Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Bill,


  Do you have the 78hp Volvo with a governor ?  Can you tell me how the governor works--and what might upset it ?


Ian


From: Ian & Judy
Sent: 27 April 2018 09:23:23
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
 

Thanks, Bill,


 Alas....in neutral the revs do what they oughta do.


I will have to risk  trying the local Volvo agent.


Incidentally, to anyone who has had Volvo work done near Athens, does Mantalas Kyriakos have a decent reputation ?      Anyone else ?


Ian


Pen Azen, SM 302, Athens, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 19:52:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
 


Ian,

Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?

If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.

If YES, then...  I am not sure...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Nick,


That's very  interesting, and I shall follow it up--but I don't think my Volvo has a sensor like yours---it's 18 years old and no computer has been near it in that time !

In neutral the revs are fine.

It runs at 2000 revs happily even with the Onan on at the same time, so I don't think there can be any problem with the fuel supply being blocked.  It must be something on the engine.


The fuel injection pump was checked by Bosch in December 2016, 300 hours ago and was passed fit. Everything certainly worked as it should last season.


I am beginning to wonder it there is something wrong with the governor. On the 78hp Volvo  in the SM Amel govern it down to 60hp.  I assume that a governor works by limiting the supply of fuel. In neutral, you only need a small supply of fuel to exceed 2800 revs so the governor doesn't reduce the revs in neutral. However, under load, 2800 is tops.


Needless to say, trying to get an answer out of a Volvo agent in Athens at the beginning of the season is turning into a saga of its own.


Anyone who has sailed in Greek waters have any suggestions for a mechanic who knows what he's doing ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece




From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of Nick Newington ngtnewington@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 17:23:23
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvos.......
 


Hi,

I had a similar  problem on my Amel 54 with Volvo 110hp turbo. Thought it was the turbo but it turned out to be the sensor  which measures turbo boost pressure. It is located on starboard side on the Volvo and 5 minute job to change but expensive part 350 euros. Problem solved. I had to get a Volvo technician to diagnose the fault with his computer though as I was unable to diagnose the problem.

Do you have an EVC  computer thing giving boost pressure? If that is stuck the EVC will limit the rpm. Sometimes these modern engines can be too clever! You could also check the turbo is sucking and the little arm goes back and forward. If it is stuck just work it with some WD40. If the boost pressure does not come up then I think it is the sensor.
Can you get 2800 in neutral? When I had my problem i could get 2800 in neutral but not under load.


Nick
On 26 Apr 2018, at 17:13, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi All,

I thought this subject had been reviewed so many times that there was nothing else to know. However.....

Last year our 78hp Volvo was partially rebuilt by the Volvo agent in Hyeres. Not a happy experience, but we did end up with an engine performing as it should. With a clean bottom and prop  the rev counter went up to 2800 with a top speed in calm water of about 8.4k, much the same as when the boat was launched 18 years ago. We are pretty rigorous about opening the throttle to max every 12 hours or so.

We put about 290 hours on the engine and then left the boat ashore till this month. I changed the oil and fuel filters. We have twin Racors before fuel reaches the engine.

Having launched, with a spotless bottom and Autoprop, we  motored for about 12 hours at no more than 1900 revs.
Performance was perfect- up to 7.1k at 1800.    I then opened the throttle but with the lever full ahead the revs would not exceed 2100.  At 2000 revs we do 7.3k and at 2100 7.7k, what I would expect. But nothing above 2100.

More than that, on four occasions when I have tried full throttle the revs have fallen back  suddenly to about 1500, on one occasion stopping the engine.

I should mention that the refit included a new turbo , injectors and exhaust elbow and the fuel pump was sent off to Bosch who confirmed that it was fine

Diving on the prop shows that it is still spotless.

My thoughts are that there must be a fuel shortage when I open the throttle; that there is sufficient flow up to 2100  for the engine to perform correctly but above that there is fuel starvation.  I have changed both the engine and the Racor filters again, in case some fuel bug had grown over the winter and blocked them. The ones I took off were spotless and the fuel they contained was also spotless.

Anyone got any thoughts ?

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece

My thoug





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

Patrick McAneny
 


Gary, Thanks for getting back on that , I ordered the bearings from Euro Marine , they are now about $24 for a pair , still cheap in boat dollars.
Thanks,
Pat SM #123

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 28, 2018 2:20 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

 
Hi Pat  I had the same thought as you, i.e. remove only one side.  Didn’t work, the “grip” of the car is so close tolerance that it can’t be rotated enough to slide off laterally from the remaining side of the “T”.  I incrementally whittled away at the sides of the “T” and found that only about 1/32 to 1/16th inch of the “T” top could be left in place on each side of the vertical web portion of the track.  

Don’t forget to protect the gel coat & metal parts from slips of the grinder.  I used an angle grinder for bulk work & Dremmel tool cut off wheels & grinding bits for closer tolerance work, finishing off with hand files. 

All the best,
Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
 AMEL SM 2000 # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks for this Bill. 
It gives me confidence to have a go at dismantling the rack and pinion unit. 
Looks like the SM has a very similar steering system
Another idea from James is that the clutch on the autopilot is not disengaging properly which would be an easier if potentially costly fix.

Does anyone know if and how the morse steering cables them selves are lubricated? 

Thanks again?
Miles


On 27 Apr 2018, at 23:55, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,


We haven't had any problem with the steering, but Harmonie's previous owners did.  You might find their blog post about the issue and the pictures helpful...


[Just noticed the blog posting address number after pasting it here...  I hope it isn't an omen for you!]

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:  

Yes I considered amputating the track but there are two anchor screws in the track aft of the bolt and I would have been left with discolored gelcoat and screw holes where the amputated track was. Additionally, I wondered if Amel knew something that I didn’t regarding structural strength so I chose to be minimally invasive.  Still it was an emotional challenge to cut into my boat like this.
I am thinking of trying to use some clear Alodine treatment on the raw edges of the aluminum for corrosion control.

Gary




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Pat  I had the same thought as you, i.e. remove only one side.  Didn’t work, the “grip” of the car is so close tolerance that it can’t be rotated enough to slide off laterally from the remaining side of the “T”.  I incrementally whittled away at the sides of the “T” and found that only about 1/32 to 1/16th inch of the “T” top could be left in place on each side of the vertical web portion of the track.  

Don’t forget to protect the gel coat & metal parts from slips of the grinder.  I used an angle grinder for bulk work & Dremmel tool cut off wheels & grinding bits for closer tolerance work, finishing off with hand files. 

All the best,
Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
 AMEL SM 2000 # 335


Re: Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?

greatketch@...
 

Miles,

We haven't had any problem with the steering, but Harmonie's previous owners did.  You might find their blog post about the issue and the pictures helpful...


[Just noticed the blog posting address number after pasting it here...  I hope it isn't an omen for you!]

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you James of Sueño.

Will try disconnecting that tube as well.

Best,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères


Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?

smiles bernard
 

Hello there group

I’ve been wondering about the source of the stiffness of my steering`

Following good advice from this forum I removed the Morse steering cables from the rudder quadrant

Once disconnected the rudder turned really freely so the stiffness must be in the morse steering cables or in the rack and pinion/steering wheel assembly itself

Rather hopefully I added some grease via the grease nipples on the rack/pinion. Sadly this did not help reduce the stiffness 

I’d be interested to hear if anyone on the forum who has experience of somehow reducing friction in the steering cables and/or taking apart the rack and pinion for service. 

Or has any thoughts about the likely stiffness and any things i could try

I assume the next step is to unbolt the rack n pinion and take it apart but I’m a little concerned about how easy it’ll be to put back together again!

I’ve attached a pic of the rack/pinion assembly on my boat in case its the same as others on the forum...I’m not sure if this system is also used on the super maramus?

Any thoughts or advice very much appreciated

Does anyone have any experience of replacing the steering cables? If so i'd be really interested in how this was carried out and where the cables were sourced from 

Many thanks in advance

Miles
1985 Older Maramu



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Thomas,  

Lori and I expect to be arriving in Martinique next Tues or Wed, 2 or 3 May.   We will also be heading to Bonaire.

I hope we can connect more next week.

Dan and Lori Carlson, an #387, sv BeBe




On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 12:45 PM, thomas. kleman
wrote:
 

Hello Amelians- Would love to get advice, so please indulge me. Situation: I'm in Martinique, three weeks from heading to Bonaire for hurricane season.........then Aruba, Columbia, Panama, and through the canal......i.e. about to head away from the island chain and abundant technical support.


