Date   

Re: Grease stains under steering cables

Alan Leslie
 

we have a short bungee cord with hooks that holds the wheel attached to the big locking pin on the port side of the companionway. we always put it on when the boat is not moving. it only takes seconds to remove it.
cheers
alan
elyse sm437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Kent,

Sometimes you can unwind yourself from a wrapped bommie if you know which way the boat has swung around it.
Often you need someone to go in the water to see where the chain is and provide directions for the helm to unwind it.
Worst case we ever had in Fiji we had to get a diving team...our chain was wrapped tight around two bommies and it took some time to get it off.
Every situation is different.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Grease stains under steering cables

greatketch@...
 

Two thoughts...

First, a little grease there is normal.  In fact if it is dry, you should add some.

Second, I always tie off the wheel when not actually driving the boat. The steering system is robust and long lived, but as you might see from recent posts on here it is NOT forever. If I let the rudder swing back and forth all the time, it would put more wear and tear on the whole system than thousands of miles of sailing.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Hi all,


On my A54 #69, I opened the aft berth to inspect the steering and found some grease dripping out of the steering cables. See attached photo. You can see a bit of grease on the cable itself, but the black grease stains below are from the cable "leaking".


On the A54, we don't have an easy way to lock the steering at anchor, so sometimes the steering does turn lock to lock as the boat swings around. I was thinking about tying it off, but am a bit concerned that it would slow down a hasty exit if necessary. 


Perhaps over time, this lock to lock rotation has caused a problem and that's the source of the grease? Or is this normal and nothing to worry about?




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Generator exhaust

greatketch@...
 

Michael,

An important thing to remember is that the original set up works... when used and maintained as it should be.  

One of the key recommendations has always been to run the generator and the main drive engine every 12 to 24 hours while sailing to blow out any water than might have found its way in.

I am not comfortable making a detailed recommendation about any changes that might be needed for the new engine...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <mfw642000@...> wrote :

Thanks Bill. 
We are installing a sincro sk160  mated to a kubota d11. 
It is a little more powerful than the original onan. 
The old engine was damaged by corrosion in two cylinders.
The information from the installation people told me that they would not be happy with the way the syphon loop vented to the exhaust system and being in the horizontal plane. Could cause issues. The reduction in size through the water lock would have caused back pressure? 
I think that other owners may have been in the same position.
I have a few spare parts from the Onan. 

On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 at 0:37, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Michael,


I can not give you an authoritative insight into Amel's reasons for reducing the size of the hose, but...

The total volume of the exhaust hose is a design criteria for the water lock.  The box needs to be able to catch and hold at least one hose full of water without overflowing back to the engine.  If the hose run is long, then they might have needed to neck it down a bit to keep the volumes matched.

If the horsepower of your new genset is equal or less than the original installation, then I would match the exhaust system as originally designed.  If your new genset engine has higher horsepower rating than the original, I'd have an expert on engine installations look it over to be sure the exhaust system is sufficient.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mfw642000@...> wrote :

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.
The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

 

Eric,

That's a first! What was it? And, do you have any idea how it got past the first prefilter?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 1:45 PM 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

I found the problem. It was none of the above,

Thanks

For the help.

There was something lodger between the 2 pre filters.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 8:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

 

 

Eric,

 

I have seen growth, barnacles and mussels pack the line from the sea chest to the saltwater manifold. mussels especially like this area because of the waterflow caused by the AC pump when in a marina. I have also seen blades on the metal impeller of the Calpeda pump break off. I have also seen a AC pump with a suction-side leak caused by a mechanical seal failure. Any/all of these are possible issues which can cause lack of flow. I am sure there may be other causes.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 6:01 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

My problem is not enough pressure. However I found the specs on the Calpeda pump, which I changed to an Iwaki pump and the specs are very similar. I have changed the membranes and the pre filters.

I will get to the bottom of this problem. Thanks for your comments.

Best,

Eric




On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 06:33 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

No, all I know is what I gave you. 

 

I don't know how you could exceed max pressure if you stay at, or under liters/hour.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018, 17:07 eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

HI Bill,

Do you know the the maximum output pressure?

Thanks

Eric




On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 05:22 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Eric,

 

"The specifications of the low pressure pump are : 300W 900l/h. Best regards Secretary Dessalator Rosyne Castino"

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 3:58 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Does anyone have the model number of the 160 lph watermaker lift pump for the watermaker.

