Date   

Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

greatketch@...
 

Rick,

I can't say I have any magic tricks for Amel communications.  We write to Maude Touillet at sav@...  We try to be polite, and patient, understanding that parts for boats produced two decades ago are not exactly a huge money maker for the yard, and just about everything they do will have a higher priority!

We have initiated contact with them probably a half dozen times, and only had two where some kind of follow up was needed, and once was just a bit of a miscommunication.  In general, Maude has been very responsive, and helpful.

I suspect that getting specialized bits and pieces for a Maramu might be getting a bit more difficult.

Our cruising plans are the head up to Nova Scotia this summer.  For all that cruising plans are worth!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

---In amelyachtowners@..., <reswinemar@...> wrote :

Hi Bill
I frequently see in your posts that you contact Amel for parts
I don’t seem to have much luck contacting them from Nova Scotia
Any advice?
We have a Maramu and experienced the same rudder post leaking.
I’d like to order spares from them.
BTW this is an awesome forum.
Always helpful
Cheers
Rick
 


Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

Rick Swinemar Jazz II Maramu #144
 

Hi Bill
I frequently see in your posts that you contact Amel for parts
I don’t seem to have much luck contacting them from Nova Scotia
Any advice?
We have a Maramu and experienced the same rudder post leaking.
I’d like to order spares from them.
BTW this is an awesome forum.
Always helpful
Cheers
Rick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

John Clark
 

Hi Seckin,
  Mark is right be gentle with it.  The wind sensor assembly is about $1200USD.  I broke the threads on mine but was able to repair it.  The previoys owner told me to take it done and flush it with alcohol and fresh water periodically.  Not sure what his periodicity was because it froze up a month after I bought the boat. 

John
SV Annie SM 37
Sailing to St. Thomas


On Mon, Apr 16, 2018, 9:31 AM Seckin Barlas seckinbar@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks alot for the answers…
I will try it.

If possible, I will take pictures, and publish it here.






On 16 Apr 2018, at 16:27, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Be very careful when removing the old bearing. It is VERY easy to break the fitting causing you to buy the entire arm. Use lots of penetrating oil. It is best not to do this at the top of the mast, bring the entire arm fitting down (it just plugs in to the socket). 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

 

  

Dear Seckin,

 

You obviously need a new bearing part nr: 213-10-038.. Price about 130 $.

 

Best regards,

 

Martin

AMEL 54, Nr. 149 CHIARA

currently Antigua

Von meinem iPad gesendet


Am 16.04.2018 um 14:51 schrieb Seckin Barlas seckinbar@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

  

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

greatketch@...
 

When I was looking at this project, I found this video on "how-to":

My Italian isn't good enough to follow along with the spoken part, but just watching will give you a lot of good tips that will keep you from making a mess of the existing instrument as you get the old bearings out!
 
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

Seckin Barlas
 

Thanks alot for the answers…
I will try it.

If possible, I will take pictures, and publish it here.






On 16 Apr 2018, at 16:27, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Be very careful when removing the old bearing. It is VERY easy to break the fitting causing you to buy the entire arm. Use lots of penetrating oil. It is best not to do this at the top of the mast, bring the entire arm fitting down (it just plugs in to the socket). 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

 

  

Dear Seckin,

 

You obviously need a new bearing part nr: 213-10-038.. Price about 130 $.

 

Best regards,

 

Martin

AMEL 54, Nr. 149 CHIARA

currently Antigua

Von meinem iPad gesendet


Am 16.04.2018 um 14:51 schrieb Seckin Barlas seckinbar@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

  

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

Mark Erdos
 

Be very careful when removing the old bearing. It is VERY easy to break the fitting causing you to buy the entire arm. Use lots of penetrating oil. It is best not to do this at the top of the mast, bring the entire arm fitting down (it just plugs in to the socket).

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

 

 

Dear Seckin,

 

You obviously need a new bearing part nr: 213-10-038. Price about 130 $.

 

Best regards,

 

Martin

AMEL 54, Nr. 149 CHIARA

currently Antigua

Von meinem iPad gesendet


Am 16.04.2018 um 14:51 schrieb Seckin Barlas seckinbar@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] b&g wind speed indicator

luvkante
 

Dear Seckin,

You obviously need a new bearing part nr: 213-10-038. Price about 130 $.

Best regards,

Martin
AMEL 54, Nr. 149 CHIARA
currently Antigua

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 16.04.2018 um 14:51 schrieb Seckin Barlas seckinbar@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76


Re: b&g wind speed indicator

Seckin Barlas
 

Sorry;
I forgot to attach the image…



On 16 Apr 2018, at 15:51, Seckin Barlas <seckinbar@...> wrote:

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76





b&g wind speed indicator

Seckin Barlas
 

Dear All;

Our SM wind speed indicator in not working.
The direction is working but the indicator in the top of the mast is locked and is barely can be moved by hand.
Our boat is year 1992 hull #76.

The insturements are B&G.
In the attached file you can see the display system. (Maybe you need to understand the model number…etc)

How can we fix it?
Do I need to replace the system?
Anyone knows the model number?

Thanks in advance;

Seckin Barlas
S/Y HAYAT SM#76


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

John Clark
 

Hi Eric,
   Welcome.  Am about to sail from Bahamas to USVI so will be brief,  I also have an early SM #37 built in 1989 sold as a 1990.  Would love to compare notes next week.  Good luck with your SM

John Clark
SV Annie. SM 37
Underway to USVI

On Thu, Apr 12, 2018, 1:45 PM eric@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Amel-Owners!


For our bluewater-trip we are planning to install a 2nd forestay on our Super Maramu for strong conditions.


We are looking for recommendations and good solutions!? Where can we install it? Any mount-points? How was this made on your boat?

Our ship is from 1989, Nr. 12


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

Paul Osterberg
 

Danny!
My "old" Genoa is less than 2 years so it still has a few miles left. but I agree with you that a poor 150% can give less performance than a good 100%, have experienced that a few times on previous boats . I will continue with my "old" Genoa cruising North towards Nova Scotia this summer, then decide upon action before heading down to the Caribbean this fall.
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Correction rigging the jordan series drogue

eric freedman
 

-----Original Message-----
From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@optonline.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 4:03 PM
To: 'James Cromie'; 'amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: rigging the jordan series drogue

Hi James,
I had my drogue bridles made with large loops spliced into the bitter ends.
When I had Kimberlite made I had Amel add strong backing under the stern cleats. I rig the drogue attached to these cleats with the loops.
If you did not get yours with loops spliced in, I would call Dave and ask if he will swap out the bridles with you.

After the cleats the bridle runs through the fairleads with leather chafe gear attached and tied in place with a number of zip ties. They then run between the backstays with chafe gear attached where the bridle runs past the backstays..

The boat might set at an angle to the waves, but the bridles cannot be adjusted with rolling hitches.
This is because the bridle start bending the backstays.
I am working on some way to pull the bridles more inboard.
I run the bridles there as I do not want the bridle to take out the SB antenna.
I was thinking of moving the ssb antenna.

Before deploying , I attach the bridles to the cleats and fairleads with chafe gear attached.. I flake out the entire drogue on the aft cabin top and make sure that there is no kink or overlap . I then ask the crew if everything looks ok.
I then drop the chain over the side between the backstays and feed out a few feet of the drogue. It then self deploys. Once the drogue is set , I then attach chafe gear to the bridle at the backstays. From memory my chafe gear is about 20 inches long.

I also fabricated a rounded box that fits over one fairlead. It is made out of wood and bolts through the fairlead. When retrieving the drogue, the fairlead will tear up the parachutes. The drogue wants to get in the fairlead no matter what I do. You only need one as when it is time to bring the drogue on board, you tie a rolling hitch to remove the bridle. You tighten the hitch with a winch and release it from the cleat. Once it is off you walk to the stern and bring the loose bridle over to the working bridle with the rolling hitch line and bring it on board.

The primary winch will bring the drogue on board. However you have to run it for a minute or so then stop and allow the motor to cool for a minute or two. Otherwise, the motor will overheat and the motors thermal overload switch will shut it down. You then will need to wait till the motor STOPS OVERHEATING *** CORRECTION

Bringing the drogue on board is a 3 person job. One to guide the drogue on board. One to tail the winch, and one to press the winch button. Be very careful with the winch's tailing horn. It will tear up the parachutes.

If the boat is rolling port to starboard you can bring the drogue in without using the electric part of the winch. When the boat rolls, hand tighten the drogue on the winch. When the boat rolls back, and you have slack, pull It in again. If the boat is rolling this works very quickly.

Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376


-----Original Message-----
From: James Cromie [mailto:jamescromie@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2018 10:16 PM
To: eric
Subject: rigging the jordan series drogue

Eric - Considering that you have deployed your Jordan drogue a few times on your Amel in heavy weather, I’m interested to know the rigging system that you’ve found to work best.
I’m eager to hear of any tips or advice you might have. I know that one of the biggest causes of failure would be chafe.

Best,
James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

eric freedman
 

Steve,

When you get the new nut from Amel, I would take it to a machine shop with a photo of mine. Make sure you measure the maximum length of the wrench that is needed. If the machine shop takes more than 30 minutes to make the wrench it is too long. It is cut out with a band saw and rounded on a bench grinder. I am not happy with the slip, basin- adjustable wrench for this purpose. I am sure with a properly fitting wrench you will be able to at least make the 1/6 turn and possibly 1/8th.

The basin wrench was not made for the force that is needed, it slips and  mars the nut.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 9:50 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

 

 

Thanks all for the replies. I found that the previous owner left me a slip nut tool and wouldn’t you know it, it was tightened to exactly the width I needed for the packing but. 

I was only able to get a further 1/12th of a turn before I feared I would do more damage than good if I went further. Hopefully this improves things, but also seems to indicate I would do well to contact Maud and get the right parts to repack it. As I could not advance it a full 1/6th, I was unable to screw down the stainless L-plate so hopefully it does not have a propensity for rapidly coming undone. 

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Ft. Lauderdale. 

 


On Apr 15, 2018, at 9:35 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

FYI; Amel sells the tool at a very reasonable cost. We had a custom one made in Turkey for about 100 euros and also bought one from Amel as a backup for less. I don't remember exactly how much.

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad & Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54


On Apr 15, 2018, at 8:17 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We also had a bit of water come in during our first sailing season, up in Canada.  We hoped to get back to Fort Lauderdale in December and have our regular Amel specialist have a look at it.  But the problem worsened on our way S and finally in Georgetown, SC, we felt compelled to let a non-Amel party have a look at it.

The guys a Hazzard Marine were surprised to find a boat with packing on the steering system, but quickly got to work.  It took two very big strong guys, several tools, and a lot of effort over several hours to pull out the old packing, but they put new one (BROWN in color, made of a natural fiber), tightened the nut, and we carried on.  For the first few days, not a drop leaked, but by the time we got home, the leak  was again excessive.

On Eric's (Kimberlite) advice, we ordered new packing from La Rochelle, plus spares, and an extra nut, just in case we ever crack the old one.  Like Eric says, tape it near the quadrant.  Two things: first, the French packing is WHITE, and made out of a synthetic material.  Second, the Amel original is ***metric***, whereas the South Carolina guys put in an Imperial-size equivalent, or whatever it is called... this is why their efforts were good for only a few weeks.

As for the tool, the ideal is to have one custom-made as per Eric's recommendation, but not having access to that, we took the new plastic nut to a tool specialist in Ft. L who sold us a sufficiently flat, adjustable, $75 Ridgid wrench which one is able to rotate under the quadrant to tighten the nut.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, La Maddalena, Sardinia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Thanks all for the replies. I found that the previous owner left me a slip nut tool and wouldn’t you know it, it was tightened to exactly the width I needed for the packing but. 

I was only able to get a further 1/12th of a turn before I feared I would do more damage than good if I went further. Hopefully this improves things, but also seems to indicate I would do well to contact Maud and get the right parts to repack it. As I could not advance it a full 1/6th, I was unable to screw down the stainless L-plate so hopefully it does not have a propensity for rapidly coming undone. 

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Ft. Lauderdale. 


On Apr 15, 2018, at 9:35 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

FYI; Amel sells the tool at a very reasonable cost. We had a custom one made in Turkey for about 100 euros and also bought one from Amel as a backup for less. I don't remember exactly how much.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54

On Apr 15, 2018, at 8:17 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We also had a bit of water come in during our first sailing season, up in Canada.  We hoped to get back to Fort Lauderdale in December and have our regular Amel specialist have a look at it.  But the problem worsened on our way S and finally in Georgetown, SC, we felt compelled to let a non-Amel party have a look at it.

The guys a Hazzard Marine were surprised to find a boat with packing on the steering system, but quickly got to work.  It took two very big strong guys, several tools, and a lot of effort over several hours to pull out the old packing, but they put new one (BROWN in color, made of a natural fiber), tightened the nut, and we carried on.  For the first few days, not a drop leaked, but by the time we got home, the leak  was again excessive.

On Eric's (Kimberlite) advice, we ordered new packing from La Rochelle, plus spares, and an extra nut, just in case we ever crack the old one.  Like Eric says, tape it near the quadrant.  Two things: first, the French packing is WHITE, and made out of a synthetic material.  Second, the Amel original is ***metric***, whereas the South Carolina guys put in an Imperial-size equivalent, or whatever it is called... this is why their efforts were good for only a few weeks.

As for the tool, the ideal is to have one custom-made as per Eric's recommendation, but not having access to that, we took the new plastic nut to a tool specialist in Ft. L who sold us a sufficiently flat, adjustable, $75 Ridgid wrench which one is able to rotate under the quadrant to tighten the nut.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, La Maddalena, Sardinia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

Mohammad Shirloo
 

FYI; Amel sells the tool at a very reasonable cost. We had a custom one made in Turkey for about 100 euros and also bought one from Amel as a backup for less. I don't remember exactly how much.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54

On Apr 15, 2018, at 8:17 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We also had a bit of water come in during our first sailing season, up in Canada.  We hoped to get back to Fort Lauderdale in December and have our regular Amel specialist have a look at it.  But the problem worsened on our way S and finally in Georgetown, SC, we felt compelled to let a non-Amel party have a look at it.

The guys a Hazzard Marine were surprised to find a boat with packing on the steering system, but quickly got to work.  It took two very big strong guys, several tools, and a lot of effort over several hours to pull out the old packing, but they put new one (BROWN in color, made of a natural fiber), tightened the nut, and we carried on.  For the first few days, not a drop leaked, but by the time we got home, the leak  was again excessive.

On Eric's (Kimberlite) advice, we ordered new packing from La Rochelle, plus spares, and an extra nut, just in case we ever crack the old one.  Like Eric says, tape it near the quadrant.  Two things: first, the French packing is WHITE, and made out of a synthetic material.  Second, the Amel original is ***metric***, whereas the South Carolina guys put in an Imperial-size equivalent, or whatever it is called... this is why their efforts were good for only a few weeks.

As for the tool, the ideal is to have one custom-made as per Eric's recommendation, but not having access to that, we took the new plastic nut to a tool specialist in Ft. L who sold us a sufficiently flat, adjustable, $75 Ridgid wrench which one is able to rotate under the quadrant to tighten the nut.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, La Maddalena, Sardinia


Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

greatketch@...
 

Surprised by packing on a rudder shaft???? That's... surprising!  It's certainly not an unusual situation, LOTS of boats have it.  Mixing up imperial and metric sizes are good for lots, and lots of problems.

Guess those guys didn't see too many sailboats... makes me wonder if they actually knew how to cut and fit the packing into the gland... there are an awful lot more wrong ways to do it than right ones.

Pretty much any decent chandlery will have the adjustable packing nut wrench.  A good hardware store will have it in the plumbing section for nuts on sink and toilet drains.  Plumbers call them "slip wrenches."  It is thin enough and short handled enough it does fit on our rudder gland.  I am not usually a fan of adjustable wrenches, but if you have to tighten this nut so tight that becomes an issue, the gland needs repacking.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas


Re: Water coming through below rudder quadrant

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

We also had a bit of water come in during our first sailing season, up in Canada.  We hoped to get back to Fort Lauderdale in December and have our regular Amel specialist have a look at it.  But the problem worsened on our way S and finally in Georgetown, SC, we felt compelled to let a non-Amel party have a look at it.

The guys a Hazzard Marine were surprised to find a boat with packing on the steering system, but quickly got to work.  It took two very big strong guys, several tools, and a lot of effort over several hours to pull out the old packing, but they put new one (BROWN in color, made of a natural fiber), tightened the nut, and we carried on.  For the first few days, not a drop leaked, but by the time we got home, the leak  was again excessive.

On Eric's (Kimberlite) advice, we ordered new packing from La Rochelle, plus spares, and an extra nut, just in case we ever crack the old one.  Like Eric says, tape it near the quadrant.  Two things: first, the French packing is WHITE, and made out of a synthetic material.  Second, the Amel original is ***metric***, whereas the South Carolina guys put in an Imperial-size equivalent, or whatever it is called... this is why their efforts were good for only a few weeks.

As for the tool, the ideal is to have one custom-made as per Eric's recommendation, but not having access to that, we took the new plastic nut to a tool specialist in Ft. L who sold us a sufficiently flat, adjustable, $75 Ridgid wrench which one is able to rotate under the quadrant to tighten the nut.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, La Maddalena, Sardinia


Re: 2nd. Autopilot on AMEL-54

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

We have two separate autopilot computers and two separate autopilot drives.  

Each computer output goes to a rotary switch so you can select if you wish to use the Raytheon T-300 autopilot computer or if you wish to use the B&G AC42 computer.

The output from that switch then goes into an identical rotary switch so you can select if you wish to use the Raymarine rotary drive or the Raymarine linear drive.

Because of the two rotary switches, you can use the B&G autopilot with either the rotary or the linear drive, and you can use the Raytheon autopilot with the rotary or the linear drive as well.

Key to having two separate systems is that each system has its own sensors.  Otherwise, if both systems use the same sensors and they go down... then both computers will be disabled.  So the B&G is on a NMEA 2000 network and has access to the boat's NMEA 2000 heading sensor, wind sensor, GPS, autopilot controls and displays, and its own rudder position sensor.  The Raytheon has access to the NMEA 2000 network data, but in its absence, it can perfectly steer to a magnetic target because it has its own dedicated gyro, compass, rudder sensor, and its own keypad and display, as well as a Raymarine SmartController wireless remote control.  When the NMEA 2000 net is disabled, the Raytheon in our configuration loses the ability to autopilot to a wind angle because we discarded the boat's factory original Raymarine wind sensor.

In the aft quadrant the Amel factory already had the Raymarine rudder sensor occupying one side of the quadrant.  The B&G rudder sensor was installed upside down (reversed) on the other side of the quadrant, and fortunately there is a setting in the software for exactly this situation.


Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350 (2002)
At anchor, La Maddalena, Sardinia


Re: 2nd. Autopilot on AMEL-54

greatketch@...
 

Ruedi,

I can not comment on the specifics of a AMEL54 installation, but I have some general comments for you.  

A backup drive is an excellent idea.  Even the best mechanical stuff has a finite life span, and can fail without warning.  Hand steering for days on end when you have a small crew is not my idea of fun.  Been there--done that--do not need to do it again.

On my old boat I had an Octopus Hydraulic autopilot drive installed that was a backup to a wind vane. When the hydraulic unit was not being used it added NO noticeable load on the steering system.  It would be compatible with any other type of unit.  

Key on the installation of any ram style AP drive is making sure it has a good, solid structure to push against.  In general, it is not a good idea to have a AP drive attached directly to the quadrant that the wheel uses.  In the very unlikely event of a problem with the quadrant, the AP is a backup to the wheel if it is connected to a separate tiller arm.  I do not know how complex such an addition would be to a 54. You'll have three separate steering systems, the wheel, the linear drive and the hydraulic drive. The fewer parts they have in common, the more reliable the whole system will be.

In my experience hydraulic AP drives tend to make a LOT more noise than the linear drive. Mounting the pump remotely (in the engine room?) will help, but you'll still notice a lot more noise. That probably changes when you get to units with continuously running pumps, but that is likely not suitable for a 54. 

Good luck!
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <Rudolf@...> wrote :

Hi everyone (and Amel-54 owners),

Since few month I’m a happy owner of an Amel-54. We plan to go long distance (cross oceans), and I think its a good idea to have a second Autopilot. Our A-54 is from 2007 with one electric Raymarine AP (I think linear drive). 

We plan to add an independent Raymarin autopilot system with hydraulic ram. If you have any experience with two AP and especially similar configurations (one electric one hydraulic), I'd like to know your experience.

I’m very interested to know your layout on the rudder quadrant and how you have installed everything.
If you have any pictures how the "AP-RAM" are installaed, I would love to see. 

Further: Did it worked well, or you had issues with it? 
Was the linear drive still able to turn the rudder with the extra load?
Does it turned out as a wise investment?

Thanks for any advice and kind regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

SY Wasabi 



Sorry Error rigging the jordan series drogue

eric freedman
 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 4:03 PM
To: 'James Cromie'; amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] rigging the jordan series drogue

 

 

Hi James,
I had my drogue bridles made with large loops spliced into the bitter ends.
When I had Kimberlite made I had Amel add strong backing under the stern cleats. I rig the drogue attached to these cleats with the loops.
If you did not get yours with loops spliced in, I would call Dave and ask if he will swap out the bridles with you.

After the cleats the bridle runs through the fairleads with leather chafe gear attached and tied in place with a number of zip ties. They then run between the backstays with chafe gear attached where the bridle runs past the backstays..

The boat might set at an angle to the waves, but the bridles cannot be adjusted with rolling hitches.
This is because the bridle start bending the backstays.
I am working on some way to pull the bridles more inboard.
I run the bridles there as I do not want the bridle to take out the SB antenna.
I was thinking of moving the ssb antenna.

Before deploying , I attach the bridles to the cleats and fairleads with chafe gear attached.. I flake out the entire drogue on the aft cabin top and make sure that there is no kink or overlap . I then ask the crew if everything looks ok.
I then drop the chain over the side between the backstays and feed out a few feet of the drogue. It then self deploys. Once the drogue is set , I then attach chafe gear to the bridle at the backstays. From memory my chafe gear is about 20 inches long.

I also fabricated a rounded box that fits over one fairlead. It is made out of wood and bolts through the
fairlead. When retrieving the drogue, the fairlead will tear up the parachutes. The drogue wants to get in the fairlead no matter what I do. You only need one as when it is time to bring the drogue on board, you tie a rolling hitch to remove the bridle. You tighten the hitch with a winch and release it from the cleat. Once it is off you walk to the stern and bring the loose bridle over to the working bridle with the rolling hitch line and bring it on board.

The primary winch will bring the drogue on board. However you have to run it for a minute or so then stop and allow the motor to cool for a minute or two. Otherwise, the motor will overheat and the motors thermal overload switch will shut it down. You then will need to wait till the motor  cools off  .

Bringing the drogue on board is a 3 person job. One to guide the drogue on board. One to tail the winch, and one to press the winch button. Be very careful with the winch's tailing horn. It will tear up the parachutes.

If the boat is rolling port to starboard you can bring the drogue in without using the electric part of the winch. When the boat rolls, hand tighten the drogue on the winch. When the boat rolls back, and you have slack, pull
it in again. If the boat is rolling this works very quickly.

Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: James Cromie [mailto:jamescromie@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2018 10:16 PM
To: eric
Subject: rigging the jordan series drogue

Eric - Considering that you have deployed your Jordan drogue a few times on your Amel in heavy weather, I’m interested to know the rigging system that you’ve found to work best.
I’m eager to hear of any tips or advice you might have. I know that one of the biggest causes of failure would be chafe.

Best,
James