Through owning L'ORIENT (SM2K #422) for 8 years (and being cheap), I've become fairly technically competent with the boat and haven't paid for a technician in years.........and owe a lot to the posts I've read here for that. While not every repair has been smooth I've found the answer is always in this site. In maintaining the boat, I try to balance opposing cliches......."don't fix it if it isn't broken"........and "you can't be afraid of your boat".


So, the other day I decide to test the engine and attempt to get the revs up while motoring...........can't get above 1900 RPM. No big deal........it must be a dirty prop, like always..........so I dive on the prop and find some peach fuzz and a few smalll barnacles but not enough (in my estimation) to cause the loss of revs (this has happened to me before quite often when I lived at Miami Beach Marina for 2 years).


So after cleaning the prop I test the boat again and am able to achieve 2800 RPMs without vibration or problem (a bit of additional exhaust smell maybe but I think that was wind direction). This still leaves me uncomfortable since I feel like there should have been more fouling on the prop.


I have in my spares 4 new fuel injectors, guides, fuel line, etc........everything I need to change the injectors; however this is a project I've never done before. I'm normally decisive in this situation but don't really have a direction figured out yet. So, what now ?


1) do nothing......engine has only 2600 hours and things seem OK now. Also, it might not even be the injectors !!!

2) pay a guy to change the injectors and test the engine (hate this option)

3) change the injectors myself (my uncle, the former chief mechanic for a major US city thinks I'm a wimp to even consider paying someone else.........says he could do this in an hour while drinking 3 Buds).


My hesistancy to reflexively go to the "do nothing" option is that if the problem re-emerges in someplace less saturated with potential help I will wish I had dealt with it now.


Thoughts ?




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

greatketch@...
 

I can not comment on Furuno comparability specifically, but our Raymarine AIS works just fine with our B&G instruments. It did require a special cable adapter to connect the proprietary “Seatalk” connectors into standard NMEA2k system.

AIS data transmitted on the NMEA bus protocol should be completely comparable across manufacturers, especially since the unit sold by Raymarine is an industry standard AIS with Raymarine labels and connectors.

The Raymarine AIS unit on our boat was installed by the previous owner, and he had only interfaced it via 0183 to his laptop. When we bought Harmonie she had no NMEA2k network. Other than the cable adapter, the AIS was very much plug n’ play.

One of the reasons I have avoided Raymarine in general is their attempts to close off their system as much as they can. The whole point of a NMEA2k system is so different manufacturer’s equipment can play well together.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

Patrick McAneny
 

Gary, I also need to remove my cars and I guess this is the solution , I can now stop scratching my head , I was going bald. Do you think the car could be remove if I only removed only one side of the rail ? I was wondering if you could pick up one side and then slide it over and out. It may be too tight of a fit to allow it to be angled up. I guess I can answer this for myself when I do the job . Thanks for the source of the bearings. 
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2018 2:35 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

 
Hi Chris:

I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons.  1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side.  In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft.  You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring.   I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference.  So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T"  of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car.  I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look.. & nbsp;Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward.  I hope that makes sense.  It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal

 

Gary,

That is a perfect solution. Did you consider cutting the bitter end of the track completely off at a point just beyond the bolt?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

 

Don't underestimate the power of a single barnacle. A single barnacle located in just the right spot on a single prop blade on an AutoProp can cause that single blade to bight the water at a deeper angle, causing vibration and a loss of RPM.

AutoProp is the best all-round propeller for your SM, but does require meticulous cleaning for optimum efficiency of operation.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Bill,


 Alas....in neutral the revs do what they oughta do.


I will have to risk  trying the local Volvo agent.


Incidentally, to anyone who has had Volvo work done near Athens, does Mantalas Kyriakos have a decent reputation ?      Anyone else ?


Ian


Pen Azen, SM 302, Athens, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 19:52:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
 


Ian,

Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?

If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.

If YES, then...  I am not sure...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage

 

Thomas,

Good Job!

I don't have an answer to your question, but the 54 bow thruster (as well as the SM) receives 24VDC from 2 sources:
  1. The control 24VDC source which originates at the helm
  2. The "run" 24VDC source which is direct to the bank
I believe there is a "resting" connection at relay #4 on the 54 between the "run" 24VDC source and the control 24VDC source. By "resting," I mean without any activation of any control switch.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 9:31 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi everyone,

So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster.   Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. 

We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. 

One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: 
Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... 
We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... 

So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? 

If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout.  

On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine!

TBC


Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 at 14:24, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

I have just completed the update from the originally fitted Furuno NMEA-0183 to NMEA-2000.
I did this in 2 stages. 
I stayed with mostly Furuno as I discovered that trying to mix created problems that bits were not talking to each other.
The AIS was supplied from Digital Yacht on recommendation from Furuno with the 12” Furuno EZ Touch display at the helm. The original depth and wind was converted from 0183 to 2000 by using an Actisense converter as the Furuno converter would not talk to the B&G Hydra. 2 new Furuno displays in place of the B&G displays on the dash panel.
I stayed was using the old Furuno Chart Plotter display for radar only.
I just completed the change over to the new Furuno digital radar and new depth and wind for NMEA 2000.
I now have complete digital and full NMEA-2000.
I took out all of the originally fitted B&G and Furuno and sold it to the owner of an ex charter boat, who did not want to over capitalize his boat investment. He took all of the wiring and cabling. I sold the Actisense converter on Ebay for £45.
I had a little bit of trial and error, Furuno and their seller (Cactus) were very helpful with advise on connecting and exchanging bits. B&G also helped with phone advise during the change over. 
What I found out was that you must be carful when mixing manufacturers bits.
I did all the change over myself with phone help from tech people at Furuno, B&G, Digital Yacht and Cactus.
I also installed a Digital Yacht PC with TV monitor at the chart table connected to the EZ Touch via HDMI cable.
I never felt that I was a bother to any of these suppliers even though I was phoning them a lot.
I did speak to Raymarine before I started this project but decided to stay with Furuno and who they recommended. Raymarine did not instill confidence in me to go with them, Furuno did.
Hope this is of some help and good luck with you upgrade.
I am very happy with my new system.

Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Soon to depart:’
 Marina di Ragusa.  Sicily


On Apr 25, 2018, at 21:38, Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone in the Group


I have a Furuno AIS Receiver (passive) and I'd like to upgrade to a Transceiver (active). Now since I plan to go to Raymarine Electronics sometimes in the Future (Radar/Chartplotter etc.), I asked Reymarine for such a new active AIS box (I would have one part Raymarine already by then).

 

Now the Raymarine engineer came on board and said that the Raymarine AIS will not be compatible with my Furuno Chart plotter even if both are talking NMEA2000. I was surprised about this comment and I'm confused now weather this guy will only sell other new Raymarine components or is it real!?


When I insisted he said; YES that Raymarine AIS also talks NMEA2000 but still then it will not work correctly. His English was not perfect like mine, but I understood that this is Reymarine politics (they just don't want to have this configuration running). I have Furuno NAVnet vx2 on my AMEL-54 (2007).


Who else in the group experienced the same or does know if this is correct or wrong statement from Reymarine. If this is product politics I'm rather not going to Reymarine in the future.... ;-) 


Thanks for advice

Ruedi 

SY WASABI A54 #55




Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:  

My original reply didn't post for some reason.  I recently did the modification to the rail (as show in the photo in my other post).  

Amel clearly made an error in extending this track too far aft as there is no way to remove the car without modifying the track.  There is never any reason to run the car that far aft.

Even when the "stopper" bolt is removed the car runs into the chainplate/lifting ring, preventing it's removal.  The only way to remove the car is to cut the track with an angle grinder (at least that is how I did it), then radius and dress a section of the track that is the length of the car so that once the "stopper" bolt is removed the car can be slid aft and lifted from the track. 

When grinding make sure to protect the toe-rail and areas of the track you don't desire to cut as slips with an angle grinder are in inevitable.  
 
The plastic slides are available from Euro Marine Trading (USA), G30.40A PVC inserts 160 mm long  $18.25 set of 2 ea,  plus shipping 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Currently Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <rettirc@...> wrote :

Greetings Amelians,


I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars.  I need to replace the plastic sliders. 


Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located.  


I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track.  I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver.  


Thanks in advance. 


Chris Shiels


"Jaygo". SM224


Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Chris:  I posted a picture here  https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1845658937/lightbox/1742109589?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1742109589
Showing the modification I made to the jib sheet car track to allow removal of the car. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona


Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:

I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons.  1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side.  In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft.  You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring.   I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference.  So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T"  of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car.  I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look..  Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward.  I hope that makes sense.  It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico