Date   
Re: Strange 24DC leakage

rossirossix4
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

ofer magen
 

Hi to all. 
I have this fenomena too. 
I traced it to the forward sail locker. There is always a lot of humidity there. Last time I was on the boat I dried all the electrical parts and sprayed it with corrosion x and greas. 
Light went off. 
I hope it will stay like this for a while... 

I hope it helps, 

Ofer Magen
Alba Amel54 160
Cyprus 

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

luvkante
 

Same with me! Happens SOMETIMES, never found the reason.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

James Alton
 

Ryan,

   Well I have used mineral spirits/paint thinner (for oil based paints,  not urethanes)  on Acrylics for 40 years on countless boats without any obvious negative effects but that is the only testing that I have done.  I always tape to keep the worst of the caulking off.  Scrap the bulk of the material off with something soft like the soft plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and then finish cleaning with rags and the paint thinner.  Also, if you only clean up a small area at a time, your caulking will be easier to remove.  Once you disturb the bead and spread it out thin, it cures much more quickly.

   Bill R. is definitely right that if you use a lower strength silicone that the future removal will be much easier.  My reasons for using the 3145 is because the caulking can last the life of the new plexiglass without leakage and I would rather fight with the removal aspect at the end than to deal with leaks and having to redo the caulking.  There seems to always be a piper to pay!  (grin)  The 3145 btw  is also non corrosive so the stainless screws fair a bit better than if you use the more common silicones with the acetic acid in them.  I think that there are other non corrosive silicones with a lower strength than the 3145 out there but don’t know of any that are clear or white off hand.  Perhaps others can help. 

Best of luck with your project.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 
  

On Apr 25, 2018, at 6:07 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

Porter McRoberts
 

Bill 

This looks excellent. 
Our 100amp Charger seems to be on the blink. 
Could this be a reasonable replacement?  
Seems so. 

Did you end up getting one?  

How was the install? I used victron for our solar and it is simply amazing. Cool with the Bluetooth dongle. 

Many thanks
 Porter
S/V Ibis 54-152




Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Apr 11, 2018, at 3:16 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Has anybody evaluated (or installed) the Victron auto isolation transfomer?

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Isolation-Transformers-EN.pdf


I hadn't seriously looked at an isolation transformer for our Amel SM before, mostly because when I last looked at them the prices and complexity to allow multivoltage input put me off.  Since we don't spend much time plugged into marinas, I hadn't put it as a high priority.


The Victron looks like it was designed for an AMEL...  It can take EITHER 110V/32amp or 220V/16 amp input, selecting between them automatically, and produce 220V/16amp output (or 110V if you wanted..), and all for less than US$1000...  That, and the entire installation and operation manual is only 10 pages long.


Certainly the specs look great, and having a real isolation transformer is a plus over a galvanic isolator. And having wiring on the boat working exactly as designed even when plugged into 110V is a extra benefit.


It almost sounds like one of those "too good to be true" things, but Victron stuff has been top shelf in my experience so far...


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

 

Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

smiles bernard
 

I never do any silicone work anymore without these


They make every job a pleasure and leave a professional clean job that can be prone to make you feel smug. 

Miles


On 25 Apr 2018, at 20:40, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

Ryan Meador
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hello everyone in the Group


I have a Furuno AIS Receiver (passive) and I'd like to upgrade to a Transceiver (active). Now since I plan to go to Raymarine Electronics sometimes in the Future (Radar/Chartplotter etc.), I asked Reymarine for such a new active AIS box (I would have one part Raymarine already by then).

 

Now the Raymarine engineer came on board and said that the Raymarine AIS will not be compatible with my Furuno Chart plotter even if both are talking NMEA2000. I was surprised about this comment and I'm confused now weather this guy will only sell other new Raymarine components or is it real!?


When I insisted he said; YES that Raymarine AIS also talks NMEA2000 but still then it will not work correctly. His English was not perfect like mine, but I understood that this is Reymarine politics (they just don't want to have this configuration running). I have Furuno NAVnet vx2 on my AMEL-54 (2007).


