Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: trasmission oil cooler
eric <kimberlite@...>
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Re: trasmission oil cooler
bowman dc60-xcc
Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Stove won't stay lit
Ryan Meador
Hi Craig, I guess I should have taken a closeup of the burner! There is something special about the hole lined up with the thermocouple (if it is actually a thermocouple? I was thinking it might be a mercury-filled tube). Both burners have this feature, and the rings are notched so they only fit in one orientation -- the orientation that has this feature lined up with the thermocouple. Flame does come out of it, but in a slightly different pattern than the other holes. The thermocouple is definitely in the flame. There is a tiny bit of slop in both the base and the burner ring. I have noticed in the past that if the base is rotated to touch the thermocouple, it won't stay lit. I assume this is because the base acts as a heat sink and prevents it from reaching the necessary temperature. I have verified that is not the cause of my current problem. Thank you for your help! I'll post a closeup of the burner tonight if this is still unsolved when I get home. Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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trasmission oil cooler
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Re: Stove won't stay lit
Hi Ryan and Kelly,
It's hard to see from the picture, which I magnified, but it looks like there is a gap in the ring of flame holes right across from the tip of the thermocouple. If that's the case, can you see one of the flame cones actually touching the thermocouple when it's on? If there is a gap, maybe you can just rotate then ring, which may have come loose and rotated a bit, causing the problem. Just a guess. (On mine the holes are continuous all around - no gap.) Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Brunswick, GA ---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote : Hi all, The right (larger) burner on my stove has been getting more and more difficult to keep lit, and the last few days it has been impossible. I think there is something wrong with the flame-out detection. It lights fine, but within a few seconds of me letting go of the knob it goes out, no matter how long I hold it to pre-heat. The left burner and the oven work fine. I can't find any identifying info on the stove that would allow me to search for further info, like instructions on adjusting it or replacement parts. Can any of you identify it from the attached photos? Do you have a recommendation on how to fix this problem? Thanks, Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Stove won't stay lit
Ryan Meador
Hi all, The right (larger) burner on my stove has been getting more and more difficult to keep lit, and the last few days it has been impossible. I think there is something wrong with the flame-out detection. It lights fine, but within a few seconds of me letting go of the knob it goes out, no matter how long I hold it to pre-heat. The left burner and the oven work fine. I can't find any identifying info on the stove that would allow me to search for further info, like instructions on adjusting it or replacement parts. Can any of you identify it from the attached photos? Do you have a recommendation on how to fix this problem? Thanks, Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
amelyachtowners@...
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /4714966D-619B-4FF1-8150-FBF7B7FD7965.jpeg Uploaded by : mariner62@ymail.com <trifin@soundthinking.com.au> Description : Correct Dipstick Drawing for ZF25 You can access this file at the URL: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/4714966D-619B-4FF1-8150-FBF7B7FD7965.jpeg To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398 Regards, mariner62@ymail.com <trifin@soundthinking.com.au>
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Hi Mark,
You measured from the correct place. HSW is an old Hurth part number, I don’t know any more than that. At 100mm down it should have been showing a little low on the dipstick? Mohammad, Yes the dipstick should not be screwed home when measuring. Cheers Dean
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Hi Mohammad,
I was initially given by ZF the capacity of 2l and a fluid level of 90.5mm below the top of the dipstick mating surface. When I told them that those two things were mutually exclusive, and it either needed to be 110mm (if 2l was correct) or 3l (if 90.5mm level was correct) they dug deep, and eventually came back to say the level was correct but the quantity was incorrect. ZF were extremely good in their support. I was most impressed. Cheers Dean
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Mark;
Keep in mind that ZF25 manual states to measure the oil level WITHOUT screwing the dipstick in. (Hopefully this is correct!) I measured from the first screw thread to the low and full levels on the dipstick and came up with measurements that matched the correct measurements that Dean had stated within a couple of millimeters.
