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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked
Paul,
Don’t be afraid to pull the fridge out a bit. On the SM53 there are only three thumb screw holding the unit in. (perhaps a 54 owner could chime in with the locations of the screws on the 54) Once the screws are out, it is possible to pull the fridge out about a foot without pulling it all the way out. Take off the cabinet doors in the kitchen under the sink (the whole panel should come off with the doors attached – look for the Phillips head screws (I think 2 or 3) lift and remove. You can now get to the back of the fridge.
But before you do all of this. Remove the drain tray inside the fridge. Try putting a water hose over the hole in the fridge – pulse the water a couple of times. It is possible you have some dirt blocking the drain hose and a little pressure might help clear it. This drains to the bilge.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hi all,
In our 54 there is an upright Frigoboat fridge in the galley which has the small freezer compartment at the top, and just below that is a tray to collect melted ice. That tray is connected to a small drain hose which disappears behind the fridge to where I do not know!. This hose seems to be blocked resulting in water accumulating at the bottom of the fridge, I would be grateful if someone has dealt with this before and could advise how to get access to this hose as it does not seem to be easy at all without some major dismantling which I'm reluctant to do without knowing what I'm doing.
Cheers, Paul Ya Fohi - Amell 54 #98
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Frigoboat drain hose blocked
ya_fohi
Hi all, In our 54 there is an upright Frigoboat fridge in the galley which has the small freezer compartment at the top, and just below that is a tray to collect melted ice. That tray is connected to a small drain hose which disappears behind the fridge to where I do not know!. This hose seems to be blocked resulting in water accumulating at the bottom of the fridge, I would be grateful if someone has dealt with this before and could advise how to get access to this hose as it does not seem to be easy at all without some major dismantling which I'm reluctant to do without knowing what I'm doing. Cheers, Paul Ya Fohi - Amell 54 #98
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Re: re caulking of stanchion base
greatketch@...
Paul,
What a timely question! I am in the process of doing exactly that. I have an impact wrench with a flat blade screwdriver bit that has been the only way most of these bolts come out. It is VITAL that the bit fit the screws very closely. When we bought Harmonie we were told that pulling these screws and re-seating them after treating with Tef-Gel should be a once in ten-year project on any Amel. If it is done often it is easy. If not... it is a miserable project. Rust at the base of the stanchions can come from three sources. On Harmonie there is no bedding compound between the flat part of the stanchion base and the fiberglass gunwale. This means that there is a fairly large flat area of stainless steel that is mostly excluded from the oxygen in the air that protects it from corrosion, but where water can creep in and get rust started. This is the least critical rust issue. I see it on each of the stanchions I have removed so far, even on those that showed no visible rust stains around them before removal. The bolts themselves can corrode on the underside of the head. Again, a place where water can get to, but has limited access to air. The problem with this is it can significantly weaken the bolt. I have seen stainless bolts with this kind of corrosion where the head literally fell off. So far I have found one bolt like this. The head twisted off when I put torque on it to remove. I am in the process now of drilling it out for removal. Not my idea of fun. The last possible source of rust staining is the most serious, and is the real reason for making this a routine maintenance project. When water finds its way down into the threads of the bolts it begins to corrode the steel plate that Amel set into the fiberglass. The resulting rust irresistibly expands and will destroy the fiberglass around it in a very slow motion explosion. This requires a complex, and expensive repair. The impact wrench has been successful at removing the bolts so far (except the one that broke!) After removal the heads are beat up enough that I am replacing them with the most corrosion resistant machine screws I can find--of 316L stainless. The rail has a joint about a meter forward of the aft corner. Once you get the rear two stanchions unbolted, that piece can be removed. (The stanchion all the way back on the transom is through bolted, not in a tapped hole.) Once you get a few stanchions unbolted, you will have enough "wiggle room" to lift each of the stanchion bases up, clean them up, and get some caulking under them. Since the stainless screws are going to be threaded into steel backing plates, they should be generously treated with Tef-Gel or whatever brand of anti-corrosion thread lubricant is your favorite. Then all will be better for another decade! Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Guidance on replacing Engine tray mounts
Stephen Davis
Hello James and Louise,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Congratulations on your new Amel. They are great boats, and this forum is a fantastic resource to help get you through the learning curve. With regards to your engine mounts, I would have them changed, and re-aligned before you use the boat much. Poor alignment and worn mounts can lead to breaking the coupling, or even worse, the coupling and the shaft could break. If you can find a mechanic that has done this before on an SM, that would be ideal. It can be done by a very handy owner, but requires lifting the engine a bit, and the alignment procedure is critical. Did I mention, it is not a fun job. Usually, Olivier is listening, and he has a very detailed alignment procedure he can provide. If he does not chime in soon, I’ll find my copy of the procedure, and forward it to you. Enjoy your new boat. Steve Davis Aloha SM 72 Hawaii
On Aug 6, 2018, at 5:03 AM, jamestim@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: re caulking of stanchion base
James
Hi Paul We've got the same issue, albeit a small one. Will be interested to hear what others think.. James S/V TITANIUM - Valencia, Spain SM2k #260
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re caulking of stanchion base
Hello! i have some very light rust stains at the base on some of my stanchion bases, which is the best way to re caulk them? Any idea how to get stubborn screws to loosen up? Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter
Mark Isaac
Thanks to all for your valuable experience and input. Mark Isaac Lulu SM 391 South Freeport, ME
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 main mast seal
Thank's Bob, This makes it easy to understand, I will only seal the outside edges with my 5200 which I believe will hold the pad together for awhile, I will be in the Caribbean in a year or so and would like to get the experts to do this for me. Did they replace with an original pad? I understand Amel are on August holiday, so I will inquire to get a pad when they are back. Thank's again to all for the help and advise. Best Regards Barry and Penny S/V Lady Penelope II Amel 54. #17 Sailing Croatia
On Monday, August 6, 2018, 6:45:28 AM EDT, Bob Hodgins bobh@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
Barry, -
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Guidance on replacing Engine tray mounts
James
Hi Amel owners! We have just purchased SM2k #260, very glad to have joined the family! We are trying to find out information on the motor tray mounts on SM2k (Volvo). Are these Amel items or regular vets/volvo ones? Has anyone replaced them? Our survey has shown excessive vibration pointing at worn mounts causing misalignment.. Enclosed some pics of the mounts in question. Thanks in advance! James & Louise S/V TITANIUM - Valencia, Spain SM2k
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter
greatketch@...
Mark,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
The Puddle Jump is held every year. The page referenced is a historical listing of all the articles published in the rally's sponsor magazine, Latitude 38, from 2005 through 2016. If you scan down the list, you will find for each year there is a "Recap" article published after the rally. Each of the "Recaps" include a table of the survey responses from the rally participants that includes passage speed information and breakdown experiences. For anyone not familiar, Latitude 38 is the local sailing rag for the San Francisco Bay area. One of the better local sailing magazines around. Of course mostly dedicated to the local news, but lots of information and news of general sailing interest as well. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA ---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote : Which article are you referring to? There are a lot of them on this page.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire www.creampuff.us
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 12:51 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter
An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38.
http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html
It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less.
It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar.
Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
Alexandre
Thank you, yes assume legal protection, using the drinking water becoming more and more frequent as it has its advantages Paul.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Paul,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
If I may point out regarding the “water cooled” units. “Chapter 3” of the Installation and Instruction Manual http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/Refer/Frigoboat_Manual_Rev_37.pdf it says: NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work with sea water only. They are not designed to use water from other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant pumped through secondary heat exchangers. Serious health risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being pumped directly into the system and then expelled back overboard. I assume this is some lawyer statement to prevent any type of potential lawsuit should the system leak into the fresh water tank. Personally, I would not have any issue using the fresh water tank, but wanted to point out the information. Sincerely, Alexandre. --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 8/6/18, osterberg.paul.l@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, August 6, 2018, 8:00 AM Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to the compressors. I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now. Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
Paul,
I did not opt for the water cooled units. I am happy with the basic air cooled unit. If I had to do it over, I might opt for the larger box evaporator but this would mean redoing the drain tray and plumbing in the unit. I am happy with the results.
Also, I should note the parts come pre-charged so the installation is just connecting the quick-connect fittings. No charging or Freon necessary.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed
the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a
freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are
cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited
corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very
energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump
outlet to the compressors.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to the compressors.
I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now. Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
James Cromie <jamescromie@...>
This is great. Thanks for sharing Mark.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Perhaps you’d be willing to share your private email with me- I wanted to ask some other questions. My email address is Jamescromie “at” yahoo dot com, and perhaps you could send me your email Thanks. James
On Aug 6, 2018, at 6:45 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question about the refrigiration system on an A54
Hi,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
As I understand it the 12vcirculating pumps for the fridge systems are standard 12v pumps but actually get 24v as measured. They work fine at the higher voltage and pump enough sea water to cool my three fridges on Amelia. I am sure you could replace them with a 24v pump but then you would draw double the current and maybe pump more water. As a matter of interest my three fridges worked fine in the West Indies but I noticed the flow of water out of the port through hull to be a bit feeble. So I investigated and there was a bit of crud in the pipe work so I flushed it out and now the flow is much faster though the fridges seam to be no less or indeed more happy. My conclusion is that the flow rate is not overly critical even in hot Caribbean and cool Azores. Nick Amelia (Amel 54 #019) Canary Islands
On 5 Aug 2018, at 12:26, arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Question about the refrigiration system on an A54
Hi Thomas,
Interesting information. I will check what the controller on our 54 supplies to the pump. It seems odd to supply a higher voltage to the pump that for which it has been designed. This again makes me believe the pump is actually a 24 volt model or else it would not last very long on 18 volts. Fact is that the spare pump (ours still works) is very quiet and does not get hot. So whatever Italian magic is going on in this system it's not all bad. I'm not so sure about the fresh water circulation. That will force you to keep a generous level of water in the tank or else the temperature will rise significantly. Polyester makes not a good heat-exchanger after all. Given the fact our watermaker is shot (and will take some time to be repaired), I see practical problems here. My preference would be to have centrifugal pumps instead of the ones currently installed. Centrifugal pumps are much better in handling raw water (no valves). So when are you to return to Curacao? Our 54 is actually less then 50 yards away from yours, on the same pontoon. Our hull number is 121 so I guess our boats were build more or less simultaneously. We will go on the dry next week if all goes as planned. Regards, Arno
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Original Autopilot Integration With New Chartplotter
Yes, interesting data. 27 boats (reporting) and one autopilot failure (another with leaky hydraulics) in 2016 crossing.
---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote : An interesting source of anecdotal information on failures underway is the annual recap article from the Pacific Puddle Jump Rally published in Latitude 38. http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/articles.html It's not terribly helpful to give real rates of failure since usually only about 25% of the boats actually fill out the end of rally survey, and the information is very sketchy about why things broke, but it give you an idea none the less. It's also really interesting to see real passage time data and engine hour usage instead of the kind of bragging one normally gets around the yacht club bar. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA
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Re: Amel 54 main mast seal
Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
Barry,
I had my main mast pad changed in January this year in Martinique. I watched and here is what they did. The jack system they had was specially made for the job. It was a single hand pump for the hydraulic, it was connected to two cylinders, one for each side of the mast. They placed large hard wood blocks on deck to distribute the load, on each side of the mast. The jack cylinders went on top of these blocks, and there was a custom made wood block that fit under the main winch on each side of the mast. When they pumped the jack, each side lifted exactly the same. They lifted it only about 35 or 40 cm, cleaned out the old pad and slid in the new one. You might not want to be putting 5200 under the mast because it will be difficult to clean out with that limited space to work under the foot. On the outside of the mast might be OK. My original pad was completely dissolved from age. I think the mast settled down that amount, and caused the rig to be loose. After installing the new pad, they tuned the rig using a tension gauge. I think they did a very good, professional job. Bob Hodgins Amel 54 #31 Currently in Raiatea, French Polynesia -
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
James,
I don’t use Costal Climate Control anymore after having a bad experience with them. I purchased the parts at Go2Marine (cheaper bc of free shipping). The part are the same except for the condensing unit. The old unit is no longer made. The new unit is a little smaller and much more efficient. If you have the low/high Amel set up you can bypass that as the compressor is variable speed and makes a lot less noise. Here is the list of parts I used:
SKU Description Qty. 422326 Frigoboat, 160H, Horizontal Box Evaporator, with Door 422330 Frigoboat, Mechanical Thermostat for Refrigerator 422313 Frigoboat, Capri 35F, Air Cooled Condensing Unit, with Speed Board, 12/24 volt
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Mark - Where did you source your replacement components for the refrigerator (thermostat, condenser, and compressor). Did you use Coastal Climate Control? What components did you use specifically (were you able to replace with exactly the same parts?).
Thanks, James SV Soteria SM 437
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