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Alternating hot and cold water in showers
philipp.sollberger@...
Hi All owners from "old" Super Maramus, I have the situation, that on my SM #124 I have alternating hot and warm water in the showers. The cold water is this season in La Rochelle real cold, that I feel it very directly. Each moment, when the pressure pump is working, the cold water arrives and the warm water gets cold with the effect, that you get cold shocking moment for some seconds and afterwards the warm shower water arrives again, till the water pressure pump starts working. Does anybody have an idea how I can eliminate this strange and uncomfortable effect? Thanks a lot for any suggestions. Fair winds, Philipp Sollberger, Félicie, SM #124
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
eric freedman
Craig, Of course the generator does not have a variable speed. What I meant is that we usually do not run the genset under enough load. 80 percent of the output of a 7.5 kw genset, I believe should be a usage of about 27 amps. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:49 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Hi Eric, You bring up an interesting point when you say you had the same carbon build up problem in your genset exhaust elbow, caused by not running at high enough rpm's. Unless you've got a variable speed genset, it always will be running at a high rpm (3000 or 3600 depending on Hertz), so rpm may not be the only issue. Isn't it low load that's the issue? So when Yanmar says to run the engine way up, no doubt they're assuming it will be in gear and will present a full load from the propeller. I think the genset analogy would be to load it with not just battery charging, but also get the Admiral to run her hair dryer, make toast, wash clothes and iron your shorts. Not a bad regimen, actually. Sound about right? Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris Hi, I had his problem with my genset. It is caused by not running a diesel at about 80% of its redline. Diesels like to work hard. Our diesels are not run that hard so is the main engine. Yanmar suggests to run the engine way up. In my case 3000 rpm for 15 minutes a few time a day This blows the carbon out of the turbo and the exhaust system.
The carbon is usually glass hard. However if the elbow is not perforated due to corrosion, I would try to break out the carbon. You might try something like a dremel tool with a hard steel bit, or even better a carbide bit ,or a small cutoff disk. Being that they have ordered a new elbow for you, you could go Medieval” on the elbow.
On eBay there is a fellow that makes beautiful Yanmar elbows out of stainless steel. They are much better than the factory unit. Possibly he makes elbows for your engine. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
I removed the elbow in Point-a-Pitre and it was almost blocked with very hard carbon deposits. I'd guess that it was only 30% open. Even so the engine ran well. The turbo turns freely so is probably OK. Unfortunately, they don't have the elbow here and must order it. Will be at least a week. The mechanic who looked at it said the elbow should be replaced every 3 years. He says that it is not possible to just clean out the carbon, but I don;t understand why not. It's the first I'd heard about the 3 year removal requirement and saw nothing in the Operating Manual which has all of the routine maintenance identified. Just sending this to close out the question. Thanks for all the good suggestions.
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General discussion on Generators and exhaust elbows
Hey Alexandre, I've found the Northern Lights to be really good. Mine has 7500 hours, doesn't burn a drop of oil and only routine maintenance needed (never rebuilt). I'm now installing my 3rd set of brushes and a new generator end bearing, all per the maintenance schedule. Have always done oil and filters right on schedule. A few pesky problems with DC connections over the years (easily fixed once found), but they've re-engineered that on the newer models. Interesting that their advertising now features the fact their DC system is not solid state and, therefore, can be owner maintained - basically 4 relays and no solid state. I think the marketing boys call that featuring your weaknesses, but after all the posts here about trying to decode and interpret the Onan solid state blinking lights, they may have a point. I switched to a Stainless Steel exhaust elbow after earlier ones corroded through and that's now at 2500 hours. The brand is well supported world wide. We've got friends who have been "off the grid" for 10 years now on a Bahamian island and they also have this genset, which they swear by, although they are almost 100% solar so only kick in the generator on rare occasions. Almost caught you when you were in Ft Lauderdale a few years ago, but got way-layed.across the canal at Playboy Marina up to my elbows in maintenance. Will keep an eye out in the future. Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <uster@...> wrote : Hello Craig, Wow the fisher panda runs that high!!! How do you like your Northern Light? (asking as I am thinking about buying a house and will consider putting a small genset). Nice you have the Amp meter too! Hope we get to meet one day, always wanted to visit a Santorin! Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/16/18, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] GPS Antenna below deck?
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good afternoon Duane,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
sorry to read about your washing machine problem… Regarding the extra GPS antenna, I had one at the same location. More precisely as you remove the top access of the roof, it next to the big starboard winch, like a disc looking. I was explained mine was in case of emergency (should I press an alarm in case of attack) this is how the ship would be tracked. I did not continue the service as it was required to send the old antenna to be upgraded or reconfigured. Then another was GPS antenna was installed next to that one, it was for the radio Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/16/18, sailor63109@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] GPS Antenna below deck? To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, March 16, 2018, 2:04 PM In tracing down the wiring on the boat I've found another GPS antenna! It provides position data to the ACR Nauticast B AIS. It was installed in the ceiling space above the midship cabin (just fwd of the aft cabin), attached with silicone to the overhead, and it had fallen over and must have been rolling around up there in a heavy sea. We've always had good results from the Nauticast so I'm likely to leave it there, unless there's a good reason not to? Of course I'll improve the mounting situation. I'd appreciate your thoughts.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] GPS Antenna below deck?
Ryan Meador
Fiberglass is mostly transparent to radio waves, so it should have only a tiny impact on signal strength. But GPS (and any satellite) signals are already very weak, so it might be enough to cause you to "see" fewer satellites than you would with a clear view of the sky. It shouldn't cause any position error. Take care that your sensor isn't behind any metal or wood, or even some kinds of paint, which can block signals. Ryan
SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 3:04 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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GPS Antenna below deck?
Duane Siegfri
In tracing down the wiring on the boat I've found another GPS antenna! It provides position data to the ACR Nauticast B AIS. It was installed in the ceiling space above the midship cabin (just fwd of the aft cabin), attached with silicone to the overhead, and it had fallen over and must have been rolling around up there in a heavy sea. We've always had good results from the Nauticast so I'm likely to leave it there, unless there's a good reason not to? Of course I'll improve the mounting situation. I'd appreciate your thoughts.
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Washing Machine Hose Leak - Something to check...
Duane Siegfri
I woke up this morning to our fresh water pump happily pumping away, but nobody was using water! A quick check found that the hose going from the sink cabinet shut-off valve to the port side and then through the cabinet floor (at least on my boat), then to the washing machine had a hole. Where it went through the cabinet floor it had rubbed against the floor enough to put a hole in it. You can easily check this by pulling a bit of the hose upward and feeling along the length. Repair was simple, I simply cut the hose in the deck locker in front of the stove, and used a repair hose barb and ran new hose to the shutoff valve. I also took a piece of 3/4" diameter hose, split it, and put it around the 1/2" hose to protect it from chafe. It would have been much worse if we had left the boat for the day without shutting off the water pump. Another good reason to shut off the water pump! Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Craig,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Wow the fisher panda runs that high!!! How do you like your Northern Light? (asking as I am thinking about buying a house and will consider putting a small genset). Nice you have the Amp meter too! Hope we get to meet one day, always wanted to visit a Santorin! Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/16/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, March 16, 2018, 11:46 AM Hi Alexandre,Yes indeed, my oops; indeed it's 1500/1800 rpms. I was thinking of the Fischer Panda generators that run at 3000/3600 rpms. My genset is a 4.8/6.0 kw Northern Lights at 1500/1800. My AC panel (from Paneltronics, not original Amel) includes an ampmeter so I can see the load on the genset (or shore power). Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <uster@...> wrote : Good morning Craig, If I may step in, the Onan actually run at either 1500 or 1800 rpm depending on its frequency setting. The load is the issue, which why several owner (Bill, Gary, Eric, etc.) have add Alternate Current Multimeter. Illustration of the installation on NIKIMAT: http://www.nikimat.com/blue_sea_ac_multimeter_8247.html Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 3/16/18, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, March 16, 2018, 8:48 AM Hi Eric,You bring up an interesting point when you say you had the same carbon build up problem in your genset exhaust elbow, caused by not running at high enough rpm's. Unless you've got a variable speed genset, it always will be running at a high rpm (3000 or 3600 depending on Hertz), so rpm may not be the only issue. Isn't it low load that's the issue? So when Yanmar says to run the engine way up, no doubt they're assuming it will be in gear and will present a full load from the propeller. I think the genset analogy would be to load it with not just battery charging, but also get the Admiral to run her hair dryer, make toast, wash clothes and iron your shorts. Not a bad regimen, actually.Sound about right?Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <kimberlite@...> wrote : Hi,I had his problem with my genset. It is caused by not running a diesel at about 80% of its redline. Diesels like to work hard. Our diesels are not run that hard so is the main engine.Yanmar suggests to run the engine way up. In my case 3000 rpm for 15 minutes a few time a dayThis blows the carbon out of the turbo and the exhaust system. The carbon is usually glass hard.However if the elbow is not perforated due to corrosion, I would try to break out the carbon.You might try something like a dremel tool with a hard steel bit, or even better a carbide bit ,or a small cutoff disk. Being that they have ordered a new elbow for you, you could go Medieval” on the elbow. On eBay there is a fellow that makes beautiful Yanmar elbows out of stainless steel. They are much better than the factory unit. Possibly he makes elbows for your engine.Fair WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376 From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 12:16 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust I removed the elbow in Point-a-Pitre and it was almost blocked with very hard carbon deposits. I'd guess that it was only 30% open. Even so the engine ran well. The turbo turns freely so is probably OK. Unfortunately, they don't have the elbow here and must order it. Will be at least a week. The mechanic who looked at it said the elbow should be replaced every 3 years. He says that it is not possible to just clean out the carbon, but I don;t understand why not. It's the first I'd heard about the 3 year removal requirement and saw nothing in the Operating Manual which has all of the routine maintenance identified. Just sending this to close out the question. Thanks for all the good suggestions.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Hi Alexandre, Yes indeed, my oops; indeed it's 1500/1800 rpms. I was thinking of the Fischer Panda generators that run at 3000/3600 rpms. My genset is a 4.8/6.0 kw Northern Lights at 1500/1800. My AC panel (from Paneltronics, not original Amel) includes an ampmeter so I can see the load on the genset (or shore power). Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <uster@...> wrote : Good morning Craig, If I may step in, the Onan actually run at either 1500 or 1800 rpm depending on its frequency setting. The load is the issue, which why several owner (Bill, Gary, Eric, etc.) have add Alternate Current Multimeter. Illustration of the installation on NIKIMAT: http://www.nikimat.com/blue_sea_ac_multimeter_8247.html Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/16/18, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Craig,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
If I may step in, the Onan actually run at either 1500 or 1800 rpm depending on its frequency setting. The load is the issue, which why several owner (Bill, Gary, Eric, etc.) have add Alternate Current Multimeter. Illustration of the installation on NIKIMAT: http://www.nikimat.com/blue_sea_ac_multimeter_8247.html Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/16/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, March 16, 2018, 8:48 AM Hi Eric,You bring up an interesting point when you say you had the same carbon build up problem in your genset exhaust elbow, caused by not running at high enough rpm's. Unless you've got a variable speed genset, it always will be running at a high rpm (3000 or 3600 depending on Hertz), so rpm may not be the only issue. Isn't it low load that's the issue? So when Yanmar says to run the engine way up, no doubt they're assuming it will be in gear and will present a full load from the propeller. I think the genset analogy would be to load it with not just battery charging, but also get the Admiral to run her hair dryer, make toast, wash clothes and iron your shorts. Not a bad regimen, actually.Sound about right?Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <kimberlite@...> wrote : Hi,I had his problem with my genset. It is caused by not running a diesel at about 80% of its redline. Diesels like to work hard. Our diesels are not run that hard so is the main engine.Yanmar suggests to run the engine way up. In my case 3000 rpm for 15 minutes a few time a dayThis blows the carbon out of the turbo and the exhaust system. The carbon is usually glass hard.However if the elbow is not perforated due to corrosion, I would try to break out the carbon.You might try something like a dremel tool with a hard steel bit, or even better a carbide bit ,or a small cutoff disk. Being that they have ordered a new elbow for you, you could go Medieval” on the elbow. On eBay there is a fellow that makes beautiful Yanmar elbows out of stainless steel. They are much better than the factory unit. Possibly he makes elbows for your engine.Fair WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376 From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 12:16 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust I removed the elbow in Point-a-Pitre and it was almost blocked with very hard carbon deposits. I'd guess that it was only 30% open. Even so the engine ran well. The turbo turns freely so is probably OK. Unfortunately, they don't have the elbow here and must order it. Will be at least a week. The mechanic who looked at it said the elbow should be replaced every 3 years. He says that it is not possible to just clean out the carbon, but I don;t understand why not. It's the first I'd heard about the 3 year removal requirement and saw nothing in the Operating Manual which has all of the routine maintenance identified. Just sending this to close out the question. Thanks for all the good suggestions.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Clogged up elbows are pretty common. As said by others mainly because of under utilization of the engine's power. You need to push it into 70%-80% of it's power to achieve the high temperatures in the exhaust manifold to burn off the soot. If not, it will start to build-up and become hard.
