Re: Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?
greatketch@...
Miles,
We haven't had any problem with the steering, but Harmonie's previous owners did. You might find their blog post about the issue and the pictures helpful... [Just noticed the blog posting address number after pasting it here... I hope it isn't an omen for you!] Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Thank you James of Sueño.
Will try disconnecting that tube as well. Best, Peregrinus SM2K N. 350 (2002) Hyères
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Steering stiffness (but not from rudder) ?
smiles bernard
Hello there group I’ve been wondering about the source of the stiffness of my steering` Following good advice from this forum I removed the Morse steering cables from the rudder quadrant Once disconnected the rudder turned really freely so the stiffness must be in the morse steering cables or in the rack and pinion/steering wheel assembly itself Rather hopefully I added some grease via the grease nipples on the rack/pinion. Sadly this did not help reduce the stiffness I’d be interested to hear if anyone on the forum who has experience of somehow reducing friction in the steering cables and/or taking apart the rack and pinion for service. Or has any thoughts about the likely stiffness and any things i could try I assume the next step is to unbolt the rack n pinion and take it apart but I’m a little concerned about how easy it’ll be to put back together again! I’ve attached a pic of the rack/pinion assembly on my boat in case its the same as others on the forum...I’m not sure if this system is also used on the super maramus? Any thoughts or advice very much appreciated Does anyone have any experience of replacing the steering cables? If so i'd be really interested in how this was carried out and where the cables were sourced from Many thanks in advance Miles 1985 Older Maramu
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........
Hello Thomas,
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Lori and I expect to be arriving in Martinique next Tues or Wed, 2 or 3 May. We will also be heading to Bonaire. I hope we can connect more next week. Dan and Lori Carlson, an #387, sv BeBe
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?
greatketch@...
I can not comment on Furuno comparability specifically, but our Raymarine AIS works just fine with our B&G instruments. It did require a special cable adapter to connect the proprietary “Seatalk” connectors into standard NMEA2k system.
AIS data transmitted on the NMEA bus protocol should be completely comparable across manufacturers, especially since the unit sold by Raymarine is an industry standard AIS with Raymarine labels and connectors. The Raymarine AIS unit on our boat was installed by the previous owner, and he had only interfaced it via 0183 to his laptop. When we bought Harmonie she had no NMEA2k network. Other than the cable adapter, the AIS was very much plug n’ play. One of the reasons I have avoided Raymarine in general is their attempts to close off their system as much as they can. The whole point of a NMEA2k system is so different manufacturer’s equipment can play well together. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal
Patrick McAneny
Gary, I also need to remove my cars and I guess this is the solution , I can now stop scratching my head , I was going bald. Do you think the car could be remove if I only removed only one side of the rail ? I was wondering if you could pick up one side and then slide it over and out. It may be too tight of a fit to allow it to be angled up. I guess I can answer this for myself when I do the job . Thanks for the source of the bearings.
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Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: amelliahona To: amelyachtowners Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2018 2:35 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal Hi Chris:
I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons. 1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side. In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft. You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring. I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference. So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T" of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car. I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look.. &
nbsp;Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward. I hope that makes sense. It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen.
Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jib car removal
Gary, That is a perfect solution. Did you consider cutting the bitter end of the track completely off at a point just beyond the bolt? Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........
Don't underestimate the power of a single barnacle. A single barnacle located in just the right spot on a single prop blade on an AutoProp can cause that single blade to bight the water at a deeper angle, causing vibration and a loss of RPM. AutoProp is the best all-round propeller for your SM, but does require meticulous cleaning for optimum efficiency of operation. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Thanks, Bill,
Alas....in neutral the revs do what they oughta do.
I will have to risk trying the local Volvo agent.
Incidentally, to anyone who has had Volvo work done near Athens, does Mantalas Kyriakos have a decent reputation ? Anyone else ?
Ian
Pen Azen, SM 302, Athens, Greece
From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 19:52:36 To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos....... Ian, Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?
If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.
If YES, then... I am not sure...
Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage
Thomas, Good Job! I don't have an answer to your question, but the 54 bow thruster (as well as the SM) receives 24VDC from 2 sources:
I believe there is a "resting" connection at relay #4 on the 54 between the "run" 24VDC source and the control 24VDC source. By "resting," I mean without any activation of any control switch. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 9:31 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?
Hi Ruedi,
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I have just completed the update from the originally fitted Furuno NMEA-0183 to NMEA-2000. I did this in 2 stages. I stayed with mostly Furuno as I discovered that trying to mix created problems that bits were not talking to each other. The AIS was supplied from Digital Yacht on recommendation from Furuno with the 12” Furuno EZ Touch display at the helm. The original depth and wind was converted from 0183 to 2000 by using an Actisense converter as the Furuno converter would not talk to the B&G Hydra. 2 new Furuno displays in place of the B&G displays on the dash panel. I stayed was using the old Furuno Chart Plotter display for radar only. I just completed the change over to the new Furuno digital radar and new depth and wind for NMEA 2000. I now have complete digital and full NMEA-2000. I took out all of the originally fitted B&G and Furuno and sold it to the owner of an ex charter boat, who did not want to over capitalize his boat investment. He took all of the wiring and cabling. I sold the Actisense converter on Ebay for £45. I had a little bit of trial and error, Furuno and their seller (Cactus) were very helpful with advise on connecting and exchanging bits. B&G also helped with phone advise during the change over. What I found out was that you must be carful when mixing manufacturers bits. I did all the change over myself with phone help from tech people at Furuno, B&G, Digital Yacht and Cactus. I also installed a Digital Yacht PC with TV monitor at the chart table connected to the EZ Touch via HDMI cable. I never felt that I was a bother to any of these suppliers even though I was phoning them a lot. I did speak to Raymarine before I started this project but decided to stay with Furuno and who they recommended. Raymarine did not instill confidence in me to go with them, Furuno did. Hope this is of some help and good luck with you upgrade. I am very happy with my new system. Best Regards Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Soon to depart:’ Marina di Ragusa. Sicily
On Apr 25, 2018, at 21:38, Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Jib car removal
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Chris:
My original reply didn't post for some reason. I recently did the modification to the rail (as show in the photo in my other post). Amel clearly made an error in extending this track too far aft as there is no way to remove the car without modifying the track. There is never any reason to run the car that far aft. Even when the "stopper" bolt is removed the car runs into the chainplate/lifting ring, preventing it's removal. The only way to remove the car is to cut the track with an angle grinder (at least that is how I did it), then radius and dress a section of the track that is the length of the car so that once the "stopper" bolt is removed the car can be slid aft and lifted from the track. When grinding make sure to protect the toe-rail and areas of the track you don't desire to cut as slips with an angle grinder are in inevitable. The plastic slides are available from Euro Marine Trading (USA), G30.40A PVC inserts 160 mm long $18.25 set of 2 ea, plus shipping Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 Currently Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico ---In amelyachtowners@..., <rettirc@...> wrote : Greetings Amelians, I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars. I need to replace the plastic sliders. Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located. I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track. I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver. Thanks in advance. Chris Shiels "Jaygo". SM224
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Re: Jib car removal
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Chris: I posted a picture here https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1845658937/lightbox/1742109589?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1742109589
Showing the modification I made to the jib sheet car track to allow removal of the car. Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona
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Re: Jib car removal
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Chris:
I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons. 1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side. In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft. You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring. I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference. So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T" of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car. I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look.. Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward. I hope that makes sense. It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Victron Auto Isolation Transformer
Bill I have one of these on board, the 3600w Victron Islolation transformer version on your data sheet, but the version with physical jumpers to move internally to select between 110v/220v input. To be honest, it has been on board for over a year and I have yet to install it, as we have been at anchor mostly and it will really become most usefull to me when we reach the east coast of USA where I may leave the boat in a marina for a few months. The 3600w version is pretty heavy and I've been trying to find a suitable position for it. My current plan is to bolt it on the shelf up behind the Onan generator, bolted through the fwd wall of the life raft (200L spare diesel in my case in jerry cans) locker as that is close to the shore power input cable box. My only issue is that I already have so much weight on that side as I often have the spare fuel full at present crossing so many oceans. Also, I have not yet worked out how to best connect it into that special Amel shore power junction box........waiting for someone smarter with electronics (like you!) to do it first so I can copy you. I never just let any marine electrician loose on Island Pearl until I am sure that the Amel Guru's on this site have already pioneered connections in the correct "AMEL" way. After seeing my unit (and trying to purchase it off me...which I refused) a good cruising friend in Malaysia purchased and installed the exact same unit on his boat. He has been extremely satisfied with it since. Very keen to follow this thread and see where and how you connect it Bill. These are the most solid and robust isolation transformers you can purchase with the added advantage of a very heavy duty 110/220v transformer you can trust, however from what I have been advised, it is better to go with the 3600w instead of the 2000w Best regards Colin Streeter SV Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives (leaving for Chagos this next week)
On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:03 PM, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Jib car removal
rettirc@...
Greetings Amelians, I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars. I need to replace the plastic sliders. Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located. I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track. I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver. Thanks in advance. Chris Shiels "Jaygo". SM224
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick
James Alton
Hyères, The quickly oil resoaked air filter is also making me think that engine oil could be causing the oil spots on the water. A simple test to check to see if the engine oil is coming up from the tube that vents the crankcase is to decouple the tube from the intake, place it in a bucket and run the engine briefly and see if you have oil spatters in the bucket. If you have a lot of blow by from the crankcase you will also see what looks like exhaust coming from the tube, which hopefully will not be the case since that may mean that you have more serious problems. I am not familiar with the exact crankcase ventilation system on your engine but most systems also incorporate a drain back systemso that much of the oil blown into the engine intake from the crankcase ventilation system can drain back to the crankcase. If the drain back system is not not functioning properly, oil can pool in the intake system and be drawn into the engine. It sounds like you have been pretty meticulous with your engine maintenance so hopefully this turns out to be something simple. Best of luck, James SV Sueño Maramu #220
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage
Sv Garulfo
Hi everyone, So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster. Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout. On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine! TBC Fair winds, Thomas GARULFO Amel 54 #122 Saint Martin, FWI
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Re: Volvos.......
greatketch@...
Ian,
Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)? If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor. If YES, then... I am not sure... Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........
Porter McRoberts
Get 12 buds. And your uncle.
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Then make sure you have the “paid professional” on back up. I don’t have a SM but 2800 seems in the ball park. Yes? See you in Bonaire!! Porter McRoberts Ibis 54-152. Monserrat.
On Apr 26, 2018, at 9:56 AM, thomas.kleman <no_reply@...> wrote:
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