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 9:31 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Dean,
Sorry for all your troubles but thank you for your information. My wife had me check the dipstick this morning. Oddly, as many things on this boat seem to be, the part number on this dipstick reads: HSW 530 A1-HS 450A2. After running the engine for two minutes and shifting from forward to reverse several times the oil level read full on this dipstick. Absent the part numbers you referenced I measured the oil level at approximately 100 mm from the sealing face and added oil accordingly. The transmission model is ZF25 2.0.
Mark & Debbie Mueller Brass Ring A54 – 68 Groegetown, S.C.
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Re: Masse Light and March Pump
greatketch@...
Duane,
The magnetic drive would have no effect on the case ground. It would seem, for some reason, the case of your pump has a connection of some sort with the DC positive wire. Lots of things could cause this from although on a new pump, I would suspect either dampness or an assembly issue. To avoid stray current issues, I would disconnect the bonding wire from this pump. On the fresh water pump like this there are minimal chances for corrosion. With the bonding wire disconnected, I would use a volt meter to check the voltage between battery negative and the pump motor housing. If that shows 24volts, then there is a problem with the pump motor. For what it’s worth, on the latest models of these pumps in the larger sizes, Marco has introduced a remote control panel that shows run status, duplicating the functionality of the original Amel "Pump-running" light, with some other features as well. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA
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Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Mark & Debbie Mueller
Dean,
Sorry for all your troubles but thank you for your information. My wife had me check the dipstick this morning. Oddly, as many things on this boat seem to be, the part number on this dipstick reads: HSW 530 A1-HS 450A2. After running the engine for two minutes and shifting from forward to reverse several times the oil level read full on this dipstick. Absent the part numbers you referenced I measured the oil level at approximately 100 mm from the sealing face and added oil accordingly. The transmission model is ZF25 2.0.
Mark & Debbie Mueller Brass Ring A54 – 68 Groegetown, S.C.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure
And as I tell our girls when checking the fluid levels be careful on rescrewing in the dipstick. Thread mismatch and stripping has great consequences!!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jul 24, 2018, at 8:34 AM, 'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Plastic caps over nuts securing windshield
Kaplan,Andre
I’m looking for replacements of the plastic caps which cover the nuts that secure the windshield.
Has anyone replaced these caps? Can someone send me the email contact for the parts department at Amel? Is it “Maude??” who I should contact? Thanks Andre Kaplan Mango 7188
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure [3 Attachments]
Mohammad Shirloo
It would appear that some kind of transmission pressure loss alarm would
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
be appropriate since the results of a simple error of not tightening the filter cap (or other source of loss) would be catastrophic. Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099 ________________________________ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 8:02 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure [3 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Porter McRoberts included below] Dean this was nearly precisely our story of failure on the way to virgins from USA. New tranny is an easy fix. Out and in a day. I helped the guy in st Thomas and learned a lot. Once a new one, bulletproof. But exactly the same symptoms. The pump looses pressure and the brake calipers close and then it's clattering of gears and smoke dust from the pads. Luckily I (or my crew with 12 and 15year old hearing) could catch it in about 3-5seconds. I remember sitting on anchor in the middle of the intercostal for a day in Fort Lauderdale then getting my neighbors to pull us back home with their dinghies. Talk about demoralizing, all while moving onto the boat and selling the house etc. Interestingly it started after an oil filter change, (after an oil cooler change)The mechanic in Fort Lauderdale did not tighten the filter lid enough. Then the pump (suction) on the filter and dipstick side would fail and the pressure would drop and then the problem would arrive (loss of pump pressure, calipers failing and closing and then gear chattering etc). Lots of help from Bill Rouse on getting focused on where the problem was. It was fixed (temporarily) by an astute old greyhaired navy transmission mechanic who immediately called the problem. He measured the pressure at the caliper hydraulic outlet. Upon engine start ok., but then would drop 30 seconds later, this indicated to him a seal failure. He tightened the oil filter cap and presto problem solved. Until... 4 days of motoring out to the 65 from Fort Lauderdale and then failure. Despite tightening, and retightening and o-ring changes etc. We limped into st Thomas hoping for a few minutes of power ( as I tightened with great force on the oil filter cover) to get into a slip. Luckily we had 35 kts of wind to get us there almost too fast, but getting in a slip with that amount of wind and tranny as it was was a sphincter workout. But all ok. Interesting talking to the ZF dealer who had sent the "greyhair." (Now I don't trust non-greyhairs) They, the dealer (historically) would take all ZF25s and mill out another 1/100th of an inch on the body of the tranny where then oil filter cover would fit, to allow the filter cover to seat correctly. ZF finally recognized this and then changed it. My new tranny oil filter cover sits lower. Looking at the old and new side by side. Now: No suction. No problems. Not sure if that helps. We had about 1600 hours on the engine at tranny failure. The ZF trannies are common.. I bought one from Fort Lauderdale and had it shipped from the ZF dealer. It turned out to be very inexpensive by st Thomas standards. I think around 2k for tranny and shipping. If my memory serves. I hope this helps. I, like your admiral had lost much faith, but I've regained it! Tell me if you want the ZF contact Porter, (Helen and Grace and Lilly, what amazing crew) IBIS. 54-152 vista mar marina panama. Begin forwarded message: From: "trifin@soundthinking.com.au [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Date: July 24, 2018 at 5:08:54 AM EST To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Hi All, After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed. I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later. I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply. I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem. Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat. We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox. I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. So, the symptoms... Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm. I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control. It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?) I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing. We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using. We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots. After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot. After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed. The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic. There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid level was still ok. I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back. We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina. On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots. On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing. If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller. After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm. Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing. The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble. All comments/suggestions appreciated. We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney! Thanks all. Dean SY Stella Amel 54#154
On Jul 24, 2018, at 5:08 AM, trifin@soundthinking.com.au
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hi All, After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed. I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later. I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply. I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem. Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat. We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon. However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox. I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. So, the symptoms... Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm. I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control. It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?) I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing. We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using. We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots. After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot. After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed. The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic. There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid level was still ok. I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back. We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina. On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots. On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing. If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller. After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm. Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing. The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble. All comments/suggestions appreciated. We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney! Thanks all. Dean SY Stella Amel 54#154
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Mohammad Shirloo
Hello Dean;
Thank you for taking the time for posting this critical information.
We have dipstick part number 3311 301 003, which would be the correct dipstick according to the information you posted. Can you please let us know if you received this information directly from the manufacturer or another source?
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 6:38 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
IMPORTANT NOTICE
To all Amel Owners,
I have recently had a failure event with my ZF25 gearbox. You can read about it further in Topic #41215 on this forum. In that failure event, the dipstick for my ZF25 was damaged, and so I needed some means of checking fluid level until a new dipstick was delivered.
I then embarked on a very confusing 2 week journey of trying to determine independently where the correct fluid level should be in a ZF25 gearbox without reference to a dipstick. The results of this are very significant for Amel owners with ZF25 gearboxes.
Please note the following:
1. ZF Marine have informed me that ALL user manuals, parts lists, service manuals, brochures, marketing specs, website data etc for the ZF25 gearbox which state that the fluid capacity of the gearbox is 2.0Litres, are all incorrect.
2. The correct fluid level for the ZF25 gearbox is 3.0L, but this figure only appears in the original installation drawing of the ZF25 (in Italian), which ZF sent to me and I will post on the forum files archive.
3. Some owners will already suspect that it is really a 3L box because they will add 2.0L as specified in the manual, and then wonder why they needed to add another full litre to bring it up to the top of their dipstick. These owners have a "short" dipstick and can rest easy.
4. However, some owners will add 2.0l and find that its already close to the full mark on their dipstick. If you are one of those owners then this message is addressed to you.
5. I know that some Amel 54 models have been supplied with an incorrect dipstick. This dipstick is too long and reads "full" when 2 litres of fluid is present in the gearbox. These boats have been operating one litre short of fluid, which equates to a fluid level which is about 20mm too low.
7. I do not know who made the change of dipstick in the production process of these boats, but I can guess why they made the change, that is to try and match the disptick to the 2litre capacity widely published by ZF.
I urge all owners to check your dipstick against the following information:
If you have a dipstick with part numbers
3312-301-028 or 3312-201-002
then you have the wrong dipstick and your ZF25 is at risk of damage due to low fluid level.
If you have a dipstick with part numbers
3311-301-003 or 3311-201-001
then you have the correct dipstick and you will have the correct 3.0l of fluid in your gearbox.
If you have already experienced the failure and have replaced your gearbox with a new one from ZF, then you will most likely have the correct dipstick.
Finally, as an absolute measure, the correct fluid level is between 84.5mm and 96.5mm from the mating face of the dipstick hole.
I do not know if this problem ever affected SM production, but I do know that the documentation error from ZF was present in 2002.
I am collating a private list of hull numbers which have been affected by this issue, and I would really appreciate if owners would email me privately on the email below or simply post here on the forum.
I'd like to know your hull number and : 1. whether you have the long (incorrect) dipstick and if you've had transmission troubles, 2. If you have the short (correct) dipstick, have you renewed your transmission (or dipstick) since the the boat was delivered new.
Thank you Dr Dean Gillies SY STELLA AMEL 54 #154 +61 411 967106 trifin (at) soundthinking (dot) com (dot) au
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure
Dean this was nearly precisely our story of failure on the way to virgins from USA. New tranny is an easy fix. Out and in a day. I helped the guy in st Thomas and learned a lot. Once a new one, bulletproof. But exactly the same symptoms. The pump looses pressure and the brake calipers close and then it’s clattering of gears and smoke dust from the pads. Luckily I (or my crew with 12 and 15year old hearing) could catch it in about 3-5seconds. I remember sitting on anchor in the middle of the intercostal for a day in Fort Lauderdale then getting my neighbors to pull us back home with their dinghies. Talk about demoralizing, all while moving onto the boat and selling the house etc. Interestingly it started after an oil filter change, (after an oil cooler change)The mechanic in Fort Lauderdale did not tighten the filter lid enough. Then the pump (suction) on the filter and dipstick side would fail and the pressure would drop and then the problem would arrive (loss of pump pressure, calipers failing and closing and then gear chattering etc). Lots of help from Bill Rouse on getting focused on where the problem was. It was fixed (temporarily) by an astute old greyhaired navy transmission mechanic who immediately called the problem. He measured the pressure at the caliper hydraulic outlet. Upon engine start ok., but then would drop 30 seconds later, this indicated to him a seal failure. He tightened the oil filter cap and presto problem solved. Until... 4 days of motoring out to the 65 from Fort Lauderdale and then failure. Despite tightening, and retightening and o-ring changes etc. We limped into st Thomas hoping for a few minutes of power ( as I tightened with great force on the oil filter cover) to get into a slip. Luckily we had 35 kts of wind to get us there almost too fast, but getting in a slip with that amount of wind and tranny as it was was a sphincter workout. But all ok. Interesting talking to the ZF dealer who had sent the “greyhair.” (Now I don’t trust non-greyhairs) They, the dealer (historically) would take all ZF25s and mill out another 1/100th of an inch on the body of the tranny where then oil filter cover would fit, to allow the filter cover to seat correctly. ZF finally recognized this and then changed it. My new tranny oil filter cover sits lower. Looking at the old and new side by side. Now: No suction. No problems. Not sure if that helps. We had about 1600 hours on the engine at tranny failure. The ZF trannies are common. I bought one from Fort Lauderdale and had it shipped from the ZF dealer. It turned out to be very inexpensive by st Thomas standards. I think around 2k for tranny and shipping. If my memory serves. I hope this helps. I, like your admiral had lost much faith, but I’ve regained it! Tell me if you want the ZF contact Porter, (Helen and Grace and Lilly, what amazing crew) IBIS. 54-152 vista mar marina panama.
Begin forwarded message: From: "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> Date: July 24, 2018 at 5:08:54 AM EST To: <amelyachtowners@...> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Failure Reply-To: amelyachtowners@... Hi All, After load testing this morning I am 99% sure my ZF25 transmission has failed. I know the root cause of the failure, and I will publish separately on that issue later. I'm told by the ZF representatives that a new transmission will take at least 3 months to supply. I don't want to entertain re-conditioning of this box because I know the root cause of the problem. Our sailing season is over before it started, the admiral is devastated and has lost all confidence in the boat. We will most likely winterise the boat and go home soon.
However, before I do that I'd like to convert that 99% to 100%, to be absolutely certain that the problem is the gearbox. I'm finding it difficult to get the required level of professional support here in Kalamata, so I'm hoping for some sage guidance from the group. So, the symptoms... Two weeks ago we started motoring due to no wind. Flat sea, running about 1700-1800rpm. I started hearing some "modulation" of the engine tone, like wandering RPM. I also noticed the disappearance of a "rattle/chatter" sound which has always come from our Morse Control. It's not a loud rattle, but is clearly transmitted from the gearbox up the gearshift cable and resonates from the hand control unit. (Is that a standard thing - or an early symptom of a gearbox problem?) I thought we had something stuck on the propeller, so we stopped and I checked it. Nothing. We started again and the boat would not run up to normal speeds for the RPM we were using. We stopped again, and I checked the engine room once more. Fluids ok, no leaks, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So we continued and I increased the RPM to about 2000-2100, and continued on making only about 4 knots. After 10 minutes or so, I opened the engine room again to check, and was met with an outburst of smoke, burning smell and everything was very hot. After stopping and investigating further I found the cause of the overheat was that the shaft brake was stuck closed. The ZF 25 gearbox was also very hot, and when I opened it to check the fluid again the lower part of the dipstick was melted into an elongated blob of plastic. There was no fluid leakage, so I assumed that the fluid level was still ok. I found out how to undo the shaft brake, and wedged a spanner in it to make sure it stayed open. By then everything was cooled down and we proceeded to motor slowly to shore at about 1200rpm. Interestingly the "rattle" mentioned above was back. We flushed and changed fluids and ran the boat gently for a day or two until we got to a marina. On testing the boat, we find that all is well until we exceed 2000rpm. Quite quickly after running at 2100rpm our little rattle stops, then the engine noise starts to waver and sounds like it it reducing in rpm, although the digital readout of rpm does not change from 2100rpm. The boat then starts to slow down from the 8.3 knots it was travelling at with 2000rpm. It drops a couple of knots. On checking the shaft brake at this point it is still open so that is not the reason for slowing. If I increase the engine power, we get no more thrust from the propeller. After this happens, I struggle to generate thrust even at lower rpm. Leaving everything to cool down completely appears to reset the problem. The rattle comes back, low RPM operation is ok, but when loaded up the gearbox seems to be failing. The one thing which is niggling in my head is that the engine rpm sounds like it momentarily drops down when this problem occurs, although the rpm readout does not change. However, I can easily increase the engine RPM by pushing the lever, it just does not transfer to the prop, which seems to me like gearbox trouble. All comments/suggestions appreciated. We don't really want to give up on our summer cruising, and apart from that its cold back in Sydney! Thanks all. Dean SY Stella Amel 54#154
On Jul 24, 2018, at 5:08 AM, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure
dr_hofschulte
mit freundlichen Grüßen
Dr. H.-J. Hofschulte www.diezahnkuenstler.de
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level
Hi Alexandre,
Yes its interesting. I dont know who changed the dipsticks. Personally I don't believe ZF shipped the wrong ones, I think they were changed by someone to try and match the ZF published capacity of 2Litres. If you use the correct dipstick, you might wonder about the extra fluid needed, but you will always end up with 3l because you use the dipstick as the master reference. Cheers Dean
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Masse Light and March Pump
Duane Siegfri
I replaced the freshwater pump with a Marco UP3 electronic gear pump. It has a magnetic drive. The old pump had a bonding wire, so I attached it to the base of the new pump. I did not hook up the "active" red light on the 24V power panel however, since we can hear this pump operate. Now I'm getting a warning light on the "leak detector" for the bonding system for the "Ground +". When I shut off power to the water pump, the warning light no longer illuminates. Since this unit uses a magnetic drive, is that causing some voltage in the bonding wire? Should I simply disconnect the bonding wire from the pump? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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