Who else in the group experienced the same or does know if this is correct or wrong statement from Reymarine. If this is product politics I'm rather not going to Reymarine in the future.... ;-) 


Thanks for advice

Ruedi 

SY WASABI A54 #55



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

James Alton
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: Sealant for dodger windows?

Ian Park
 

You could try fitting the windows and then stick masking tape round the edges on the front. Then if the sealant does squeeze out it will peel off on the masking tape.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

Patrick McAneny
 

Ryan, Why don't you position the window then apply tape around the window so that any sealant that squeezes out will not get onto the window.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:15 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

 
Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hi Thomas and Bill,
I had the same problem,  measured the current over the indicatorlight,  disconnected all wires (negativ and positiv) of all equipment in contact with salt/waterpumps. I could not find the fault and had to leave the boat for several weeks. When I returned the test worked fine  - no Indikator light. This was 18 months ago-still no problems.
After this I check it daily, sign o.k.in the logbook. Minimum test before and after any work at the electric System.
Once I had a light on the tester,  when I made a HDMI connection between the TV and the Furuno Navnet.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162


Sealant for dodger windows?

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange 24DC leakage

 

Interesting. 

This Amel-made bonding system check device is simple and masterfully accurate. The type of thing the you expect from Amel...very Amelish.

I wonder if what you describe could be caused by the test circuit itself since it is the source of the power to light the bulb, while the "switch" to turn ON the bulb is any existing connection between bonding and the selected post of the 24 volt system at the moment of switch activation. What you describe is a diminishing resistance of that electrical connection, over time.

I'll be interested in what people, who know more than I do, say about this.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 13:08 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI

Strange 24DC leakage

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi everyone, 

Our DC leakage detector is showing a leak on the negative. I investigated any AC charger + DC USB potential issue as mentioned previously on the group and didn't find any culprit. 

However, it highlighted this strange fact: when I push the switch up to test for bad connection between negative and grounding, the light comes on and slowly goes off in about 3 seconds. If I test again, it doesn't come on. I need to wait for 10 , 15 minutes for it to 'recharge'. It looks like a capacitor discharging. 

Has anybody experienced this before? Does it give a clue to what could be the source of the leak?

Otherwise I'll start the usual investigation disconnecting everything from the batteries end.

Thanks in advance,

Fair winds 

Thomas

S\V GARULFO
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Antal ball bearings

ericmeury@...
 

Not on the boat right now. but does anyone know the size of the ball bearing size of the Antal boom car/traveler.  I need to replace mine.

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Patrick McAneny
 

Ian, That is a good point about adding enough length to hoist a dinghy, and it sounds like an eye in both ends would be good for the shackle. I wonder now if an eye in a 7/16 " halyard would fit through the mast and around the sheave .
Thanks
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:45 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat
I have a captive shackle on both ends. That’s how it was when I got the boat, although I have seen it in the recent pass that you only need the shackle on on end. The shackle retaining pin should fit neatly into the groove in the ballooner mouse and the other end also attaches to the same shackle, so that once the mouse clicks in (it needs a positive jerk to locate and lock it in - if you don’t the ballooner just finds its way back to the deck!) you can pull the shackle out of the groove and retrieve the halliard leaving the ballooner is free to furl if necessary.

You may want to use that halliard to hoist a dinghy on to the foredeck. If so you might want to make it long enough to hook on to the dinghy, go once round the larger mast winch and tail onto the rope drum of the windlass. This lets me manhandle the dinghy while Linda operates the windlass. It’s easier than winding it in by hand with the mast winch.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96 Jolly Harbour

PS if anyone needs to know, the water is back on in the dock and the quality is fine again.

Both ends though require a loop. I’ve just replaced mine and sewn and whipped a loop in each end.
The halliard is not under any great stress while hoisting and retrieving the ballooner