Date   

Cover for mechanical rudder indicator on Steering wheel hub

Steve Leeds
 

After nursing the old plastic cover for 25 years, the plastic cover on the mechanical rudder indicator on the steering wheel hub on our 1985 Sharki has finally disintegrated.  I know most owners with this situation have cut off the nylon indicator and covered up the opening as new autopilot displays show the rudder position.


However, we like the convenience of the old set up and ability to check the rudder position when the electronics are turned off.


Has any owner of an older boat found a satisfactory solution to this problem?


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: water squirting from engine vented loop

greatketch@...
 

Ryan, 

In Amel's installation the water coming out of the "bolt thing" IS the anti-syphon vent.  There was no additional vent at the top of the loop, that would be redundant.  

 All you need is one hole up near the top of the loop-somewhere-so air can get in when the engine stops.

Bill 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi Bill,

That is good news! Just so I'm certain I understand, the water coming out of this bolt thing is normal, and that is distinct from the vent at the top of the loop? I see no path for water from the top of the loop to get into the scupper.

Thanks,
Ryan



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: water squirting from engine vented loop

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Bill,

That is good news! Just so I'm certain I understand, the water coming out of this bolt thing is normal, and that is distinct from the vent at the top of the loop? I see no path for water from the top of the loop to get into the scupper.

Thanks,
Ryan


On Sun, Jun 3, 2018, 11:02 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,


Check nothing!  That is what it is supposed to do.  (Bet you are happy to hear THAT for a change?)

The fitting at the top of the water hose loop does have a small hole that drains as a syphon break into the scupper.  There is no check valve or other obstruction in the fitting, it is just a hole.  You only have to check something if you do NOT hear the water gurgling.  That might indicate a plug in the vent, and increase the risk of water draining into the engine.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD. USA


Sisila Sale

Siviero Attilio <attilio.siviero@...>
 

ref my previous post for Sisila sale, the brooker is Pier-André Jane, one of the most honest persons I met when I bought Sisila,
He as all shots of the boat



Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"



Sisila sale

Siviero Attilio <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Dear friends, 
for family reason I decided to sell Sisila, our beloved Santorin#84-93.
She  is in perfect general conditions, recent survey (for insurance request on the 25year old boat) in Leros Agmar marina boatyard.
Now Sisila is in Monfalcone, because I want to enjoy her before selling end of season.
Some of you know how I refitted Sisila, new sails Hydranet triradials, new rigging by ACMO, solar panels and windgen, new VHF Simrad RD90 with remote station in cockpit, chartplotter furuno gp7000,
forward looking sonar (the only additional hole we made in the hull) FM Radio with proper antenna, Television set with proper antenna, transponder AIS Digital Yacht (with proper antenna, no splitter)  connected to the chartplotter in order to see surroundig commercial vessels, HF Radio with radio modem to make emails thru the radio, navtex, meteoman, liferaft updated last year in Athens, Safety certificate updated in last February according to ITA regulation, and other things 
Reasonable request is 125k€, looking at the market (yachword.com)
If somebody of you is interested
A bit sadly


Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"



Re: water squirting from engine vented loop

greatketch@...
 

Ryan,

Check nothing!  That is what it is supposed to do.  (Bet you are happy to hear THAT for a change?)

The fitting at the top of the water hose loop does have a small hole that drains as a syphon break into the scupper.  There is no check valve or other obstruction in the fitting, it is just a hole.  You only have to check something if you do NOT hear the water gurgling.  That might indicate a plug in the vent, and increase the risk of water draining into the engine.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD. USA


water squirting from engine vented loop

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

When I started my engine (a TMD22) this morning, I heard the sound of water running down the cockpit scuppers.  The vented loop right under the engine room hatch discharges into the trough at the aft end of the cockpit, and apparently it has decided to start squirting water (photo attached).  At idle, it is a squirt every few seconds.  At 2000rpm, it's a steady stream.  The amount of water coming out the exhaust at the waterline looks normal, and the engine temperature also appears normal.  Without disassembly, I don't see any obvious sign of a valve in the vented loop, and the water isn't coming from what I presume is the vent at the top, it's coming through what I thought was the mounting bolt.  I seem to recall seeing a thread about this before, but I can't find it searching on the Yahoo group.  Even just learning the proper name for this thing would probably help.  What should I check out?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thruster Rusted Shut

Mark Erdos
 

Yay!

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 2:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Thruster Rusted Shut

 

 

Yes, Commander!

-Capt. Bode

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Alan

Thanks, and yes I do have a picture of your new paint job in relation to the exhaust outlet. That to me, is the absolute measure which can be used to work out the relative heights which people have raised their anti-foul paint to on different boats, hence my question.

I have no problem with that being under water, as it is already semi-submerged anyway on our boat anyway. The position of the paint line will make no difference to that.

Nice to see you are out in Fiji again this year. We have now done SE Asia, Maldives and North Indian Ocean and it is really nice to be in cooler weather, in the South Indian ocean, out of the equator zone after a full year of hot tropics!

Best regards

Colin
Amel SM #332, Rodrigues

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 2:11 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi again Colin....


Of course where you paint the water line makes no difference as to how the exhausts perform, they are still in the same place relative to the water.
I can tell you that i really enjoy not having to scrub that waterline aft !!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Alan Leslie
 

Hi again Colin....

Of course where you paint the water line makes no difference as to how the exhausts perform, they are still in the same place relative to the water.
I can tell you that i really enjoy not having to scrub that waterline aft !!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Colin,
We lifted the entire waterline up to the red stripe...i'm sure i sent you pics of this?
The exhaust issue is not really a problem if you think about it.
If you are motor sailing on Starboard tack, the exhausts will be under the water anyway.

We find it is great not having to scrub the waterline. The Onan exhaust splutters a bit when at anchor, but as a trade off, for us it works really well.....

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Malamu Bay, Beqa , Fiji


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Gary and all

Thank you for all the comments here. We have been watching this thread with interest as we too are tired of scrubbing the rear where the anti-foul coating is not high enough.

Please post some pics of the job in progress and completed, and in particular I would be interested to see a pic of the new lines at the engine/gen exhaust outlet after you have run the lazer line.

We will probably do something similar at our next haul out, either Cape Town or Grenada.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, SM#332.
Now in the beautiful Rodrigues, Indian Ocean.


On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:39 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Miles, Ian & Judy, and Bill:


Thanks for your input, it is valued.  I just got back to the boat yesterday and looked at the waterline issue with Ken Towne of Island Marine Inc here at Puerto Del Rey in Puerto Rico and measuring the existing water "marking" there is 9 inches of bottom paint above the waterline / watermark at the bow, tapering to 0 inches of anti-fouling above the water line aft.  We have decided to raise the antifouling by three inches aft and shoot a laser level along the side of the boat so it is a straight line from the existing 9 inches forward.  She still won't be level on her lines but she will be "more level" than before by a long shot. 

I think 3 inches of bottom paint showing at the stern will give me some leeway if I add a stern solar arch (about 200 lbs I believe, for either an Atlantic Arch or an Emek Marine Arch.

In case you are wondering I had previous place a lot of weight in the bow to try and level the boat but it head to pronounced "hobby horsing" in heavy seas. 

Thanks again all, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Fajardo Puerto Rico - Puerto Del Rey Marina Yard




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Bow Thruster Rusted Shut

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117
 

Yes, Commander!
-Capt. Bode


Re: Repower questions

greatketch@...
 

Dave,

Thanks for the reference. I have looked at--and dismissed--the Beta Marine engine. It is a good engine, and I know the West Coast distributer from my days in SF. As you say they are good guys.

The problem is that their 75HP engine is not turbocharged.  That in and of itself really appeals, for lots of reasons. BUT.... that means the engine weighs 400 or 500 pounds more that the turbo equivalents. 

That is just much more dead weight than I will consider adding to the boat. I'll live with the added complexity and maintenance of the turbo for a half inch of waterline sink!

I am in no rush, and this is not something that will happen quickly.  Lots of research yet to do. If I had to do it today, I would use a Volvo D2.  But, fortunately, I don't have to.  Just want to have all the pieces in place so I can move quickly if I end up needing to.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <dave_benjamin@...> wrote :

Bill, 
One of our west coast Amel sail clients repowered with a Beta Marine. He also considered a Yanmar. Beta was a much easier retrofit than the Yanmar would have been according to what he told me. And the staff at the Beta distributor was quite helpful. If you want to speak with him directly I can ask him if he is okay with me sharing his email address. 


Re: Repower questions

Miles
 

Yes,  it has an isolated ground.  Unfortunately, I didn’t know about the ground until after the engine was installed and then Volvo didn’t want to send the parts to me because their lawyers said not too.  Finally, a Volvo person send the list of every needed part to me.  I ordered the parts separately from Volvo and now I have an isolated engine.  Again, too late smart.

Regards,

Miles


Re: Repower questions

Dave_Benjamin
 

Bill, 
One of our west coast Amel sail clients repowered with a Beta Marine. He also considered a Yanmar. Beta was a much easier retrofit than the Yanmar would have been according to what he told me. And the staff at the Beta distributor was quite helpful. If you want to speak with him directly I can ask him if he is okay with me sharing his email address. 


Re: heat exchanger

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...>
Date: 03 June 2018 at 11:52
Subject: Re: heat exchanger

Hi Pat.

The clamps are quite adequate without sealant. The use of silicone in that sort of situation often leads to problems with surplus finishing where you don't want it. Likewise any gaskets on the engine. The use of gasket sealant must be either avoided or approached with care as over eager application can lead to some separating internally and clogging oilways/fuelways.

Having said that Pat our boats are some years apart and if your heat exchanger has rubber boots secured by hose clamps it is different to mine. However I had a Volvo in a previous boat and the heat exchanger had rubber boots at the ends and the hose clamps were fine but you do need to periodically check they are tight. 

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

On 02 June 2018 at 23:35 Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, I know you had a Volvo TMD22 , and want to see if you could tell me about the heat exchanger. The previous owner used silicone to seal the rubber caps to the ends. Is this normal or do you just rely on the clamps to seal the rubber boots? I have had a overheating issue for years and now wonder if bits of silicone may be clogging cooling passages. I want to reinstall it asap, I don't like having my boat on a mooring without an engine operational. It seems it would be easy to have a leak mixing fresh and salt water without knowing it with the way the exchanger is sealed relying on just s.s. clamps.
Thanks
Pat


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Heat Exchanger [2 Attachments]

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Again Pat. That second photo is the same set up from my previous boat. It works well.

Regards

Danny

On 03 June 2018 at 03:55 "john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hi Pat, I just saw a picture of a different version of the TAMD22, is this the setup you have?  My engine is the other photo.  


    John
SV Annie SM37
USVI

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Pat. I am chasing this thread from behind. The rubber boot you describe is exactly what I had on the Volvo in my previous boat and is a kosher system. Do not use silicone. Just check the clamps periodically to keep them tight.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 03 June 2018 at 00:59 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

John, I have no Orings , the rubber end caps have two different diameters ,the larger dia. clamps around the H/E housing and the smaller dia. part clamps around the insert. May be that I am missing parts and this is what the previous owner came up with. I have been looking online for a blown up diagram. Is the TMD22A a Perkins 4-108 ? I can find new end boots for it . The temperature increases with the rpm , at 2500 it got up to 215F, slow down and it decreases to 190 or so.

Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 2, 2018 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] included below]
Hi Pat,
    I attached the TAMD22 service manual, the cooling system starts on page 93.  I can tell you if you are blocking holes it will significantly reduce the heat removal ability of the HX.  I see in the manual that there appears to be o rings on the metal end caps.  This is how I would expect it to be.  

What kind of over heating issue do you experience?  It could be something unrelated to the HX like drawing air from a cracked SW hose(happened to me) or leaking anti siphon, leaking backflow preventer....

                                          Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37 
USVI

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, Reading your reply, I realized that I left out an important fact ,that my engine is a Volvo TMD22a . So my exchanger may be different from yours. I suspect it is, I see no where ,where a O ring would reside..All my small tubes were clear , what was partially block were two of the four larger holes in the bronze housing where antifreeze passes through..On my H/E there is two rubber boots on either end where the water enters and leaves from and they are secured with s.s.clamps. If they should leak ,and they are under pressure raw water could mix with the antifreeze.So if anyone with a TMD22a could tell me if there is Orings or silicone ,I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Pat
SM3123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Jun 1, 2018 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger

 
 
Hi Pat,
 
It sounds as though you are on the right track.
 
The ends should be sealed with a rubber o-ring. Depending on the engine type there are sometimes 2 o-rings. There should not be silicone. You should be able to look through the tubes and see nothing but air. Any obstruction is going to cause you grief especially near the ends as this is where the sea-water changes direction. If you look at the design of the HE, you will see the how the seawater changes direction two times before moving on.
 
While you are in there, also check the after-cooler, if you have a turbo charger. This can be another are where the copper tubes become blocked and foul the flow of sea-water.
 
The anti freeze is moved along the outside of the tubes by the engine’s fresh water pump. The sea water is moved by the sea-water pump impeller on the inside of the tubes. The anti-freeze is cooled as it makes contact with the other side of the copper tube.
 
Hope this helps you.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Heat Exchanger
 
 
I have had my heat exchanger off several times over the years ,and reinstalled it as the previous owner had and not questioned it ,until now. I have had an overheating issue for years and am resolved to solve it . The previous owner applied silicone on the end caps to seal them. Is this normally done? When I just removed the H/E I found that as I pushed the cap on the last time ,the silicone was pushed back and covered better than 50% of one of the four holes and about 25%of another. Which brings me to another question. Is the antifreeze forced through the holes or does it just come into contact with the tubes as it moves along with the flow,I assume the later.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
 
 
 
 
 

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower questions

 

Miles,

Does it have an isolated ground?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 6:33 PM, 'Miles Bidwell' milesbid@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

 

I repowered with the Volvo D2-75 about a year ago.  I am very pleased with the engine.  It has the same horse power but more torque, and uses the same transmission and prop.

 

Regards,

 

Miles

s/y Ladybug, les Saintes,