Date   

Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Mark Isaac
 

Thanks to the person who linked my post to the appropriate conversation.

Yes, they are marine deep cycle flooded lead acid batteries.

Bill, thanks for what I am taking home from this: no need to look further for problems with the cells or system and keep the terminals tight.

Mark Isaac
SM391, Lulu
South Freeport, Maine


Re: Generator exhaust

Craig Briggs
 

MIchael,
Are you installing a name brand generator (Onan, NorthernLights,etc) or are you putting together components yourself? If name brand the installation instructions should certainly cover this clearly and it depends on the genset size. 
For example, the older NL 6/4.8kw (which has a Kubota 10hp engine) calls for 40mm throughout and the exhaust elbow is 40mm (the new 6/5kw model has 38mm). Their 12/10kw with a 20hp engine has a 51mm elbow. In general, though, you don't want to introduce a reducer.  If the exhaust elbow is 50mm, then carry that through, unless the manufacturer specifically calls for the reducer (to increase exhaust pressure - unlikely).
Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mfw642000@...> wrote :

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New ultrasonic DST sesnor from AIRMAR

SV Perigee
 

Hi Bill,

[sorry, the earlier message 'got away' from me before I could properly complete.]

When our Sonic Speed failed, we regained Boat Speed by replacing the preexisting depth-only sensor in the underfloor compartment outside the forward head with a paddle-wheel DST800.  The DST800 uses a 51mm (2") form factor, and was a drop-in replacement.

The UDST800 is also a 51mm (2") fitting.  Noting however that the UDST800 processor requires a separate power supply, and the specs sheet says that this is 12VDC.

Cheers,

David
Perigee, SM#396
Spanish Water, Curaçao


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New ultrasonic DST sesnor from AIRMAR

 

Alan,

Interesting. I cannot remember...is the SM Amel-installed B&G Depth Transducer 2" as this combo is also 2"? If so, this is an excellent option when the sonic speed sensors fail.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 7:50 AM dbv_au@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor


http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=208


UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor


UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor



Re: Ebersprecher. Heater

Arno Luijten
 

If I were you I would select a Webasto diesel heater. They are virually the same devices as the Eberspächer but from what I recall the electronics on the Webasto are at bit better. Also they have a more spread dealer network. On our boat Amel installed a Webasto Air-Top 5.5 kW heater. These things are a pig to install after the boat has been build as you need a lot of cables, hoses and (isolated) ducts. So careful planning is required. I would ask a fellow Super Maramu with a factory installed heater about the exact routing of the ducts to avoid inventing the wheel twice.

Regarfs,

Arno
Luna, A54-121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Alan,
did you have to modify 175A Leece Neville engine alternator (I suppose original one) coupled to the Next Step II regulator ?
Many Thanks
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428


Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

greatketch@...
 

Mark,

Sorry to hear about your excitement, but glad the only damage was to the boat.

I assume you have standard flooded lead acid batteries--if not--then things are strange... 

Just from normal charging, hydrogen is being generated by the batteries.  It would be a bad assumption that a passive vent is sufficient to ALWAYS keep the battery box hydrogen concentration below the level that will ignite--given a spark. The problem is that hydrogen has such a very low flammable limit in air, between 2% and 6% depending on how you define it.  Certainly local concentrations of H2 in the box could get that high in normal operation.

And a loose battery cable certainly can create the needed spark...  

Moral of the story...  battery cables need to be kept tight, and any kind of equipment added inside the battery box need to be ignition protected--or better yet mounted outside the box.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA







New ultrasonic DST sesnor from AIRMAR

SV Perigee
 

UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor


http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=208


UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor


UDST800 Ultrasonic Smart Sensor



Clothes dryer on a A54

Arno Luijten
 

For those who are interested.

I just removed the dryer from the forward head. This was because it tripped the RCD breaker because of some grounding fault.

Removing is quite the puzzle. The shelf that sits on top is screwed down with two screws in the back and is velcro-ed to the top of the dryer. However loosening this does not mean you will be able to remove it. The nice piece of wood that decorates the shelve prevents it from getting out. By feeling the vinyl at the back you can spot two screws that are underneath the vinyl. These hold the wood. By pushing a screwdriver (Pozidriv) though the vinyl you can unscrew them. Then the wood is only retained by some double sided sticky tape.
Now also remove the small shelf in the back. It's held in place with two (visible) screws.

Next you need to go under the sink. There is a access hatch held in place with two screws. You can just move this to the back to gain access. Now you will see (when you dive deep enough) the airhose and the two knurled knobs that hold the thing in place.
Remove the knobs and the hoseclamp. Now put a thick blanket over the sink to protect it. You can just tilt the dryer foreward to have it lean on the sink. It helps to remove the tap first.
Now you can access the innards from the back and top by removing a lot of screws. Do not remove the back panel itself, only the smaller cover that sits on the back cover.

You cannot remove the dryer from the heads altogether unless you take it completely apart. Both the hatch and the door opening are too narrow. Amel actually cut the lower back corner off the dryer-housing to make it fit the space available. They also re-routed the hose from the back to the bottom. Quite the creativity there.

I found the heating element to be busted, it had a short circuit between the poles and the housing.
I think the dryer brand Minea is no longer sold but it is also sold as "White Knight" model C39AW. This is still for sale in the UK. On Ebay you can find loads of heating element replacements for this thing. I'm going to order two of them just to be sure the first one does not break down anymore.

Regards,

Arno

Luna A54-121


Re: Generator exhaust

greatketch@...
 

Michael,

I can not give you an authoritative insight into Amel's reasons for reducing the size of the hose, but...

The total volume of the exhaust hose is a design criteria for the water lock.  The box needs to be able to catch and hold at least one hose full of water without overflowing back to the engine.  If the hose run is long, then they might have needed to neck it down a bit to keep the volumes matched.

If the horsepower of your new genset is equal or less than the original installation, then I would match the exhaust system as originally designed.  If your new genset engine has higher horsepower rating than the original, I'd have an expert on engine installations look it over to be sure the exhaust system is sufficient.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mfw642000@...> wrote :

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sunbrella

Alan Leslie
 

In our part of the world, ordinary domestic bleach now contains not only sodium hypochlorite but also sodium hydroxide...this is the same formulation as another product called Exit Mould that sells for something like 5 times the price of "bleach"
This product has to be the ultimate mildew killer...we use it for cleaning the cabin top, acrylic fabrics, the "blue floors"....wonderful...
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Mike Johnson
 

Hi,

Agree with Bill’s comments. We have anchored out in steady 30 kts plus with gusts over 40 kts without difficulty.

Our only addition is a long nylon snubber of 10 to 15 m to ensure maximum benefit of chain on the sea bed.

Mike & Peta
Solitude
SM 2K 461

On 11 Aug 2018, at 22:32, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I anchored in 30 meters in Bora Bora at 3:1 scope. We were there for several days with winds in the high 30s-low 40s.

The scope required to safely anchor can decrease as the depth increases. This is the effect of the catenary - the weight of the chain makes the 3:1 scope pull pretty much parallel to the bottom.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 3:49 PM Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.  


Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sunbrella

Mike Johnson
 

Hi,

We use a common UK domestic called Dettol on all our interior surfaces around the galley and heads.   

We also use at home and have never had a mildew problem.

Mike & Peta
Solitude
SM 2K 461

On 12 Aug 2018, at 08:25, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We use the 303 products as well having made our first application to the exterior (only) when the bimini was 2 years old.  Note that they make a multi cleaner as well as a fabric guard (keep the Fabric Guard off any clear vinyl or wipe it off immediately).  


Regarding the prevention of mildew we regulary and  thoroughly rinse BOTH the exterior and interior with fresh water on a regular basis.  We don't scrub it, just use a moderate fresh water spray.  Frequently it is the organic material in salt water spray that supports mildew growth while the salt keeps things moist.   Looks kind of unusual spraying the inside of bimini (and enclosure) but this gets salty as well. If you have a canvas dash/wheel cover and helm seat cover it makes this process a bit easier.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429


Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Alan Leslie
 

Well that will be the case because if you have a bank of series connected batteries each battery will discharge into the other and eventually they will equalise and all will read the same.
You probably have 6 parallel banks of 2 x 12v batteries in series ? (standard Amel setup)
However if you charge the whole system and then immediately disconnect each battery you may well find that they are not all the same.
We have 6v batteries..4 in series and three of those banks in parallel.
We had serious issues with battery failures 12 months after the new batteries were installed, probably caused by the slightly different internal resistance of each battery in the series chain. Some batteries were being more charged than others.
We replaced the failing batteries (under warranty..hard to believe, but it happened) and installed battery balancers on each bank....they make sure that each battery in the series chain receives the same voltage 
Since then ... 2 years..we have had no battery failures and our 660Ah house bank is still 100% capacity.
We monitor and log voltages vs capacity on the Link 10 compared to actual discharge...we never go below 80% and so far all the measured parameters are consistent.  
BTW our batteries are AGM .. so limited gassing issues and almost no possibility of explosions !
We have 
600W of solar with a Victron MPPT controller
A D400 wind generator that seems useful in gale force winds, but o'wise...PITW
100A Victron charger
30A Pro Mariner charger
175A Leece Neville engine alternator coupled to a Next Step II regulator
AND they are all set for the same (batt Manfr rec.) voltages, absorption times etc

And so far ...it all seems to work !

Hope that helps

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu


Ebersprecher. Heater

Arthur Sundqvist
 

We want to install an heater in our SM2000. Does anyone have done this? Is the installation documented in some way or form. Please you who know could you share you insights.
Fair winds

Arthur Sundqvist
Vista , SM435



Skickat från min iPhone


Re: Sunbrella

rossirossix4
 

We use the 303 products as well having made our first application to the exterior (only) when the bimini was 2 years old.  Note that they make a multi cleaner as well as a fabric guard (keep the Fabric Guard off any clear vinyl or wipe it off immediately).  

Regarding the prevention of mildew we regulary and  thoroughly rinse BOTH the exterior and interior with fresh water on a regular basis.  We don't scrub it, just use a moderate fresh water spray.  Frequently it is the organic material in salt water spray that supports mildew growth while the salt keeps things moist.   Looks kind of unusual spraying the inside of bimini (and enclosure) but this gets salty as well. If you have a canvas dash/wheel cover and helm seat cover it makes this process a bit easier.

Bob, KAIMI SM 429


Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

rossirossix4
 

We have that Sola battery checker and it is very good.  I am curious though.  There have been suggestions that each battery needs to be disconnected when checking but it seems that if no charging or load from the bank is happening that each individual battery could be checked without disconnecting.  When I do this it gives me the same reading as it does when disconnected.  Does anyone have insight into this?

Bob and Suzanne,  KAIMI SM 429
Monaco


Generator exhaust

michael winand
 

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Kent

In French Polynesia its often hard to find anywhere to anchor less than 30m deep. We have never had a problem with our 30kg WASI anchor and 100m of Aqua Maggi 4 10mm chain. 3:1 was our general rule. In other island groups anchoring can be less challenging.
The bottom can be anything from mud, sand, broken coral. The up side is that generally the wind comes constantly from the SE so as long as you're lined up into wind and have a good hold on something, you should stay there.
You really need all chain in the Pacific. Rope will chafe on coral and eventually let go. Chain will occasionally wrap itself round coral heads, which is a real PITA but it doesn't break.
We have a second anchor in the forward starboard locker but have never used it.
We have a Fortress anchor in the lazarette for a stern anchor which we have used a few times to keep the boat lined up in difficult anchorages.
The idea of putting two anchors on the same rode one behind the other doesn't get much support from the reading I've done...I've never tried it.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu


Re: South Pacific Cruising Navigation

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Kent,

We have found Navionics to be very variable in the South Pacific.
I recently installed a B&G Vulcan with Forward Scan and part of the deal was a chart card.
We have C-Map in our Furuno system and also in Maxsea, as well as GE2KAP satellite photo charts for OpenCPN.
So I opted for Navionics for the B&G and in the last 3 months I've been able to compare.
C-Map I have found to be generally pretty reliable in depicting to locations of reefs etc. Navionics nowhere near as good. In some places Navionics has been as good as C-Map.eg. in ports with marks etc, and in some remote places, but that is not the norm. In the Yasawa islands of Fiji for example Navionics would be downright dangerous. It shows reefs where there are none, doesn't show channels that are well marked and have been in use for years. yet a mile away it is perfect. When it does show reefs they are some strange star shaped representation that doesn't reflect the actual physical shape of the reef, and often puts two reefs into one blob.

One thing to be aware of in the South Pacific is that all the charts pretty much are out by around 1/4 to 1/2 mile, sometimes more...this is often stated on the paper charts, but doesn't appear on the electronic charts which are generally copies of the paper ones.  So we sometime find ourselves anchored on the beach or on a hill according to the electronic chart. 
Why are they out? Because there have been few recent surveys done and often on the paper chart you will see that the majority of the area you are sailing in was surveyed by leadline in 1876 or similar. This is because the majority of the island nations have been independent for some years now and economically they struggle, so one can understand why cartographic surveys are not high on their to do list.

Good luck with your preparations and hope to see you down here sometime.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu