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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement

Ryan Meador
 

When I was doing holding tank hose work, I found a hairdryer (conveniently provided by Amel, I believe) pointed into the hose did a good job of making it flexible.  If you're trying to remove it, you could pump some hot water through it.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Fri, Jul 6, 2018 at 12:25 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi. I've had no trouble unscrewing  the valve. The hardest part is the hose. Trying to bend it enough to go on. Need to find ways to heat it to soften it.. Recommend new hose while you are at it. I got on ok without removing the pan.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 06 July 2018 at 14:41 "pandmdegroot@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Mark Craig and Gary,
I've ordered the valve, it should be here next week.  My only remaining fear is that the valve is stuck, frozen onto the embedded nipple in the hull. I'll start with penetrating fluid this weekend. If the torque get's high and it doesn't budge, I'll be back on the forum.  Otherwise thanks! You all have provided a big boost of confidence, and the precise knowledge of what to expect.  

BTW.  I do struggle with the search function in Yahoo, both for photos and for topics.

 


 


 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls

John Clark
 

Very goid.  Yes I need the chrome handle part.


On Thu, Jul 5, 2018, 7:11 AM Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I’m in contact with a 3-D printing company in Annapolis.  I’ll send one to them as soon as I get back to the boat in 2 weeks, and let you know what they say.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:43 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Looks like a job for somebody with a 3D printer...  


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to flush Volvo D3-110i-C

ya_fohi
 

Hi all,

I thought I'd post a follow up on this for those who are interested. I pulled a 3:1 solution of BB through the engine and let it stand for 24 hours. Result: problem solved, engine temp is back to normal - 79 - 80°@ 2250rpm.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi bill;

I had the same issue with the pressure switch in our Volvo. If you go through any Volvo dealer, even the main factory they will give you the part number for the non-isolated ground part number. Even if you give them the engine serial number.

The engines are shipped non-isolated from Volvo and they are modified by Volvo France for amel. I was surprised to find out that even though the mods are done by Volvo, the serial number references are not changed.

I found the supplier in France that was referred by AMEL and was able to ship it to Greece.

Let me know if you need help with locating the supplier and I will look through emails and get you the information.

Respectfully;


Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo 
AMEL 54#099


On Jul 5, 2018, at 1:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Does anyone have a part number/source for the two wire temperature sensor on the TMD22? Not the high temperature alarm switch, I need the sender for the temperature gauge?


The "standard" Volvo part was a single wire sensor, and even that one is apparently no longer available from Volvo..


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

Barry Connor
 

Hi again Alan,

Just an update on getting my AMFA bilge pump fixed.
I got the part from Amel, cost with VAT and shipping was US$270.
I have put it back together and now at least I am not hand pumping.
I am most certainly going to order the Viking unit you recommended. It will come from the US and I can have it delivered to my daughter in FL who will bring it to me on her next visit.
I will make sure that I get the extras with the Viking. The diaphragm service kit was going to be about another US$100 from Amel.
Thank’s again for your advise.
Best Regards 

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Trogir. Croatia 


On Jul 1, 2018, at 16:28, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Steve, Thanks I don't know why I could not have found it. Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Jul 1, 2018 9:06 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

 
Here is the link to the 24v model on Amazon.


All the best, 
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
Hilton Head, SC

On Jul 1, 2018, at 7:29 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Alan, Were you able to buy that pump in a 24v . I looked at it on Amazon and only found it in 12v.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Jun 30, 2018 3:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

 
We replaced our bilge pump with a Johnson Power Viking 32 pump
Its max rated flow is 32 l/min.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries for Amel 54

Barry Connor
 

Thank’s Bill,

I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me.
When I purchased the 13 batteries I was not told the difference and bought on price thinking that I was getting a fantastic deal. Looking now I see that the deep cycle batteries are more expensive and are the same lead acid batteries.
By luck I have solar panels which do a great job of topping up to nearly 100%. I have solar panels on my rear arch and on my custom made Bimini. The rear arch panels put out up to 14amp and the panels on the Bimini put out up to 9amp, both sets have very good 24v controllers. I also have a small 12v solar panel on the side of the rear arch for my starter battery with it’s own controller.
My 100amp charger from the generator running for about an hour brings all batteries up close to 90% then the solar panels take over.
It is now 3 years since I put the batteries in and I was told to expect them to last only 3 to 4 years I will keep an eye on them and report back how they do in the coming months.
Thank’s again for your explanation. 

Best Regards 

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Trogir. Croatia 


On Jul 4, 2018, at 17:36, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

When talking about batteries on boats there are so many variations it is hard to get any kind of agreement on anything. Even terminology can be a bit fuzzy.


When talking about batteries, if someone says "ordinary batteries" I would take that to mean standard flooded lead acid batteries. Not AGM, not GEL, etc.

