Date   

Re: Victron Centaur 24/60

greatketch@...
 

Bill,

I might be wrong, (given the black soot covering things...) but the part you indicated looks more like a diode than a resistor.  A typical failure mode for a diode is overvoltage.  I suspect you are looking at a symptom, not a cause.  

My first bet would be a short term glitch in shore power.  Although, I wouldn't put a lot of money on that...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Victron Centaur 24/60

greatketch@...
 

Bill,

I might be wrong, (given the black soot covering things...) but the part you indicated looks more like a diode than a resistor.  A typical failure mode for a diode is overvoltage.  I suspect you are looking at a symptom, not a cause.  

My first bet would be a short term glitch in shore power.  Although, I wouldn't put a lot of money on that...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange Steering/tracking problem [1 Attachment]

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Davi,

 

What about the prop. Is it a folding prop and are the blades moving freely?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 10:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange Steering/tracking problem [1 Attachment]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from davi.rozgonyi@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hi All! This is my first post, I think, but I'm Davi, owner of SM #56, SY Wake. Recently I've had a strange steering tracking problem maybe you could give me some insight into...Any advice will be most appreciated! 

 

Recently I had my boat short hauled for a bottom clean. Went well, professional people, an hour out and done gentle as could be...I watched/supervised the whole thing. Then I motored out in perfectly calm wind and sea, no current, and noticed that I was holding the wheel at the position in the pic (about 10-15 degrees to port) in order to motor straight ahead! There was a slight pressure like weather helm (with no weather). If I released the wheel, it would slowly turn back till the top spoke was in the correct position for center rudder, stay there without any help, and the boat itself would slowly start turning to starboard. It felt like I was motoring with a centered rudder but dragging something from my starboard side, basically. 

 

Got to an anchorage and spent two days playing around, but also diving the hull. Scraped and cleaned the patches under the lift straps. Absolutely nothing that was dragging. There is a small protruding transducer on the starboard side that sticks out an inch or two, but it's quite close to centerline (a few feet max), and I can't see how that would either drag much or that I wouldn't have noticed it before... I also don't see how this could be a steering cable issue simply because it 'feels' like the rudder is centered, and the wheel stays naturally in that position like it used to, but the boat turns. Before this, the wheel stayed in the center and the boat went straight for miles and miles without touching the wheel (under motor, calm conditions). 

 

What gives???

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Victron Centaur 24/60 [1 Attachment]

Kelly Ran
 

Hey Bill,

Sorry to hear about that!
Looks like a diode to me... Possible failure modes-
Too much forward current if forward biased
If the diode is reverse biased, then too high a reverse standoff voltage 
Probably better diagnosed if you pull the PCB out

Kelly + Ryan
SM233 Iteration 
Boston


On Sun, Jul 29, 2018, 09:43 william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

Hey everyone -


Went out for a beautiful day yesterday. Everything was perfect until I plugged back into the dock and flipped the charger on. About a minute after there was a loud "pop" and a plume of white smoke that came from the engine room. Upon further investigation I found that the charger blew. (See picture in mark up). All is good and again I came to respect the redundancies on this boat even more. Problem temporarily solved by switching on the heart charger located in the aft cabin. (Usually I only use this charger as a supplement with my primary (Victron Centaur 24/60 while on generator power) It looks like a resister blew and the charger is less than 2 years old. Can anyone chime in on a  possible reason beside faulty equipment? Voltages all check out at post and plug end. The boat did a good job protecting itself and popped the breaker.  Just looking for some additional comments. Many thanks. 


Bill Maffei

Its all Good

SM #195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Masse Light and March Pump

greatketch@...
 

On our UP2/e I tapped into the positive wire going from the controller to the pump.  The light is a bit dim at low flow rates, but works.  Not sure if the UP3/e would be different or not.

The very newest versions of the larger Marco pumps (starting with the UP6/E) have an optional remote control panel for both status indication and switching of the pump.  If you have that system, you can add an additional run indicator LED anywhere you want.  (Panel AND helm?) A very nice addition to already line of nice pumps!

I don't know if these are in the supply chain yet, but they are in the most recent catalog.  Unfortunately, it doesn't look like retrofit is a simple matter without replacement of the pressure controller.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

Mark,

You probably know that your OEM pressure switch has 3 wires connected to it. Two of those wires supply 24 positive and negative. The third wire will light the panel LED when positive 24VDC is connected to it. So, you want to connect that third wire to the positive wire going to the pump motor, after the pressure switch.

Some of the MARCO pumps are easier than others to make this connection. Let me know which pump you are installing and I will get you more information.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Jul 29, 2018, 08:03 brass.ring@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good morning Bill,

Were you able to interface the LED indicator light on the panel to show when the Marco pumps are running.  If so, how did you connect the wiring?  Thanks.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54 - 68
Southport, NC


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Masse Light and March Pump

 

Mark,

See the attached PDF of suggested pumps. If you are installing the UP 6, or the UP 12, each has a pressure switch similar to your Amel OEM pump. You connect the 3rd wire to positive wire on the the same side of of the pressure switch as the red wire from the motor.


Also, you will want to go to www.marco.it and create an account with a password. When you have an account and are logged-in, you can go to your pump and see additional information such as, spare parts, manuals and sometimes videos.


Good luck. I believe MARCO is the best replacement for OEM Amel pumps which are no longer available. I understand that Amel is considering using MARCO in the future. Please don't go too cheap like Bill Kinney suggests. The minimum should be the UP6 MARCO pump. Mid-range, the UP12, and top of the line the UP14/E. Be sure to order rebuild parts, especially "gears," which act as impellers, although should last almost forever because of their teflon-type nature.

BTW, a member of the Amel Owners Group Forum send me a private email accusing me of receiving commission from MARCO. It really pissed me off because I have never in my lifetime received anything for my support of a product. In fact, I have never received a hidden commission or incentive. I consider it unethical and without honor. That said, I guess that I am overjoyed in finding MARCO. I have been looking for a suitable OEM replacement since Reya bought A.M.F.A about 6 years ago. I knew that was going to be the end of those quality pumps, and it happened about 1 year ago. So, I am enthusiastic for two reasons, MARCO appears to be a great company, producing very good pumps in a wide assortment, AND, I was able to get all of my clients a 20% discount when purchased directly from MARCO.

Good Luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be taken when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any referred to mechanical and/or electrical device or system.


On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 8:43 AM Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Mark,

You probably know that your OEM pressure switch has 3 wires connected to it. Two of those wires supply 24 positive and negative. The third wire will light the panel LED when positive 24VDC is connected to it. So, you want to connect that third wire to the positive wire going to the pump motor, after the pressure switch.

Some of the MARCO pumps are easier than others to make this connection. Let me know which pump you are installing and I will get you more information.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Jul 29, 2018, 08:03 brass.ring@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good morning Bill,

Were you able to interface the LED indicator light on the panel to show when the Marco pumps are running.  If so, how did you connect the wiring?  Thanks.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54 - 68
Southport, NC


Strange Steering/tracking problem

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hi All! This is my first post, I think, but I'm Davi, owner of SM #56, SY Wake. Recently I've had a strange steering tracking problem maybe you could give me some insight into...Any advice will be most appreciated! 


Recently I had my boat short hauled for a bottom clean. Went well, professional people, an hour out and done gentle as could be...I watched/supervised the whole thing. Then I motored out in perfectly calm wind and sea, no current, and noticed that I was holding the wheel at the position in the pic (about 10-15 degrees to port) in order to motor straight ahead! There was a slight pressure like weather helm (with no weather). If I released the wheel, it would slowly turn back till the top spoke was in the correct position for center rudder, stay there without any help, and the boat itself would slowly start turning to starboard. It felt like I was motoring with a centered rudder but dragging something from my starboard side, basically. 


Got to an anchorage and spent two days playing around, but also diving the hull. Scraped and cleaned the patches under the lift straps. Absolutely nothing that was dragging. There is a small protruding transducer on the starboard side that sticks out an inch or two, but it's quite close to centerline (a few feet max), and I can't see how that would either drag much or that I wouldn't have noticed it before... I also don't see how this could be a steering cable issue simply because it 'feels' like the rudder is centered, and the wheel stays naturally in that position like it used to, but the boat turns. Before this, the wheel stayed in the center and the boat went straight for miles and miles without touching the wheel (under motor, calm conditions). 


What gives???



Re: Run rail maintenance

Alejandro Paquin
 

Good morning, we decided to change ours after 37 years of service, and damage also due to unintended ramming against pilings at our Marina (weather related). It is an Amel original supply, it cost in 2014 about 1200 Euros, shipped to Belgium, it fit properly and was pre cut in two sections. We installed with 1 inch screws (Fasco #8 PAN type 18-8 Stainless Steel) and discarded the original nails, because there was no practical way to attach them. We drilled small pilot holes and used a little over 100 screws. Beware the new rub rail is heavy. it weighs around 70 kg, and was shipped on a nice small pallet.
The new one looks great (finally!!)

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Older Maramu #94, 1981


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Masse Light and March Pump

 

Mark,

You probably know that your OEM pressure switch has 3 wires connected to it. Two of those wires supply 24 positive and negative. The third wire will light the panel LED when positive 24VDC is connected to it. So, you want to connect that third wire to the positive wire going to the pump motor, after the pressure switch.

Some of the MARCO pumps are easier than others to make this connection. Let me know which pump you are installing and I will get you more information.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Sun, Jul 29, 2018, 08:03 brass.ring@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good morning Bill,

Were you able to interface the LED indicator light on the panel to show when the Marco pumps are running.  If so, how did you connect the wiring?  Thanks.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54 - 68
Southport, NC


Victron Centaur 24/60

william_maffei@...
 

Hey everyone -


Went out for a beautiful day yesterday. Everything was perfect until I plugged back into the dock and flipped the charger on. About a minute after there was a loud "pop" and a plume of white smoke that came from the engine room. Upon further investigation I found that the charger blew. (See picture in mark up). All is good and again I came to respect the redundancies on this boat even more. Problem temporarily solved by switching on the heart charger located in the aft cabin. (Usually I only use this charger as a supplement with my primary (Victron Centaur 24/60 while on generator power) It looks like a resister blew and the charger is less than 2 years old. Can anyone chime in on a  possible reason beside faulty equipment? Voltages all check out at post and plug end. The boat did a good job protecting itself and popped the breaker.  Just looking for some additional comments. Many thanks. 


Bill Maffei

Its all Good

SM #195


Re: Onan parts in Martinique

ya_fohi
 

Thanks Alex. I don't think its quite critical just yet. The fuel pump (I think) - small cylindrical shaped item with two wires connected, just below the impellor housing, has gotten very corroded and I managed to break one of the wires off its terminal. I re-terminated it and all seems well but I guess its a matter of time before its needs to be replaced. The two wires seem very brittle.

We're planning to head to Grenada soon, what about you?

Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Ryan
you are absolutly right. I have the same Hurth ZF 25 M
and yes ist 0.75 - 08 l of Acf transmisson oil
and yes I do not have an oring because I have to screw in the lipstick.
I do not understand the message 3 liters of Acf Transmisson oil in the Hurth 25 transmission box ??!!
Regards
Hanspeter
SM 16, Tamango 2

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 29.07.2018 um 04:07 schrieb Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

After reading these ZF transmission threads with great interest, I thought this was an Amel 54 problem, but I've also seen a few posts from folks with Super Maramus, so I went to check mine.  My transmission says HBW 250-3.0R.  According to this manual I found, the HBW 250 is the same as the ZF 25 M.  So I guess this thread does apply to me?  Except none of the numbers you're throwing around make sense -- my dipstick is almost exactly 160mm from the bottom thread on the cap to the mark.  And that manual says I should put 0.75l of fluid in, which seems crazy small and is way less than anyone else in this discussion.  I'm filled to the mark, but looking in the dipstick hole, the transmission is only about half full.  I also don't have an O-ring on the dipstick.

Have I misunderstood the part numbers and this thread actually has nothing to do with me?  Does that manual I found actually apply to my transmission?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:11 PM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Dean,


Hull #69, 2007 A54 has the correct dipstick. I distinctly recall adding 2L per the manual and noticing that it was low, so I added more. No tranny troubles, but I do have that rattle in the throttle you mention.

Do you know if it's possible to replace the filter cover with the updated design? Or does the updated design more about changes to the transmission casing where the filter cover sits?

-Scott


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi  Ryan. I've been waiting for someone to wake up to this. The gear box in Ocean pearl takes around 800mls. That is the correct amount for that gearbox. Clearly the 54 and any other with the hydrolic systems have a greater capacity. 

Kind Regards 

Danny

SM 299

Ocean pearl

On 29 July 2018 at 15:07 "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

After reading these ZF transmission threads with great interest, I thought this was an Amel 54 problem, but I've also seen a few posts from folks with Super Maramus, so I went to check mine.  My transmission says HBW 250-3.0R.  According to this manual I found, the HBW 250 is the same as the ZF 25 M.  So I guess this thread does apply to me?  Except none of the numbers you're throwing around make sense -- my dipstick is almost exactly 160mm from the bottom thread on the cap to the mark.  And that manual says I should put 0.75l of fluid in, which seems crazy small and is way less than anyone else in this discussion.  I'm filled to the mark, but looking in the dipstick hole, the transmission is only about half full.  I also don't have an O-ring on the dipstick.

Have I misunderstood the part numbers and this thread actually has nothing to do with me?  Does that manual I found actually apply to my transmission?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:11 PM cpp_berkeley < no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Dean,


Hull #69, 2007 A54 has the correct dipstick. I distinctly recall adding 2L per the manual and noticing that it was low, so I added more. No tranny troubles, but I do have that rattle in the throttle you mention.

Do you know if it's possible to replace the filter cover with the updated design? Or does the updated design more about changes to the transmission casing where the filter cover sits?

-Scott

 

 

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Is there a difference?

We weren't happy at all with the Amel solution, so we re-did it to fit taller persons, and to be able to look forward, without a window and without sitting down.

/Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM #232

Skickat från min iPad

28 juli 2018 kl. 16:01 skrev philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi dear Super Maramu Experts,


I think about to change my old installation of the cockpit cover on my SM#124 to the installation on the SM2K.

For this action I asked AMEL in La Rochelle and NV Equipment as well, but unfortunately I didn't get an answer that they could help.

Does anybody has a map with the dimensions of the inox tubes and also where to fix them on the cockpit triangle.


Many thanks for all support!


Philipp

SM#124, Félicie, Bâle



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

James Cromie
 

This link shows the conversion between old model numbers and new ones.  It appears that you are correct. 


James
SV Soteria SM 347.  

On Jul 28, 2018, at 11:07 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


After reading these ZF transmission threads with great interest, I thought this was an Amel 54 problem, but I've also seen a few posts from folks with Super Maramus, so I went to check mine.  My transmission says HBW 250-3.0R.  According to this manual I found, the HBW 250 is the same as the ZF 25 M.  So I guess this thread does apply to me?  Except none of the numbers you're throwing around make sense -- my dipstick is almost exactly 160mm from the bottom thread on the cap to the mark.  And that manual says I should put 0.75l of fluid in, which seems crazy small and is way less than anyone else in this discussion.  I'm filled to the mark, but looking in the dipstick hole, the transmission is only about half full.  I also don't have an O-ring on the dipstick.

Have I misunderstood the part numbers and this thread actually has nothing to do with me?  Does that manual I found actually apply to my transmission?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:11 PM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Dean,


Hull #69, 2007 A54 has the correct dipstick. I distinctly recall adding 2L per the manual and noticing that it was low, so I added more. No tranny troubles, but I do have that rattle in the throttle you mention.

Do you know if it's possible to replace the filter cover with the updated design? Or does the updated design more about changes to the transmission casing where the filter cover sits?

-Scott




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

greatketch@...
 

Ryan,

The zf25m is a very different beast than the zf25. The zf25m is indeed the current version of the venerable HBW250.

On the other hand, the zf25 is a significantly larger transmission that is hydraulically shifted. I doubt they share any significant parts.

Do NOT try to put 3 liters of fluid in your transmission. There isn’t room!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF25 Transmission Dipstick / Fluid Level

Ryan Meador
 

After reading these ZF transmission threads with great interest, I thought this was an Amel 54 problem, but I've also seen a few posts from folks with Super Maramus, so I went to check mine.  My transmission says HBW 250-3.0R.  According to this manual I found, the HBW 250 is the same as the ZF 25 M.  So I guess this thread does apply to me?  Except none of the numbers you're throwing around make sense -- my dipstick is almost exactly 160mm from the bottom thread on the cap to the mark.  And that manual says I should put 0.75l of fluid in, which seems crazy small and is way less than anyone else in this discussion.  I'm filled to the mark, but looking in the dipstick hole, the transmission is only about half full.  I also don't have an O-ring on the dipstick.

Have I misunderstood the part numbers and this thread actually has nothing to do with me?  Does that manual I found actually apply to my transmission?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 11:11 PM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Dean,


Hull #69, 2007 A54 has the correct dipstick. I distinctly recall adding 2L per the manual and noticing that it was low, so I added more. No tranny troubles, but I do have that rattle in the throttle you mention.

Do you know if it's possible to replace the filter cover with the updated design? Or does the updated design more about changes to the transmission casing where the filter cover sits?

-Scott


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Run rail maintenance

James Alton
 

Miles,

   The rails on Sueño had quite a bit of oxidation on them after sitting in the sun for years in the Med. before we bought the boat.   We found that a good scrub with Soft Scrub cleaned them up pretty well.  The wife then put a couple coats of wax on them to provide some protection and they came out surprisingly well.  There may be a better product out there to use and if so hopefully someone will let us know.  

Best,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jul 28, 2018, at 4:16 PM, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello there
I’ve returned to our older Maramu boat after a period with her ashore in the sun
The rub rails are ‘dusty’ - any rope, hand or shoe that touches them comes off with white power marks 
Does anyone have any advice on how best to maintain the Amel run rails ?
Some sort of clean n seal tricks?

Many thanks in advance

Miles
Maramu #162




Re: Amel Pole Rigging Lines

Miles
 

Hi Gary,

Steve is correct.  Amel used stretchy lines for good reason.  You don’t want a non-stretch line, especially for the fore-guy line.  The original lines are very stretchy.   The forward (blue) line goes from the pole around a block at the bow and back to the cleat in front of the windshield.   If (when) you are rolling down wind and a pole dips into the water, or you try to go more than 40 degrees off dead down wind, the long stretchy line will allow the pole to move back without breaking until the angle to the bow attachment become such that the line pulls the pole back against the side on the rub rail instead of out forward, rather like a big rubber band.  When this happened to me, the pole made a great bang against the side of the boat.  I was sure I had broken something, but there was no damage.  I only had to loosen the line and the pole went back to the proper positon.  This was just one more instance where I saw that Amel did everything for a reason.  

Regards,

Miles  S/Y Ladybug,  sm216, Newport Harbor, RI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Run rail maintenance

smiles bernard
 

Typo! Rub Rails 😉


On 28 Jul 2018, at 21:16, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello there
I’ve returned to our older Maramu boat after a period with her ashore in the sun
The rub rails are ‘dusty’ - any rope, hand or shoe that touches them comes off with white power marks
Does anyone have any advice on how best to maintain the Amel run rails ?
Some sort of clean n seal tricks?

Many thanks in advance

Miles
Maramu #162