Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

Craig Briggs
 

I plan to use Krylon Premium Metallic spray in Original Chrome #1010, which I've had great success with before. At 7 knots on a dark night you can't tell the difference from the original.  Made for plastic.

Craig, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Hi Ryan,
So far you are the only one asking for the high quality mirror chrome finish. For orders lessthan100, the chrome guy wants a LOT...price per each handle is$100!
Please contact me directly
karkauai at yahoo dot com
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

karkauai
 

Hi Ryan,
So far you are the only one asking for the high quality mirror chrome finish. For orders lessthan100, the chrome guy wants a LOT...price per each handle is$100!
Please contact me directly
karkauai at yahoo dot com
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Bill
Thanks a lot for giving the Bowman Part Number. Do you have also the source where to order? Or is it a common part available on different sources?
Best regards
Ruedi
WASABI A-54 #55


On 26 Jul 2018, at 16:54, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat,

The in-line Bowman needs more attention than the cooler attached to the transmission because the openings for the seawater flow in the Bowman are very small. The entry end of the Bowman will trap particles and debris that are small enough to get through the sea-chest strainer. It is very easy to clean the Bowman of this debris. It is also very easy to ruin the Bowman by over-tightening the large hose clamps on the entry and exit rubber boots. This same hose clamp, on the entry end is what is opened to remove debris...there is more to the procedure because of the saltwater in the lines and the Bowman heat exchanger.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:47 PM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 




-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jul 25, 2018 4:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

Should the replacement of the oil cooler on an older boat, be viewed as a necessary preventative item. Do they fail often ? It seems that if they do ,failure could occur without warning ,until after damage was done. I probably have the original cooler , should I put this on the list ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jul 25, 2018 3:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

 
Transmission Oil Cooler - Bowman DC60-XCC/#3367 end caps

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 12:33 PM 'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi to all.
it is my intention to have as spare a new trasmission oil cooler.
Because I m not on board, may I know please the Bowman code ?
Many thanks in advance
Buon Vento
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
Hi to all.
it is my intention to have as spare a new trasmission oil cooler.
Because I m not on board, may I know please the Bowman code ?
Many thanks in advance
Buon Vento
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 24-lug-2018 13.41
A: <amelyachtowners@...>
Ogg: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

 
One reason for the transmission heating up "could be" that your transmission oil cooler is compromised.  You said the dipstick was melted and since there was no leakage of fluid, you assumed that it was still full of transmission fluid.

I had a similiar problem with my Amel SM.  The cooler developed a hole in the cooler tubes that permitted the seawater and the transmission fluid to mix.  Eventually the hole in the cooler tubes was big enough, that the suction from the engine seawater pump sucked the fluid out of the transmission.  Prior to the complete failure of the transmission, the seawater mixed with the transmission fluid and rusted the inner workings of the transmission.  So, in my case, the transmission had to be replaced.

Have you ever noticed that the engine exhaust/water leaves an oil sheen on the water?

Pull some of the fluid out of the transmission and see if it looks right, or is milky or watery.

Here's the thing, if you have to replace the transmission, be sure to replace the transmission cooler.  I'm not sure of a reasonable interval to replace them, but for $200 or so, it's good insurance.  Mine failed at about 2,000 engine hours.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: resurrecting an old dessalator

greatketch@...
 

That looks exactly like ours, except we don’t have the green "ok" zone marked on the pressure gauge. Those are definitely the "old style" end caps.  If they haven’t gone bad yet, they will!  Ours literally crumbled in our hands when we went to change the membranes.

The conductivity sensor is that orange rubber plug in the product water line.  You can buy the assembly from Dessalator for $75, or you can replace the stainless steel pins when—not if—they corrode (3mm diameter, as I recall) for next to nothing. Ours seems to last about a year in more or less daily use.  You know it has failed when the system no longer rejects the first couple of liters of product water on startup.

If you've read through the postings here you know you can get the membranes for a fraction of the price that Dessalator charges from a number of suppliers.  All you need is to specify the diameter, length, and that you want a desalination membrane.  I think they still all come from Filmtec. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

Ryan Meador
 

Thanks for doing the legwork on this.  I'd be interested in a few of option 3, as I want to match the originals as closely as possible.  I just had one break on me a few days ago!  First one to go, and it was just the spring.  Until now, I was only looking for spares.

I'm still investigating printing these in metal.  I need to CAD the parts before I can get an estimate, and I've been trying to work on one project at a time (3D printing new "winches" for the genoa car controls in stainless steel; the original plastic ones cracked).

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 1:31 AM karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I finally got all my questions answered by the 3D printer in Annapolis. I sent pics and a sketch with dimensions, if we go ahead with this I will send him a pull from Kristy for him to copy exactly. There are only three affordable options. Here’s the bottom line:

1) ABS plastic in White, Black, or Silver (not shiny). This material isn’t mirror smooth. For an order of 100, design cost is $150 + $550=$700.00/100=$7.00 each
2). Chrome after light sanding-will give a shiny chrome surface, but not mirror smooth-add $1200 =$1900.00/100=$19.00 each

3) Dense tough resin which can be printed with mirror-smooth finish and chromed to look like original, $3600/100=$36.00 each

If anyone wants pics of the ABS material, contact me privately and I’ll send them to you.

I think any would be very functional and look fine. For $7 each, you could redo all in one cabin with the black or silver and save the rest as spares for the other cabins.

I think we will have to agree on which ones we want to order, I’ve asked if we could split the ABS order to include some silver and some gray, but don’t have an answer yet. I will ask if the design time is the same if only a few want the option 3, and get a quote per piece for the printing.

Anyone interested, please contact me at
karkauai “at” yahoo “dot” com

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Stove won't stay lit

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the contact info and part numbers.

Ryan

On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 6:26 AM Ian Townsend smlocalola@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We had the same issue. It is most likely the magnet. We replaced the following parts:
Magnet part number TM01
- Thermocouple part number 70063

In Europe, contact sales@... for these parts. In NA, contact sales@... or call 1-800-663-8515.

Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA

On Jul 25, 2018, at 11:19 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Joel,

Thank you for confirming this is an Eno!  I'm quite sure this is the original stove.  I'll check out Fishery Supply.

Jose,

Sorry to hear your bad experience.  I'll let you know if I find parts.  Kelly and I may be able to join you in Gloucester, but we need to figure out our schedules and if the weather is going to be good.  I'll let you know!

Thanks,
Ryan

On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 9:37 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,

 I had the same issue with the oven and I bought the part (it is a mercury filled and not a thermocouple) which I replaced and it worked fine... for a while.  Unfortunately, I waited too long between buying the part and installing it, and I am afraid it became damaged or I damaged it during installation because it stopped working after a few uses.  I bought the part in Martinique at a local chandlery and I don't remember its name.
If you find a supplier, I would be happy to chip in to buy one part like yours and one extra for the oven.  The replacement for the oven was complicated as it required almost full disassembly but for the burners, I think it can be easily done in place.  Feel free to come by Ipanema next Thurs evening or, if we have gone to Gloucester, on Sunday evening.  Even better, it would be great if you join us in Gloucester.  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: resurrecting an old dessalator

Ryan Meador
 

Thank you, Bill!  That was a wealth of knowledge.  I've attached photos of the control panel and membrane tubes -- I interpret that as white caps?  Also I see what I believe is the water quality sensor.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:44 PM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan, 


That looks like the same one we have onboard Harmonie, although I’d need to see the control panel to be sure. It is different than newer models in functionality.  For example, it has a real functioning conductivity sensor that drives the reject valve, not just a timer.  I believe the exact model was special for Amel, although mostly with standard Dessalator parts.  It is a 24V only model.  A big benefit as far as I am concerned.  The dual voltage units add huge complexity and problems for very minor functionality additions.

I have manuals for it, mostly in French, but some of the key pages are in English.

You can find manuals for the pump online, it is a standard high pressure pump made by Cat.  Model number should be on the pump, let me know if you have trouble with it.

As a minimum, turn the pump by hand before powering on to be sure things move.  After that long sitting, it is quite possible the check valves are stuck.  As you say, the membranes are certainly hosed. When you pull them out, do spend the money with Dessalator to get the new style end caps for the pressure vessels.  The plastic they made the originals out of did not last.  You know you need to change them if they are white.  The new ones are black.

They are not very complex machines.  If the circuit board works, and the high pressure pump is functional, the rest is pretty easy.  The conductivity sensor is likely to be an issue on one that old without maintenance.  If yours does have one of these, I can help you locate it and sort out how it works.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi all,

I'm unsure of which model Dessalator is installed on my boat.  I've attached a photo.  The info on the label on the motor reads:

Amel
No 830042
Type MBT1141L
29V60l/h9848

It appears this is a 24V-only unit.  Is this typical?  I haven't had luck searching the mailing list archives for more info. I think there is something wrong with Yahoo right now.  Can anyone identify this model?

This unit has 13 hours on it.  That is not a typo.  The previous owner said he used it a couple times when he first got the boat and then never again.  I do not know if it was pickled at that time, nor if it has been flushed in the interim.  Can anyone offer advice on what I should do before I try turning it on?  I know I'll need to replace the membranes before I use it, but I just want to see if everything else works or if it needs a more serious overhaul.

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


A Leak of a Different Kind

Gary Wells
 

I spent my day trying to round up some stray Milli-amperes and it leads me to ask the group if a couple of anomalies aren't actually wrong.

This all started when the starter battery died back in September. We'd been off Adagio for about 6 weeks but left it in the care of a boat-watcher who started and ran the engine and GenSet for us .. but apparently not often or long enough and the starter eventually quit starting.  I told them to just leave her be, as the house batteries were on shore power and staying charged anyway.

When we returned the first order of business was a new starting battery and some tests to see why it would have given up so easily.  It was perhaps four years old, but there was more to the story. ...

A little current goes a long way. .. My first look into it revealed a 39.5 Milli-amp (.039A) static drain on the starter system.  As we were about to be off-and-on the boat, and on the move, for a few more months I opted for a good quality 1 Amp battery maintainer and it kept things quite healthy until now, when I could get to what I suspected would be quite a project. 
Well, it's not that bad.  I found the culprit in a previously installed secondary bilge pump switch/high-water alarm.

I will be replacing it with a solid-state switch as it's very cool to me to have a high-water alarm and the wiring is in place for a secondary bilge pump. This makes it easy to connect up .. as long as you remember it's a 12 volt line :)

So, removing that switch I got rid of about 38 of the 39.5 leaking thousandths of an amp.  The other one-and-a-half is playing hard to get.

I've isolated it to the GenSet.  But, before I go diving into it full-tilt (I will indeed start studying the schematics tonight) I'm just wondering if a 1.5 Milliamp draw is worth fighting for.  I presume that it should be a dead zero when things are turned off but maybe the GenSet has some volatile memory?  For the record, there are three 12VDC relays outboard on the Generator box. Removing them did nothing, but removing the 25A DC fuse did bring it down to ~nearly~ zero. I'll have to chase where this brown +12v wire goes once it passes the relays and see if there is anything obvious.  Then, there's the tiniest residual leak (.00058A) when the charging wire is connected to the Kubota's alternator. 


Just posting in case someone has had the chance to chase something like this. 


Thanks!


Gary W.

SM #209, "Adagio"

Malta


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masse Light and March Pump

 

Bill K,

That is the reason I gave 3 choices with:
BEST
GOOD
OK

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 12:03 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I use two Marco UP2/E pumps in parallel to have an installed spare.  I have never seen us draw enough water to run both pumps together. They do run at a slightly lower set pressure than all the bigger Marco gear pumps.


They supply all the water we need.  A UP3/E would, in my opinion, be a fine pump for a Super Maramu.  A 12 gallon per minute pump seems like almost ridiculous overkill to me...even with a 20% discount off list price. But then, I don’t power wash my decks from my tanks...

And, none of them are mag drive pumps. All direct drive with lip seal on the shaft.  

I have no doubt that a UP12/E works, but how much water do you really use in a minute? Is it worth paying that much for a pump who's capacity is WAY more than you’ll ever use?  That’s more water than the bilge pump can pump out of the sump! 

I do come from the perspective of generally being very frugal with water from the tank, so other people might have a different outlook.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

 

Pat,

The in-line Bowman needs more attention than the cooler attached to the transmission because the openings for the seawater flow in the Bowman are very small. The entry end of the Bowman will trap particles and debris that are small enough to get through the sea-chest strainer. It is very easy to clean the Bowman of this debris. It is also very easy to ruin the Bowman by over-tightening the large hose clamps on the entry and exit rubber boots. This same hose clamp, on the entry end is what is opened to remove debris...there is more to the procedure because of the saltwater in the lines and the Bowman heat exchanger.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:47 PM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 




-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jul 25, 2018 4:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

Should the replacement of the oil cooler on an older boat, be viewed as a necessary preventative item. Do they fail often ? It seems that if they do ,failure could occur without warning ,until after damage was done. I probably have the original cooler , should I put this on the list ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jul 25, 2018 3:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] trasmission oil cooler

 
Transmission Oil Cooler - Bowman DC60-XCC/#3367 end caps

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 12:33 PM 'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi to all.
it is my intention to have as spare a new trasmission oil cooler.
Because I m not on board, may I know please the Bowman code ?
Many thanks in advance
Buon Vento
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
Hi to all.
it is my intention to have as spare a new trasmission oil cooler.
Because I m not on board, may I know please the Bowman code ?
Many thanks in advance
Buon Vento
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 24-lug-2018 13.41
A: <amelyachtowners@...>
Ogg: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

 
One reason for the transmission heating up "could be" that your transmission oil cooler is compromised.  You said the dipstick was melted and since there was no leakage of fluid, you assumed that it was still full of transmission fluid.

I had a similiar problem with my Amel SM.  The cooler developed a hole in the cooler tubes that permitted the seawater and the transmission fluid to mix.  Eventually the hole in the cooler tubes was big enough, that the suction from the engine seawater pump sucked the fluid out of the transmission.  Prior to the complete failure of the transmission, the seawater mixed with the transmission fluid and rusted the inner workings of the transmission.  So, in my case, the transmission had to be replaced.

Have you ever noticed that the engine exhaust/water leaves an oil sheen on the water?

Pull some of the fluid out of the transmission and see if it looks right, or is milky or watery.

Here's the thing, if you have to replace the transmission, be sure to replace the transmission cooler.  I'm not sure of a reasonable interval to replace them, but for $200 or so, it's good insurance.  Mine failed at about 2,000 engine hours.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: Masse Light and March Pump

greatketch@...
 

Anybody would be happy with a UPE12/e pump's performance. It’s awesome, and the whole line of Marco pumps are super.

My point is I doubt you would notice the flow rate difference if you had installed a UPE6–for half the price.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Stove won't stay lit

Ian Townsend
 

We had the same issue. It is most likely the magnet. We replaced the following parts:
Magnet part number TM01
- Thermocouple part number 70063

In Europe, contact sales@... for these parts. In NA, contact sales@... or call 1-800-663-8515.

Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA

On Jul 25, 2018, at 11:19 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Joel,

Thank you for confirming this is an Eno!  I'm quite sure this is the original stove.  I'll check out Fishery Supply.

Jose,

Sorry to hear your bad experience.  I'll let you know if I find parts.  Kelly and I may be able to join you in Gloucester, but we need to figure out our schedules and if the weather is going to be good.  I'll let you know!

Thanks,
Ryan

On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 9:37 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,

 I had the same issue with the oven and I bought the part (it is a mercury filled and not a thermocouple) which I replaced and it worked fine... for a while.  Unfortunately, I waited too long between buying the part and installing it, and I am afraid it became damaged or I damaged it during installation because it stopped working after a few uses.  I bought the part in Martinique at a local chandlery and I don't remember its name.
If you find a supplier, I would be happy to chip in to buy one part like yours and one extra for the oven.  The replacement for the oven was complicated as it required almost full disassembly but for the burners, I think it can be easily done in place.  Feel free to come by Ipanema next Thurs evening or, if we have gone to Gloucester, on Sunday evening.  Even better, it would be great if you join us in Gloucester.  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masse Light and March Pump

Alan Leslie
 

Bill,

We have a UP14 Marco pump and it is fantastic....I do power wash the dodger windows and the dodger and other things ..I use the cockpit hoe to rinse pand, dishes and the espreeso machine basket, so all that stuff doesn't end up in the sump. I run the water maker nearly everyday and try to keep the tank 800 litres minimum...I LIKE plenty of water....the tank being full is extra ballast low down...the boat sails better with a full tank...running the watermaker every day is good for it ...why not use the water we make ?
The UP 14 pump means that two people can shower at the same time as well as the washing machine going and hosing the deck and everyone has flow and pressure.
The wire sizing in our boat is adequate for the current (4mm2 is the spec, ours is 6)...max current at 24V is 16A...but I have actually never seen that,
And the UP14 pump wasn't $1000 more than the 3.....I bought mine from SVB in Germany...before BRs 20% discount.
I think Marco pumps are the best available for this application....much better than the antiquated original system.
BUT I agree with you that we shouldn't be using this forum for commercial purposes...ie with the intention of gaining personal financial benefit.
Thanks always for your intelligent experienced input.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Blue Lagoon, Fiji


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

That's great. Hope the install goes well

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean pearl

On 26 July 2018 at 19:45 "trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danny,
You’re right. I was never going to go for a recondition. This transmission has been going around for 750 hours being a litre short of fluid.

It’s amazing it has lasted this long, I suspect the original owner did not exceed 2000rpm in his 430 hours of use. I crank up the RPM Intermittently to help clear the carbon and also to stress test the drive train. This may have accelerated the failure, although I was not going hard when it failed.

Ruedi asked about the pressure failure. I think one factor was low fluid level (only 2L), and possibly a suction leak through the oil filter seals, although I have not been able to verify that theory. I’m almost positive the overheat came from the shaft brake closure, due to lowering pressure - then everything compounds as the brake resists more etc.

Anyhow, after great assistance from Porter McRoberts, yesterday I ordered a new transmission from marinegears.com in Florida. Its coming by Fedex next week and will be fitted the week after.

Cheers all
Dean


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Failure

Dean Gillies
 

Danny,
You’re right. I was never going to go for a recondition. This transmission has been going around for 750 hours being a litre short of fluid.

It’s amazing it has lasted this long, I suspect the original owner did not exceed 2000rpm in his 430 hours of use. I crank up the RPM Intermittently to help clear the carbon and also to stress test the drive train. This may have accelerated the failure, although I was not going hard when it failed.

Ruedi asked about the pressure failure. I think one factor was low fluid level (only 2L), and possibly a suction leak through the oil filter seals, although I have not been able to verify that theory. I’m almost positive the overheat came from the shaft brake closure, due to lowering pressure - then everything compounds as the brake resists more etc.

Anyhow, after great assistance from Porter McRoberts, yesterday I ordered a new transmission from marinegears.com in Florida. Its coming by Fedex next week and will be fitted the week after.

Cheers all
Dean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Masse Light and March Pump

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Gang,

Marco pumps have a time limit at which point they stop pumping.  Not on the boat (resto) but will check my documentation.

Cheers,

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007
Bora Bora.



On 25 Jul 2018, at 21:21, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill Kinney, you voiced something that was niggling me too. If you have a freshwater pump that can dump 500 litres into your bilge in about 10 minutes, can your bilge pump handle that. I didn’t get to checking the figures, but it would be nice to think that if a coupling gave way and the pump started pumping water into the engine room, then the bilge pump could keep up.

It happened in my last boat. We had a nice sail, anchored up, went down below to find our floor boards afloat.

Panic, then relief upon tasting!

We chucked in some detergent and gave the bilge a really good clean.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54#154



Re: Masse Light and March Pump

Dean Gillies
 

Bill Kinney, you voiced something that was niggling me too. If you have a freshwater pump that can dump 500 litres into your bilge in about 10 minutes, can your bilge pump handle that. I didn’t get to checking the figures, but it would be nice to think that if a coupling gave way and the pump started pumping water into the engine room, then the bilge pump could keep up.

It happened in my last boat. We had a nice sail, anchored up, went down below to find our floor boards afloat.

Panic, then relief upon tasting!

We chucked in some detergent and gave the bilge a really good clean.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54#154


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masse Light and March Pump

Jean-Pierre's MacBook Air <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Bill K,

I have a Marco 12E and happy with its performance.  However, I am a water gonzo….

:-)

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007
Bora Bora.



On 25 Jul 2018, at 14:48, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I use two Marco UP2/E pumps in parallel to have an installed spare.  I have never seen us draw enough water to run both pumps together. They do run at a slightly lower set pressure than all the bigger Marco gear pumps.


They supply all the water we need.  A UP3/E would, in my opinion, be a fine pump for a Super Maramu.  A 12 gallon per minute pump seems like almost ridiculous overkill to me...even with a 20% discount off list price. But then, I don’t power wash my decks from my tan

And, none of them are mag drive pumps. All direct drive with lip seal on the shaft.  

I have no doubt that a UP12/E works, but how much water do you really use in a minute? Is it worth paying that much for a pump who's capacity is WAY more than you’ll ever use?  That’s more water than the bilge pump can pump out of the sump! 

I do come from the perspective of generally being very frugal with water from the tank, so other people might have a different outlook.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masse Light and March Pump

greatketch@...
 

Bill Rouse,

We agree that Marco makes a great lineup of pumps....  but....

Are you serious? A 12GPM pump?   Really?  That seems like ridiculous overkill—to me.  I mean, think about it... that’s pumping water faster out of the tanks than the bilge pump can remove it from the sump! Even with a "20% discount" that’s paying a huge amount of extra money for a lot of pump capacity that will never be used.  Normal flow from a household tap is between 1 and 2 gpm.  How do you come up with a recommendation for a 12GPM pump?  That would supply full flow from every tap on the boat wide open, with capacity to spare!

On Harmonie we have two UPE2/E pumps (rated at 2.6gpm) installed in parallel so we have an installed backup.  I have never felt like we lacked for water flow and even with two taps wide open we have never had both pumps running.  I think the UPE3/E is a great pump for a boat the size of a Super Maramu.  It is the same style, provides excellent water pressure and flow, and is nearly $1000 cheaper than your recommendations. I just can’t understand why a 12, or even a 7 gallon per minute pump would be a useful addition.  But there is lots I don’t understand. 

On my boat, I would need to upgrade the circuit breaker and wiring to comply with the recommendations in the Marco manual, even for the UPE12.  I am guessing the newer boats have 20 amp breakers and 10 awg wire instead of the smaller supply circuit my boat has?

I know I come from a different place than some people, because I am very conservative with water from the tanks when we are cruising.  I don’t want to power wash my decks with water from my tanks, for example. I also selected the smaller Marco pump specifically because it had lower water pressure.  But for rinsing the boat, and rinsing the bodies on board, our pump selection works well, and is definitely more than “OK” for us.  

And a reminder... this is still supposed to be a non-commercial forum. You're pushing that—more than a little.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: resurrecting an old dessalator

greatketch@...
 

Ryan, 

That looks like the same one we have onboard Harmonie, although I’d need to see the control panel to be sure. It is different than newer models in functionality.  For example, it has a real functioning conductivity sensor that drives the reject valve, not just a timer.  I believe the exact model was special for Amel, although mostly with standard Dessalator parts.  It is a 24V only model.  A big benefit as far as I am concerned.  The dual voltage units add huge complexity and problems for very minor functionality additions.

I have manuals for it, mostly in French, but some of the key pages are in English.

You can find manuals for the pump online, it is a standard high pressure pump made by Cat.  Model number should be on the pump, let me know if you have trouble with it.

As a minimum, turn the pump by hand before powering on to be sure things move.  After that long sitting, it is quite possible the check valves are stuck.  As you say, the membranes are certainly hosed. When you pull them out, do spend the money with Dessalator to get the new style end caps for the pressure vessels.  The plastic they made the originals out of did not last.  You know you need to change them if they are white.  The new ones are black.

They are not very complex machines.  If the circuit board works, and the high pressure pump is functional, the rest is pretty easy.  The conductivity sensor is likely to be an issue on one that old without maintenance.  If yours does have one of these, I can help you locate it and sort out how it works.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie 
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I'm unsure of which model Dessalator is installed on my boat.  I've attached a photo.  The info on the label on the motor reads:

Amel
No 830042
Type MBT1141L
29V60l/h9848

It appears this is a 24V-only unit.  Is this typical?  I haven't had luck searching the mailing list archives for more info. I think there is something wrong with Yahoo right now.  Can anyone identify this model?

This unit has 13 hours on it.  That is not a typo.  The previous owner said he used it a couple times when he first got the boat and then never again.  I do not know if it was pickled at that time, nor if it has been flushed in the interim.  Can anyone offer advice on what I should do before I try turning it on?  I know I'll need to replace the membranes before I use it, but I just want to see if everything else works or if it needs a more serious overhaul.

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

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