Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

greatketch@...
 

I have no trouble with that on my boat.  

It's the same with the main sail halyard.  It needs a spliced loop on the down side to hook on the locking car. The only place it tends to hang up a little bit when hoisting the sail is right when the spliced eye is coming out of the cut out in the mast.  Just a bit of wiggling, and it puts right through.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

John Clark
 

Porter. (and Bill)  forgive me if I am jumping in at the wrong point.  

Porter the transformer is for regulating shore power onto the boat.  It gives one the option to use different voltage inputs on the SP cable and get 220/230v supplied to the boat's AC distribution panel. Charging the battery is a different matter.

 Porter, I installed the MagnaSine  4124 inverter-charger over Christmas (2017) and have had good experience with it so far.  I corresponded a lot with Bill Kinney during the installation trying to make sure I did not foul up the Amel bonding set up.  I think we worked through it OK.  The unit is wired between the auto transfer switch (the one that selects the generator or shore power for AC) and acts as a charger if AC is present upstream (from SP or the genset,) or as an inverter if there is no other source of AC.  I set it up to be the "whole house" inverter so it supplies the main AC distribution panel.   We routinely run the microwave, vacuum, food processor...etc from the battery.    I paid about $1900 USD  for the unit plus the remote control unit, which you will need.

As a charger it supplies 63 amps to the battery at the start and ramps down as the battery voltage comes up.  It is programmable so you can set it to which ever battery type you have.   We have AGMs and it does the absorb phase at 28.6V then floats at 26.5V  We run in it in parallel with a 40A charger to speed things along at the start. 

I installed the unit in the engine room forward port side.  It has internal cooling fans, and internal temperature sensors to shut it down if it gets too hot. It seems to be happy there so far.  

If you have a charger that is becoming unreliable  I definitely recommend getting a new charger  while you are near good shipping points.  We now have three chargers, in addition to the solar, engine alternator, and shaft alternator.  Can't have too much.

   See you soon,  John and Colleen

SV Annie  SM 37
St Thomas, USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

greatketch@...
 

Porter,

We haven't pulled the trigger on the transformer yet, as long as we are not connected to shore power, it isn't really a priority. 

I am a little confused by your question however, this is not a battery charger, and would not be a replacement for one..

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <portermcroberts@...> wrote :

Bill 

This looks excellent. 
Our 100amp Charger seems to be on the blink. 
Could this be a reasonable replacement?  
Seems so. 

Did you end up getting one?  

How was the install? I used victron for our solar and it is simply amazing. Cool with the Bluetooth dongle. 

Many thanks
 Porter
S/V Ibis 54-152

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

Ryan Meador
 

I see Permatex makes a clear RTV silicone, I think I'll go with that one.  I like the idea of it being easily removable.  If it fails, it will be an easy job to replace.  I'm not concerned about the color (even though this one is clear) because I've painted the edges of the new dodger glass just like the original, so the sealant will be out of sight.

Thanks for the advice!

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:25 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

All,

I did some research on using Mineral Spirits and Paint thinner on Plexiglass to see if my past experience in working with these materials seemed to be accurate.  I found that there seems to consensus that 100% Mineral Spirits is considered safe for Plexiglass.  While  “Paint Thinner” (for oil based paints) tends to be mostly Mineral Spirits it can apparently also contain a mixture of other solvents,  some of which  could be harmful to Plexiglass.  So I want to correct my statement that Paint Thinner is safe for use on Plexiglass, even though I have used various brands of solvent labelled “Paint Thinner” for decades without any problems.   It is possible that I might have just been lucky in selecting Paint Thinner brands that were safe and I sure don’t want an Amel owner to find one that isn’t based on something that I posted.    

In my research, I also found that apparently Isopropyl alcohol is often used to clean silicone from aircraft canopies and is apparently considered safe but I have not used it myself so don’t know how well it works for this application.

Best,

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220


On Apr 26, 2018, at 2:33 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Ryan,


   Well I have used mineral spirits/paint thinner (for oil based paints,  not urethanes)  on Acrylics for 40 years on countless boats without any obvious negative effects but that is the only testing that I have done.  I always tape to keep the worst of the caulking off.  Scrap the bulk of the material off with something soft like the soft plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and then finish cleaning with rags and the paint thinner.  Also, if you only clean up a small area at a time, your caulking will be easier to remove.  Once you disturb the bead and spread it out thin, it cures much more quickly.

