Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange 24DC leakage

 

Interesting. 

This Amel-made bonding system check device is simple and masterfully accurate. The type of thing the you expect from Amel...very Amelish.

I wonder if what you describe could be caused by the test circuit itself since it is the source of the power to light the bulb, while the "switch" to turn ON the bulb is any existing connection between bonding and the selected post of the 24 volt system at the moment of switch activation. What you describe is a diminishing resistance of that electrical connection, over time.

I'll be interested in what people, who know more than I do, say about this.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 13:08 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


Strange 24DC leakage

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Antal ball bearings

ericmeury@...
 

Not on the boat right now. but does anyone know the size of the ball bearing size of the Antal boom car/traveler.  I need to replace mine.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Ian, That is a good point about adding enough length to hoist a dinghy, and it sounds like an eye in both ends would be good for the shackle. I wonder now if an eye in a 7/16 " halyard would fit through the mast and around the sheave .
Thanks
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:45 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary.

You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour

PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again.

Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end.
The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner


Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello Bill R., Jeff, Eric, Bill K.,

A mechanic came by.  Without my prompting, he did the test of loosening the fuel lines to each cylinder one by one.  With each one, the engine roughened up, then straightened up when tightened again.

He removed the "air filter" (which was oily), cleaned it, and after a few seconds, it was oily again.

He ran the engine fast (in idle) and slow.  He agreed that there is too much smoke and oil in the exhaust.  He removed the oil cap and put his hand on it.  Did the same with the oil dipstick.

Unfortunately he has zero English and my French is less than passable.  I got that he can't take me on, and that he thinks a technical test of compression/pression of something is necessary.  I think he was referring to the fuel pump, but he may have meant the injectors or, less likely, the cylinders.

I'm also pretty sure he said this is not a minor project. 

Anyway, they'll call me later with a translation.

By the way, the engine timing was last checked 125 hours ago.  Valve clearance last checked 88 hours ago.  The cylinder head valves are 125 hours new.  The shaft brake was replaced by Amel two years ago and clears the disc cleanly.  The propeller was thoroughly cleaned by a diver 88 hours ago (43 days).  A diver is coming tomorrow.  The oil on the ZF Hurth was twice flushed 383 hours ago (13 months) and it is crystal clear/no level change.  The oil on the C-Drive is 289 hours old and crystal clear/no level change.

I'll have someone check the transmission oil cooler.  It has not been serviced.  The turbo was removed, thoroughly cleaned, painted (twice) and reinstalled 125 hours ago but I am not sure it was "tested" or what the performance tests are.

Thank you all for your input.  If this guy won't take me, I'll probably be looking for a well respected Yanmar outfit in France or Spain and probably have to park ourselves there for two or three weeks while they drain the oil, I mean, our bank account.

Any other thoughts or recommendations, please do post.  Thanks again.

Peregrinus
Hyères


Re: Ballooner Halyard

Ian Park
 

Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary.

You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour

PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again.

Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end.
The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner


Re: Ballooner Halyard

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas


Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

The previous owner apparently did not use the ballooner much and I have not either. I would like to replace the halyard for the ballooner and was wondering if I should have a eye spliced in one end ? How do you normally make it a continuous line , connecting the ends? Do you use the pin of a  shackle to slide in and out of the groove in the hooker? I have never been on another Amel to see how this is set up and executed . 

Thanks,

Pat SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick

 

Very good point, Jeff.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018, 08:12 JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Check your transmission oil.
You can lose transmission oil thru your transmission oil cooler, as the oil under pressure when running is leaked into the raw water running thru the cooler. The oil will appear as a slight slick as your cooling water is exits. Depending on the size of the hole, sea water can mix with the transmission oil when your engine is off, and the transmission oil is no longer under pressure turning it a bit milky.

Jeff S/V Spirit Amel 54 #14


On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 06:38 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hello,

I'd like your opinion on this engine issue.

When we bought the boat in 2012, about every 30 seconds you could see a drop of oil come out from underwater, on the boat's exhaust.  Like a flower opening, you saw a dot which then became a small circle.  The engine had 2000 hrs.

The engine now has 3,525 hours.  Some people think the white smoke that comes out of it is normal, but I think it is a bit much.  But what worries me is that the oil in the water is not acceptable.  I am pretty sure the other boats don't do this.  Look at the attached photo, taken 5 minutes after the engine was turned off.  Zero oil on the port side, and zero oil around the surrounding boats.

Some stats from the last 58 hours of engine use (from eastern Crete to Hyères, with stops along the way, 1171 miles if we had motored in straight lines, but we obviously sailed most of the way):
 - fuel consumed: 310 liters (includes 6 hours of genset use at 3/4 load)
 - oil added: 1/2 of 1 quart

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.  I've asked for a mechanic to come by to see the 100HP Yanmar.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères


Re: The mistery slick

Duane Siegfri
 

I'll second Jeffrey's suggestion.  It's an inexpensive check to remove the transmission oil cooler, take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and pressure tested.  It's a maintenance item that should be done occasionally anyway.

