Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

greatketch@...
 

Capillary systems are notoriously difficult to get a correct charge with.

Here is Coastal Climate Control's take on the issue...


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Moraine Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator pump not working

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Hi Mohammad,


I removed the two capacitors on the high-pressure pump and measured their capacitance.  The first was 18mfd and the second measured 25mfd.  I assumed they should have been 30mfd each.  I replaced them with two new 30mfd and the pump started.  Subsequently, I looked through the owners group data and found a reference to 2-30mfd for the high-pressure pump.  I believe the posting was from Bill Rouse, however I went back to find the data to give proper credit and cannot find it again.

 

With those two large capacitors on your high-pressure pump you may want to check the amp draw and verify it is within the nameplate rating on the motor.  Thanks for your earlier reply.

Mark Mueller
A 54 – 68, Brass Ring
Fort Lauderdale



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

ya_fohi
 

Mohammed,

Thanks. I have in fact comae across this and it does seem like a good diagnostic guide but it does not tell me how much refrigerant to put in.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;
 
The following is an article that I had run into when I was debugging an issue with our refrigerator. It is on Coastal Climate Control's website. As mentioned on the forum, they seem to be proficient in what they do and therefore I would consider the source reliable.
 
 

R124a cannisterThere is much talk and discussion in certain forums about how to determine the correct refrigerant charge level for a capillary tube refrigeration system, but there is only one, simple method that will result in the perfect charge in a Frigoboast system; the frost-line method. Pressures and current draw can be monitored to confirm that these are within expected limits, but there is no better way to guage the refrigerant level than with the frost-line method.

Frigoboat R134a charge guidelines

General
The following is intended to be a guide for a boat operator with average mechanical skills. It will describe what symptoms to look for in a correctly charged Frigoboat system so that an evaluation can be made as to whether service is required. No refrigerant gauges are necessary for this evaluation, and their use is required only for major repairs and for evacuating the system.

Warning!
Never use, or allow a technician to use, anything other than pure refrigerant R134a in a Frigoboat system. Cans of refrigerant R134a with additives must never be used, nor must stand-alone additives be introduced into the system. These additives include but are not limited to: leak detecting fluid, leak stopper, dye, extra oil, conditioner, etc. Serious damage can result from the use of such products, which are designed for use only in auto air conditioning systems.

Symptoms of correct and incorrect charge

Correctly charged system
The Frigoboat systems are capillary tube systems, and require a precise refrigerant charge to work at maximum efficiency. Too much or too little refrigerant will result in a systems that will have some cooling effect, but will not be working to it’s full potential. In a Frigoboat system, the temperature of the evaporator is directly related to the amount of refrigerant in the system. There should be enough refrigerant in the system so that the last of the liquid is evaporating back to a vapor at the very end of the evaporator, and just as it enters the suction tube back to the compressor. After running for a time, there should be a slight coating of frost all over the surface of the evaporator, and there should be no condensation or frost on the exposed section of copper tube back to the compressor, and no condensation on the compressor itself. If the system has been installed correctly, the short length of insulation supplied with the system should be positioned on the copper tube starting where it exits the refrigerated box. No other insulation is required, and any extra that has been installed will only cause the system to run at less than maximum efficiency and may conceal symptoms of an overcharge. This short length of insulation is installed to prevent any condensation that may occur as the cold tube leaves the refrigerated box and is exposed to hot, humid air. In a properly charged system, there should be a “tinny, gurgling” sound from the evaporator.

Slightly undercharged system
If there is too little refrigerant in the system, it will have evaporated back to a vapor before it reaches the end of the evaporator. Some of the surface will have a coating of frost, but from the point where the refrigerant has turned all to vapor, the surface will be cold and sweating. The frost begins at end of the capillary tube, where the liquid refrigerant is fed into the evaporator. The evaporator will probably sound the same as a properly charged system.

Seriously undercharged system
If the system is seriously undercharged, the refrigerant may exist in the system only as a vapor, and so there will be no frosting on the evaporator, just a slight sweating and coldness to the touch. In this condition there will probably be a constant hissing sound from the evaporator. This sound is important in identifying if the system is undercharged or overcharged.

Slightly overcharged system
Too much refrigerant in the system will result in liquid still evaporating back to a gas past the end of the evaporator and inside the tubing going back to the compressor. This means that there is still some of the refrigeration process going on inside the tubing, and there will be a build-up of frost or ice on the exposed section. If additional insulation has been added, it may be concealing this symptom and should be removed. The evaporator may appear and sound normal, but will be at a higher temperature than desired, resulting in longer than expected run times.

Seriously overcharged system
If so much refrigerant exists in the system that it raises the temperature of the evaporator above 32 deg F, the surface will only be sweating and cold to the touch, resembling an undercharged condition. But the copper lines leading back to the compressor, and maybe even the compressor itself, will also be cold and sweating, and there will probably be a sound similar to a mountain stream coming from the evaporator. This is a potentially damaging condition as liquid can reach the compressor where it can damage the valves, since refrigeration compressors are designed to compress gas only.

 
 
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 3:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

 

Hi all,

Would anyone know where I can find an idiots guide to re-charging a friogboat fridge whcih uses R134A refrigerant?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rescueing method of casualty (Person Over Board)

greatketch@...
 

Lifting horizontally???  

I hear the logic and understand the physiology, but that really has to be balanced against the extra time, and complexity of lifting someone horizontally--which is virtually impossible with the number of crew and equipment normally available on cruising sailboats.  The number of victims who are in that narrow band where they will experience a dramatically better outcome ONLY because they were lifted horizontally, is really small.

If this is really the RYA's standard recommendation for routine MOB recovery, in my opinion, it is unrealistic and impractical--no matter how valid its theoretical benefits. I'd expect better, and more practical, advice from them.

Think about this. It is way more complex than just lifting someone with two lines...  if you attach one at the chest, where to you attach the other?  How many people does this take to rig and execute?

In any man-overboard situation, rapid recovery will trump perfect technique--every time.

Any halyard on an Amel is capable of lifting someone out of the water, and any of the winches, manual or electric, will give enough power to lift someone two or three meters.

I have had the valuable experience of participating in an organized evaluation of man-overboard recovery techniques as the "volunteer" in the water who had to be lifted into the boat by a variety of techniques.  It is not easy with a short handed crew and a victim who might not be able to offer much assistance themselves.  

If there is only one person left on board, I would not recommend using the mizzen boom as a lifting crane unless the victim is alert and fully functional.  The danger is if the boat is rolling at all, a person hanging off the end of the boom will swing wildly from side to side, unless they can hold on to something, or someone is on deck can restrain the boom's swing. Maybe you could rig something up, but that would just take more time.The person at the winch in the cockpit is also out of visual and easy auditory contact with the victim.  

It really is an easy ride up out of the water on any mast top halyard in a lifesling, or even just in a bowline.  Just remember, have the victim face in toward the boat so the lifting halyard is between their head and the hull.  This was an important lesson learned, if the victim is face out, the back of his head bangs against the hull as he is lifted.  Unless someone is there at the rail to hold them, do not lift them all the way over the liferails with the halyard, even in calm conditions they will pendulum around wildly.

SOOO much depends on the conditions, the strength and number of remaining crew, and especially the condition of the victim.  Are they conscious?  Hypothermic?  Wearing a lifejacket?  A harness?  Are they panicked?  

We found a lifesling to be a valuable tool to lift someone.  It was easy to get into, even for a victim with restricted mobility, and was simple for the crew onboard to reach and attach to.

If there are two crew left aboard, it might be best to use a mizzen halyard to lift/slide a marginally conscious person up the slope of the reverse transom, if the boat is not pitching too badly.

If there is one person left onboard, and the victim in the water is incapable of helping in any meaningful way, there are no sure-fire solutions in rough conditions.  It is a situation I hope I never have to deal with.

Finally... most inflatable lifevests have a serious design flaw.  When inflated it is impossible for the rescue crew or the victim to attach a line to the lifting harness because the attachment point is buried and inaccessible below the inflated bladders.  With many of them, there is no provision AT ALL for snagging the person in the water with a boathook to hold them alongside. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Moraine Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


Isolated ground on the Genset

eric freedman
 

I was doing some work on my MDKAV generator. I thought I would measure the isolated ground.

I put a voltmeter on the isolated ground solenoid case and the 12 volt + battery cable.

The voltmeter read 12 volts. I also clipped the lead on to the bonding strap that is bolted to the engine pan and the 12 volt + cable. I also read 12 volts on the voltmeter. My thinking is that there should not be a negative battery connection between the solenoid case (which is bolted to the engine) or the bonding strap.

Any explanation, ideas?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Frigoboat re-charging

ya_fohi
 

Hi all,

Would anyone know where I can find an idiots guide to re-charging a friogboat fridge whcih uses R134A refrigerant?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Genset starter voltage drop

ya_fohi
 

Thanks Mohammed. I believe its probably cable connectors as its 10 years old now - I'll be having a look at them in the coming days. The white box I refer to houses the generator electrics.
Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wind vane steering

smiles bernard
 

Thanks for this info Dennis
Sounds like you had all bases covered with hydrovane, autopilot and spare autopilot drive. 
I think I’m going to go against my instinct and not instal a wind vane. In large part this decision is one centered on cost. Not just the cost of the unit but more so the fact that our solar arch/davits overhang the transom. Ie no gap at all for the wind vane to protrude above the solar panel. As such I would also need to redesign the arch. 

Instead I might beef up the solar we have currently and look for a spare rotary drive unit. I wonder if these are available as reconditioned items so will ask a  repair Center  here in the uk. 

Many thanks again 
Fair winds
Miles #162 older Maramu 


On 26 Mar 2018, at 22:26, Dennis Johns sbmesasailor@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Miles,

We used our Hydrovane for the entire Pacific crossing.  It was really an energy saver.  By the time we got to the Atlantic, we had purchased a second drive motor for the Raymarine autopilot.  We ended up not using the Hydrovane for the Atlantic crossing because the wind was light and variable (a result of Hurricane Alex).  We had also increased our solar array by then and so the drain on the batteries was somewhat mitigated as we used the autopilot for the entire crossing.  The motor did not fail and the autopilot seems bullet proof as long as you don't make a mistake and break the clutch by manually turning the helm in an emergency. 

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu #121


[Amel Yacht Owners] SM Keel bolts

eric freedman
 

Hi Ian,

I know there Is a drawing of the bonding strap is somewhere in the photos or possibly the files section of the Amel website.

 

I made mine out of a very thick wide piece of copper plate probably thicker than 1/8 of an inch.

To save a lot of soldering, I cut the top of the old bonding strap off and

soldered and bolted the old top of the plate, with wires attached, to the new strap. You need a torch to do this.

 

I do recall I used a 30 mm socket to remove the nut. However I do not remember the diameter of the bolt. It was at least 25 mm.

 

I used a large socket wrench with a number of extensions attached to remove and replace the nut. I taped the extensions together so they would not separate while working with the nut. Once the nut was removed I used a grabber tool to recover the nut.

 

It looks like this- https://www.homedepot.com/p/GrabEasy-Grabber-and-Retriever-PF0401/202505170.

You need a long one. It has come in handy over the years to recover other stuff dropped into the bilge.

 

To replace the nut I just put some masking tape over the edges of the nut and the socket. It was rather easy.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 1:06 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Keel bolts

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

Just completed the job in Port Grimaud.

 

On hull 461 we required a 30mm “deep reach” socket to undo the keel bolt.

 

The hole in the copper strip we used was 2mm diameter.

 

We had our strip made up in UK for £120 including all the drilling, bending and delivery.

 

If you are in UK give me a call and I’ll talk you through our experience.  You should have our card somewhere.

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Solitude

SM2K 461


On 31 Mar 2018, at 16:32, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 Hi all,

 

Does anyone know the diameter of the keel bolt in the grey water bilge in the engine room of an SM ? I am making up the copper strip that bolts on to the aft bolt but I'm not on board and don't know how big to make the hole on the copper strip.

 

     Ian and Judy,

 Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Keel bolts

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Ian,

Hole size should read 22mm

On 31 Mar 2018, at 18:05, Mike Johnson mike.k.johnson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ian,

Just completed the job in Port Grimaud.

On hull 461 we required a 30mm “deep reach” socket to undo the keel bolt.

The hole in the copper strip we used was 2mm diameter.

We had our strip made up in UK for £120 including all the drilling, bending and delivery.

If you are in UK give me a call and I’ll talk you through our experience.  You should have our card somewhere.

Regards

Mike

Solitude
SM2K 461

On 31 Mar 2018, at 16:32, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 Hi all,


Does anyone know the diameter of the keel bolt in the grey water bilge in the engine room of an SM ? I am making up the copper strip that bolts on to the aft bolt but I'm not on board and don't know how big to make the hole on the copper strip.


     Ian and Judy,

 Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Keel bolts

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Ian,

Just completed the job in Port Grimaud.

On hull 461 we required a 30mm “deep reach” socket to undo the keel bolt.

The hole in the copper strip we used was 2mm diameter.

