Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr Battery Replacement Procedures

James Alton
 

Bill,

   The only thing that I can think of to add would be to insure that the new batteries were individually all at a similar state of charge before connecting them.  It might also be a good idea to do a load test on each individual battery before connecting them together to ensure that they all seem healthy.  Most auto parts stores have a load tester if you do not have one yourself.  I am sure that one of the battery experts on the forum will step in to help you further.  Best of luck.

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jan 7, 2018, at 1:51 PM, pacificcool@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


My 8 Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr batteries are pretty much gone so I've ordered 8 new GPL-31T 105 Am Hr batteries from DC Battery in Fort Lauderdale and had them air air shipped to Trinidad.  The cost of the batteries was $2524 and shipping was $680.  If I had shipped by sea it would have cost about $200 but  could not find anyone to receive them in Trinidad if I wasn't there.  The air shipment was handled by Ezone.  The contact for Ezone is Paul Pantin, tel: 868-620-6135. I am happy with the service from DC Battery and Ezone.  Even with the air freight it was cheaper than buying them either in Trinidad or Grenada.  FYI, each battery weighs 70 pounds.


My question involves how to actually replace them.  I plan to take a picture of the existing battery installation for reference.  Then I will use masking tape to label each battery with a number and each cable (at both ends) with the number of the battery to which it is attached including whether it's the plus or minus terminal. Next I will take a picture of the labeled installation or simply make a diagram on paper.   Then I will disconnect the batteries with the big red handles in the pilot berth and turn off all power to the boat.  After that I will remove the batteries, inspect each cable and their termin als for corrosion, looseness etc and repair as required.  Next I will position all 8 batteries in place and reconnect all the cables using the photo or diagram.  Next I will ask the boss to check that everything is correctly connected per the diagram.  Once that is conformed I will close the red battery handles and restore boat power.  If all is OK, I will turn on the battery charger and fully charge the batteries,  Lastly, I will check that the vent line is clear.  


I ask any of you electrical experts if my plan is sound or if you think i have overlooked something.  My past experience with b attery replacement is a 6 volt  battery on a 51 Ford in 1959 and a 6 volt battery on a 1959 BMW R50 motorcycle.  I included the purchase and shipment details in case anyone else is considering battery replacement in the Caribbean.  Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.  


Best Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool 

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Max Prop Anti-Fouling Treatment

Mark Erdos
 

We recently did bottom paint and used Velox on the prop for the first time based on good reviews. It is readily available in all the Caribbean ship stores. It is easy to apply but you must remove every spec of old paint from the prop. We had the prop sandblasted in the yard for $50 rather than do it by hand. Because the Autoprop has grease in it it must also been cleaned thoroughly with a degreaser before applying paint. Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Martinique

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 3:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Max Prop Anti-Fouling Treatment

 

 

Two years ago I treated my Max Prop with Prop Speed to protect it from critters underwater.  I asked Peake Yachts here in Trinidad where I'm hauled out if they could reapply the Prop Speed (maybe its Speed Prop) and they said it's no longer available.  Does anyone have a suggestion on how to protect my Max Prop?  One web site suggested I sand it down to bare metal (done), apply an epoxy primer, and then apply anti-fouling.  For some reason it seems like that is not a great idea.  

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool


Max Prop Anti-Fouling Treatment

pacificcool@...
 

Two years ago I treated my Max Prop with Prop Speed to protect it from critters underwater.  I asked Peake Yachts here in Trinidad where I'm hauled out if they could reapply the Prop Speed (maybe its Speed Prop) and they said it's no longer available.  Does anyone have a suggestion on how to protect my Max Prop?  One web site suggested I sand it down to bare metal (done), apply an epoxy primer, and then apply anti-fouling.  For some reason it seems like that is not a great idea.  


Anyone have any suggestions?


Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool


Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr Battery Replacement Procedures

pacificcool@...
 

My 8 Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr batteries are pretty much gone so I've ordered 8 new GPL-31T 105 Am Hr batteries from DC Battery in Fort Lauderdale and had them air air shipped to Trinidad.  The cost of the batteries was $2524 and shipping was $680.  If I had shipped by sea it would have cost about $200 but  could not find anyone to receive them in Trinidad if I wasn't there.  The air shipment was handled by Ezone.  The contact for Ezone is Paul Pantin, tel: 868-620-6135. I am happy with the service from DC Battery and Ezone.  Even with the air freight it was cheaper than buying them either in Trinidad or Grenada.  FYI, each battery weighs 70 pounds.


My question involves how to actually replace them.  I plan to take a picture of the existing battery installation for reference.  Then I will use masking tape to label each battery with a number and each cable (at both ends) with the number of the battery to which it is attached including whether it's the plus or minus terminal. Next I will take a picture of the labeled installation or simply make a diagram on paper.   Then I will disconnect the batteries with the big red handles in the pilot berth and turn off all power to the boat.  After that I will remove the batteries, inspect each cable and their terminals for corrosion, looseness etc and repair as required.  Next I will position all 8 batteries in place and reconnect all the cables using the photo or diagram.  Next I will ask the boss to check that everything is correctly connected per the diagram.  Once that is conformed I will close the red battery handles and restore boat power.  If all is OK, I will turn on the battery charger and fully charge the batteries,  Lastly, I will check that the vent line is clear.  


I ask any of you electrical experts if my plan is sound or if you think i have overlooked something.  My past experience with battery replacement is a 6 volt  battery on a 51 Ford in 1959 and a 6 volt battery on a 1959 BMW R50 motorcycle.  I included the purchase and shipment details in case anyone else is considering battery replacement in the Caribbean.  Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.  


Best Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr Battery Replacement Procedures

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

It is best to post your boat type and serial number when asking a question.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2018 1:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr Battery Replacement Procedures

 

 

My 8 Lifeline AGM 105 AmpHr batteries are pretty much gone so I've ordered 8 new GPL-31T 105 Am Hr batteries from DC Battery in Fort Lauderdale and had them air air shipped to Trinidad.  The cost of the batteries was $2524 and shipping was $680.  If I had shipped by sea it would have cost about $200 but  could not find anyone to receive them in Trinidad if I wasn't there.  The air shipment was handled by Ezone.  The contact for Ezone is Paul Pantin, tel: 868-620-6135. I am happy with the service from DC Battery and Ezone.  Even with the air freight it was cheaper than buying them either in Trinidad or Grenada.  FYI, each battery weighs 70 pounds.



My question involves how to actually replace them.  I plan to take a picture of the existing battery installation for reference.  Then I will use masking tape to label each battery with a number and each cable (at both ends) with the number of the battery to which it is attached including whether it's the plus or minus terminal. Next I will take a picture of the labeled installation or simply make a diagram on paper.   Then I will disconnect the batteries with the big red handles in the pilot berth and turn off all power to the boat.  After that I will remove the batteries, inspect each cable and their terminals for corrosion, looseness etc and repair as required.  Next I will position all 8 batteries in place and reconnect all the cables using the photo or diagram.  Next I will ask the boss to check that everything is correctly connected per the diagram.  Once that is conformed I will close the red battery handles and restore boat power.  If all is OK, I will turn on the battery charger and fully charge the batteries,  Lastly, I will check that the vent line is clear.  



I ask any of you electrical experts if my plan is sound or if you think i have overlooked something.  My past experience with battery replacement is a 6 volt  battery on a 51 Ford in 1959 and a 6 volt battery on a 1959 BMW R50 motorcycle.  I included the purchase and shipment details in case anyone else is considering battery replacement in the Caribbean.  Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.  



Best Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wireless wind instrument

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: Wireless wind instrument

carcodespam@...
 

I have replaced my broken wired NASA Clipper with the wireless sensor unit. Works fine, is cheap and data is transfered fast enough. So no problems.

Gerhard
Sharki #80


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Inverter Replacement

greatketch@...
 


Colin,

Your email didn't survive encoding by Yahoo, so I'll answer here...

I installed the Multiplus in the engine room, using the existing cables from the old charger that it replaced, although I did add an appropriately sized fuse. The Multiplus case ground is connected to the safety ground of the 220V system.  There is no connection between the DC negative and the case of the unit.

The AC system on Harmonie is a good deal more complex than on most SMs. Its current schematic can be seen here: 

The original owners apparently insisted that AMEL install a fully functional 110V system in parallel with the 220V system. So Harmonie has 110V outlets in every cabin, two shore power cables, one for 110, and one for 220, a 110V --> 220V transformer, a 110V inverter/charger, and a 220V inverter/charger, and an additional 50 amp 220V battery charger.  We never use the 110 charger since we added the Victron, it does all the heavy lifting.

A bit of a jumble, but everybody plays happy with only minimal manual intervention, and when plugged into 110 shore power, I am comfortable that I get safe and effective 220V power AND 110V.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas

---In amelyachtowners@..., <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote :

Hi Bill

On Island Pearl II we installed the sister unit to yours, ie. a Victron MultiPlus 24v/3000w/70amp inverter/charger and we are extremely happy with it. Our two Dophin 30 and 50 chargers are still working fine, but only there for back up now as the Victron is so much faster and efficient.

Rather than bore everyone here perhaps on this specific question, perhaps you could email me directly on colin.cruisingpoint@.... I am particularly keen to know how you connected your system up?. In my case I placed this unit on the RHS of the navstation so that it is right up close to the batteries with good oversized cable going directly through the battery cavity wall (appropriately sealed off of course) , and the shore power now comes in directly to this unit, through it, and then into the normal AC system control panel.

I am particularly interested to know if/where you ran the ground cable which attached onto the outside shell/steel case of the unit? 

Best regards

Colin
Amel53 #332, PHUKET
Phuket for now... soon to cross the northern Indian Ocean to Maldives.
 


Re: Inverter Replacement

Duane Siegfri
 

Here's another experience with the Xantrex:  

My original Xantrex 1800 was installed (by a professional electrician) in Dec of 2016.

It failed in July of 2017 and was replaced by the manufacturer, after only 6 months in service.

The replacement failed again today, after only 5 months of service.  During that 5 months, it has only been used to run the microwave several times per week.  Otherwise it is switched off.

I would not recommend this manufacturer for anything but the junk pile.

At this point I'm thinking about putting in a different brand altogether, even though the warranty has another 11 months.  

The error code was "System Shutdown" which relates to "Overload or system hardware fault".  There were no loads connected when I switched it on.  In addition, it is only connected to the 220V breakers for "Outlets" and "Microwave", so I don't know how there could have been an overload.  The input voltage was 

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Seafood party in Martinique

Mark Erdos
 

It’s a really long way for us to go. But, we think you are worth it. See you here.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark and Cindy

 

 

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Martinique

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 11:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Seafood party in Martinique

 

 

Good Morning Amelians,

I'll be back in Le Merin late 1/9.

As long as they don't confiscate my oysters and scallops passing thru customs, I hope to arrange to have our get together when I get back.

I'll post details.

Spirit is at the end of the dock in the last slip. Feel free to stop by and say hi.

Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14

 

  


Wireless wind instrument

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,

I've had consistent problems with my B&G wind instruments. Processor problems, mast head unit problems (bad bearing, computer board-in the masthead, twice), which has put me in a situation where I've been without proper readings, and in some cases with no readings at all while offshore.

While I'm currently getting the latest mastheat problems repaired, I'm considering getting a wireless unit installed as a backup. I'd prefer not to get a backup wired system installed at this point.

Has anyone installed a wireless one, and if so, which one, and what are your experiences been with it?

I've done a bit of research. 

Raymarine makes one, and the reviews I've read are awful.

Clipper makes one, which may be somewhat flimsy, but the reviews have been good.

I don't mind ponying up for something of good quality, but it seems choices are limited.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14





Seafood party in Martinique

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,

I'll be back in Le Merin late 1/9.

As long as they don't confiscate my oysters and scallops passing thru customs, I hope to arrange to have our get together when I get back.

I'll post details.

Spirit is at the end of the dock in the last slip. Feel free to stop by and say hi.

Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14


  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Inverter Replacement

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Bill

On Island Pearl II we installed the sister unit to yours, ie. a Victron MultiPlus 24v/3000w/70amp inverter/charger and we are extremely happy with it. Our two Dophin 30 and 50 chargers are still working fine, but only there for back up now as the Victron is so much faster and efficient.

Rather than bore everyone here perhaps on this specific question, perhaps you could email me directly on colin.cruisingpoint@.... I am particularly keen to know how you connected your system up?. In my case I placed this unit on the RHS of the navstation so that it is right up close to the batteries with good oversized cable going directly through the battery cavity wall (appropriately sealed off of course) , and the shore power now comes in directly to this unit, through it, and then into the normal AC system control panel.

I am particularly interested to know if/where you ran the ground cable which attached onto the outside shell/steel case of the unit? 

Best regards

Colin
Amel53 #332, PHUKET
Phuket for now... soon to cross the northern Indian Ocean to Maldives.

On Sun, Jan 7, 2018 at 1:59 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Strictly in the "for what it's worth" file...


I have had a number of Xantrex products over many years... and never been happy with any of them.  I found them to be short lived and fragile. Sometimes I am a slow learner.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor locker floor rotten

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Good point about the possibility of accumulating weight in the bow lockers from a slow leak.  It is pretty hard to get a perfect seal on a locker with such a large opening but I will do what I can on my boat to make it is good as possible.  Also to boot or seal the forestay tang.

   One of the things that impressed me about the bow lockers on Sueño was the fact that we have scrubbed them out twice so that they are really clean/mildew free and neither of us has jammed any loose fibreglass fibers under our fingernails to date.  Most production boats that I am familiar with have little sharp points of glass sticking out everywhere just waiting for such an opportunity to destroy your hands.  So if I ever have to rebuild my bow lockers I will definitely take the time and pain to sand the repairs smooth and gelcoat the surfaces to the same quality level that Amel did originally.  I also find that raw fibreglass sheds fibreglass fibers forever...  Put a sailbag into a locker with raw fibreglass and then  pull it out and look at it in the sun to see the millions of shiny bits of glass...  (grin)    And finally, unless the last coats of resin used in the repair have a wax additive added, the surface will remain forever tacky.  This is designed into the resin to help any additional layers of fibreglass bond to the surface, the term is air inhibited cure.  You can get non air inhibited cure gel coats that will cure hard as glass with no tackiness even without adding the wax additive and this is what I like to use in lockers.  I am not sure of what kind of gel coat that Amel used in all of the lockers and bilge of my boat but it is all glass hard and not tacky.  I had one customer with a 54’ Gulfstar in which all of the lockers were coated with regular gelcoat that had not cured properly. .  A sail had been stored in the bow locker for several years and ahead of a circumnavigation we had to unload that locker.  The sail had bonded itself to the hull so securely that we had to use a block and tackle through the hatch to pull it free.    It was so bad that we eventually were asked to remove the original gelcoat and recoat every locker..a huge job.   It is so nice to have bright shiny, tack free lockers on our 30 year old boat, thank you Amel for taking the extra time to do this right!   

    I am glad to hear that you are happy with the new wood free locker bottoms.  

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jan 7, 2018, at 12:57 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

I went to look for the name of the core material used, and I can't find it.  My recollection is that 5/8 inch thick Dynacell was specified.  Pretty much any of the PVC or Urethane foam core boards would work.  

One thing we did was skip the extra day of labor to gelcoat the bottom of the lockers.  Seemed like a lot of dollars for a very minor cosmetic upgrade to the bottom of a storage locker. 

I think losing a bow locker lid is a vanishingly small probability, but if it happened, I'd be far more concerned about the ton (literally!) of water in the bow locker than with the slow drain to the bilge.  If I thought the bilge was being overwhelmed, and I really wanted to stop water moving aft in such an emergency, I could always close the valve in the drain line in the forward cabin, or in the saloon.  But I am pretty sure I'd be falling off and sailing downwind or heaving-to until I figured out a way to get at least a mostly sealed cover jury-rigged.

A far more likely concern--to me--is a more modest leak from a poorly secured lid or other leak point (the forestay chainplate?) that fills the locker slowly over the course of a passage with no good way to drain it--hence the limber holes.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill,

   A sealed locker for the stowage of wet chain/rode is a tough place for wood to survive for very long so I think that you are on the right track with removing the organics.  Which foam core material did you decide to use?  

    I guess the possibility  exists of a locker lid being damaged or even lost in conditions where the locker could be flooded,  but I suspect that you have already calculated a safe size for your limber holes to prevent flooding the bilge.  Other than this consideration,  I think that limber holes are a good idea. 

   Enjoy the Bahamas,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 

On Jan 6, 2018, at 10:41 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I had planned to do our locker floors myself, but my better half convinced me I had better things to do (smart girl!) I was even more appreciative of her advice when watching the guy who did the work climb out of the locker covered with dust after grinding in prep for the  lamination work.


Our plywood floors were replaced by foam core, with glass laminate on both sides.  It will last the life of the hull with never another issue.

We also added permanent limber holes in the floor of the lockers.  I tried really, really hard to think of a good reason to hold water in the lockers and not let it drain to the bilge and I could not come up with a reason why water should pool there and not be pumped overboard.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor locker floor rotten

Craig Briggs
 

On our SN the port bow locker has a factory installed drain plug with screw cap. It allows you to drain any water from the storage lockers into the chain locker which then flows to the bilge sump, like anchor chain water does. Great for washing the lockers and I've kept it on the replacement floor. Have assumed the SM's had similar construction.
Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

James,

I went to look for the name of the core material used, and I can't find it.  My recollection is that 5/8 inch thick Dynacell was specified.  Pretty much any of the PVC or Urethane foam core boards would work.  

One thing we did was skip the extra day of labor to gelcoat the bottom of the lockers.  Seemed like a lot of dollars for a very minor cosmetic upgrade to the bottom of a storage locker. 

I think losing a bow locker lid is a vanishingly small probability, but if it happened, I'd be far more concerned about the ton (literally!) of water in the bow locker than with the slow drain to the bilge.  If I thought the bilge was being overwhelmed, and I really wanted to stop water moving aft in such an emergency, I could always close the valve in the drain line in the forward cabin, or in the saloon.  But I am pretty sure I'd be falling off and sailing downwind or heaving-to until I figured out a way to get at least a mostly sealed cover jury-rigged.

A far more likely concern--to me--is a more modest leak from a poorly secured lid or other leak point (the forestay chainplate?) that fills the locker slowly over the course of a passage with no good way to drain it--hence the limber holes.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill,

   A sealed locker for the stowage of wet chain/rode is a tough place for wood to survive for very long so I think that you are on the right track with removing the organics.  Which foam core material did you decide to use?  

    I guess the possibility  exists of a locker lid being damaged or even lost in conditions where the locker could be flooded,  but I suspect that you have already calculated a safe size for your limber holes to prevent flooding the bilge.  Other than this consideration,  I think that limber holes are a good idea. 

   Enjoy the Bahamas,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 

On Jan 6, 2018, at 10:41 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I had planned to do our locker floors myself, but my better half convinced me I had better things to do (smart girl!) I was even more appreciative of her advice when watching the guy who did the work climb out of the locker covered with dust after grinding in prep for the  lamination work.


Our plywood floors were replaced by foam core, with glass laminate on both sides.  It will last the life of the hull with never another issue.

We also added permanent limber holes in the floor of the lockers.  I tried really, really hard to think of a good reason to hold water in the lockers and not let it drain to the bilge and I could not come up with a reason why water should pool there and not be pumped overboard.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor locker floor rotten

greatketch@...
 

James,

I went to look for the name of the core material used, and I can't find it.  My recollection is that 5/8 inch thick Dynacell was specified.  Pretty much any of the PVC or Urethane foam core boards would work.  

One thing we did was skip the extra day of labor to gelcoat the bottom of the lockers.  Seemed like a lot of dollars for a very minor cosmetic upgrade to the bottom of a storage locker. 

I think losing a bow locker lid is a vanishingly small probability, but if it happened, I'd be far more concerned about the ton (literally!) of water in the bow locker than with the slow drain to the bilge.  If I thought the bilge was being overwhelmed, and I really wanted to stop water moving aft in such an emergency, I could always close the valve in the drain line in the forward cabin, or in the saloon.  But I am pretty sure I'd be falling off and sailing downwind or heaving-to until I figured out a way to get at least a mostly sealed cover jury-rigged.

A far more likely concern--to me--is a more modest leak from a poorly secured lid or other leak point (the forestay chainplate?) that fills the locker slowly over the course of a passage with no good way to drain it--hence the limber holes.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill,

   A sealed locker for the stowage of wet chain/rode is a tough place for wood to survive for very long so I think that you are on the right track with removing the organics.  Which foam core material did you decide to use?  

    I guess the possibility  exists of a locker lid being damaged or even lost in conditions where the locker could be flooded,  but I suspect that you have already calculated a safe size for your limber holes to prevent flooding the bilge.  Other than this consideration,  I think that limber holes are a good idea. 

   Enjoy the Bahamas,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 

On Jan 6, 2018, at 10:41 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I had planned to do our locker floors myself, but my better half convinced me I had better things to do (smart girl!) I was even more appreciative of her advice when watching the guy who did the work climb out of the locker covered with dust after grinding in prep for the  lamination work.


Our plywood floors were replaced by foam core, with glass laminate on both sides.  It will last the life of the hull with never another issue.

We also added permanent limber holes in the floor of the lockers.  I tried really, really hard to think of a good reason to hold water in the lockers and not let it drain to the bilge and I could not come up with a reason why water should pool there and not be pumped overboard.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor locker floor rotten

James Alton
 

Bill,

   A sealed locker for the stowage of wet chain/rode is a tough place for wood to survive for very long so I think that you are on the right track with removing the organics.  Which foam core material did you decide to use?  

    I guess the possibility  exists of a locker lid being damaged or even lost in conditions where the locker could be flooded,  but I suspect that you have already calculated a safe size for your limber holes to prevent flooding the bilge.  Other than this consideration,  I think that limber holes are a good idea. 

   Enjoy the Bahamas,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 

On Jan 6, 2018, at 10:41 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I had planned to do our locker floors myself, but my better half convinced me I had better things to do (smart girl!) I was even more appreciative of her advice when watching the guy who did the work climb out of the locker covered with dust after grinding in prep for the  lamination work.


Our plywood floors were replaced by foam core, with glass laminate on both sides.  It will last the life of the hull with never another issue.

We also added permanent limber holes in the floor of the lockers.  I tried really, really hard to think of a good reason to hold water in the lockers and not let it drain to the bilge and I could not come up with a reason why water should pool there and not be pumped overboard.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas



Re: Inverter Replacement

greatketch@...
 

Strictly in the "for what it's worth" file...

I have had a number of Xantrex products over many years... and never been happy with any of them.  I found them to be short lived and fragile. Sometimes I am a slow learner.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor locker floor rotten

greatketch@...
 

I had planned to do our locker floors myself, but my better half convinced me I had better things to do (smart girl!) I was even more appreciative of her advice when watching the guy who did the work climb out of the locker covered with dust after grinding in prep for the  lamination work.

Our plywood floors were replaced by foam core, with glass laminate on both sides.  It will last the life of the hull with never another issue.

We also added permanent limber holes in the floor of the lockers.  I tried really, really hard to think of a good reason to hold water in the lockers and not let it drain to the bilge and I could not come up with a reason why water should pool there and not be pumped overboard.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
North Bimini, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] UPDATE *** Martinique. Boat on island about January 18

Dan Carlson
 

Hi all, Lori and I are in St Anne now, we will be in le Marin starting Wednesday.  

Eric, we would love to meet you on the 18th.  How about  happy hour at Kokorum? That can accommodate anyone who can show up.

We've got a bunch of kids visiting is between 16 Jan and 1 Feb, but we'd love to host some folks for happy hours on BeBe on Thursday, 11th or Sunday 14th?  Send me an e-mail to carlsdan61 at gmail dot com and I will confirm.  
Looking forward to meeting more Amel owners.

Dan and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387 



On Thu, Jan 4, 2018 at 4:05 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

 

Hi All,

I will be in Martinique the evening of January 18 for a while,

Looks like the following boats will be there around that time,

Some owners will be on board and others will be away. In any event here seems to be the list

If you will be there around that time please add your name.

 

Jeff Krause 54 Spirit

Derek Gates 53 Brava

Miles Bidwell-not aboard 53 Lady Bug

Dan Carlson, BeBe, SM#387

Vladimir SM 345 "LIFE is Good"

Olaf MIA-AMARA,  Santorin  Ponton 5

James Cromie La Bella Vie (new owner) SM53

Alex Ramseyer, No Stress  AMEL54, 

Mike Ondra  Aletes SM#240

 

 

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376