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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K
Agreed, Danny.
I have a full cockpit enclosure, but it’s getting very tired after 10 years. I can’t stand up in the cockpit without bending over a bit. I’m removing the old cockpit cover and installing a new frame that attaches to the dodger and both mizzen shrouds on each side to cover the whole cockpit. It will have a full cockpit enclosure, and I’ll be able to stand up and see all around with the “Bimini” up all the time and with the full enclosure in place. I’m adding two more flexible solar panels on this as well. It will have two large “windows” that allow viewing the sails, with covers to keep the sun out when not in use. I’m also making a full sunscreen enclosure that will help with insects as well. Kent SM 243 Kristy Hi Kent, I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them. In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear. When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable. And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in. While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiable. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago) I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives. And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom Kind Regards Danny
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Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM
Hi Adam,
On our '92 SN the orange boot stripe was gelcoat. We simply sanded it before applying the new higher awlgrip paint boot stripe. Craig, SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <coastalseas@...> wrote : Hi I too am looking raising the waterline aft and leveling it out to existing level at the bow, due to new weight distribution of SS solar arch, solar panels as added in 2015 and of course the contents of aft locker. The bow to mid ships id fine but the aft section requires constant scrubbing. The challenge is removing this old boot strip before setting up the new waterline trim. My question for the group is in about the original 2001 build orange boot stripe, is it a vinyl sticker or is it painted on. If it is a sticker, heat guns and scraping and / or decal eraser disks will be required. If it is painted on then fine grit sanding will be required. Any previous experiences or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Adam s/v Lady Annabelle AMEL SM 2000 #339 Sydney Australia
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Re: re caulking of stanchion base
mfmcgovern@...
I work in automotive and have dealt with my share of seized fasteners. Which bolt head type is "best" is an age-old question and one that does not really seem to have a definitive, scientific answer. Here's a pretty good run-down of most of the available options: https://www.wiha.com/en/screw-head-types/
In reality, the four head types that you can find relatively easy in 316 Stainless Steel in the sizes we would use on an Amel are: 1. Slot Head 2. Phillips Head 3. Socket Head/Allen Head (internal hex) 4. Hex Head (external hex) In my experience, Slot Head is by far the worst choice in terms of both the amount of torque you can apply and in keeping the tool on the fastener head. However, it is available in the most sizes/lengths and is usually the cheapest option. Phillips Head will let you apply the most torque to the screw head. However, you have to be able to apply a good bit of axial force (pushing the screwdriver down into the screw head) in order to avoid the screwdriver slipping out. Socket Head/Allen Head/Hex Head is a good choice when you have limited access to the screw head and you can't apply a lot of axial force. However, you cannot apply a lot of torque to the head before stripping it out. Socket Head/Allen head are "prettier" and come in a flat head version which can sit flush in countersunk holes like the ones in the SM stanchion bases that we are talking about in this thread. www.mcmaster.com and www.grainger.com are two good places to find 316 Stainless Steel fasteners in the USA. Mark McGovern SM 440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Excellent !!!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
That confirm what I/we thought! Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/7/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 7:58 AM Out of curiosity I asked Veco (Annapolis Frigoboat/Climma distributor) about their warning to use only sea water for cooling, not tank water. My questions are below with their answers in red. "Dear Veco,I see in your Installation and Instruction Manual that you have a warning in Chapter 3 that the W35F and W50F Refrigeration Systems are designed to operate with sea water cooling only, not water from water tanks, etc. because serious health risks can occur. Frigoboat systems are designed for use with sea water only. There are no food-grade materials used, and if a condenser rupture were to occur there would be contamination of the drinking water from refrigerant and oil if the system was installed using the boat's water tanks. I'm guessing the concern with using recirculating cooling water from a fresh water tank would be if the tank water were to heat up a lot or become insufficient, the refrigeration may not provide adequate cooling and food might spoil causing illness (and possible legal ramifications for your company). Absolutely. Also, we would rather not have the reputation of Frigoboat slighted by operators broadcasting of poor performance when in fact their systems have been installed and operated in a non-standard way. Owner error might also allow the tank to become empty, although the system seemingly would respond as it would were a sea water feed to become clogged and no equipment damage would result. There is a temperature sensor on the condensing coil that will stop the compressor if it is seen that there is an inadequate supply of cooling water. Can you confirm that the warning is indeed one to prevent owner error or is there actually an engineering issue with using fresh water from a tank? That certainly seems not the issue as the system, I'm sure, will work fine in fresh water. By using recirculating water in a tank, you are adding several more steps of heat exchange. By using sea water we are always using a fresh source of water at a stable temperature. Heat travels from a higher temperature object to a lower temperature one, so for heat exchange to take place, there must be a difference in temperature between the two mediums, and the greater the