Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

amel46met
 

I have used my water tank, on my 1983 maramu #125, for 10 year. However if I were to build the system again I would use a bronze keel cooler in the water tank. 
Tom Deasy 


On Aug 8, 2018, at 4:14 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Out of curiosity I asked Veco (Annapolis Frigoboat/Climma distributor) about their warning to use only sea water for cooling, not tank water.  My questions are below with their answers in red. 

"Dear Veco,
I see in your Installation and Instruction Manual that you have a warning in Chapter 3 that the W35F and W50F Refrigeration Systems are designed to operate with sea water cooling only, not water from water tanks, etc. because serious health risks can occur. Frigoboat systems are designed for use with sea water only. There are no food-grade materials used, and if a condenser rupture were to occur there would be contamination of the drinking water from refrigerant and oil if the system was installed using the boat's water tanks.

I'm guessing the concern with using recirculating cooling water from a fresh water tank would be if the tank water were to heat up a lot or become insufficient, the refrigeration may not provide adequate cooling and food might spoil causing illness (and possible legal ramifications for your company). Absolutely. Also, we would rather not have the reputation of Frigoboat slighted by operators broadcasting of poor performance when in fact their systems have been installed and operated in a non-standard way.

Owner error might also allow the tank to become empty, although the system seemingly would respond as it would were a sea water feed to become clogged and no equipment damage would result. There is a temperature sensor on the condensing coil that will stop the compressor if it is seen that there is an inadequate supply of cooling water.

Can you confirm that the warning is indeed one to prevent owner error or is there actually an engineering issue with using fresh water from a tank?  That certainly seems not the issue as the system, I'm sure, will work fine in fresh water. By using recirculating water in a tank, you are adding several more steps of heat exchange. By using sea water we are always using a fresh source of water at a stable temperature. Heat travels from a higher temperature object to a lower temperature one, so for heat exchange to take place, there must be a difference in temperature between the two mediums, and the greater the difference, the more the heat exchange. The water recirculated back to the tank will be at a higher temperature than the water in the tank and so it will heat the water in the tank. The water in the tank has to be considerably warmer than its surroundings before it can dispense some of that heat, so the water in the tank will be warmer than the surroundings and the sea water. As the water in the tank gets warmer/hotter, there is less heat exchange, less efficiency, and more power is consumed due to elevated head pressures in the compressor. The Frigoboat W35 and W50 systems are designed to operate efficiently and safely with sea water at the maximum expected temperature. 
Best regards,
Craig Briggs
s/v Sangaris

I didn't word my last point very well - I meant to point out that the system doesn't care if it gets sea water or fresh water from, say, a river or in a lake. It's just a matter of them not wanting owners using tank water to avoid possible complaints, claims or the remote chance of drinking water contamination.

Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <uster@...> wrote :

Good morning Paul,

If I may point out regarding the “water cooled” units.
“Chapter 3” of the Installation and Instruction Manual
http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/Refer/Frigoboat_Manual_Rev_37.pdf
it says:
NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work with sea water only. They are not designed to use water from other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant pumped through secondary heat exchangers. Serious health risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being pumped directly into the system and then expelled back overboard.
I assume this is some lawyer statement to prevent any type of potential lawsuit should the system leak into the fresh water tank.
Personally, I would not have any issue using the fresh water tank, but wanted to point out the information.

Sincerely, Alexandre.



--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 8/6/18, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, August 6, 2018, 8:00 AM


 









Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled
compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the
fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where
the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are
cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water
tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem
to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice
from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to
the compressors.

I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet
as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice
even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer
fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change
compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now.

Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259
 

Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Adam Carpenter
 

Hi 

I too am looking raising the waterline aft and leveling it out to existing level at the bow, due to new weight distribution of SS solar arch, solar panels as added in 2015 and of course the contents of aft locker. The bow to mid ships id fine but the aft section requires constant scrubbing.

The challenge is removing this old boot strip before setting up the new waterline trim.

My question for the group is in about the original 2001 build orange boot stripe, is it a vinyl sticker or is it painted on.      

If it is a sticker, heat guns and scraping and / or decal eraser disks will be required. 

If it is painted on then fine grit sanding will be required.  

Any previous experiences or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Adam 
s/v Lady Annabelle
AMEL SM 2000 #339
Sydney Australia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

karkauai
 

Be careful...I remember when I was a kid my dad came home with a compressed air declogger for the toilet.  One blast and pipes broke in several places.  OK, it was an old house, but what a mess!

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

Paul,

Over the years I have had a number of clogged hoses, including the fuel hose, and also the strainer INSIDE the main fuel tank. YES THER IS A STRAINER BEHIND THE FUEL SHUTOFF VALVE ON THE FUEL TANK.

My solution was to put the bell of an air horn over the hose and give it a toot.

For the refrigerator I would do the same but use a very small amount f air as the hose is small.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 5:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

 

 

Paul,

 

Don’t be afraid to pull the fridge out a bit. On the SM53 there are only three thumb screw holding the unit in. (perhaps a 54 owner could chime in with the locations of the screws on the 54) Once the screws are out, it is possible to pull the fridge out about a foot without pulling it all the way out. Take off the cabinet doors in the kitchen under the sink (the whole panel should come off with the doors attached – look for the Phillips head screws (I think 2 or 3) lift and remove. You can now get to the back of the fridge.

 

But before you do all of this. Remove the drain tray inside the fridge. Try putting a water hose over the hole in the fridge – pulse the water a couple of times. It is possible you have some dirt blocking the drain hose and a little pressure might help clear it. This drains to the bilge.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

 

 

Hi all,

 

In our 54 there is an upright Frigoboat fridge in the galley which has the small freezer compartment at the top, and just below that is a tray to collect melted ice. That tray is connected to a small drain hose which disappears behind the fridge to where I do not know!. This hose seems to be blocked resulting in water accumulating at the bottom of the fridge, I would be grateful if someone has dealt with this before and could advise how to get access to this hose as it does not seem to be easy at all without some major dismantling which I'm reluctant to do without knowing what I'm doing.

 

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amell 54 #98

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] resurrecting an old dessalator

 

I would turn it on and be prepared to test the TDS of the produced water. 

This confirms what I have said before that many Amels were sold in Europe that never really went anywhere. I bet your downwind poles, rigging, and downwind sails are new as well.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 15:14 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Kent,

Thank you for the data point.  It seems likely we have the same setup.  I believe my membranes are 20", though I haven't measured them.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 10:57 PM Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,
I have SM 243, she has a 24V 60 L/H Desallator.  I'm not aboard now, but it sounds like that's what you have.  Two 20" membranes?
Kent


From: "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:15 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] resurrecting an old dessalator [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from Ryan Meador included below]
Hi all,

I'm unsure of which model Dessalator is installed on my boat.  I've attached a photo..  The info on the label on the motor reads:

Amel
No 830042
Type MBT1141L
29V60l/h9848

It appears this is a 24V-only unit.  Is this typical?  I haven't had luck searching the mailing list archives for more info. I think there is something wrong with Yahoo right now..  Can anyone identify this model?

This unit has 13 hours on it.  That is not a typo.  The previous owner said he used it a couple times when he first got the boat and then never again.  I do not know if it was pickled at that time, nor if it has been flushed in the interim.  Can anyone offer advice on what I should do before I try turning it on?  I know I'll need to replace the membranes before I use it, but I just want to see if everything else works or if it needs a more serious overhaul.

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

karkauai
 

We are still waiting to hear from Mark McGovern about using his or a friend's 3D printer to do this job....maybe in aluminum???

My printer guy says he'll forego the design fee and work up a price for the mechanism parts there are 3 different parts for each mechanism) on a per each basis if anyone wants some of those.  Please let me know.

So far I have the following people interested, black ABS plastic at $7 each for an order of 100.
Jose 5
Ryan 2
Craig 5
Bill K 14
Steve 20
Kent 15
John 10

That's 71 handles total.  If anyone else is interested, please let me know ASAP
Contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Running Rigging

karkauai
 

I don’t know what it is Craig...that’s what I’m asking.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


 

Hey Kent,


What line are you calling the "Tack Rope"?  
Sounds like an asym spinnaker pendant (non-Amel).

Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I am replacing my running rigging prior to S Pacific cruise.  Looking at the files section, I have a couple questions:

What is the Tack Rope (10mm Kevlar, 11.5 meters)???

What line do you use for manually furling the genoa?  Diameter and length???  Is it led through blocks at the toe rail to the small cockpit winches?  It must be pretty long as it has to go from the cockpit to the furler and back, and have enough more to furl the sail.

Thanks in advance.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

greatketch@...
 

Mark,

An impact driver is one of those tools you don't really need... until you do!

I am using a Ridgid cordless electric 1/2 inch drive impact driver.  If not this exact model, then one just like it. 

Nothing magic about the brand--it just used a battery that matched the drill I already owned.  The 1/2 inch drive makes finding attachments a bit more difficult, but it is a more powerful tool than the typical 1/4 inch snap-in attachments most consumer models use.   

I am sure the typical air drive impact wrench would do at least as well.  

I have tried a couple of the impact wrenches that are powered by manual hammer blows.  I have never found one that I thought was worth anything.

I have a collection of these kinds of bits in different sizes for various screw head sizes.  

For most of the screws a big, square shaft, screw driver that lets you turn it with a wrench will let you get enough torque to get the screws out.  Get the screwdrivers from one of the brands that offers a lifetime warrantee, you'll probably bend or break a few!  

It's really, really, important that when you use this much torque you have a tool that fits the screw really well otherwise you'll just destroy the screw head.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA








---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Bill,

 

Are you using an impact driver? Manual, air or electric?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

  

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

eric freedman
 

Paul,

Over the years I have had a number of clogged hoses, including the fuel hose, and also the strainer INSIDE the main fuel tank. YES THER IS A STRAINER BEHIND THE FUEL SHUTOFF VALVE ON THE FUEL TANK.

My solution was to put the bell of an air horn over the hose and give it a toot.

For the refrigerator I would do the same but use a very small amount f air as the hose is small.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 5:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

 

 

Paul,

 

Don’t be afraid to pull the fridge out a bit. On the SM53 there are only three thumb screw holding the unit in. (perhaps a 54 owner could chime in with the locations of the screws on the 54) Once the screws are out, it is possible to pull the fridge out about a foot without pulling it all the way out. Take off the cabinet doors in the kitchen under the sink (the whole panel should come off with the doors attached – look for the Phillips head screws (I think 2 or 3) lift and remove. You can now get to the back of the fridge.

 

But before you do all of this. Remove the drain tray inside the fridge. Try putting a water hose over the hole in the fridge – pulse the water a couple of times. It is possible you have some dirt blocking the drain hose and a little pressure might help clear it. This drains to the bilge.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked

 

 

Hi all,

 

In our 54 there is an upright Frigoboat fridge in the galley which has the small freezer compartment at the top, and just below that is a tray to collect melted ice. That tray is connected to a small drain hose which disappears behind the fridge to where I do not know!. This hose seems to be blocked resulting in water accumulating at the bottom of the fridge, I would be grateful if someone has dealt with this before and could advise how to get access to this hose as it does not seem to be easy at all without some major dismantling which I'm reluctant to do without knowing what I'm doing.

 

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amell 54 #98

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Running Rigging

karkauai
 

Thanks Ian.  I guess I anticipate that if the furler fails it will likely be in nasty weather and big seas.  I’d like to be able to furl and unfurl without going to the foredeck.  I’ll do some measuring and post what I end up getting.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy



On Aug 7, 2018, at 4:10 AM, Ian Park parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent
For Genoa furling just experiment. My switch needed cleaning so I sat on the foredeck with 8m of 10mm. It didn’t take long to fuel and little effort.
Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Australe Clothes Washer Questions

karkauai
 

Thank you Mark.  I’ll give that a try.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Aug 4, 2018, at 4:04 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

Here is a link to the correct size belt: https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1741942/compatible-washing-machine-poly-vee-drive-bel Espares ships internationally at very reasonable rates.

