Date   

Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer

Alan Leslie
 

If you have a look here :


It may be of some help, there are assembly instructions on a link on the page.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ballooner halyard ends

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Bill,
That's very interesting.  None of my halyards have splices in them.  The ends that attach to the head furler are tied on with a bowline, and the other ends are just whipped.  To extend the halyards, I've sewn the extension using whipping twine.  I thought that was the usual way it's done.

I also don't believe any of my lines are seized, I think everywhere that has an eye has a splice.  These lines are clearly not original, though.  But the previous owner did keep the same color scheme, sizes, and materials.

I'm inclined to request a normal, small eye splice on both ends of the new ballooner halyard.  No reason not to make it symmetric, right?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, Mar 27, 2018 at 2:17 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The eye isn't a problem going through the mast. We feed the eye in the main halyard up the mast and over the sheave it every time we take our mainsail down (which will be happening as soon as the wind dies down to fix the leech cord--but that is another story.)  


The core splice on covered high tech line is a lot easier and faster to do than a "regular" double braid eye splice.  I am not sure why Amel used seized loops on all the lines instead of splices, but I suspect is was more than "strong enough" and was at least a bit more "expeditious." 

There is no need to take them apart to thread the line through the mast and over the sheave.  Most of the lines I have replaced, I put "real" splices in.  There have been a few where the length of the slice would interfere with the function, and I kept seizings on those.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Manjack Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

 


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the great info, as always.  Your description makes perfect sense.  So it seems like my setup is missing a shackle (which might be in some drawer somewhere), and the strange splice-in-the-core is not a critical component (and maybe even a stopgap "fix" to a degrading line).  I should just get a normal eye spliced into both ends (one possibly with a shackle).  I wonder if I'll be able to feed the new rope through the mast with an eye on it... I think every other line that has a splice on one end is just whipped on the other end, so you can feed it through one way.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ballooner halyard ends

greatketch@...
 

The eye isn't a problem going through the mast. We feed the eye in the main halyard up the mast and over the sheave it every time we take our mainsail down (which will be happening as soon as the wind dies down to fix the leech cord--but that is another story.)  

The core splice on covered high tech line is a lot easier and faster to do than a "regular" double braid eye splice.  I am not sure why Amel used seized loops on all the lines instead of splices, but I suspect is was more than "strong enough" and was at least a bit more "expeditious." 

There is no need to take them apart to thread the line through the mast and over the sheave.  Most of the lines I have replaced, I put "real" splices in.  There have been a few where the length of the slice would interfere with the function, and I kept seizings on those.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Manjack Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the great info, as always.  Your description makes perfect sense.  So it seems like my setup is missing a shackle (which might be in some drawer somewhere), and the strange splice-in-the-core is not a critical component (and maybe even a stopgap "fix" to a degrading line).  I should just get a normal eye spliced into both ends (one possibly with a shackle).  I wonder if I'll be able to feed the new rope through the mast with an eye on it... I think every other line that has a splice on one end is just whipped on the other end, so you can feed it through one way.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer

SV Perigee
 

Greetings,

Does anyone know the trick to opening the GROHE shower mixer for servicing?

Ours is etched with the letters indicating a model number: PA IX 4079 / IC  KIWA.

Thanks, in anticipation.

David
SV Perigee SM#396
St Maarten



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ballooner halyard ends

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the great info, as always.  Your description makes perfect sense.  So it seems like my setup is missing a shackle (which might be in some drawer somewhere), and the strange splice-in-the-core is not a critical component (and maybe even a stopgap "fix" to a degrading line).  I should just get a normal eye spliced into both ends (one possibly with a shackle).  I wonder if I'll be able to feed the new rope through the mast with an eye on it... I think every other line that has a splice on one end is just whipped on the other end, so you can feed it through one way.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 9:17 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,


It is a little tough to describe, because if there are standard terms for this, I am not sure what they are, but I hope this makes sense...

The end of the ballooner halyard that comes down from the top of the mast (the "high end") should have a loop on it, and the other end (the "low end") should have a shackle.  The shackle attached to the rail IS normal, and is there just to secure the "high end" by its loop while it is not being used.

While putting the sail UP the loop on the "high end" of the halyard is hooked on the "latching mouse" at the top of the sail, and the shackle on the "low end" of the halyard is attached to the loop on the "high end" of the halyard, allowing you to pull it back down--free of the mouse--once the sail is latched on top of the foil.

When using the "de-hooking" mouse, the shackle on the "low end" of the halyard is attached to the loop on the de-latching mouse AND to the loop on the "high end" of the halyard, letting you pull it up, and then back down again.

The rigging company should understand a "spliced loop" on one end, and a "spliced loop with shackle" on the other.

The only change we made to the original setup was to replace the key shackle with a snap shackle.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Manjack Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :


Hi all,
I'm getting some new running rigging, and while figuring out what is needed, I was quite confused by the ends of the halyard that I believe is for the ballooner (which I have yet to fly since I bought the boat).  I've attached a couple photos of the two ends.

The end at the mast has that loop in it... is that normal?  What is it for?  How do I instruct the rope company to make that?

And on the other end, it appears the shackle is permanently attached to the boat, not to the line... is that also normal?  I see a shackle in the ballooner section of the Amel manual, but it doesn't clearly show how it attaches.  I know want to hook the two ends of the line together to form a loop before sending the ballooner up so I can get it back down.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] lost my bowthruster

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

thanks for reply
I am in Guadeloupe - Marina du bas du fort
still searching even though limited by traffic in channel , poor visibility & loads of mud ...

christian alby - Désirade VIII - maramu 116 - Marina Bas du Fort Guadeloupe

Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80


Le ‎lundi‎ ‎26‎ ‎mars‎ ‎2018‎ ‎18‎:‎46‎:‎31‎ ‎-04, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :


 

Hi Porter Courtney here I am on dock 3 and here is my Cell I will be around the boat tomorrow afternoon as Alban is stopping by. Please come by if you can or call 7656038743

Cheers 
Courtney 
sv Trippin 


On Mar 26, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Sad situation. Dive gear is the answer.  I’ll go over for an oring. Grill grate. Dinghy lock. Anything. Replacement effort>>>finding effort. At least for me. 

A set of teen girls hungry for cash also helps. 

Porter 
Amel 54-152
Arriving Marin, Martinique!  

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:43 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Christina Alby,


   Sorry to hear about the loss of your bow thruster.  If I understand you correctly, the thruster simply feel out due to the loss of the retaining bolts so it may be undamaged?  If so, I would be inclined to do a pretty serious search for the bow thruster. The assembly being fibreglass is quite light so might not sink far into the mud.  I would suggest hiring a diver to have a good look to see if the unit can be recovered.  If the water clarity is really poor, an underwater metal detector should pick up the metal drive shaft. 

   The shaft hole could be closed with a thick (3/4- 1”)  piece of plywood (be sure that the glue is exterior grade) inside and outside of the hole + a compressible gasket using a bolt passing through the center of the plywood to compress the gasket.  

   There is recent discussion on the BB about plugging the shaft hole and filling the exterior cutout.
 
   I really hope that you can find your old bow thruster.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Mar 26, 2018, at 6:18 AM, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


during port movement to take in diesel & cast off to Europe, I lost my bowthruster (mechanical part) due apparently to 3 screws linking tube to motor coming off (my fault leaving protection on & masking the screws & collar when moving the bowthruster asm).

went down in about 1 M of mud; definetly lost.

I am building a dummy in steel to enter the well & close the ingress of water but also to resist the water surge in well when sailing in heavy seas.

Anybody tried it before ? tips, clues on design, risks (bolt shearing, steel dummy damaging hull ...).

I shall go slow & look for the high pressure zone to avoid heavy seas but the passage from Guadeloupe to Gibraltar is minimum 21 to 26 days ... with lows hitting the north Atlantic ...

all ideas welcome, fellows.

fair winds


christian alby - Désirade VIII - maramu 116 - now in Guadeloupe, Marina Bas du Fort




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rats!

Paul Osterberg
 

Duane!
Rats typically move close to the wall and avoid open space. When we had a rat aboard we caught him already the first night when we finally got a real spring rat trap.
We took away all rat goodies we could find. and set the trap with what we know rats likes, actually they like thing like mars bars or cheese. 
We put the trap in the galley bench along  the "wall"  then we put some obstruction along the wall to make some kind of a corridor the rat has to pas along to reach the goodies. We then took hide in the cock pit, after ca 10 minutes we heard the rat running along in the cabin.  Snapp the trap gone but no rat, as the rat came from the wrong direction in the corridor, we amended the corridor to a one way and in the second attempt we got him
Good luck
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rats!

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Duane,

yes he was some rat. We told the unfortunate boat owner he was too valuable to kill. One that smart with training would have been worth a fortune. Seriously though. In Rural New Zealand rats are not uncommon. Mostly we keep them out of the house but occasionally in the winter they try to move in. We use a poison to kill them. It is a block bait and an important feature is that after taking the bait and before they die they get very thirsty so they leave the house to find water. Thus no smelly carcasses. So long as they didn't have access to water to drink on the boat I would expect they would leave the boat to find fresh water. Might be worth a try.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

On 27 March 2018 at 13:15 "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danny,


I certainly hope our rat doesn't have that advanced a degree in Trap Avoidance.  But now, we are going on 10 days since he chewed through a water hose under the galley sink so he may be of the same school.  We currently have three spring traps, 10 glue boards and one electrocution tunnel (I'm not kidding about that one, they had it at Lowes).

I think he's under the freezer (based on the fluffly insulation coming from there) and am thinking about a wild solution like flooding that space and then putting a gazillion volts to the water....or shotgun(s)...or maybe I need a vacation.

I did read this morning that one should not handle the traps without gloves since your skin oil will alert the rat to your plans.  I wish the manufacturers would have mentioned that one.  Mice didn't seem to care back in the midwest.

We're keeping the watertight bulkhead doors closed in hopes we can isolate him to the main cabin.  He could still find the conduit ways, but I've plugged them with copper pot scrubbers.  This is getting to be a protracted war.

By the way, we named him Sammy (remember the Rat Pack?).  That way Peg doesn't have to say the word "Rat".  Just saying the word makes her nauseous.  I might be living alone if Sammy doesn't take us up on one of our "presents".

Duane

 


 


Re: ballooner halyard ends

greatketch@...
 

Ryan,

It is a little tough to describe, because if there are standard terms for this, I am not sure what they are, but I hope this makes sense...

The end of the ballooner halyard that comes down from the top of the mast (the "high end") should have a loop on it, and the other end (the "low end") should have a shackle.  The shackle attached to the rail IS normal, and is there just to secure the "high end" by its loop while it is not being used.

While putting the sail UP the loop on the "high end" of the halyard is hooked on the "latching mouse" at the top of the sail, and the shackle on the "low end" of the halyard is attached to the loop on the "high end" of the halyard, allowing you to pull it back down--free of the mouse--once the sail is latched on top of the foil.

When using the "de-hooking" mouse, the shackle on the "low end" of the halyard is attached to the loop on the de-latching mouse AND to the loop on the "high end" of the halyard, letting you pull it up, and then back down again.

The rigging company should understand a "spliced loop" on one end, and a "spliced loop with shackle" on the other.

The only change we made to the original setup was to replace the key shackle with a snap shackle.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Manjack Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,
I'm getting some new running rigging, and while figuring out what is needed, I was quite confused by the ends of the halyard that I believe is for the ballooner (which I have yet to fly since I bought the boat).  I've attached a couple photos of the two ends.

The end at the mast has that loop in it... is that normal?  What is it for?  How do I instruct the rope company to make that?

And on the other end, it appears the shackle is permanently attached to the boat, not to the line... is that also normal?  I see a shackle in the ballooner section of the Amel manual, but it doesn't clearly show how it attaches.  I know want to hook the two ends of the line together to form a loop before sending the ballooner up so I can get it back down.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rats!

Duane Siegfri
 

Danny,

I certainly hope our rat doesn't have that advanced a degree in Trap Avoidance.  But now, we are going on 10 days since he chewed through a water hose under the galley sink so he may be of the same school.  We currently have three spring traps, 10 glue boards and one electrocution tunnel (I'm not kidding about that one, they had it at Lowes).

I think he's under the freezer (based on the fluffly insulation coming from there) and am thinking about a wild solution like flooding that space and then putting a gazillion volts to the water....or shotgun(s)...or maybe I need a vacation.

I did read this morning that one should not handle the traps without gloves since your skin oil will alert the rat to your plans.  I wish the manufacturers would have mentioned that one.  Mice didn't seem to care back in the midwest.

We're keeping the watertight bulkhead doors closed in hopes we can isolate him to the main cabin.  He could still find the conduit ways, but I've plugged them with copper pot scrubbers.  This is getting to be a protracted war.

By the way, we named him Sammy (remember the Rat Pack?).  That way Peg doesn't have to say the word "Rat".  Just saying the word makes her nauseous.  I might be living alone if Sammy doesn't take us up on one of our "presents".

Duane


HULL GELCOAT REFURBISHING PROJECT - OLDER MARAMU

Alejandro Paquin
 

Hello to all, 

I just wanted to share in a few words what we are doing on the boat, for those who asked . The boat has been on the hard since January 22nd 2018, in NAVIMCA Shipyard, in the city of Cumaná, Venezuela, state of Sucre. (by the way it  is the oldest continuously-inhabited, European-established settlement in the continent).

In 2012-2013 Simpatico got new gelcoat on the deck, dodge, (removed), cockpit, deck storage spaces, and heads (fiberglass areas). At this time we also repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4-HTE engine (only engine available at the time in Venezuela) and refurbished engine room, the vinyl floors, upholstery, mattresses, refrigerator, nav instruments and electronics. Simpatico has no fuel generator and relies on 400W solar and 400W wind generators, with a 430 Ah battery bank.

I posted some pictures of the yard and the progress of the work, carried out by a friend of ours, which we estimate will last about 120 days. The yard just provides the space and the basic services.

We will be applying about 60 Kg of fresh gelcoat  by INTEQUIM), a primer and antifouling by Montana, all manufactured in Venezuela.

So basically the old gelcoat has been sanded down, all old layers of antifouling removed. So the fiberglass is being repaired where needed, especially the keel, the sides and the aft area which had a lot of damage, after 37 years in the water. So the gelcoat will be sprayed on, and sanded numerous times until we get a good smooth durable coat.

The costs of this job in local currency is very competitive (the yard will be about US$400 including use of the Travelift). It is 5 hours driving from home, but worth the trouble. The weather is good (28ºC) no rain, a little too windy for spraying, we hope it dies down a  bit in the coming days.

Alex Paquin

SIMPATICO

Older Maramu 1981

Hull#94

 


Re: OLDER MARAMU RUDDER REMOVAL

Alejandro Paquin
 

Hello just to follow up on the topic of rudder removal, we decided this week to abandon the idea, since it is an unnecessary complication to our work. Thanks to Olivier, Christian and Miles for your comments on this matter, your advice is well received.
I will create a new topic:  Hull Gelcoat Refurbishing Project, since it is more in line with the work I´m having done on the boat.
Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Hull# 94
Older Maramu 1891


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] lost my bowthruster

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi Porter Courtney here I am on dock 3 and here is my Cell I will be around the boat tomorrow afternoon as Alban is stopping by. Please come by if you can or call 7656038743
Cheers 
Courtney 
sv Trippin 


On Mar 26, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Sad situation. Dive gear is the answer.  I’ll go over for an oring. Grill grate. Dinghy lock. Anything. Replacement effort>>>finding effort. At least for me. 

A set of teen girls hungry for cash also helps. 

Porter 
Amel 54-152
Arriving Marin, Martinique!  

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:43 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Christina Alby,


   Sorry to hear about the loss of your bow thruster.  If I understand you correctly, the thruster simply feel out due to the loss of the retaining bolts so it may be undamaged?  If so, I would be inclined to do a pretty serious search for the bow thruster. The assembly being fibreglass is quite light so might not sink far into the mud.  I would suggest hiring a diver to have a good look to see if the unit can be recovered.  If the water clarity is really poor, an underwater metal detector should pick up the metal drive shaft. 

   The shaft hole could be closed with a thick (3/4- 1”)  piece of plywood (be sure that the glue is exterior grade) inside and outside of the hole + a compressible gasket using a bolt passing through the center of the plywood to compress the gasket.  

   There is recent discussion on the BB about plugging the shaft hole and filling the exterior cutout.
 
   I really hope that you can find your old bow thruster.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Mar 26, 2018, at 6:18 AM, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


during port movement to take in diesel & cast off to Europe, I lost my bowthruster (mechanical part) due apparently to 3 screws linking tube to motor coming off (my fault leaving protection on & masking the screws & collar when moving the bowthruster asm).

went down in about 1 M of mud; definetly lost.

I am building a dummy in steel to enter the well & close the ingress of water but also to resist the water surge in well when sailing in heavy seas.

Anybody tried it before ? tips, clues on design, risks (bolt shearing, steel dummy damaging hull ...).

I shall go slow & look for the high pressure zone to avoid heavy seas but the passage from Guadeloupe to Gibraltar is minimum 21 to 26 days ... with lows hitting the north Atlantic ...

all ideas welcome, fellows.

fair winds


christian alby - Désirade VIII - maramu 116 - now in Guadeloupe, Marina Bas du Fort




ballooner halyard ends

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,
I'm getting some new running rigging, and while figuring out what is needed, I was quite confused by the ends of the halyard that I believe is for the ballooner (which I have yet to fly since I bought the boat).  I've attached a couple photos of the two ends.

The end at the mast has that loop in it... is that normal?  What is it for?  How do I instruct the rope company to make that?

And on the other end, it appears the shackle is permanently attached to the boat, not to the line... is that also normal?  I see a shackle in the ballooner section of the Amel manual, but it doesn't clearly show how it attaches.  I know want to hook the two ends of the line together to form a loop before sending the ballooner up so I can get it back down.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: Wind vane steering

sbmesasailor
 

Hi Miles,

We used our Hydrovane for the entire Pacific crossing.  It was really an energy saver.  By the time we got to the Atlantic, we had purchased a second drive motor for the Raymarine autopilot.  We ended up not using the Hydrovane for the Atlantic crossing because the wind was light and variable (a result of Hurricane Alex).  We had also increased our solar array by then and so the drain on the batteries was somewhat mitigated as we used the autopilot for the entire crossing.  The motor did not fail and the autopilot seems bullet proof as long as you don't make a mistake and break the clutch by manually turning the helm in an emergency. 

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu #121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Genset starter voltage drop

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;
 
The most likely issues with low voltage at the starter when a load is placed, assuming that the wiring has been sized properly are:
 
  1. A weak starter battery,
  2. A bad connection somewhere along the line from the battery to the starter.
  3. Damage/corrosion to a portion of the wiring that has led to increased resistance to a portion of the wire.
  4. Internal issues with the starter that lead to higher than required Amp draw.
I am not familiar with the white box you speak of. Our 54 being only one model younger than yours, I would assume that we must have the same but have not run into it as of yet. We are not currently on board, so I cannot help much in that regard. There may be and issue within this box. However, the fact that you have only 9 Volts under load before this white box, indicates an issue prior to this point also. I would not expect the voltage to get any lower than 10.5 Volts when the genset starter is engaged.
 
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 5:25 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Genset starter voltage drop

 

Hi all,

I'm seeing  voltage drop to my Onan 11KVA genset to the point that the starter won't turn enough to start the generator. The drop seems to be mostly between the input to the white control box and its output to the starter. I have been unsuccessful in pinning it down to any particular terminal and suspect there may be a connection hidden somewhere in this white box. Under load the voltage at the input to the white box is about 9V, and at the output about 6V. I did not yet dismantle the white box because it means uncoupling the exhaust I wonder if anyone has any experience of this and would be able to provide some advice.

At the same I would just like to say that I'm very grateful for all the help I've been given by members of this forum and hope that one day I may know enough to be able to reciprocate!

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] lost my bowthruster

Porter McRoberts
 

Sad situation. Dive gear is the answer.  I’ll go over for an oring. Grill grate. Dinghy lock. Anything. Replacement effort>>>finding effort. At least for me. 
A set of teen girls hungry for cash also helps. 

Porter 
Amel 54-152
Arriving Marin, Martinique!  

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:43 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Christina Alby,


   Sorry to hear about the loss of your bow thruster.  If I understand you correctly, the thruster simply feel out due to the loss of the retaining bolts so it may be undamaged?  If so, I would be inclined to do a pretty serious search for the bow thruster. The assembly being fibreglass is quite light so might not sink far into the mud.  I would suggest hiring a diver to have a good look to see if the unit can be recovered.  If the water clarity is really poor, an underwater metal detector should pick up the metal drive shaft. 

   The shaft hole could be closed with a thick (3/4- 1”)  piece of plywood (be sure that the glue is exterior grade) inside and outside of the hole + a compressible gasket using a bolt passing through the center of the plywood to compress the gasket.  

   There is recent discussion on the BB about plugging the shaft hole and filling the exterior cutout.
 
   I really hope that you can find your old bow thruster.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Mar 26, 2018, at 6:18 AM, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


during port movement to take in diesel & cast off to Europe, I lost my bowthruster (mechanical part) due apparently to 3 screws linking tube to motor coming off (my fault leaving protection on & masking the screws & collar when moving the bowthruster asm).

went down in about 1 M of mud; definetly lost.

I am building a dummy in steel to enter the well & close the ingress of water but also to resist the water surge in well when sailing in heavy seas.

Anybody tried it before ? tips, clues on design, risks (bolt shearing, steel dummy damaging hull ...).

I shall go slow & look for the high pressure zone to avoid heavy seas but the passage from Guadeloupe to Gibraltar is minimum 21 to 26 days ... with lows hitting the north Atlantic ...

all ideas welcome, fellows.

fair winds


christian alby - Désirade VIII - maramu 116 - now in Guadeloupe, Marina Bas du Fort




Re: 'Cristec Devolteur'

alanwood123@...
 

Thanks Olivier.. 

I wondered why I couldn't find anything about it on the forums!  From what I can see, the wires seem to terminate at a junction box in front of the charger.. but can't be 100% certain.  My knowledge of DC systems is minimal so I'll heed your advice and find someone to de-commission it.  Does it need an 'Amel' familiar electrician or is it quite a straight forward for any boat electrician? 

Cheers

Woody  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Genset starter voltage drop

 

Most of the time the issue is a weak starting battery. The Onan is vulnerable because the legnth of wire from the battery is twice as long as your main engine. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Mar 26, 2018, 07:25 sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm seeing  voltage drop to my Onan 11KVA genset to the point that the starter won't turn enough to start the generator. The drop seems to be mostly between the input to the white control box and its output to the starter. I have been unsuccessful in pinning it down to any particular terminal and suspect there may be a connection hidden somewhere in this white box. Under load the voltage at the input to the white box is about 9V, and at the output about 6V. I did not yet dismantle the white box because it means uncoupling the exhaust I wonder if anyone has any experience of this and would be able to provide some advice.

At the same I would just like to say that I'm very grateful for all the help I've been given by members of this forum and hope that one day I may know enough to be able to reciprocate!

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main sail outhaul boom block replacement

 

I think you should find that it is a common size and most any Rigger will be able to help you with a replacement.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Mar 26, 2018, 07:04 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi all,

Can anyone advise on a good replacement solution for the foot block at the end of the boom for the outhaul loop? Ours is showing signs of stiffness. 

Antal no longer make the original in our dimensions (75\14), only much bigger :

I believe Amel use the same block on the 54 and, at least, the SM2k. I would advise to check yours, as it suffers silently. 

Fear winds,


Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54 #122
St Martin