difference, the more the heat exchange. The water recirculated back to the tank will be at a higher temperature than the water in the tank and so it will heat the water in the tank. The water in the tank has to be considerably warmer than its surroundings before it can dispense some of that heat, so the water in the tank will be warmer than the surroundings and the sea water. As the water in the tank gets warmer/hotter, there is less heat exchange, less efficiency, and more power is consumed due to elevated head pressures in the compressor. The Frigoboat W35 and W50 systems are designed to operate efficiently and safely with sea water at the maximum expected temperature. Best regards,Craig Briggss/v Sangaris I didn't word my last point very well - I meant to point out that the system doesn't care if it gets sea water or fresh water from, say, a river or in a lake. It's just a matter of them not wanting owners using tank water to avoid possible complaints, claims or the remote chance of drinking water contamination. Craig ---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <uster@...> wrote : Good morning Paul, If I may point out regarding the “water cooled” units. “Chapter 3” of the Installation and Instruction Manual http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/Refer/Frigoboat_Manual_Rev_37.pdf it says: NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work with sea water only. They are not designed to use water from other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant pumped through secondary heat exchangers. Serious health risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being pumped directly into the system and then expelled back overboard. I assume this is some lawyer statement to prevent any type of potential lawsuit should the system leak into the fresh water tank. Personally, I would not have any issue using the fresh water tank, but wanted to point out the information. Sincerely, Alexandre. -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 8/6/18, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, August 6, 2018, 8:00 AM Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in the fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer where the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors are cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No problem to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No noice from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet to the compressors. I have thought of doing something about the fridge cabinet as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now. Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K
Patrick McAneny
Danny, I have always looked at those dual wheels, fully exposed to the sun,wind ,rain and spray and shook my head. They are welcome to it , I have said a dozen times that I am surprised more helms are not located forward as the Amels. But they do look sporty ! Just not practical.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Say Hey to Yvonne,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 7:01 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K Hi Kent,
I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them.
In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear. When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable.
And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in.
While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiab
le. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago)
I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives.
And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom
Kind Regards
Danny
On 08 August 2018 at 04:19 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K
Hi Danny,
I had to laugh about you never wearing wet weather gear. We have a similar enclosure setup on Cream Puff. I’m not sure I even know where the wet weather gear is anymore. While we don’t have near as many miles as you, we love the setup and agree the fully enclosed cockpit is invaluable.
We also made matching panels with insect screens. They can be easily substituted for the clear panels of the enclosure. These have proven wonderful for two reasons. First, it obviously keeps the bugs out on anchor. Second, they provide shade while letting air circulate the cockpit.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hi Kent, I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them. In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear. When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable. And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in. While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiable. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago) I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives. And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom Kind Regards Danny
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Re: SM Running Rigging
Miles
Hello Kent,
The Tack Rope material is what Amel uses for the outhaul on the boom and for the main sheet car traveler. I think that if you measure them you will find this to be the case.
For manually furling the genoa, my boat came with a black and white line that is also used to attach to the short main halyard for lowering the main sail and to furl the genoa. For the Genoa, the ends are tied together to make a big loop, then led around the furler to two blocks at the toe rail and back to either the power or small winch and then to a block held by a long bungee to the back big deck cleat.
I hope that this is clear enough to make sense. If you see it on another boat, it will be clear.
I will be interested to hear how your work on the boat turns out. Regards, Miles s/y Ladybug, sm216, Newport, RI
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base
Bill,
Thanks for the info.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Mark,
An impact driver is one of those tools you don't really need... until you do!
I am using a Ridgid cordless electric 1/2 inch drive impact driver. If not this exact model, then one just like it.
Nothing magic about the brand--it just used a battery that matched the drill I already owned. The 1/2 inch drive makes finding attachments a bit more difficult, but it is a more powerful tool than the typical 1/4 inch snap-in attachments most consumer models use.
I am sure the typical air drive impact wrench would do at least as well.
I have tried a couple of the impact wrenches that are powered by manual hammer blows. I have never found one that I thought was worth anything.
I have a collection of these kinds of bits in different sizes for various screw head sizes.
For most of the screws a big, square shaft, screw driver that lets you turn it with a wrench will let you get enough torque to get the screws out. Get the screwdrivers from one of the brands that offers a lifetime warrantee, you'll probably bend or break a few!
It's really, really, important that when you use this much torque you have a tool that fits the screw really well otherwise you'll just destroy the screw head.
Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA
Bill,
Are you using an impact driver? Manual, air or electric?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
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rudder pulls to starboard
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi All, a little while ago someone posted regarding their SM pulling to starboard when under motor. A number of possibilities were explored by members. I think I have the answer. Today, my dawn departure from Whangaroa (Northland New Zealand)was windless and the harbour was glass calm. Motoring at about 7 knots and 2000 rpm I felt a pull to starboard on the wheel. I let it turn a bit and the pressure increased. Having just had her out for the biannual refit I know the rudder is perfect as is the propeller, the hull and the keel. Later, sailing in light wind the helm was perfectly balanced. I think the starboard pull must by caused by prop wash (not prop walk) The rudder is quite a long way aft of the propeller and I suspect the turbulence from it must strike the rudder on the port side. This phenomenon is unlikely to be apparent in any seaway and would probably require a number of ducks to be in line. Likewise the steering would have to be very free turning, ie cables and rack and pinion in first rate order. Any stiffness would conceal the pressure. That's my offering.. Kind Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Kent, I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them. In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear. When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable. And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in. While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiable. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago) I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives. And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom Kind Regards Danny
On 08 August 2018 at 04:19 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K
philipp.sollberger@...
Hi Kent,
I'm interested but it depends on the dimensions of the package. Because I think, that there are limitations on the cargo transport to La Rochelle Pallice if they have to transport it by post from Brest or Amsterdam . Do you have an idea about the amount of the costs to transport it to France or Switzerland? I need your inox tubes or better if it is not to transport, maybe you could send me the dimensions of the inox tubes, that I can let change them by an inox yard in LR. Many thanks for your perfect service! Fair winds, Philipp
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM
We did the same.
Just raised the antifoul up to the, in our case, red stripe. It is all paint on ours, no vinyl stripping required. Some have laser lined it and lifted the waterline gradually from bow to stern. We considered that, but in the end it was quicker and easier just to lift the whole waterline. Sure its a bit high ate the bow, but so what, NO MORE SCRUBBING !! It was well worth it Good luck Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 Port Vila
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Adam,
We raised our antifouling ( in our case, Coppercoat) to the top of the orange stripe, thus covering it. We then left an inch of white hull above which we added a new boot line.
It took a bit of courage to raise that much and we only did so after looking endlessly at other boats. What we found is that that there is no "only" way to define your waterline and boot top.
Really happy we did it. It looks great. No more scrubbing the waterline and less hull to clean and polish.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece
From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of coastalseas@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 08 August 2018 02:29:26 To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM Hi I too am looking raising the waterline aft and leveling it out to existing level at the bow, due to new weight distribution of SS solar arch, solar panels as added in 2015 and of course the contents of aft locker. The bow to mid ships id fine but the aft
section requires constant scrubbing.
The challenge is removing this old boot strip before setting up the new waterline trim.
My question for the group is in about the original 2001 build orange boot stripe, is it a vinyl sticker or is it painted on.
If it is a sticker, heat guns and scraping and / or decal eraser disks will be required.
If it is painted on then fine grit sanding will be required.
Any previous experiences or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
Adam
s/v Lady Annabelle
AMEL SM 2000 #339
Sydney Australia
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
amel46met
I have used my water tank, on my 1983 maramu #125, for 10 year. However if I were to build the system again I would use a bronze keel cooler in the water tank.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Tom Deasy
On Aug 8, 2018, at 4:14 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM
Adam Carpenter
Hi
I too am looking raising the waterline aft and leveling it out to existing level at the bow, due to new weight distribution of SS solar arch, solar panels as added in 2015 and of course the contents of aft locker. The bow to mid ships id fine but the aft section requires constant scrubbing. The challenge is removing this old boot strip before setting up the new waterline trim. My question for the group is in about the original 2001 build orange boot stripe, is it a vinyl sticker or is it painted on. If it is a sticker, heat guns and scraping and / or decal eraser disks will be required. If it is painted on then fine grit sanding will be required. Any previous experiences or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Adam s/v Lady Annabelle AMEL SM 2000 #339 Sydney Australia
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked
Be careful...I remember when I was a kid my dad came home with a compressed air declogger for the toilet. One blast and pipes broke in several places. OK, it was an old house, but what a mess!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kent S/V Kristy SM 243 Paul, Over the years I have had a number of clogged hoses, including the fuel hose, and also the strainer INSIDE the main fuel tank. YES THER IS A STRAINER BEHIND THE FUEL SHUTOFF VALVE ON THE FUEL TANK. My solution was to put the bell of an air horn over the hose and give it a toot. For the refrigerator I would do the same but use a very small amount f air as the hose is small. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 5:24 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Frigoboat drain hose blocked
Paul,
Don’t be afraid to pull the fridge out a bit. On the SM53 there are only three thumb screw holding the unit in. (perhaps a 54 owner could chime in with the locations of the screws on the 54) Once the screws are out, it is possible to pull the fridge out about a foot without pulling it all the way out. Take off the cabinet doors in the kitchen under the sink (the whole panel should come off with the doors attached – look for the Phillips head screws (I think 2 or 3) lift and remove. You can now get to the back of the fridge.
But before you do all of this. Remove the drain tray inside the fridge. Try putting a water hose over the hole in the fridge – pulse the water a couple of times. It is possible you have some dirt blocking the drain hose and a little pressure might help clear it. This drains to the bilge.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Bonaire
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hi all,
In our 54 there is an upright Frigoboat fridge in the galley which has the small freezer compartment at the top, and just below that is a tray to collect melted ice. That tray is connected to a small drain hose which disappears behind the fridge to where I do not know!. This hose seems to be blocked resulting in water accumulating at the bottom of the fridge, I would be grateful if someone has dealt with this before and could advise how to get access to this hose as it does not seem to be easy at all without some major dismantling which I'm reluctant to do without knowing what I'm doing.
Cheers, Paul Ya Fohi - Amell 54 #98
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] resurrecting an old dessalator
I would turn it on and be prepared to test the TDS of the produced water. This confirms what I have said before that many Amels were sold in Europe that never really went anywhere. I bet your downwind poles, rigging, and downwind sails are new as well. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 15:14 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls
We are still waiting to hear from Mark McGovern about using his or a friend's 3D printer to do this job....maybe in aluminum??? My printer guy says he'll forego the design fee and work up a price for the mechanism parts there are 3 different parts for each mechanism) on a per each basis if anyone wants some of those. Please let me know. So far I have the following people interested, black ABS plastic at $7 each for an order of 100. Jose 5 Ryan 2 Craig 5 Bill K 14 Steve 20 Kent 15 John 10 That's 71 handles total. If anyone else is interested, please let me know ASAP Contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Running Rigging
I don’t know what it is Craig...that’s what I’m asking.
Kent SM243 Kristy Hey Kent, What line are you calling the "Tack Rope"? Sounds like an asym spinnaker pendant (non-Amel). Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : I am replacing my running rigging prior to S Pacific cruise. Looking at the files section, I have a couple questions: What is the Tack Rope (10mm Kevlar, 11.5 meters)??? What line do you use for manually furling the genoa? Diameter and length??? Is it led through blocks at the toe rail to the small cockpit winches? It must be pretty long as it has to go from the cockpit to the furler and back, and have enough more to furl the sail. Thanks in advance. Kent SM 243 Kristy
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base
greatketch@...
Mark, An impact driver is one of those tools you don't really need... until you do! I am using a Ridgid cordless electric 1/2 inch drive impact driver. If not this exact model, then one just like it. Nothing magic about the brand--it just used a battery that matched the drill I already owned. The 1/2 inch drive makes finding attachments a bit more difficult, but it is a more powerful tool than the typical 1/4 inch snap-in attachments most consumer models use. I am sure the typical air drive impact wrench would do at least as well. I have tried a couple of the impact wrenches that are powered by manual hammer blows. I have never found one that I thought was worth anything. For most of the screws a big, square shaft, screw driver that lets you turn it with a wrench will let you get enough torque to get the screws out. Get the screwdrivers from one of the brands that offers a lifetime warrantee, you'll probably bend or break a few! It's really, really, important that when you use this much torque you have a tool that fits the screw really well otherwise you'll just destroy the screw head. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Annapolis, MD, USA ---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote : Bill,
Are you using an impact driver? Manual, air or electric?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
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