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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra
John, OK, wanted to make sure on the high hull number. I think that you may have bought the last 55. Anyway, the B&G analog 213MHU is repairable with multiple components. I understand that the B&G 608 MHU digital (pictured below) is not. I could tell you all sorts of things about the bulletproof 213MHU, including simple voltage checks to determine the likely part to replace...but unfortunately, I believe that you will have to either see a B&G technician, or buy a replacement 608 digital MHU. 608 digital The good news is that the 608MHU digital is about half the price of the 213MHU, the bad news is other than paddlewheel and windvane, it is a throw-away. You could also have a B&G WS310 or WS320 wireless wind unit (pictured below)...these are digitalas well and throw-aways. WS310 wired It could be the B&G processor: You might have the H3000 processor. If you do and it is faulty, you will probably have to either buy a used one or upgrade to the H5000...but, if upgrade is the case, most of the individual displays and other devices will need to be replaced as well. I think that I would be tempted to buy a new digital masthead unit and try it...most of the digital B&G masthead units only have a life of 5 years, so if you don't need it now, you might need it later...and possibly later, it will no longer be in production...see next paragraph. The ugly bottom line: To meet the demand of new boaters for fancy-dancy, high resolution, touchscreen instruments, and highly integrated electronic navigation systems, manufacturers have been changing systems at the same warp speed of technological advances. Sounds great, right? WELL, the bad news is that these systems, instruments, and devices are not backward capable and usually require similar technology in each device. The result is that when you lose a $500 device in a 2-4 year old system, it might cost $20,000, or more for an entirely new system. The sum of the above is the reason that I recommend to owners SMs and 54s with older instruments to repair them as long as they can...those older devices and systems last 20+ years...the newer devices and systems, sadly, will last as long as your smartphone...how long is that? Replacing an entire electronic navigation suite on a cruising yacht is costly, especially if done every 4-5 years. I think most of those people pushing manufacturers along this constant upgrade path, have no idea of the recurring system replacement costs that they will need to budget for. Sadly, almost everyone reading this email either does understand or will. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging
ya_fohi
Ian, Thanks for the detailed info - that's a great help. The 54 has a Frigoboat with connectors for both high & low pressure. It does seem then that I have a blockage then. I'm in Antigua so finding a vacuum pump at reasonable price may be a bit challenging. If I do find one, then what is the procedure to use it? I assume I connect to the service port in the manifold (the centre one), but then which side do I open - high or low? Cheers, Paul
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra
John Clanton
It is the digital MHU. Yes Amel 55, hull number 65, delivered March of this year.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging
Ian Shepherd
Hi Paul, I have been servicing my fridge/freezers on Crusader for some years now, and also the unit in my flat. From what you say, I would suspect a blockage in the evaporator, most likely caused by ice forming due to moisture getting into the system. I would suggest that you add two items to your kit. A vacuum pump and an infra-red temperature measuring gun. Experience has shown me that it is generally a waste of time and gas re-gassing without evacuating the system for a minimum of 30 minutes on a low pressure system such as the SM Frigaboat equipment. High pressure systems need maybe 15-25 minutes longer if you have added one to you boat, such as a ice making machine. Vacuum pumps are available at a reasonable cost and well worth having. I had a symptom similar to yours on my Scholte fridge freezer in my flat recently. After about 20 minutes of evacuating there was a sudden plop and the obstruction came free. Again I suspect it was caused by ice. When it comes to re-gassing, I have read of many ways, some even measuring the current taken by the compressor. However, this is what I do: 1/ Vacuum pump for 30 minutes. Close the manifold valves and
switch off the pump. Monitor the vacuum pressure for about 20
minutes. If it starts to decrease , you have a leak. Then I think
you do need an expert to come find it and fix it. 2/ Let your R134a into the system for about 5 seconds only, then switch on the fridge with the thermostat turned fully up. The compressor has an outlet pipe called the liquid line, and a return pipe called the suction line. The connector that you attach your blue hose to is usually close to the compressor on the suction line. 3/ Touch the liquid line with your fingers. It should get hot. If it does not, then add more gas a little at a time till it does. 4/ Once this is happening you have compressed refrigerant on its
way to the condenser which removes some heat through the fan,
before it travels to the evaporator chest, which doubles as the
ice box on the Frigaboat fridge. 5/ Using an infra-red temperature gun, measure the temperature of
the evaporator chest. It should be headed downwards so somewhere
around -15C on the fridge and -25C in the under the salon seat
freezer. Remember it does take time to achieve these temperatures.
The temperature around the whole of the evaporator chest should be
about the same. If it is not, then you need to add more gas a
little at a time and wait before re-measuring. Patience is the key
word. 6/ Finally feel the temperature of the suction line close to where it enters the compressor. It should feel no more than cool, with perhaps a wet feel to the pipe. If it ices up, it means too much gas and that liquid is returning to the compressor instead of heat carrying gas. It does take a lot of patience to get the balance just right. I
leave the bottle and manifold connected for a full day before I am
satisfied that I have it about right. Usually I end up with a
suction line pressure of around 5-6 psi, which corresponds with
what I have read, 7 psi being the maximum that an R134a system
should run, or so some say. I hope that this helps Paul. It's a bit of an art to get it right and I have had some professionals make a complete mess of my refrigeration, and others that have done an excellent job. However, when you are 'out there' and it goes wrong, there is no money better spent in having the equipment on board to fix it whist under way. A quick question. How did you measure the high pressure side of
the compressor? Did you fit a line tap? Maybe there is a connector
on the liquid line as standard on the 54? Regards Ian shepherd SM2K 414 (2003) Crusader Herzliya Marina Israel
On 28/06/2018 01:16,
sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra
John, Do you have the digital B&G MastHead Unit (MHU), or the B&G analog 213MHU? Is your Amel a 55, or 54...if 55, are you sure about hull #65? Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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wind direction on B&G Hydra
John Clanton
I recently experienced a loss of wind direction data on my B&G Hydra while on passage. Wind speed continued to report normally, but all direction related data boxes displayed a flat line. A reboot of the Hydra system at the breaker corrected the problem, but it occurred again later in the day. I plan to disconnect, treat with CorrosionX, and reconnect the wires at the black box and at the junction below the mast step.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Aside from checking connections, does anyone have a suggestion other than finding a technician to look at it? Thanks, John S/V Devereux, A55 #65 Ribadeo Spain
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries for Amel 54
Hi Wolfgang,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
You can look at BatteryMagastore online I got 13 Hankook MF31-750 110Ah in Sept 2015, which cost £70 in UK and in France they now advertise them at about €88. They should last you about 5 years. This was the best price that I found. Best Regards Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Split Croatia
On Jun 28, 2018, at 12:37, webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Batteries for Amel 54
Dear Amel sailors, I am on the way to Hyeres /France and want New batteries for our Amel 54. Charger and everything will not be changed and I would like to buy nearly the same batteries - the originals are from 2010/11. Any recommendations where to buy and which brand ? Thank you. Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 # 162 on the way to Bonifacio/France
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat
Sv Garulfo
Hi Mohammad and Aty, So you don't have that 425A fuse on Kokomo? It'd be interesting to have other data points. When we started seeing A54s for sale, someone from the yard in Hyères told us Amel started to fit the emergency disconnect on 54s after instances of incidents where the bow thruster wouldn't stop. The thermal switch should provide that safety stop, but maybe they felt there should be a manual override too, in case. By the way, it was in the same sentence as "have the genset running when you use the bow thruster" that raised a few eyebrows in this group a while back. At the time, not knowing better, I took it for granted. Sufficient and safe, yes. Necessary?, I'm not sure. We don't do it anymore as we don't go to marinas that much and when we do, we try to play the game of least-bow-thruster-usage to improve our handling skills, and our batteries can handle the high current discharge. Fair winds! Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Curacao
On Thu, 28 Jun 2018 at 05:38, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Finally a real forum member
Hi fellow Amel owners,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From and environmental point of view; I feel that there is no problem at sea and in the open ocean. There is certainly a lot of hypocrisy regarding commercial vessels being permitted to use tin based antifouling. I do not claim to be very knowledgable on the chemistry and biology involved. However in marinas, rivers and harbours there is often a high concentration of yachts that just sit there year in year out, thousands of them. Antifouling with tin based paints is probably very harmful to aquatic life. I should also mention that these areas are traditionally fish nurseries and under a lot of pressure from agricultural run off and general pollution. Not to mention the sanding and painting that boat yards do. I know in many places they are supposed to capture the residue, but in the real world how often does that happen? So yes in one way it is a shame that we can not apply a bottom paint that will last 5 years but we have a duty to look after our seas and inland waterways after all we are yachting for pleasure. When I bought Amelia in June 2017 the existing bottom paint was Micron 66. I decided to leave it and see how it fared as I was due to haul in Trinidad for September to December. It was still perfect so I left it again, but added a coat of Micron 77 to the rudder. It is still perfect. I wonder how eco it really is. Nick
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Finally a real forum member
They may have told you that but since 2008, tin based antifouling has been banned in the US
Google it .... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi
Thomas;
Your
fuse may have been added on because I've heard some surveyors and
insurance companies regard this situation as unsafe and will require the fuse to
be added. I'm pretty sure that we were told by Olivier during our survey that
the bow thruster is directly connected to the batteries. When I inquired about
the reason, I believe the response was that Amel felt that the safety of the
boat, when absolutely needing the bow thruster to be operational, was more
important than the possibility of the bow thruster being damaged due to
overuse.
The
emergency disconnect is a manually operated switch which would require
intervention form a person to stop current flowing to the bow
thruster.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2018 2:01 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat
Hi Mohammad,
On Garulfo (54-122) there is also a 425A fuse on the positive cable and an
emergency disconnect (big red button), both housed in the box inside the forward
locker.
I recently found the emergency disconnect to be rusted frozen so it's on
the list for replacement.
I would encourage others to test the emergency disconnect as it has a
carbon steel backing plate and is mounted without any kind of waterproofing so
is bound to rust.
Fair winds,
Thomas
GARULFO
A54-122
Curacao
On Wed, 27 Jun 2018 at 19:27, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Finally a real forum member
Two different marinas here in the US indifferent states have told me that it’s perfectly legal to put Island 44 on any boat greater than 75 ft.
Kent
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Finally a real forum member
My thoughts exactly, JP. It seems the small amount of paint we use is an easy target for bureaucrats and legislators who want to make a statement. We have no clout compared to the commercial shipping, military, and mega yacht crowd. If they made the rule for everybody I’d likely go along if the science is solid.
Sorry...I’m getting too political, I’m done. Kent Kristy SM243
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Isolated grounding question - solar installation
James Cromie
Thank you all for your thoughtful responses. I find this forum to be one of the great aspects of owning an Amel. In the short time I have owned my own Amel, I have gained such a tremendous amount of knowledge and understanding just from the ongoing discourse on this forum.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
As far as the solar panel arch and panels: yes, my panels do have an aluminum frame. I might use G-10 insulation at the mounting points of the aluminum solar panel frames to the steel arch, but it seems as though there is no strong argument to connect the arch to the bonding system. I will tackle this project in another two weeks and hopefully post some photos of the installation… always interested in the critique from those more experienced than myself while I’m on this incredibly steep learning curve! Best, James Soteria SM2K 347 Portsmouth, RI
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Finally a real forum member
John Clark
Congratulations Arno, whatever you paint your boat with.....she is an Amel, one of the finest ocean crossing vessels built. I am in Martinique for the next few months enjoying cheese and wine....will head toward Curecua later in the year. Hope to meet up. John Clark SV Annie. SM37 Le Marin. ....pontoon 4 of course.
On Wed, Jun 27, 2018, 4:44 PM 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging
John Clark
Paul, you say the HP tube is frosted before entering the evaporator/freezer? 10" vac is too low, 105 psi does sound high....
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging
ya_fohi
Hi all once again! I'd like to resume this thread having now acquired a gauge set and a cylinder of R134A. After lots of trawling the web, tI'm still not 100% sure about my diagnosis for my faulty freezer. After running for quite some time, the high pressure reading is 105 psi and the low is minus 10 in Hg. This leads me to believe that there is a blockage in the capilliary tube or the evaporator, as from what I have managed to find out the low pressure should be around 7-10psi. The high pressure tube frosts up to the point of entry to the evaporator but the evaporator remains cold but not frosted. I've tried heating it with a mini blow torch (as I've seen fridge techs do) but to no avail. I would be interested if someone could confirm my diagnosis or correct it if it is wrong, and offer any further advice on how the remedy the problem. I understand it may require a vacuum in which case I'll have to get the experts in. Cheres, Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat
Sv Garulfo
Hi Mohammad, On Garulfo (54-122) there is also a 425A fuse on the positive cable and an emergency disconnect (big red button), both housed in the box inside the forward locker. I recently found the emergency disconnect to be rusted frozen so it's on the list for replacement. I would encourage others to test the emergency disconnect as it has a carbon steel backing plate and is mounted without any kind of waterproofing so is bound to rust. Fair winds, Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Curacao
On Wed, 27 Jun 2018 at 19:27, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Finally a real forum member
Sv Garulfo
Hi Arno Always happy to meet, and we'll be back in Curacao at the end of august. Cheers Thomas 54-122
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