Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain

Vicente Pereda Hernández <VPEREDA@...>
 

Hallo Jose Luis.
My name is Vicente Pereda, I have been long time without get into
the web and a I forgot my account name and my password how can I get
it back.
Regards from Palma
VICENTE

El 28/07/2008, a las 16:17, Jose_Luis Isasi escribió:

Hi Richard,

Glad to know you are in Spain. I live in Madrid although my boat is
berthed at Castellon (near Valencia). Drop me an email if you need
something, I´ll see to help.

Regards
Jose_Luis

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard Piller
<richard03801@...> wrote:

the standard chain for 53 footers is 10 mm or 3&#92;8ths dia, that is
what they come with. For world cruising you´ll need 100 m-yards 300
feet.
good luck Richard on Challenge in Spain

--- On Fri, 6/20/08, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

From: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 12:00 PM






Phil,

We use 5/16" "high test" chain which is appropriately rated. 5/16"
is
about 8mm. Regular 8mm chain would not be adequate.

Keep in mind that you will need a different gypsy for your windlass
so
be sure to check with the windlass manufacturer before you buy your
new chain.

Enjoy the new boat!

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, phil.berghmans
<no_reply@ .>
wrote:

hello everyone,

i've just bougth a amel santorin 1994 in the Med.We are planning
to
leave the med april/ may next year.Through the red sea or via
Gibralter Atlantic we don't know yet.

We had a survey done wich was overall quite positive (she's a
clean boat
wich didn't cruise that much)Previous owner kept her in a
permenent
mooring in a marina and did some daysailing i presume.

The surveyor had 2 remarks about the rigging being 14 years old
and
better should be changed allthough it doesn't show any signs off
teare
and weare?Does anyone have any advise or experiance with this and
what
this would cost?

Second there is an 8mm galvenised anchorchain with a 20 kg cqr
anchor
wich i am planning to replase by a 30kg type bugel,spade or rocna
anchor.The surveyor said the 8mm chain is to ligth for a 14m boat
off
about 11 or 12 ton loaded and should be changed by a 10 mm chain?
Does anyone have any experience or advice on this?

I thank you and glad to join the club!

phil from "2 miles ahead"

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi Richard,

Glad to know you are in Spain. I live in Madrid although my boat is
berthed at Castellon (near Valencia). Drop me an email if you need
something, I´ll see to help.

Regards
Jose_Luis


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard Piller
<richard03801@...> wrote:

the standard chain for 53 footers is 10 mm or 3&#92;8ths dia,  that is
what they come with.  For world cruising you´ll need 100 m-yards 300
feet.
good luck Richard on Challenge in Spain

--- On Fri, 6/20/08, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

From: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 12:00 PM






Phil,

We use 5/16" "high test" chain which is appropriately rated. 5/16"
is
about 8mm. Regular 8mm chain would not be adequate.

Keep in mind that you will need a different gypsy for your windlass
so
be sure to check with the windlass manufacturer before you buy your
new chain.

Enjoy the new boat!

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, phil.berghmans
<no_reply@ .>
wrote:

hello everyone,

i've just bougth a amel santorin 1994 in the Med.We are planning
to
leave the med april/ may next year.Through the red sea or via
Gibralter Atlantic we don't know yet.

We had a survey done wich was overall quite positive (she's a
clean boat
wich didn't cruise that much)Previous owner kept her in a
permenent
mooring in a marina and did some daysailing i presume.

The surveyor had 2 remarks about the rigging being 14 years old
and
better should be changed allthough it doesn't show any signs off
teare
and weare?Does anyone have any advise or experiance with this and
what
this would cost?

Second there is an 8mm galvenised anchorchain with a 20 kg cqr
anchor
wich i am planning to replase by a 30kg type bugel,spade or rocna
anchor.The surveyor said the 8mm chain is to ligth for a 14m boat
off
about 11 or 12 ton loaded and should be changed by a 10 mm chain?
Does anyone have any experience or advice on this?

I thank you and glad to join the club!

phil from "2 miles ahead"



















[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Richard: Glad to see that you made it to Spain. Drop me an email and fill me in on your
passage from Antigua to Spain.
Gary


Chain counter

jorge.zlatar <jorge.zlatar@...>
 

Greetings to all.

I have problems with the anchor chain counter. Is there any information
given by any member before?.The light in the censor responds on every
turn but the display is always in 0.
Thanks in advance.
Jorge
SMM 195.Excalibur


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bilge noise forward head

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Dave, Sounds like a shortage of air. Have you checked to see that the 220v extractor fan is still working? This helps to pull air in through the engine air vent.
Cheers, Ian and Judy Pen Azen SM302

http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/101719649/direct/01/


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

the standard chain for 53 footers is 10 mm or 3&#92;8ths dia,  that is what they come with.  For world cruising you´ll need 100 m-yards 300 feet.
good luck Richard on Challenge in Spain

--- On Fri, 6/20/08, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: amel santorin rigging ,anchorchain
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 12:00 PM






Phil,

We use 5/16" "high test" chain which is appropriately rated. 5/16" is
about 8mm. Regular 8mm chain would not be adequate.

Keep in mind that you will need a different gypsy for your windlass so
be sure to check with the windlass manufacturer before you buy your
new chain.

Enjoy the new boat!

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, phil.berghmans <no_reply@.. .>
wrote:

hello everyone,

i've just bougth a amel santorin 1994 in the Med.We are planning to
leave the med april/ may next year.Through the red sea or via
Gibralter Atlantic we don't know yet.

We had a survey done wich was overall quite positive (she's a clean boat
wich didn't cruise that much)Previous owner kept her in a permenent
mooring in a marina and did some daysailing i presume.

The surveyor had 2 remarks about the rigging being 14 years old and
better should be changed allthough it doesn't show any signs off teare
and weare?Does anyone have any advise or experiance with this and what
this would cost?

Second there is an 8mm galvenised anchorchain with a 20 kg cqr anchor
wich i am planning to replase by a 30kg type bugel,spade or rocna
anchor.The surveyor said the 8mm chain is to ligth for a 14m boat off
about 11 or 12 ton loaded and should be changed by a 10 mm chain?
Does anyone have any experience or advice on this?

I thank you and glad to join the club!

phil from "2 miles ahead"

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Trinidad-A/C Units

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

we took care of this problem by using a dehumidifier it took over a gallon a day out of the boat.  If you take the drip pan out and let the water fall to the head floor you get rid of the water and the boat stay dry.
Richard and Joan on Challenge in Spain

--- On Sat, 6/21/08, Naegels Patrick <naegels@online.be> wrote:

From: Naegels Patrick <naegels@online.be>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Trinidad-A/C Units
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 21, 2008, 2:33 AM






Hi Gary,

I invite you to hire an air conditionning system during wintering.
Chaguaramas is particularly wet. Moreover, you have to consider a
weekly deck cleaning to bird's "gifts" which are several and very
marking on GRP.

Patrick - Caramel - SM2000#329


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: older Maramu - plumbing fixtures

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi to all we have replaced the water pump in SM 209 with a new Jabsco on demand system.  We removed the expansion tank that works find.  For the showers we bought from Defender 2 single lever valves and just used the valve itself  that stoped the leak and we get good pressure.
Good luck.  Challenge Richard and Joan in Spain sm209

--- On Tue, 7/1/08, eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: older Maramu - plumbing fixtures
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, July 1, 2008, 8:32 PM






Hi would you please explain exactly where your pressure regulator was
located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of billklein48
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: older Maramu - plumbing fixtures

The bath faucet/showers can be replaced with kitchen sprayers that
one may get at Home Depot or such. They usually can be had with the
flex hose. I have to look at my kitchen faucet, but I think the
rubber is a standard rubber grommet that one could find at a a good
auto supply.
Another useful and interesting fact is that if you ever replace the
water supply pump for domestic water, and the pump is of the modern
self regulating kind, you should remove the old pressure regulator
probably located under the rear area of the lazarette under the floor
boards. My pressure regulator froze up after winter layup and It
caused me a little grief after I replaced the water pump and still
had no water pressure. After a little detective work I found the
regulator that I was previously unaware of. Then after removing the
regulator had plenty of water for a brisk shower!!
----Bill Klein SV Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com, "Dave_Benjamin"
<dave_benjamin@ ...> wrote:

Our lovely old Maramu has the original plumbing fixtures in the
heads
and galley sink. I need to find a new rubber piece for where the
pipe
penetrates the sink. Also I've got some leaks in one of the
extendable
faucet/showerhead fittings. Will I be able to find replacement parts
in a plumbing supply place in the US or are these a bit trickier?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bilge noise forward head

edmund_steele
 

Dave,
The bilge drains from the forward head directly to the sump in the engine room. Depending upon the flow of the pipe, I guess you have a low spot that fills with fluid. When you run either the generator or the engine, the engine compartment extractor fan turns on and slightly lowers the air pressure in the compartment, producing the gurgling noise your guests have complained of. When you run the engine, then the boat is moving and rocking and your guests would not hear anything over the noise of transit.

You can try: 1) telling your guests to close the doors to the forward cabin and quit complaining. 2) temporarily close off the forward bilge drain with the bilge shutoff in the forward floor locker. 3) look carefully at this exposed drain pipe inside the floor lockers and see if you can find the low spot. I would recommend deepening it if possible to make the fluid trap bigger. If you don't do this, you may get the smells of a fermenting sump back up this pipe to the forward head. If you dump Clorox into the sump to kill this smell, you risk acing the bilge pump - either temporarily or permanently.

I would vote for option 1 and make sure YOU sleep in the stern cabin.

Ed
S/V DoodleBug SM#331


bilge noise forward head

drdavegoodman
 

Greetings all.
I have a 1998 Amel Supermaramu #230. Guests who have stayed with me
have noticed a very annoying noise problem in the forward head area.
I wonder if anyone has dealt with this:
When the generator is running, there is a noise that can be heard in
the bilge piping at the forward head. The noise is intermittent, and
sounds like air pockets intermittently developing in the bilg piping.
In trouble shooting this noise, I have been able to stop the noise
by: 1. turning off the generator, or 2. leaving the generator run
but opening up the engine compartment ever so slightly. This all
seems very mistifying to me. Any ideas?
Dave
S/V Bel Ami


Re: Corrosion in the Seawater Manifold

Naegels Patrick <naegels@...>
 

Hi everybbody,

In know the same problem for almost 5 years (Caramel SM2000 #329 May
2001). I dedided to replace the manifold this year and asked Amel to
build a new one.

Take care, because there are several models, with differents pipes
diameters. I get a wrong model, but Amel changed it fast

All the best

Patrick Naegels

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

William,

I had the exact same problem in the exact same place. It must be
some stray
AC coming from the pump. However, I am hesitant on grounding the
pump. That
would put the stray AC in the whole system. I had a new manifold
built out
of stainless steel. In retrospect, I should have the welder make it
with a
spare port for a pencil Zinc.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
williammelbourne
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 4:44 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Corrosion in the Seawater Manifold



I have a general question about corrosion in the seawater manifold.
In May this year the seawater intake manifold on our Super Maramu
2000 (7+
years
since new, 5 years at sea) developed a leak. The leak occurred at
the "tee"
junction
between the main manifold and the smaller pipe that connects to the
hose
leading to the
A/C pump. I removed the manifold, and I found serious corrosion
inside of
that junction (I
presume from electrolysis). The corrosion appeared to follow the
original
solder band at
the junction. However, the corrosion only occurred at the A/C
junction, none
was evident
in any of the other four junctions for the two toilets, the anchor
wash and
the desalinator.
I repaired the manifold by soldering a slightly oversized short
copper
sleeve over the
original A/C pipe. The sleeve fits against the main manifold but it
is short
enough to leave
enough room to reconnect the A/C hose onto the original A/C pipe,
which was
in good
shape at its downstream end. It seems to work OK, but I worry about
the
future.
My question is: Why did this corrosion happen? The manifold has
always been
well-
bonded, exactly the way that Chantiers Amel rigged it originally.
Our
grounding strap in
the bilge appears to be intact. I haven't done any stray current
search yet,
but I will after
hurricane season. It is true that the A/C line gets the most use (a
factor
of at least 10
more than the others), and perhaps here is a clue about the cause.
Maybe after 5 years in saltwater, I'm expecting too much from
copper. But
the contrast
between the lack of corrosion everywhere inside the manifold other
than at
the A/C
junction is at least suspicious. The inside of the A/C junction
looked like
Swiss cheese in
miniature, whereas the rest of the manifold looked corrosion-free.
I also
note that other
Amels of similar vintage have developed this same leak in the same
area of
the manifold.
I have already searched through the Amelyachtowners forum, in
particular,
Messages
No. 3814, 3813, 3811, 3810, 3809, 3782, 3781, 3780, 3779, 3778, for
possible
clues to
this corrosion problem. Although these messages are definitely
informative,
I couldn't
find a definite answer to my question.
Any comments? Thanks!
William Melbourne
S/V THIRD WISH
SMM306





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Eric Freedman
 

Gary,

got it. Thanks.

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 12:53 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Sorry Eric.

Let me try again. Please see the photo labeled Outhaul Drive Shaft #2 in the
SM Outhaul
Service Folder in the photos section. The shaft is shown in the removed
condition. When
assembled, the shaft is down thru the center of the gear assembly. Now
imagine that you
are trying to PUSH the shaft out of the gear assembly. If you place the
fingers of both your
hands on the top cover of the gear assembly (equivalent to the fingers of
the puller) and
use both your thumbs to push the shaft out of the gear assembly (equivalent
to the
threaded screw of the puller) you have an idea of what is accomplished.
Because the
horizontal reach of the puller fingers couldn't reach past the edges of the
mounting
bracket to engage the top of the gearbox cover, a piece of metal was placed
across the top
of the gearbox cover which bore on the cover while the fingers engaged the
cross piece.
I wish I had a picture because a picture would be worth a million words.
Let me know how we are doing in this explanation.

Gary

the the top of the . your --- In amelyachtowners@
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, eric
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

Sorry I don't quite get it.

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller
bolt
pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the
puller
bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a
short
bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and
bolt
was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of
metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the
bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft
from
below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense.
In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are
pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Corrosion in the Seawater Manifold

Eric Freedman
 

William,

I had the exact same problem in the exact same place. It must be some stray
AC coming from the pump. However, I am hesitant on grounding the pump. That
would put the stray AC in the whole system. I had a new manifold built out
of stainless steel. In retrospect, I should have the welder make it with a
spare port for a pencil Zinc.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of williammelbourne
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 4:44 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Corrosion in the Seawater Manifold



I have a general question about corrosion in the seawater manifold.
In May this year the seawater intake manifold on our Super Maramu 2000 (7+
years
since new, 5 years at sea) developed a leak. The leak occurred at the "tee"
junction
between the main manifold and the smaller pipe that connects to the hose
leading to the
A/C pump. I removed the manifold, and I found serious corrosion inside of
that junction (I
presume from electrolysis). The corrosion appeared to follow the original
solder band at
the junction. However, the corrosion only occurred at the A/C junction, none
was evident
in any of the other four junctions for the two toilets, the anchor wash and
the desalinator.
I repaired the manifold by soldering a slightly oversized short copper
sleeve over the
original A/C pipe. The sleeve fits against the main manifold but it is short
enough to leave
enough room to reconnect the A/C hose onto the original A/C pipe, which was
in good
shape at its downstream end. It seems to work OK, but I worry about the
future.
My question is: Why did this corrosion happen? The manifold has always been
well-
bonded, exactly the way that Chantiers Amel rigged it originally. Our
grounding strap in
the bilge appears to be intact. I haven't done any stray current search yet,
but I will after
hurricane season. It is true that the A/C line gets the most use (a factor
of at least 10
more than the others), and perhaps here is a clue about the cause.
Maybe after 5 years in saltwater, I'm expecting too much from copper. But
the contrast
between the lack of corrosion everywhere inside the manifold other than at
the A/C
junction is at least suspicious. The inside of the A/C junction looked like
Swiss cheese in
miniature, whereas the rest of the manifold looked corrosion-free. I also
note that other
Amels of similar vintage have developed this same leak in the same area of
the manifold.
I have already searched through the Amelyachtowners forum, in particular,
Messages
No. 3814, 3813, 3811, 3810, 3809, 3782, 3781, 3780, 3779, 3778, for possible
clues to
this corrosion problem. Although these messages are definitely informative,
I couldn't
find a definite answer to my question.
Any comments? Thanks!
William Melbourne
S/V THIRD WISH
SMM306


Corrosion in the Seawater Manifold

williammelbourne <melbourne@...>
 

I have a general question about corrosion in the seawater manifold.
In May this year the seawater intake manifold on our Super Maramu 2000 (7+ years
since new, 5 years at sea) developed a leak. The leak occurred at the "tee" junction
between the main manifold and the smaller pipe that connects to the hose leading to the
A/C pump. I removed the manifold, and I found serious corrosion inside of that junction (I
presume from electrolysis). The corrosion appeared to follow the original solder band at
the junction. However, the corrosion only occurred at the A/C junction, none was evident
in any of the other four junctions for the two toilets, the anchor wash and the desalinator.
I repaired the manifold by soldering a slightly oversized short copper sleeve over the
original A/C pipe. The sleeve fits against the main manifold but it is short enough to leave
enough room to reconnect the A/C hose onto the original A/C pipe, which was in good
shape at its downstream end. It seems to work OK, but I worry about the future.
My question is: Why did this corrosion happen? The manifold has always been well-
bonded, exactly the way that Chantiers Amel rigged it originally. Our grounding strap in
the bilge appears to be intact. I haven't done any stray current search yet, but I will after
hurricane season. It is true that the A/C line gets the most use (a factor of at least 10
more than the others), and perhaps here is a clue about the cause.
Maybe after 5 years in saltwater, I'm expecting too much from copper. But the contrast
between the lack of corrosion everywhere inside the manifold other than at the A/C
junction is at least suspicious. The inside of the A/C junction looked like Swiss cheese in
miniature, whereas the rest of the manifold looked corrosion-free. I also note that other
Amels of similar vintage have developed this same leak in the same area of the manifold.
I have already searched through the Amelyachtowners forum, in particular, Messages
No. 3814, 3813, 3811, 3810, 3809, 3782, 3781, 3780, 3779, 3778, for possible clues to
this corrosion problem. Although these messages are definitely informative, I couldn't
find a definite answer to my question.
Any comments? Thanks!
William Melbourne
S/V THIRD WISH
SMM306


Standing Rigging

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

I recently had my rigging checked on Minaxi SM6. The boatyard suggested
that the rig was too tight, in fact they said it was tighter than any
they have seen on similar size boats. Before gong ahead with the
suggestion of de-tunig the rig, does anyone have any insight as to how
tigt an Amel rig should be?

Bob
Minaxi SM6


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Sorry Eric.

Let me try again. Please see the photo labeled Outhaul Drive Shaft #2 in the SM Outhaul
Service Folder in the photos section. The shaft is shown in the removed condition. When
assembled, the shaft is down thru the center of the gear assembly. Now imagine that you
are trying to PUSH the shaft out of the gear assembly. If you place the fingers of both your
hands on the top cover of the gear assembly (equivalent to the fingers of the puller) and
use both your thumbs to push the shaft out of the gear assembly (equivalent to the
threaded screw of the puller) you have an idea of what is accomplished. Because the
horizontal reach of the puller fingers couldn't reach past the edges of the mounting
bracket to engage the top of the gearbox cover, a piece of metal was placed across the top
of the gearbox cover which bore on the cover while the fingers engaged the cross piece.
I wish I had a picture because a picture would be worth a million words.
Let me know how we are doing in this explanation.

Gary

the the top of the . your --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric
<kimberlite@...> wrote:


Gary,

Sorry I don't quite get it.

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt
pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller
bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short
bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt
was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of
metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the
bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from
below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense.
In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are
pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Eric Freedman
 

Gary,

Sorry I don't quite get it.

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt
pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller
bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short
bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt
was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of
metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the
bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from
below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense.
In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are
pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Jorge:

I have not removed the motor yet. I pulled the parts off the boom just as we were
preparing to put the boat on the hard for the hurricane season. I stowed the
disassembled parts below and left the boat. I won't get back to finish the disassembly
until December. I was told by the same machinist that aided in the removal that the
motor just dismounts when the four mounting bolts are released and the motor has a
keyway that insets into the shaft of the steel drive worm gear. I can't say for sure if that is
correct or not. I do know from Olivier Beaute at Amel that there is a thrust bearing on the
end of the drive worm gear (under the small cover on the side of the gearbox). That tidbit
of information has nothing to do with your question, I just pass it along because it came
from Olivier at Amel. It sure would be nice to have an exploded parts diagram for this
gearbox and motor. I am going to contact Olivier this coming week to see if he can
provide one, if so I will post it here.

Regards,
Gary

Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the motor shaft after
I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: Main sail furling gear box

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Eric: The link that I posted shows the puller with the jaws and puller bolt pointed downward.
In the case of the shaft on the outhaul this was inverted so that the puller bolt (in the center
of the puller) was impacting on the shaft from the bottom. He place a short bolt in the
threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft (where the seal cover cup and bolt was) to protect
the shaft and threads. The jaws of the puller were placed on a piece of metal that passed
across the top of the gearbox in the window that is formed between the bottom of the boom
and the top of the mounting bracket. Thus the pressure was on the shaft from below and
the jaws were gripping on the top of the gearbox. I hope that makes sense. In this case it
wasn't really a puller but rather a pusher or on the other hand you are pulling the gearbox off
the shaft of the winch. I hope that helps.

Gary

Eric Asked:

" to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Udo <udo@...>
 

I put the whole part into a hydraulic press and with a pin smaller than
the shaft pushed it out. It did take quite some force but it came out
clean.



Udo



SM #50 Cloud Seven



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box



Gary,

to what did the machinist attach the straight jaw puller ?

thanks

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box

Hi Gary
Thanks for your prompt response..
One more question... Is there any trick in pulling the gear box from the
motor shaft after I take the retainer?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

--- On Thu, 7/17/08, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com> wrote:
From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
s.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main sail furling gear box
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 12:41 PM

Hi Jorge:

I have recently removed the outhaul gearbox from the boom. I have posted
some pictures

of the gearbox in the photos section. This was a tough job but the boom
did
not need to

be removed. Look at the photos I have posted for parts identification in
the
photos

section of this web site. You need to remove the gearbox in order to
service
it but also you

have to remove it to lubricate the Anderson winch bearings.

To remove the gearbox:

1. Remove the bolt that holds the arm on the top of the Anderson winch.
This
releases

the drive shaft from the winch capstan.

2. Next remove the bolt on the bottom center of the gear box. This bolt
is
threaded into

the drive shaft and has has a small cup like cover that covers the lower
bearing seal.

3. Finally drive the shaft upward and out of the gear box and winch.
This is
the hard part.

Some on this site have had luck threading a 4 inch long non-stainless
steel
metric bolt

into the shaft where this lower bolt was just removed and pounding on
the
bolt to drive

the shaft upward. I did this, 2 hours of pounding with a two pound
sledge
hammer, until I

thought I would destroy the boom due to excess fatigue failure of the
aluminum bracket

that holds the gear box. The shaft didn't move even a fraction of a
centimeter (this even

after I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for 24 hours). I next
consulted
a local machine

shop in Antigua Jolly Harbor and they used a straight jaw puller similar
to
this (

http://www.usatools inc.com/index. asp?PageAction= VIEWPROD&
ProdID=17071 )
note: if

this link doesn't work just use google and search for straight jaw
puller,
and they had the

shaft out within 15 minutes. The shaft runs up through the gearbox and
winch
in this

order (from bottom to top) lower seal, lower bearing, driven worm gear
(brass), upper

bearing, upper seal, Anderson winch bearings, Anderson winch head. There
was
no

corrosion holding my shaft in place, just lots of grease and
encrustations.
I intend to

purchase a straight jaw puller and remove my shaft every year or two for
lubrication.

Once the shaft is removed the gearbox can be removed from the boom by
removing the

four small mounting bolts that hold the box in place to the boom. The
gearbox covers do

not have any seals, just a press fit and perhaps a little sealant. Open
it
up both top and

bottom by gently inserting a broad blade putty knife into the parting
seams
and gently

working the covers off so as not to mar the parting surfaces. This will
give
access to the

internal parts. My original lubricant inside the gearbox was in good
condition after 7

years and 12,000 sea miles. My reason for removing the gearbox was to do
routine

preventative maintenance and to repaint the failed paint on the box. The
gearbox is cast

ferrous metal (not aluminum) and I suspect had poor quality paint. If
Amel
had painted it I

don't think it would have failed. My brass driven worm gear was worn and
needed to be

replaced. Olivier Beaute of Amel after sales has the brass gear
available
from the original

vendor as a special order item for 180 euros excluding VAT and a
complete
new gear box

for 541 euros exc VAT. Removal of the gearbox on the main sail furling I
believe will be

easier. I hope this helps.

Gary Silver SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@
...>
wrote:

Dear Members
I am considering replacing the two gear boxes of the main sail furling
system on a SM-

97 model. Does any body have any tips on this job? Amel told me that I
have
to take the

boom down. Are there any other alternatives?

Thanks in advance
Jorge
SM 195