Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Nick Newington
 

Hi Alan,
Thanks
Yes I have checked the belts, no problem there.
The rectifier may be at fault, I think. Will have it bench tested.

Re -ve light leak coming on at the Masse it will be a long process but I guess starting with the bilge pump, wc motors, Bowthruster, windlasses etc etc. 
Thanks
Nick s/yAmelia


On 18 Jun 2018, at 09:40, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Nick,

Have you checked the alternator belt tension? If the belts aren't tight enough they could slip at low revs and therefore the alt won't charge.
It could also be a blown rectifier in the alternator...you need an auto electrician to check that.
The red handles only disconnect the batteries from the users on the boat. The alternator output is wired directly to the batteries.
If you have a rectifier failure in the alternator it is very unlikely that would lead to the Masse -ve light being activated. 
Diodes generally fail open circuit not short circuit.
The -ve masse light indicates that you have a connection somewhere between house bank -ve and the bonding system (ground). The most likely cause of that is something that is 24VDC powered and also has metal parts in touch with saltwater. The macerator pumps in the heads are the usual culprit, but beware of AC devices such as laptop chargers which m ay internally have -ve connected to ground and that will feed back through the system if you have the original Calpeda A/C pump...that is where the AC ground is connected to the bonding system.
In summary i don't think your alternator issues are associated with your -ve masse issue.
Good luck
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437,  the Blue Lagoon, Fiji


IMPORTANT - Dessalator JIC Flare fittings on High Pressure Hoses + More

 

All,

Please read all of this.

Just when I was fairly confident that I knew all I needed to know about changing/servicing Dessalator Membranes, I learned something new from Dessalator, France.

As you know, the Dessalator High Pressure Hoses connect to the High Pressure Pump, Control Panel, and Membranes utilizing a stainless steel JIC Flare fitting. A JIC fitting is widely used in many industries for connections of fluid-carrying hoses at high pressure. JIC fitting connections have matched 37-degree flare seating surfaces. I have always believed that JIC seals metal-to-metal. I was wrong in terms of Dessalator.

Dessalator notified me yesterday to use Loctite 542 on the "flare part only" of all JIC fittings. I have modified the appropriate page(s) in my Amel School Book for all my clients. I normally do not share contents of the Amel School Book with anyone other than my clients, but I believe it is important to notify all of you.

I hope that this will help you.

Regarding the Amel School Book, Support, and Discounts on Amel OEM, or equivalent replacements, including Dessalator and many others: If you have owned your Amel for over 2 years, you might be interested in this: CLICK HERE

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





Re: Boots for spreaders

Craig Briggs
 

Hey Pat,
Gentlemen don't sail upwind.  :-)

An option I've used is chafe patches on the genoa.

Cheers, Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

I have considerable chafe on my genoa that is only a few years old and maybe about 5000 miles on it. Its obviously rubbing on the spreader. Has anyone bought  boots for the spreaders on a SM that fit well. I have the wheels , but they don't provide enough protection.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123


Boots for spreaders

Patrick McAneny
 

I have considerable chafe on my genoa that is only a few years old and maybe about 5000 miles on it. Its obviously rubbing on the spreader. Has anyone bought  boots for the spreaders on a SM that fit well. I have the wheels , but they don't provide enough protection.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

karkauai
 

All good ideas, Bob.  It is interesting that on Kristy, and other SMs I assume”, the drain for the chain locker is just below the “false floor” of the locker (not at the bottom of the locker).  I assume that is to prevent debris from clogging the drain.  The result is that water drains through the holes in the floor and sits in the bottom of the Vee of the hull.  It is not possible to drain that space without removing the chain and sucking the water out through one of the holes.  When my chain rusted into a solid ball, that Vee space was 2/3 full of bits of rust.  I cut a hole big enough to get a large shop vacuum hose in.  Then I replaced the cut out with a larger piece screwed to it to keep it from falling through the hole.
Bottom line is that there is always water in that space and always humidity in the locker.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Jun 19, 2018, at 1:24 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Regarding fresh water flushes.  We also flush our entire system with fresh water (we do not have a loop for refrigerators but we also flush the pumps and lines to the toilets).  


However, we do this more frequently--when we are at the dock for more than a few days and even at anchor and sometimes we use the recommended mixture of Salt-A-Way.  We have been at the dock here at Cagliari for 8 days and will depart today--everything: Yanmar, Onan, AC, Anchor Wash, toilet pumps, and of course the sea chest and manifold have been in fresh water (measured at 140 ppm) the entire time.  Fresh water helps disolve deposits, prevents or kills marine growth, minimizes galvanic action.

We have a ball valve that isolates water from the manifold to the Dessalator.  When the Dessalator is flushed with fresh water, we let the water push back into the manifold and then shut the ball valve.  This keeps the supply hose to the low pressure pump in fresh water and prevents, say Salt-A-Way from entering the Dessalator system.

When we make water at anchor we usually divert the first few minutes of production into several 5 litre jugs that we keep on the engine room floor.  Usually this initial product has higher ppm and potential odor.  We use this same water to flush the generator/manifold etc. when we are finished.  It does not take much to flush the generator, manifold, engine, anchor wash.  We think it costs about $0.10/liter to make our own water so for a buck or 2 you have more than enough fresh water to do the job.

A couple of other actions regarding fresh water.  When we are at a dock and have been anchoring, we pull the chain out into a large rubber bucket that normally stores cleaning products and brushes.  We fill the bucket with fresh water and let the chain soak, change the water, and then let the chain dry on deck before it goes back into the chain locker.  Our guess is that most chain rust happens in the chain locker when the moist, salt laden chain sits there.  This may be another reason why the overhead of the chain locker deteriorates on some Amels. If we get a chance we also spray out the inside of the chain locker.

None of these actions seem burdensome to us.  If you build it into a routine, it is not complicated.  A side benefit is that they let us monitor how well the impellers and pumps are pulling water.

When underway we keep a large plastic bowl in our head sinks (the kind with a soft urethane bottom on the lower third of the bowl).  Most water is used for hand washing and face washing and that soapy water is just poured into the toilet and flushed....flushing it and keeping it in fresh water for periods of time as well.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429
 


Re: Shore Side Circuit Breaker Tripping When Plugging in Boat

Aras Grinius <n33077@...>
 

I've been having the same problem, however I use a YC-230 to combine voltage of 2 30 amp /120V to give give me 220V.  What I originally thought was that my batt charger failed.   
It tuned out I had a couple of issues: master breaker failed as did the alternator.   To get the engine panel working I had to excite the alternator to 1200 RPM's then it would begin to charge.  The master breaker being 30 years old will not stay closed. I ordered a new from Maude.  Right now, I'm putting everything back together and shall see if it is fixed.   What is strange is how everything failed seemingly at once.

Aras
Sharki #163
S/V FIASCO


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Alternator and Masse leak detector

Nick Newington
 

Hi Alan,

I have had an electrician check the boat for me and I asked him to look into the -ve leak and to then try some diagnosis.

This is his reply  "I checked the leak controller, it shows a leak in negativ. I tried several things like bilge pump but nothing changed. When I dismantled the negativ from the 24 V alternator, the leak light went off. So, the problem might be the alternator or somewhere at the engine.”

So I reckon that this would suggest a fault on the 24v alternator or some kind of leak to the bonding system from the engine.

Nick


On 19 Jun 2018, at 02:18, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,


We have a NEXT STEP-2 reg ...there is a file in the Files section showing how I did it

The reg in the Leece  Neville alt is not designed to charge deep cycle batteries.
Keeping the voltage always at 28.8V will eventually kill your AGM batteries. They need a bulk, absorption, float regimen if they are to be cared for properly.

We have 
600W solar panels and  a Victron MPPT controller
Leece Neville 175A engine alt with Next Step-2 reg
Victron Skyalla 100A charger
Promariner 30A charger

and they are all set to the same absorption and float voltages.


Diodes fail open, I don't think that can be the cause of your problem.

Somewhere on some device that has both 24VDC feed AND a connection to the bonding system, there is a connection between -ve and the bonding connection...and it may not be a metal to metal contact , frequently it is through the sea water. 

Good Luck
Alan
Elyse SM437  Yasawa-i-rara




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Older Maramu steering system pics

smiles bernard
 

I wasn’t sure when I started as the steering was stiff
Turned out it was just in need of a service and Is nice and smooth again now
👍




On 17 Jun 2018, at 22:06, yachtmaccabee@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Are you just servicing the steering rack or replacing the cables?


Steve
Yacht MACCABEE
1985 Sharki 121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

rossirossix4
 

Regarding fresh water flushes.  We also flush our entire system with fresh water (we do not have a loop for refrigerators but we also flush the pumps and lines to the toilets).  

However, we do this more frequently--when we are at the dock for more than a few days and even at anchor and sometimes we use the recommended mixture of Salt-A-Way.  We have been at the dock here at Cagliari for 8 days and will depart today--everything: Yanmar, Onan, AC, Anchor Wash, toilet pumps, and of course the sea chest and manifold have been in fresh water (measured at 140 ppm) the entire time.  Fresh water helps disolve deposits, prevents or kills marine growth, minimizes galvanic action.

We have a ball valve that isolates water from the manifold to the Dessalator.  When the Dessalator is flushed with fresh water, we let the water push back into the manifold and then shut the ball valve.  This keeps the supply hose to the low pressure pump in fresh water and prevents, say Salt-A-Way from entering the Dessalator system.

When we make water at anchor we usually divert the first few minutes of production into several 5 litre jugs that we keep on the engine room floor.  Usually this initial product has higher ppm and potential odor.  We use this same water to flush the generator/manifold etc. when we are finished.  It does not take much to flush the generator, manifold, engine, anchor wash.  We think it costs about $0.10/liter to make our own water so for a buck or 2 you have more than enough fresh water to do the job.

A couple of other actions regarding fresh water.  When we are at a dock and have been anchoring, we pull the chain out into a large rubber bucket that normally stores cleaning products and brushes.  We fill the bucket with fresh water and let the chain soak, change the water, and then let the chain dry on deck before it goes back into the chain locker.  Our guess is that most chain rust happens in the chain locker when the moist, salt laden chain sits there.  This may be another reason why the overhead of the chain locker deteriorates on some Amels. If we get a chance we also spray out the inside of the chain locker.

None of these actions seem burdensome to us.  If you build it into a routine, it is not complicated.  A side benefit is that they let us monitor how well the impellers and pumps are pulling water.

When underway we keep a large plastic bowl in our head sinks (the kind with a soft urethane bottom on the lower third of the bowl).  Most water is used for hand washing and face washing and that soapy water is just poured into the toilet and flushed....flushing it and keeping it in fresh water for periods of time as well.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

karkauai
 

This is exactly what Barnacle Buster is supposed to help with. I have used it once a year since I bought the boat as directed, and all lines, etc appear to be completely free of scale or buildup.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM244

On Jun 18, 2018, at 5:51 PM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Paul;
 
In order to get Kokomo ready for the winter, we flush out all of her raw water systems with fresh water for about 15 minutes. We accomplish this by turning off the main thru hull valve, removing the raw water strainer cover and supplying the systems with a fresh water hose. We turn on each system one by one, from the anchor wash, refrigerators, A/C, generator and finally the main engine. We are able to keep up with the water demand on all systems with a single 3/4" hose, except the main engine which we need two hoses for. We leave the raw water main valve closed for the winter.
 
This may not help in your situation if you have existing buildup, but I would assume that since recirculation of an agent like barnacle buster or saltaway may prove challenging, you would have to leave some kind of product within the system for some time to dislodge the buildup and then flush out. Off course some the dislodged items may create issues else where. Have you inspected your heat exchanger on the Volvo for buildup? This may explain some of your temperature rise.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-644-0908 Fax
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 10:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

 

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Old B&G electronics for sale

Paul Osterberg
 

Paul, no the Raymarine instruments needs bigger holes so I just screw a thin piece of plywood behind the old holes and use that to guide the hole saw to make bigger holes. No problem, the same technique can be used for instruments with smaller holes, just need a thin ply or similar behind the old holes the make the hole at the right size. Good material to have aboard is plastic cutting boards very low cost and versatile for such purpose and many others. 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Alternator and Masse leak detector

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Nick,

We have a NEXT STEP-2 reg ...there is a file in the Files section showing how I did it

The reg in the Leece  Neville alt is not designed to charge deep cycle batteries.
Keeping the voltage always at 28.8V will eventually kill your AGM batteries. They need a bulk, absorption, float regimen if they are to be cared for properly.

We have 
600W solar panels and  a Victron MPPT controller
Leece Neville 175A engine alt with Next Step-2 reg
Victron Skyalla 100A charger
Promariner 30A charger

and they are all set to the same absorption and float voltages.


Diodes fail open, I don't think that can be the cause of your problem.

Somewhere on some device that has both 24VDC feed AND a connection to the bonding system, there is a connection between -ve and the bonding connection...and it may not be a metal to metal contact , frequently it is through the sea water. 

Good Luck
Alan
Elyse SM437  Yasawa-i-rara


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, OK , good to know, its always been like that and I guess with other things to worry about ,I never gave it much thought.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2018 5:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

 
Hi Pat. No it is not normal. I have had the same on Ocean pearl and through my rather practical life on other motors in vehicles of diverse types. The excitation circuit is faulty. This circuit feeds voltage to the alternator from the battery. When it is not functioning, as you have found, the alternator self excites if you rev it. On my tmd22 the excitation was activated by tuning the key on and was routed through a voltmeter. (The voltmeter was incedental, it just happend to be in that ciruit and was a handy way to see it was functional) You may have a different circuit but it will be activated by turning the key on. My 24 volt alternator is excited by a feed from the house batteries activated by a solenoid activated by a feed through the start key from the 12 volt starting battery.
Search from your key looking for a separated wire or a poor connection.
Regards
Danny
SM 299. Ocean Pearl
On 19 June 2018 at 09:27 "Patr ick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Since several boats are the same , in that they need to rev up to charge, maybe someone could chime in and say if this normal or not.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

 
Was the same on NIKIMAT SM2K #289 (and on a 1976 Aston Martin I owned).

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 6/18/18, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, June 18, 2018, 11:30 AM


 









My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a
rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.&# 160; Not sure if
it is right but it has been stable for last year.
John Clark SV Annie 
SM37enroute to St. Lucia.
On Mon, Jun
18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@...
[amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 










Nick,
There
are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid
state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail
they fail "open" and block current flow in both
directions.
It
is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside
the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at
all would then be pretty close to zero.
Bill
KinneySM160,
HarmonieAnnapolis,
MD, USA < br>
---In amelyachtowners@...,
wrote
:

Hello
fellow Amelians,
I have had a great passage
to the Azores from Antigua (14.5
days). 
Some months ago I asked
 the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was
advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit
 which I did. However I still have the same problem that
the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once
kicked in I can throttle back idle and still
charge.
No big deal right.....well
yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the
diodes is defective and that I might have a small current
drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode
failure is compatible with the general history I have
described?
Why am I thinking along
these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so
when I left the boat last week I  checked the
"Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on
the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I
only turned off the master red handles for the batteries.
Thinking that the batteries would be
isolated.
Now back in the UK, unable
to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red
handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator
from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on
the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite
the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my
anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank.
Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v
Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not
as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off
the handles only to discover the cabl es to all be still
live. 
To summarise what my
questions are:1. Is the excitation
history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator
compatible with partial diode failure?2.
Do the red handles shut off
everything? 3. Could a -ve leak as
detected by the masse be compatible with diode
failure?
NickAmelia
(amel 54 hull 019)







 
 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Shore Side Circuit Breaker Tripping When Plugging in Boat

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

I had the same occur when my hot water cylinder was turned on. The element was faulty and shorted out so the shore power breaker flipped..

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 19 June 2018 at 10:05 "mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,


One fairly simple thing to check is the auto transfer switch that selects ether the generator or shore power for AC Power.  Mine failed soon after converting our shore power cable to be able to plug into a US 50 Amp shore power outlet.  The switch on my SM was located in the engine room in a plastic box labelled "QUAI/GE" mounted on a wooden board outboard/above of the generator.  My SM is a 2004 model so I don't know if yours is configured the same as mine.

Mark Erdos from Cream Puff had the same switch fail on him as well:  http://www.creampuff.us/2015/07/the-night-the-lights-went-out-in-georgia/   I did not replace the failed switch with another autotransfer switch. I replaced it with a more robust manual "break-before-make" switch:  https://www.bluesea.com/products/8357/AC_Rotary_Switch_Panel_65_Ampere_2_positions_%2B_OFF_2_Pole

Note that this setup does require that I actually go into the engine room to change the switch position from Shore Power to Generator.  But as Mark Erdos pointed out to me, you really should be going into the engine room to check the oil in the generator anyway before starting it up!  

I hope this helps.  Good luck finding your issue.

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA  
 

 


 


 


Re: Shore Side Circuit Breaker Tripping When Plugging in Boat

mfmcgovern@...
 

Bill,

One fairly simple thing to check is the auto transfer switch that selects ether the generator or shore power for AC Power.  Mine failed soon after converting our shore power cable to be able to plug into a US 50 Amp shore power outlet.  The switch on my SM was located in the engine room in a plastic box labelled "QUAI/GE" mounted on a wooden board outboard/above of the generator.  My SM is a 2004 model so I don't know if yours is configured the same as mine.

Mark Erdos from Cream Puff had the same switch fail on him as well:  http://www.creampuff.us/2015/07/the-night-the-lights-went-out-in-georgia/   I did not replace the failed switch with another autotransfer switch. I replaced it with a more robust manual "break-before-make" switch:  https://www.bluesea.com/products/8357/AC_Rotary_Switch_Panel_65_Ampere_2_positions_%2B_OFF_2_Pole

Note that this setup does require that I actually go into the engine room to change the switch position from Shore Power to Generator.  But as Mark Erdos pointed out to me, you really should be going into the engine room to check the oil in the generator anyway before starting it up!  

I hope this helps.  Good luck finding your issue.

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA  
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

Mark Erdos
 

Paul,

 

Sorry, I misread your post. You did say raw-water side.

 

The best way to clean the raw water side is to remove the heat exchanger and after cooler from the engine. Either take them to a radiator shop or put them in a bucket with a phosphoric acid solution.

 

I think I would replace “crunchy” hoses. Else, the inside of hoses can be cleaned with a pressure washer.

 

Also check the exhaust elbow for any holes or blockage. Any side of salt on the outside of the elbow indicates a pin size hole and needs to be addressed.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

 

 

Hi,

 

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

 

Don't forget to check any in-line devices like a transmission oil cooler (heat exchanger). Many times I have found this to be the problem. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018, 16:14 sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;
 
In order to get Kokomo ready for the winter, we flush out all of her raw water systems with fresh water for about 15 minutes. We accomplish this by turning off the main thru hull valve, removing the raw water strainer cover and supplying the systems with a fresh water hose. We turn on each system one by one, from the anchor wash, refrigerators, A/C, generator and finally the main engine. We are able to keep up with the water demand on all systems with a single 3/4" hose, except the main engine which we need two hoses for. We leave the raw water main valve closed for the winter.
 
This may not help in your situation if you have existing buildup, but I would assume that since recirculation of an agent like barnacle buster or saltaway may prove challenging, you would have to leave some kind of product within the system for some time to dislodge the buildup and then flush out. Off course some the dislodged items may create issues else where. Have you inspected your heat exchanger on the Volvo for buildup? This may explain some of your temperature rise.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-644-0908 Fax
 



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 10:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

 

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat. No it is not normal. I have had the same on Ocean pearl and through my rather practical life on other motors in vehicles of diverse types. The excitation circuit is faulty. This circuit feeds voltage to the alternator from the battery. When it is not functioning, as you have found, the alternator self excites if you rev it. On my tmd22 the excitation was activated by tuning the key on and was routed through a voltmeter. (The voltmeter was incedental, it just happend to be in that ciruit and was a handy way to see it was functional) You may have a different circuit but it will be activated by turning the key on. My 24 volt alternator is excited by a feed from the house batteries activated by a solenoid activated by a feed through the start key from the 12 volt starting battery.

Search from your key looking for a separated wire or a poor connection.

Regards

Danny

SM 299. Ocean Pearl

On 19 June 2018 at 09:27 "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Since several boats are the same , in that they need to rev up to charge, maybe someone could chime in and say if this normal or not.

Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector

 
Was the same on NIKIMAT SM2K #289 (and on a 1976 Aston Martin I owned).

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 6/18/18, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alternator and Masse leak detector
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, June 18, 2018, 11:30 AM


 









My SM#37,  with Volvo TMD22 requires a
rev for tach and 12v alternator to fire off.  Not sure if
it is right but it has been stable for last year.
John Clark SV Annie 
SM37enroute to St. Lucia.
On Mon, Jun
18, 2018, 9:46 AM greatketch@...
[amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 










Nick,
There
are no "partial failures" of diodes.  As solid
state devices they either work--or not.  When they fail
they fail "open" and block current flow in both
directions.
It
is possible, I guess, you could have a short circuit inside
the alternator somewhere, but the chances of it working at
all would then be pretty close to zero.
Bill
KinneySM160,
HarmonieAnnapolis,
MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@...,
<kwzy6vgkpvtfohjddjsrotobzwf2pjeafjwalhur@...> wrote
:

Hello
fellow Amelians,
I have had a great passage
to the Azores from Antigua (14.5
days). 
Some months ago I asked
 the forum about exciting the 24v alternator and was
advised by Bill to check the relay and excitation circuit
 which I did. However I still have the same problem that
the alternator needs 1500 rpm to "kick in". Once
kicked in I can throttle back idle and still
charge.
No big deal right.....well
yes and no I am beginning to think that maybe one of the
diodes is defective and that I might have a small current
drain through the alternator. Does anyone know if a diode
failure is compatible with the general history I have
described?
Why am I thinking along
these lines? I had to return to the UK for two weeks, so
when I left the boat last week I  checked the
"Masse" leak indicator that came up with a leak on
the -ve side. Unfortunately I had to catch my plane so I
only turned off the master red handles for the batteries.
Thinking that the batteries would be
isolated.
Now back in the UK, unable
to check the boat I am worrying. If I am correct, the red
handles do not isolate the chargers or the 24v alternator
from the battery bank. Thus if there is a diode failure on
the 24v alternator the batteries could be leaking despite
the red handles being turned off. This could be bad for my
anodes and prop for example not to mention the battery bank.
Does anyone know if the red handles isolate the 24v
Alternator or not. I can not remember 100% but I believe not
as when I was working on the engine one time I turned off
the handles only to discover the cables to all be still
live. 
To summarise what my
questions are:1. Is the excitation
history, i.e. reving to 1500 etc on the 24v alternator
compatible with partial diode failure?2.
Do the red handles shut off
everything? 3. Could a -ve leak as
detected by the masse be compatible with diode
failure?
NickAmelia
(amel 54 hull 019)







 

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

Mark Erdos
 

Paul,

 

I would suggest using a bucket and a pump to circulate a flushing agent through the engine for a couple of hours. You can use any automotive radiator flushing agent to clean the coolant side of the engine. You will need to drain all the coolant and remove the impeller. Make a loop from the water intake to the water exit (at the exhaust elbow) to circulate the fluids. When done, add new coolant and replace the impeller.

 

If your engine is running hot or hotter than normal it is probably not the coolant side that needs help. You will most likely find your heat exchanger or after cooler (if you have a turbo) is starting to clog on the seawater side. This is the most common cause of a marine engine running hot.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 1:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

 

 

Hi,

 

I'm looking for some advice on how to flush the raw water system on my Volvo D3-110i-C. I know it has debris/salt etc. build up because I can feel it crunching in the rubber hose when I squeeze it, and also the engine which normally runs a 78°C at 1250rpm is now running at 83°C or higher.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amrl 54 #98