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Re: New Group Member in Ft Lauderdale
Mark & Debbie Mueller
Hello Kent, S/V Kristy, SM243 - It truly is a small world. We are around the corner from you, just south of South Lake, in the Suntex - Loggerhead Marina slip 119. Give us a call if you have time: four eight zero - 818 - four 23 four. Mark & Debbie A54 #68, S/V Brass Ring Ft. Lauderdale
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New Group Member in Ft Lauderdale
Welcome to the "Family" Mark & Debbie! I'm anchoredin South Lake in Hollywood waiting for some parts to arrive. Hope to be sailing to Bahamas, T&C, then South on Tues or Wed. Would be happy to buy you a beer/wine/rum if you'd like to get together. Anybody else in Ft Lauderdale area now? Joel, are you available for dinner and/or a drink? Kent Robertson S/V Kristy SM243
On Jan 18, 2018, at 21:01, brass.ring@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
My wife, Debbie, and I are recent purchasers of an A54 #68 currently in Fort Lauderdale. We are pleased to be members of such a dedicated community of people that are willing to help each other. Hopefully we will be able to contribute in the future.
The second reason for the post is that we are planning to take advantage of the Bamar Amel upgrade program. Paul at Bamar USA informed me that if enough people are interested in taking advantage of this program there would be significant cost savings of the furling gear. If you have any interest please email Paul at the following address: “paul at bamarUSA dot com” Mark & Debbie A54 #68, S/V Brass Ring Ft. Lauderdale
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fwd: Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help [2 Attachments]
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Steve, I've been there. Fortunately the screws are hex head. You can get a hex head bit that fits in what we call a rattle gun. These are the usually air driven drivers that are used to remove wheel nuts on cars and trucks, also for any hard to undo fastenings. Nothing else moved mine. With the rattle gun, instant success. I have an air hose off a dive bottle that allows me to use any air tools, paint spray guns etc on the boat. When you use the rattle gun take care, apply in short squirts. As well as air operated now you can get cordless electrical as well. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand
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Re: Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help
steve_bode@...
Alexandre,
Got your picture, and understand that I should be able to remove the screws holding the center stem to the motor base. However, the center stem has not been removed (I think) ever and the bolts must be really seized. I broke a heavy-duty impact driver trying to get them out. Based on Bill's comment about a torch flame, I may buy a new impact drive and a torch and give that a shot. But I serious doubt that will do it. Any one ever remove an Lewmar electric winch from a deck? Steve Bode Amel SM117 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote : Steve, I feel your pain... Unfortunately, I can not see the pictures you posted, but I have some information to transmit that you might find useful. As Alexandre said, there is no need to remove the motors to get the winch apart for service. You just need to remove the "frame" from the base. In the attached photo, I have highlighted the bolts that secure the frame. The do NOT go through the deck! They are threaded into the base. They are NOT the bolts that held the nuts you removed from below. Those bolts are the ones that secure the base to the deck, and can not be removed until you get the frame off. When the proper bolts are removed the frame will lift right off. If the bolts are stuck are stuck, and a few of mine were, heat them gently with a small torch flame. They will back right out. When you reassemble them, be sure to put on some Tef-gel so they don't get stuck next time. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Great Harbor Cay, Bahamas
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Re: Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help
greatketch@...
Steve,
I feel your pain... Unfortunately, I can not see the pictures you posted, but I have some information to transmit that you might find useful. As Alexandre said, there is no need to remove the motors to get the winch apart for service. You just need to remove the "frame" from the base. In the attached photo, I have highlighted the bolts that secure the frame. The do NOT go through the deck! They are threaded into the base. They are NOT the bolts that held the nuts you removed from below. Those bolts are the ones that secure the base to the deck, and can not be removed until you get the frame off. When the proper bolts are removed the frame will lift right off. If the bolts are stuck are stuck, and a few of mine were, heat them gently with a small torch flame. They will back right out. When you reassemble them, be sure to put on some Tef-gel so they don't get stuck next time. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Great Harbor Cay, Bahamas
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Re: Isolated alternators
greatketch@...
Thomas,
There are two significantly different types of alternators, depending on where the how the return circuit to the battery negative is made. In a "case grounded" alternator there is usually an attachment on the alternator for the battery Positive wire ONLY. The connection back to the battery Negative is through the alternator external case, and then through the engine block. This will not work on an Amel because the engine block is not continuously connected to the battery negative. These are the common alternators used on automobiles. Occasionally, this type of "case grounded" alternator has a connection for a battery negative cable on it. The way to check if your alternator is "case grounded" is to look for continuity between the Negative terminal on the alternator and the the alternator's external case. If the alternator is "case grounded" it will show near zero ohms on this path. It is not suitable for an Amel UNLESS the case is electrically isolated from the engine block with the plastic inserts. Putting one of these on an Amel without the isolation parts will make a continuous direct connection between the bonding system (connected to the engine) and the battery negative (connected to the alternator case). This eliminates the "floating negative" that the Amel was designed with. It would put all the underwater parts of the boat at risk for stray current corrosion. The other type of alternator with an "isolated ground" has connections for both battery Positive and battery Negative on the alternator. This is the best type of alternator, and hopefully the one you have. On this type of alternator, if you test the resistance between the Negative terminal and the case you will see an open circuit--no connection. If you have this type of alternator, it can be installed safely without the plastic isolation parts since it is already electrically isolated from its mount to the engine. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Great Harbor Cay, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fwd: Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Steve,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I assume you are a new owner, so welcome to the group! Be careful with listening to what others can do, if the part break, it is not going to be out of their pocket… I would be afraid the bold break in half… How about letting it soak in ZEP 45 or any high quality penetrating oil then keep trying… If the picture you posted is your last step, you can remove the gear, then the base. You do not need to remove the electric motor to service the rest (unless I am missing something). I made an illustration, but haven’t posted it. Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 1/19/18, Steve Bode stevenmbode@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fwd: Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, January 19, 2018, 11:52 AM Hi everyone, This is my first email to the group! Please help! I've serviced all my Lewmar winches on my 1994 Super Maramu except the big, electric Lewmar 58s. The service instructions I have tell me that after removing the drum, remove the screws holding the center stem to the motor base. I was unable to loosen them. Blew up a impact driver trying to do so. Left no other option, I set about trying to remove the entire winch to bring to the welder who claims he can get those pesky corroded screws out by welding a bolt to each screw and using a spanner (wrench) to remove them. So, I've removed the electric drive and flange that attaches to the drive shaft sleeve and finally, removed the nuts from the bolts that pass through the deck. But now I'm stopped. My questions are: Anyone else have this experience? If you have, I'm so sorry. Let's start a support group.Is the base glued to the deck or is the sealant just like mortar? Are there any other components holding the base to the deck?Any suggestions for getting under the base and removing the winch?Should I bang on the screws from underneath? drive a screw drive under the base? Here are some pictures of my status. Starboard winch center stem and drive base immediately after removing the drum: Underside of the starboard electric winch: Steve BodeSV IntentionAmel SM117Almerimar, Spainsteve@bodefamily.orgFacebook.com/stevebodesanfranc isco 415-710-6659
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Isolated alternators
Sv Garulfo
Dear Amelians, The 12V engine alternator is supposed to be isolated from the engine. I could only find a replacement for that alternator that is not fitted with nylon pieces to provide that isolation and I'm struggling to find a temporary solution to achieve the isolation. 1. What is the purpose of that isolation ? I suppose it is to protect the engine from corrosion? 2. What are the risks to temporarily mount the alternator without isolation ? Thanks as always! Thomas GARULFO Amel 54 #122 Stuck in Union Island, St Vincent & Grenadines
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Servicing Lewmar 58 winches - need help
Steve Bode
Hi everyone, This is my first email to the group! Please help!
I've serviced all my Lewmar winches on my 1994 Super Maramu except the big, electric Lewmar 58s. The service instructions I have tell me that after removing the drum, remove the screws holding the center stem to the motor base. I was unable to loosen them. Blew up a impact driver trying to do so. Left no other option, I set about trying to remove the entire winch to bring to the welder who claims he can get those pesky corroded screws out by welding a bolt to each screw and using a spanner (wrench) to remove them. So, I've removed the electric drive and flange that attaches to the drive shaft sleeve and finally, removed the nuts from the bolts that pass through the deck. But now I'm stopped. My questions are: Anyone else have this experience? If you have, I'm so sorry. Let's start a support group. Is the base glued to the deck or is the sealant just like mortar? Are there any other components holding the base to the deck? Any suggestions for getting under the base and removing the winch? Should I bang on the screws from underneath? drive a screw drive under the base? Here are some pictures of my status. Starboard winch center stem and drive base immediately after removing the drum: Underside of the starboard electric winch: Steve Bode SV Intention Amel SM117 Almerimar, Spain
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
hanspeter baettig
Bonjour JP I too bought a Vetus Pump Type EMP 140 as a spar part. My old pump from Amel, 25 years old is still working fine. Questions: How did you manage the problem from the already installed tubes, 30 mm (1 1/4 inch) old pump, 38 mm ( 1 1/2 inch) new Vetus pump ? Wich connector you used or you chanbe the old tubes to 38 mm ? How did you manage the fixation of the new pump ? Can you send me pics about the installation , fixation ( you need new holes ). Many thanks for your reply. You can send me the pics to: hanspeter dot baettig at bluemail dot ch Salutations HP SM 16, Tamango 2 Las Palmas
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor location suggestions.
Porter McRoberts
Thank you all for your insights!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I’ll head to the port helm locker for fitting! Porter
On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:19 AM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor location suggestions.
