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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box
JOHN HAYES
Hi Chuck
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Count me in My Santorin is 1991 vintage John Hayes Nga Waka Wellington New Zealand
On 3/12/2017, at 9:21 AM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Charcoal Filter
Duane
Do not know how much it reduce the flow, but we added a similar filter and filter all the freash water. We have not notice any problem at all with the water flow, we have a Jabsco par 5 pump. Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box
Porter McRoberts
Does the same box exist on the 54!
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If so count me in too. Thanks! Porter 54-152 S/V Ibis
On Dec 2, 2017, at 1:38 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Bill, Have to agree with you. No bilge pump of a size you could fit in a boat would deal with water coming in from a hole in the hull. Anyone who has in water swapped or removed for cleaning a through hull transducer would have any illusions about this. The volume of water gushing in from this very moderate hole is sobering. Henri's watertight bulkheads are the only sensible protection from a breach in the hull. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Amel 54 dishwasher failure (and solution)
Sv Garulfo
Of potential interest to 54-ians with a Dometic dishwasher. We had an issue with it, leaking heavily and showing error code 10 (issue with the water intake, as per the manual). The problem was that the conduit to some sort of "there is enough water in the dishwasher" captor was very dirty, preventing it from stopping the inflow until the no-intake water error was reported. Unfortunately that means the overflow too. The solution was simply to clean that conduit, after removing the plastic ring that covers it at the bottom of the inside of the dishwasher (3 screws) underneath the metal filter. No need to remove the dishwasher from its location to do that, although we did to track to issue down, and it's fairly straightforward. Hope that will help Thomas & Soraya Garulfo Amel 54 #122 Gran Canaria, Canary Island, Spain
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box
I’m not sure I have the same box but if I do, I’d like to keep a spare since they are now unavailable. Can someone post a picture of what we are talking about, please.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising – St. Lucia, the crime island www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
I too would join in a group order for a spare bow thruster control box.
Derick Gates SM2K#400 Brava Currently on the hard in Bailey's boatyard, Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
greatketch@...
I had a boss once whose favorite line was, "Show me the data." I learned a lot from him... Ratings are all fine and good, but the real world can always change things. So I just timed how long it took my Amel original diaphragm pump to move 12 liters of water: 42 seconds. A flow rate of: 17 liters per minute (or 4.5GPM) I have read the "32 l/min" number several times, but don't know its original source. I think of bilge pumps in two categories: Dewatering and emergency. Dewatering is just the normal day to day emptying of the bilge. On most boats that would include shaft drip, rain water leaks, etc. We don't have those, so for us it is just the routine emptying of gray water from the sump. The primary pump selection issue here is not about capacity, but rather picking a pump that will not choke on any lumpy bits from the galley sink. Given that requirement, we do not have a lot of options. An emergency bilge pump is another matter. Any hole in the hull below the water line will overwhelm most bilge pumps. 8gpm is a good number for a 1/2 inch hole, and the flow rate rises with the square of the diameter... so a 1 inch hole would be 24gpm, and a 2 inch hole pushes 100gpm. That's a LOT. A boat like an Amel with watertight bulkheads has an extra issue. Any hole outside the engine room can not drain to the bilge anywhere near as fast as water comes in from the ocean. So the size of the pump in the sump doesn't matter. My own personnel takeaway is that a bilge pump that could actually keep up with a significant hole in the boat (on an Amel, maybe a broken engine raw water hose?) is larger than any recommendation I have seen, and borders on impractical. If you have a hole in the boat too big to plug with your thumb, and you can't stop it, you are sinking--eventually. (Watertight bulkheads aside, of course!) Ratings on centrifugal bilge pumps are a pretty sad joke. They are all rated at Zero head, and that's just plain goofy. Most of them don't even supply a curve of output flow vs head, and even if they did most people would not know how to interpret it ("pressure head" is much more complex than just discharge height.) In a real world installation you'd be very lucky to get even 1/4 of the flow rate listed on the box. All that is a very long winded way of saying... With all the variables and considerations I don't pretend to know what a "proper" capacity is. I do not even know what kind of logical criteria one would use to set one. I have seen many "authorities" and committees proclaim a number, but their logic is either (arguably) flawed or not specified. On Harmonie we have:
I'm comfortable with that list. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL ---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote : Bill, Thanks for the confirmation on the duckbills being nitrile in the Sealand pump. I suspect that this pump would be great for pumping the sump. What is you opinion about the capacity of this pump in regards to being the sole electric bilge pump aboard? I am used to installing centrifugal pumps in boats this size with ratings 10X higher. I think something as small as a 1/2” hole 4’ below the WL would flow almost 8 GPM…. James Maramu #220
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Charcoal Filter
Duane Siegfri
I'm planning on adding a charcoal filter prior to the watermaker to remove chlorine. As long as I'm adding it, it seems reasonable to filter all the fresh water for the boat. Does anyone have an idea how much a 10" carbon block filter (like this: https://airwaterice.com/filters/10-5-micron-carbon-block.html) would reduce the flow and pressure at the faucets in the boat? We have the Marco UP3 4gpm fresh water pump and it seems to do well without the filter. I just don't know how much reduction in flow I'll have with the carbon filter in line. I checked the flow at the kitchen tap at 1.5gpm, but the pump was not running at full speed so it's hard to tell what it could pump with more head loss from the filter. In the forward head it was at 3.0gpm. With both the kitchen and fwd head faucet on the flow from the galley faucet total flow was 3.2gpm. Looking at the Flow vs. Pressure diagram from Marco, the pump is operating toward the high pressure side of the pump curve. Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Ryan, Have you checked the hinges, Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: Bow Thuster Control Box
I too would join in a group order for a spare bow thruster control box.
Derick Gates SM2K#400 Brava Currently on the hard in Bailey's boatyard, Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
James Alton
Bill,
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Thanks for the confirmation on the duckbills being nitrile in the Sealand pump. I suspect that this pump would be great for pumping the sump. What is you opinion about the capacity of this pump in regards to being the sole electric bilge pump aboard? I am used to installing centrifugal pumps in boats this size with ratings 10X higher. I think something as small as a 1/2” hole 4’ below the WL would flow almost 8 GPM…. James Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Patrick McAneny
Bill, Its been about four years since I installed mine and I think they gave a range to preload , say three to five inches . Not knowing better I chose midway four inches , I wish I had made it five.
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Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 9:41 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure. They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step. If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.
What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation. I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together. My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much. If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific recommendation
With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically r
educed. I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt". but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace.
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Volvo D3
Good morning all. I am having a problem with my D3 volvo. There was a near lightning strike and the CPU was fried among other things. Now no one can seem to program the new CPU has anyone else had or heard of a problem like this and if so how did they solve it? The mechanic has a Volvo computer and has even sent the CPU to a US volvo dealer so far no luck.
Thanks
Courtney
Trippin Amel 54
Stuck in Brunswick
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
greatketch@...
The only rubber in the T-series pumps in contact with pumped water are the joker valves.
The sealand joker valves (they call them "duckbill valves") are made of nitrile rubber, which is good for oil contact.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
greatketch@...
Danny,
When I installed mine I added a larger G10 backing plate and dug out almost all the balsa core under the feet and replaced it with heavily thickened epoxy. This has the dual benefit of preventing water intrusion into the core, and greatly increases the compression strength of the deck. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
greatketch@...
One of the things you need to do when installing the Atlantic Arch is to be sure you "preload" the structure. They do mention this in their instructions, but if you talk to them they REALLY emphasize the importance of this step. If you skip this step, or under do it, the arch will be quite unstable and sway back and forth a LOT.
What they mean by this is the cut width of the arch should be several inches wider than the location of the mounting feet, and then pulling them together to complete the installation. I think mine was about 5 inches wide, and I used a spanish windlass to pull the legs together. My recollection of the instructions was that they didn't really talk about this much. If you are installing one, it is worth a call to their support line to get a detailed and specific recommendation With the parts stressed in this way the side to side motion is dramatically reduced. I have pretty heavy solar panels on top of mine, and I added a diagonal brace because "it can't hurt". but I did not notice much change in motion with and without the brace. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
James Alton
Steve,
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Sorry to read about the fit problems with the Emek arch. I wanted to make you aware that there is a pretty easy solution in dealing mounting pad fit issues if they are not too severe. The process is to first correct the fit so that you are within 1/4” or so since 5/8” is too much IMO. Then locate and drill to install the arch as you would if it fit properly. Insert some bolts to locate the pads and make a mark on the deck for the pads. Remove the arch, tape off the area that were marked for the pads and clean/abrade the area for bonding. Wax the bottom pads of the arch, then mix up a good epoxy such as West and thicken to a consistency about like peanut butter using colloidal and high density additive. I also like to add some barrier coat additive to provide more UV protection in case the surface coating ever fails. Apply copious amounts of the epoxy in a way to minimize air entrapment and then set the arch back in place and temp. secure with enough bolts to accurately locate the pads. Do not tighten the bolts since you do not want to put stress in the arch but do wax the bolts before inserting. Neatly tool the epoxy to shape. I usually use about a 30 degree bevel so that the epoxy pad is a bit wider at the base for additional strength so if you use this adjust the sanded area on the deck as needed. Let your epoxy cure and then pop your arch back off. You know have an absolutely perfect fit between the arch and the deck. Sand up your epoxy pads, protect the edges of the pads with paint or gel coat and bed/install your arch as you normally would. I have so far never had a problem with any of the epoxy pads and like to use them under hardware mounted to the deck that is going to be stressed since with a perfect fit you don’t have hard spots where one edge of a pad is pressing into the fibreglass which often causes crazing or cracks over time. Best of luck, James SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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can't open saloon floor panels
Ryan Meador
Hi all, My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones. A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open. I chalked it up to humidity. But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough. None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected. My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now. The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated. The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor. Any idea what has happened? I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it. Thanks, Ryan SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
Patrick McAneny
Danny, The mounts are articulating , so any movement transferred to the mounts is not directly transferred to the deck. I installed a diagonal s.s tube to stiffen it up and I don't think at the top of my arch the lateral movement with a lot of force applied would be more than a quarter inch. So at deck level virtually nothing. I built my own S.S. solar frame and davits, very robust , and have sailed probably 3000 miles with dinghy hoisted and no visible sign of movement. Having said that , I like what others have done , a removable cable to a padeye to further stiffen things up , more the better. Hope all is good with you guys , been watching a lot of sailing in the Bay of Islands on YouTube ,looks sweeet !
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Regards,
Pat & Diane
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Dec 1, 2017 12:38 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location Hi,
With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar Panel Location
The arch attaches to the deck through "mortise and tenon" type fittings. The small amount of side to side movement doesn't stress the fitting that is bolted to the deck. Kent S/V Kristy Hi, With those tall arches and the tendency for sway I would be concerned about the stress on the fiberglass where the mountings are attached. That sway would translate into considerable lever action on the mounting points. Over time watch for star fracturing of the gel coat. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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