   Bill R. is definitely right that if you use a lower strength silicone that the future removal will be much easier.  My reasons for using the 3145 is because the caulking can last the life of the new plexiglass without leakage and I would rather fight with the removal aspect at the end than to deal with leaks and having to redo the caulking.  There seems to always be a piper to pay!  (grin)  The 3145 btw  is also non corrosive so the stainless screws fair a bit better than if you use the more common silicones with the acetic acid in them.  I think that there are other non corrosive silicones with a lower strength than the 3145 out there but don’t know of any that are clear or white off hand.  Perhaps others can help. 

Best of luck with your project.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 
  
On Apr 25, 2018, at 6:07 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine..  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes.... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wind or Water generator

John Clark
 

Hi Ian,
   sorry I am a little late in responding.  We have been underway and with patchy internet.  We have the fixed prop(autoprop as a spare, set up preferred by previous owner which I have not felt compelled to change) and will generate useful power starting between 4-5kts.  At hull speed, say 7.5-9.0 kts the alternator produces more power than we can use.  The regulator is set to 27.5 volts and will float the batteries at that voltage.

I don't have an ammeter on the alternator output, but If the battery needs charge the highest I have seen gling in is 15 amps.  This of course would be in addition to running loads which vary.   We have one bench freezer, the galley frig and a portable 24V chest frig.  Underway we have a Raymarine Es78 chart plotter, Furuno 1623 radar, VHF and AIS running at all times.   Oh and the Igloo Ice Maker!  

              Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas  USVI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvos.......

karkauai
 

Hi Ian,
Do you have an AutoProp?  My understanding is that they are ver persnickety about growth.  I'd take PenAzen out for another trial and if all is OK, I'd probably opt for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I understand there is a wire mesh filter in the tank at the outflow.  I don't know how to get to it, but if it is clogged you may have a fuel starvation there, which could be intermittent as fuel sloshes around.  Do you have a pressure gauge in the supply line?  Kristy has a dual racor setup with a gauge.  If there is a blockage in supply line it should read negative pressure.

Not a mechanic, but that's the first two things that come to mind.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243
Heading for St Michaels, MD for the Summer.

On Apr 26, 2018, at 12:13 PM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,


I thought this subject had been reviewed so many times that there was nothing else to know. However.....


Last year our 78hp Volvo was partially rebuilt by the Volvo agent in Hyeres. Not a happy experience, but we did end up with an engine performing as it should. With a clean bottom and prop  the rev counter went up to 2800 with a top speed in calm water of about 8.4k, much the same as when the boat was launched 18 years ago. We are pretty rigorous about opening the throttle to max every 12 hours or so.


We put about 290 hours on the engine and then left the boat ashore till this month. I changed the oil and fuel filters. We have twin Racors before fuel reaches the engine.


Having launched, with a spotless bottom and Autoprop, we  motored for about 12 hours at no more than 1900 revs.

Performance was perfect- up to 7.1k at 1800.    I then opened the throttle but with the lever full ahead the revs would not exceed 2100.  At 2000 revs we do 7.3k and at 2100 7.7k, what I would expect. But nothing above 2100.


More than that, on four occasions when I have tried full throttle the revs have fallen back  suddenly to about 1500, on one occasion stopping the engine.


I should mention that the refit included a new turbo , injectors and exhaust elbow and the fuel pump was sent off to Bosch who confirmed that it was fine


Diving on the prop shows that it is still spotless.


My thoughts are that there must be a fuel shortage when I open the throttle; that there is sufficient flow up to 2100  for the engine to perform correctly but above that there is fuel starvation.  I have changed both the engine and the Racor filters again, in case some fuel bug had grown over the winter and blocked them. The ones I took off were spotless and the fuel they contained was also spotless.


Anyone got any thoughts ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece


My thoug

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Jeff.

Will have the transmission cooler tested.

Regards,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvos.......

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi,

I had a similar  problem on my Amel 54 with Volvo 110hp turbo. Thought it was the turbo but it turned out to be the sensor  which measures turbo boost pressure. It is located on starboard side on the Volvo and 5 minute job to change but expensive part 350 euros. Problem solved. I had to get a Volvo technician to diagnose the fault with his computer though as I was unable to diagnose the problem.

Do you have an EVC  computer thing giving boost pressure? If that is stuck the EVC will limit the rpm. Sometimes these modern engines can be too clever! You could also check the turbo is sucking and the little arm goes back and forward. If it is stuck just work it with some WD40. If the boost pressure does not come up then I think it is the sensor.
Can you get 2800 in neutral? When I had my problem i could get 2800 in neutral but not under load.


Nick

On 26 Apr 2018, at 17:13, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi All,

I thought this subject had been reviewed so many times that there was nothing else to know. However.....

Last year our 78hp Volvo was partially rebuilt by the Volvo agent in Hyeres. Not a happy experience, but we did end up with an engine performing as it should. With a clean bottom and prop  the rev counter went up to 2800 with a top speed in calm water of about 8.4k, much the same as when the boat was launched 18 years ago. We are pretty rigorous about opening the throttle to max every 12 hours or so.

We put about 290 hours on the engine and then left the boat ashore till this month. I changed the oil and fuel filters. We have twin Racors before fuel reaches the engine.

Having launched, with a spotless bottom and Autoprop, we  motored for about 12 hours at no more than 1900 revs.
Performance was perfect- up to 7.1k at 1800.    I then opened the throttle but with the lever full ahead the revs would not exceed 2100.  At 2000 revs we do 7.3k and at 2100 7.7k, what I would expect. But nothing above 2100.

More than that, on four occasions when I have tried full throttle the revs have fallen back  suddenly to about 1500, on one occasion stopping the engine.

I should mention that the refit included a new turbo , injectors and exhaust elbow and the fuel pump was sent off to Bosch who confirmed that it was fine

Diving on the prop shows that it is still spotless.

My thoughts are that there must be a fuel shortage when I open the throttle; that there is sufficient flow up to 2100  for the engine to perform correctly but above that there is fuel starvation.  I have changed both the engine and the Racor filters again, in case some fuel bug had grown over the winter and blocked them. The ones I took off were spotless and the fuel they contained was also spotless.

Anyone got any thoughts ?

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece

My thoug


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi,

I suggest you get an injector puller. Not sure on your set up but if the injectors do not thread in but are clamped in then the puller is a rod of steel with a nut welded to one end that threads onto the injector. The rod has a weight on it that slides up and down the rod with a stop welded to the top. The idea is that you thread this device on and whack up the weight to the end stop and pull the injector. This will make sure the injector is not damaged when you pull .it. Armed with the puller easy peasy to pull an injector. Just make sure everything is clean and put the injector directly into a ziplock, one for each injector.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness!

Nick 
Amelia Amel 54

On 26 Apr 2018, at 14:56, thomas.kleman <no_reply@...> wrote:


Hello Amelians- Would love to get advice, so please indulge me. Situation: I'm in Martinique, three weeks from heading to Bonaire for hurricane season.........then Aruba, Columbia, Panama, and through the canal......i.e. about to head away from the island chain and abundant technical support.


Through owning L'ORIENT (SM2K #422) for 8 years (and being cheap), I've become fairly technically competent with the boat and haven't paid for a technician in years.........and owe a lot to the posts I've read here for that. While not every repair has been smooth I've found the answer is always in this site. In maintaining the boat, I try to balance opposing cliches......."don't fix it if it isn't broken"........and "you can't be afraid of your boat".


So, the other day I decide to test the engine and attempt to get the revs up while motoring...........can't get above 1900 RPM. No big deal........it must be a dirty prop, like always..........so I dive on the prop and find some peach fuzz and a few smalll barnacles but not enough (in my estimation) to cause the loss of revs (this has happened to me before quite often when I lived at Miami Beach Marina for 2 years).


So after cleaning the prop I test the boat again and am able to achieve 2800 RPMs without vibration or problem (a bit of additional exhaust smell maybe but I think that was wind direction). This still leaves me uncomfortable since I feel like there should have been more fouling on the prop.


I have in my spares 4 new fuel injectors, guides, fuel line, etc........everything I need to change the injectors; however this is a project I've never done before. I'm normally decisive in this situation but don't really have a direction figured out yet. So, what now ?


1) do nothing......engine has only 2600 hours and t hings seem OK now. Also, it might not even be the injectors !!!

2) pay a guy to change the injectors and test the engine (hate this option)

3) change the injectors myself (my uncle, the former chief mechanic for a major US city thinks I'm a wimp to even consider paying someone else.........says he could do this in an hour while drinking 3 Buds).


My hesistancy to reflexively go to the "do nothing" option is that if the problem re-emerges in someplace less saturated with potential help I will wish I had dealt with it now.


Thoughts ?





Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi All,


I thought this subject had been reviewed so many times that there was nothing else to know. However.....