If your elbow is still looking fairly OK then you can use muriatic/hydrochloric acid to get rid of the soot. Use the same stuff that is used to clean brick-walls. Keep an eye on the process and check the progress regularly. If you see holes starting to show in the injection pipe (that mixes the seawater with the exhaust fumes (look inside the elbow), you will need a new elbow. But you would have needed one anyway as the cast iron corroded completely (not because of the acid but the seawater). As said by others check for elbows on Ebay. There is a US source that makes stainless elbows for about the same price as the regular Volvo one. I bought one of those a while ago (for a VP D2-40), they are impeccable, other then the color there is no difference in appearance and shape. This will last much longer, although cleaning will be required every few years, depending on usage. Cheers, Arno
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Re: Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
John Clark
Last year during the survey of my SM #37 (1990) there was a puff of black smoke and some floating oil sheen, just for a second. Never repeated. The previous owners had not run the genset in several months as they stayed in marinas. The surveyor and Jean Collin, the Amel rep in Le Marin who came along for the sailing part of the survey, both noticed it and both stated that it is normal for an engine that has been idle for a long period.
Over the last year, I have run the genset once a day (when not on shore power) and have not seen a repeat nor have I had any issues with the genset. On the Volvo TAMD22 every once in a while if there is no wind and the motor has not been run in a while I can see some black smoke, which dissipates after a minute of run time. I would monitor the situation and not rush to spend money on it until I was sure there was a problem that needs to be fixed. On the carbon build up, I think it is nonsense to say it cannot be cleaned up. A Dremel took with a stainless steel wire brush would make short work of carbon. If it is really hard then switch to a stone tip wheel. Hope this helps. John John Clark SV Annie SM 37 Rock Sound Harbor, Eleuthera
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Hi Eric, You bring up an interesting point when you say you had the same carbon build up problem in your genset exhaust elbow, caused by not running at high enough rpm's. Unless you've got a variable speed genset, it always will be running at a high rpm (3000 or 3600 depending on Hertz), so rpm may not be the only issue. Isn't it low load that's the issue? So when Yanmar says to run the engine way up, no doubt they're assuming it will be in gear and will present a full load from the propeller. I think the genset analogy would be to load it with not just battery charging, but also get the Admiral to run her hair dryer, make toast, wash clothes and iron your shorts. Not a bad regimen, actually. Sound about right? Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote : Hi, I had his problem with my genset. It is caused by not running a diesel at about 80% of its redline. Diesels like to work hard. Our diesels are not run that hard so is the main engine. Yanmar suggests to run the engine way up. In my case 3000 rpm for 15 minutes a few time a day This blows the carbon out of the turbo and the exhaust system.
The carbon is usually glass hard. However if the elbow is not perforated due to corrosion, I would try to break out the carbon. You might try something like a dremel tool with a hard steel bit, or even better a carbide bit ,or a small cutoff disk. Being that they have ordered a new elbow for you, you could go Medieval” on the elbow.
On eBay there is a fellow that makes beautiful Yanmar elbows out of stainless steel. They are much better than the factory unit. Possibly he makes elbows for your engine. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 12:16 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
I removed the elbow in Point-a-Pitre and it was almost blocked with very hard carbon deposits. I'd guess that it was only 30% open. Even so the engine ran well. The turbo turns freely so is probably OK. Unfortunately, they don't have the elbow here and must order it. Will be at least a week. The mechanic who looked at it said the elbow should be replaced every 3 years. He says that it is not possible to just clean out the carbon, but I don;t understand why not. It's the first I'd heard about the 3 year removal requirement and saw nothing in the Operating Manual which has all of the routine maintenance identified. Just sending this to close out the question. Thanks for all the good suggestions.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Placement of EV-1 sensor for Raymarine EV-400 autopilot
Thomas Peacock
We put in the exact system two years ago. While I had some concern about the proximity to the salon air conditioning unit and freezer, I did place the EV unit in the corner behind the settee, aft. The old flux gate is same location but in forward corner. We have had no problems.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Isles des Saintes
On Mar 14, 2018, at 9:55 AM, dbv_au@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On 16 Mar 2018 7:39 p.m., "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
eric freedman
Hi, I had his problem with my genset. It is caused by not running a diesel at about 80% of its redline. Diesels like to work hard. Our diesels are not run that hard so is the main engine. Yanmar suggests to run the engine way up. In my case 3000 rpm for 15 minutes a few time a day This blows the carbon out of the turbo and the exhaust system.
The carbon is usually glass hard. However if the elbow is not perforated due to corrosion, I would try to break out the carbon. You might try something like a dremel tool with a hard steel bit, or even better a carbide bit ,or a small cutoff disk. Being that they have ordered a new elbow for you, you could go Medieval” on the elbow.
On eBay there is a fellow that makes beautiful Yanmar elbows out of stainless steel. They are much better than the factory unit. Possibly he makes elbows for your engine. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 12:16 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Black Smoke From Volvo Penta Engine Exhaust
I removed the elbow in Point-a-Pitre and it was almost blocked with very hard carbon deposits. I'd guess that it was only 30% open. Even so the engine ran well. The turbo turns freely so is probably OK. Unfortunately, they don't have the elbow here and must order it. Will be at least a week. The mechanic who looked at it said the elbow should be replaced every 3 years. He says that it is not possible to just clean out the carbon, but I don;t understand why not. It's the first I'd heard about the 3 year removal requirement and saw nothing in the Operating Manual which has all of the routine maintenance identified. Just sending this to close out the question. Thanks for all the good suggestions.
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Bow Thruster Bearing Replacement
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi all: While my boat is undergoing hurricane damage repair I am working on routine maintenance. I decided to replace the open bearings in my bow thruster with SS6006-2RS sealed stainless steel bearings. I am leaving the open bearing on the vertical shaft as it looks and feels corrosion free and runs smoothly. However, I am replacing the two bearings on the horizontal shaft that has the bevel gear and to which the prop mounts as they both have corrosion and seem rough. Thanks to Alexandre for his excellent photo essay on this topic. I applied PB Blaster penetrating oil to the seals for two days prior to attempting bearing removal. The bearing mounted to the hub of the bevel gear came off (while not easily) at least with normal effort by prying with screwdrivers. However the gear on the prop shaft side would not budge with a gear puller applying as much pressure as I dared for fear of damaging the composite shaft. Next I heated the assembly in an oven for 30 minutes to 260 deg. F and tried the puller and then a drift hammered circumferentially. No movement. I didn't dare go any hotter for fear of damaging the composite shaft. Lastly, I applied worm clamps to the hub and shaft to protect them from slips and used an abrasive disc on my Dremmel tool to gut and grind the bearing free. It took about 1.5 hrs of grinding (very carefully to avoid damaging the underlying shaft) to cut the bearing free. It seems that it had been applied with some sort of sealant or locking compound. Careful measurements of the shaft and the new bearings indicate that there is a 0.005 inch interference fit on this shaft. I am thinking that is enough to prevent movement and am dis-enclined to put a sealant on the bearing to prevent a repeat of this hassle in the future. I would be interested in the thoughts of anyone in the group who has done this process and/or has more of an engineering background who might be able to offer advice as to the need/desirability of applying some sort of locking material to the bearings. Thanks in advance, Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM #335 Puerto Del Rey Marina (on the hard), Puerto Rico
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Whisker pole
Hello to the Group, We own an Amel 54 and used the spinnaker boom for the genua sometimes together with the gennaker on the other side for downwindsailing.In progress of planning a transatlantic sailing , I am thinking about of using a Forespar LC 15-27 whisker pole for the gennaker or adjusted for the trinquett. Are there any experiences or recommendations? Thank you very much , safe sailing to all of you Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 Marina di Ragusa - now Bradenton Florida
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: new Genoa
yahoogroups@...
David,
Exactly as I thought, but these Amel owners are doing the same thing. I wanted them to hear it from you, a respected sailmaker and an owner of an Amel. Best, Bill Rouse Amel School www.amelschool.com
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mainsail measurements
Patrick McAneny
Dave, Maybe you missed the fact, that I sent Mack Sails, Amels original sail dimensions for a Super Maramu, as well as my old sail. Even though I am confident they could build a sail the correct size based on my old sail , I wanted them to have the factory specs. Which would be more accurate than anyone hoisting a tape measure up the mast, especially in windy conditions,and I live with a tape in my hand and take dozens of measurements everyday. By comparison , Mack Sails would be considered a " smaller loft" and they definately don't "mass produce". Since there is not that many sail makers with lofts producing sails here in the USA. , I would think you would know of Mack Sails and their reputation for excellent sails , especially for cruising boats. Anyway , Thank you for your concern , but everything is good, been down this road before.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: dave_benjamin@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Thu, Mar 15, 2018 5:45 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mainsail measurements Pat,
Guesswork is no way to design and build. I'm sure they have a measurement form you could use to record measurements, or if you don't trust your ability to measure, then pay a rigger for a half hour to come to the boat and complete the form. One of the advantages of dealing with a smaller loft that isn't trying to do mass production is that they can take the time to make things perfect as opposed to just having something that fills a triangle.
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