Porter McRoberts
Thanks Eric.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Sorry, the boat info was tiny and hard to see under the photo, but it’s a 54-Hull 152. I do think there is a 230 outlet in the aft Laz port side on a ledge there. I will check to make absolutely certain it’s not a 24v. Where is the 230 outlet in the cockpit locker? I appreciate your help Porter Ibis, Fort Lauderdale 54-152
On Jan 17, 2018, at 12:30 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bamar Amel Upgrade & New Group Member
Porter McRoberts
Re the furlers. Contact PAUL Hrabowski head of Bamar NA.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I just installed 2 new direct drive units. Fantastic He honored the letter, but again it was October 2017. He seemed very interested in making things right. 1-604-728-7445 he answered this phone number Porter IBIS Amel 54-152.
On Jan 18, 2018, at 9:36 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
Hi Gang,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Like Gary, I’ve installed a diaphragm pump. Mine is a Vetus unit and indeed, it does work well… Jean-Pierre Sy Eleuthera, SM 007, Panama
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Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
I have to say that at first I wasn't too impressed with the 'un-Amel' solution that was installed on Adagio when we got it, but after further review I believe it was a good decision on the part of the P.O. The original pump has been replaced by a 24v Whale Gusher diaphragm mounted about a meter above the full water level. The hose from the pump run straight down into the sump and has check (standard joker) valves both before and after the pump to prevent loss of prime. I installed new jokers in Feb., 2014 and have not had a lick of trouble since. The pump is easily accessible, a rebuild kit is readily available (although I haven't had to rebuild it yet) and it's 'relatively' inexpensive. It probably isn't a fast to pump the bilge as the original one (takes a full minute or so) but it's quiet and I've kind of grown into liking it. Just my 2 cents worth on this kind of project. Gary W. SM 209 Adagio Fethiye, Turkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bamar Amel Upgrade & New Group Member
We might be interested in this offer also as we are at the moment shopping for a 54 Year 2007 - please keep us in the loop.
Robin ASM 56 presently Mallorca Von meinem iPad gesendet
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Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
John Clark
Hi Dan,
The technician at Amel in Le Marin (the fellow that used to work with Jean Collin, has been there a while) talked me into buying a spare pump last year. The new pump looks nearly identical to the old one, same manufacturer. I have not used it yet. We are currently cruising full time and the original pump gets a fair bit of run time. It runs for about 15 -30 seconds to drain the gray water sump. I'm not sure which Amel supplied pump you have, but the one that came with my SM (#37) has been good, except for the suction flapper valve becoming misaligned...which I finally fixed with a modification....don't tell Bill R. Anyway the pump that came with my hull seems to be reliable, you might want to see if this version would fit with your layout. Oh and Bill K is right, centrifugal pumps are sensitive to crud in the water. I would not rely on one as the primary water mover. Regards, John SV Annie SM 37 about to sail out of St. Augustine.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bamar Amel Upgrade & New Group Member
Mark & Debbie Mueller
I talked with Paul today, I don't know if it the same program you referenced. He indicated that if he were able to order 5 units or more he would receive substantial savings from Bamar that he would pass along. Could be they are being more restrictive as time passes and want greater numbers to reduce their unit costs??? Greater numbers could be beneficial to everyone. BTW I have no financial interest other than to reduce (selfishly) my overall cost. Hope this works to everyone's benefit.
Mark & Debbie A54 #68, S/V Brass Ring Ft. Lauderdale
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor location suggestions.
John Clark
Hi Porter, just to add to the statistics, our dive compressor is in the aft part of the large portside cockpit bench locker. It is 220v and wired to the "220v Cales" breaker. Same breaker as for 220 outlets in Engine Room. Regards, John SV Annie SM 37 About to sail out of St Augustine....
On Jan 17, 2018 12:18 PM, "Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bamar Amel Upgrade & New Group Member
Mohammad Shirloo
Hello
Mark & Debbie and welcome to the Amel Family.
Bamar
put out a letter in February 2017 that they would replace Amel Bamar furlers
with their new furlers at a reduced cost, if purchased by 12/31/2017. I
made several attempts at contacting them. They would acknowledge receipt of my
e-mails but never received an actual response.
It is
possible that the same offer could be pursued. We would be interested, if they
do provide the original offer. I have a copy of their original
offer.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 6:01 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bamar Amel Upgrade & New Group Member
My wife, Debbie, and I are recent purchasers of an A54 #68 currently in Fort Lauderdale. We are pleased to be members of such a dedicated community of people that are willing to help each other. Hopefully we will be able to contribute in the future.
The second reason for the post is that we are planning to take advantage of the Bamar Amel upgrade program. Paul at Bamar USA informed me that if enough people are interested in taking advantage of this program there would be significant cost savings of the furling gear. If you have any interest please email Paul at the following address: “paul at bamarUSA dot com” Mark & Debbie A54 #68, S/V Brass Ring Ft. Lauderdale
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