Date   

Amel 54 Foresail furlers

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Forum,


A while ago I noticed a conversation about getting new furlers for the Amel 54 at a group rate. Does someone know what the actual state of this initiative is?


Thanks,


Arno Luijten


Re: Finally a real forum member

Arno Luijten
 

Hi John,

That may be sooner then you think. I will be on Martinique in the week of 9 July.

Regards,

Arno


Re: Finally a real forum member

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Nick,

Quick question; Where did you get the Micron 77 from? I looked at a few chandleries in the Caribbean but did not find it.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: SM Batteries

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Colin,

There's probably little doubt that attaching the extra 300W of solar directly to your battery bank did them more harm than good. The constant 28.8V from the alternator doesn't help either if you do long periods of motoring.

Our 12 x 6V AGM batteries came with charging ranges Absorption 7.25 - 7.45V, Float 6.8 - 6.9V.
I opted for the middle of the range so for 4 in series as a 24V system, we have Absorption 29.4V and float 27.4V.
All our charging systems (Engine Alt, Solar, D400 wind, Victron 100A and Promariner 30A) are set to those voltages and all bar the D400 wind generator have a battery temperature input, so those voltages vary depending on the temperature of the batteries.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: SM Batteries

mfmcgovern@...
 

Kent,

I don't know where you are planning on getting your batteries from but I highly recommend that you check this local Annapolis place for before you buy anything:  https://www.stevensbattery.com/

The owner is a boater and very knowledgeable.  They have great customer service and pricing.  They have a ton of batteries in stock but they turn them over quickly.  Last year I purchased 12 x Deka Marine Master DC31DT for a lower price than I could find anywhere on the internet when factoring in shipping cost - somewhere around $120 each.  I bought them in September of 2017 and the stickers on them show that they were manufactured in July of 2017.  They also load tested each one of them for me before loading them into my car so I knew that I was not getting a "dud".  

Last, they let a friend of mine borrow some empty 6v battery cases so that he could mock up his battery bank to see how many batteries he can fit.  They would likely let you do the same if you asked.

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
   


 


Re: SM Batteries

islandpearl2_sm2k332
 

Our 8 x Trojan 105's 225amp 6v lead acid batteries failed here in Mauritius today after being plugged in to shore power whilst we travelled inland for 4 days. We have just purchased 8 x 220 amp 6V AGM's (just over US$2000) of same dimensions. There were limited choices available out here in the Indian Ocean and with many on the forum now moved to AGM's, we decided to part ways from the trusty Trojans we liked so much, when none were available here.

We have a Victron 24v Victron 70amp/3000w Inverter charger and 850w solar coming in through a Tracer 40amp solar controller. Our Rutland 1200 Wind Gen solar controller unit would not work with the recent 300w of extra solar panels we put on so I direct wired those in to the battery bank and that could possibly have been my downfall!

Also our Yanmar 75hp has the original standard 80amp alternator on it which I think pushes out a constant 28.8v.

Any wisdom and/or suggestions on what I should look out for or change tomorrow when I connect the AGM's into my system for the first time after running this boat on lead acid for the past 16yrs? The AGM's came with no charge settings so keen to know what most of you set your various 3 stage charge settings at?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Paul,

Antigua might prove more expensive but there must be a source to cope with all the a/c units out there. I can't remember what the mains voltage is in Antigua. I suspect 220V due to it's heritage?

I normally connect my gas bottle to the centre port using the yellow hose, the blue compressor suction line to the blue port and the pump to the red port. In this case I would leave the gas bottle closed and open both the blue and red valves. Be sure that the hoses are the right way round. The ends are different, one end designed to open the valve in the end of the compressor connection fitting.

Before you recharge the gas, be certain to purge both the manifold and the blue line. Shut both valves then open the gas bottle then the blue valve with the blue hose fitting slackened where it connects to the compressor. Let the gas flow through then tighten the hose so that the gas flows into the compressor. If you don't purge and any air gets into the system then you will also get moisture in as well, ruining the good work you just did.

Good luck. I will be off line for a couple of days as I am sailing back to Cyprus tomorrow.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Israel



On 28/06/2018 19:44, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Ian,

Thanks for the detailed info - that's a great help. The 54 has a Frigoboat with connectors for both high & low pressure. It does seem then that I have a blockage then. I'm in Antigua so finding a vacuum pump at reasonable price may be a bit challenging. If I do find one, then what is the procedure to use it? I assume I connect to the service port in the manifold (the centre one), but then which side do I open - high or low?

Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] amel Santorin

Olaf Bauer MIA-AMARA at Yahoo <olaf_renos@...>
 

Yes, have seen a Santorin here in LeMarin, Martinique some weeks ago which was modified to L shaped.

 

But I don’t know whether they are still in Martinique or not.

 

What are you looking for? Which infos would you require then?

 

Fair winds

Olaf

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: 27 June 2018 13:47
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] amel Santorin

 

 

Has anyone seen or are aware of a Santorin galley that has been modified to U shaped or L shaped?

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra

John Clanton
 

Thanks Bill for the insight on the various MHUs.  I will keep the group posted on diagnosis. 

I agree with you regarding the pace of change being expensive for both the manufacturers and users.  It is hard to imagine what additional bells and whistles could be added to modern electronics that would truly add value..  Stability and reliability are more important than wi-fi based social media tracking functionality, or whatever tomorrow's gee-whiz topic may be.

John
S/V Devereux, A55, #65
Ribadeo, Spain


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra

Arthur Sundqvist
 

You are right. 200%
Arthur 


Skickat från min iPhone

28 juni 2018 kl. 19:14 skrev Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

John,

OK, wanted to make sure on the high hull number. I think that you may have bought the last 55.

Anyway, the B&G analog 213MHU is repairable with multiple components. I understand that the B&G 608 MHU digital (pictured below) is not. I could tell you all sorts of things about the bulletproof 213MHU, including simple voltage checks to determine the likely part to replace...but unfortunately, I believe that you will have to either see a B&G technician, or buy a replacement 608 digital MHU. 
608 digital

The good news is that the 608MHU digital is about half the price of the 213MHU, the bad news is other than paddlewheel and windvane, it is a throw-away. You could also have a B&G WS310 or WS320 wireless wind unit (pictured below)...these are digitalas well and throw-aways.
WS310 wired

It could be the B&G processor: 
You might have the H3000 processor. If you do and it is faulty, you will probably have to either buy a used one or upgrade to the H5000...but, if upgrade is the case, most of the individual displays and other devices will need to be replaced as well. I think that I would be tempted to buy a new digital masthead unit and try it...most of the digital B&G masthead units only have a life of 5 years, so if you don't need it now, you might need it later...and possibly later, it will no longer be in production...see next paragraph.

The ugly bottom line: 
To meet the demand of new boaters for fancy-dancy, high resolution, touchscreen instruments, and highly integrated electronic navigation systems, manufacturers have been changing systems at the same warp speed of technological advances. Sounds great, right? WELL, the bad news is that these systems, instruments, and devices are not backward capable and usually require similar technology in each device. The result is that when you lose a $500 device in a 2-4 year old system, it might cost $20,000, or more for an entirely new system. 

The sum of the above is the reason that I recommend to owners SMs and 54s with older instruments to repair them as long as they can...those older devices and systems last 20+ years...the newer devices and systems, sadly, will last as long as your smartphone...how long is that? Replacing an entire electronic navigation suite on a cruising yacht is costly, especially if done every 4-5 years. I think most of those people pushing manufacturers along this constant upgrade path, have no idea of the recurring system replacement costs that they will need to budget for. Sadly, almost everyone reading this email either does understand or will.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Thu, Jun 28, 2018 at 10:29 AM clanton@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

It is the digital MHU.  Yes Amel 55, hull number 65, delivered March of this year.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra

 

John,

OK, wanted to make sure on the high hull number. I think that you may have bought the last 55.

Anyway, the B&G analog 213MHU is repairable with multiple components. I understand that the B&G 608 MHU digital (pictured below) is not. I could tell you all sorts of things about the bulletproof 213MHU, including simple voltage checks to determine the likely part to replace...but unfortunately, I believe that you will have to either see a B&G technician, or buy a replacement 608 digital MHU. 
608 digital

The good news is that the 608MHU digital is about half the price of the 213MHU, the bad news is other than paddlewheel and windvane, it is a throw-away. You could also have a B&G WS310 or WS320 wireless wind unit (pictured below)...these are digitalas well and throw-aways.
WS310 wired

It could be the B&G processor: 
You might have the H3000 processor. If you do and it is faulty, you will probably have to either buy a used one or upgrade to the H5000...but, if upgrade is the case, most of the individual displays and other devices will need to be replaced as well. I think that I would be tempted to buy a new digital masthead unit and try it...most of the digital B&G masthead units only have a life of 5 years, so if you don't need it now, you might need it later...and possibly later, it will no longer be in production...see next paragraph.

The ugly bottom line: 
To meet the demand of new boaters for fancy-dancy, high resolution, touchscreen instruments, and highly integrated electronic navigation systems, manufacturers have been changing systems at the same warp speed of technological advances. Sounds great, right? WELL, the bad news is that these systems, instruments, and devices are not backward capable and usually require similar technology in each device. The result is that when you lose a $500 device in a 2-4 year old system, it might cost $20,000, or more for an entirely new system. 

The sum of the above is the reason that I recommend to owners SMs and 54s with older instruments to repair them as long as they can...those older devices and systems last 20+ years...the newer devices and systems, sadly, will last as long as your smartphone...how long is that? Replacing an entire electronic navigation suite on a cruising yacht is costly, especially if done every 4-5 years. I think most of those people pushing manufacturers along this constant upgrade path, have no idea of the recurring system replacement costs that they will need to budget for. Sadly, almost everyone reading this email either does understand or will.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Thu, Jun 28, 2018 at 10:29 AM clanton@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

It is the digital MHU.  Yes Amel 55, hull number 65, delivered March of this year.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

ya_fohi
 

Ian,

Thanks for the detailed info - that's a great help. The 54 has a Frigoboat with connectors for both high & low pressure. It does seem then that I have a blockage then. I'm in Antigua so finding a vacuum pump at reasonable price may be a bit challenging. If I do find one, then what is the procedure to use it? I assume I connect to the service port in the manifold (the centre one), but then which side do I open - high or low?

Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra

John Clanton
 

It is the digital MHU.  Yes Amel 55, hull number 65, delivered March of this year.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat re-charging

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Paul,

I have been servicing my fridge/freezers on Crusader for some years now, and also the unit in my flat. From what you say, I would suspect a blockage in the evaporator, most likely caused by ice forming due to moisture getting into the system. I would suggest that you add two items to your kit. A vacuum pump and an infra-red temperature measuring gun.

Experience has shown me that it is generally a waste of time and gas re-gassing without evacuating the system for a minimum of 30 minutes on a low pressure system such as the SM Frigaboat equipment. High pressure systems need maybe 15-25 minutes longer if you have added one to you boat, such as a ice making machine. Vacuum pumps are available at a reasonable cost and well worth having.

I had a symptom similar to yours on my Scholte fridge freezer in my flat recently. After about 20 minutes of evacuating there was a sudden plop and the obstruction came free. Again I suspect it was caused by ice.

When it comes to re-gassing, I have read of many ways, some even measuring the current taken by the compressor. However, this is what I do:

1/ Vacuum pump for 30 minutes. Close the manifold valves and switch off the pump. Monitor the vacuum pressure for about 20 minutes. If it starts to decrease , you have a leak. Then I think you do need an expert to come find it and fix it.

2/ Let your R134a into the system for about 5 seconds only, then switch on the fridge with the thermostat turned fully up. The compressor has an outlet pipe called the liquid line, and a return pipe called the suction line. The connector that you attach your blue hose to is usually close to the compressor on the suction line.

3/ Touch the liquid line with your fingers. It should get hot. If it does not, then add more gas a little at a time till it does.

4/ Once this is happening you have compressed refrigerant on its way to the condenser which removes some heat through the fan, before it travels to the evaporator chest, which doubles as the ice box on the Frigaboat fridge.

5/ Using an infra-red temperature gun, measure the temperature of the evaporator chest. It should be headed downwards so somewhere around -15C on the fridge and -25C in the under the salon seat freezer. Remember it does take time to achieve these temperatures. The temperature around the whole of the evaporator chest should be about the same. If it is not, then you need to add more gas a little at a time and wait before re-measuring. Patience is the key word.

6/ Finally feel the temperature of the suction line close to where it enters the compressor. It should feel no more than cool, with perhaps a wet feel to the pipe. If it ices up, it means too much gas and that liquid is returning to the compressor instead of heat carrying gas.

It does take a lot of patience to get the balance just right. I leave the bottle and manifold connected for a full day before I am satisfied that I have it about right. Usually I end up with a suction line pressure of around 5-6 psi, which corresponds with what I have read, 7 psi being the maximum that an R134a system should run, or so some say.

I hope that this helps Paul. It's a bit of an art to get it right and I have had some professionals make a complete mess of my refrigeration, and others that have done an excellent job. However, when you are 'out there' and it goes wrong, there is no money better spent in having the equipment on board to fix it whist under way.

A quick question. How did you measure the high pressure side of the compressor? Did you fit a line tap? Maybe there is a connector on the liquid line as standard on the 54?

Regards

Ian shepherd SM2K 414 (2003) Crusader

Herzliya Marina Israel


On 28/06/2018 01:16, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Hi all once again!

I'd like to resume this thread having now acquired a gauge set and a cylinder of R134A. After lots of trawling the web, tI'm still not 100% sure about my diagnosis for my faulty freezer. After running for quite some time, the high pressure reading is 105 psi and the low is minus 10 in Hg. This leads me to believe that there is a blockage in the capilliary tube or the evaporator, as from what I have managed to find out the low pressure should be around 7-10psi. The high pressure tube frosts up to the point of entry to the evaporator but the evaporator remains cold but not frosted. I've tried heating it with a mini blow torch (as I've seen fridge techs do) but to no avail.

I would be interested if someone could confirm my diagnosis or correct it if it is wrong, and offer any further advice on how the remedy the problem. I understand it may require a vacuum in which case I'll have to get the experts in.

Cheres,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wind direction on B&G Hydra

 

John,

Do you have the digital B&G MastHead Unit (MHU), or the B&G analog 213MHU? 

Is your Amel a 55, or 54...if 55, are you sure about hull #65?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Thu, Jun 28, 2018 at 9:52 AM clanton@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I recently experienced a loss of wind direction data on my B&G Hydra while on passage.  Wind speed continued to report normally, but all direction related data boxes displayed a flat line.  A reboot of the Hydra system at the breaker corrected the problem, but it occurred again later in the day.  I plan to disconnect, treat with CorrosionX, and reconnect the wires at the black box and at the junction below the mast step. 

Has anyone had a similar experience?  Aside from checking connections, does anyone have a suggestion other than finding a technician to look at it?


Thanks,



John

S/V Devereux, A55 #65

Ribadeo Spain


wind direction on B&G Hydra

John Clanton
 

I recently experienced a loss of wind direction data on my B&G Hydra while on passage.  Wind speed continued to report normally, but all direction related data boxes displayed a flat line.  A reboot of the Hydra system at the breaker corrected the problem, but it occurred again later in the day.  I plan to disconnect, treat with CorrosionX, and reconnect the wires at the black box and at the junction below the mast step. 

Has anyone had a similar experience?  Aside from checking connections, does anyone have a suggestion other than finding a technician to look at it?


Thanks,



John

S/V Devereux, A55 #65

Ribadeo Spain


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries for Amel 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi Wolfgang,
You can look at BatteryMagastore online I got 13 Hankook MF31-750 110Ah in Sept 2015, which cost £70 in UK and in France they now advertise them at about €88. They should last you about 5 years.
This was the best price that I found.
Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Split Croatia


On Jun 28, 2018, at 12:37, webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Dear Amel sailors, I am on the way to Hyeres /France and want New batteries for our Amel 54.

Charger and everything will not be changed and I would like to buy nearly the same batteries - the originals are from 2010/11. Any recommendations where to buy and which brand ?

Thank you.

Wolfgang Weber SY Elise  Amel 54 # 162 on the way to Bonifacio/France


Batteries for Amel 54

Wolfgang Weber
 

Dear Amel sailors, I am on the way to Hyeres /France and want New batteries for our Amel 54.

Charger and everything will not be changed and I would like to buy nearly the same batteries - the originals are from 2010/11. Any recommendations where to buy and which brand ?

Thank you.

Wolfgang Weber SY Elise  Amel 54 # 162 on the way to Bonifacio/France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Mohammad and Aty,

So you don't have that 425A fuse on Kokomo?
It'd be interesting to have other data points. 

When we started seeing A54s for sale, someone from the yard in Hyères told us Amel started to fit the emergency disconnect on 54s  after instances of incidents where the bow thruster wouldn't stop. The thermal switch should provide that safety stop, but maybe they felt there should be a manual override too, in case.

By the way, it was in the same sentence as "have the genset running when you use the bow thruster" that raised a few eyebrows in this group a while back. At the time, not knowing better, I took it for granted. Sufficient and safe, yes. Necessary?, I'm not sure. We don't do it anymore as we don't go to marinas that much and when we do, we try to play the game of least-bow-thruster-usage to improve our handling skills, and our batteries can handle the high current discharge.


Fair winds!

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curacao



On Thu, 28 Jun 2018 at 05:38, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Thomas;
 
Your fuse may have been added on because I've heard some surveyors and insurance companies regard this situation as unsafe and will require the fuse to be added. I'm pretty sure that we were told by Olivier during our survey that the bow thruster is directly connected to the batteries. When I inquired about the reason, I believe the response was that Amel felt that the safety of the boat, when absolutely needing the bow thruster to be operational, was more important than the possibility of the bow thruster being damaged due to overuse.
 
The emergency disconnect is a manually operated switch which would require intervention form a person to stop current flowing to the bow thruster.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2018 2:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat

 


Hi Mohammad,

On Garulfo (54-122) there is also a 425A fuse on the positive cable and an emergency disconnect (big red button), both housed in the box inside the forward locker. 

I recently found the emergency disconnect to be rusted frozen so it's on the list for replacement. 

I would encourage others to test the emergency disconnect as it has a carbon steel backing plate and is mounted without any kind of waterproofing so is bound to rust. 

Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO
A54-122
Curacao 


On Wed, 27 Jun 2018 at 19:27, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Reudi;
 
Yes, the Amel 54 has a thermal cutoff to prevent damage to the thruster as well as continuous high current draw (Around 550 Amps at 24V) which could lead to fire on board. We've had the thermal cutoff kick in  only a couple of times and it has reset in a matter of minutes. We have not timed the exact reset duration.
 
I'm not aware of any adjustments in the thermal cutoff. The bow thruster has a direct connection to the batteries without a breaker. The thermal cutoff is the only safety items preventing major damage to the thruster and/or wiring.
 
Try to use the thruster in bursts (less than 15 seconds), as much as possible, so it has time to cool down between usage. We try to over correct a bit when we use use the BT so as the bow falls off, the BT has more time to cool.
 
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-644-0908 Fax
 


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2018 9:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...


Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow-Truster overheat


 

Dear Forum

On my Amel-54 I discovered that the bow truster stops working after repeatingly use within 10-15 min timeframe.

I used the bow truster a bit more than usual when I practiced some manouvers first time; - and on a second occation when I had to manouver in a marina with a lot of windguests of 18+ kn and another chain over my Anker.

It stopped working and after a while (maybe 10 min.) it re-started & operated normaly. I know BT Is not made for constant use, - only few seconds at a time. Then wait and re-use another time.

Question from a beginner:

Does the bow truster has a termic fuse which is activated after some time of usage to save the motor from overheating? 

Does anyone know exactly how it works and if this can be adjusted because I think the BT on Wasabi switches of quite fast. Any ideas or other information?

Best regards

Ruedi

SY Wasabi A54#55

Sailing Cyclades GR.




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Finally a real forum member

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi fellow Amel owners,

From and environmental point of view; I feel that there is no problem at sea and in the open ocean. There is certainly a lot of hypocrisy regarding commercial vessels being permitted to use tin based antifouling. I do not claim to be very knowledgable on the chemistry and biology involved.

However in marinas,  rivers and harbours there is often a high concentration of yachts that just sit there year in year out, thousands of them.  Antifouling with tin based paints is probably very harmful to aquatic life. I should also mention that these areas are traditionally fish nurseries and under a lot of pressure from agricultural run off and general pollution. Not to mention the sanding and painting that boat yards do. I know in many places they are supposed to capture the residue, but in the real world how often does that happen?

So yes in one way it is a shame that we can not apply a bottom paint that will last 5 years but we have a duty to look after our seas and inland waterways after all we are yachting for pleasure.

When I bought Amelia in June 2017 the existing bottom paint was Micron 66. I decided to leave it and see how it fared as I was due to haul in Trinidad for September to December. It was still perfect so I left it again, but added a coat  of Micron 77 to the rudder. It is still perfect. I wonder how eco it really is.

Nick 

On 28 Jun 2018, at 10:34, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

They may have told you that but since 2008, tin based antifouling has been banned in the US
Google it ....
Cheers
Alan 
Elyse SM437