Date   

sails and ssb

blowinahoudy <no_reply@...>
 

I would like to recommend two venders to the group. We had a new jib,
battened main, and battened mizzen made by Paul Lockwood of Omar
Sailmakers in Beaufort,N.C. Found his prices fair and his workmanship
superb. Also he is a great guy to work with,even drove me forty miles
to a car rental and wouldn't let me buy him a tank of gas. I'd also
like to praise Steve Bowden and Pam (Brown?) of Seatech Systems. We
bought An Icom 802,Pactor 3, AIS package, DSC, and wifi from them. I
installed them myself and was in a little over my head. Each time I
called for advice I got help,either immediately or soon
after. Sincerely, Joe Metz, "Brown-Eyed Girl
SM#87


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the anchor windlass

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Richard,
If your winch is installed like mine you may wish that you had the old one reconditioned in situ. As you might find on the search box under anchor winch I savaged mine in Croatia and had it repaired locally. At that time I looked in the chain locker and saw that the winch was fixed to the deck with four bolts. The nut on the starboard aft one was totally buried in resin and virtually inaccessible so I felt that it would be better to replace parts than to put a Leprachaun into the chainn locker to chip off the resin.
Hopefully yours is not the same.

Regards, Anne and John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:55 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the windlass


Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole. The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

> I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white
> plastic "T-Shirt"
> bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You
> can work it in
> around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It
> is also out of
> site. You can thread it through a chain link to make
> sure it doesn't
> blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never
> have.
>
> Bob,
> 93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
> MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Eric
> > If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come
> in I believe
> that the
> > small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is
> more than enough
> as the
> > amount of water that may come inside is rather
> little. My personal
> view is
> > that any other system a bit more sophisticated
> will not last long
> as sooner
> > or later you will forget to remove it one day. The
> good thing with
> the
> > rubber plate, is that even though you forget to
> remove it, it will
> not be
> > damaged, at most torn a bit.
> > Regards
> > Erick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
> > Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
> > Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000
> >
> > Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
> windlass hawspipe
> > during a passage?
> > fair winds,
> > eric
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________
> > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2
> months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
> >
>
>
>

__________________________________________________________
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Original sea valves

Dave_Benjamin
 

Greetings,

We have hauled our new to us Maramu hull #29. Most of the original sea
valves are still installed and with the exception of one sticky one
they are in good order. I'm not sure about the rest of the world but
here in the US having gate style valves is discouraged since you can't
tall visually which position the valve is in.

Where the older valves are used there are no conventional style skin
fittings with hose attached. Can anyone tell me how much work it is to
change these valves? Is there a glassed in pipe they are attached to?
How are they attached? Is it possible to change the valve without
adding a skin fitting?

I have set up a photo album named Exit Strategy. In addition to a
picture of the valves in question there is a picture of a plaque with
the original boat name - Maramu III. This Maramu was Henri Amel's
personal boat for the first six years.


Replacement Cleats for Mango

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Does anyone know who the manufacturer was for the cleats and warping
fairleads used on the early Mangos?

Have been advised that anodizing cast aluminum dack hardware is not
recommended so we are trying to replace the cleats and warping
fairleads on Annie M.

John and Anne on Annie M
Mango #1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replaceing the windlass

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, we use the same plastic bag method for keeping the
water out at sea. (ocean crossing and going to
windward)

We are about to replace the windlass as a whole. The
bearing have gone and it sounds like the worm gears
are gone as well. Has anyone replace the entire
windlass with a new Tigeress from Lofrans? Did you
have any problems/issues with the chain counter?

We found the best deal at Defender in CT. They
shipped to ST Thomas for us...

We'll post our replacement. Everyone may want to
check that there is no play in the windlass shaft with
the chain off.

Richard and Joan on Challenge in the BVI
--- rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white
plastic "T-Shirt"
bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You
can work it in
around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It
is also out of
site. You can thread it through a chain link to make
sure it doesn't
blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never
have.

Bob,
93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick
MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
wrote:

Hi Eric
If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come
in I believe
that the
small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is
more than enough
as the
amount of water that may come inside is rather
little. My personal
view is
that any other system a bit more sophisticated
will not last long
as sooner
or later you will forget to remove it one day. The
good thing with
the
rubber plate, is that even though you forget to
remove it, it will
not be
damaged, at most torn a bit.
Regards
Erick






----Original Message Follows----
From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000

Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the
windlass hawspipe
during a passage?
fair winds,
eric




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2
months FREE*
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass

rossirossix4
 

I know this is an old post, but I use a thin white plastic "T-Shirt"
bag, as is used in grocery and other shopping. You can work it in
around the chain and it forms a very tight seal. It is also out of
site. You can thread it through a chain link to make sure it doesn't
blow away if you forget to remove it, but we never have.

Bob,
93 Santorin Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Erick MEJEAN" <maramu@...>
wrote:

Hi Eric
If you problem is to prevent the sea water to come in I believe
that the
small piece of rubber attached to the windlass is more than enough
as the
amount of water that may come inside is rather little. My personal
view is
that any other system a bit more sophisticated will not last long
as sooner
or later you will forget to remove it one day. The good thing with
the
rubber plate, is that even though you forget to remove it, it will
not be
damaged, at most torn a bit.
Regards
Erick






----Original Message Follows----
From: kimberlite1212 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] plug for windlass
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 03:27:05 -0000

Has anyone come up with a good way to plug the windlass hawspipe
during a passage?
fair winds,
eric




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus


Re: Anchor chain counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

John and everyone else:

I just uploaded the data sheet and some other info on the IFM
electronics sensor for the chain counter to the files section in a folder
entitled Chain Counter Information.
Thanks again for your research on this.

Gary


Re: Anchor chain counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

John wrote; "The unit comes with 2 metres of cable but this was cut off so
that a conection could be made in the winch !?!"

Hi John: Thanks for the info. on the chain counter electronics. I haven't
had any trouble with my chain counter but it is probably only a matter
of time. Are there other connections between the sensor and the display
unit? It is just a thought, but before replacing expensive electronic parts,
take a look at all the connections from the sensor to the indicator
looking for corrosion.

My deck level running lights quit working and I found the sockets terribly
corroded due to salt spray working its way into the AO lamps fixtures. I
bought new sockets for about $35 US each and cleaned up the wiring and
installed the sockets. They still didn't work. I checked voltage at the
bow sockets and had no voltage so I traced the wires to a junction box
in the port bow locker. I had infinite resistance when checking for
continuity. I cut the wire back thinking that I only had some
corrosion at the connectors but no matter how far I cut back I found more
corrosion. Salt water had wicked along the stranded wire all the way from
the lamp fixture on the bow pulpit clear down to the junction box in the
port locker. I had to replace the wire.

Perhaps something similar has happened with the chain counter connections.
It does live in a very hostile environment. Just a thought.

Regards, Gary
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Anchor chain counter

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Ed,
I now have the details of the sensor on the side of the anchor winch.It
is made by a German company called IFM Electronics which has offices
all round the world. It is an inductive sensor, part no IB5076.
The website is www.ifm.info. If you click on products and enter the
part no in the search box you will get the specification and then you
can carry on to get a data sheet in language of choice.
I have done all this but it is beyond my comprehension.
However the sensor is warranted for five years and in use in
production lines and robotic controland and is ,I imagine bullet
proof. The unit comes with 2 metres of cable but this was cut off so
that a conection could be made in the winch !?!
It seems to me that your problem is perhaps in this connection or in
the display unit.

Good luck, John SM319


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Chain counter woes

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Ed,
I had the winch cover off last week to replace one of the switches and had a go at the counter sensor. It came out very easily by putting a small screw driver in the hole on the port side of the casing and with a little gentle levering.
It is a German device and I made a note of the makers etc but left it on the boat so I annot tell you the details.
I replaced it and put some sealant round the end and pushed it in and left it to set with a piece of card between it and the thing on the winch which triggers it.
You do not say what the problem is with your counter and I suppose that it is total failure rather than my problem which is the counter miss reads because, I suspect, the chain jumps on the gypsy as the chain runs out and thus underreads. This is because the chain is only on the gypsy for a quarter of a turn which is not enough at high speed run out without jumping or at high stress whilst under big strain as in running over the set anchor at some speed.
I have no idea how the electronics do their job and I was thinking of putting the sensor details on this site in the hope that someone might be more clued up.

Happy fiddling, Anne and John, SM319


Chain counter woes

edmund_steele
 

I am having the intermittent chain counter failure woes. Does anyone
know how to remove the sensor from the housing on the port side of the
Lofrans windlass? Anyone with an idea on how to test the functionality
of this part? I have checked the continuity of the wiring from the
control to th sensor and it is fine. I am down to the sensor and it
seems to be held in place by silcone sealant. Mallet and a ballpoint
pen as a drift??
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug SM 331


Re: take of the list

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Done. I have deleted you.

Regards
JL



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Lundstrom" <linneasail@...>
wrote:

Hi,



We sold our Amel a couple of years ago, and our next boat will be a
catamaran, so I would like to be taken off this list. How do I go
about?



Thanks,



Walter Lundstrom









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Pat, in the older Maramu with a prop alternator there
is a grease gun that lubes the prop shaft... I don't
think your SM has one.

Hope you get wet quick. We are on our way to the Med
due to the traffic issues at the P canal.
Richard on Challenge
--- sailw32@aol.com wrote:

Richard, You advised in your last posting to "check
the grease gun in the
engine'' what are you referring to?I'm on the hard
will be replacing the shaft
bearing this week.Thanks,Pat/Shenanigans SM123



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight?
Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]



____________________________________________________________________________________
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take of the list

Lundstrom <linneasail@...>
 

Hi,



We sold our Amel a couple of years ago, and our next boat will be a
catamaran, so I would like to be taken off this list. How do I go about?



Thanks,



Walter Lundstrom


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Patrick McAneny
 

Richard, You advised in your last posting to "check the grease gun in the
engine'' what are you referring to?I'm on the hard will be replacing the shaft
bearing this week.Thanks,Pat/Shenanigans SM123



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Dave, grind off the problem area then use West Sys.
with barrier coat following the fix. Check the prop
shaft for wear you should be able to take the shaft
out w/o issue when you replace the bearing. Also
check the grease gun in the engine to be sure it is
working well. Good luck
Richard on Challenge SM 209 in BVI


--- Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi all,

Maramu #29 is our first boat with a cast iron keel.
It's also our
first non US built boat. Any tips on type of epoxy
to use or other
info is greatly appreciated. We plan to haul next
week.

The cutless bearing will need to replaced as well.
It looks like there
is enough surface exposed to remove without
decoupling the shaft. Have
other Maramu owners been able to do it that way?

Thanks!




____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


keel maintenance, cutless

Dave_Benjamin
 

Hi all,

Maramu #29 is our first boat with a cast iron keel. It's also our
first non US built boat. Any tips on type of epoxy to use or other
info is greatly appreciated. We plan to haul next week.

The cutless bearing will need to replaced as well. It looks like there
is enough surface exposed to remove without decoupling the shaft. Have
other Maramu owners been able to do it that way?

Thanks!


Re: Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

Stephan Regulinski
 

While it is true that manufacturing by carving a piece out of solid
metal potentially has advantages over other processes (better control
of the molecular properties is one); it is difficult to believe that
this is a relevant fact to the repair of an anchor that has been
forged and welded in its original manufacture.

The anchor is not the only place where we rely on traditional
metal-working techniques. The anchor chain is welded, shackles are
forged, the bow fitting on the Amel is welded, fittings on the
riggings are swaged (a cold forging technique) and on it goes.
Fortunately, all these bits can be observed periodically; an advantage
that we have over the heart valve.

If you want a real life data point, I have bent the stainless plow
delivered on my Amel (#303) twice. The first time, it was bent back
into shape and welded at the points which showed stress from being
bent. That repair produced an anchor strong enough to suffer a second
bending without failure. At that point, I had it repaired again. In
the second repair, it was bent back into shape and then had two plates
welded across the I-beam to create a box-beam. My welder for the
second repair was of the opinion that it was stronger after the second
repair than it was brand new.

Stephan
S/V Delos

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "poirauda" <poirauda@...> wrote:

<<<<<The following email is from WASI>>>>>>>>>>>>>
……. It should take 2 people not much more than 15
minutes and will have absolutely NO negative effects on the
structural
integrity of the anchor....

Ari Grimm
WASI

May I say that I FULLY disagree with Ari Grimm's statement..
In a previous life ( :-) ), I've been involved in manufacturing
artificial heart valves and artificial hearts.. All valves have been
carved into a solid piece of titanium, as all our studies have
proved that both bending and welding the metal will change the
molecular structure and weaken the metal. Cardiac surgery is a place
where the risk factor should be absolutely ZERO..

Now, let's say that the shank is welded to the fluke.. but at a
place where the shank is much larger, and the overall resistance
should be enough..

It is very difficult to assert precisely which level of weakness re-
bending the shank straight will create.. but in doubt I think I will
change my own anchor for a new one.
Stainless steel is beautiful,
but galvanized steel (at least the one used to manufacture anchor's
shanks) is much stronger..

For more information, please have a look at my book:

"The complete anchoring hand book"

http://www.mhprofessional.com/product.php?isbn=0071475087


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages

dlm48@...
 

Babelfish should do a 'good enough translation for you to figure out what the text or a web page is saying

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

regards

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski <stephreg@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 5:57 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages





?Parts for the Australe 3 seem to be easily available on French

and Dutch internet sites, if you can find some way to translate.



Stephan



-



__


RE : RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Jean Boucharlat
 

Stephan,



Visual inspection of the board didn’t give any indication of its status and
I do not know of any specialized testing equipment available to laymen like
us. I came to my conclusion only through logical elimination of all probable
causes confirmed by phone discussion of the issue with Jean-Yves Selo (now
retired but, at the time, in the position occupied by Olivier Beauté).



I got the replacement part form Amel but, although the machine was just
about one year old, the manufacturer had already changed the size of the
board (it became about half-size) but, most importantly, had also changed
the connectors. As figuring out the functions of all the wires was way
beyond my capabilities, I had to wait until the boat reached Japan where a
good friend of mine, who is a very capable electronic technician, was able
to sort everything out.



As a consequence, if you order from Amel, I would suggest that you send them
all appropriate data (machine number, year of build, etc.) plus a photo of
the board and its connectors, as well as the physical dimensions of the
board so that they can make sure they get the right part from the
manufacturer.



Good luck and best regards,



Jean Boucharlat
Formerly : Satchimi SM 232

-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Stephan Regulinski
Envoyé : mardi 29 avril 2008 07:05
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Jean,

I was hoping for better news, but I am worried that your posting is the
most likely explanation. How did you know the electronic control board
was blown? Is it obvious by inspection; can you test for it; or does it
take specialized test equipment?

Where did you get the replacement part from?

Thanks for taking the time to post.

Kind regards,

Stephan

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Jean Boucharlat"
<jean.boucharlat@...> wrote:

Stephan,



Alternatively, and I do hope this is not the case with you, it could
be the
current frequency. It happened to me in Hawaï where the washing
machine ran
on shore power at 60Hz (as opposed to the European 50Hz it's
designed to
work on) and blew its electronic control board. I had to change the
whole
board, located, if my recollection is correct, at the bottom
right-hand side
of the machine.



Best regards,



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly : Satchimi SM 232



-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la part de Frank Newton
Envoyé : lundi 28 avril 2008 15:50
À : amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands
where the shore voltage was insufficient.

If the problem has manifested itself on shore power try running
off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann

SM2000 #321

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto: <mailto:stephreg%40yahoo.com>
stephreg@...]
Sent: 28 April 2008 06:29
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]