We had our strip made up in UK for £120 including all the drilling, bending and delivery.

If you are in UK give me a call and I’ll talk you through our experience.  You should have our card somewhere.

Regards

Mike

Solitude
SM2K 461

On 31 Mar 2018, at 16:32, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 Hi all,


Does anyone know the diameter of the keel bolt in the grey water bilge in the engine room of an SM ? I am making up the copper strip that bolts on to the aft bolt but I'm not on board and don't know how big to make the hole on the copper strip.


     Ian and Judy,

 Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza, Greece


where do you store your tools?

eric freedman
 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1140528980

 

I believe this is the absolute best way to store tools.

I also has Amel add a drawer under the lowest step. I use this for everyday tools.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

Hi all,

I'm wondering where you store all your tools.  I feel like most of us are very handy, so we must have a lot of them.  I use many of my tools on a near-daily basis, so I like to keep them easily accessible.  I've filled both of the drawers beneath the starboard settee, and I still have more tools that need homes!  Is there some awesome storage place I haven't thought of?  Where do you keep yours?

 

Thanks,

Ryan

SM 233 Iteration

Boston, MA, USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rescueing method of casualty (Person Over Board)

Mike Johnson
 

Hi James,

I’m not a medical expert but this is the rational that was given to us.

The basic physiology is that anyone who has been in the water for a period of time has the blood in the lower limbs supported by the water and there is less blood in the lower half of the body.

When lifted vertically out of the water the blood the flows more rapidly to the lower limbs.  Therefore, blood pressure lowers rapidly and heightens the risk of cardiac arrest.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Mike & Peta

Solitude
SM2K 461

On 31 Mar 2018, at 17:17, James Studdart james.studdart@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Can anyone elaborate on why the RYA suggests people are lifted horizontally? I find that hard to believe. The idea of using two lines to lift a casualty out of the water fills me with dread of tangles, loops and over complication. Why double weight? Surely a wet person weighs the same vertical or horizontal.

Cheers,
James
SV SeaBean, SM344
Moorea

On Sat, Mar 31, 2018 at 00:22 Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Phillip,

I believe that the way the Super Maramu was designed, rigged, and equipped, it may be superior to any other sailboat regarding your rescue questions.

The mizzen mast was rigged with 2 each 10mm halyards (1 port and 1 stbd) each capable of lifting at least 1000 pounds. Each can be hauled using the electric main sheet winch. More importantly, there is a block for each at the end of the mizzen boom which will aid in holding the retrieved person off the boat. With the mizzen sheet loose, the end of the  mizzen boom will elevate when the halyard shackle meets the boom block, allowing you to swing the boom and person up and over the rail.

However, all above is based on how the Super Maramu was designed and built and may not be true with a particular Super Maramu owned by a non-caring owner, or a smarter person than Henri Amel.I hope this helps you. If you need more information, please contact me. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Sat, Mar 31, 2018, 05:43 philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear experienced AMEL Yacht Owners,


Does anybody has experience in rescueing a casualty on Super Maramus? I'm instructor for ISAF courses and I'm thinking about the method for taking back on board a person who was fallen over board.

We have several possibilities to board somebody. 

Halyard of the balooner is for sure strong enough.

Halyard from the top from the spinnaker halyard. Is the fixation on mast with the shakle on the block strong enough to lift up a person in full wet suit with wet boots etc with a weight of about 150 kg?

What about the main mast with the boom? Is the steel wire which holds the boom, strong enough to lift up 150 kg or more?

Last but not least on the mizzen we can use the halyard for the mizzen staysail. Same question: Is the mizzen mast fixation on the top with shakle and block strong enough for lifting up 150 kg or more?

The last possibility is the halyard for the outboard or passerelle with the boom of the mizzen. Is this fixation strong enough to lift up 150 kg or more.


All your answer will be appreciated strongly and I thank you all very much for your ideas and thoughts about the subject which each us hopes it will never happen.

By the way: the AMEL 55 and later have a vang on the boom, which is the method for lifting up a person from the water.


From the RYA there is the recommendation, that casualty should lift up horizontally and for this you need a second halyard or the same one halyard but you need the strength of the double weight.


Many thanks an fair winds,


Philipp 

#124 SM Félicie




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rats!

Mark Erdos
 

Tastes like chicken!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Guadeloupe

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 4:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rats!

 

 

Whoa!!!!  Guinea Pigs are related to rats and mice, and they're part of the food chain in Ecuador?   I'm not that hungry!

 

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rescueing method of casualty (Person Over Board)

James Studdart
 

Can anyone elaborate on why the RYA suggests people are lifted horizontally? I find that hard to believe. The idea of using two lines to lift a casualty out of the water fills me with dread of tangles, loops and over complication. Why double weight? Surely a wet person weighs the same vertical or horizontal.

Cheers,
James
SV SeaBean, SM344
Moorea

On Sat, Mar 31, 2018 at 00:22 Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Phillip,

I believe that the way the Super Maramu was designed, rigged, and equipped, it may be superior to any other sailboat regarding your rescue questions.

The mizzen mast was rigged with 2 each 10mm halyards (1 port and 1 stbd) each capable of lifting at least 1000 pounds. Each can be hauled using the electric main sheet winch. More importantly, there is a block for each at the end of the mizzen boom which will aid in holding the retrieved person off the boat. With the mizzen sheet loose, the end of the  mizzen boom will elevate when the halyard shackle meets the boom block, allowing you to swing the boom and person up and over the rail.

However, all above is based on how the Super Maramu was designed and built and may not be true with a particular Super Maramu owned by a non-caring owner, or a smarter person than Henri Amel.I hope this helps you. If you need more information, please contact me. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Sat, Mar 31, 2018, 05:43 philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear experienced AMEL Yacht Owners,


Does anybody has experience in rescueing a casualty on Super Maramus? I'm instructor for ISAF courses and I'm thinking about the method for taking back on board a person who was fallen over board.

We have several possibilities to board somebody. 

Halyard of the balooner is for sure strong enough.

Halyard from the top from the spinnaker halyard. Is the fixation on mast with the shakle on the block strong enough to lift up a person in full wet suit with wet boots etc with a weight of about 150 kg?

What about the main mast with the boom? Is the steel wire which holds the boom, strong enough to lift up 150 kg or more?

Last but not least on the mizzen we can use the halyard for the mizzen staysail. Same question: Is the mizzen mast fixation on the top with shakle and block strong enough for lifting up 150 kg or more?

The last possibility is the halyard for the outboard or passerelle with the boom of the mizzen. Is this fixation strong enough to lift up 150 kg or more.


All your answer will be appreciated strongly and I thank you all very much for your ideas and thoughts about the subject which each us hopes it will never happen.

By the way: the AMEL 55 and later have a vang on the boom, which is the method for lifting up a person from the water.


From the RYA there is the recommendation, that casualty should lift up horizontally and for this you need a second halyard or the same one halyard but you need the strength of the double weight.


Many thanks an fair winds,


Philipp 

#124 SM Félicie




SM Keel bolts

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

 Hi all,


Does anyone know the diameter of the keel bolt in the grey water bilge in the engine room of an SM ? I am making up the copper strip that bolts on to the aft bolt but I'm not on board and don't know how big to make the hole on the copper strip.


     Ian and Judy,

 Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator pump not working

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Mark
 
On our high pressure pump there are two capacitors.
 
  • One is black 180 microfarad -0-20%, 220VAC, 40-60HZ FACON 70906.1412
  • One is white 70 microfarad +/-5% AC400V B, AC 450V C, 40/085/21 50-60 Hz ICAR Ecofill R-06-49A.
 
Let me  know if I can be of any other help.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 7:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator pump not working

 

Did you come up with the correct size capacitor for your watermaker?  I have a 160 liter per hour version and the capicator is painted obstructing the name plate.  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Mark Mueller
A54 - 68 
Brass Ring
Ft. Lauderdale


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Hurricane season SET UP

eric freedman
 

Hi Alessandro,

I attach about 100 feet of line to the swivel at the top of the foil.

I then rotate the foil until it is covered in line from top to bottom..

The end of the line I attach tightly to the end of the boom.

No noise and no banging.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Hurricane season SET UP

 

 

Hi All,

I'm setting up my GRAND CRU for the Hurricane Season and , of course, I wish to remove all the sails: I'm looking around a SMART IDEA to avoid the furling bumping inside the masts (main and mizzen) when they are without the sails. 

I'd appreciate the all folks  ideas  smarter than me.

Fair winds

Alessandro

GRAND CRU SM #443 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator pump not working

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Did you come up with the correct size capacitor for your watermaker?  I have a 160 liter per hour version and the capicator is painted obstructing the name plate.  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Mark Mueller
A54 - 68 
Brass Ring
Ft. Lauderdale