If we are talking about "ordinary" flooded lead acid batteries, they tend to come in two flavors, "starting" and "deep cycle".  The difference is real but it is still a qualitative one, and the dividing line between them is not hard and fixed except in the mind of the marketing department.

In general, starting batteries are optimized to discharge very high amperages very quickly, and for very short periods of time, and then to be recharged quickly.  The lead plates are thinner, closer together, and sometimes more porous. They are designed to discharge a minimum of their capacity before being recharged.  Because of the thinner plates, some (but not all!) tend to be more susceptible to damage from vibration and impact than deep cycle batteries.

Deep cycle batteries are designed to deliver lower power loads for longer times.  The plates are much thicker and denser, and further apart. They tolerate deeper discharges much better.  

There can also be some chemistry differences between the two, but these are the highlights.

The way MOST people use their batteries is to discharge them much deeper than 80%.  If I had to guess, I would say most people typically discharge to 60% or 70%. 50% if they work the batteries really hard. Therefore--for most--people the recommendation to use deep cycle rated batteries is a no-brainer.  Starting batteries will die in this use pattern much earlier, quickly eliminating any initial cost benefit.

But... (there is ALWAYS a "but")
If you really discharge your batteries to no lower than 80% (ever) and then quickly recharge them ALL THE WAY back to 100% then "Starting" batteries might, for you, be a cost effective approach.  Even if not "best" they will not be a disaster.  I am sure you can find people who will give you an absolutely confident answer. They probably know a lot more than I do.

Deep cycle batteries might even have a disadvantage on your boat.  Once they get to 80% state of charge, their charge acceptance rate begins to fall, and it can take a VERY long time to bring them back to full.  Topping of "starting" batteries from 80% to 100% would happen much quicker.

Most recommendations for cruising boat batteries assume a much deeper discharge than you expose your batteries to. 

And there are LOTS of other considerations and alternative, but we can ignore those for now...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi,
Olivier told me to get ordinary lead acid batteries and don’t let them drop below 80%. With running the generator for about 1 hour each morning and then having solar panels I find that I only sometimes run the generator again in the evening.
Are deep cycle regular batteries? I did see that gell batteries are listed as deep cycle.
Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Trogir.  Croatia 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi. I've had no trouble unscrewing  the valve. The hardest part is the hose. Trying to bend it enough to go on. Need to find ways to heat it to soften it.. Recommend new hose while you are at it. I got on ok without removing the pan.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 06 July 2018 at 14:41 "pandmdegroot@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Mark Craig and Gary,
I've ordered the valve, it should be here next week.  My only remaining fear is that the valve is stuck, frozen onto the embedded nipple in the hull. I'll start with penetrating fluid this weekend. If the torque get's high and it doesn't budge, I'll be back on the forum.  Otherwise thanks! You all have provided a big boost of confidence, and the precise knowledge of what to expect.  

BTW.  I do struggle with the search function in Yahoo, both for photos and for topics.

 


 


 
Re: ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement

Peter de Groot
 

Hi Mark Craig and Gary,
I've ordered the valve, it should be here next week.  My only remaining fear is that the valve is stuck, frozen onto the embedded nipple in the hull. I'll start with penetrating fluid this weekend. If the torque get's high and it doesn't budge, I'll be back on the forum.  Otherwise thanks! You all have provided a big boost of confidence, and the precise knowledge of what to expect.  

BTW.  I do struggle with the search function in Yahoo, both for photos and for topics.
Re: ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement

Peter de Groot
 

Hi Mark, Craig and Gary,
Re: ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement

Craig Briggs
 

Peter, 
Mark recommends a Bronze valve (by Groco, although many other brands are out there)  - these are NOT brass and are excellent! 
Gary recommends "Naval Brass" or "Marine Brass".  These also are not (regular) brass and are excellent!
Both are standard for marine use and they contain tin to reduce corrosion. 

The same valves are more readily available in brass - absolutely wrong. The memory jogger for marine use is, "Brass, my ass!"

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <isaac_02906@...> wrote :

Hello Peter,

I just did this job a couple of months ago with the boat in the water.  It was not as difficult or unpleasant as I had expected.  The valve you need can be purchased on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TUNX1IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I took the toilet out (three or four bolts on the base and two hoses to remove) for better access only because a large wrench is required to break the valve free.  The gelcoat must be chipped from the base of the valve prior to removal not only so your wrench will fit, but also so the valve will turn more easily.  There is a male pipe fitting glassed into the hull onto which the female side of the valve threads.  A plastic piece with a hose barb threads into the other side of the valve (I reused mine).  Don't forget the pipe dope or teflon tape as well as the bonding wire.

Mark Isaac
Lulu, SM#391
South Freeport, Maine


---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Peter: 

See this link to the photos section of this forum for details and specifications on this replacement:


If the link doesn't work then go to the photos section and search for holding tank, or valve etc.  There is file folder on this issue.  I do wish folks would post all related photos in folders with appropriate searchable titles rather than by boat name etc.  

I would recommend "marine brass"  or "naval brass" (silver colored valves like Amel originally installed), rather than regular brass valve.  See this link for why this is more resistant to dezincification etc.  http://www.nationalbronze.com/News/what-is-naval-brass/
 The fittings, as noted in the photo file, are BPSS  (British straight pipe thread) so you must use a sealant that will harden somewhat or the new valve will rotate when you actuate the handle.

Good luck, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335   
Just completing hurricane repairs, sitting next to a sister ship,  Amel # 331 "Cloud Street" at Island Marine Inc, at Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM stern bumper

Mark Erdos
 

Contact Amel France. The bumpers go in and out of stock. If there are none available now, check back in a couple of months.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Curacao

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 1:06 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM stern bumper

 

 

The guys at our Marina in Virginia got us a replacement from Amel last summer in a couple of weeks. We don’t know the cost because the previous owner had it replaced after our survey of the boat. It seemed very straight forward from what they stated.

 

Good Luck!

 

Mark

S/V It’s Good

SM #105

Gloucester, VA

 


On Jul 4, 2018, at 7:59 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

After 4 years, the stern bumper on my SM was lost at sea. She was in rough shape and lived a long life. Wondering if anyone had one they wanted to get rid of or had any luck getting a new one from Amel. I read somewhere that a member waited 2 years for one. Thoughts?

 

Bill Maffei

It's all Good 

SM #195
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM stern bumper

Mark Garver
 

The guys at our Marina in Virginia got us a replacement from Amel last summer in a couple of weeks. We don’t know the cost because the previous owner had it replaced after our survey of the boat. It seemed very straight forward from what they stated.

Good Luck!

Mark
S/V It’s Good
SM #105
Gloucester, VA


On Jul 4, 2018, at 7:59 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

After 4 years, the stern bumper on my SM was lost at sea. She was in rough shape and lived a long life. Wondering if anyone had one they wanted to get rid of or had any luck getting a new one from Amel. I read somewhere that a member waited 2 years for one. Thoughts?


Bill Maffei

It's all Good 

SM #195
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] CLIMMA AC on AMEL 54

luvkante
 

Hello friends,

Seems , that I am really a unlucky guy and CLIMMA is not as bad as my experience.

Thank you ALL for your willingness to share YOUR experience.

Now I have to reflect........


Fair winds,

Martin


Am 05.07.2018 um 11:41 schrieb 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hello Martin;


It is unfortunate that you are having so many issues with your Climma. Ours also has been working without any issues in the past 3 years that we have owned her.

Respectfully;


Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B KOKOMO 

On Jul 5, 2018, at 12:17 AM, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Maybe it’s the newer units on Trippin 2008 54 #101 no problem with heat or AC we are the 3rd owners original equipment 

So sorry for your difficulties 
Courtney 


On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:32 AM, luvkante@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everybody,


I am sick and tired of my CLIMMA AC`s on CHIARA. They are constantly quitting their service. I had repaired them so many times since I bought CHIARA new in 2010: electronics defect, fan defect, heater defect, leaks and leaks and leaks........


Does anybody have experience with a new generation of CLIMMA ACs (if there is any) or even better: with a more reliable brand? 

Fit? Installation? Reliability?


I am ready to get rid of them.


Martin

AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

greatketch@...
 

Thanks Pat!  

It does always help to check the Perkins parts. When available, and a match, they are almost always cheaper...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

greatketch@...
 

Thanks Bill R.,

It does look like all the VDO temperatures sensors are electrically identical, and all I have to do is be sure the threads match the thermostat housing.  

Interestingly, the 1/2"MPT style in that EBay listing you posted is on the VDO website as obsolete and no longer manufactured.  If mine turns out to have a 1/2" thread, I think I'll buy two...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

CW Bill Rouse
 

Bill Kinney,

I think what you need is a VDO Isolated Ground sensor. I believe that almost any diesel engine isolated ground sensor will work. Take a look at this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262536815778?rmvSB=true

The above is probably a sensor, but the seller also states "switch." It is only $5.69 plus $1.69 delivery...I would give it a try...be sure to let all of us know if this works for you.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 5:58 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have a part number/source for the two wire temperature sensor on the TMD22? Not the high temperature alarm switch, I need the sender for the temperature gauge?


The "standard" Volvo part was a single wire sensor, and even that one is apparently no longer available from Volvo..


Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Freshwater Pump - pressure sensing mechanical switch

CW Bill Rouse
 

Colin,

In the following, I assume that you have an unmodified Amel OEM 66b (standard) or 88b (optional) fresh water pump.