We had to replace a transmission for this very reason.  The boat was showing oil in the water via the engine exhaust, and we were told it was probably an injector, no rush to repair.  Once a small pinhole develops in a cooling tube inside the cooler, you will lose transmission oil, and seawater will mix with what is returned to the transmission.  Whether your transmission oil is cloudy or not, I would have the cooler tested to eliminate it from the list of possibles.  It's a pretty inexpensive test.  One thing to consider, once the pinhole develops so begins corrosion in the transmission with exposure to seawater.  

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: The mistery slick

Duane Siegfri
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

eric freedman
 

I had a similar problem when I first received Kimberlite in 2002.

For whatever reason Yanmar USA, tracked the problem down to  a defective turbo. I have no further problems since they swapped out the turbo under warrantee,

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 2:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

 

 

Thank you Ian and Bill.

The injector nozzles on all 4 cylinders were replaced with new 125 hours ago, as were the racor filters and the fuel filter.  Today the racor filters and their "bubble" look pristine.

I am pretty sure what we see in the water is fuel.  Since the water here is so clean and still, this afternoon I ran an experiment as suggested by Gary of Adagio: take diesel-absorbing pads and check if they absorb the slick.  They do.

Maybe we are down to low cylinder compression in one or more of them, for whatever reason, or maybe we have a bad injector.

Best,


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

 

Bill and Fernando,

And, low compression could be caused by valves out of adjustment.

Assuming the AutoProp is clean and properly working, I would adjust the valves, then perform a compression test. If compression is within specs, I would have the almost new injectors tested. 

Use the following guide if the above doesn't solve the issue.

Reasons for fuel in the water in order of likelihood:
The engine is overrevved especially under load...this is normal to see diesel in the water.
The AutoProp is fouled or needs new bearings
Valves need adjusting 
Injector nozzels need replacing
Other injector problems
Fuel injection pump creating too much fuel pressure
Shaft brake is not working correctly
Valves are worn and engine needs a topend rebuild. 
The C-Drive or Transmission has something creating a load on the engine.
Something else is creating a load on the engine.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 18:21 greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Actually, ANY reason for low compression in one or more cylinders could be a possible cause of unburned fuel exiting with the exhaust...




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

greatketch@...
 

Actually, ANY reason for low compression in one or more cylinders could be a possible cause of unburned fuel exiting with the exhaust...



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

 

Or, maybe your cylinder head valves need adjusting.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 4:02 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Ian and Bill.

The injector nozzles on all 4 cylinders were replaced with new 125 hours ago, as were the racor filters and the fuel filter.  Today the racor filters and their "bubble" look pristine.

I am pretty sure what we see in the water is fuel.  Since the water here is so clean and still, this afternoon I ran an experiment as suggested by Gary of Adagio: take diesel-absorbing pads and check if they absorb the slick.  They do.

Maybe we are down to low cylinder compression in one or more of them, for whatever reason, or maybe we have a bad injector.

Best,



Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Ian and Bill.

The injector nozzles on all 4 cylinders were replaced with new 125 hours ago, as were the racor filters and the fuel filter.  Today the racor filters and their "bubble" look pristine.

I am pretty sure what we see in the water is fuel.  Since the water here is so clean and still, this afternoon I ran an experiment as suggested by Gary of Adagio: take diesel-absorbing pads and check if they absorb the slick.  They do.

Maybe we are down to low cylinder compression in one or more of them, for whatever reason, or maybe we have a bad injector.

Best,


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oman Generator

James Studdart
 

Hi,
I suppose it could be the timed circuit breaker in the shore/gen change over box is not it working well/on its way out. I’m not sure how those components fail, but if the timing is consistent (but lengthening) then that would be my first suspicion.

Cheers,
James.
SeaBean SM344
Raiatea, FP

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 06:04 Heinz Stutenbäumer heinz@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill

Thank you for your reply.

My green lamp works very well.

Even with a measuring device at the socket I cannot determine that 220V are produced in the first 5 minutes. Or is it the case that if the green lamp is not lit, the power is not transmitted.

This would mean it works if I remove the green lamp?

 

Fair winds Heinz

SM 2000 292 Quetzal

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Gesendet: Montag, 23. April 2018 10:19
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oman Generator

 

 

It is very common for this light to fail. In fact I believe it would be unusual to find an original green AC light working on a SM. The light has a life of about 6-8 years. 

 

Rather than replacing the bulb, you should add a digital Volt/Amp/Hertz meter. This meter will ensure shore power delivery and help you to NOT overload shore power, or the generator.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 11:30 'Stutenbaeumer.Berlin' heinz@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello all

I have an onan generator on my SM 2000 that also works very well.
Since a few weeks I have the problem that the display for 220 V only lights up after the generator has been running for 5 to 10 minutes.
I have the feeling that this period of time is getting longer and longer.
Does anyone know this problem and does anyone know an answer?
I'd be grateful for any clues.

Fair Winds
Heinz Stutenbäumer,SM2000, 292, SV QUETZAL