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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls
Stephen Davis
Hey Craig, I actually could use both parts, as I see several impending failures. If you can have some made, please count me in on that. Thanks, Steve
On Jul 3, 2018, at 10:18, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls
Steve and John, Do you only need the chrome looking handle part (which is plastic), as I do, or do you also need the brown plastic latching part? I'm looking into having some made, but only need handles. Craig Briggs, SN68, Boca Raton, FL I need some as well, as I suspect every older SM and Santorin owner does. I’ve been looking for a couple of years with no success. Steve Davis Aloha SM 72 Hawaii
---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote : Maud informed me that Amel no longer has the old push-button rectangular drawer pulls. Has anyone found a source or a good replacement? Many thanks, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls
Stephen Davis
I need some as well, as I suspect every older SM and Santorin owner does. I’ve been looking for a couple of years with no success. Steve Davis Aloha SM 72 Hawaii
On Jul 3, 2018, at 08:25, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls
John Clark
I have one or two spares, but would like to purchase some more as well.
John SV Annie SM 37 Le Marin, Martinique
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Re: IMPORTANT - Dessalator JIC Flare fittings on High Pressure Hoses + More
John Clark
Thanks Bill,
I am putting my watermaker back together finally, after an 13 month delay....darned hurricanes. I assembled the membranes and dry fitted everything to do a first run test. I didn't use any sealant on the flares and had no leaks there at 60 Bar. Only ran the unit for a few minutes to test the rebuild pump and determine if there were any gross leakage issues so can't say if the Locktite is needed or not. I will apply some when I am satisfied the system is ready to run. A word of caution, I had new HP hoses made up in a shop in the US. They reused the end fittings but did not reapply them to the new hoses correctly. They did this behind the counter where I did not observe, again we should watch the workers. The fitting near the HP pump leaked on the second application of pressure around 20Bar. Upon inspection we found the inner hose lining cut away to make the fitting slide in easier. The tech never disassembled the fitting and simply shoved the hose into the metal while turning it. We were lucky that I am used to commissioning new engineering projects and want eyes on all hoses and fittings until broken in. We bought ready made HP hoses at Caraib Marine which eliminated entirely the questionable refitted hoses. John SV Annie SM 37 Le Marin, Martinique
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Drawer/cupboard pulls
Maud informed me that Amel no longer has the old push-button rectangular drawer pulls. Has anyone found a source or a good replacement? Many thanks, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
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Dessalator DUO 160 Wiring Connections
pstas2003 <no_reply@...>
Fellow forum members,
I won’t bore you with the whole story, but I have to try new capacitors in my DUO 160 watermaker motor. The last person that worked on it, disconnected the old ones so I am not sure of the wiring connections to install the new ones. Dessalator provided me with a wiring diagram for the AC connections, but when I requested a diagram for the capacitors, all they were willing to do was refer me to the diagram on the inside of the cover plate (which is not clear to me). As I am completely inept when it comes to all things electric, I was hoping one of you fine Amelians could hold my hand and provide me with a simplistic diagram of all the connections, AC as well as those for the capacitors. Thank you to all for past and present favors. This forum provides me with so much help and guidance. All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Cruising New England www.RitaKathryn.com
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
greatketch@...
I'll definitely second what Pat has said here.
Removing the thermostat should only ever VERY short term fix to limp home because the thermostat is stuck closed. Running a diesel without a thermostat will cause serious damage from an operating temperature that is much too low. Removing a thermostat to fix an undiagnosed cause of overheating would be a very dangerous thing to do. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD.
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Re: Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Duane Siegfri
Thanks for the help to everyone who responded.
Duane
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
Patrick McAneny
Olivier, Removing the thermostat would not change the flow direction of the water and generally just would not be a good idea. The engine would not heat up as quickly,and may not ever rise to the correct temp. ,remember diesel do not like to run cool.Removing the thermostat would not correct your problem, unless you have a bad thermostat,and then it should be replaced ,not removed. Do what you will, but it only takes 15 minutes to remove the heat exchanger and it may just need to be cleaned out,problem solved , if its the seal then order it , problem solved, I would not wait to resolve your issue, but that me.
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Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message----- From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 8:21 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster Thanks a lot. That does make it clearer.
I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass.
The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T
Olivier
SM Alpha
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
I recall several old posts about "bulging" fiberglass in the area of the struts (and elsewhere) being the embedded carbon steel backing plates having expanded with rust and forcing the fiberglass to "bulge". Not surprising if original bolts removed to replace the struts, allowing water ingress. Similar "bulging" in other areas with backing plates have also been noted. Fiberglass itself, of course, doesn't "bulge". Proper fix is cut out old plate and re-glass (preferably from the back side in the case of the hatch, for cosmetics), not just add exterior plates. Cheers, Craig , SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote : I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle. There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes... In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work. Best, Bill Rouse
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
o_ruhlmann@...
Thanks a lot. That does make it clearer. I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass. The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T Olivier SM Alpha
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
Patrick McAneny
First, you did not post your name , boat or the engine you have , however if you have a Volvo Tmd22 as I do, then this would apply. If you are overheating it would be a good idea to take out your heat exchanger , it may need cleaning and that may be your problem. I had cleaned mine a couple of times ,yet still had over heating. I only now discovered that there is a rubber ring/seal that slides over the tube and seals an opening inside the header tank , that forces the cooling water/antifreeze to flow thru the heat exchanger , rather than some of it to bypass it. That is why it still cooled the water to a point , but as the heat increased with rpms it could not cool it fast enough. I did not know about this seal as it was not on the tube whenever I pulled it out,it had deteriorated and fell apart, I found bits of it in the header tank. So pull the H/E out , if no ring that would be your problem. I also bought new rubber boots for the ends , the original ones were hard and hard to seal. Tip , The boots thru Volvo dealers were $144 each , I determined that my engine is a Perkins M80T and bought two boots from Parts4Engines for $48. for two ,saved $240. , they were more pliable and fit /sealed well, I also bought the seal from them, like $10. Its important that the seal is placed about 1/4 from the aft end so that it contacts with the opening in the header tank and seals it. With a flashlight look inside the tank ,you will see the opening. So check it out , if you have any questions let me know.
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Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message----- From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 5:10 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster Hello Patrick,
My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM.
Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?
Thanks
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
This may help:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Engine%20Repair/
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Curacao www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hello Patrick,
My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM. Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?
Thanks
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Re: Barnacle Buster
o_ruhlmann@...
Hello Patrick, My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM. Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about? Thanks
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle. There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes... In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 4:26 PM Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Mark, you beat me to it !!!
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But please remember the input from Bill after my post as they are many variable and the specs I have/gave were not complete, therefore it worked then. Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/2/18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, July 2, 2018, 4:26 PM From the forum: Good memory Kent, I purchased 2 from Bansbach easylift in Florida 321-253-1999 Esteban Contreras estebanc@easylift.com A1A1N40-250-608/400N 316L Stainless Steel Meaning a stroke of 250 mm with 608 mm overall 400 NM resistance The stroke is 8 mm The Diameter of the cylinder is 19 mm With 8 mm hinge on each side. Took a few weeks to build They were $125 each (and free shipping). These were the highest standard they are, guaranty for 10.000 opening... They also had a cheaper standard line. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico With best regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch. I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8". The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint. Does anyone have a source reference? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Should have known it was you, Alex. You are the gift that keeps on giving!
Kent
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, I searched car parts of various makes and models till I found some that fitted. I went around all the car businesses in Noumea to find ours. They've done about 4 years so far and going well. Im sure the same would apply elsewhere. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 03 July 2018 at 07:47 "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Hi Duane, I am not on my boat for a couple of weeks, but I ordered mine from a company recommended on this forum. Reasonably priced, stainless, quick service and shipping, and fits well. I’m sure you can find the conversation with a bit of searching..
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Kent Robertson Kristy SM243
On Jul 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch. I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8". The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint. Does anyone have a source reference? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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