 

The reason your belt broke is because the drum is ceased. The most probable cause for this is the drum bearing being frozen. Perhaps the unit hasn’t been used in a while. It is an easy fix. Open the washer from the top. Open the inner drum (hopefully it is stuck so you can access the inside). When facing the washer (with your back to the nav-station) you will see a perforated cover held on with 4 screws on the right side of the drum. Remove this cover. Vacuum out any soap crud. Use a penetrating oil and spay the bearing in this area. It is hard to see the bearing but if you spray in enough oil it will find its way. The drum will work free if you rock it back and forth. Let the oil do its job. If you can let it sit overnight, even better. Once the drum is free, keep spinning it by hand.. Without the belt you should be able to give it a good amount of oomph and it will spin a few revolutions before stopping. Install the new belt. Cycle the washer at least once without cloths to remove the remnants of the oil.

 

In future, you can prevent the belt from breaking if you ensure the drum is turning freely when you put in the laundry.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 4, 2018 12:53 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Australe Clothes Washer Questions

 

 

Hi all,

I hope everyone is having a great summer (or winter as the case may be),

 

The belt on my Thomson Australe broke.  I found a replacement which appears to be identical to the one tha broke, but when I try to install the new belt, I'm lacking a good 30mm or so to get it on.  To make matters more difficult, the drum is locked, and I can't figure out how to get it unlocked so I can (hopefully) turn the drum while I try to install the new belt.

 

I'm sure someone else has done this, can you tell me how you got the new belt on?

 

Thanks in advance.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

Currently at Yacht Maintenance in Cambridge, MD USA, pulling masts and booms for painting, replacing all running rigging, repairing sails, adding reclining loveseat where settee and pullout sea berth are removed, adding tool chest to forward hanging locker, adding drawer under companionway ladder, rebedding cabintop hatches, replacing/raising cockpit cover and enclosure.......

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

James Alton
 

Sorry, there is an error in my last post.  The last line should have read “hex cap”,  not just hex.  Apologies.  James

On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:58 PM, James Alton <Lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Bill Kinney,

   Actually you may have done yourself a favour by using the slotted head style.  While the hex and square drive heads are really convenient since slippage of the tool is reduced, in my experience the maximum torque that you can apply to the head is not nearly as great as with the slotted head in a screw material that is not hardened.  I have driven probably upwards of 30,000 slotted bronze and stainless screws slotted screws and if the tool fits the head really well and the the screws are driven true, it is quite possible to twist the head right off of the screw if too much torque is applied, often without any damage to the slot in the head.  2 years ago, I drove 6000 square drive screws and I had to be quite careful to keep the torque down to prevent the square in the screw from beginning to yield.  I never broke off a single head due to the torque limitation and had to throw out several hundred screws that were damaged.  Future removal of those screws is very iffy IMO.  I think that the square and perhaps the hex drives are more suitable in a material where the head can be hardened such as a deck screw made of carbon steel.  I am not a fastener expert so just sharing my experiences but unless I can find a good reason to switch from the original slotted, I am going back with the original head installed by Amel.   If anyone has any information showing that a head other than hex beats the maximum torque of a slotted head, please enlighten me.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Aug 7, 2018, at 12:10 PM, mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Davi,


That screw is black oxide coated mild steel.  It will rust in no time.  You want to use 316 Stainless Steel screws whenever you can on the boat.  Certainly for anything that is exposed to salt water.  Here is a link to a 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head screw should work for this application:  https://www.mcmaster.com/#93395a410/=1e1x4s3

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Davi,

That doesn't look like the right screw...  I do not think it is stainless...

The best choice would be part number Grainger Item# 26LG09  But before you order them, pull out one of t he existing screws to be sure the size and length is right!  All I know is what screws were used on my boat...

I used Grainger part number 31JR46.  It has a slotted head. I ordered them before I saw Joel's excellent suggestion to use the socket head screws. Next time!
 
Compass Marine has an excellent "how-to" page on the how's and why's of using butyl tape for sealing deck hardware.  https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill, Hi there.... is this the screw for the job, from grainger? I think I might be needing this soon on my SM #56... Got some butyl tape ordered too...so would I unseat the stanchion, clean the rust from everything, tef gel the screws as per your instructions in this thread, then only use butyl tape to cover the whole stanchion base and rescrew everything down? 

Many thanks... 
Davi
 
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   Actually you may have done yourself a favour by using the slotted head style.  While the hex and square drive heads are really convenient since slippage of the tool is reduced, in my experience the maximum torque that you can apply to the head is not nearly as great as with the slotted head in a screw material that is not hardened.  I have driven probably upwards of 30,000 slotted bronze and stainless screws slotted screws and if the tool fits the head really well and the the screws are driven true, it is quite possible to twist the head right off of the screw if too much torque is applied, often without any damage to the slot in the head.  2 years ago, I drove 6000 square drive screws and I had to be quite careful to keep the torque down to prevent the square in the screw from beginning to yield.  I never broke off a single head due to the torque limitation and had to throw out several hundred screws that were damaged.  Future removal of those screws is very iffy IMO.  I think that the square and perhaps the hex drives are more suitable in a material where the head can be hardened such as a deck screw made of carbon steel.  I am not a fastener expert so just sharing my experiences but unless I can find a good reason to switch from the original slotted, I am going back with the original head installed by Amel.   If anyone has any information showing that a head other than hex beats the maximum torque of a slotted head, please enlighten me.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Aug 7, 2018, at 12:10 PM, mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Davi,


That screw is black oxide coated mild steel.  It will rust in no time.  You want to use 316 Stainless Steel screws whenever you can on the boat.  Certainly for anything that is exposed to salt water.  Here is a link to a 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head screw should work for this application:  https://www.mcmaster.com/#93395a410/=1e1x4s3

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
 


---In amelyachtowners@...,
Davi,

That doesn't look like the right screw...  I do not think it is stainless...

The best choice would be part number Grainger Item# 26LG09  But before you order them, pull out one of t he existing screws to be sure the size and length is right!  All I know is what screws were used on my boat...

I used Grainger part number 31JR46.  It has a slotted head. I ordered them before I saw Joel's excellent suggestion to use the socket head screws. Next time!
 
Compass Marine has an excellent "how-to" page on the how's and why's of using butyl tape for sealing deck hardware.  https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@...,
Bill, Hi there.... is this the screw for the job, from grainger? I think I might be needing this soon on my SM #56... Got some butyl tape ordered too...so would I unseat the stanchion, clean the rust from everything, tef gel the screws as per your instructions in this thread, then only use butyl tape to cover the whole stanchion base and rescrew everything down? 

Many thanks... 
Davi
 
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

 

Are you using an impact driver? Manual, air or electric?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 7:00 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

 

 

James,

 

The bolts on Harmonie are Flat head machine screws, M8-1.25 x 30mm  I see no evidence that they had ever been removed since the boat was built in 1996.

 

We are very much on the same page with thinking about the issues/concerns in getting those bolts sealed back up.  If you read Joel's notes he does mention adding sealant under the stanchion base in addition to the tef-gel on the threads.  Done properly, that should keep the water away from the steel.

 

I think the combination is much better than just putting a dab of silicon on the screws as was done on my boat.

 

Here is my approach:

 

Each bolt hole will have a chamfer cut into the surface of the fiberglass with a countersink bit.

 

The bolts will have a thin coat of tef-gel added to the bottom couple of threads.  I might just put some down in the bolt hole to minimize contact with the upper threads--for all the reasons you expressed. Another alternative is to apply tef-gel to a screw, insert it all the way in the hole to smear the tef-gel on the female threads, then remove it and use a clean screw for final assembly.

 

The bottom of the stanchion base will have a layer of butyl sealing tape applied, with a little more wrapped around the bolt at the very top of the threads.

 

Butyl tape "flows" amazingly well.  Even if the threads of the bolts have a bit of tef-gel on them, I am confident that the butyl flowing into the chamfer I made at the top of the hole will be good enough to keep water out.

 

This basic technique has worked well for me in the past in similar situations. 

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sail for Amel 54

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Dear Amelians,
I'm also evaluating a downwind / lightwind solution for my AMEL54, but I have the older configuration than Thomas, two separate poles, one on each side to be mounted to the mastfoot.
Other than that my requirements are identical to Thomas'. I haven't seen responses toThomas message, and appreciate each and every advice from the group.
fair winds,
Alex Ramseyer
AMEL54 #15
NO STRESS

On Tuesday, July 10, 2018, 5:18:54 AM GMT-4, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Hi all,

We need to replace our 10year old Genaker that died in the Atlantic ocean crossing. 

We are looking for a sail that can:

1. Be poled out opposite to the poled out genoa for 150°-210° downwind sailing (our 54 has the 3 pole attachment mast foot, 1 forward and two side),

2. sustain robust trade winds in that configuration (say up to 18knt apparent wind, 27 true wind). Or in other words such that we can near hull speed before we need to take it down to protect the sail itself. Our Genaker was  old and tired but it always felt a bit too light for the intended purposes,

3. be suitable for furler-emmagasinneur furling (A54 don’t have the SM ballooner setup, sadly)

4. Ideally, could also perform for reaching in light winds. Our hydranet sails are heavy and need 10kn apparent wind to fly properly. In other words, a sail to complement the beloved secret sail (mizzen staysail) in the prevalent conditions (150° to 100° awa).

5. Ideally, survive tropical sun as best as possible,

We spoke to sailmakers and I felt they are not very accustomed to the needs of long term cruising boats with ketch rigging. 

So i’m seeking feedback from the experienced sailors of this group, to see if there is a compromise to these requirements.


Many thanks in advance,


Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curacao 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] resurrecting an old dessalator

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Kent,

Thank you for the data point.  It seems likely we have the same setup.  I believe my membranes are 20", though I haven't measured them.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 10:57 PM Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,
I have SM 243, she has a 24V 60 L/H Desallator.  I'm not aboard now, but it sounds like that's what you have.  Two 20" membranes?
Kent


From: "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:15 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] resurrecting an old dessalator [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from Ryan Meador included below]
Hi all,

I'm unsure of which model Dessalator is installed on my boat.  I've attached a photo..  The info on the label on the motor reads:

Amel
No 830042
Type MBT1141L
29V60l/h9848

It appears this is a 24V-only unit.  Is this typical?  I haven't had luck searching the mailing list archives for more info. I think there is something wrong with Yahoo right now..  Can anyone identify this model?

This unit has 13 hours on it.  That is not a typo.  The previous owner said he used it a couple times when he first got the boat and then never again.  I do not know if it was pickled at that time, nor if it has been flushed in the interim.  Can anyone offer advice on what I should do before I try turning it on?  I know I'll need to replace the membranes before I use it, but I just want to see if everything else works or if it needs a more serious overhaul.

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

karkauai
 

Hi Philipp,

I am going to replace my SM 2K cockpit enclosure with a Bimini type top.  If you want my framework, I will ship it to you at your cost.

Kent
Kristy
SM 243
Currently St Michaels MD USA

On Jul 28, 2018, at 11:01 AM, philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi dear Super Maramu Experts,


I think about to change my old installation of the cockpit cover on my SM#124 to the installation on the SM2K.

For this action I asked AMEL in La Rochelle and NV Equipment as well, but unfortunately I didn't get an answer that they could help.

Does anybody has a map with the dimensions of the inox tubes and also where to fix them on the cockpit triangle.


Many thanks for all support!


Philipp

SM#124, Félicie, Bâle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine tray mounts

karkauai
 

Hi James,
Best advice I can give you is to get a surveyor very familiar with Amels.  I would get Olivier Beaute to do it and pay to fly him to where ever the boat is.  There is another well-thought-of Amel surveyor in Europe whose name you should be able to find on this forum.  I would also get Bill Rouse to assess the boat with you and take his Amel School as soon after purchasing the boat as possible.

Here’s how I replaced the mounts and aligned the engine with the CDrive.


Aligning the engine with the CDrive:
Have a solid aluminum piece made that has the same dimensions and bolt holes as the Vetus coupling.  Align the engine within recommended tolerances using this solid piece, mark everything, then replace the solid piece with the Vetus coupling.

Replacing the Engine Mounts:
I replaced my engine mounts a few years ago using Yanmar’s recommended mounts after repowering with a Yanmar 4JH4HTE 110HP.  The engine sits on the angle iron cradle and the cradle sits on the engine mounts which bolt to the stringers.  After removing the engine, the mounts were changed one at a time using the other existing mounts to keep the cradle where it was.  The new mounts were taller than the originals and the new engine required additional shims between the cradle and engine to get good alignment.

If this isn’t clear, let me know and I’ll try again.

Kent
Kristy SM243
Currently StMichaels MD USA

On Jul 28, 2018, at 9:08 AM, jamestim@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Hi Bill

The tray is in good condition and not rusty, just the forward mounts. They are old and just leaked the oil thats oil I think. Also, raw water pump leak would be enough of an explanation. 

Main reason for the replacement is just to clear up the alignment issues should there be one after realigning. More a preventive measure.

But yes, the tray is fine..

Thanks

James

Re: re caulking of stanchion base

mfmcgovern@...
 

Davi,

That screw is black oxide coated mild steel.  It will rust in no time.  You want to use 316 Stainless Steel screws whenever you can on the boat.  Certainly for anything that is exposed to salt water.  Here is a link to a 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head screw should work for this application:  https://www.mcmaster.com/#93395a410/=1e1x4s3

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Davi,

That doesn't look like the right screw...  I do not think it is stainless...

The best choice would be part number Grainger Item# 26LG09  But before you order them, pull out one of the existing screws to be sure the size and length is right!  All I know is what screws were used on my boat...

I used Grainger part number 31JR46.  It has a slotted head. I ordered them before I saw Joel's excellent suggestion to use the socket head screws. Next time!
 
Compass Marine has an excellent "how-to" page on the how's and why's of using butyl tape for sealing deck hardware.  https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote :

Bill, Hi there.... is this the screw for the job, from grainger? I think I might be needing this soon on my SM #56... Got some butyl tape ordered too...so would I unseat the stanchion, clean the rust from everything, tef gel the screws as per your instructions in this thread, then only use butyl tape to cover the whole stanchion base and rescrew everything down? 

Many thanks... 
Davi
 
 

Re: re caulking of stanchion base

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Davi,
Suggest you use phosphoric acid to clean the rust and put some into the hole.  That will also passivate any rust on the embedded carbon steel plate, thus slowing future rusting.
Best, Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote :

Bill, Hi there.... is this the screw for the job, from grainger? I think I might be needing this soon on my SM #56... Got some butyl tape ordered too...so would I unseat the stanchion, clean the rust from everything, tef gel the screws as per your instructions in this thread, then only use butyl tape to cover the whole stanchion base and rescrew everything down? 

Many thanks... 
Davi

Re: re caulking of stanchion base

mfmcgovern@...
 

Davi,

Those are black oxide coated mild steel.  They will rust in no time in that environment.  You want them made from 316 Stainless Steel.  Something like these should work:  https://www.mcmaster.com/#93395a410/=1e1x4s3

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA