Date   
Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hello everyone in the Group


I have a Furuno AIS Receiver (passive) and I'd like to upgrade to a Transceiver (active). Now since I plan to go to Raymarine Electronics sometimes in the Future (Radar/Chartplotter etc.), I asked Reymarine for such a new active AIS box (I would have one part Raymarine already by then).

 

Now the Raymarine engineer came on board and said that the Raymarine AIS will not be compatible with my Furuno Chart plotter even if both are talking NMEA2000. I was surprised about this comment and I'm confused now weather this guy will only sell other new Raymarine components or is it real!?


When I insisted he said; YES that Raymarine AIS also talks NMEA2000 but still then it will not work correctly. His English was not perfect like mine, but I understood that this is Reymarine politics (they just don't want to have this configuration running). I have Furuno NAVnet vx2 on my AMEL-54 (2007).


Who else in the group experienced the same or does know if this is correct or wrong statement from Reymarine. If this is product politics I'm rather not going to Reymarine in the future.... ;-) 


Thanks for advice

Ruedi 

SY WASABI A54 #55



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

James Alton
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: Sealant for dodger windows?

Ian Park
 

You could try fitting the windows and then stick masking tape round the edges on the front. Then if the sealant does squeeze out it will peel off on the masking tape.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

Patrick McAneny
 

Ryan, Why don't you position the window then apply tape around the window so that any sealant that squeezes out will not get onto the window.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:15 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

 
Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hi Thomas and Bill,
I had the same problem,  measured the current over the indicatorlight,  disconnected all wires (negativ and positiv) of all equipment in contact with salt/waterpumps. I could not find the fault and had to leave the boat for several weeks. When I returned the test worked fine  - no Indikator light. This was 18 months ago-still no problems.
After this I check it daily, sign o.k.in the logbook. Minimum test before and after any work at the electric System.
Once I had a light on the tester,  when I made a HDMI connection between the TV and the Furuno Navnet.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162


Sealant for dodger windows?

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange 24DC leakage

 

Interesting. 

This Amel-made bonding system check device is simple and masterfully accurate. The type of thing the you expect from Amel...very Amelish.

I wonder if what you describe could be caused by the test circuit itself since it is the source of the power to light the bulb, while the "switch" to turn ON the bulb is any existing connection between bonding and the selected post of the 24 volt system at the moment of switch activation. What you describe is a diminishing resistance of that electrical connection, over time.

I'll be interested in what people, who know more than I do, say about this.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 13:08 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI

Strange 24DC leakage

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Antal ball bearings

ericmeury@...
 

Not on the boat right now. but does anyone know the size of the ball bearing size of the Antal boom car/traveler.  I need to replace mine.

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Ian, That is a good point about adding enough length to hoist a dinghy, and it sounds like an eye in both ends would be good for the shackle. I wonder now if an eye in a 7/16 " halyard would fit through the mast and around the sheave .
Thanks
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:45 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary.

You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour

PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again.

Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end.
The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner

Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello Bill R., Jeff, Eric, Bill K.,

A mechanic came by.  Without my prompting, he did the test of loosening the fuel lines to each cylinder one by one.  With each one, the engine roughened up, then straightened up when tightened again.

He removed the "air filter" (which was oily), cleaned it, and after a few seconds, it was oily again.

He ran the engine fast (in idle) and slow.  He agreed that there is too much smoke and oil in the exhaust.  He removed the oil cap and put his hand on it.  Did the same with the oil dipstick.

Unfortunately he has zero English and my French is less than passable.  I got that he can't take me on, and that he thinks a technical test of compression/pression of something is necessary.  I think he was referring to the fuel pump, but he may have meant the injectors or, less likely, the cylinders.

I'm also pretty sure he said this is not a minor project. 

Anyway, they'll call me later with a translation.

By the way, the engine timing was last checked 125 hours ago.  Valve clearance last checked 88 hours ago.  The cylinder head valves are 125 hours new.  The shaft brake was replaced by Amel two years ago and clears the disc cleanly.  The propeller was thoroughly cleaned by a diver 88 hours ago (43 days).  A diver is coming tomorrow.  The oil on the ZF Hurth was twice flushed 383 hours ago (13 months) and it is crystal clear/no level change.  The oil on the C-Drive is 289 hours old and crystal clear/no level change.

I'll have someone check the transmission oil cooler.  It has not been serviced.  The turbo was removed, thoroughly cleaned, painted (twice) and reinstalled 125 hours ago but I am not sure it was "tested" or what the performance tests are.

Thank you all for your input.  If this guy won't take me, I'll probably be looking for a well respected Yanmar outfit in France or Spain and probably have to park ourselves there for two or three weeks while they drain the oil, I mean, our bank account.

Any other thoughts or recommendations, please do post.  Thanks again.

Peregrinus
Hyères

Re: Ballooner Halyard

Ian Park
 

Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary.

You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour

PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again.

Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end.
The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner

Re: Ballooner Halyard

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

The previous owner apparently did not use the ballooner much and I have not either. I would like to replace the halyard for the ballooner and was wondering if I should have a eye spliced in one end ? How do you normally make it a continuous line , connecting the ends? Do you use the pin of a  shackle to slide in and out of the groove in the hooker? I have never been on another Amel to see how this is set up and executed . 

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick

 

Very good point, Jeff.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018, 08:12 JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Check your transmission oil.
You can lose transmission oil thru your transmission oil cooler, as the oil under pressure when running is leaked into the raw water running thru the cooler. The oil will appear as a slight slick as your cooling water is exits. Depending on the size of the hole, sea water can mix with the transmission oil when your engine is off, and the transmission oil is no longer under pressure turning it a bit milky.

Jeff S/V Spirit Amel 54 #14


On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 06:38 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hello,

I'd like your opinion on this engine issue.

When we bought the boat in 2012, about every 30 seconds you could see a drop of oil come out from underwater, on the boat's exhaust.  Like a flower opening, you saw a dot which then became a small circle.  The engine had 2000 hrs.

The engine now has 3,525 hours.  Some people think the white smoke that comes out of it is normal, but I think it is a bit much.  But what worries me is that the oil in the water is not acceptable.  I am pretty sure the other boats don't do this.  Look at the attached photo, taken 5 minutes after the engine was turned off.  Zero oil on the port side, and zero oil around the surrounding boats.

Some stats from the last 58 hours of engine use (from eastern Crete to Hyères, with stops along the way, 1171 miles if we had motored in straight lines, but we obviously sailed most of the way):
 - fuel consumed: 310 liters (includes 6 hours of genset use at 3/4 load)
 - oil added: 1/2 of 1 quart

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.  I've asked for a mechanic to come by to see the 100HP Yanmar.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères

Re: The mistery slick

Duane Siegfri
 

I'll second Jeffrey's suggestion.  It's an inexpensive check to remove the transmission oil cooler, take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and pressure tested.  It's a maintenance item that should be done occasionally anyway.

We had to replace a transmission for this very reason.  The boat was showing oil in the water via the engine exhaust, and we were told it was probably an injector, no rush to repair.  Once a small pinhole develops in a cooling tube inside the cooler, you will lose transmission oil, and seawater will mix with what is returned to the transmission.  Whether your transmission oil is cloudy or not, I would have the cooler tested to eliminate it from the list of possibles.  It's a pretty inexpensive test.  One thing to consider, once the pinhole develops so begins corrosion in the transmission with exposure to seawater.  

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: The mistery slick

Duane Siegfri
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The mistery slick

JEFFREY KRAUS