. But like others, not comfortable with the lateral sway. Using mostly standard rail hardware and a length of 1" SS rail, we fastened one end about halfway up the aft leg of the arch (attached to an Atlantic Towers collar) and the other to the deck just fwd of where the transom begins. We like the stiffness this brings to the entire fixture. Ian Townsend SM153 Loca Lola II New River, Fort Lauderdale, FL
On Dec 1, 2017, at 10:20 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Chuck, on SM 299 the bow thruster has sensors clamped to the ram that lifts and lowers the thruster. These need to be properly positioned. The clamps can be loosened and the (little oblong black boxes) moved up or down as they set the start and stop points. Position by trial and error. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
James Sterling
Most of the Jabsco 'designated' bilge pumps of this type such as their belt driven bellows/diaphragm models range from 3.5 to 8 gpm. I think my current model is around 5 gpm. I'm betting the original Amel pump was close to that also but may be wrong. I see no reason the Sealand wouldn't serve as a replacement. All suggestions so far have been in the same general area. S/V Longbow SM2K #418
On Thursday, November 30, 2017, 4:17:55 PM CST, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
Oops, typo. The T series pump is supposed to be rated at 300 GPH, not GPM, sorry for not proof reading my previous post more carefully. James SV Suneno, Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thuster Control Box
Ok a bit more clarification trying not to repeat myself. When the helm command is disconnected the ram can be lowered and raised directly from the power supply in the BT compartment. All three sensors light correctly. When connected back up and commanded from the helm I get this. Command up ram works, sensors work and ram works. Command down and buzzer immediately buzzes and but no sensor light and no ram movement down. Any ideas what else to look for in this circuit. Thx, Chuck s/v Joy
On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 3:00 PM, clacey9@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Hi Mark, I just added an Atlantic Towers arch with solar on the arch. I added 4 150watt panels. The supports for the panels sold by Atlantic Towers didn't work with my panels and new supports were manufactured. Atlantic didn't want to take their supports back, so I have them for sale. Craig Briggs helped me install the arch...it took 2 1/2 days after a couple of mis-starts. The install is straightforward and clean. I used the supplied backing plates. There is some side-to-side movement which I am so far dealing with when at sea with crossing lines from the arch to the aft cleats. Attaching the arch to the lifelines helps some, but I will probably add removable cables angling from the arch to a pad-eye in the center of the deck below the aft lifeline. I would use them when at sea, and remove them (at least the starboard one) when at anchor or med-moored. Kent S/V Kristy SM243
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Quantity and Type of Primary Rode
I'm happy with 300ft of G40 10mm chain. When I replaced the 15 year old chain (200ft) I added another 100ft. The added weight seems to improve motion when hard on the wind in a sea (less slamming). I rarely anchor in water deeper than 30ft, but the extra rode is a plus when it's unavoidable.
Kent S/V Kristy SM 243
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Swimming platform
Sv Garulfo
Hello, We need to make some changes to our swimming platform. Has anyone needed to/managed to separate the two pieces of fibreglass either side from the stainless steel frame? These seem to be glued to transverse bars in addition the visible screws. We hope to separate the fibreglass parts without breaking them. Your comments and suggestions are very welcome. Thanks in advance, Soraya & Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Currently in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
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