Last year our 78hp Volvo was partially rebuilt by the Volvo agent in Hyeres. Not a happy experience, but we did end up with an engine performing as it should. With a clean bottom and prop  the rev counter went up to 2800 with a top speed in calm water of about 8.4k, much the same as when the boat was launched 18 years ago. We are pretty rigorous about opening the throttle to max every 12 hours or so.


We put about 290 hours on the engine and then left the boat ashore till this month. I changed the oil and fuel filters. We have twin Racors before fuel reaches the engine.


Having launched, with a spotless bottom and Autoprop, we  motored for about 12 hours at no more than 1900 revs.

Performance was perfect- up to 7.1k at 1800.    I then opened the throttle but with the lever full ahead the revs would not exceed 2100.  At 2000 revs we do 7.3k and at 2100 7.7k, what I would expect. But nothing above 2100.


More than that, on four occasions when I have tried full throttle the revs have fallen back  suddenly to about 1500, on one occasion stopping the engine.


I should mention that the refit included a new turbo , injectors and exhaust elbow and the fuel pump was sent off to Bosch who confirmed that it was fine


Diving on the prop shows that it is still spotless.


My thoughts are that there must be a fuel shortage when I open the throttle; that there is sufficient flow up to 2100  for the engine to perform correctly but above that there is fuel starvation.  I have changed both the engine and the Racor filters again, in case some fuel bug had grown over the winter and blocked them. The ones I took off were spotless and the fuel they contained was also spotless.


Anyone got any thoughts ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece


My thoug

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

James Alton
 

All,

I did some research on using Mineral Spirits and Paint thinner on Plexiglass to see if my past experience in working with these materials seemed to be accurate.  I found that there seems to consensus that 100% Mineral Spirits is considered safe for Plexiglass.  While  “Paint Thinner” (for oil based paints) tends to be mostly Mineral Spirits it can apparently also contain a mixture of other solvents,  some of which  could be harmful to Plexiglass.  So I want to correct my statement that Paint Thinner is safe for use on Plexiglass, even though I have used various brands of solvent labelled “Paint Thinner” for decades without any problems.   It is possible that I might have just been lucky in selecting Paint Thinner brands that were safe and I sure don’t want an Amel owner to find one that isn’t based on something that I posted.    

In my research, I also found that apparently Isopropyl alcohol is often used to clean silicone from aircraft canopies and is apparently considered safe but I have not used it myself so don’t know how well it works for this application.

Best,

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220


On Apr 26, 2018, at 2:33 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Ryan,


   Well I have used mineral spirits/paint thinner (for oil based paints,  not urethanes)  on Acrylics for 40 years on countless boats without any obvious negative effects but that is the only testing that I have done.  I always tape to keep the worst of the caulking off.  Scrap the bulk of the material off with something soft like the soft plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and then finish cleaning with rags and the paint thinner.  Also, if you only clean up a small area at a time, your caulking will be easier to remove.  Once you disturb the bead and spread it out thin, it cures much more quickly.

   Bill R. is definitely right that if you use a lower strength silicone that the future removal will be much easier.  My reasons for using the 3145 is because the caulking can last the life of the new plexiglass without leakage and I would rather fight with the removal aspect at the end than to deal with leaks and having to redo the caulking.  There seems to always be a piper to pay!  (grin)  The 3145 btw  is also non corrosive so the stainless screws fair a bit better than if you use the more common silicones with the acetic acid in them.  I think that there are other non corrosive silicones with a lower strength than the 3145 out there but don’t know of any that are clear or white off hand.  Perhaps others can help. 

Best of luck with your project.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 
  
On Apr 25, 2018, at 6:07 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes.... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
 

All- last week Alban (Amel Martinique) made me this halliard which I installed. It's 50 meters and I'm happy to send photos of both ends of the halliard if anyone cares to see it........"lorient422@..."

Tom Kleman
SV L'ORIENT

Low Revs.........

thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Amelians- Would love to get advice, so please indulge me. Situation: I'm in Martinique, three weeks from heading to Bonaire for hurricane season.........then Aruba, Columbia, Panama, and through the canal......i.e. about to head away from the island chain and abundant technical support.


Through owning L'ORIENT (SM2K #422) for 8 years (and being cheap), I've become fairly technically competent with the boat and haven't paid for a technician in years.........and owe a lot to the posts I've read here for that. While not every repair has been smooth I've found the answer is always in this site. In maintaining the boat, I try to balance opposing cliches......."don't fix it if it isn't broken"........and "you can't be afraid of your boat".


So, the other day I decide to test the engine and attempt to get the revs up while motoring...........can't get above 1900 RPM. No big deal........it must be a dirty prop, like always..........so I dive on the prop and find some peach fuzz and a few smalll barnacles but not enough (in my estimation) to cause the loss of revs (this has happened to me before quite often when I lived at Miami Beach Marina for 2 years).


So after cleaning the prop I test the boat again and am able to achieve 2800 RPMs without vibration or problem (a bit of additional exhaust smell maybe but I think that was wind direction). This still leaves me uncomfortable since I feel like there should have been more fouling on the prop.


I have in my spares 4 new fuel injectors, guides, fuel line, etc........everything I need to change the injectors; however this is a project I've never done before. I'm normally decisive in this situation but don't really have a direction figured out yet. So, what now ?


1) do nothing......engine has only 2600 hours and things seem OK now. Also, it might not even be the injectors !!!

2) pay a guy to change the injectors and test the engine (hate this option)

3) change the injectors myself (my uncle, the former chief mechanic for a major US city thinks I'm a wimp to even consider paying someone else.........says he could do this in an hour while drinking 3 Buds).


My hesistancy to reflexively go to the "do nothing" option is that if the problem re-emerges in someplace less saturated with potential help I will wish I had dealt with it now.


Thoughts ?



Re: Strange 24DC leakage

rossirossix4
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

ofer magen
 

Hi to all. 
I have this fenomena too. 
I traced it to the forward sail locker. There is always a lot of humidity there. Last time I was on the boat I dried all the electrical parts and sprayed it with corrosion x and greas. 
Light went off. 
I hope it will stay like this for a while... 

I hope it helps, 

Ofer Magen
Alba Amel54 160
Cyprus 

Re: Strange 24DC leakage

luvkante
 

Same with me! Happens SOMETIMES, never found the reason.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

James Alton
 

Ryan,

   Well I have used mineral spirits/paint thinner (for oil based paints,  not urethanes)  on Acrylics for 40 years on countless boats without any obvious negative effects but that is the only testing that I have done.  I always tape to keep the worst of the caulking off.  Scrap the bulk of the material off with something soft like the soft plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and then finish cleaning with rags and the paint thinner.  Also, if you only clean up a small area at a time, your caulking will be easier to remove.  Once you disturb the bead and spread it out thin, it cures much more quickly.

   Bill R. is definitely right that if you use a lower strength silicone that the future removal will be much easier.  My reasons for using the 3145 is because the caulking can last the life of the new plexiglass without leakage and I would rather fight with the removal aspect at the end than to deal with leaks and having to redo the caulking.  There seems to always be a piper to pay!  (grin)  The 3145 btw  is also non corrosive so the stainless screws fair a bit better than if you use the more common silicones with the acetic acid in them.  I think that there are other non corrosive silicones with a lower strength than the 3145 out there but don’t know of any that are clear or white off hand.  Perhaps others can help. 

Best of luck with your project.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 
  

On Apr 25, 2018, at 6:07 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

Porter McRoberts
 

Bill 

This looks excellent. 
Our 100amp Charger seems to be on the blink. 
Could this be a reasonable replacement?  
Seems so. 

Did you end up getting one?  

How was the install? I used victron for our solar and it is simply amazing. Cool with the Bluetooth dongle. 

Many thanks
 Porter
S/V Ibis 54-152




Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Apr 11, 2018, at 3:16 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Has anybody evaluated (or installed) the Victron auto isolation transfomer?

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Isolation-Transformers-EN.pdf


I hadn't seriously looked at an isolation transformer for our Amel SM before, mostly because when I last looked at them the prices and complexity to allow multivoltage input put me off.  Since we don't spend much time plugged into marinas, I hadn't put it as a high priority.


The Victron looks like it was designed for an AMEL...  It can take EITHER 110V/32amp or 220V/16 amp input, selecting between them automatically, and produce 220V/16amp output (or 110V if you wanted..), and all for less than US$1000...  That, and the entire installation and operation manual is only 10 pages long.


Certainly the specs look great, and having a real isolation transformer is a plus over a galvanic isolator. And having wiring on the boat working exactly as designed even when plugged into 110V is a extra benefit.


It almost sounds like one of those "too good to be true" things, but Victron stuff has been top shelf in my experience so far...


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

 

Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

smiles bernard
 

I never do any silicone work anymore without these


They make every job a pleasure and leave a professional clean job that can be prone to make you feel smug. 

Miles


On 25 Apr 2018, at 20:40, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine.  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA