Date   

Re: Volvo D3-110 won't start - instruments won't even light up?

ESTELLER
 

Hi Bill AND SCOTT. I do not know how to use the site amelyachtowners@...
that's why I'm sending you this message regarding SCOTT's problem
1- At CORFU GOUVIA there is an excellent VOLVO agent who is very competent and very reasonably priced. I make him do my big services on my D3 110 when I go to Gouvia
2-Two years ago my engine stopped in the open Ionian Sea, and he could not restart it. A few hours before I had a warning message: "fuel service needed" on the EVC, but I did not do anything.
I changed the fuel filter and the engine restarted, while like that of SCOTT he did not want to restart (the starter was not running either)
Maybe what I tell you might be useful to SCOTT
Regards José AMEL 54 ORION


Re: Heat Exchanger

John Clark
 

Hi Pat, I just saw a picture of a different version of the TAMD22, is this the setup you have?  My engine is the other photo.  

    John
SV Annie SM37
USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Pump out of black water

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Kent,

The simplest way I just open pumpout cove and look.

Vladimir
SM 345 LIFE IS GOOD


On Tue, Jan 23, 2018, 08:50 karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,
I'm also looking for a way to monitor holding tank levels. There are several monitors that use capacitance sensors that connect to the outside of the tank. Here's an example:

https://tankedge.com/products.html

Has anyone tried these?

Does anyone know the thickness of the tank walls?
Are they solid fiberglass?

Here's another suggestion that involves screws through the walls:
"I put small stainless steel self-tappers through the side at strategic levels and then used the conductivity of the contents to feed a small amount of current to transistors which in turn switched on LEDs."

Any other ideas?

Thanks for any ideas.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Ft Lauderdale, FL USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I was just on the boat and forgot to look at the manual, I  got involved trying to get the thermostat off , nuts frozen ,Corrosion X on the job. Your attachment did not come through. I think the end caps are original , the question is how do they seal , only with the pressure of the SS. clamps . Orings were mentioned, I don't have any, and don't know where they would be placed if I had them. Fortunately, its only a five minute commute from my house to my boat, I will run back out and have a look at the manual ,although it is a very poor manual,little detail. Thanks for confirming it is a Perkins 4-108 
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 10:19 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
  check the service manual attached below.  It has a blowup diagram of the cooling system for the various versions of the Volvo "####22#".  

 My understanding is that the "22" is based on the Perkins 4-108.  

My 1990 SM was repowered in 2002 with a Volvo TAMD22a and other than the water hoses, the heat exchanger housing is all metal.  

If you have eliminated the usual suspects: impeller, sea strainer, leaky hoses and check valves then perhaps the end caps, if they are not standard, could be the culprit.  It certainly sounds wrong that the silicone covers water passages, and that a rubber boot separates coolant and sea water.

Can you send a photo?  

                                Regards,  John



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
  check the service manual attached below.  It has a blowup diagram of the cooling system for the various versions of the Volvo "####22#".  

 My understanding is that the "22" is based on the Perkins 4-108.  

My 1990 SM was repowered in 2002 with a Volvo TAMD22a and other than the water hoses, the heat exchanger housing is all metal.  

If you have eliminated the usual suspects: impeller, sea strainer, leaky hoses and check valves then perhaps the end caps, if they are not standard, could be the culprit.  It certainly sounds wrong that the silicone covers water passages, and that a rubber boot separates coolant and sea water.

Can you send a photo?  

                                Regards,  John



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

greatketch@...
 

Thanks to all who answered!

We are not in dire need of engine replacement, but after two circumnavigation and just over 8000 hours we are entering that range where she might last many more years, but if she died in 6 months nobody would think it premature either.  

Bill Kinney
SM 160, Harmonie
Solomon’s Is, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

Patrick McAneny
 

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

John Clark
 

Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower questions

karkauai
 

I’ll put it on my list Bob.  Prolly won’t happen for a couple months unless someone needs them right away.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Jun 2, 2018, at 1:43 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,


It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

At 1/4" NPT and BSP threads are only 1 TPI (threads per inch) different so its very difficult to tell what you have unless you have an accurate thread gauge. 
The angles of the threads are also different, one is 55 and the other 60 degrees 
Also both NPT and BSP come in straight and tapered threads and the tapers are not the same.
With some force you can make a BSP male fit an NPT female, but how can you ensure it will be gas tight?
NPT is only really common in the US.
BSP is common in France and the UK...despite France being metric ... French plumbing is mysterious !
It is more than likely that the connectors on the boat are BSP.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

Alan Leslie
 

I would appreciate the information also Kent, as I am sure everyone would.
Look forward to your post !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Repower questions

rossirossix4
 

Hi Kent,

It would be good to get those part numbers and sources posted.  I've wondered about them in case we need to replace a temp or oil pressure sensor.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Monastir, Tunisia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off

 

Mark,

You are correct, I  wss wrong. I should have looked at my book. It is 1/4" pipe. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 17:48 mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat/Bill,


FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas shut off [1 Attachment]

mfmcgovern@...
 

Pat/Bill,

FYI, the Burkert gas solenoid on my SM has G1/4 threads.  The best I can tell, G1/4 is the same as 1/4 British Standard Pipe (1/4 BSP).  It appears that Burkert solenoids sold in the US market come standard with NPT threads and those sold in the rest of the world have G (BSP) threads.  

Since it appears that your gas solenoid was added by an owner and not by Amel, it really could be anything.  If there is a part number on the solenoid you might be able to Google it and find out.  In any case, if possible you probably should physically check it yourself to see what the threads are if you want to buy a "drop-in" replacement solenoid. 

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Bill,

two more things. I contacted Amel for advice and they told me not to go for the higher hp 110 hp motor as the c drive was not designed for that power and it would fail. Later models had a beefed up c drive that could handle the extra power and since at 160 you are earlier than our 299 I would expect the same to apply to you. I made the fit of the new engine to the existing Hurth gearbox a condition of the purchase, ie if it didn't fit they supplied the new gearbox to me at no cost. That made them sweat, a bit different from an off hand "oh yes it should fit". In the event it was no issue, a perfect fit. And yes, there is no smoke.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 

Ocean Pearl

On 02 June 2018 at 03:57 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

A few questions for those of you who have repowered a Super Maramu—especially those who swapped out a Volvo TMD22.

What new engine did you use?
Did you use the same Hurth 250 transmission?
Are you happy with the new installation?
Where there any serious issues or complications?
Approximate cost?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Central Chesapeake Bay, USA


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo D3-110 won't start - instruments won't even light up?

 

Scott,

Unfortunately, you will need a Volvo certified mechanic with the latest Volvo software on his laptop.

Hopefully it is not a dead Volvo computer, or two.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 12:36 PM, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

After a nice short day sail today, we were approaching Katakolo, Greece and I started the Volvo D3-110 (rev c) on my A54 and after a few minutes at idle, engaged into forward gear and about 30 seconds later, the motor died.


I tried to start it again but neither the EVC System Tachometer nor the Alarm Display lit up. So effectively the motor is not responding at all to the ignition key. Both of the 20 amp fuses on the motor are intact.


The starting battery is showing 12.9v and the genset, which I believe uses the same battery, started fine. 


Any ideas how I can start diagnosing this? 


Scott

SV Tengah

A54 #69

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions

amelforme
 

Hello Everyone. No one asked me but that never seems to stop me...

A. Dry major consideration when repowering is to be sure and get a diesel that has an isolated negative electrical system. Also called a full floating or a full earth return electrical system, it is essential to not to change to a power plant with a conventional grounding systems. Some companies have a “kit” they supply to convert the grounding to an isolated negative, while others supply new diesels with the isolated negative system built in.
If you put a conventional grounded diesel, you will corrupt the electrical system and suffer the attendant problems this will cause.

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Jun 1, 2018, at 2:17 PM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill,


I can answer all your questions in about two weeks time.  I am now 71 ( Judy is of course much younger) and hope to have at least ten more years afloat. You will have seen from past posts that we had an unhappy experience at the hands of the Volvo agent in Hyeres, leaving us with a large bill and an unhappy engine. We could persevere with our TMD but we want to go sailing rather than spending  time in marinas and money on mechanics so we have taken the plunge and as I write a new Volvo D2-75 is being installed in Piraeus by a guy whom I trust. He was originally trained by the Englishman who designed the TMD and when Volvo acquired the selling rights from Perkins he was sent to Sweden to show them how it worked.

 He was shocked by the work and cost carried out in Hyeres and encouraged me to complain to Volvo central from whom I hope to get some satisfaction.


The new engine is marginally smaller in size but with a 2.2 litre capacity ( 2 litre for the TMD) and 75hp at lower revs so NO SMOKE ! ( I am promised !). The exhaust is on the starboard side but the filters, to port , are more accessible. Rather than a marinised car engine ( TMD) it was built as a marine engine. Meets EU pollution regs.


 It does have a turbo, alas, but not the electronics that its bigger sister has, so you don't have to reach for a computer to fix it.  It comes with a choice of three gearboxes--I think the straight shaft exit one has been chosen.  The guy checked with Autoprop in the UK who  confirmed that it's a match. He has worked on Amels and I think he will do a good job.


 The engine comes with a standard instrument panel which is probably adequate, but as I like to have instruments showing engine temperature and 12v output I may fit the de luxe panel which has both of those plus oil pressure at an extra 300 euros or so. The total costs will be approaching 20,000 Euros.


It should do the trick. We will know in a couple of weeks time.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Piraeus

 


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 01 June 2018 15:57:26
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower questions
 
A few questions for those of you who have repowered a Super Maramu—especially those who swapped out a Volvo TMD22.

What new engine did you use?
Did you use the same Hurth 250 transmission?
Are you happy with the new installation?
Where there any serious issues or complications?
Approximate cost?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Central Chesapeake Bay, USA

------------------------------------
Posted by: greatketch@...
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside.All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through.On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Pat,

 

It sounds as though you are on the right track.

 

The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.

 

While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.

 

The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 

 

I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123

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