Date   

Re: Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks for the help to everyone who responded.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Olivier, Removing the thermostat would not change the flow direction of the water and generally just would not be a good idea. The engine would not heat up as quickly,and may not ever rise to the correct temp. ,remember diesel do not like to run cool.Removing the thermostat would not correct your problem, unless you have a bad thermostat,and then it should be replaced ,not removed. Do what you will, but it only takes 15 minutes to remove the heat exchanger and it may just need to be cleaned out,problem solved , if its the seal then order it , problem solved, I would not wait to resolve your issue, but that me.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 8:21 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

 
Thanks a lot.  That does make it clearer.

I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass.

The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T

Olivier

SM Alpha


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Craig Briggs
 

I recall several old posts about "bulging" fiberglass in the area of the struts (and elsewhere) being the embedded carbon steel backing plates having expanded with rust and forcing the fiberglass to "bulge". Not surprising if original bolts removed to replace the struts, allowing water ingress. Similar "bulging" in other areas with backing plates have also been noted. Fiberglass itself, of course, doesn't "bulge".  Proper fix is cut out old plate and re-glass (preferably from the back side in the case of the hatch, for cosmetics), not just add exterior plates.
Cheers, Craig , SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle.

There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes...

In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work.



Best, Bill Rouse


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

o_ruhlmann@...
 

Thanks a lot.  That does make it clearer.


I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass.


The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T


Olivier


SM Alpha


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

First, you did not post your name , boat or the engine you have , however if you have a Volvo Tmd22 as I do, then this would apply. If you are overheating it would be a good idea to take out your heat exchanger , it may need cleaning and that may be your problem. I had cleaned mine a couple of times ,yet still had over heating. I only now discovered that there is a rubber ring/seal that slides over the tube and seals an opening inside the header tank , that forces the cooling water/antifreeze to flow thru the heat exchanger , rather than some of it to bypass it. That is why it still cooled the water to a point , but as the heat increased with rpms it could not cool it fast enough. I did not know about this seal as it was not on the tube whenever I pulled it out,it had deteriorated and fell apart, I found bits of it in the header tank. So pull the H/E out , if no ring that would be your problem. I also bought new rubber boots for the ends , the original ones were hard and hard to seal. Tip , The boots thru Volvo dealers were $144 each , I determined that my engine is a Perkins M80T and bought two boots from Parts4Engines for $48. for two ,saved $240. , they were more pliable and fit /sealed well, I also bought the seal from them, like $10. Its important that the seal is placed about 1/4 from the aft end so that it contacts with the opening in the header tank and seals it. With a flashlight look inside the tank ,you will see the opening. So check it out , if you have any questions let me know.
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 5:10 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

 
Hello Patrick,

My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM.
Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?

Thanks


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos
 

This may help:

 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Engine%20Repair/

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Curacao

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2018 5:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster

 

 

Hello Patrick,

 

My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM.

Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?

 

Thanks


Re: Barnacle Buster

o_ruhlmann@...
 

Hello Patrick,


My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM.

Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?


Thanks


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

 

I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle.

There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes...

In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work.




Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 4:26 PM Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Mark, you beat me to it !!!
But please remember the input from Bill after my post as they are many variable and the specs I have/gave were not complete, therefore it worked then.

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/2/18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, July 2, 2018, 4:26 PM


 

















From the
forum:

 

Good memory Kent,



I purchased 2 from

Bansbach easylift in Florida 321-253-1999

Esteban Contreras estebanc@...



A1A1N40-250-608/400N 316L Stainless Steel

Meaning a stroke of 250 mm with 608 mm overall

400 NM resistance

The stroke is 8 mm

The Diameter of the cylinder is 19 mm

With 8 mm hinge on each side.



Took a few weeks to build

They were $125 each (and free shipping).



These were the highest standard they are, guaranty for
10.000 opening... 

They also had a cheaper standard line.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico





 



 

With best
regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us




 





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM

To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine
Hatch





 

 







I need to replace the gas struts for the engine
hatch.

 

I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note
that they are rated at 400
Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5"
extended length and
a stroke length of 8".

 

The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted
connections.  They
seem to come in clevis and ball joint.

 

Does anyone have a source reference?

 

Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Mark, you beat me to it !!!
But please remember the input from Bill after my post as they are many variable and the specs I have/gave were not complete, therefore it worked then.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/2/18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, July 2, 2018, 4:26 PM


 

















From the
forum:

 

Good memory Kent,



I purchased 2 from

Bansbach easylift in Florida 321-253-1999

Esteban Contreras estebanc@easylift.com



A1A1N40-250-608/400N 316L Stainless Steel

Meaning a stroke of 250 mm with 608 mm overall

400 NM resistance

The stroke is 8 mm

The Diameter of the cylinder is 19 mm

With 8 mm hinge on each side.



Took a few weeks to build

They were $125 each (and free shipping).



These were the highest standard they are, guaranty for
10.000 opening... 

They also had a cheaper standard line.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico





 



 

With best
regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us




 





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]

Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine
Hatch





 

 







I need to replace the gas struts for the engine
hatch.

 

I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note
that they are rated at 400
Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5"
extended length and
a stroke length of 8".

 

The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted
connections.  They
seem to come in clevis and ball joint.

 

Does anyone have a source reference?

 

Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

karkauai
 

Should have known it was you, Alex.  You are the gift that keeps on giving!

Kent


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

I searched car parts of various makes and models till I found some that fitted. I went around all the car businesses in Noumea to find ours. They've done about 4 years so far and going well. Im sure the same would apply elsewhere.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 03 July 2018 at 07:47 "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch.


I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8".


The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections.  They seem to come in clevis and ball joint.


Does anyone have a source reference?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

karkauai
 

Hi Duane, I am not on my boat for a couple of weeks, but I ordered mine from a company recommended on this forum.  Reasonably priced, stainless, quick service and shipping, and fits well.  I’m sure you can find the conversation with a bit of searching..

Kent Robertson
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch.


I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8".


The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections.  They seem to come in clevis and ball joint.


Does anyone have a source reference?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Mark Erdos
 

From the forum:

 

Good memory Kent,

I purchased 2 from
Bansbach easylift in Florida 321-253-1999
Esteban Contreras estebanc@...

A1A1N40-250-608/400N 316L Stainless Steel
Meaning a stroke of 250 mm with 608 mm overall
400 NM resistance
The stroke is 8 mm
The Diameter of the cylinder is 19 mm
With 8 mm hinge on each side.

Took a few weeks to build
They were $125 each (and free shipping).

These were the highest standard they are, guaranty for 10.000 opening... 
They also had a cheaper standard line.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

 

 

I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch.

 

I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8".

 

The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections.  They seem to come in clevis and ball joint.

 

Does anyone have a source reference?

 

Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Gas Struts for Engine Hatch

Duane Siegfri
 

I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch.


I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8".


The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections.  They seem to come in clevis and ball joint.


Does anyone have a source reference?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer

 

Photographs are digital-universal translators.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 11:29 AM mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hanspeter,


It is a direct answer to the original question posed by David in the post that started the thread:

"Does anyone know the trick to opening the GROHE shower mixer for servicing?"

That is literally "the trick" to opening the shower mixer then there is no screw at the top.  You use a screwdriver to pry it off.  Given that this forum is comprised of people from all around the world, many of whom are not native English speakers, I find that posting pictures in addition to text can be very helpful, even for something as "simple" as a water faucet service.

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer

mfmcgovern@...
 

Hanspeter,

It is a direct answer to the original question posed by David in the post that started the thread:

"Does anyone know the trick to opening the GROHE shower mixer for servicing?"

That is literally "the trick" to opening the shower mixer then there is no screw at the top.  You use a screwdriver to pry it off.  Given that this forum is comprised of people from all around the world, many of whom are not native English speakers, I find that posting pictures in addition to text can be very helpful, even for something as "simple" as a water faucet service.

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: GP150 GPS Data Output Fault

Sv Garulfo
 


Thanks Dean, it’s very useful information; I still need to learn a lot about boat electronics. 

Yes, my goal is to have a redundant chart plotter / navigation tool and it’ll be a good project to get more familiar with the system. 

I’ll get started on the practical implementation when we get back to the boat at the end of August and will report back my findings. 

Fair winds and good luck in getting your GPS fixed

Thomad
GARULFO
A54-122
Curacao 



On Mon, 2 Jul 2018 at 15:01, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Thomas,

MFD is configured by using the Installation Wizard to output the following NMEA 0183 sentences on NMEA0183 Port 2. (Installation Guide doc from Furuno is quite good).
a. BWC/BWR (Bearing/Distance to Active Waypoint)
b. GGA (Position Fix)
c. HDG (Compass Heading, Deviation and Magnetic Variation)
d. HDT (Present True Heading)
e. RMB (Waypoint Information)
f. RMC (Time, Date, Position, Course, Speed and MagVar), 
g. VTG (Track and Ground Speed)
h. ZDA (UTC Time, Date and Local Timezone)

Wiring
The Data Port 2 connections from the MFD are available inside the Junction Box behind the instrument console. If your set up is the same as mine, you will find the red and red/white connection wires from the Port 2 output unused, but already connected to a 'chocolate block' (terminal block).  Its a trivial matter to connect up in that JB. Wiring diagram in the Furuno MFD installation manual describes the cable details.

Interesting question about your WiFi gateway.  The simplest way to make the data available externally is from that Port 2 MFD connection, it will output just about everything you could need. However, if you are trying to access data when the MFD is NOT operational then you'll need to source from the Hydra CPU.  Assuming your GP-150 is connected to the Hydra CPU (as per my original Amel setup) then the Hydra should echo position and time, as well as providing its native wind data, depth and STW. You will have no heading based information because the PG500 compass is connected to the MFD directly.

I understand the Hydra CPU only has one NMEA output, and this is connected to the MFD Port 2 Inputs.  You can piggy-back a connection, but for permanent use I would try to find a proper 0183 sharing device (one input - two outputs, I haven't looked but I'm sure they must be available). One problem you might find is that a dead/un-powered MFD may affect the shared output and wont give the fault-tolerance i think you are looking for. In this case you'd need to disconnect the faulty MFD port 2 input connection. (Can be done inside that Junction Box I mentioned).

Hope that helps, feel free to email me directly if you want to talk in deeper detail.
I've now mapped out the wiring/interconnections of my system on paper, and when I have some time I'll prepare a full system schematic and share it. 

Cheers
Dean

SY Stella
Amel 54 #154

.


Re: GP150 GPS Data Output Fault

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Thomas,

MFD is configured by using the Installation Wizard to output the following NMEA 0183 sentences on NMEA0183 Port 2. (Installation Guide doc from Furuno is quite good).
a. BWC/BWR (Bearing/Distance to Active Waypoint)
b. GGA (Position Fix)
c. HDG (Compass Heading, Deviation and Magnetic Variation)
d. HDT (Present True Heading)
e. RMB (Waypoint Information)
f. RMC (Time, Date, Position, Course, Speed and MagVar), 
g. VTG (Track and Ground Speed)
h. ZDA (UTC Time, Date and Local Timezone)

Wiring
The Data Port 2 connections from the MFD are available inside the Junction Box behind the instrument console. If your set up is the same as mine, you will find the red and red/white connection wires from the Port 2 output unused, but already connected to a 'chocolate block' (terminal block).  Its a trivial matter to connect up in that JB. Wiring diagram in the Furuno MFD installation manual describes the cable details.