Is there a distributor in the USA?

Also what are the specs of the pump?

Lph , head, pressure?

Fair winds,

Eric

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Bill,

I found the problem. It was none of the above,

Thanks

For the help.

There was something lodger between the 2 pre filters.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 8:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

 

 

Eric,

 

I have seen growth, barnacles and mussels pack the line from the sea chest to the saltwater manifold. mussels especially like this area because of the waterflow caused by the AC pump when in a marina. I have also seen blades on the metal impeller of the Calpeda pump break off. I have also seen a AC pump with a suction-side leak caused by a mechanical seal failure. Any/all of these are possible issues which can cause lack of flow. I am sure there may be other causes.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 6:01 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

My problem is not enough pressure. However I found the specs on the Calpeda pump, which I changed to an Iwaki pump and the specs are very similar. I have changed the membranes and the pre filters.

I will get to the bottom of this problem. Thanks for your comments.

Best,

Eric




On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 06:33 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

No, all I know is what I gave you. 

 

I don't know how you could exceed max pressure if you stay at, or under liters/hour.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018, 17:07 eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

HI Bill,

Do you know the the maximum output pressure?

Thanks

Eric




On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 05:22 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Eric,

 

"The specifications of the low pressure pump are : 300W 900l/h. Best regards Secretary Dessalator Rosyne Castino"

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 3:58 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Does anyone have the model number of the 160 lph watermaker lift pump for the watermaker.

Is there a distributor in the USA?

Also what are the specs of the pump?

Lph , head, pressure?

Fair winds,

Eric

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

dbv_au@...
 

re Danny's prior comment: "... tandem anchoring. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor."

You might try a longer length of floating line, such that the outer end is attached to the secondary anchor, with the inner end attached to the <anchor chain> inboard of the primary anchor, at a point between the shank of the primary and the windlass gypsy.  This enables the line to be more readily accessible than if it is on the anchor when resting on it's roller.  I saw this arrangement on SV Samantha, earlier this year in St Maarten; Rudi swears by this set-up for ease of use, although his set-up used 1" line between the primary and secondary anchors.  I would prefer chain, for chafe protection.

I have also been wondering if a tripping line might also be beneficial for the outer/secondary anchor.  More complexity I know, but if the secondary (outer) anchor really digs in, would this make it more difficult if not impossible to free the inner (primary) anchor?  With just a single anchor well set, especially in mud, but also in sand, we sometimes have to be very gentle to ease the anchor out, else risk damage to the windlass.  I imagine that this would become worse with an additional outboard anchor well set.

I am interested in others' experience and set-ups for the use of anchors in tandem.

David
Perigee, SM#396
Curaçao


Grease stains under steering cables

cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
 

Hi all,


On my A54 #69, I opened the aft berth to inspect the steering and found some grease dripping out of the steering cables. See attached photo. You can see a bit of grease on the cable itself, but the black grease stains below are from the cable "leaking".


On the A54, we don't have an easy way to lock the steering at anchor, so sometimes the steering does turn lock to lock as the boat swings around. I was thinking about tying it off, but am a bit concerned that it would slow down a hasty exit if necessary. 


Perhaps over time, this lock to lock rotation has caused a problem and that's the source of the grease? Or is this normal and nothing to worry about?




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

karkauai
 

I’ve been reading about “bommies” Danny, it must be a royal pain if you get wrapped around one.  Can you generally see how it’s wrapped to aid in getting it free...or is it just a matter of trial and error?

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 13, 2018, at 12:13 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 10:08
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi again Kent, just be sure the amount of rope you pay out is say no more than 2/3 of the water depth so when there is no wind and the anchor chain is hanging straight down the rope is well clear of the bottom. You also have to be ware of coral heads or bommies. They come straight up from the bottom and to get rope wrapped around one of those would be fatal. If there are bommies present the rope you pay out must be shorter than the depth of the nearest bommie. In some atolls the coral sand is very soft and very bad holding, In that situation you are likely to be in relatively shallow water. That is where you would need your two anchor system

Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.


  I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.  


Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


 

 

 


 


 

 

 


 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

karkauai
 

Great, I’ll use the same setup.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Aug 13, 2018, at 12:12 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 13:36
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi Kent.

I've had the rope/ chain set up all the time we've owned her and it stows away perfectly.  We have 100m of each if my memory serves me.

Kind Regards

Danny



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Giovanni TESTA
 

Yes Alan, this is the primary reson I installed AGM after I had some gas problems sailing from NZ to Fiji, very dangerous!
With AGM now I m more confident, even if I always check their temperature.
Cheers
Gianni
EUTIKIA SM 428

Il 13/08/2018 11:28, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] ha scritto:
 

Seems to me that a lot of these issues could be solved / eliminated by using sealed batteries...like AGM

If all the regs are set correctly there should be no gassing form VRLA  (AGM) batteries and this whole explosion hazard is minimized, not to mention the PITA  regular maintenance of keeping wet cell batteries topped up. 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

 

Eric,

I have seen growth, barnacles and mussels pack the line from the sea chest to the saltwater manifold. mussels especially like this area because of the waterflow caused by the AC pump when in a marina. I have also seen blades on the metal impeller of the Calpeda pump break off. I have also seen a AC pump with a suction-side leak caused by a mechanical seal failure. Any/all of these are possible issues which can cause lack of flow. I am sure there may be other causes.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 6:01 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,
My problem is not enough pressure. However I found the specs on the Calpeda pump, which I changed to an Iwaki pump and the specs are very similar. I have changed the membranes and the pre filters.
I will get to the bottom of this problem. Thanks for your comments.
Best,
Eric



On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 06:33 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

No, all I know is what I gave you. 

I don't know how you could exceed max pressure if you stay at, or under liters/hour.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 12, 2018, 17:07 eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

HI Bill,
Do you know the the maximum output pressure?
Thanks
Eric



On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 05:22 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Eric,

"The specifications of the low pressure pump are : 300W 900l/h. Best regards Secretary Dessalator Rosyne Castino"

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 3:58 PM eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have the model number of the 160 lph watermaker lift pump for the watermaker.
Is there a distributor in the USA?
Also what are the specs of the pump?
Lph , head, pressure?
Fair winds,
Eric




Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Alan Leslie
 

Seems to me that a lot of these issues could be solved / eliminated by using sealed batteries...like AGM
If all the regs are set correctly there should be no gassing form VRLA  (AGM) batteries and this whole explosion hazard is minimized, not to mention the PITA  regular maintenance of keeping wet cell batteries topped up. 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Giovanni
I have a switch that disconnects the alternator field from the Next Step regulator for the same reason.
if the batteries are full charged from shore power or solar, I don;t want to start a new charge cycle when I start the motor. My switch is an absolute disconnect, the alternator will not put out at all until I change the switch position...very useful...
Cheers
Alan
Elyse Sm437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Compartment Explosion

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Alan,
many thanks.
I installed a switch to disconnect the alternator ONLY at engine start when batteries (AGM) are full.
It works up to 1800 rpm , more/less, than the alternator starts automatically.
I sailed from Thailand to EU (3 years) no problem. It is an easy option, always reversible.
Best
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM428

Il 12/08/2018 21:22, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] ha scritto:
 

Hi Giovanni

yes, the internal regulator needs to be disconnected and the field wire led out of the back of the alternator.
There is a document in the files section on how to do it
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Bill,

The pressure from the low pressure pump.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 8:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Info- calpeda pump for 160 LPH watermaker

 

 

Eric,

 

When you say you have "not enough pressure" are you talking about the output from the high pressure pump?  Or the pressure between the feed pump and the high pressure pump?

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ebersprecher. Heater

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Arthur,

The photos are on the way.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ebersprecher. Heater

 

 

Sounds great. We are on our way home to. STOCKHOLM Sweden. We sailed from. Toulon France in the med  with SM 435 which we just bought and are now in the. Baltic 30hours from home. We will upgrade and sail south next year so to install the heater is an autumn project.

Kind regards

Arthur

Vista. SM435

Skickat från min iPhone


12 aug. 2018 kl. 20:46 skrev eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi Arthur,

I do not have the photos on board. I will send them to you in a few days.

You will also need to order a special thermostat as the espar is made to sendse the intake air. You need the one that senses the interior air as the Amel way is to use the outside air to heat the boat.

Fair winds,

eric




On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 12:03 PM, 'arthur@...' arthur@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Thank you. Eric!

I see forward to the info and pictures from you. I also think is best that s PRO installs it.

 

SM435, Vista

 

Skickat från min iPhone


12 aug. 2018 kl. 17:44 skrev eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Arthur,

I had an Espar heater installed in Kimberlite.

To date I have done everything on Kimberlite including changing the engine  mounts.

 

Years ago I purchased the pieces for the install of the heater which are unique to Amel, particularly the special exhaust with attached pipe, and the exhaust heat shield. They are no longer available. I found a fellow in England that sells the complete Espar unit and install kit on eBay. It got here in 3 days and was factory sealed and 1/2 the price here in the USA.

 

Over the years I have crawled through many cockpit lockers examined the installs from Amel and taken photos.

 

When i received the unit i took one look at the wiring harness, and the exhaust system and decide that I should have someone who is very familiar with the unit install it.

 

He installed it in a day and the install was perfect He is a certified Espar installer here on the north fork of Long Island.

 

I had previously contacted Ocean Options in Newport to install the unit and they said the Amel factory install is totally incorrect. Amel has probably installed more units than ocean options. I went with the Amel way.

 

Needless to say it is an ambitious project, and the thought of drilling a hole in the side of Kimberlite gave me pause.

I would look for a certified installer.

If you want some photos please send me your email address.

'Fair Wnds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite

 

Fair Winds,

Eric
On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 05:59 AM, 'arthur@...' arthur@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

We want to install an heater in our SM2000. Does anyone have done this? Is the installation documented in some way or form. Please you who know could you share you insights.
Fair winds

Arthur Sundqvist
Vista , SM435

Skickat från min iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shaft Brake-ATF Leak

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Drew,

I sent you a drawing of the shaft brake cylinder. You have an O ring that needs to be replaced.

It is a very simple job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 6:06 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shaft Brake-ATF Leak

 

 

+

 

 

Recently noticed Automatic Transmission Fluid under and on the aft end of the shaft brake after motoring.  The fluid seems to be coming from the around the adjustment bolt on the brake.  I've tightened the 4 hex bolts on the aft end-cap of the brake cylinder, but it still leaks.  The fluid collects on the support rail that holds the brake.  The transmission filter cover, seal with the engine, etc.are dry.  I recently cleaned the ATF heat exchanger and the transmission runs "cool".

It looks like there are seals in the brake cylinder.  I've not opened it.

Has anyone had this problem?  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Drew Gaffney
SV Revelation SM390
Lying Marine Sifredi, Carloforte, Sardinia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 10:08
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi again Kent, just be sure the amount of rope you pay out is say no more than 2/3 of the water depth so when there is no wind and the anchor chain is hanging straight down the rope is well clear of the bottom. You also have to be ware of coral heads or bommies. They come straight up from the bottom and to get rope wrapped around one of those would be fatal. If there are bommies present the rope you pay out must be shorter than the depth of the nearest bommie. In some atolls the coral sand is very soft and very bad holding, In that situation you are likely to be in relatively shallow water. That is where you would need your two anchor system

Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.


  I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.  


Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


 

 

 


 


 

 

 


 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 13:36
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi Kent.

I've had the rope/ chain set up all the time we've owned her and it stows away perfectly.  We have 100m of each if my memory serves me.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 10:25 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Oh, misunderstanding on my part.  So you leave it all connected and run the rope rode down the hawsepipe into the chain locker and drop the chain in on top of it?  ALAN said his was permanently attached, too, but I didn’t stop to think exactly what that meant.


Seems like the rode wouldn’t go in very efficiently and would fill the bottom of the chain locker. When the chain went in it wouldn’t have the divider there to encourage the chain to flake.  Sounds like a mess in the making.

I had envisioned letting all but about 5m of chain out, snubbing the chain, pulling the chain up out of the locker and attaching the rode to the end.  Reversing that on retrieval.

Either way sounds like a potential problem in the making.

I guess it will all come to be easier than it sounds, but I’ve gotta say, it makes me anxious.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 6:01 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Kent,

You can't use a thimble and shackle, they wont fit out of the hawse pipe. You have to do a splice onto a thimble anyway so splicing to the chain is no big deal.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Parl

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.


  I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.  


Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl