Date   

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bush***RESPONSE TO *** IMPORTANT RESPONSE***

rossirossix4
 

A bit of a twist on this issue.  Like many of us I am now using 90w oil vs 15-w40 and it is lighter colored.  Used to be that it was lighter and then milky.  Just curious, has anyone noticed how 90w looks when it starts to get mixed with salt water?
Bob, KAIMI SM429


Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bush***RESPONSE TO *** IMPORTANT RE

Miles
 

Hello Jose,

I wonder what grease you are using.  I change my wearing out bearing  every 650 hours or so using the Amel pattern.  I have done this for 20 years and I have never had any leakage of any kind.  I use silicone grease as does Amel.  It is very water resistant and is clearly still present after 650 hours.   I don’t understand basing the change period on years rather than hours used.  After how many hours did you have the leaks?

Miles s/y Ladybug, sm216  Martinique


Re: Compensating for Additional Weight of Solar Installation

Mark Isaac
 

Hi John,

Thanks for the info. You bring up a good point, unfortunately I didn't make a note of how the boat sat before I put the solar on. The exhaust port is probably 3/4 under water when the boat is at rest.

Hope you're enjoying the VIs.

Mark


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rivets for Head sail furling foil

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

James, 

Thank you very much. I found oversized 1/4" diameter.  I want to get flush head, aluminum CR 3252.
Box of 100 is a minimum order.
What are you buying? 
Perhaps we can split the box 50-50. Are you interested?

I have some reservations on total length. It is 1mm longer than we have. Perhaps I have to drill inner tube. We will see.

Vladimir
SM345


On Tue, May 8, 2018, 10:46 James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Vladimir,


   I am on the run today but will get back to this soon.  Below is part of an email from my engineering friend in Aerospace that contains suggestions on finding the oversized rivets.  I have definitely seen reference to the oversize rivets on the Cherry rivet site so they must exist.  Here is the Cherry link again,  see page 7


  Thank you for the warning about the 23mm maximum rivet length.  I ordered two sizes from Fastenal since I was unsure of the exact grip length so I think that one of those will fit.

Jim,

There are many blind fasteners made for aircraft by Cherry, Huck, etc.  Most are available "oversize" for rework.  I've seen aluminum rivets with stainless mandrels.  Most achieve good shear strength by breaking the mandrel at the head end, and retaining it.

Best,

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On May 8, 2018, at 9:28 AM, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Jams,

Thanks for the links, but unfortunately I can't open FASTENAL link and WONKEEDO link. Those are very important for me.
Cherryaerospace I can open but I don't see oversized rivets.

Pleese keep in mind that maximum rivet length that you can put in, is 23 mm long from the bottom of the head to the very end of the mandrel. If it is longer, you have to drill a second hole in the inner tube of the foil.

Vladimir 
SM 345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

On Tue, May 8, 2018, 07:57 Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks James, good info.

Kent
S/V Kristy
Kent,

   I did not finish my research since it sounded like the 1/4” rivets might work for me so I did not source the oversized rivets.  I found some 1/4” (.255 OD) all Aluminum (alloy 5062 for the rivet body, the mandrel however is 7075) structural rivets at Fastenal with a higher shear strength (1300 lbs. min versus about 460) than the more common ones found at Marine stores and have those on order.  I will do some testing before using them on the boat.   I have some concerns about the 7075 mandrel. https://www.fastenal.com/content/product_specifications/RV.BH.STR.ALUM.ALUM.12.pdf

 here is what I found about the removal tool and the oversize rivets:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNq7EEAvvlA  Video of using the Rivet removal tool

http://www.cherryaerospace.com/product/blindrivets Mention of 1/64” oversize rivets


https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/rivets/what-blind-rivet-sizes-are-available/:  Mention of 9/32” rivets but I did not follow up.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main sheet boom slider broken

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

I didn’t knowingly do anything smart. I’m on my phone as was the photo, and while I was typing my response to you I just dropped down a couple lines (hit return) and then held my thumb on the cursor until the options pulled up (select, select all, quote level, >). I pressed the arrow on far right to take me to the second page of options and hit “insert photo or video” which took me to my photo library where I located the photo and hit “choose”. 

All the best, 
Steve
TouRai

On May 8, 2018, at 12:43 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks, Steve. How did you attach that pic?
Kent


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Do you want a spare Linear Actuator control board?

karkauai
 

Hi Mark,
I’m interested in getting one of your bow thruster linear actuator PCBs. I also want a spare worm gear and motor. Are these proprietary Amel parts, or available elsewhere?
I’m back in St Michaels, currently on a mooring in Leeds Creek. Are you in Deale?
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: Steerring Wheel Cover

karkauai
 

Hi Pat,
How is your ColorWheelzs helm wheel cover holding up? Do you keep it covered when not in use?

I’m thinking I’d like to do this to my wheel and the companionway hand rail.

Thanks and Hi to Diane.

I’m back inSt M, on a mooring in LeedsCteek until I can get my new anchor/chain delivered.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: NMEA 0183 wire color?

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Duane,

We do the same: we took a couple of otherwise unused "out" wires from a B&G chartplotter and got them "in" to the Raymarine autopilot head.  This way, the Raytheon T-300 computer can sail to a wind angle, and the Raymarine autopilot head can then display water temperature, get the name of the waypoint to which we are navigating, calculate distance and time to waypoint, etc.

You will need to enable the B&G plotter to output NMEA, and enable only the NMEA sentences which the Raymarine can understand.  The more sentences you enable, the slower the NMEA bits, as far as I can tell.

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
underway, Sardinia to Sicily


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main sheet boom slider broken

karkauai
 

Thanks, Steve. How did you attach that pic?
Kent


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Frigoboat AV35F

 

John,

The Compressor Start Capacitor is not normally accessible on Frigoboat systems. It is inside the Danfoss compressor controller.

I would order this at the same time: http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/616/ It is a multi voltage/frequency Danfoss Compressor Controller which will also connect to 230VAC voltage and automatically switch from DC voltage to AC voltage when available.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 10:36 AM, brass.ring@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Take a look at the capacitors associated with this unit.  A bad capacitor is a possible problem that will prevent the compressor from starting.  Good luck.

Mark Mueller
A54 - 68
Brass Ring
Ft. Lauderdale



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main sheet boom slider broken

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Hi Kent, 

I had the same crack when I bought TouRai and had it separate from the boom entirely on my first move from Lauderdale to Brunswick, GA. I had Houston from Nance and Underwood in Lauderdale make a new fitting that put all three attachment points on a single, much more substantial fitting. It slides in to the original T-track and has several screws that hold it in place along the track like the originals. I am very happy with it and have tremendously more confidence in it that the original separate fittings. I brought them my boom as there was damage to my track, but I suspect he could make one for you remotely as well. 

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Hilton Head, SC




On May 8, 2018, at 12:11 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,
I just discovered that the main sheet connector at the boom is cracked/broken. The “T” has broken from the vertical part. Pics attached. Does anyone know who makes this part, size or part number?

What is it called?

Thanks, as usual, for any help.
Kent
SN 243
KRISTY


Re: Main sheet boom slider broken

karkauai
 

Hmmm, how do I attach a photo to a message?
Thanks
Kent


Main sheet boom slider broken

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I just discovered that the main sheet connector at the boom is cracked/broken. The “T” has broken from the vertical part. Pics attached. Does anyone know who makes this part, size or part number?

What is it called?

Thanks, as usual, for any help.
Kent
SN 243
KRISTY


Re: Charging / Discharging issue

John Clark
 

Agree with Ryan and Kent, something is not right.  I have six 110Ah AGMs and run the galley frig, one salon freezer, a 24v portable chest cooler, VHF, anchor light, and a 230v inverter supplying an icemaker, and two laptops and phone chargers. There is an occasional load from the microwave.
  We have 630 W solar which carries the constant load, and charges batteries at ~5 amps during a sunny day.  In the evening the battery will discharge at a rate between 2 and 10 amps depending on what is cycling on.  Average night we will draw down the battery ~24%. 
  My routine is to run the genset once in the morning and bring the batteries to ~95% then let the solar complete the charge during the day.  The charge starts out putting in ~95A and tapers down as the battery voltage comes up. Charge time is usually an hour or less. 


Like you we run 100 amps of charging via one 60A and one 40A charger which work together until voltage reaches 28 volts.    Our finishing voltage is 28.5V.  The chargers float the battery at 26.5V, the solar floats at 27.5V   We have a battery monitor on the DC breaker panel in the galley that monitors charge rate, Ah in/out, voltage and % capacity.  

The % capacity is a "calculated data point."  It uses some information that you have to program in including the size of the battery bank.  If the size is incorrect it will affect how it calculates capacity.  

I don't think your genset would affect the charge rate or battery issues, so you can at least not worry about that part of the system. 

A photo of your battery monitor and maybe take some readings of voltage, current and %capacity every 15 minutes during your next charge would help figure out what is going on. 

            Regards,  John

SV Annie, SM 37
Druif Bay, Water Island USVI


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi Olaf,

How were you measuring the battery capacity?  Are you using a built-in battery monitor?  I wonder if there could be something wrong with that.  What did it show for the charge current when you were running the 100A charger?  What about the charge current when the solar and wind were going?  What was the current draw from your electronics?

Are you sure all of the batteries are connected?  Check the connections, and also check any battery terminal fuses that may be installed.

It would be worth a sanity check with a multimeter to verify the voltage at the battery bank is what the monitor claims (and you can also use this voltage with some tables you'll find online to estimate the state of charge, if there is no load/charger on the bank when you took the measurement).  You can also use your multimeter to measure the voltage across the shunt resistor used by the battery monitor; with the shunt's resistance (should be printed on it) and Ohm's law you can verify the current flow.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 10:59 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

You definitely have a problem, Olaf.  I have 90AHr batteries, and they last 10-12 hrs at anchor, an hour or so of charging with the Onan gets them back to 90+% of capacity.


I have lead acid batteries, and can’t comment on how to check AGMs.  With lead acid batteries, a cold cranking amps test and specific gravity of the electrolyte can help figure out what is wrong.

Do AGMs need equalizing???
Kent
SM243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 6, 2018, at 8:46 PM, olaf_renos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 

Hello AMELians,

 

On Friday I was first time out on anchorage with my SM2K and wondered about the discharging of the batteries. The discharging was around 20% within 6 hours! Only the fridge, refrigerator (on level 2) and the VHF were turned on. No more.

 

Furthermore, the wind generator was running all the time and the solar panel filled at that time as-well.

 

I my opinion this isn’t normal and I guess as minimum one battery isn’t working properly.

 

I also wondered about the charging of the Onan Generator. I run it with 100Amp charger and it could only fill up the batteries by ca. 2% in 1,5 hours!

 

What is the best way to find out what is wrong? Checking the batteries? How to check them if they don’t work properly?

 

My questions are now:

·        Is that the normal charging rate of the Onan generator by using the 100Amp charge controller with those kinds of batteries?

·        How is the normal charging rate of the Onan generator with those kind of battery setup?

·        Or do I have an issue with the Onan generator? When that seems to be how could I find out / what I have to check?

·        How could I find out or what is the best way to find out if the batteries are working properly or not?

 

Batteries

AGM batteries Vision EV-27-AM and the capacity of each one is 100 Ah = 600Ah.

 

Solar Panel 245W

 

Wind Generator Silent Wind 400

 

 

Any help is highly appreciated.

 

Fair Winds

 

Olaf Bauer

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in St. Anne, Martinique

 



Re: Compensating for Additional Weight of Solar Installation

John Clark
 

Hi Mark,
    we installed the Emek arch which I believe is heavier than the Atlantic arch.  I have a similar distribution of heavy items, 80m of 10mm chain, two anchors forward, dinghy on foredeck and a 9.9 hp outboard in the lazarette.  I haven't noticed significant change in the waterline aft, in calm water the red stripe is dry.  The front does look like yours with the red strip higher above above the water.  I seem to recall that it looked the same before the arch was installed.  

We do get the slime/algae build up at the stern where the water continually slaps at the hull.  I don't know if moving the boot strip and antifouling line up will help much with that.

Is your engine exhaust port under water?  Mine sits right at the waterline, in fact I changed the exhaust hose while in the water at a marina.  Water was about 1 inch below the port. 

               John
SV Annie, SM 37
Druif Bay, Water Island USVI



SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bush***RESPONSE TO *** IMPORTANT RESPONSE***

Jose Venegas
 

Dear Bill,

I don't want to make this a major issue and I appreciate your comments, knowledge, and experience with our boats but I have several issues with your RESPONSE.

1) I am ONLY reporting the result of my experiment, NOT recommending anything to owners.  I would not recommend anybody without knowledge of mechanical engineering, seals, and lubrication to conduct experiments on their own but I thought that reporting my results to the group could be helpful to promote discussion about the topic. 

2) My reason to conduct the experiment was motivated by TWO  consecutive situations where water entered into the transmission before the 2 years. In both cases, I had followed carefully AMEL's recommendations and used original parts. 

3) The last incident of water ingress into the transmission happened as I was sailing back from Cartagena to the Bahamas and I was forced to run the engine for several hours during a bad storm north of Cuba with milky oil.  It was very stressfull to have to run hard the engine knowing that salt water was reducing the lubrication of the gears.

4) I agree that catastrophic loss of oil from the transmission leads to a very expensive damaged of the gears as much as catastrophic replacement of oil by saltwater would lead to the same type of damage.
However, experience tells us that seal damage is not catastrophic but gradual and shown by a change in color of the oil (with the seals in the recommended AMEL configuration), or a slow drop of a few mm per week in the oil level from the tank which can be refilled with a heavier oil as I did, totally eliminating the oil loss until the next haulout.  In contrast, watery oil cannot be replaced until the boat is haulout, potentially forcing you to do it in less than desirable places.  

5) My rationale for experimenting with the seal's direction was based on the physics of how seals work. A seal without lubrication will wear out faster than one with lubrication, and the AMEL recommended directions leave ALL seals unlubricated, THAT is a FACT.  So I  don't know how you can be so sure that the change in seal direction was not the reason for the difference in seal and bushing wear.

6) THE REAL QUESTION IS  WHETHER IT IS WORSE TO LOSE A LITTLE  OIL THAT  CAN BE REPLACED  OR RUN THE ENGINE WITH SALT  WATER IN THE TRANSMISSION WHICH KEEPS BRINGING THE LEVEL OF THE OIL TANK HIGHER AS WATER LEAKS IN.

7) THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT THE SEALS SHOULD BE REPLACED AT LEAST EVERY TWO YEARS AS recommended, but WITH THE PROPER SEAL DIRECTION it is likely that the bushing my last much longer if the seals are ALLOW proper lubrication.

Finally, let me suggest that if losing a little oil is thought to be worse that adding salt water, or EVEN WORSE fresh water with silt in rivers, to the gears, one could reverse the direction of the central seal to face away from the propeller.  That would have the two outer seals preventing oil from leaving and the inner one preventing water from entering.  Here ALL seals would still be lubricated.

AMEL has made fine cruising boats with incredible advantages for cruising and the Amel School Book is extremely helpfu to new and old owners.  However, that does not mean that their original designs cannot be improved as knowledgeable cruisers gain experience and try different approaches to improve on the few issues that remain unresolved.  Just see how many changes were done as the SM evolved over time.  AS FAR AS THE SEALS CONFIGURATION, I am now certain that the one proposed by AMEL is not ideal.  

Jose 

 




Frigoboat AV35F

John Clark
 

Hi All,

  My salon bench frig/freezer seems to have “retired.”  Luckily we where eating our way to the bottom of the freezer for cleaning when this occurred so we were able to relocate the little remaining perishable food to the other box.  I am looking at replacing the compressor unit with the Frigoboat AV 35F (part# E50025X) see at the link: http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/280/

 

We are currently in St Thomas USVI.  Our next stop is St. Maarten followed by island hopping to Martinique . If anyone has any advice on replacement before I commit to the purchase, I am all ears.    

 

 

 FYI for the techies:  I am pretty sure the compressor is the part that has failed as it blows the 7.5amp fuse on the freezer control box under the seat.  The fuse does not blow if the compressor is disconnected.  The compressor windings are not shorted, reading 4.8 ohms each and open with respect to the compressor housing.  According to the manufacturer this is higher resistance than normal.    Fuse blows instantly when power is applied.  With compressor out of the circuit, the fuse does not blow and after 2 seconds the cooling fan starts.  The current unit I believe is original to the boat, and is a Frigoboat AV24.  

 

               Regards,  John

 

SV Annie, SM 37

Druif Bay , Water Island USVI 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rivets for Head sail furling foil

James Alton
 

Vladimir,

   I am on the run today but will get back to this soon.  Below is part of an email from my engineering friend in Aerospace that contains suggestions on finding the oversized rivets.  I have definitely seen reference to the oversize rivets on the Cherry rivet site so they must exist.  Here is the Cherry link again,  see page 7


  Thank you for the warning about the 23mm maximum rivet length.  I ordered two sizes from Fastenal since I was unsure of the exact grip length so I think that one of those will fit.

Jim,

There are many blind fasteners made for aircraft by Cherry, Huck, etc.  Most are available "oversize" for rework.  I've seen aluminum rivets with stainless mandrels.  Most achieve good shear strength by breaking the mandrel at the head end, and retaining it.

Best,

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On May 8, 2018, at 9:28 AM, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Jams,

Thanks for the links, but unfortunately I can't open FASTENAL link and WONKEEDO link. Those are very important for me.
Cherryaerospace I can open but I don't see oversized rivets.

Pleese keep in mind that maximum rivet length that you can put in, is 23 mm long from the bottom of the head to the very end of the mandrel. If it is longer, you have to drill a second hole in the inner tube of the foil.

Vladimir 
SM 345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

On Tue, May 8, 2018, 07:57 Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks James, good info.

Kent
S/V Kristy
Kent,

   I did not finish my research since it sounded like the 1/4” rivets might work for me so I did not source the oversized rivets.  I found some 1/4” (.255 OD) all Aluminum (alloy 5062 for the rivet body, the mandrel however is 7075) structural rivets at Fastenal with a higher shear strength (1300 lbs. min versus about 460) than the more common ones found at Marine stores and have those on order.  I will do some testing before using them on the boat.   I have some concerns about the 7075 mandrel. https://www.fastenal.com/content/product_specifications/RV.BH.STR.ALUM.ALUM.12.pdf

 here is what I found about the removal tool and the oversize rivets:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNq7EEAvvlA  Video of using the Rivet removal tool

http://www.cherryaerospace.com/product/blindrivets Mention of 1/64” oversize rivets


https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/rivets/what-blind-rivet-sizes-are-available/:  Mention of 9/32” rivets but I did not follow up.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220





Compensating for Additional Weight of Solar Installation

Mark Isaac
 

Hello All,

After adding an Atlantic Towers arch and two solar panels, our stern sits below the current waterline. The shipping weight on the arch was #190 (it was crated...perhaps the weight of the arch itself is #140) and the panels (2) weigh #40 each.  We carry 300 feet of G4 chain (#450), a #88 primary anchor, and a 29 pound secondary anchor with 15 feet of chain all on the bow or in the forward lockers.  Our #100 dinghy is stored on the foredeck and our #100 outboard on the stern rail or in the stern locker.

Aside from moving books and canned goods to the forward cabin, I think I have managed the weight distribution as best as I can.

My question to the group:  Where should I go from here?  Leave it alone and change the waterline?  Add more chain?  Move the books and canned goods forward?

My question to those that have gone before me with the solar installation:  What did you do to compensate for the additional weight on the stern?  Did things turn out well as far as balance and sailing characteristics?

I will try to upload a couple of photos to show the degree of the issue at the waterline.  (The second outboard in the photos has been removed)

Mark
Lulu SM#391
Cape Canaveral, FL



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo TMD22A specs

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Pat,

The specs were for the 22 P which I had, not the 22 A which you have, but they should be pretty closed.

Personally I was motoring at 1600 to 1800 rpm which is way too low and I don’t recommend that as it will clog the turbo and exhaust elbow, etc, but that was enough to propulse the vessel at 5 kt at 1600 rpm and 6 kt at 1800 in calm sea.

It would only be speculation on my side… I heard: over prop, vessel too heavy, etc.
I think only Olivier can for sure tell us more in detail about that.

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 5/8/18, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo TMD22A specs
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 8, 2018, 7:27 AM


 









Alexandre, It looks like at 3000 rpm I am only
getting to 67 hp. and they are correct that it is rated at
4500 rpms. If you don't get higher that 2200 rpm at full
throttle it seems there would be a problem  with the
pitch. 
Thanks,

Pat SM#123






-----Original
Message-----

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tue, May 8, 2018 8:06 am

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo TMD22A specs








 













Hello Pat,





Here are the specs for the 22 P which I had.


http://www.nikimat.com/tmd22p.pdf





Not exceeding 2200 rpm is a common issue among Volvo
equipped SM owners even with rebuilt folding prop, clean
hull, etc. was my case as well, so 2900 seems good to me.



I am sure you read about Kent repitching his prop, etc.





Sincerely, Alexandre





--------------------------------------------


On Tue, 5/8/18, sailw32@aol.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:





Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo TMD22A specs


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com


Date: Tuesday, May 8, 2018, 7:01 AM








 





























I have been given a quote from


Flexofold and they described the Volvo TMD22a as 78 hp.
at


4500 rpm. I can not find the specs anywhere on the
internet


. Can anyone tell me where I can find them. If it
correct


than I never get near 78hp. as I never get beyond 2900
rpm.


I presently have a fixed prop that came with the
boat,being


a1994 my keel was not modified to accept the Autoprop.
They


also stated my gear reduction ratio as 1:2,74 , does
that


sound right , I could not find it on the label on the


transmission ? My fixed prop is 21x16 -55 LH . and they
are


recommending a 20x12- 3R I don't know what the 55 or
3


stand for ? There recommendation seems like quite a


departure from my fixed prop in regards to size/pitch .


Maybe that is comparing apples and


oranges.Thanks,Pat


SM#123

19641 - 19660 of 59104