Interesting question about your WiFi gateway.  The simplest way to make the data available externally is from that Port 2 MFD connection, it will output just about everything you could need. However, if you are trying to access data when the MFD is NOT operational then you'll need to source from the Hydra CPU.  Assuming your GP-150 is connected to the Hydra CPU (as per my original Amel setup) then the Hydra should echo position and time, as well as providing its native wind data, depth and STW. You will have no heading based information because the PG500 compass is connected to the MFD directly.

I understand the Hydra CPU only has one NMEA output, and this is connected to the MFD Port 2 Inputs.  You can piggy-back a connection, but for permanent use I would try to find a proper 0183 sharing device (one input - two outputs, I haven't looked but I'm sure they must be available). One problem you might find is that a dead/un-powered MFD may affect the shared output and wont give the fault-tolerance i think you are looking for. In this case you'd need to disconnect the faulty MFD port 2 input connection. (Can be done inside that Junction Box I mentioned).

Hope that helps, feel free to email me directly if you want to talk in deeper detail.
I've now mapped out the wiring/interconnections of my system on paper, and when I have some time I'll prepare a full system schematic and share it. 
Cheers
Dean

SY Stella
Amel 54 #154
.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: GP150 fault - reconfigured

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi Dean,

Many thanks for the detailed explanation!

Re point 5, it would be interesting to have the details of the wiring and MFD configuration. 

On a side note, I will be looking to add a NMEA to WiFi gateway to feed data to phone/tablet apps. Do you have a quick answer for the best wires to get NMEA into that gateway? Ideally GPS/Hydra/AIS data would be available even if/when the navnet isn’t working. 


Best,
Thomas 
GARULFO
A54-122
Curacao


On Sun, 1 Jul 2018 at 15:46, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

So, the solution ...


1. I have removed the GP-150 from the system, and will send it off to Furuno for repair as suggested by Bill and Alex. I’m cruising so that could take some months to coordinate!

2. I have reconfigured the MFD12 chart plotter to output GPS, Time, Heading, Motion and Waypoint data on NMEA0183 port 2.

3. I have connected MFD port 2 output to both the Hydra and the ICOM 505. (Port 2 output was previously unused and Port 2 input is already connected to Hydra output, so that is a sensible connection).

4. Hydra and ICOM now both correctly display position and time. 

5. Hydra now displays heading and waypoint information, and can correctly display wind direction etc. 

6. When the GP150 comes back repaired I will slot it back into the system, wired to the MFD and Icom as before, but I intend to leave the MFD feeding the Hydra as I have it now.

Point 5 above solves the problem I posted about last year where Hydra would only display angles relative to the boat. It can now also display correct wind direction as well as the waypoint data. Happy to share the wiring and MFD configuration changes as required.

Cheers
Dean








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer [5 Attachments]

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Mark
unly to understand your service practice on a simple water faucet. On your 2 nd pic you show us the faucet end with your screwdriver in the thread.
what is the purpose of that ?
Regards
Hanspeter
Tamango 2
SM16

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 01.07.2018 um 17:55 schrieb mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

The aft shower unit in my SM had developed a small leak.  I found this thread when researching how to open it up.  However, the Grohe shower unit in my SM is a little different from the one in the link that Alan posted.  Mine does not have a screw holding the ON/OFF cap in place.  It is just pressed on so I had to use a screwdriver to gently pry it off.  Upon disassembly I found that the ON/OFF cartridge had cracked.  There were some numbers engraved on the cracked cartridge but none of them appeared to be the part number.  I used Google images to find the closest visual match.  I got lucky and guessed right. The part number for the ON/OFF cartridge for my Grohe shower unit is 45882000.  I found them on Amazon for about $20 but they also have them at Home Depot for the same price:  https://www.homedepot.com /p/GROHE-Ceramic-Headpart-45882000/204193498.  


Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

17441 - 17460 of 57921