Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] paying Amel for parts order

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

What an odd bank that can't do an international payment.

Try www.transferwise.com they are fast and cheap.

If your cards were anythingelse than Visa or Mastercard, it could explain the trouble.

/Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM232



Skickat från min iPad

8 aug. 2018 kl. 15:42 skrev Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi all,

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

How do you folks pay for your orders?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: re caulking of stanchion base

James Alton
 

Mark,

   Thanks for your input.  I am really curious to know if you found any data confirming that the Phillips head can transfer more torque to the screw than a slotted head because I would really like to know!   I have generally had worse luck with removing old Phillips screws than slotted but that could be the tools and or technique.  If you have learned any tricks l would be interested to know. 
     Without a doubt the slotted head fastener can be the most difficult to deal with in regards to slippage since there is nothing there to keep the centering.  Also the slot width seems to vary and the available tools seldom fit properly which is critical as Bill K. also states to successfully avoid slippage when applying high torque.  Proper fit usually requires me to grind a fatter tool down.   Finally, the shape of the tool tip is very critical.  Many of the tips I buy are tapered which will cause the tool to cam out of the slot.  What you want is a tip that is actually slightly undercut in that the very end/ tip of the tool is slightly thicker than the part of the tool that would otherwise contact the top of the screw head.  You want to put the pressure on the very bottom of the screw slot, not the top or else the pressure tends to open the slot creating the dreaded Vee shape that wants to cam out.  The bottom edges of the tool should be sharp which seems to cause the tool to bite into the fastener eliminating slippage and allowing the maximum torque to be applied.   I also like to apply a very slight undercut to the bottom face of the tool tip which helps to insure that the tips of the tool are fully engaged.  If you follow all of these steps I think that you will find that the tip will lock into the screw slot quite well so long as the screw itself has the original square slot.  If the screw slot has become Veed in shape due to using an improper tip, corrosion or slippage, carefully reshaping the slot with a dremel, or a tiny sharp file can often restore the slot.  This ability to recover the slotted head shape and potentially the maximum torque for another try at removal is unique I believe to the slotted head as compared to the center drive type fasteners.    I have recut a lot of slotted screw heads and often cut the slot a bit deeper in the process.  

    In the Automotive world I believe that you have another factor that makes the slotted fastener difficult to deal with.  It seems that  corrosion of steel slotted fasteners tends to round off the sharp edges of the slot.  Add that to a bit of oil and they can be almost impossible to remove!

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Aug 8, 2018, at 9:08 AM, mfmcgovern@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I work in automotive and have dealt with my share of seized fasteners.  Which bolt head type is "best" is an age-old question and one that does not really seem to have a definitive, scientific answer.  Here's a pretty good run-down of most of the available options:  https://www.wiha.com/en/screw-head-types/


In reality, the four head types that you can find relatively easy in 316 Stainless Steel in the sizes we would use on an Amel are:

1. Slot Head 
2.  Phillips Head
3.  Socket Head/Allen Head (internal hex)
< div>4.  Hex Head (external hex)

In my experience, Slot Head is by far the worst choice in terms of both the amount of torque you can apply and in keeping the tool on the fastener head.  However, it is available in the most sizes/lengths and is usually the cheapest option.  

Phillips Head will let you apply the most torque to the screw head.  However, you have to be able to apply a good bit of axial force (pushing the screwdriver down into the screw head) in order to avoid the screwdriver slipping out.  

Socket Head/Allen Head/Hex Head is a good choice when you have limited access to the screw head and you can't apply a lot of axial force.  However, you cannot apply a lot of torque to the head before stripping it out.  Socket Head/Allen head are "prettier" and come in a flat head version which can sit flush in countersunk holes like the ones in the SM stanchion bases that we are talking about in this thread.

www.mcmaster.com and www.grainger.com are two good places to find 316 Stainless Steel fasteners in the USA.  


Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] paying Amel for parts order

greatketch@...
 

Ryan,

We have had the same problem  In our experience the issue is with your bank's security program.  They see a local charge in France, especially one run manually without the card present, and decline it because they know you are in Boston (they know all kinds of stuff...)

Our standard routine with Bank of America is to give Maud the credit card information, she runs it, it is declined.  We call BofA and say "please approve the charge in France".  We tell Maud to run it again.  It is approved.  She gets this all the time, and is very patient with the process.

You can short circuit this if your bank is on the ball by calling ahead and telling them you will be making a charge of "x" dollars in France, and to please pre-approve it.  Sometimes this has worked for us--sometimes not.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Running Rigging

greatketch@...
 

On any lines working with an Andersen Line Tender you'll need to follow Andersen's insistance


and use 12 mm line. This is the mainsail outhaul line, and the mainsail traveler line.

The story is that the 10 mm line used by Amel was bigger and better than everybody else's 10 mm line.  But whatever the cause, in my experience, if you go to your local chandlery and buy 10 mm line as specified in the Amel documents, it WILL slip under load.
 
I installed one of these Andersen Line Tenders as part of my mizzen traveler upgrade.  (one of the best things I did to the boat!) https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/mizzen-traveler/ When I first installed it I used 10mm lines because that is what Amel documents specified for the identical application on the main traveller...  they didn't work. When I actually measured the main traveller lines, they were 12 mm OD not 10mm.  Swapping up to 12 mm line solved the issue.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Thanks, Miles.  I hope you’re having a good Summer.

  I think I have a good picture of the manual furling rig in my mind.  Makes sense to use the same line as the one to drop the main sail.  Do you know if it’s 10 mm? 12mm?

The lists of SM rigging already have lines listed for the outhaul and traveler and jib car lines.  Yes, same material, but I guess 12mm may be what’s recommended now instead of 10mm.  So the “Tack Line” is listed as something different.  Still trying to guess what they’re talking about.

I’ll post pics of everything when the upfit is complete.

Hi to Carol.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] paying Amel for parts order

Mark Erdos
 

Ryan and Kelly,

 

We have had no issues paying Amel by VISA card (from a USA bank).

 

If your bank can’t wire money, time to get a better bank. Wire transfers are common place in the world of cruising.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 10:20 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] paying Amel for parts order

 

 

Hi all,

 

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

 

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

 

How do you folks pay for your orders?

 

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly

SM 233 Iteration

Boston, MA, USA

 

 

 


Re: paying Amel for parts order

Craig Briggs
 

Hi again , with an after thought.  If your bank can't send international wire transfers that seems it may not be a "main line" bank, like Chase etc. Perhaps that's the issue.
Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

How do you folks pay for your orders?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




Re: paying Amel for parts order

Craig Briggs
 

Hi guys,
We've always use US bank Visa card - always worked fine.
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] paying Amel for parts order

James Alton
 

Ryan and Kelly,

   I have had this problem on multiple occasions even when I alerted my CC company that a particular charge was to be made.  What I have resorted to that has  worked 100% of the time so far is to call my CC company on one phone, call the vendor on the other and have the CC company follow and approve the transaction.  Nothing else I have tried seems to work.  Once you have a charge on record with Amel with your CC company, your CC company may allow future purchases without going through this ordeal so remember which card you used.

Best of luck,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Aug 8, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi all,

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

How do you folks pay for your orders?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA






Re: paying Amel for parts order

mfmcgovern@...
 

Ryan,

That is odd.  I've used my Fidelity Visa card to pay for orders in both Amel France and Amel Martinique in the past without any issues. 

That said, I might have a relatively easy solution for you.  In trying to send a deposit overseas for a dinghy that's made in New Zealand I discovered this site:  https://transferwise.com/.  It's easy to setup an account and will give you the ability to make overseas transfers in a few days directly from your US bank account.  The exchange rates are excellent compared to any bank I've seen and the fees are cheaper too.  It has some other neat features as well that may or may not interest you.  All in all, it took me 3 days get it set up, have my account verified, and get a wire transfer sent to New Zealand.  It will take only 1 day for the next payment to get there.  

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

How do you folks pay for your orders?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




paying Amel for parts order

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I recently placed my first parts order with Amel, and I'm having trouble paying them.  I've given them two different US-based credit cards from different issuers and they say both were declined.  Neither card issuer has any record of an attempted charge, so they can't tell me why they were declined, and this implies the problem is on Amel's end.

Amel also gave me wire instructions, but my bank is not able to send wires.

How do you folks pay for your orders?

Thanks,
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

mfmcgovern@...
 

Kent,

I can make them for $14 out of 6061 Aluminum.  I would like to make at least 20 at that price if at all possible.  We can also have them clear anodized for an additional ~$4 each.  I have not yet received an exact quote from my anodizer but from experience it will be around that price.  Clear anodizing will impart more of a matte/satin finish to the aluminum.  Lead time to make them is 2 weeks.  Add a week if we need to anodize them.  If we do end making some of these, I will make an additional ~10 extra while we are set up so that we will have some in-stock and ready to go if anyone ever needs a few more down the road.  Attached is a rendering of the model.  

My feelings will NOT be hurt if you guys prefer the cheaper 3D printed ABS option!

Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

karkauai
 

I have no idea what the cost would be, Philipp.  When I get them off if Kristy, I’ll try to find out what it would cost to ship them.  They would be bulky, but not very heavy.  I’ll take some pics and measurements when I get back on Kristy in 2 weeks.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

I'm interested but it depends on the dimensions of the package. Because I think, that there are limitations on the cargo transport to La Rochelle Pallice if they have to transport it by post from Brest or Amsterdam .
Do you have an idea about the amount of the costs to transport it to France or Switzerland?

I need your inox tubes or better if it is not to transport, maybe you could send me the dimensions of the inox tubes, that I can let change them by an inox yard in LR.


Many thanks for your perfect service!

Fair winds,

Philipp


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Drawer/cupboard pulls

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent,
You can kick my order up to 10 if it helps get to the minimum of 100 total.
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Running Rigging

karkauai
 

Thanks, Miles.  I hope you’re having a good Summer.

  I think I have a good picture of the manual furling rig in my mind.  Makes sense to use the same line as the one to drop the main sail.  Do you know if it’s 10 mm? 12mm?

The lists of SM rigging already have lines listed for the outhaul and traveler and jib car lines.  Yes, same material, but I guess 12mm may be what’s recommended now instead of 10mm.  So the “Tack Line” is listed as something different.  Still trying to guess what they’re talking about.

I’ll post pics of everything when the upfit is complete.

Hi to Carol.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy



Hello Kent,

 

The Tack Rope material is what Amel uses for the outhaul on the boom and for the main sheet car traveler.  I think that if you measure them you will find this to be the case.

 

For manually furling the genoa,  my boat came with a black and white line that is also used to attach to the short main halyard for lowering the main sail and to furl the genoa.  For the Genoa, the ends are tied together to make a big loop, then led around the furler to two blocks at the toe rail and back to either the power or small winch and then to a block held by a long bungee to the back big deck cleat.  

 

I hope that this is clear enough to make sense.  If you see it on another boat, it will be clear.

 

I will be interested to hear how your work on the boat turns out.

Regards,

Miles

s/y Ladybug, sm216, Newport, RI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

karkauai
 

Agreed, Danny.
I have a full cockpit enclosure, but it’s getting very tired after 10 years.  I can’t stand up in the cockpit without bending over a bit.

I’m removing the old cockpit cover and installing a new frame that attaches to the dodger and both mizzen shrouds on each side to cover the whole cockpit.  It will have a full cockpit enclosure, and I’ll be able to stand up and see all around with the “Bimini” up all the time and with the full enclosure in place.  I’m adding two more flexible solar panels on this as well.  It will have two large “windows” that allow viewing the sails, with covers to keep the sun out when not in use.  I’m also making a full sunscreen enclosure that will help with insects as well.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them.

In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear.  When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable.

And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in.

While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiable. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago)

I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives.

And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom

Kind Regards

Danny



Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Adam,
On our '92 SN the orange boot stripe was gelcoat. We simply sanded it before applying the new higher awlgrip paint boot stripe.
 Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <coastalseas@...> wrote :

Hi 

I too am looking raising the waterline aft and leveling it out to existing level at the bow, due to new weight distribution of SS solar arch, solar panels as added in 2015 and of course the contents of aft locker. The bow to mid ships id fine but the aft section requires constant scrubbing.

The challenge is removing this old boot strip before setting up the new waterline trim.

My question for the group is in about the original 2001 build orange boot stripe, is it a vinyl sticker or is it painted on.      

If it is a sticker, heat guns and scraping and / or decal eraser disks will be required. 

If it is painted on then fine grit sanding will be required.  

Any previous experiences or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Adam 
s/v Lady Annabelle
AMEL SM 2000 #339
Sydney Australia



Re: re caulking of stanchion base

mfmcgovern@...
 

I work in automotive and have dealt with my share of seized fasteners.  Which bolt head type is "best" is an age-old question and one that does not really seem to have a definitive, scientific answer.  Here's a pretty good run-down of most of the available options:  https://www.wiha.com/en/screw-head-types/

In reality, the four head types that you can find relatively easy in 316 Stainless Steel in the sizes we would use on an Amel are:

1. Slot Head 
2.  Phillips Head
3.  Socket Head/Allen Head (internal hex)
4.  Hex Head (external hex)

In my experience, Slot Head is by far the worst choice in terms of both the amount of torque you can apply and in keeping the tool on the fastener head.  However, it is available in the most sizes/lengths and is usually the cheapest option.  

Phillips Head will let you apply the most torque to the screw head.  However, you have to be able to apply a good bit of axial force (pushing the screwdriver down into the screw head) in order to avoid the screwdriver slipping out.  

Socket Head/Allen Head/Hex Head is a good choice when you have limited access to the screw head and you can't apply a lot of axial force.  However, you cannot apply a lot of torque to the head before stripping it out.  Socket Head/Allen head are "prettier" and come in a flat head version which can sit flush in countersunk holes like the ones in the SM stanchion bases that we are talking about in this thread.

www.mcmaster.com and www.grainger.com are two good places to find 316 Stainless Steel fasteners in the USA.  


Mark McGovern
SM 440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Excellent !!!
That confirm what I/we thought!

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/7/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on galley refrigerator
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 7:58 AM


 









Out of curiosity I asked Veco (Annapolis
Frigoboat/Climma distributor) about their warning to use
only sea water for cooling, not tank water.  My questions
are below with their answers in red. "Dear Veco,I see in your Installation and
Instruction Manual that you have a warning in Chapter 3 that
the W35F and W50F Refrigeration Systems are designed to
operate with sea water cooling only, not water from water
tanks, etc. because serious health risks can
occur. Frigoboat systems are designed
for use with sea water only. There are no food-grade
materials used, and if a condenser rupture were to occur
there would be contamination of the drinking water from
refrigerant and oil if the system was installed using the
boat's water tanks.

I'm guessing the concern
with using recirculating cooling water from a fresh water
tank would be if the tank water were to heat up a lot or
become insufficient, the refrigeration may not provide
adequate cooling and food might spoil causing illness (and
possible legal ramifications for your company). Absolutely. Also, we would rather not have
the reputation of Frigoboat slighted by operators
broadcasting of poor performance when in fact their systems
have been installed and operated in a non-standard
way.

Owner error might also allow the
tank to become empty, although the system seemingly would
respond as it would were a sea water feed to become clogged
and no equipment damage would result. There is a temperature sensor on the
condensing coil that will stop the compressor if it is seen
that there is an inadequate supply of cooling
water.

Can you confirm that the warning
is indeed one to prevent owner error or is there actually an
engineering issue with using fresh water from a tank?  That
certainly seems not the issue as the system, I'm sure,
will work fine in fresh water. By
using recirculating water in a tank, you are adding several
more steps of heat exchange. By using sea water we are
always using a fresh source of water at a stable
temperature. Heat travels from a higher temperature object
to a lower temperature one, so for heat exchange to take
place, there must be a difference in temperature between the
two mediums, and the greater the difference, the more the
heat exchange. The water recirculated back to the tank will
be at a higher temperature than the water in the tank and so
it will heat the water in the tank. The water in the tank
has to be considerably warmer than its surroundings before
it can dispense some of that heat, so the water in the tank
will be warmer than the surroundings and the sea water. As
the water in the tank gets warmer/hotter, there is less heat
exchange, less efficiency, and more power is consumed due to
elevated head pressures in the compressor. The Frigoboat W35
and W50 systems are designed to operate efficiently and
safely with sea water at the maximum expected
temperature. Best
regards,Craig
Briggss/v
Sangaris
I didn't word my
last point very well - I meant to point out that the system
doesn't care if it gets sea water or fresh water from,
say, a river or in a lake. It's just a matter of them
not wanting owners using tank water to avoid possible
complaints, claims or the remote chance of drinking water
contamination.
Craig

---In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <uster@...> wrote
:

Good morning Paul,



If I may point out regarding the “water cooled” units.


“Chapter 3” of the Installation and Instruction
Manual

http://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/images/PDF/Refer/Frigoboat_Manual_Rev_37.pdf

it says:

NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work
with sea water only. They are not designed to use water from
other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant
pumped through secondary heat exchangers. Serious health
risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of
liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being
pumped directly into the system and then expelled back
overboard.

I assume this is some lawyer statement to prevent any type
of potential lawsuit should the system leak into the fresh
water tank.

Personally, I would not have any issue using the fresh water
tank, but wanted to point out the information.



Sincerely, Alexandre.







--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 8/6/18, osterberg.paul.l@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for suggestions on
galley refrigerator

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Monday, August 6, 2018, 8:00 AM





 



















Mark! Did you consider to have a water cooled

compressor? We have changed the cooler and compressor in
the

fridge box. To a water cooled, I also build a freezer
where

the dishwasher was, also water cooled. Both compressors
are

cooled by circulating fresh water from the drinking water

tank. Limited corrosion no growth of barnacles. No
problem

to use when on the hard, and very energy efficient. No
noice

from any fan. Took the water from the manual pump outlet
to

the compressors.



I have thought of doing something about the fridge
cabinet

as it get cool, but work most of the time and make noice

even after I changed the fan. One thought was a drawer

fridge, terribly expensive and does not match, or change

compressor and evaporator. I think I know the answer now.



Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, I have always looked at those dual wheels, fully exposed to the sun,wind ,rain and spray and shook my head. They are welcome to it , I have said a dozen times that I am surprised more helms are not located forward as the Amels. But they do look sporty ! Just not practical.
Say Hey to Yvonne,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 7:01 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

 
Hi Kent,
I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them.
In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear.  When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable.
And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in.
While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiab le. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago)
I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives.
And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom
Kind Regards
Danny
On 08 August 2018 at 04:19 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
 
Hi Philipp,

I am going to replace my SM 2K cockpit enclosure with a Bimini type top.  If you want my framework, I will ship it to you at your cost.

Kent
Kristy
SM 243
Cu rrently St Michaels MD USA

On Jul 28, 2018, at 11:01 AM, philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
 
Hi dear Super Maramu Experts,

I think about to change my old installation of the cockpit cover on my SM#124 to the installation on the SM2K.
For this action I asked AMEL in La Rochelle and NV Equipment as well, but unfortunately I didn't get an answer that they could help.
Does anybody has a map with the dimensions of the inox tubes and also where to fix them on the cockpit triangle.

Many thanks for all support!

Philipp
SM#124, Félicie, Bâle

 
 
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Danny,

 

I had to laugh about you never wearing wet weather gear. We have a similar enclosure setup on Cream Puff. I’m not sure I even know where the wet weather gear is anymore. While we don’t have near as many miles as you, we love the setup and agree the fully enclosed cockpit is invaluable.

 

We also made matching panels with insect screens. They can be easily substituted for the clear panels of the enclosure. These have proven wonderful for two reasons. First, it obviously keeps the bugs out on anchor. Second, they provide shade while letting air circulate the cockpit.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 4:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] changing cockpit cover installation from old Super Maramu to SM2K

 

 

Hi Kent,

I'm not sure what you mean by a bimini type top but I offer this anyway. I think the most valuable addition to Ocean Pearl was the full cockpit enclosure, from the windscreen to behind the mizzen. Obviously we used the existing Amel bars and covers and attached to them.

In 47000 miles (I clicked over 47000 today) sailing we have never donned wet weather gear.  When sailing down wind in moderate to strong winds and rain, without the rear curtains life would be miserable.

And you most certainly need full front and side protection cause that is where the big sea splashes come in.

While the top from the Amel frame to our "behind mizzen" bar is zip removable we seldom remove it. As are all the side and back curtains The side and rear curtains roll up and down easily. This cover system turns the cockpit into an all weather extension of the cabin. I decided when we were looking for a boat a full cockpit enclosure was non negotiable. I was not going to ask Yvonne to bake to the sun and freeze in the rain for the two years voyage we had planned.(10 years ago)

I'll say again, that cockpit enclosure is invaluable for the increased pleasure it gives.

And those guys and gals in their bimini "unprotected" twin wheel rear helm stations that look so flash in the marinas are wrapped up in wet weather gear and getting wet top and bottom

Kind Regards

Danny

On 08 August 2018 at 04:19 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

 

 

Hi Philipp,

 

I am going to replace my SM 2K cockpit enclosure with a Bimini type top.  If you want my framework, I will ship it to you at your cost.

Kent

Kristy

SM 243

Currently St Michaels MD USA


On Jul 28, 2018, at 11:01 AM, philipp.sollberger@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi dear Super Maramu Experts,

 

I think about to change my old installation of the cockpit cover on my SM#124 to the installation on the SM2K.

For this action I asked AMEL in La Rochelle and NV Equipment as well, but unfortunately I didn't get an answer that they could help.

Does anybody has a map with the dimensions of the inox tubes and also where to fix them on the cockpit triangle.

 

Many thanks for all support!

 

Philipp

SM#124, Félicie, Bâle

 

 

 


 


 

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