Date   

Oil Dipstick

Eric Freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

John Clark
 

I second the recommendation for Bill Rouse.  
    John
SV Annie SM37
Le Marin

On Wed, Aug 15, 2018, 9:10 PM pstas2003 <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Michael,

I would highly recommend that you contact Bill Rouse,

He is a former Amel owner and major contributer on this forum.  He has a vast amount of knowledge and now runs and Amel School.  He will travel to your location.  You can contact him via his website.  www.amelschool.com

Good luck with your generator install.  We just recently completed the same project but we opted to go with the OEM Onan.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Cruising New England

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Porter,

Like everyone I feel for you. Some thoughts. Unless something like salt water ingress  happens and oil and filters are changed regularly diesel engines, mechanically are good for very high hours, 4000 ordinary, 8000, not unusual. You had all the mechanical parts renewed with the long block. I guess not all the wiring looms (which are considerable) nor the operational computer systems. That's where I would be looking. Teun Bass in Noumea has a similar story to tell and he may have something to offer.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 16 August 2018 at 01:50 "Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter, I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine. It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs… does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

pstas2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Michael,

I would highly recommend that you contact Bill Rouse,

He is a former Amel owner and major contributer on this forum.  He has a vast amount of knowledge and now runs and Amel School.  He will travel to your location.  You can contact him via his website.  www.amelschool.com

Good luck with your generator install.  We just recently completed the same project but we opted to go with the OEM Onan.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Cruising New England

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Dean Gillies
 

Porter,
I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine.
It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs... does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154

Sent from my iPhone X


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Porter,

I can’t see anything wrong in what you do or have done.

Thanks for sharing your experience, as we need to build up the knowledge on those D3 engine of ours. 

One thing we’ve learned in our short but eventful experience of our engine is that they are quite different beasts than more classic boat engines and a lot of the great advice available needs to be carefully analysed for adequacy. 

By the way, what engine type do you have? The Volvo guy in Martinique told us the D3-110i-C (ours on A54-122) was no longer available. He said the newer type were harder to work on because of the access to various components.

One thing I noted: he recommended leaving a bit of headroom on the dipstick when filling up the oil (and dipstick firmly pushed in to take the measurement). 

Hope things will improve for you very soon


Best,

Thomas
away from
GARULFO
A54-122
Curacao 



On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 at 04:41, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
My dear Amelians,

I ask your insight into my motor issue if you’d please lend me your minds for a few minutes. 
I condense a much longer story into the following:

We own a fantastic Amel 54-152 “IBIS”  Purchased back in April 2017, Maritinique.  Some of you might remember a video i posted of a “smoking engine”and my pre-purchase concerns back then.  Lots of great suggestions from dirty prop to others.  Our former owner, the most gracious of sailors, sought the help of Volvo Martinique: (who had given his engine a clean bill of health a month prior) to look into it.  Ultimately they found pitting in the cylinder linings and high pressure on the crank case side, oil in the breather etc.  He>$$>>I put in a new long block, injectors etc. 1100hrs at the time. Nearly a new complete engine.  16000 Euro.

I picked up the boat with the freshly painted engine and sailed back to Florida in April  (engine oddly still smoking in just the same way!) and when I say smoking: a now smaller puff of black smoke for a half second when I rapidly increase throttle.  The Guadeloupe volvo tech confiding in me that half of all the D3-110s do such a thing and not to worry (Nigel Calder disagreeing all the way).  Some time later…September the motor stopped working.  Just stopped.  motoring along… no issues and then would loose power, sputter to a stop.  Rather frustrating when sailing against Irma back to Florida!!  Much head scratching lead to a diagnosis of clogged injectors.  1400hrs. Got new injectors, problem fixed.  

On we sailed (motored in February 2018 out to the 65 and then sailed down for many months in the carribean.  All ok.  May of this year after sailing to Cartagena-motoring to Colon panama fired up the engine to find a system fault.  filters cleaned, oil good, temps fine.  Turbo spinning all great.  Went through Canal.  8 weeks of waiting and “working” with CDM Commercial Motores of Panama finally revealed oil on the most pressure sensor: (CDM took to 6 weeks to get a new one put in, despite my protest as to find out why there is so much oil on the BPS to kill it) They then sent us on our way with a new BPS, “problem fixed.”  Trusting them no more than Mr. Bean to fix my engine we did a test sail/motor to Las Perlas: not surprisingly sensor failed again.  Back to mainland, finally with CDM tearing onto the aftercooler etc found oil in there, normal turbo, breather hose full and sputtering oil at the dipstick while running.  

I finally re-called Volvo Americas.  Carlos Corgo, a very encouraging young man actually came to the boat at Vist Mar in Panama and chatted with me.  We discussed long block #3 i.e. another LB replacement vs whole new engine.  His higher ups only approved the long lock replacement under warranty. We’re now at 1800hrs.

He said D3-110s are prone to this problem when paired to a boat too big for the engine.  I know we 54s are slightly over propped.  He noted this D3 should WOT at 3200rpm: i would WOT around 2700-2800.

Now please let me confide in you I knew very little about diesels when we bought this boat, and its been a steep learning curve and thanks to Nigel Calder whose course i took, to Bill Rouse and his endless patience with me, and this forum.  


I have changed the racors about every 200hrs. They never look that bad. I’ve never had the needle budge on the pressure indicator.   I’ve changed as well as the metal volvo micro filters about the same.   I polished the tank and fuel not long after we got the boat back.  I am on the nose with oil and filter and impeller changes.  Perhaps I’ve gone 300 hrs on the air filter, which always looks good.

When changing, I usually fill the oil right up to the last notch on the dipstick.

While running the engine, i typically run in the 1300-1800 range.  At the end of a trip i goto 24-2700 for about five minutes then let engine idle for 5-10 minutes before shutting down.  The autoprop is spotless and flexible. 


What might I have done to contribute to this?
What should i do differently so it doesn’t occur somewhere in the South Pacific?

As always your great advice and insights are very appreciated.




Yours,

Porter McRoberts
Amel 54-152 S/V IBIS
Vista Mar, Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

michael winand
 

Thanks Joel. Appreciate your advice 
I do have confidence in the guy who is doing the installation. 
He is aware of the electrical system on the Amel. 
I am interested in also repowering the tmd22.  If you have any suggestions  I would appreciate your input. 
He has fitted a beta  engine to an amel. He rewired the whole engine harness with all new sensors to allow the ground return. I have been advised from a older amel owner that this guy is the most knowledgeable mechanical /electrical  that he had ever come across in 15 years of ownership. 


I would like to have someone very knowledgeable  with Amel. School me in the systems. I am in Australia if you have any recommendations? 
Sincerely Michael  251 


On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 at 11:51, Joel Potter jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Gently, and with all due respect, I would like to suggest to you that it would be a good idea to have someone very knowledgeable with Amel boats and their unique systems, in their entirety, spend some time with you on your boat. Part of the excellence of Amel boats is in the unconventional way Amel does several things that produce more satisfactory overall results than conventional practice.


Bill Rouse, when he asked you if you would install an isolated ground system generator, was talking about the big picture regarding the Amel 12 and 24 volt DC electrical system. Isolated ground, also described as full earth return and an isolated negative electrical system is when all of the DC energy comes out of the battery, to the device it powers, and then directly back to the battery bank via a closed loop system. This is precisely the same system used on most metal boats world wide. It prevents a  whole bunch of electrical and galvanic problems and makes this DC system better for all the elements of the entire system.

If you install a 240 volt AC genset with a 12 volt DC conventional ground system for starting and the alternator for starting battery recharging, you will have electrical and galvanic trouble until this situation is changed. The sad fact is  a majority of marine electrical contractors and/or installers think this not “a big deal” and pay little heed to the difference between conventional ground and isolated negative ground as it pertains to the DC electrical system..

If you dig deep into the incredible wealth of information that has been presented in this group, you will find many admonishments not to change anything on your Amel until you are absolutely familiar with what you intend to change.

Don’t be hesitant to ask for help if you are not 101% sure that the changes you entertain will produce positive results. 

Good luck with your new to you Amel and be sure to have fun with it. 

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 14, 2018, at 7:05 PM, michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The new genset is the same as the Onan regarding the isolation mounting and the electrical connection. It has a alternator instead of the generator for charging the 12v battery. Control panel where the Onan remote  start was, giving temperature, oil pressure, amps output /load Ect. 

 The retired Onan with 1000hrs was nonfunctional, so we knew that before purchasing. Removed the head due to lack of compression in 2 cylinders.  Found rust in cylinder  and a slight chance of color in the fuel pump housing. I thought it was not a good idea to rebuild the engine. 
We are just trying to get the best install of the new one. 
Thanks for your help 
Michael 251 



On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 at 0:42, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
 

Are you installing an isolated ground generator?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 11:22 PM michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.

The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

My dear Amelians,

I ask your insight into my motor issue if you’d please lend me your minds for a few minutes. 
I condense a much longer story into the following:

We own a fantastic Amel 54-152 “IBIS”  Purchased back in April 2017, Maritinique.  Some of you might remember a video i posted of a “smoking engine”and my pre-purchase concerns back then.  Lots of great suggestions from dirty prop to others.  Our former owner, the most gracious of sailors, sought the help of Volvo Martinique: (who had given his engine a clean bill of health a month prior) to look into it.  Ultimately they found pitting in the cylinder linings and high pressure on the crank case side, oil in the breather etc.  He>$$>>I put in a new long block, injectors etc. 1100hrs at the time. Nearly a new complete engine.  16000 Euro.

I picked up the boat with the freshly painted engine and sailed back to Florida in April  (engine oddly still smoking in just the same way!) and when I say smoking: a now smaller puff of black smoke for a half second when I rapidly increase throttle.  The Guadeloupe volvo tech confiding in me that half of all the D3-110s do such a thing and not to worry (Nigel Calder disagreeing all the way).  Some time later…September the motor stopped working.  Just stopped.  motoring along… no issues and then would loose power, sputter to a stop.  Rather frustrating when sailing against Irma back to Florida!!  Much head scratching lead to a diagnosis of clogged injectors.  1400hrs. Got new injectors, problem fixed.  

On we sailed (motored in February 2018 out to the 65 and then sailed down for many months in the carribean.  All ok.  May of this year after sailing to Cartagena-motoring to Colon panama fired up the engine to find a system fault.  filters cleaned, oil good, temps fine.  Turbo spinning all great.  Went through Canal.  8 weeks of waiting and “working” with CDM Commercial Motores of Panama finally revealed oil on the most pressure sensor: (CDM took to 6 weeks to get a new one put in, despite my protest as to find out why there is so much oil on the BPS to kill it) They then sent us on our way with a new BPS, “problem fixed.”  Trusting them no more than Mr. Bean to fix my engine we did a test sail/motor to Las Perlas: not surprisingly sensor failed again.  Back to mainland, finally with CDM tearing onto the aftercooler etc found oil in there, normal turbo, breather hose full and sputtering oil at the dipstick while running.  

I finally re-called Volvo Americas.  Carlos Corgo, a very encouraging young man actually came to the boat at Vist Mar in Panama and chatted with me.  We discussed long block #3 i.e. another LB replacement vs whole new engine.  His higher ups only approved the long lock replacement under warranty. We’re now at 1800hrs.

He said D3-110s are prone to this problem when paired to a boat too big for the engine.  I know we 54s are slightly over propped.  He noted this D3 should WOT at 3200rpm: i would WOT around 2700-2800.

Now please let me confide in you I knew very little about diesels when we bought this boat, and its been a steep learning curve and thanks to Nigel Calder whose course i took, to Bill Rouse and his endless patience with me, and this forum.  


I have changed the racors about every 200hrs. They never look that bad. I’ve never had the needle budge on the pressure indicator.   I’ve changed as well as the metal volvo micro filters about the same.   I polished the tank and fuel not long after we got the boat back.  I am on the nose with oil and filter and impeller changes.  Perhaps I’ve gone 300 hrs on the air filter, which always looks good.

When changing, I usually fill the oil right up to the last notch on the dipstick.

While running the engine, i typically run in the 1300-1800 range.  At the end of a trip i goto 24-2700 for about five minutes then let engine idle for 5-10 minutes before shutting down.  The autoprop is spotless and flexible. 


What might I have done to contribute to this?
What should i do differently so it doesn’t occur somewhere in the South Pacific?

As always your great advice and insights are very appreciated.




Yours,

Porter McRoberts
Amel 54-152 S/V IBIS
Vista Mar, Panama



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

amelforme
 

Gently, and with all due respect, I would like to suggest to you that it would be a good idea to have someone very knowledgeable with Amel boats and their unique systems, in their entirety, spend some time with you on your boat. Part of the excellence of Amel boats is in the unconventional way Amel does several things that produce more satisfactory overall results than conventional practice.

Bill Rouse, when he asked you if you would install an isolated ground system generator, was talking about the big picture regarding the Amel 12 and 24 volt DC electrical system. Isolated ground, also described as full earth return and an isolated negative electrical system is when all of the DC energy comes out of the battery, to the device it powers, and then directly back to the battery bank via a closed loop system. This is precisely the same system used on most metal boats world wide. It prevents a  whole bunch of electrical and galvanic problems and makes this DC system better for all the elements of the entire system.

If you install a 240 volt AC genset with a 12 volt DC conventional ground system for starting and the alternator for starting battery recharging, you will have electrical and galvanic trouble until this situation is changed. The sad fact is  a majority of marine electrical contractors and/or installers think this not “a big deal” and pay little heed to the difference between conventional ground and isolated negative ground as it pertains to the DC electrical system.

If you dig deep into the incredible wealth of information that has been presented in this group, you will find many admonishments not to change anything on your Amel until you are absolutely familiar with what you intend to change.

Don’t be hesitant to ask for help if you are not 101% sure that the changes you entertain will produce positive results. 

Good luck with your new to you Amel and be sure to have fun with it. 

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Aug 14, 2018, at 7:05 PM, michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The new genset is the same as the Onan regarding the isolation mounting and the electrical connection. It has a alternator instead of the generator for charging the 12v battery. Control panel where the Onan remote  start was, giving temperature, oil pressure, amps output /load Ect. 

 The retired Onan with 1000hrs was nonfunctional, so we knew that before purchasing. Removed the head due to lack of compression in 2 cylinders.  Found rust in cylinder  and a slight chance of color in the fuel pump housing. I thought it was not a good idea to rebuild the engine. 
We are just trying to get the best install of the new one. 
Thanks for your help 
Michael 251 



On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 at 0:42, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
 

Are you installing an isolated ground generator?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 11:22 PM michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.

The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

michael winand
 

The new genset is the same as the Onan regarding the isolation mounting and the electrical connection. It has a alternator instead of the generator for charging the 12v battery. Control panel where the Onan remote  start was, giving temperature, oil pressure, amps output /load Ect. 
 The retired Onan with 1000hrs was nonfunctional, so we knew that before purchasing. Removed the head due to lack of compression in 2 cylinders.  Found rust in cylinder  and a slight chance of color in the fuel pump housing. I thought it was not a good idea to rebuild the engine. 
We are just trying to get the best install of the new one. 
Thanks for your help 

On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 at 0:42, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Are you installing an isolated ground generator?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 11:22 PM michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.

The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] testing.

 

seems to be working

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 5:09 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Cheers

On 14 August 2018 at 18:05 "John Hayes johnhayes862@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Got as far as Wellington Danny


Best

John Hayes
Nga Waka 

On 14/08/2018, at 4:17 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Two of my recent posts have failed to be delivered. This is a test post

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


 

 


 


 


Amel 1985 Maramu for sale

bob.sarff@...
 

I hope I'm not offending fellow Amel owners by this post.   I know that there are perspective owners who follow this site and wanted them to know that my wife and I are preparing to put our 1985 Maramu on the market and want to give them the first opportunity to own this fine but older yacht.  We've lived on Chara for 10 years and cruised the South Pacific, currently in Fiji.  If anyone is interested and would like additional information please contact me at bob.sarff@...


Respectfully, 

Bob Sarff

S\V Chara


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

I'm not a fan of anything that creates difficulty. I agree (and said in my first post on the topic) that a proper sized primary anchor is needed. However world cruisers can meet extreme circumstances and then the question is what more can I do on those rare occasions we desperately need something more. Then it comes down to either two anchors set at an angle to each other or tandem anchors. The issues with the two anchor system are legion. So the tandem system is in my opinion he one to have set up ready. In all my miles and countless anchoring I've used it only twice. However I think it foolhardy not to have a system ready. We all carry life rafts don't we. 

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 14 August 2018 at 09:09 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Only one topic(*) generates more forceful arguments between sailors than anchoring.  All real cruising sailors have strong opinions about what works. So I comment with humility...

I am not a fan of tandem anchors.  To my thinking it is an idea far better in theory than in practice.  But...if I needed to for some reason, I would follow the advice in this article of Peter Smith's (designer of the Rocna anchor):  https://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/tandem-anchoring.php

The key takeaway for me is this quote:  "Most boaters should never have cause for tandem anchoring. Your primary anchor should be sized so that it is adequate on its own in practically all conditions – if it is not, then upgrade."

If you are lifting your anchor with an electric windlass, there seems little reason to have less than the biggest anchor you would ever use as your primary anchor on the bow. While this is not a place I like to carry extra weight, the difference between a "normal" and a "serious cruising" anchor is certainly not more than 40 or 50 pounds.

The single biggest problem with the tandem system is that I am most worried about my anchor's security during dramatic wind shifts.  This is exactly the time that the extra hardware on the bottom can be more problem-causing than problem-solving.

(*) The one more contentious topic:  "Mono or cat?"

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

 


 


 


Re: Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Miles
 

Hi David,

 

For freeing the anchor, I have a short strong line with a loop at one end and a chain hook at the other.  When the chain is almost up and down and I feel resistance, I attach the chain hook, put the loop over the cleat, and signal the person at the helm to go into reverse.  When the anchor is free, I use the windlass again.  This saves the hassle of replacing bent keys in the windless. 

 

Regards,

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug, sm216, at anchor, Boothbay Harbor, Maine


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Generator exhaust

 

Are you installing an isolated ground generator?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 11:22 PM michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, I am installing a new genset into a super maramu 2000.

The engine is a kubota with a 50mm hose going to the vetas water lock. On the outlet of the water lock the hose reduces to 40mm. This is how the original is installed. It has a reducer 50 to 40mm glued  into the water lock.

Can anyone help with the reasons why the hose is reduced in diameter? 
The generator supplier  advised to have a 50mm hose going on the water lock outlet. 
Thanks 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Nick Newington
 

I have used a tandem anchor arrangement  two times in 30 years of ocean voyaging. Both times when I had to leave the boat at anchor for a month. Once at the Dar Es Salam  yacht club in Tanzania and the other time up the Guadiana river.
These were safe anchorages but seeing as the boats were left unattended I was happy with the extra work.
I would be reluctant to use the tandem setup in a less than secure anchorage as if I had to leave in  adverse circumstances it could all get a bit tricky not to mention having all my eggs in one basket. Potentially loosing two anchors.

My view is that it would be better to have an oversized anchor, Spade or Rocna type well set, one chain ready to leave in the dead of night.

Nick


On 14 Aug 2018, at 08:36, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I'm with you Bill.

i posted the link to Rocna Pete's article a few days ago.
I an not a fan of anything that makes things complicated, especially when it comes to anchoring.
In the real world it's almost impossible to know whether tandem anchors would work any better than one good sized anchor with plenty of chain. There are just too many variables.
To compare, you'd have to have the same boats in the same place, same conditions, same anchors...and even then we all know that all anchoring spots are not the same.
How many times have we dropped the pick in one spot, pulled back on it ...no good, pick it up again and move a little to the side...perfect?
Its a debate that will continue for sure, but I much prefer one anchor, one set of issues to deal with.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu
PS what I described above about anchors not setting ? This happened to us today...dragged quite bit, picked it up, moved 20 m to the W and its stuck...1800rpm in reverse...didn't budge.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent. I think Alan may have answered this. I have at times had my chain string zig zag through s bunch of them. Careful driving forward feeling your way rolling up the chain as you go and if you are lucky. It will come off. You are usually in super vis so you can see. I have had the chain snag impossibly at 80 feet and had to dive to free it. Also had it jammed much shallower and dive again. But don't get too stewed up about them. Given the times we anchor serious difficulty is a low %. The most dangerous is if it catches and snubs up short and a sea gets up. Needs prompt attention to pay out more chain before damage is done. Dont be too worried. You learn to be careful checking before you anchor.  Just another fun thing about cruising. Stories to tell at sun downers.

Cheers

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 14 August 2018 at 02:30 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I’ve been reading about “bommies” Danny, it must be a royal pain if you get wrapped around one.  Can you generally see how it’s wrapped to aid in getting it free...or is it just a matter of trial and error?

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 13, 2018, at 12:13 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS < simms@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: 13 August 2018 at 10:08
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Hi again Kent, just be sure the amount of rope you pay out is say no more than 2/3 of the water depth so when there is no wind and the anchor chain is hanging straight down the rope is well clear of the bottom. You also have to be ware of coral heads or bommies. They come straight up from the bottom and to get rope wrapped around one of those would be fatal. If there are bommies present the rope you pay out must be shorter than the depth of the nearest bommie. In some atolls the coral sand is very soft and very bad holding, In that situation you are likely to be in relatively shallow water. That is where you would need your two anchor system

Regards

Danny

On 13 August 2018 at 09:38 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Danny, great advice!  I like attaching the line to both anchors.


  I assume that with 300 ft of chain, the rope rode will be well above the bottom.  I’m calculating that in 40 meters, I’ll want a total of 42 x 3 = 126 meters or 440 ft...and that’s just 3:1 scope.  That’s a whole new universe for me!

Any reason not to connect the chain to the rode with an eye splice on a thimble and a shackle?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Aug 12, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Kent,

I agree with Bill Rouse. In deep water your ratio can be less. One VERY important thing with chain and rode is when anchoring in coral areas your rope portion must be well clear of the bottom otherwise it will be cut by the coral. Connecting the rope to the chain is a simple splice technique. You have to share the strands through two links. They wont all fit through one. To give security make at least six tucks in the splice.. So my rode is permanently attached. Dual anchor systems. I agree with Rocna, your primary anchor should be sized to be adequate and your 40 kg is that.

However if you want two anchors down the best method is tandem. Attach 10 m of chain to the hole in the leading edge of your primary anchor and add the second anchor to that. Then take 13 metes of floating line and attach one end to each anchor. This is to facilitate retrieval. When the primary anchor is back in the roller this rope is used to pull the other in. Its floating line so it wont tangle in the chain when deployed. This tandem system is vastly superior to deploying two anchors separately. The tandem are always in line and both are always fully holding.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2018 at 08:49 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Wow, guess I’ve got to devise a good way to add rode to my 300 ft of chain.  Is 250 ft of 1 inch rode on 300 ft of chain enough? That’s less than 6:1.  There was some discussion a while back, but still not comfortable with the transition from chain to rope.  I guess hooking with the snubber line, disconnecting the chain from the locker, pulling it up on deck and shackling it to the rope is about all one can do.  Sounds like a hassle.  


Is the bottom in most places amenable to a ROCNA anchor?
I have a big Fortress and a Mantus as spare anchors, but have never used them.

Does anyone have a good way to mount a spare anchor on the rail?

Have you (or anyone else) used two anchors in tandem?  The ROCNA has a place to shackle a chain to the neck, but it would be difficult to get to, and even harder to retrieve. I guess a line with a float attached to the second anchor could be retrieved with a boat hook and hauled aboard with a halyard.  My back is already complaining about hauling it aboard by hand.

Any and all advice, experiences that taught you something, hints, etc greatly appreciated!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Hi Kent,

the question was not to me but I have fond memories of time there (Raiatea). I spent a lot of time anchored in 27 meters (90 ft).

Kind Rgards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl


 

 

 


 


 

 

 

 


 


 


 

 

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: testing.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Alan 

On 14 August 2018 at 19:37 "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Danny,


i had that issue a few days ago...the posts did eventually turn up.
Got this one loud and clear in Vanuatu !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

 


 


 


Re: testing.

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Danny,

i had that issue a few days ago...the posts did eventually turn up.
Got this one loud and clear in Vanuatu !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchoring in deep water in the S Pacific.

Alan Leslie
 

I'm with you Bill.
i posted the link to Rocna Pete's article a few days ago.
I an not a fan of anything that makes things complicated, especially when it comes to anchoring.
In the real world it's almost impossible to know whether tandem anchors would work any better than one good sized anchor with plenty of chain. There are just too many variables.
To compare, you'd have to have the same boats in the same place, same conditions, same anchors...and even then we all know that all anchoring spots are not the same.
How many times have we dropped the pick in one spot, pulled back on it ...no good, pick it up again and move a little to the side...perfect?
Its a debate that will continue for sure, but I much prefer one anchor, one set of issues to deal with.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Port Havannah, Vanuatu
PS what I described above about anchors not setting ? This happened to us today...dragged quite bit, picked it up, moved 20 m to the W and its stuck...1800rpm in reverse...didn't budge.

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