Square D is worldwide and commonly used on water-well pumps throughout the world. It is a very good and reliable pressure switch with a life of around 10-15 years. It difficult to get adjusted correctly. If you search online, you will find several videos and Square D instructions. In my Amel School Book I have 10 pages devoted to the Amel OEM fresh water pump and pressure switch, which I will summarize for you.

Your Amel OEM freshwater pump originally cost 600-900 € and is completely rebuildable. There are several things that could be wrong which I will list in order of probability:
  1. The wet-side of the Square D electro-mechanical valve is clogged with debris
  2. The one-way valve is either worn out or compromised with a piece of debris.
  3. There is a suction leak
  4. The impeller is broken or otherwise compromised.
  5. The impeller key has moved
  6. The Square D mechanical switches need adjustment 
  7. The Square D mechanical/electrical switches have electrically failed (poor contact).
I think that you may have started at the bottom, rather than the top of the above list. Also, it sounds like you might have made an error in wiring to the switch...there are 3 wires to the switch: 24VDC positive, 24VDC negative, and 24VDC positive output to the pilot light on the 24VDC panel.

I have more information than above, you might want to email me directly at ADMbill "at" amelschool.com

The Jabsco pump you discussed is basically a throw-away pump. If you go that route, buy 2 pumps so that you have a replacement when the first fails. Your AMEL OEM pump is no longer available, but very good freshwater pumps from MARCO (www.marco.it) are available. I would suggest the MARCO UP12/A Water pressure system PTFE gears 9.5 gpm. Plus ATX2 Stainless steel accumulator. Part N 16468013 & 16508110...about 340€ for the pump and 80€ for the accumulator...OR you could use UP6/A Water pressure system 6.9 gpm. Part N 16462013 & 16508110 ...about 245€ for the pump and 80€ for the accumulator. Email Email export "at" marco.it BTW, Amel School Clients get a 20% Discount at MARCO in Europe/worldwide and the US through their distributor mate-usa.com.

I hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 12:36 PM colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We have had as issue with our freshwater pump remaining on when it shouldn't, and have tried all potential remedies we could find in the files on this forum, but to no avail. Amel does not have a new one available for us despite the same switch being used on both the 53's and 54's and possibly beyond.


The pump, one way valve, and pressure cylinder are all working as designed, so we removed the housing off the pressure switch itself, and initially fiddled with the settings (by screwing both adjustment bolts in and out in different sequences) which is pretty much a black art as we have no manual showing how to set this mechanism (min pressure for pump to switch on and max pressure for pump to switch off).


Having no luck with this today we took the entire mechanical switch apart and on putting it back together now nothing works! Such is life!


A fellow Amel 54 cruiser here (previously owned a SM from new for 8 yea rs) informs me that he is aware that many other owners have done away with the original freshwater pump in favour of the Jabsco freshwater pump, (without the pressure cylinder) and actually prefer those allbeit they are slightly more noisy. Aparently they provide a smooth flow even without the pressure balancing cylinder.


With no suitable Jabsco pumps available here in Mauritius, I am looking at temporary alternatives but thought there may be some wisdom in this group about: 

1) someone has a manual for this switch and could kindly send it to us at svislandpearl@...; or 

2) some of you may have encountered this problem before, and already made step by step instructions on correct re-assembly/parts list, as well as adjustment advice for the mechanical/electrical pressure switch to work correctly; and/or 

3) some of you have already converted to the Jabsco (or equivalent) pumps and could offer some warnings and/or advice regardin g max psi model to purchase, as well as how you best plumbed it in.


In our usual style with backups for everything on Island Pearl II, I am planning to both fix/replace the existing Amel supplied unit,  and also add a second "jabsco style" option with plumbing done so that we have a quick flick over switch to use the other if either fails in future.


Fair winds & following seas


Colin, SV Island Pearl II; SM #332

Mauritius

svislandpearl.com
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, just noticed that they have it for the TMD22 as well ,same price. I believe they ship from UK , but I still received my parts within a week.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 6:58 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

 
Does anyone have a part number/source for the two wire temperature sensor on the TMD22? Not the high temperature alarm switch, I need the sender for the temperature gauge?

The "standard" Volvo part was a single wire sensor, and even that one is apparently no longer available from Volvo..

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Parts4Engines have the two wire sender for the M80T , should be the same , for $16.68 . 
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 6:58 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo temperature sensor

 
Does anyone have a part number/source for the two wire temperature sensor on the TMD22? Not the high temperature alarm switch, I need the sender for the temperature gauge?

The "standard" Volvo part was a single wire sensor, and even that one is apparently no longer available from Volvo..

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Drawer/cupboard pulls

karkauai
 

I’m in contact with a 3-D printing company in Annapolis.  I’ll send one to them as soon as I get back to the boat in 2 weeks, and let you know what they say.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:43 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Looks like a job for somebody with a 3D printer...  


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
16901 - 16920 of 57451