Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] maud

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Maud

Try sav@...

Paul LaFrance




From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2017 9:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] maud
 
 




hi all i'm trying to contact maud but keep getting my emails returned here is the address i'm using av@... any suggestions
cheers
courtney
54 trippin'


maud

Courtney Gorman
 




hi all i'm trying to contact maud but keep getting my emails returned here is the address i'm using av@... any suggestions
cheers
courtney
54 trippin'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Batteries

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the link Bill,  I had not come across that document before.   Or if I did, I discounted it, as it was really focused on their industrial batteries.    I had found some more general specifications documents and guidelines.  

It sounds like I will need to do some checking of the specific gravity.   The document recommends that the battery stabilize for an hour to get the most accurate reading.  Is that your typical practice.     

In addition, I think that I will continue to periodically record the morning voltage and overnight amp/hr consumption as an easy indicator of any changes.  

Best Regards,  Dan & Lori Carlson, SM#387, sv BeBe


On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 9:48 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Dan,

For flooded cell batteries like yours the absolute "gold standard" for determining state of charge is to measure specific gravity of the electrolyte. This tells you a lot about the health of the batteries.  Everything else is a poor imitation of that.  It's a lot simpler than a discharge test, but a lot harder than reading a meter!

On my Victron MPPT controller I can set any parameter to any value.  If I was leaving the battery for a long period unloaded and was depending on the solar panels as my sole charging source, I would set the absorption voltage to be the same as the float voltage to hack the system to maintain a steady float voltage level.

On your system, 27.2 volts seems a trival high for float voltage (typically 27.0 for flooded cells at 25C) but very low for absorption voltage (which can be as high as 29.6V at 25C)

You might find this from Deka helpful.  I doubt they distribute it with every battery they sell... 

It is a bit a a slog through, but worth it!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi Bill,  thanks for the response.  I appreciate  the information on the Victron  controller.  It is on my list to take a deeper dive into exactly how it works.  And perhaps when the boat minder came and measured the voltage each month (And took a photo) the 27.2 was reflecting the absorption level, not the subsequent float at a lower temperature adjusted level? 

The batteries are DEKA DC31DT "Marine Master" deep cycle lead acid, with "Low antimony, low maintenance grids."  You have to peel off the battery label to access the flush caps on the top, and there was not an obvious maintenance schedule innthe product information.  

I do understand that the xantrex measures current flow, but it also measures the voltage, which is another indicator of state of charge.  That is why I think tracking amp/hr usage overnight and the morning  voltage before the sun significantly kicks in might give me some reasonable objective data.  At the same time, I recognise that the morning voltage the xantrex shows is from the battery under a load, so it cannot be direct reflection of state of charge.  As for individual battery performance, that seems to require measuring each battery separately with a battery tester, which I only do every couple of months.  

I will also look into the desulphating process as well.

Going back to the MPPT behavior: my first thought would be to see if the controller could be set to only the float level?   If tjat is not possible, then perhaps leaving something that would only use enough current over night to allow the batteries to absorb that initial morning bulk/absorption period befire the battery then goes to float.

Thanks and regards, Dan and Lori Carlson, SM#387, sv BeBe

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway Removal, another method.

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Ryan!

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Batteries

rossirossix4
 

Worth reading....

"3.7 Battery charging information The charge controller starts a new charge cycle every morning, when the sun starts shining. Default setting: The maximum duration of the absorption period is determined by the battery voltage measured just before the solar charger starts up in the morning: Battery voltage Vb (@start-up) Maximum absorption time Vb < 23,8V 6h 23,8V < Vb < 24,4V 4h 24,4V < Vb < 25,2V 2h Vb > 25,2V 1h (divide voltages by 2 for a 12V system) If the absorption period is interrupted due to a cloud or due to a power hungry load, the absorption process will resume when absorption voltage is reached again later on the day, until the absorption period has been completed. The absorption period also ends when the output current of the solar charger drops to less than 2Amps, not because of low solar array output but because the battery is fully charged (tail current cut off). This algorithm prevents over charge of the battery due to daily absorption charging."

From my Victron MMPT manual, page 10. It is in most of the current Victron MMPT manuals, e.g. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-BlueSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-100-30---100-50-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE-ul.pdf
Cheers,
Bob, KAIMI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

James Alton
 

Bill,

   This is an interesting discussion,  I feel that I am learning a lot..the good the bad and the ugly….

   The batteries for the Maramu were installed in the engine room by Amel.  On the SM, the pass thru is wide enough to accommodate the batteries but I don’t think that this is possible on the Maramu due to space constraints.  In this location as you point out,  heat could be a significant factor in battery life.  (this is one of the reasons I installed an 8D Gel temporarily under the Vee bunk on the Port side.  The Gel battery is a very clean battery not requiring a battery box.)  I am considering future options to move the house batteries into the bow of the boat which would get them out of the heat of the engine room and also help trim the boat fore/aft.   The large draw items such as the thruster are in the bow so it seems like this might be something that could work…any input?  I am guessing (but do not know for sure) that since the degradation is a chemical process that the accelerated deterioration occurs only during the times that the engine is being used?   While damage was done during the heating periods, hopefully there is not ongoing damage when the engine room returns to ambient temperatures, so if this is correct unless one heats the engine room continuously for the life of the battery the life would not actually cut in half?    

    I have been reading that newer sealed  lead acid batteries used as starter batteries for cars are considerably more heat tolerant than those of the past.  The 2015 BCI Failure Mode Study reported an average life expectancy of 55 months under the hood and one additional year if the battery were kept in the trunk.  I don’t know if this benefit has been built into the batteries commonly used in our boats.

    Lead acid batteries are not too energy efficient so you might lose 15% of the power in charging the battery and if you discharge rapidly, you can lose up to 40%.  How much of that energy loss ends up as heat in the battery I wonder?  You make an interesting point about the Firefly batteries possibly running cooler due to the higher efficiency.  Again, it will certainly be interesting to hear your reports!   Thanks for sharing.

James

SV Sueno,
Maramu #220 

  

On Dec 14, 2017, at 7:12 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Firefly specs the battery output up to as hot as 50C, but it does come with a caveat in their manual:


The optimum operating temperature for a lead-acid battery is 25°C (77°F). As a rule of thumb, every 8-10°C (14-18°F) rise in temperature will cut the battery life in half. 

That's a pretty standard rule of thumb that any chemist would use for a chemical reaction, and  I believe it is at least approximately true for all Lead-acid batteries.

Where Firefly might have a bit of an advantage is they have high charge efficiency, and very low internal resistance (specified as 4 milliohms) so they generate less internal heat during normal charge/discharge cycles.  They MIGHT run a little bit cooler in the same ambient environment than other valve regulated batteries.  On the other hand, a flooded cell that is generating gas will be losing a lot of heat that way, so I won't put money on it either way!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Almost ready to be out sailing again!





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

greatketch@...
 

Firefly specs the battery output up to as hot as 50C, but it does come with a caveat in their manual:

The optimum operating temperature for a lead-acid battery is 25°C (77°F). As a rule of thumb, every 8-10°C (14-18°F) rise in temperature will cut the battery life in half. 

That's a pretty standard rule of thumb that any chemist would use for a chemical reaction, and  I believe it is at least approximately true for all Lead-acid batteries.

Where Firefly might have a bit of an advantage is they have high charge efficiency, and very low internal resistance (specified as 4 milliohms) so they generate less internal heat during normal charge/discharge cycles.  They MIGHT run a little bit cooler in the same ambient environment than other valve regulated batteries.  On the other hand, a flooded cell that is generating gas will be losing a lot of heat that way, so I won't put money on it either way!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Almost ready to be out sailing again!



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

greatketch@...
 

My primary battery charger is a Victron Inverter/Charger MultiPlus 24/3000/70  Just about every parameter on this is adjustable through a USB connection to a PC. It's a very impressive piece of kit with a great feature set.

I have the 20 year old Techpro charger that is used to boost the charge current up to 100 amps.  It is fine during bulk and absorption charge, but it's float voltage is too high to use continuously when plugged in to shore power.

My solar controller is a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50  This is also fully adjustable, but through a bluetooth connection to PC, tablet, or phone.

The 24 volt alternator on my propulsion engine is a wimpy 50 amp, internally regulated at 27.3 volts.  I have a switch in the field wire so I can shut it off on the odd chance we motor so long that it fills the batteries.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Almost ready to get out sailing again!

---In amelyachtowners@..., <alexramseyer@...> wrote :

Bill, which charge voltage controle system / unit do you use in your boat?
Regards, Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


On Thursday, December 14, 2017, 1:06:12 AM GMT-4, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Yes, just about everytime I chance something, there end up being some unexpected problems to deal with, so nothing surprising there…  The charge acceptance sounds very encouraging.  I assume that this could help you reduce the generator hours which effectively makes the Fireflies a bit less expensive overall.   Are the Firefly batteries anymore heat tolerant  than the average lead acid battery?   Best of luck and keep me updated.

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Dec 14, 2017, at 2:56 PM, Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Bill, which charge voltage controle system / unit do you use in your boat?
Regards, Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


On Thursday, December 14, 2017, 1:06:12 AM GMT-4, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

In a previous post I explained my rational for purchasing Firefly batteries in this battery replacement cycle.  They arrived a few days ago (finally!) and here are my initial impressions.


Physical fit:  They are Group 31 batteries, which is nothing but a specification on the physical size of the battery case, so they should be drop in replacements, right?  Wrong!  They are a little bit higher than our old Lifeline batteries, so I needed to trim a bit off the wood brace on the bottom of the compartment lid.  Also, the terminals are high enough that the battery terminal fuses I had been using no longer fit under the lid, so I swapped four 125 amp terminal fuses for a single 500 amp ANL fuse.  Neither was a big deal, but both were annoying.


It is very not fair to evaluate batteries when first installed.  Batteries take at least 10 charge/discha rge cycles to settle in to their long term groove.  That said...  


One of the reasons I went with these was their higher charge acceptance rate.  Wow.  What a difference.  Our Lifeline AGMs (which are very good at rapid charging) would taper down to 18 amps charge rate by the time they got to 85% charge.  The Fireflys were still accepting over 50 amps at 85% charge...  Once they have settled in and I have a bit more experience with them I'll post more hard data, but so far, they look like they will at least match my expectations.


Again, these are not for everybody. They are expensive, hard to get, and need proper charge voltage control (especially on float) that not every charging system can do. The benefits of the extra cost really depend on how you use your boat.


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Fort Lauderdale, FL








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Bill, which charge voltage controle system / unit do you use in your boat?
Regards, Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


On Thursday, December 14, 2017, 1:06:12 AM GMT-4, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

In a previous post I explained my rational for purchasing Firefly batteries in this battery replacement cycle.  They arrived a few days ago (finally!) and here are my initial impressions.


Physical fit:  They are Group 31 batteries, which is nothing but a specification on the physical size of the battery case, so they should be drop in replacements, right?  Wrong!  They are a little bit higher than our old Lifeline batteries, so I needed to trim a bit off the wood brace on the bottom of the compartment lid.  Also, the terminals are high enough that the battery terminal fuses I had been using no longer fit under the lid, so I swapped four 125 amp terminal fuses for a single 500 amp ANL fuse.  Neither was a big deal, but both were annoying.


It is very not fair to evaluate batteries when first installed.  Batteries take at least 10 charge/discharge cycles to settle in to their long term groove.  That said...  


One of the reasons I went with these was their higher charge acceptance rate.  Wow.  What a difference.  Our Lifeline AGMs (which are very good at rapid charging) would taper down to 18 amps charge rate by the time they got to 85% charge.  The Fireflys were still accepting over 50 amps at 85% charge...  Once they have settled in and I have a bit more experience with them I'll post more hard data, but so far, they look like they will at least match my expectations.


Again, these are not for everybody. They are expensive, hard to get, and need proper charge voltage control (especially on float) that not every charging system can do. The benefits of the extra cost really depend on how you use your boat.


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Fort Lauderdale, FL






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

James Alton
 

Ryan,

   I am currently in Nova Scotia and sometimes cruise late in the season with my Loki Yawl.  Even though she is a wooden hull, I still get a considerable amount of condensation at times during that time of the year.    With a single skin glass hull, it would be natural to have more than a wooden hull.  It really does sound to me like you just have a bit of swelling going on and that you are not doing anything wrong. Plywood is a lot more stable than solid wood so won’t swell as much but if the clearance is already pretty tight it doesn’t take much.  I note that the floor panels in my Maramu are snug and one is even tight with the boat located in Sardinia where the air is very dry during the summer.   Perhaps Amel normally fits these panels pretty tight on the SM as well?  It’s ironic that tight fitting panels seem to be one of the curses of a quality boat in a way since the worker that takes pride in making the joints in a bulkhead almost invisible may have a hard time leaving enough space in the floor panels to allow for swelling.  When I am fitting planking to a wooden boat, I try to get down to 5 thousandths using a feeler gauge… I just can’t help myself. (grin)   Regardless, if you plan to keep your boat in Northern waters it sounds like you will need to do a little trimming but it should not take much.  If you have a low angle block plane you can slowly take off just what you need without making a big mess inside the boat and vacuum up the inert shavings. Check to be sure that you are cutting the edges square as you go..  I would then sand to smooth and radius all edges and reseal the exposed edges of the floor panels with a couple of coats of varnish for protection.   The finish could wait until the weather is warm so that you don’t have to breath the fumes.  Again, since plywood is quite stable it won’t shrink much, so if you only take of what is needed, I doubt that you will even notice the fine gap in the fit of the panels once things dry out.  Having some extra room may also prevent future damage to the edges of these panels.

   It sounds like you understand relative humidity.  Yes, if the water temperature is above well above the dew point as in your example of the -10C outside air and the water at +9C your boat will be dry.  I have had great luck drying out boat storage buildings during the damp fall by venting the buildings when the cold dry air moves in such as the -10C weather that you mentioned.  When you capture that cold dry air and warm it back up to you +10C it will be super dry and help dry the boat out.  

Best of luck,

James 
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Dec 14, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi James,
Yes, at times there has been a bit of condensation in some of the bilge areas.  I believe it is coming from the topsides, not below the waterline.  The water is still 48°F/9°C.  The air has been down to 13°F/-10°C (last night; I would expect to see only a few more days all winter at that temperature or colder).  I haven't seen any sweating directly on the surfaces exposed to water, but I have seen the occasional drop run from places higher up which I can't see directly.  I am indeed measuring the humidity at table height... I will put a sensor in the bilge and see what it says.  I keep the boat heated to a minimum of 50°F/10°C (I think it got down to 48°F in the engine room last night, which is not actively heated).  I have been vigilant at wiping up water when I see it, but I can't do it 24/7.  With the ambient humidity being so low, I haven't seen any condensation at all in a few days.  With my old boat, it was usually just a few weeks in the fall and spring where I would have condensation, and most of the winter it was dry enough that it wasn't an issue.  If the online calculator I found is to be trusted, the dew point inside the boat should be right around freezing right now, so there won't be condensation on most surfaces (and if there is, it would be frost).  I am confident the panels are in the right locations and orientations as they perfectly span the bulkheads (ribs?) beneath the sole and the rubber lines line up with the rest of the sole.  I'll try out the feeler gauge... I've been looking for an excuse to buy one for years.

Obviously, I need to sail south next winter!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 11:00 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Well I don’t know about that…  I personally really enjoy the warmth of the varnished wooden panels in my Amel….


James

On Dec 14, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Yahoo! Mail sammie.whammie@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Wood has no place in a boat.


On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:52 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
Ryan,

   Is there any moisture at all present in the bilge area where the panels are becoming tight?  I would check the hull surfaces and the underside of the floor.   Are you taking your  humidity readings at the level of the floor or higher up in the cabin?   I am guessing that you are heating the boat to well above the current temperature of the water?   If the instrument that you are using to read off the relative humidity is well above the floor then the relative humidity in the bilge could be much higher.  For instance, if you are reading  20C and 53% relative humidity in a location several feet above the floor level, that same air when cooled to 10C in the bilges from the cold water will be at saturation.  (100% relative humidity)    I am confused as to why drying the panels did not seem to help but perhaps the floor itself has swelled enough to create the fit problems?  This is a hard problem to troubleshoot from a distance but in general I usually find that when wooden parts  fit properly when the wood is known to be dry begin to become tight that moisture/swelling of the wood is usually the culprit.   Perhaps the reason that the panels are the tight only in the main cabin is because the cabin sole is because the athwartship dimension of the total panel is the greatest in this area of the boat hence more total swelling.  I assume that you have checked to be sure that the panels are being inserted into the correct location? 

  It might be worth taking a feeler gauge and checking to see where the panels are actually binding since that might provide a clue as to what is going on.  See if there is a pattern that repeats when comparing the Port and Stb. side.  I don’t know how long your lift out panels are but if wood swells unevenly you can end up with a curved shape that might show up from taking a few measurements.  The feeler gauge will also show you the tight areas that you will need to trim if it comes to that...

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
  
On Dec 13, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@gmail.com> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:
 
Ryan,

   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open..

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelya chtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:
 
Hi Ryan,
Have you checked the hinges,
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@...  [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:

 
 
Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
 

 

















Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

Ryan Meador
 

Hi James,
Yes, at times there has been a bit of condensation in some of the bilge areas.  I believe it is coming from the topsides, not below the waterline.  The water is still 48°F/9°C.  The air has been down to 13°F/-10°C (last night; I would expect to see only a few more days all winter at that temperature or colder).  I haven't seen any sweating directly on the surfaces exposed to water, but I have seen the occasional drop run from places higher up which I can't see directly.  I am indeed measuring the humidity at table height... I will put a sensor in the bilge and see what it says.  I keep the boat heated to a minimum of 50°F/10°C (I think it got down to 48°F in the engine room last night, which is not actively heated).  I have been vigilant at wiping up water when I see it, but I can't do it 24/7.  With the ambient humidity being so low, I haven't seen any condensation at all in a few days.  With my old boat, it was usually just a few weeks in the fall and spring where I would have condensation, and most of the winter it was dry enough that it wasn't an issue.  If the online calculator I found is to be trusted, the dew point inside the boat should be right around freezing right now, so there won't be condensation on most surfaces (and if there is, it would be frost).  I am confident the panels are in the right locations and orientations as they perfectly span the bulkheads (ribs?) beneath the sole and the rubber lines line up with the rest of the sole.  I'll try out the feeler gauge... I've been looking for an excuse to buy one for years.

Obviously, I need to sail south next winter!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 11:00 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Well I don’t know about that…  I personally really enjoy the warmth of the varnished wooden panels in my Amel….


James

On Dec 14, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Yahoo! Mail sammie.whammie@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Wood has no place in a boat.


On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:52 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
Ryan,

   Is there any moisture at all present in the bilge area where the panels are becoming tight?  I would check the hull surfaces and the underside of the floor.   Are you taking your  humidity readings at the level of the floor or higher up in the cabin?   I am guessing that you are heating the boat to well above the current temperature of the water?   If the instrument that you are using to read off the relative humidity is well above the floor then the relative humidity in the bilge could be much higher.  For instance, if you are reading  20C and 53% relative humidity in a location several feet above the floor level, that same air when cooled to 10C in the bilges from the cold water will be at saturation.  (100% relative humidity)    I am confused as to why drying the panels did not seem to help but perhaps the floor itself has swelled enough to create the fit problems?  This is a hard problem to troubleshoot from a distance but in general I usually find that when wooden parts  fit properly when the wood is known to be dry begin to become tight that moisture/swelling of the wood is usually the culprit.   Perhaps the reason that the panels are the tight only in the main cabin is because the cabin sole is because the athwartship dimension of the total panel is the greatest in this area of the boat hence more total swelling.  I assume that you have checked to be sure that the panels are being inserted into the correct location? 

  It might be worth taking a feeler gauge and checking to see where the panels are actually binding since that might provide a clue as to what is going on.  See if there is a pattern that repeats when comparing the Port and Stb. side.  I don’t know how long your lift out panels are but if wood swells unevenly you can end up with a curved shape that might show up from taking a few measurements.  The feeler gauge will also show you the tight areas that you will need to trim if it comes to that...

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
  
On Dec 13, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@gmail.com> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:
 
Ryan,

   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open..

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelya chtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:
 
Hi Ryan,
Have you checked the hinges,
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@...  [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:

 
 
Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
 

 














Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

James Alton
 

Well I don’t know about that…  I personally really enjoy the warmth of the varnished wooden panels in my Amel….

James

On Dec 14, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Yahoo! Mail sammie.whammie@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Wood has no place in a boat.


On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:52 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Ryan,

   Is there any moisture at all present in the bilge area where the panels are becoming tight?  I would check the hull surfaces and the underside of the floor.   Are you taking your  humidity readings at the level of the floor or higher up in the cabin?   I am guessing that you are heating the boat to well above the current temperature of the water?   If the instrument that you are using to read off the relative humidity is well above the floor then the relative humidity in the bilge could be much higher.  For instance, if you are reading  20C and 53% relative humidity in a location several feet above the floor level, that same air when cooled to 10C in the bilges from the cold water will be at saturation.  (100% relative humidity)    I am confused as to why drying the panels did not seem to help but perhaps the floor itself has swelled enough to create the fit problems?  This is a hard problem to troubleshoot from a distance but in general I usually find that when wooden parts  fit properly when the wood is known to be dry begin to become tight that moisture/swelling of the wood is usually the culprit.   Perhaps the reason that the panels are the tight only in the main cabin is because the cabin sole is because the athwartship dimension of the total panel is the greatest in this area of the boat hence more total swelling.  I assume that you have checked to be sure that the panels are being inserted into the correct location? 

  It might be worth taking a feeler gauge and checking to see where the panels are actually binding since that might provide a clue as to what is going on.  See if there is a pattern that repeats when comparing the Port and Stb. side.  I don’t know how long your lift out panels are but if wood swells unevenly you can end up with a curved shape that might show up from taking a few measurements.  The feeler gauge will also show you the tight areas that you will need to trim if it comes to that...

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
  
On Dec 13, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:
 
Ryan,

   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelya chtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:
 
Hi Ryan,
Have you checked the hinges,
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@...  [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:

 
 
Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
 

 













Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

Stephen Hancock
 

Wood has no place in a boat.


On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:52 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Ryan,

   Is there any moisture at all present in the bilge area where the panels are becoming tight?  I would check the hull surfaces and the underside of the floor.   Are you taking your  humidity readings at the level of the floor or higher up in the cabin?   I am guessing that you are heating the boat to well above the current temperature of the water?   If the instrument that you are using to read off the relative humidity is well above the floor then the relative humidity in the bilge could be much higher.  For instance, if you are reading  20C and 53% relative humidity in a location several feet above the floor level, that same air when cooled to 10C in the bilges from the cold water will be at saturation.  (100% relative humidity)    I am confused as to why drying the panels did not seem to help but perhaps the floor itself has swelled enough to create the fit problems?  This is a hard problem to troubleshoot from a distance but in general I usually find that when wooden parts  fit properly when the wood is known to be dry begin to become tight that moisture/swelling of the wood is usually the culprit.   Perhaps the reason that the panels are the tight only in the main cabin is because the cabin sole is because the athwartship dimension of the total panel is the greatest in this area of the boat hence more total swelling.  I assume that you have checked to be sure that the panels are being inserted into the correct location? 

  It might be worth taking a feeler gauge and checking to see where the panels are actually binding since that might provide a clue as to what is going on.  See if there is a pattern that repeats when comparing the Port and Stb. side.  I don’t know how long your lift out panels are but if wood swells unevenly you can end up with a curved shape that might show up from taking a few measurements.  The feeler gauge will also show you the tight areas that you will need to trim if it comes to that...

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
  
On Dec 13, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:
 
Ryan,

   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelya chtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:
 
Hi Ryan,
Have you checked the hinges,
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@...  [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@... om> wrote:

 
 
Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
 

 











Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Viewing Amel 54 - what to look for?

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Scott,
I would also recommend Olivier for the survey. He surveyed our 54 in August 17 and we were very satisfied with his service.
We also dealt with broker Michel Charpentier, and he was great too.

I don't believe you will find a better long distance short-handed cruising yacht design than the Amel. I particularly like the 54.

I'm a relative newbie to Amel and others on this forum may know about 'generic' issues to look for, but for your reference we found the following issues with our 2010 model.

Air-con cooling water pump intermittently did not start.

Lopo bow light and tricolour did not work. Replacements provided by Lopo free-of-charge.

Engine start battery was outgassing when charged. You must look carefully in the battery compartment for signs of corrosion etc caused by outgassing. There is a very large battery/charging capacity on these boats and it must be managed properly. It's easy to damage the batteries.

We also have a noisy (but working) staysail furling motor. I will need to replace it in the near future.

As noted by others, you should be looking to see a well-loved and regularly maintained boat. This should be fairly obvious to you on close inspection.

If it looks good to you then your surveyor will make sure all the details are checked.

We bought our 54 in August in Italy, and we are extremely happy with the boat.

Good luck
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154


First Impressions: Firefly Batteries.

greatketch@...
 

In a previous post I explained my rational for purchasing Firefly batteries in this battery replacement cycle.  They arrived a few days ago (finally!) and here are my initial impressions.


Physical fit:  They are Group 31 batteries, which is nothing but a specification on the physical size of the battery case, so they should be drop in replacements, right?  Wrong!  They are a little bit higher than our old Lifeline batteries, so I needed to trim a bit off the wood brace on the bottom of the compartment lid.  Also, the terminals are high enough that the battery terminal fuses I had been using no longer fit under the lid, so I swapped four 125 amp terminal fuses for a single 500 amp ANL fuse.  Neither was a big deal, but both were annoying.


It is very not fair to evaluate batteries when first installed.  Batteries take at least 10 charge/discharge cycles to settle in to their long term groove.  That said...  


One of the reasons I went with these was their higher charge acceptance rate.  Wow.  What a difference.  Our Lifeline AGMs (which are very good at rapid charging) would taper down to 18 amps charge rate by the time they got to 85% charge.  The Fireflys were still accepting over 50 amps at 85% charge...  Once they have settled in and I have a bit more experience with them I'll post more hard data, but so far, they look like they will at least match my expectations.


Again, these are not for everybody. They are expensive, hard to get, and need proper charge voltage control (especially on float) that not every charging system can do. The benefits of the extra cost really depend on how you use your boat.


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Fort Lauderdale, FL






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

James Alton
 

Ryan,

   Is there any moisture at all present in the bilge area where the panels are becoming tight?  I would check the hull surfaces and the underside of the floor.   Are you taking your  humidity readings at the level of the floor or higher up in the cabin?   I am guessing that you are heating the boat to well above the current temperature of the water?   If the instrument that you are using to read off the relative humidity is well above the floor then the relative humidity in the bilge could be much higher.  For instance, if you are reading  20C and 53% relative humidity in a location several feet above the floor level, that same air when cooled to 10C in the bilges from the cold water will be at saturation.  (100% relative humidity)    I am confused as to why drying the panels did not seem to help but perhaps the floor itself has swelled enough to create the fit problems?  This is a hard problem to troubleshoot from a distance but in general I usually find that when wooden parts  fit properly when the wood is known to be dry begin to become tight that moisture/swelling of the wood is usually the culprit.   Perhaps the reason that the panels are the tight only in the main cabin is because the cabin sole is because the athwartship dimension of the total panel is the greatest in this area of the boat hence more total swelling.  I assume that you have checked to be sure that the panels are being inserted into the correct location? 

  It might be worth taking a feeler gauge and checking to see where the panels are actually binding since that might provide a clue as to what is going on.  See if there is a pattern that repeats when comparing the Port and Stb. side.  I don’t know how long your lift out panels are but if wood swells unevenly you can end up with a curved shape that might show up from taking a few measurements.  The feeler gauge will also show you the tight areas that you will need to trim if it comes to that...

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
  

On Dec 13, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Ryan,


   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

Have you checked the hinges,

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

 

Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

 


 










Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy Lock Companionway Slide

Ryan Meador
 

I got my cam a few days ago, and I am loving it.  Opening and closing the door doesn't seem like a chore anymore!  Thanks, Bill.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 7:21 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,

I am also adding a block of some plastic like nylon or something more shock resistant to the area above the locking board.

In this way when I pull up the companionway it will be in the exact place to close the latches. I am tired of having to look at the board to see if it is lined up.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

.

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 7:10 PM


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy Lock Companionway Slide

 

 

Bill,

I actually like the metal ones better. However I did not know of them at the time.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 6:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy Lock Companionway Slide

 

 

The files on the homemade cam were posted by Bill Rouse.  They are a great design and I am sure work well, and certainly look great.

 

As a full time liveaboard, the option of machining teak really isn't available to me.  Even if it was, my time is more valuable than the cost of the commercially available lever cams.  

 

Of course there are others who would enjoy the process of making them from scratch, and not put a price on the time involved.  They will end up with something more elegant than I have and I would not begrudge them such satisfaction for a second.

 

The commercial product is certainly not as nice a solution as the custom made teak cams, but are they are way better than the handwheels!

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Fort Lauderdale, FL



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] can't open saloon floor panels

Ryan Meador
 

James,
I removed all the floor panels and dried them out by propping them up around the saloon for 4 days.  The temperature never went below 50°F/10°C and humidity was never above 50%.  It doesn't seemed to have changed anything.  They're just as hard to fit as before, to the point where I'm afraid to jam the last one in; I might need to use a crowbar to get it open again.  So I have the one at the forward end of the saloon sitting 90 degrees off from where it belongs... there's only a minimal risk of breaking an ankle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Sat, Dec 2, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
That's an interesting theory. The water temperature is about 50 degrees right now. I'll give your idea a test.

Thanks,
Ryan

On Dec 2, 2017 7:08 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Ryan,


   If the boat is currently in cold Boston waters, it is possible that the heated air (with a higher relative humidity) is condensing on the colder panels and soaking in, thereby swelling the wood.   You might try removing one panel, placing it in a relatively high location so that it will see the higher temperatures/lower relative humidity and see if it returns to a size that fits the location.  If the test panel fits after drying for a few days, then you have your answer.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno 
Maramu #220

On Dec 2, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:


There aren't any hinges; all of the panels lift out.

I also just this evening realized that the panel outboard of the table is stuck too, but the ones directly beneath the table are easy to open.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Dec 2, 2017 12:34 PM, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

Have you checked the hinges,

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 02 December 2017 at 11:51 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

 

Hi all,
My SM has the wooden floor panels, not the blue ones.  A while after I bought the boat in the beginning of August, I noticed the smoothly-opening floor panels that run the length of the saloon were taking some effort to open.  I chalked it up to humidity.  But it's been getting worse, to the point where I now need to use a tool to grab onto the holes to lift them as my fingers aren't strong enough.  None of the other floor panels on the boat are affected.  My hygrometer has been reading 45-55% for the last few weeks (since I started paying attention) so even if it was humidity, I would have expected them to dry out again by now.  The temperature has dropped a bit, but I've been keeping the boat heated.  The panels are properly aligned with the rubber stripes in the floor.  Any idea what has happened?  I'd rather not shave them down without understanding it.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

 


 







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thuster Control Box

Ryan Meador
 

Hi,
I just uploaded all the diagrams I have which came with my boat.  I came across a couple that might be of interest to the folks in this thread: electrical diagrams of the bow thruster control circuitry (I'm glad I don't have to reverse engineer one of my own!).  It even has strong suggestions of what is going on in the control box.  The only thing we're missing to fabricate a new control box is what those little squares are on the diagram... I'm guessing capacitors.  You can find these diagrams on pages 3-4 of this document.

Fair winds,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Mon, Dec 4, 2017 at 7:08 PM, mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

  I would like one of these as well.
  Mark Pitt
  Sabbatical III, SM#419